1. The brake bolt thread seems too short. Instead of a flat washer and spring washer, use a nyloc nut, and/or Loctite. 2. Brazing or fillet welding is a perfectly good fix for that crack. Re-turn afterwards for perfect original size. No problem to use the lathe itself to do that without the brake installed!
Thank you very much for the suggestions, we will have a look into those. We are running the lathe without the brake at the moment and as you said, it seems to be working well still. Take care
Great job on getting the lathe running right again Joseph. It is amazing how much knowledge you have in the shop and on fixing the tractors. That goes to show what a good teacher your Dad is and The amount of patience he has. Great job to you both.
A great video. Fantastic to see younger generations (myself included) interested in the engineering of the past and some fantastic machines through the ages. You'll no doubt be a greybeard engineer who's opinion is greatly respected before long.
Thank you for the kind words. I think these old manual machine are the best way to learn. When we get a bit more time we hope to get our very old shaper operational, lots to learn to operate that. Take care
Hello Joseph, Good diagnosis on the brake system. Unfortunately I have no idea where to get a new brake drum. I wish you the best of luck finding the parts you need. Interesting video!!!
I think I would V out the crack and weld it. And only weld a little at a time, so it doesn’t warp. Or take it to a machine shop and get one made. I have no idea where you would find a new one. Great video Joseph.
You’re gaining a tremendous amount of mechanical knowledge but digging into these repairs! It will benefit you during your lifetime! Great job Joseph. I don’t have any advice on the parts needed (new or used)
Hi Joseph I hope you and your father have been having a good week. You did a very nice job troubleshooting and explaining the issue with the lathe I haven't had the opportunity to operate or understand the purpose of a lathe. I wish I could be more help with trying to parts for it. I hope you and your father are able to get the issue resolved it looks like a interesting machine thank you for another episode of work shop Wednesday until next time stay well and take care. 👍
Thank you very much and I hope you are having a good week too. The lathe is a great tool for making replacment parts for our garden tractors. Take care
You did a great job Joseph: my Colchester Bantam did not have a brake (the previous owner took it off) and so I use the brake of the inverter, which works very well and is programmable (braking time and ramp, that is, how quickly to go to 0 Rpm). You do well to use gloves, but I can't do it with small parts, in Italy we say that "the cat with gloves does not catch the mouse", because the nails are covered by the gloves 😁 If one day you decide to install an inverter like mine, your lathe will become super silent and it will be even easier to use it, it will have an infinite number of revolutions adjustable with a potentiometer. See you soon Joseph, congratulations on the repair !! AB-SHOP
Thanks. We have a digital phase converter which runs all the 3 phase equipment in the workshop, if the Colchester was the only 3 phase piece of equipment we had an inverter would be the way to go. We will look into one for all the other reasons you mentioned. Take care
Good eyes to catch that never so tiny fracture Joseph. As old as that lathe is, I would rather imagine that you are going to have to make that part. Good luck with it.
That is just fascinating to me Joseph! Very good eyes to catch the fracture in the break - sorry I have no suggestions on how to or where to get a replacement. Looking forward to learning the outcome! Take care!!
Thanks. I do not think replacement parts have been available for a lot of years. I am hoping someone who has a similar machine has found an alternative replacement, if not we will have to search. Take care
Amazing to see that there is any visible deflection when you actuate the brake. I wonder if that is the casts way of finding its own centre. perhaps a groove hogged out around the inner that could contain a radially wound keeper coil that would allow for expansion when applied yet hold it together with no sag while it normally runs... or something like that.
