2017 Ford F250 front end rattle/pop fix
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มิ.ย. 2018
- I didn't know how much the track bar on these things affected the ride. Specifically the track bar bolt. Make sure the track bolt is tightened down like crazy. I don't have anymore rattle in my steering wheel and peddles and also no more pop during a turn. My truck doesn't track as much down the freeway and feels much more responsive.
OMG you are a life saver! My 2018 has just over 110k miles, I replaced both sides Upper & Lower Ball Joints, all 3 Tie Rod ends, the DragLink, Track Bar Ball Joint, & Swaybar Links/Bushings. After all of that my truck still had a rattle over slow speed bumps & loud pop/clunk when turning hard left/right in a parkinglot. Crawled under the truck last night after watching this with my 30" Bar and the TB bolt moved about 1/2 a turn. This morning the pop & rattle is completely gone!
Jason Kubitz Thank you so very much for putting this together! I just had a 2" BDS kit with Fox shocks installed and the truck drives like absolute dog s#!+ now. Prior to the level kit, the truck was absolutely solid. No tracking issues, no shaking, no wobble, no clunking, no high speed balance issues, no problems at all. Now I've got all of the symptoms that I just listed. -- Sure enough, I went out to look at the caster shims, and they are not installed. The shop that I went to (in Corpus Christi, TX) was a complete joke, and frankly I'm not going back, even if I have to rebuy the shims to have them installed elsewhere. I'm just so thankful that you've already figured this out. I'm guessing that I've got alignment issues (no shims), track bar bolt is not torqued correctly (heck I'm wondering about all of the nuts/bolts now), and I may have some tire/wheel balance issues too (I went with new wheels & larger tires 325x60-20).
Jeff Byrom Sorry for the late reply. I hope all of your issues have been resolved.
All I have to say, is Thank you it worked on my lifted 2013 f250. Thanks again
Same on my 19 with 2.5 readylift installed. Drove for couple hundred miles. Then popping noise. Tightened and solved!
Hell yeah glad to hear that helped! And on my first TH-cam comment ever haha. Thanks for the shout out. Side note. Be careful running that stabilizer so low. The seals are sealed by the nitrogen pressure and 30 psi is right at the low point of keeping that wiper seal from leaking. Keep an eye out for oil film on the stabilizer shaft. Learned that one the hard way myself.
mike Rydz Good to note. Fox told me to run it at 20 psi though for the pull to the left when towing. I did notice a good decrease in steering dampening at 30 psi though. I only really did it for the alignment guys so it wouldn't slowly move on them. Not so much for towing. My buddy works HVAC so I'll get some nitrogen from him. With the adapter of course.
EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENED WHEN I HAD A 2.5" LEVELING KIT ON MY 2017 F250!!! I had dual steering stabilizers installed nothing helped, but this did!!! THANKS GUYS
Solved the pop on my 02 7.3. Thanks for the info
Tanks for this just fixed my 14 f250
Thanks Dude. It fixed my 2017
Glad I came across this video. I just had a 2.5 inch readylift sst kit installed on my 2017 and just developed this sound. I was getting ready to take my truck to a shop to have all the front end parts (ball joints, bushings, etc) replaced. I will have to go get a breaker bar tomorrow and will attempt this before I go replace all the front end parts.
Breaker bar with a cheater and give her hell 😁
@@jasonkubitz9410 I mean I know they'll need to be replaced eventually, just don't want to do it right now lol.
@@s_hassell97 I hear ya. I haven't replaced any of my ball joints but they're definitely annoying me more and more when they really warm up. I'll probably do all Moog ball joints in the future. My main focus is all fluids lol. I'm really anal when it comes to maintaining all fluids.
