Making and fitting DG Couplings in N gauge
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Have you ever considered British N gauge but been put off by the chunky rapido type couplings? I had... these DG couplings feature in another video on my channel, but in this episode I show how relatively straight forward they are to assemble and fit.
DG couplings are available through www.wizardmode...
(I have bought and paid for all stock, tools and parts in this video).
Read more on my blog: paxton-road.blo...
How does the fitting differ on bogie vehicles?
Because I don’t operate unrealistic curves, I just fit them to the headstocks, rather than the bogies so I’m afraid I can’t comment beyond that.
@@JamesHiltonCustomModelRailways thanks. I hope all N gauge curves sharper than 4.25 are check-railed as in reality.
I've heard there's a technique to build the loop from a single length of wire without soldering
You don't solder the loop - it is made by wrapping the phosphor bronze wire around the 'template' bar and cutting and then forming them in pliers. The solder is required for the magnetic dropper - this is steel wire.
@@JamesHiltonCustomModelRailways thanks! just dipping my toe into 2mm finescale... seems if you get ten 2mm modellers into a room they will recommend about fifteen incompatible coupling systems between them, but DGs look pretty tried and tested and I don't mind the appearance!
Interesting, and very informative. It's nice to see how other people transfer the instructions into practical work. Especialy about snipping the tounge down. I've fitted these to NN3 locos and carriages a few years ago and just recently started on my N gauge stock. I use Xuron 9180 snips which are for etched brass and they are unbelievable.
Thanks for the tip, I’ll look into the snips.
Your videos finally gave me the impetus to get some of these built and fitted and I'm so glad I did - they worked a charm. When you talk about tweaking them - what typically are you referring to? I've got a couple of examples of the loops contacting each other and lifting each other up, but not sure what the solution is!
I’m so glad this has encouraged you to take the plunge - once working they’re a transformation, but tweaking, yes good question.
Two things to look at - angle of the buffing plate and hook, and relative heights.
I polish the buffer face and hook to make sure they are smooth for loops to rub against. The buffer plate must be vertical, and the hook angled sufficiently for the loop to easily slide up. This is by eye, with fine tweezers.
Relative height, I aim to mount on the bottom edge of a typical buffer beam. If required small tweaks to height can be made by holding a tweezer against where you’ve glued it to the model, and using a finger to gently move the buffer face up or down, just then tweak the angle of the buffer face afterwards. For example, on the 08 and 26 these are quite noticeably bent downwards.
You make it look easy! Which solder paste to you use?
I don’t use solder paste, I use Powerflux flux and Carrs 180 degree solder.
@@JamesHiltonCustomModelRailways Oh tks I didn't see in the video where you got the solder on the dropper, Presumably you tin the dropper first then reflow it on to the loop with the flux
No, just have the solder on the iron. However, what you suggest would also work.
Nice James. I've always gone the spratt & winkle route as I could envision the 2 coupling loops on each wagon hitting eachother, have you found this? Some only put a loop on one end, but that doesn't work if you have a turntable and want to turn stock.
I’ve not enough experience of problems yet, these are very neat and small, I didn’t like the complexity of setup of some of the alternatives.
I find that if I adjust each wagon in turn the loops don’t clash, but during setup it can be an issue. So far I’ve got about a 95% success rate in terms of coupling and uncoupling. As good as my experience with Kadee in larger scales and certainly easier than the 3 link I use in OO.