Hello Joseph, Now you have the measurements maybe you and or Dad could consider making the new brake drum, It does not have to be on camera but would make a great project for you both... If you need any help in working out the order of operations let me know and I will see if I can help. Take care. Paul,,
Thanks. We were hoping to keep the drum and just replace the piece of cast, either with brake shoes or something else. We have a couple of ideas but wanted to see what people suggested first. Take care
Right Joseph, now I see the problem! The expander for the brake is there, but the shoes are not! Is it possible that you could take off the cast "brake " and fit shoes and linings, I have never seen a brake setup like this on a Colchester, but with the relieved areas on the cast brake shoe, it does look like a factory part, although it "looks" like you may be able to do a direct swap for ordinary brake shoes, I will do some research and get back to you! Phil
Thank you very much. Dad has also posted the issue on the Colchester forum. If this is not a factory replacement someone has spent a lot of time making this part and thought of most issues except the stress on the top mounting bolt area. If you can find any information that would be great. Take care
Good day eh!! Nice work trouble shooting the lathe drive issues you guys!!! I think you're on the right track to replace the brake drum. I have no idea where you would source one though. Good luck and take care!!!
@@GardenTractorBoy So you cold make a drawing and machine the part on the lathe, but the lathe needs the part to work. Now there's a conundrum for sure eh!!!
My old roundhead Student lathe had the exact same split cast ring in the brake. "Had" because I took it out for some long forgotten reason! I guess it was worn & ineffective. Maybe I thought I'd replace it with something better, but I never did. Just got used to doing without a brake...
That is very interesting, it suggests the cast ring is a standard Colchester part. How long does it take for the lathe to stop without a brake? Take care
It is very cool to get a message from Chile and even better that you have one of these old British lathes. The direction control is the small lever to the left of the start/stop lever. If you drop me an email I will sent you a PDF copy of the lathe manual. Take care
If it's cast iron and if you can't find a replacement you could braze it and machine it down back to the proper dimensions. Sorry no idea where to source a new one. Keith Rucker has many good videos on doing the brazing. Good luck!
Excellent detective work and if nothing else, a good temporary solution. You can probably buy an iron disc blank from M-machine-metals and machine it the lathe and the mill, right? May i ask - you have such a wonderful workshop, how did it get started? You've mentioned a few times you're getting used to working with the machines, which makes me think maybe they were bought and stored, or inherited? Anyway, you've got me gassing for a Colchester now :)
Thanks. That is a good idea, we will check out the blank disks they sell. I will let dad answer the second bit. Hi William, two children, working long hours and a high maintenance property left very little time overy the last 20 years for workshop time but it did give me the opportunity to buy lots of tools and projects. I have just retired and now it is time to dust off the tools and projects. If you fancy a trip to Norfolk it would be great to meet you and give you the opportunity to test out the Colchester and Cincinnatti mill. Take care
I have an old, much smaller 9X36, "engine" lathe. It does not have a brake & I'm wondering what a brake is needed for. Maybe that larger machine has a lot of momentum when shut off.
The brake was fitted to stop the momentum when you switch it off. When the lathe was sold new in the 1950's the advertising said that the brake stopped the lathe instantly, which is not true. We do wonder just how long it would take to stop without a brake, it certainly would be quieter to use. We will have to give it a go. Take care
Great debugging the problem Team Joseph and camera man 😉🙂. Will you be making a new piece to replace the fractured one or you’ll be sourcing one? Great video Joseph 🙋🏼♂️🙂👍🏻
Hi Jospeh, I've got a slighly older model (master 6") do you know how to remove the lid of the gearbox on yours? mine seems to have an very similar looking lid and I was trying to get it open today but couldn't. It seems after removing all the screws its supposed to slide away from the two gear handles on the top but I had no luck. Thanks for your video and help
Thanks. We have removed the lid from ours a few times to see if we can identify noisy bearings. We removed all the fixings and slid the lid forward until it cleared the gear change controls. I believe we did need to give it a very gentle tap with a soft faced hammer to get it started. If this does not work for you let me know and we will remove ours to check the process and even video it if it helps. Take care
@GardenTractorBoy thanks for the advice, I did try hitting it all over wirh a rubber mallet, it didn't budge at all, I also did managed to stick flat head screwdriver between the lid and gearbox and it does separate, so there's definitely nothing holding it down apart from those levers. If you can remember, where and in what direction did you have to tap it to get it to release, and was there a particular orientation that the gear levers need to be in? Thanks for your help, I'll try again to get the lid off tomorrow, if you could make a video on the subject that would be amazing
Over the weekend we took the lid off the gearbox on our Colchester and videoed doing it. Our broadband is not great so it will not be until Wednesday at 7pm GMT before it is uploaded and live on TH-cam. We moved our gear selectors into the middle (neutral) position as it was the pins on the levers that was holding the lid on and the indentation was much less in the middle. We hit the top with a soft faced hammer from the back, knocking the lid forward. The best contact point is where the bolt holes are but we avoided that as I suspect that is a weak point in the casting. Our top does not have a gasket or any sealant but even then it was surprising how much the pins on the gear selectors hold the lid down. Another option would be to remove the knobs and pins from the gear selectors or find a way to bridge under the two selectors to lift them slightly. We have a number of Colchester experts who follow our videos and once the video is live I hope they will jump in with further advice. Let us know how it goes
@@GardenTractorBoy Thank you so much, It won't be until easter that I will be back home to try again (I went back home on the weekend to get the lathe setup) but I really appreciate your help with this, I'll let you know how it goes!