I know this is an older video but I wanted to comment as I had the same exact issue. I noticed when pulling into my parking spot the final slight turn I was getting a "popping" sound. I ended up putting my phone under the truck and recording to see what was going on. I could see it was that BDS drop bracket bolt. I loosened it... put some thread lock on... and torqued it back up as hard as I could with a similar sized breaker bar. It has stayed tight for about 18 months now thankfully.
Sorry so late. I'm glad it worked out for you.
I got the BD diesel track bar I do get a pop on a turn and dip sometimes but vary rare. I highly recommend the BD diesel track bar and I had a feeling it was the track bar.
Man this all sounds so familiar. I'm trying this asap. This is the second time I'm hearing this
I’m glad I ran into this video, I just bought a 2019 F250. Only has 360mi on it & I heard that popping sound driving around the Home Depot parking lot. Thought it was my tires rubbing. It’s a stock pickup. I’m gonna have to go back to the dealership & have them tighten those track bars.
How did it end up working after the fix ?
Just got a 2020 f350 has a rattle noise aswell it’s stock so it couldn’t be the tires rubbing . What ended up being your problem?
Any luck ?
Well, after talkin to my dad he told me to check the hub locks. My passenger side hub was unlocked(free) & my driver side hub was between unlocked & locked. So I finished turning it to the unlocked(free) position & the noise went away.
There is a torque spec on that bolt. It is over 400 ft. lbs, maybe 450 if I remember correctly.
nice video bud, prayers for your father in law.
Chris Brewton I appreciate it.
I just ordered a Cognito track bar and it should fix the ball joint issue on my 2017 f250 look into that if you have problems it’s made for heavy duty trucks!
Yeah I have a 2019 f350 with a Zone 6 inch lift and I hear popping plus it feels loose. Fox shocks that are now 2 years old. I run 37's with wide wheels
Check bushing on track bar on chassis end. Mine was off centered. Put it back in place with a rubber mallet
No one likes a “one size fits all” approach to problem solving, and neither do l, but I need to share experiences of two Ford F-250 owners that I know personally, and their outcomes. First a little background on all three of us.
We are professional RV haulers that travel coast to coast delivering campers, RV’s and 5th wheel campers from manufacturers to retail stores. All of us have driven in every possible on-road condition imaginable, whether loaded or “dead-heading.” (Not pulling a trailer) All of us put SUBSTANTIAL mileage on our F-250’s, far more than the average/typical owner. For example, in my case I put almost 100K miles on my 2018 F-250 between May ‘19 and December of last year. That’s 100,000, not 1,000 or 10,000 miles, and those numbers are typical for all three of us. I replace my tires approximately every six months and change my engine oil 1-2 times each month. None of this is braggadocio, but a way of letting you know that when anyone in this industry talks of products for our trucks, whether OE or aftermarket, it’s based on many miles of service. It goes without saying that if our wheels aren’t turning, we aren’t earning...
The dreaded “death wobble” hit in varying degrees with one of the trio experiencing such debilitating front wheel shaking that he was ready to trade in his ‘19; F-250 after just three months, with just 26K miles. Before he did that on the advice of a Les Shwaub tire store employee( not a plug, just a fact) he swapped out of his Goodyear Wranglers (OE) to another brand. The front end shake stopped immediately and did not return. The other member of this group experienced the wobble but in a less severe form. He too switched away from Wranglers to an unknown imported tire with the exact same results...the wobble stopped completely. In my case I started off with a truck that did not have Goodyear Wranglers but came with Firestone Transforce H/T‘s. Again, not a commercial, just the facts. I have NEVER had Goodyear Wranglers on my F-250 and I have NEVER experienced death wobble.
What does any of this concretely prove? Nothing. But where there’s smoke, there’s usually fire and none of us will ever use Goodyear Wranglers on our SD’s. Just my (our) experience...
Thanks for the advice, looking at a 2019 f250. Nervious about the death wobble. Its all stock. Gonna take it for a test ride
My 15 is doing the same. Pop in the front during low speed turns when hitting bumps. Ford can’t find it. Said they’ll put the chassis ears on it. When the weather is better I’m gonna try this. Thank you.
