Mutiny True 12G Isolator - PROTECT YOUR SDI - Nano Breakout - Cables and More!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- THIS EPISODE - In this review, I take a look at many of the hundreds of products Mutiny has been creating to protect, enhance, expand, and connect your RED Komodo, KomodoX, V-Raptor and so many other brands. The True 12G Isolator might just be the best SDI protection you can buy!
Quick note: Mutiny reached out after the video and stated they are making QD mounts that fit the non standard 1” spacing. So, Tilta cage owners will have an option!
To purchase any of the Mutiny products you see, head to mutiny.store
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Scott, absolutely perfect video and exactly what was needed!! HUGE request, might you please be able to do a behind the scenes lighting tutorial on the setup in this video!! It’s just so dang good!!
Thank you. Yes, yes I can.
It's mindblowing that on facebook users pages there are so many people still even convinced that the right thing to do is to plug in the power cable after having connected video cables. And they are sooo convinced to be right! 🤣
Alright I'll order some Mutiny cables.
awesome video Scott!! I may or may not have come back to Komodo so this looks like my next purchase :) Thanks!!
HAHAHA!
Very nice, warm, & inviting lighting! Also, lots of great info as usual.
Balkum. King balkum. One thing I woud like to see is almost a BTS on a shoot how you go about your SDI. I see some say you dont even need to unplug it after the initial "ground" is made on the battery. I am unplugging it every time I power up/down. Which is a lot, when filming run n gun.
Those that say that and aren’t using this isolator are wrong. The way i do it is simple, before the isolator, I would just disconnect the sdi from the back of the monitor every single time before powering off. Then once everything is powered up, I plug it back in. You don’t have to wait for the Komodo to boot all the way up, after a solid 1-2 seconds, there won’t be a surge. And then, because I am excessively OCD about things, I will touch the outside of the sdi cable to the outside of the connector. In my brain it just makes me feel better because I am touching ground to ground which would dissipate any static charge. But the procedure I do takes 1/2 a second. I just grab the cable (which is always neatly secured to the power). And slide my fingers to the end, then just rub it against the sdi connector and turn 90 degrees and insert. IT literally takes 1/2 a second. Muscle memory.
Thank You. Now that you have Raptors and Komodo X, will you keep your komodo?@@ScottBalkum
@@user-zv7lm8uk7h Oh yes, Blue will always be here. She’s a workhorse.
Thanks for the great video! Any stats available on SDI related issues? How common is it?
Ultimately it isn’t NEAR as common as you would hear. It is far less than 1% of camera owners. You simply hear about them more often because no one comes by to comment “My 12G is fine”. And, I am one of them who has blown mine. That’s when I made the video and made sure I follow the FIFO to the letter. Now, with the isolator, I worry less. Not so much about me but everyone else that touches my camera.
You know when you've been watching Balkum too long when you are thinking "balkum blue" then he starts talking about balkum blue. And then you think "Drink Mudd" and you have been watching too much balkum...
Hahahahahah, made my day.
Thanks for the Video Scott and your charm haha, will these cables work for z cam e2f6 pro cameras also?
Yes, these are standard cable configurations. They will work on any device needing the specific connections. That Zcam has 12G SDI so using Mutiny’s True 12G cables will work great. And, you can get them in custom lengths and colors.
@@ScottBalkum Thanks)
I purchased the Freakshow Dual SDI adapter from them and asked about protection. They stated it had a level of protection, but not the ISO ( which was new at the time). I wonder if that protection was the "level 2" protection you talked about on the ISO version. Do you know by chance?
I do believe that is the level 2 protection circuit, yes.
Hi Justin. Mike from MUTINY here. For our 12G isolator the first level of protection is the switch which electronically cuts the signal path on SDI while keeping ground aways connected. The second layer is the FreakShowHD ESD chip which acts as a sacrificial lamb if the switch is not used or a catastrophic voltage spike happens from the battery, monitor or another accessory. The FreakshowHD Distribution Amps we sell, have that second layer of protection built in them but not the first.
@@MichaelSuttonMNS1974 Thanks Mike for refreshing my memory on this...again!
@@ScottBalkum Thanks Scott!
Hi, thank you for this video.
Can I use the Mutiny True 12G Isolator and plug the power (via Safetap V4) into my Wooden Camera Battery Slide Pro V-Mount plate (which is plugged directly into theKomodo power port)?
I use this v-mount plate so that I can also have a BP-955 plugged in as a backup in case the v-mount battery accidently drains.
You could but I would make sure to flip that switch any time you are swapping v-mounts.If your v-mount dies, you’ll be relying on the secondary protection in the isolator.
@@ScottBalkum Thank you! May I ask what v-mount plate you're using in the example here too?
@@dylankitchener8350 That’s the Core plate.
I hate 12g SDI. There. I said it. Everything should be a pinch lock USB C. I hate the feeling that you're ruining the port every time you disconnect/connect it. I hate not being able to source the cable in a small town and having to clutter my AC bag with replacement parts. I hate this power regulation issue. I hate that you can't trigger recording or control cameras via SDI like you can a fiber based HDMI. I could go on and on but, we gotta do better. I'm currently waiting for my port to be repaired after obeying the start up process to a T. Now because of this port I will have to rent a camera for the next month and lose money on productions.
PS Mutiny stuff is worth the price
I wish we had something better.
I don’t understand how using mains power is supposed to be any more different than battery power. The power brick has a transformer that steps the power down to 14v and then a rectifier that converts it to DC. Using a mains power isn’t ‘stronger’ or ‘more powerful’ than a battery, it has to be the exact same voltage and current or it would kill the camera.
The comment was not using the power brick but rather sending 120V AC to the power input, signaling that the device couldn’t soak up a massive voltage difference or type of power.