@@bradley9856Also let us know if the video raises futher questions. We have an odd noise in our gearbox which is why we have removed the top a few times. It is possible that once the video goes life someone will offer some suggestions
It can be hard to find a replacement for old equipment. People have a machine shop make parts or use a Metal 3D printing if metal. Or weld it and grind it down.
It is an odd design as I didn't think cast performed very well in this type of use. It is even more odd that with the brake removed it makes no difference to the speed it slows down, we do wonder if the brake was for production work. Take care
@@GardenTractorBoy Do you know that's very interesting. My Harrison has a far more basic brake, not much more than two collars rubbing together on the gearbox input shaft pulled by the clutch springs but it works very well when the lathe is warm. When the lathe is stone cold it does not work very well because the oil is think so there is not much friction between the faces on the collars. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed We bought some brake shoes from an electric scooter in order to adapt and fit at some point but as the brake makes little difference, this is low priority. The differences between different makes is very interesting, we noticed that a lot from your mill and our ones
It looks like a cast iron expanding brake shoe. My 17" Colchester I believe is called the Mascotte. Anyhow, my lathe has motorbike type shoes with composite fabric friction linings. My advice for a fix is to let it crack. If it does, fit some tension springs to pull the broken halves together. Seriously. It has cracked at a flexure area where it was supposed to flex. Iron does not flex. Should have tarred and feathered the engineer on that one. But I would not replace it, just re-design the mechanism to have the split in two, pieces retained by a spring. I actually has a machine with a cast iron expanding band that was broken. It was a Clausing 8520 mill, a small engineering mill. Anyhow, I made a new brake band out of aluminum-bronze. It is primarily a bronze alloy, if you know the material. Anyhow, it worked perfect. If you absolutely have to make a new one, consider aluminum-bronze. That is what synchronizer rings in manual transmissions are made of. Good fix, but I would have considered just a smaller OD washer. Also beware of that split lock washer. It looks very cheap, and I have seen may of those in the metric pattern variety that the steel is soft as cheese. You might consider a Nylon locking nut or super glue or Loctite on the thread. ---Doozer
Thanks. It does seem like a very odd design. At the moment we have removed the brake and it seems to stop at about the same speed. We have bought some brake shoes from an electric motobike to try at some point and I like your idea of fitting some tension springs. Take care
Thanks. We did initially think it was something someone made but now someone has mentioned that they have the same cast ring in an identical lathe. Take care
That brake shoe looks like it is designed to crack. It looks like a poor design. You do need to check that noise. It could be a dry bearing or gear. Nice video. Good Luck, Rick
That is exactly what we thought, the bit where the bolt goes through is the weak part and the rest is just a matter of time. Thanks for the suggestions, we have checked over the gearbox and bearings but we did not cover it in the video. Thanks and take care
You can thx DJ over at Foxberg's for including one of your Stickers when he sent his in to Bears Rod Shop. Just Sub to your channel, and when I have time to get ours done, will return the favor. The rest of 2022 + will be trying to keep my Bride of 50 yrs alive from Osteosarcoma with G2 -T2 cancer. Will be watching your channel as time allows, Bear, YT Creator in TX USA
I am pleased DJ sent you one of my stickers and I have checked out your channel, I will add a sub. Even though we have just met through TH-cam I would like to pass on my best wishes to you and your wife. Take care