Get it fixed? Sounds like my truck right now
One thing guys are doing to get rid of the "death rattle" is to give it more caster. More than the specs. Imagine pushing a shopping cart at a fast pace and the front wheels start wobbling. Thats whats happening to the front wheels
Yep common issue on the bds lifts big time from ford and ram both.
THANKS Mine is doing the samething. I thought I got a Limmmmon.THANKS
told yah it was the trackbar! mine is torqued to 410 ft/lb just to be safe. anyway nice to hear its all good now! =)
DHiller Oh man, my bad for not giving a shout out to you as well. Thank you as well for pointing me in right direction. It's amazing that around a 1/4 to a 1/3 turn could make such a difference.
Bilstien shocks will help with body roll the 2 inch spacer causes body roll some guys don't use a spacer they buy 2 inch lift springs instead
Hey man just checking in making sure the truck is doing good. Just finished up my carli kit on my personal 2017 and learned a little more about the +17 front ends
Everything is going well I guess. My dealership changed the upper drag link for me but didn't change the ball joint at the knuckle. It's better as far as the clanking feeling goes but it's still there. My alignment shop adjusted my toe and it made a world of difference. That actually shocked me. How do like the Carli kit?
Jason Kubitz I love the carli kit. Went with full deaver leafs. Did you by chance get your camber adjusted? My carli kit came with 2.5* shims and that made a world of difference in the tracking of the front end after the leveling kit
I have the same setup. My track bar was loose, tightened it but still have a clunk sound when i hit bumps or on a rough road. Sounds like a busted strut ( i know it doesn’t have struts)... i can feel it in the floorboard and steering!?
@@adamgauthier7570 It's more than likely your ball joints. Mine are still rattling like crazy. Upper and lower drag links.
Jason Kubitz the crazy thing is i only have 4000 miles!!
Yup if your gonna drive a truck like that you should know how it works and aftermarket stuff will loosen up and has to be tighten up or replaced now and then am gonna post a kinda in depth video on this soon 🔴🇺🇸🔧👍
This is my first solid front axle so it's a bit of learning curve. The basics are there though. I do all of my own maintenance just because I don't trust anyone else.
FordTech.....I have had so many problems with Death Wobble on my 2017 F-250 since new. It has been in the shop 4 times and basically every front end component on it has been replaced by the dealer. Prior to the 4th time, it was completely stock. No lift, no leveling kit, nothing. After the last time in the dealer and the so called new and improved, track bar and stabilizer replaced, the DW started a few days later. I installed the PMF Dual Steering Stabilizer and have not experienced DW since.. Ford obviously knows about this issue or they wouldn't be swapping out parts and playing around with band aids to fix this issue. Us owners have had to seek out aftermarket fixes for this when their own engineers can't seem to come up with a permanent fix.
I’m having a similar problem on my 2023 F250 Tremor. Carli suspension backcountry, it’s Shaking at 70-77 mph and knocking over small bumps and curbs
Sorry to hear that. I think Ford uses the cheapest end links so the only solution is the aftermarket world. Apexchassis.com makes some really good stuff. Unfortunately, it comes with a hefty price tag. I've already changed my end links twice within 70K miles with Motorcraft stuff. They started rattling almost right after I put them on.
HA!!!! I had the same issue with the track bar drop bracket. However I installed it myself so I don't have anyone to blame. I could have made the same exact video. I ended up backing the nut off adding some locktite and re torqueing. I don't have a torque wrench capable of the 400 or so foot pounds needed so I did exactly what you did and just used a small breaker bar. I put a video up of my loose track bar on the Ford truck forums. FTE
jaycarneygiants Right on man. It seems like these track bar bolts loosen up pretty quick. This was happening a little when it was stock too. I will try the locktite too since this damn bolt seems to loosen a bit after about 100 miles or so. Thanks for the tip.
