Just found your channel, I'm hooked on your content! I have DB36 on my car and a big fan. Try their glass coating, it absorbs nearly 100% with nearly zero to wipe off. Also ordered 2 shirts. Love my OG shirts, and looking forward to trying out IG shirts !!
Nice video and great explanations Jeff. My install experience was a little different as I did it during an October cold snap with my 80k heater going. I ended up heating up the garage and then turned it off because I didn't want the hot air blowing directly on the vehicle while I was applying. Because of that, the humidity was increasing as I was working. Flash time when i started was between 13 and 15 minutes, but by the end it was down to about 8 minutes. So you definitely need to watch it when the humidity goes up. I would say for an experienced installer with a well controlled climate on an average size car, they could just about get around an entire vehicle before wiping off. I had the same experience in that there was practically nothing left to level. Just a light haze that came off super easy. I did give it the full 3-4 week wait before washing, especially since the weather then was so cold and snowy. Since then though I definitely have not babied the coating at all. I don't get to wash it nearly as much as i would like to, but it just keeps performing with only a strong pre-wash (when needed) and rinseless contact wash. I do not use toppers of any sort, and it cleans up very well even after the worst that Minnesota can throw at it (bugs, gravel roads, heat, cold, winter grime and tons of road salt).
I appreciate this video. I have had the same kit for about 4 months now but have been sceptical of applying it due to curing time before it allows your first wash (3 weeks if I remember correctly). Would be nice to get some updates on performance etc
Using crosshatch pattern actually does help with ensuring an even application. Also, you really want to use two towels when leveling and removing coating. I usually use two different colored towels as it makes it much easier to differentiate them.
ive done both methods and personally prefer using 2 different sections of the same towel. the autofiber quadrant are my current favorite, they are numbered so you never forget which sections youve used and which you havent. If i was doing coatings professionally i would probably go to the 2 towel method as it would save towels.
Great video. I like how you included the whole process and discussed it at length. NextLed has been good to me so far. I need to get the inspection light. I contacted them few months ago and they mentioned coming out with one with diffuser s soon. Have a good one!
They say it's not ceramic, but it's not SiO2 that makes ceramic coatings behave as we commonly think of. It uses a polysilazane resin just like many, many other coatings. The SiO2 or diamonds or graphene or whatever else are used are just solids added in, but every coating is mostly composed of some polysilazane or polysiloxane.
It's a Perhydropolysilazane (PHPS) resin that is purported to be the hardest of all transparent silica based polymers that cure at room temp. That along with the "enriched" (which is likely somewhat similar to the C6 "refined detonated") nano diamonds makes it a pretty tough coating from what I've seen. I've had my DB36 coating on for almost 16 months and I have not had to baby it at all. It gets a good alkaline prewash (Active Foam, BH Touch-Less or Stjarnagloss Forst citrus pre-cleaner) when I inevitably let it get very dirty. After that and a good pressure rinse I wash it with rinseless and wipe it dry. Have not topped it with anything, not even a detail spray, and it still performs like day 1. I've also used KCx Reactivation Shampoo and DIY Water Spot Remover so it isn't afraid of acid either (unlike a certain TH-camr has claimed). Install was stupid easy and I gave it the recommended 3-4 weeks before the first full wash. Honestly I've done this for every coating I've ever installed and it's not nearly as big of a deal as people make it out to be. Just give it a chance to fully cure and don't risk your work. I'll take the easy install and quick release time (one hour and it can go out in the weather) for a couple extra weeks to get a full hard cure.
@ I tried the wheel coating and it was terrible and did not last more than 4 months. Maybe they tweaked their formulas. This is just a lot of marketing speak. I have seen no evidence their coating outperforms even old CQ UK 3.0. It’s not just one reviewer. Why do you think there’s few to no long term follow-ups on this coating from the companies that pushed it really hard? The answer is probably that many TH-camrs don’t want to say anything negative. Still, it’s possible that it improved. Their “enriched” carbon is fluorinated, it’s not the same as D Quartz or C6. I will say the glass coating is a durability beast and is still slightly working for me at almost 3 years.
@@chrisbradley3224 I've got two sets of wheels that I'm doing coating comparison testing on. One set is some winter wheels (faces and barrels are coated) for my wife's car. Two wheels (driver's side) have DPT Wheel, and the passenger side wheels are Armour Detail Supply Wheel coating. The wheels are staggered and the tires are directional, so they don't get rotated. The other set are on my car where the faces of all four wheels are split down the middle with both coatings. These wheels are currently in use year round as they're only a temporary (free) set until I can get my 20s refinished and new tires installed. The winter wheels are in their 3rd season now and both coatings are still performing well. The only difference I have noticed is that DPT will clog with salt a little quicker, but both eventually get clogged. DIY WSR (lactic acid) brings both of them right back. The DPT bottle for this set of wheels was purchased at release from the initial batch. On my 4 season wheels, the coatings have been installed for a little over a year and the difference between them is almost imperceptible. I have a reel on my IG (jeffc_81_21) that shows a clip of one of the wheels. Again, DPT clogs with salt slightly quicker but both eventually do. The DPT bottle for this set was purchased 15 months ago. I have not seen any difference between either DPT bottles.