1. The brake bolt thread seems too short. Instead of a flat washer and spring washer, use a nyloc nut, and/or Loctite.
2. Brazing or fillet welding is a perfectly good fix for that crack. Re-turn afterwards for perfect original size. No problem to use the lathe itself to do that without the brake installed!
Thank you very much for the suggestions, we will have a look into those. We are running the lathe without the brake at the moment and as you said, it seems to be working well still. Take care
Great job on getting the lathe running right again Joseph. It is amazing how much knowledge you have in the shop and on fixing the tractors. That goes to show what a good teacher your Dad is and The amount of patience he has. Great job to you both.
Thank you for the kind words. It is good to understand how these machines work. Take care
A very interesting video 🎉. Really enjoyed watching. keep them coming 🎉. many thanks from Chris and Jane 🎉
Thanks for watching, take care
A great video. Fantastic to see younger generations (myself included) interested in the engineering of the past and some fantastic machines through the ages. You'll no doubt be a greybeard engineer who's opinion is greatly respected before long.
Thank you for the kind words. I think these old manual machine are the best way to learn. When we get a bit more time we hope to get our very old shaper operational, lots to learn to operate that. Take care
Keep it up serving us greatness
Thank you very much
Hello Joseph,
Good diagnosis on the brake system. Unfortunately I have no idea where to get a new brake drum. I wish you the best of luck finding the parts you need. Interesting video!!!
Thank you. We are hoping someone with a similar lathe has a suggested replacement. If not we will have to research further. Take care
Very cool old machine. You’re well ahead of most kids your age Joseph. Most adults for that matter. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for the kind words and encouragement. Take care
I think I would V out the crack and weld it. And only weld a little at a time, so it doesn’t warp. Or take it to a machine shop and get one made. I have no idea where you would find a new one.
Great video Joseph.
Great idea, thanks. Take care
Interesting setup, that took a lot research to figure out what was causing the problem. Good luck finding the repair parts 👍
Thank you very much. We are hoping that an aftermaket replacement of some description is available. Take care
You’re gaining a tremendous amount of mechanical knowledge but digging into these repairs! It will benefit you during your lifetime! Great job Joseph. I don’t have any advice on the parts needed (new or used)
Thank you very much. It is very interesting looking at this 1950's equipment. Take care
Hi Joseph I hope you and your father have been having a good week. You did a very nice job troubleshooting and explaining the issue with the lathe I haven't had the opportunity to operate or understand the purpose of a lathe. I wish I could be more help with trying to parts for it. I hope you and your father are able to get the issue resolved it looks like a interesting machine thank you for another episode of work shop Wednesday until next time stay well and take care. 👍
Thank you very much and I hope you are having a good week too. The lathe is a great tool for making replacment parts for our garden tractors. Take care
You did a great job Joseph: my Colchester Bantam did not have a brake (the previous owner took it off) and so I use the brake of the inverter, which works very well and is programmable (braking time and ramp, that is, how quickly to go to 0 Rpm). You do well to use gloves, but I can't do it with small parts, in Italy we say that "the cat with gloves does not catch the mouse", because the nails are covered by the gloves 😁 If one day you decide to install an inverter like mine, your lathe will become super silent and it will be even easier to use it, it will have an infinite number of revolutions adjustable with a potentiometer. See you soon Joseph, congratulations on the repair !! AB-SHOP
Thanks. We have a digital phase converter which runs all the 3 phase equipment in the workshop, if the Colchester was the only 3 phase piece of equipment we had an inverter would be the way to go. We will look into one for all the other reasons you mentioned. Take care
Good eyes to catch that never so tiny fracture Joseph. As old as that lathe is, I would rather imagine that you are going to have to make that part. Good luck with it.
