Thanks. This was super helpful. I also find that cussing helps. I appreciate any project in which "Beat on it with a hammer" is actually productive. :)
Great job. The only thing I would do different is prime and paint New boards before nailing or screwing them in, especially the ends. Great video though, sure takes a lot of patience! 😉😊
Thanks wicked welding. I did not want to remove the roof and this is the best way I could come up with. Once this project was finished and painted it looked marvelous. Good luck.
I have the original soffit installed and while replacing the garage back door and rebuilding the rough opening I can see the tack strip for the soffit is all termite eaten. I'll probably be doing some sistering of rafter tails as well before I can replace my soffit and fascia.
How much rafter was left beneath the top plate after removing the tail? It looks like only a quarter inch. I’m looking at buying a house and noticed today many of the tails are rotten badly. Worried the whole rafter is damaged too far up.
Hi there. In my case the only damaged part was out by the end of the rafter. The part I left on the top plate was solid. Outside of climbing in the attic and crawling out to the sides of the house you really won’t know the damage until you remove the blocking. I did a few of them and they were in good shape except for the tails. Good luck.
Thanks for showing us how to it, and the many practical tips you shared. Did you pre-drill those Torx cabinet head screws into the new 2 x 6 rafter tail before you put it in place, so as to leave enough room to get the Ryobi driver in there and do the job one-handed, so you weren't fumbling around trying to use your other hand to find and hold each screw until it had bit into the wood and was on its way to the sister rafter? This video was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks again for making it.
Hi there. Happy to help. I did not secure the the roof wood because I didn’t want to disturb the shingles, but Liquid nail is an excellent idea. A couple dabs at final assembly would work great. Good luck. .
This is exactly what I need to do on my damaged rafter tails...thanks. When toe-nailing the new blocking, it's not clear in the video where exactly that is done. Are the screws going between the new blocking and the new/existing rafter tails? The toe nailed screw heads are not visible in the video so are the screws nailed from inside the attic so that they are not seen from the outside?
Hello, I'm glad the video helped. The toenailing was pretty easy. one side of the blocking can be done screwing through the rafter into the blocking. The other side can be done from the blocking into the rafter. the nice thing about the torx is you can burry those screws. Don't get too close to the edge or you will split the wood. I'm sure if you mess with it a bit you will be able to figure it out. it's just wood, of course it's not cheap anymore :o) Oh, and the comment from farnorthhomested using liquid nail is a solid idea. A couple dabs before you complete the final install should work great. Good luck
Great video! I did have a question though, after you’ve installed the new tail I’m assuming the distance between new tails and existing ones is going to be shorter vs two old tails?
Hi there. I’m glad you liked the video. You are correct. The distance between the rafter tails will change. One will be greater by 1.5 inches and one will be closer by 1.5 inches. That is why you need to replace both blocking. Thanks again for checking it out.
The only thing i use Phillips screws for is drywall. Because I’m afraid to use a torx screw. It wouldn’t take much for them to blow right through the drywall. Hahaha.
Hello. For this job I used about 8 feet of a 2 X 6 for each rafter I cut the end of off. so with the price of wood that's about 800 dollars.. hahahaha. I bought a jug of the torx bits and they lasted the entire project (9 rafters) I think they were about 30 bucks. For each rafter I replaced the blocking on both sides. Doing it yourself saves a ton of money, you're in it for just the material. And like everything else, once you do one the rest move along quickly. Good luck
Did you have to tent the house? We had one minor damage rafter tail, no sign of living termites or wings in this area, and no sign inside the house, except upstairs attic. Not sure if I like to open up ceiling on the other side and check for termites. We treated this rafter tail 2 years back but now want to make sure there is more infestation. My damage is in this video if you can commend. th-cam.com/video/9SNyPzH7yeU/w-d-xo.html
Hi there, Yes the house was tented after all the wood work was finished. I watched your video. My recommendation is, for your piece of mind, have the house inspected by the termite guy. If you have termite damage or termites repair the effected areas, and then have your house tented. 'Good Luck'
Thanks for the instruction. The blood make this project authentic.
Great video. I'm deep into this project. One thing you dont mention is how to secire the new rafter tails to the roof.
Hi there. Liquid nail. Good luck.
Thanks. This was super helpful. I also find that cussing helps.
I appreciate any project in which "Beat on it with a hammer" is actually productive. :)
I’m glad it was helpful.
Great job. The only thing I would do different is prime and paint New boards before nailing or screwing them in, especially the ends. Great video though, sure takes a lot of patience! 😉😊
Thank you I been wanting to see a video like this had a idea wanted clarity
Thanks wicked welding. I did not want to remove the roof and this is the best way I could come up with. Once this project was finished and painted it looked marvelous.
Good luck.
Omg I've been looking at videos for 3 hours and I'm like duh🤷🏽♀️ thanks sometimes we over think things.. Thanks great video
Good luck with yours
Thank you for the video. Very helpful and informative.