jeffc I also have DB36 on my F150 going on about 18 months. I have used BH prewash and diy all clean and a very diluted version of KCX reactive shampoo because I watched a certain cleaner destroy DB36 on a vehicle. My mistake is that I always use a drying aid, masking the coatings performance. I thought it was weak or gone, then I used P&S crystal wash with frostbite and the coating was revived. Rinseless will be my only drying aid from now on. Diamond glass is 18 months old too, and is still performing like new. The wheel coating I feel was gone in a season. I wish there were more reviews or info on DB36 because it is a good coating which didn’t seem to go viral.
@@jonmadill9001 yeah my experience with other coatings has been that whenever you use a drying aid with protection, you are making the coating much more susceptible to contamination because you are essentially covering it up with an inferior protection that gets contaminated/clogged more easily. Then when you keep adding that at every wash, it just builds more and more and any contamination that isn't getting removed during the wash is essentially getting locked into that "shell" over the coating. Many of these products are also so durable that it can be difficult to remove them chemically and you end up needing to stop applying them and wait for them to wear off. I'd rather leave my coating to do the job it was designed to do. If/when it starts to fall off I can take whatever steps are necessary to fully decontaminate it. Once I know DB36 is starting to diminish then I will probably top it with DPT Quick Body and eventually start using something with a little protection to get me by until I can polish and re-coat. At this point, I'm quite certain it would go well past 36 months for my garaged vehicle...but my guess is that my wife, son and the general public will have inflicted enough scratches and marring that I'll need to polish it long before the coating reaches end of life. People need to get on the rinseless train more. Even if you prefer to do a two bucket wash with soap, rinseless makes the perfect drying aid for anyone. All the safety and slickness you need, with none of the protection or residue you don't. You can even use a rinseless like Absolute, Hero or Clean by Pan Rinse-Less at 128:1 and get a few days of slick detail spray type feel, but it is gone within a few days.
Looks like you p”follow the obsessed garbage method of not inspecting the paint after making your passes? Lol just giving you a hard time but it is something you probably should try to do just so it becomes habit
Interested to see the longevity of this one!
Just found your channel, I'm hooked on your content! I have DB36 on my car and a big fan. Try their glass coating, it absorbs nearly 100% with nearly zero to wipe off. Also ordered 2 shirts. Love my OG shirts, and looking forward to trying out IG shirts !!
ill get some glass coating and try it out! Thanks for getting some shirts, super cool of you.
Nice video and great explanations Jeff. My install experience was a little different as I did it during an October cold snap with my 80k heater going. I ended up heating up the garage and then turned it off because I didn't want the hot air blowing directly on the vehicle while I was applying. Because of that, the humidity was increasing as I was working. Flash time when i started was between 13 and 15 minutes, but by the end it was down to about 8 minutes. So you definitely need to watch it when the humidity goes up.
I would say for an experienced installer with a well controlled climate on an average size car, they could just about get around an entire vehicle before wiping off.
I had the same experience in that there was practically nothing left to level. Just a light haze that came off super easy. I did give it the full 3-4 week wait before washing, especially since the weather then was so cold and snowy.
Since then though I definitely have not babied the coating at all. I don't get to wash it nearly as much as i would like to, but it just keeps performing with only a strong pre-wash (when needed) and rinseless contact wash. I do not use toppers of any sort, and it cleans up very well even after the worst that Minnesota can throw at it (bugs, gravel roads, heat, cold, winter grime and tons of road salt).
I appreciate you sharing your experience!
I appreciate this video. I have had the same kit for about 4 months now but have been sceptical of applying it due to curing time before it allows your first wash (3 weeks if I remember correctly). Would be nice to get some updates on performance etc
Using crosshatch pattern actually does help with ensuring an even application. Also, you really want to use two towels when leveling and removing coating. I usually use two different colored towels as it makes it much easier to differentiate them.
For years, I have done it like when applying wax, never missed a spot and better in application, and for leveling for me.
ive done both methods and personally prefer using 2 different sections of the same towel. the autofiber quadrant are my current favorite, they are numbered so you never forget which sections youve used and which you havent. If i was doing coatings professionally i would probably go to the 2 towel method as it would save towels.
Great video. I like how you included the whole process and discussed it at length. NextLed has been good to me so far. I need to get the inspection light. I contacted them few months ago and they mentioned coming out with one with diffuser s soon. Have a good one!
They say it's not ceramic, but it's not SiO2 that makes ceramic coatings behave as we commonly think of. It uses a polysilazane resin just like many, many other coatings. The SiO2 or diamonds or graphene or whatever else are used are just solids added in, but every coating is mostly composed of some polysilazane or polysiloxane.