Mine seems to have responded to the locktite. It's been a couple weeks or so and so annoying clunking yet.
jaycarneygiants I will have to do that. I just took my trailer to a local campsite and mine started rattling again. Not clunking but definitely rattling. I also noticed these BDS tuned Fox Shocks don't do good when towing. My truck is all over the place when the road is bad. I might have to just go Carli in the near future.
Jason Kubitz did you locktite it? And if you did, did it stay tight?
Check your passenger side tie rod ends both mine went out along with track bar ball joint
I too am getting a rattling feeling in driver floor board and through the steering wheel. Ive checked my hubs and upper and lower ball joint numerous times and seem tight as could be every time. Has anyone narrowed down exactly whats causing it? Im going to put my Milwaukee 1/2” impact on track bar bolt. I had a PMF track bar already and replaced it with stock in hopes that was the issue and no luck.
Drag link
You guys think getting an adjustable track bar instead of using this relocation bracket will resolve the issue of it coming loose?
I know the BDS kit at first didn’t come with the bracket for the 2” kit and now it does, but I’m wondering if this is the culprit.
hollywoodbush I want to say yes. The BDS bracket has some sort of eccentric adjustment built in. That may be the problem since the bolt can essentially slip around in that eccentric causing it to wiggle loose. The Roush F250 has a stock looking bracket with a stock looking track bar. I'm assuming this was engineered by the Roush team. I think they only have 1.5" lift so it may be all standard F250 stuff though. All I can say is this is driving me nuts.
Jason Kubitz have you tried contacting Carli Suspension out in Lake Elsinore? I’ve looked at some of their products for Super Duty 2017+ and they do offer an adjustable track bar.
hollywoodbush They do have some nice stuff but I am kind of on a budget since I will be buying a 2018 rzr xp4 turbo before desert season. If I get fed up with BDS, I will possibly consider Carli in the near future.
Didn't happen to be the off-road shop on I-45 South by Cabela's in League City? Cause I went there and was not impressed with the person behind the counter. He had to finish texting before he could even acknowledge I was there and they had mini displays that only showed partial items and no prices and really nothing on the shelves. This was Dec 2020. I won't be going back. I literally walked in and made 1 lap after I was ignored and less important than a text msg with his bro or something
I hate suspension shops. Forrest Tire in Carlsbad NM put my BDS springs upside down and tried explaining how theyre designed to be that way. Up until i called bds and asked them which way the tighter coils go infront of them😂
Jason, thanks for putting these videos up. Do you still recommend this leveling kit? I'm about to pull the trigger on a kit, and was hoping to get your updated opinion. Cheers. J
Sorry I never replied. I just swapped out my BDS spacer for Icon 2.5" springs and Fox FRS 2.5 with DSC adjusters. The lot in this video is average.
I just noticed my 2 month old 2019 doing that at low speeds, hope this is all it is!
Unfortunately, it will probably get worse. My dealer already replaced the ball joint on my track bar but that is loose again. My other two ball joints are rattling just as bad. It is more pronounced in warmer weather. I was in a forum for a while on this issue and a guy just went and bought all new Motorcraft balls joints and he hasn't looked back. I think the FoMoCo balls joints the dealer uses are junk. Moog will probably be better too. It is truly annoying.
has you ever had any problems with it aside from just annoying noises?
@@johndoe-bk3de No safety issues at all. It's just annoying. Alignment is still true and the tires wear evenly.
Hi Jason any updates on your f250 suspensión issues? My just started it doing it.
2017 f250 4 wheel drive with 48k miles. I am planning to call the dealer tomorrow any suggestions on what to said thanks!
@@protectoservices The dealer replaced a few ball joints but that didn't stop the steering wheel from shaking. It did stop the rattle though. What changed everything was a very good alignment guy named Jesús. He knows these trucks like the back of his hand. Find yourself a good alignment guy and you will be amazed how much of a difference a tiny adjustment makes. Good luck.