Thanks for the roundoff been struggling.
Great job!! I need to tackle this next week & now I know what to do. Thank you!!
Hopefully your job went well.
Those new rafter tails are da bomb!
Great video
I have the original soffit installed and while replacing the garage back door and rebuilding the rough opening I can see the tack strip for the soffit is all termite eaten. I'll probably be doing some sistering of rafter tails as well before I can replace my soffit and fascia.
How much rafter was left beneath the top plate after removing the tail? It looks like only a quarter inch. I’m looking at buying a house and noticed today many of the tails are rotten badly. Worried the whole rafter is damaged too far up.
Hi there.
In my case the only damaged part was out by the end of the rafter. The part I left on the top plate was solid.
Outside of climbing in the attic and
crawling out to the sides of the house you really won’t know the damage until you remove the blocking. I did a few of
them and they were in good shape except for the tails.
Good luck.
Thanks for showing us how to it, and the many practical tips you shared. Did you pre-drill those Torx cabinet head screws into the new 2 x 6 rafter tail before you put it in place, so as to leave enough room to get the Ryobi driver in there and do the job one-handed, so you weren't fumbling around trying to use your other hand to find and hold each screw until it had bit into the wood and was on its way to the sister rafter?
This video was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks again for making it.
No, you do not need to pre-drill. Those screws are awesome. They make the job easy. Good Luck..
So now the repaired rafter tails are off by 1 1/2" compared to the originals? Doesn't it look off when you're looking underneath
Awesome. Thank you.
thanks for this video! best one on you tube! did you secure the tail to the roof wood? i was thinking maybe liquid nails to do that.
Hi there.
Happy to help. I did not secure the the roof wood because I didn’t want to disturb the shingles, but Liquid nail is an excellent idea. A couple dabs at final assembly would work great.
Good luck. .
This is exactly what I need to do on my damaged rafter tails...thanks. When toe-nailing the new blocking, it's not clear in the video where exactly that is done. Are the screws going between the new blocking and the new/existing rafter tails? The toe nailed screw heads are not visible in the video so are the screws nailed from inside the attic so that they are not seen from the outside?
Hello, I'm glad the video helped. The toenailing was pretty easy. one side of the blocking can be done screwing through the rafter into the blocking. The other side can be done from the blocking into the rafter. the nice thing about the torx is you can burry those screws. Don't get too close to the edge or you will split the wood. I'm sure if you mess with it a bit you will be able to figure it out. it's just wood, of course it's not cheap anymore :o) Oh, and the comment from farnorthhomested using liquid nail is a solid idea. A couple dabs before you complete the final install should work great.
Good luck
I always use star head screws. Phillips strip out and you're stuck with a screw you have to grind off.
Great video! I did have a question though, after you’ve installed the new tail I’m assuming the distance between new tails and existing ones is going to be shorter vs two old tails?
Hi there. I’m glad you liked the video. You are correct. The distance between the rafter tails will change. One will be greater by 1.5 inches and one will be closer by 1.5 inches. That is why you need to replace both blocking. Thanks again for checking it out.
@Mike Kennedy
Is there a reason you did not use adhesive?
nice work
Thank you!!
Phillips will strip out. I always use star head screws for studs.
The only thing i use Phillips screws for is drywall. Because I’m afraid to use a torx screw. It wouldn’t take much for them to blow right through the drywall. Hahaha.
How do you fasten the shiplap back to the rafter? Liquid nails?
One of the commenters used liquid nail. A little Dab in a couple of spots should work great. Good luck
Hello, how much did this rafter tail replacement cost?
Hello. For this job I used about 8 feet of a 2 X 6 for each rafter I cut the end of off. so with the price of wood that's about 800 dollars.. hahahaha. I bought a jug of the torx bits and they lasted the entire project (9 rafters) I think they were about 30 bucks. For each rafter I replaced the blocking on both sides.
Doing it yourself saves a ton of money, you're in it for just the material. And like everything else, once you do one the rest move along quickly. Good luck
When you say a foot and a half, do you mean 18” or 12-1/2”?
18 inches. Thanks for watching
I just bought some today
You won’t be disappointed.
@@mikekennedy1383 thanks
Did you have to tent the house? We had one minor damage rafter tail, no sign of living termites or wings in this area, and no sign inside the house, except upstairs attic. Not sure if I like to open up ceiling on the other side and check for termites.
We treated this rafter tail 2 years back but now want to make sure there is more infestation. My damage is in this video if you can commend. th-cam.com/video/9SNyPzH7yeU/w-d-xo.html
Hi there, Yes the house was tented after all the wood work was finished. I watched your video. My recommendation is, for your piece of mind, have the house inspected by the termite guy. If you have termite damage or termites repair the effected areas, and then have your house tented.
'Good Luck'