Thanks. I think you are right, replacement parts for the lathe have not been made for many years. Take care
That is just fascinating to me Joseph! Very good eyes to catch the fracture in the break - sorry I have no suggestions on how to or where to get a replacement. Looking forward to learning the outcome! Take care!!
Thank you. We are hoping someone with a similar machine has a suggestion for a replacement. If not we will have to research further. Take care
Hi Joseph. That's to bad about that fracture. Hopefully you can find a replacement. Have a good day my friend
Thanks. I do not think replacement parts have been available for a lot of years. I am hoping someone who has a similar machine has found an alternative replacement, if not we will have to search. Take care
Amazing to see that there is any visible deflection when you actuate the brake. I wonder if that is the casts way of finding its own centre. perhaps a groove hogged out around the inner that could contain a radially wound keeper coil that would allow for expansion when applied yet hold it together with no sag while it normally runs... or something like that.
Thanks for the great suggestion, that is worth thinking about. Take care
IT LOOKS LIKE YOU HAVE A GOOD PLAN, NICE JOB
Thank you very much
I have no lathe experience. I'm glad you guys have a plan/fix for it. It looks pretty heavy duty!
Thanks. It is a cool machine and very well made. Take care
Hello Joseph,
Now you have the measurements maybe you and or Dad could consider making the new brake drum, It does not have to be on camera but would make a great project for you both... If you need any help in working out the order of operations let me know and I will see if I can help.
Take care.
Paul,,
I was thinking the same thing....don't look like an overly complicated part, assuming of course there aren't places to simply buy a NOS unit
Thanks. We were hoping to keep the drum and just replace the piece of cast, either with brake shoes or something else. We have a couple of ideas but wanted to see what people suggested first. Take care
Right Joseph, now I see the problem! The expander for the brake is there, but the shoes are not! Is it possible that you could take off the cast "brake " and fit shoes and linings, I have never seen a brake setup like this on a Colchester, but with the relieved areas on the cast brake shoe, it does look like a factory part, although it "looks" like you may be able to do a direct swap for ordinary brake shoes, I will do some research and get back to you!
Phil
Thank you very much. Dad has also posted the issue on the Colchester forum. If this is not a factory replacement someone has spent a lot of time making this part and thought of most issues except the stress on the top mounting bolt area. If you can find any information that would be great. Take care
My best friend, that's a great video. I will always cheer for you in Korea I'm looking forward to a great video. Have a nice day.
Thank you very much
Good day eh!! Nice work trouble shooting the lathe drive issues you guys!!! I think you're on the right track to replace the brake drum. I have no idea where you would source one though. Good luck and take care!!!
Thanks. It is interesting looking into the issue on this old lathe however no parts have been available for many years. Take care
@@GardenTractorBoy So you cold make a drawing and machine the part on the lathe, but the lathe needs the part to work. Now there's a conundrum for sure eh!!!
My old roundhead Student lathe had the exact same split cast ring in the brake. "Had" because I took it out for some long forgotten reason! I guess it was worn & ineffective. Maybe I thought I'd replace it with something better, but I never did. Just got used to doing without a brake...
That is very interesting, it suggests the cast ring is a standard Colchester part. How long does it take for the lathe to stop without a brake? Take care
Exelente trabajo Recién compré uno y una duda que tengo es como invertir la rotación cuando estoy haciendo un rosca. Saludos desde Chile.
It is very cool to get a message from Chile and even better that you have one of these old British lathes. The direction control is the small lever to the left of the start/stop lever. If you drop me an email I will sent you a PDF copy of the lathe manual. Take care
If it's cast iron and if you can't find a replacement you could braze it and machine it down back to the proper dimensions. Sorry no idea where to source a new one. Keith Rucker has many good videos on doing the brazing. Good luck!