It's a Perhydropolysilazane (PHPS) resin that is purported to be the hardest of all transparent silica based polymers that cure at room temp. That along with the "enriched" (which is likely somewhat similar to the C6 "refined detonated") nano diamonds makes it a pretty tough coating from what I've seen.
I've had my DB36 coating on for almost 16 months and I have not had to baby it at all. It gets a good alkaline prewash (Active Foam, BH Touch-Less or Stjarnagloss Forst citrus pre-cleaner) when I inevitably let it get very dirty. After that and a good pressure rinse I wash it with rinseless and wipe it dry. Have not topped it with anything, not even a detail spray, and it still performs like day 1. I've also used KCx Reactivation Shampoo and DIY Water Spot Remover so it isn't afraid of acid either (unlike a certain TH-camr has claimed).
Install was stupid easy and I gave it the recommended 3-4 weeks before the first full wash. Honestly I've done this for every coating I've ever installed and it's not nearly as big of a deal as people make it out to be. Just give it a chance to fully cure and don't risk your work. I'll take the easy install and quick release time (one hour and it can go out in the weather) for a couple extra weeks to get a full hard cure.
@ I tried the wheel coating and it was terrible and did not last more than 4 months. Maybe they tweaked their formulas. This is just a lot of marketing speak. I have seen no evidence their coating outperforms even old CQ UK 3.0. It’s not just one reviewer. Why do you think there’s few to no long term follow-ups on this coating from the companies that pushed it really hard? The answer is probably that many TH-camrs don’t want to say anything negative. Still, it’s possible that it improved. Their “enriched” carbon is fluorinated, it’s not the same as D Quartz or C6. I will say the glass coating is a durability beast and is still slightly working for me at almost 3 years.
@@chrisbradley3224 I've got two sets of wheels that I'm doing coating comparison testing on. One set is some winter wheels (faces and barrels are coated) for my wife's car. Two wheels (driver's side) have DPT Wheel, and the passenger side wheels are Armour Detail Supply Wheel coating. The wheels are staggered and the tires are directional, so they don't get rotated.
The other set are on my car where the faces of all four wheels are split down the middle with both coatings. These wheels are currently in use year round as they're only a temporary (free) set until I can get my 20s refinished and new tires installed.
The winter wheels are in their 3rd season now and both coatings are still performing well. The only difference I have noticed is that DPT will clog with salt a little quicker, but both eventually get clogged. DIY WSR (lactic acid) brings both of them right back. The DPT bottle for this set of wheels was purchased at release from the initial batch.
On my 4 season wheels, the coatings have been installed for a little over a year and the difference between them is almost imperceptible. I have a reel on my IG (jeffc_81_21) that shows a clip of one of the wheels. Again, DPT clogs with salt slightly quicker but both eventually do. The DPT bottle for this set was purchased 15 months ago. I have not seen any difference between either DPT bottles.
jeffc I also have DB36 on my F150 going on about 18 months. I have used BH prewash and diy all clean and a very diluted version of KCX reactive shampoo because I watched a certain cleaner destroy DB36 on a vehicle.
My mistake is that I always use a drying aid, masking the coatings performance. I thought it was weak or gone, then I used P&S crystal wash with frostbite and the coating was revived.
Rinseless will be my only drying aid from now on.
Diamond glass is 18 months old too, and is still performing like new.
The wheel coating I feel was gone in a season.
I wish there were more reviews or info on DB36 because it is a good coating which didn’t seem to go viral.
@@jonmadill9001 yeah my experience with other coatings has been that whenever you use a drying aid with protection, you are making the coating much more susceptible to contamination because you are essentially covering it up with an inferior protection that gets contaminated/clogged more easily. Then when you keep adding that at every wash, it just builds more and more and any contamination that isn't getting removed during the wash is essentially getting locked into that "shell" over the coating. Many of these products are also so durable that it can be difficult to remove them chemically and you end up needing to stop applying them and wait for them to wear off.
I'd rather leave my coating to do the job it was designed to do. If/when it starts to fall off I can take whatever steps are necessary to fully decontaminate it. Once I know DB36 is starting to diminish then I will probably top it with DPT Quick Body and eventually start using something with a little protection to get me by until I can polish and re-coat. At this point, I'm quite certain it would go well past 36 months for my garaged vehicle...but my guess is that my wife, son and the general public will have inflicted enough scratches and marring that I'll need to polish it long before the coating reaches end of life.
People need to get on the rinseless train more. Even if you prefer to do a two bucket wash with soap, rinseless makes the perfect drying aid for anyone. All the safety and slickness you need, with none of the protection or residue you don't. You can even use a rinseless like Absolute, Hero or Clean by Pan Rinse-Less at 128:1 and get a few days of slick detail spray type feel, but it is gone within a few days.
Nice to see
Looks like you p”follow the obsessed garbage method of not inspecting the paint after making your passes? Lol just giving you a hard time but it is something you probably should try to do just so it becomes habit