I had a similar problem. You need about 400 ft/lbs on that bolt.
Ya, I got a 3/4" drive breaker bar and gave her hell lol.
@@jasonkubitz9410 One would need to pull that breaker bar at approx. 258 lbs of force to get to a little over 400ft lbs. www.sensorsone.com/force-and-length-to-torque-calculator/
@@bobsmith-bw3io easiest way to help? get the breaker bar in position that you can utilize a floor jack to assist. You'll easily be able to torque it enough at that point. Just be very cautious, when using a jack like that you can produce a lot of energy.
After getting a dual steering stabilizer, my death wobble is gone
Question I just lifted my 2017 F250 6 inches I put new 22” rims with 37” tires now every little bump I get a raddle and I can feel it in my feet on the drivers side you think it might be the same problem?
I would start with the ball joints. The factory ball joints are trash. I've had my drag link ball joints replaced by the dealer twice and they still rattle through the peddles and the floor board. I've heard motorcraft is better over factory for some reason. I've learned to just tune it out lol.
Jason Kubitz I just replaced the tie rods and the tracker bar to the double shock type it’s still doing it even on nice roads meaning no pot holes im starting to regret lifting the truck
@@_Pat1984_ Check the radius arm drop brackets. I'm assuming they had to be dropped for your lift. Sometimes aftermarket shocks have heim bushing and you will never get away from the rattle with those.
Jason Kubitz ok thanks for all your help I’ll keep you updated man I appreciate ya 👊💯
Jason Kubitz you were right it was the balljoint on the track bar thanks so much for your help
🤘🤘
Replace the bushing that bolt goes through. Tightening it is only a temporary solution.
Once you run that bolt loose the polyurethane in the bushing behind it has taken a beating.
When I did my lift, that bolt is spaced to be at 450 ft/lbs of torque. I can pretty much guarantee your no where near that spec with that little breaker bar.
I have that bar a good amount of muscle. I used my feet on the tire as leverage. I confirmed I was good when I brought it my alignment shop. I still have no issues with it and have towed my toy hauler with my Polaris RZR XP4 Turbo and my quad in the bed. I was at almost max GVWR on my trailer and 200 lbs under max on my truck payload. I take crazy beat up dirt roads to get back to the spot we camp at the desert. If you have fillings, they would fall out of your mouth after taking the roads I drive on. Still not one issue. This breaker bar will work as long as you're strong enough to get behind it.
@@jasonkubitz9410 2002 1100 ya.maha vstar custm
@@jasonkubitz9410 yes you can get 400 with a bar because I'm a little guy 5'8 170 and I can get 300 on a bar your size
@@kenj.8897 Yup. Let's just say I haven't touched it since I torqued it down when I made this video. Still solid as a rock.
Great video. Do you have the caster bushings installed also?
Yes sir. I had my alignment shop put in what they deemed best. I went for several test drives until I was happy. It's always good to have a shop that works with you.
Jason Kubitz Thkks for the quick reply. I just had a 2.5 Icon coil kit installed and I’ve got the same issues. However, I forgot to check to see if the caster bushings were installed when I picked it up and they were not. So I’m heated with my local shop. Hoping it fixes my issues.
@@kornfed383 Some kits come with them and some don't. Make sure you verify everything that was included in your kit and raise hell if they were suppose to put them on. I gave up on my offroad shop. My alignment shop wasn't surprised lol. If I keep my truck I'm going with a Carli commuter kit and having my alignment shop install it so I know it's done right. 4 wheel parts does a great job at installs but won't install Carli or BDS since they can't sell it. Liability issues I guess.