That is a good idea, thanks. Take care
I have had very little experience with lathes but that brake is a great function,my little atlas doesn't have a brake.
After we made the video we did think it would be worth trying the lathe without a brake installed to see how long it takes to slow down
Excellent detective work and if nothing else, a good temporary solution. You can probably buy an iron disc blank from M-machine-metals and machine it the lathe and the mill, right? May i ask - you have such a wonderful workshop, how did it get started? You've mentioned a few times you're getting used to working with the machines, which makes me think maybe they were bought and stored, or inherited? Anyway, you've got me gassing for a Colchester now :)
Thanks. That is a good idea, we will check out the blank disks they sell. I will let dad answer the second bit. Hi William, two children, working long hours and a high maintenance property left very little time overy the last 20 years for workshop time but it did give me the opportunity to buy lots of tools and projects. I have just retired and now it is time to dust off the tools and projects. If you fancy a trip to Norfolk it would be great to meet you and give you the opportunity to test out the Colchester and Cincinnatti mill. Take care
I have an old, much smaller 9X36, "engine" lathe. It does not have a brake & I'm wondering what a brake is needed for. Maybe that larger machine has a lot of momentum when shut off.
The brake was fitted to stop the momentum when you switch it off. When the lathe was sold new in the 1950's the advertising said that the brake stopped the lathe instantly, which is not true. We do wonder just how long it would take to stop without a brake, it certainly would be quieter to use. We will have to give it a go. Take care
Great debugging the problem Team Joseph and camera man 😉🙂. Will you be making a new piece to replace the fractured one or you’ll be sourcing one? Great video Joseph 🙋🏼♂️🙂👍🏻
Thank you. We are hoping someone with a similar machine will suggest a replacement, if not we will have to make something. Take care
Hi Jospeh, I've got a slighly older model (master 6") do you know how to remove the lid of the gearbox on yours? mine seems to have an very similar looking lid and I was trying to get it open today but couldn't. It seems after removing all the screws its supposed to slide away from the two gear handles on the top but I had no luck.
Thanks for your video and help
Thanks. We have removed the lid from ours a few times to see if we can identify noisy bearings. We removed all the fixings and slid the lid forward until it cleared the gear change controls. I believe we did need to give it a very gentle tap with a soft faced hammer to get it started. If this does not work for you let me know and we will remove ours to check the process and even video it if it helps. Take care
@GardenTractorBoy thanks for the advice, I did try hitting it all over wirh a rubber mallet, it didn't budge at all, I also did managed to stick flat head screwdriver between the lid and gearbox and it does separate, so there's definitely nothing holding it down apart from those levers.
If you can remember, where and in what direction did you have to tap it to get it to release, and was there a particular orientation that the gear levers need to be in?
Thanks for your help, I'll try again to get the lid off tomorrow, if you could make a video on the subject that would be amazing
Over the weekend we took the lid off the gearbox on our Colchester and videoed doing it. Our broadband is not great so it will not be until Wednesday at 7pm GMT before it is uploaded and live on TH-cam. We moved our gear selectors into the middle (neutral) position as it was the pins on the levers that was holding the lid on and the indentation was much less in the middle. We hit the top with a soft faced hammer from the back, knocking the lid forward. The best contact point is where the bolt holes are but we avoided that as I suspect that is a weak point in the casting. Our top does not have a gasket or any sealant but even then it was surprising how much the pins on the gear selectors hold the lid down. Another option would be to remove the knobs and pins from the gear selectors or find a way to bridge under the two selectors to lift them slightly. We have a number of Colchester experts who follow our videos and once the video is live I hope they will jump in with further advice. Let us know how it goes
@@GardenTractorBoy Thank you so much, It won't be until easter that I will be back home to try again (I went back home on the weekend to get the lathe setup) but I really appreciate your help with this, I'll let you know how it goes!
@@bradley9856Also let us know if the video raises futher questions. We have an odd noise in our gearbox which is why we have removed the top a few times. It is possible that once the video goes life someone will offer some suggestions
It can be hard to find a replacement for old equipment. People have a machine shop make parts or
use a Metal 3D printing if metal. Or weld it and grind it down.
Thanks for the great suggestions. Take care
Interesting to see that brake design, thanks. Totally different from the Harrison. Cheers
It is an odd design as I didn't think cast performed very well in this type of use. It is even more odd that with the brake removed it makes no difference to the speed it slows down, we do wonder if the brake was for production work. Take care
@@GardenTractorBoy Do you know that's very interesting. My Harrison has a far more basic brake, not much more than two collars rubbing together on the gearbox input shaft pulled by the clutch springs but it works very well when the lathe is warm. When the lathe is stone cold it does not work very well because the oil is think so there is not much friction between the faces on the collars. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed We bought some brake shoes from an electric scooter in order to adapt and fit at some point but as the brake makes little difference, this is low priority. The differences between different makes is very interesting, we noticed that a lot from your mill and our ones
Good catch on the Crack. The brake appears to me to have been machined specifically for your lathe.
Thanks. I think you may be right, it does look like a lot of work for someone to make one. Take care
Great video mate
Thanks 👍 I am pleased you liked it. Take care
Good video. Comments indicate either welding or turning a new one. I watch a guy that braises cast iron with good results.
Thanks, brasing is an interesting option. Take care
It looks like a cast iron expanding brake shoe. My 17" Colchester I believe is called the Mascotte. Anyhow, my lathe has motorbike type shoes with composite fabric friction linings. My advice for a fix is to let it crack. If it does, fit some tension springs to pull the broken halves together. Seriously. It has cracked at a flexure area where it was supposed to flex. Iron does not flex. Should have tarred and feathered the engineer on that one. But I would not replace it, just re-design the mechanism to have the split in two, pieces retained by a spring. I actually has a machine with a cast iron expanding band that was broken. It was a Clausing 8520 mill, a small engineering mill. Anyhow, I made a new brake band out of aluminum-bronze. It is primarily a bronze alloy, if you know the material. Anyhow, it worked perfect. If you absolutely have to make a new one, consider aluminum-bronze. That is what synchronizer rings in manual transmissions are made of. Good fix, but I would have considered just a smaller OD washer. Also beware of that split lock washer. It looks very cheap, and I have seen may of those in the metric pattern variety that the steel is soft as cheese. You might consider a Nylon locking nut or super glue or Loctite on the thread. ---Doozer
Thanks. It does seem like a very odd design. At the moment we have removed the brake and it seems to stop at about the same speed. We have bought some brake shoes from an electric motobike to try at some point and I like your idea of fitting some tension springs. Take care
The clutch mechanism on 2 of my machines is simply the cast iron itself...it's possible this is a factory part from technology long ago
Thanks. We did initially think it was something someone made but now someone has mentioned that they have the same cast ring in an identical lathe. Take care
That brake shoe looks like it is designed to crack. It looks like a poor design. You do need to check that noise. It could be a dry bearing or gear. Nice video. Good Luck, Rick
That is exactly what we thought, the bit where the bolt goes through is the weak part and the rest is just a matter of time. Thanks for the suggestions, we have checked over the gearbox and bearings but we did not cover it in the video. Thanks and take care
Hello Joseph like the video don't get your self in to a spin haha I say don't put a spanner in the works it won't work.
Thanks and very funny. Take care
@@GardenTractorBoy ok I like to make people laugh that's the best way to live life be happy and be yourself.
You can thx DJ over at Foxberg's for including one of your Stickers when he sent his in to Bears Rod Shop. Just Sub to your channel, and when I have time to get ours done, will return the favor. The rest of 2022 + will be trying to keep my Bride of 50 yrs alive from Osteosarcoma with G2 -T2 cancer. Will be watching your channel as time allows, Bear, YT Creator in TX USA
I am pleased DJ sent you one of my stickers and I have checked out your channel, I will add a sub. Even though we have just met through TH-cam I would like to pass on my best wishes to you and your wife. Take care