It did come with them however they were not installed. So the shop said they would install them and have it re-aligned free of charge. But that’s the way it should’ve been the first time. Other than that issue I’m very happy with the ride and feel of the icon coil’s and shocks. Made a very big difference on my 18 f350. Carli stuff is amazing but pricey too
@@kornfed383 Oh I see. It's still a PITA to keep going back. I'm glad you like the ride. I might try your kit next instead of Carli. You are right about it being pricey lol. BDS is too soft in the front for me.
Whats the name of your front bump stops and where to purchase?
These are the stock bump stops in this video. I now have an Icon 2.5" spring with their bump stop drop bracket due to the shock body length on my new Fox FRS 2.5" shocks. Lost a bit of up travel but I'm going to make a custom drop bracket soon. Better ride with the new springs and shocks for sure.
I feel the same thing but i dont have the popping noise it feels like ball joints were worn out i will try this tomorrow i hope it helps my truck is a 17 with only 20,000 miles
I hope this works for you. Mine was like this because the offroad shop didn't tighten it all the way.
I was always under the impression that taking your truck to the mechanic would ensure a better quality job than what I could do at home. Turns out the opposite is true. If you plan on keeping your vehicle for its entire life span, you’d better buy some tools and familiarize yourself with them.
Quality and pride are completely gone these days. As long as they get paid, that's all that matters. I have a pretty decent tool collection but there's always that one job that requires you to head to the store for that special tool. Just adds to the collection.
Will u add airbags for the rear for additional support?
I already did actually. I just haven't had time to make a video on them. I got the airlift kit but no compressor yet. They ride ok at the recommended 5 PSI when unloaded. They definitely make the ride solid when loaded up though. I can put my quad in the bed now with the trailer hooked up now. No more porpoising. I'm not exceeding my payload at all but I definitely recommend airbags for any towing with a 3/4 ton truck. They just make everything feel more solid.
The guys at that shop could’ve torqued it, just because you can put your body into an oversized wrench and move it doesn’t mean it’s not torqued
Very true but I've torqued a lot of bolts around this spec I know it's roughly around where it needs to be. I could go and have a shop actually check it but no need. I actually changed my lift kit since then and put an adjustable track bar on. I used my same method I used in this video and I have zero issues. I have 75K miles on the truck. I had the same arguments with QA when I was an Instruments mechanic for the DoD. Some specs from the factory were for the artisan to "feel" the end play. No quantative measurement could be obtained from that application. I this is not apples for apples but once your feel a certain way of doing things, you just know.
You cat put in the F-350 spring pack or just buy the 350 next time
Dual stabilizers will make the front end even more solid. Works great on mine
I might try that next. My co-worker has the gas version of this truck and he did dual stabilizers with stock wheel and tires. He said it made a world of difference.
Y'all want to know a little Ford hack...
Don't buy one of them stupid 3in" leveling kits"... Go to your loca salvagel yard and get you some front coil springs out of a f-450 or an f-550.. thank me later boys... Oh and for the rear use stock cast iron blocks I believe the 4/5 in while you're at the salvage yard grab some stock 3 in cast iron blocks off a 2wd earlier model year.. 👍👍👍 it'll get you up there without spending much extra money and it's a hell of a lot better ride than those janky ass leveling kits
Sounds like a stiff ride to me. I have Icon springs now with Fox Race Series 2.5s. I will never go back to stock. Rode in my buddy's stock F450 empty and it's a rough ride for sure. I like the thought process of using salvaged parts though. I'm not really worried about the money and if I was, I wouldn't own this truck.
That needs to be torque to 408 pounds
3/4" drive breaker bar and cheater is all you need. Well, good knees and shoulders too lol. Most people don't have a torque wrench that goes above 300 ft lbs so a good tug with the above tools and it's good to go.
Duel stabilizer kit will fix your issue.
The video was too long winded!
Dude lost me when he kept going on and on about unrelated topics.
Well your first problem is your in a Ford. Found On Road Dead.
Really dude? That's what you've got to add.
He is just looking for attention cause his pink Volkswagen bug won’t start