7.3L Powerstroke Cold No Start Diagnosis- Glow Plug Relay
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- You can buy the new relay here-
www.amazon.com/...
The #1 reason a 7.3l will not start cold, followed by a close second being stiction issues with the HEUI Injectors.
In this video we show how to test the Glow plug Relay for proper Operation.
Ford Motorcraft Glow Plug Relay Part# DY861
Watched this video, checked mine, replaced mine......first cold start with out being plugged in. This makes life so much better! Nice video man!
Absolutely insane to pay $80-$130 for that relay when it’s the exact same relay that used for the starter. They charge more because they can call it a glow plug relay and not a starter solenoid
As I do agree it's not built the same. I did that the first time and burned it up pretty fast. starter relay is not able to handle the juice for that long of a time. But O'Reilly had a relay for like 25 bucks instead of 15. That works really well.
Ah yes......the somewhat culprit of about a 4 month ongoing problem I have had with my 2002 F-250 Super Duty with the 7.3L Power Stroke diesel. Starting about 4 months ago my Diehard Gold batteries were getting old. They were 8 years old, so I replaced them. Fast forward about a month later and my charge warning light would come on within the first minute or two after starting and stay on for about another minute before going out. Maybe a week would go by before it would do it again. This stopped about a month ago. Last week I started blowing fuse #22 which is a 20 amp micro fuse when you first turned the key. Relay 303 clicked very violently and loud after #22 shorted out. Change the fuse, it would start and be good to go until another 3-5 days went by. The same problem, the same solution. I am a full time licensed HVAC technician with 14 years experience. I'm also a amateur mechanic and classic car enthusiast after hours and on the weekends. I have a '65 Mustang 289 K-Code V8 4 speed coupe. I'm not dumb, so my training told me wires frayed and shorted to something or a bad connection somewhere. I just had to find out where. That SOB left me setting at our shop after work today. Only this time wouldn't hold the fuse and kept blowing instantly. I bet I blew 6 of them before I quit. Ok, well...let's open the hood and take a look. After about 30 minutes of searching (with luck), I happen look at the glow plug relay and see that hot wire that comes from your battery (the one with the rubber boot) with the boot old and cracked. I pull it aside and see it's all corroded on the terminal, nut and wire connector loop underneath. Ok, so I unhook both negative battery terminals and remove that positive wire from the glow plug relay and clean it up with a small wire brush we use for cleaning furnace flame sensors and burners with. I cleaned everything...post, nut, wire connection loop....everything until it shined. I reassemble and reconnect the negative terminals on the battery. Next comes a new 20 amp fuse in slot #22. I'll be gone to hell....FIRE IN THE HOLE!! It was instant and also the truck runs smoother and feels like it gained some lost HP I was slowing losing over the last 4 months or so.
Point being....MEN....check that if your truck won't start. It worked for me and saved me a lot of money.
Thanks for this. New powerstroke owner and was having issues with my 99 f350 7.3L not starting if it wasn't plugged in. I had already changed the glow plugs (it needed it anyways) and have done a ton of regular maintenance on it. It had a fairly new GPR but after watching this, I tested it and found out it was bad and possibly wired wrong when the PO installed it. Put a new FORD GPR in, tested and left it overnight for the true test. For the first time since i've had it (3 months) it started in the morning without being plugged in.
That's great to hear, nice!
So what's the pcm ground supposed to be??? Ground all the time or only when or if????
i would think it involves time or temp to shut off?
Stancor relay is a heavy duty replacement compared to the OEM and costs about +/- $20. Better than OEM. At least in my experience. ;)
Agreed
You must mean the Stancor costs +/- $20..(more than) OEM relay. Or if you know where the Stancor's are for $20 +, let us know..i need a truckload.
Question, if the relay is bad could that only affect some of the glow plugs? Or all? I was told plugs 1 and 4 are bad.
It would be all or non.
yep ive been cheap and bought the $40 napa ones they maybe last a year or two then just fail when you need them the most...winter. I'd also say disconnect the batteries when you do this because you'll have the full power from the 2 of them on the hot side and you defiantly don't want that hitting anything.
Thanks!
Buy an OEM Ford relay? Man are you mixed up big time you will not get one single season out of an OEM glow plug relay in cold temps I am speaking from experience having four 7.3 trucks in my corral.. Get a Stancor and be done with it.
Holy crap, I thought that was the open door key in ignition buzzer LOL
Iv got a 99 f250 an cold or hot weather it wont start with key something but it a 6 speed an if I roll start it off it stay running an run good all day but seeing this I'm try the relay an go from there
Ok so i have a 1999 f350 7.3l and one morning it was cold and wouldnt start (the check engine light was on and the code said low voltage to the left bank and right bank) so i changed my relay and it started better than ever. (Check engine light went out) i turned the truck off did some grocery shopping and came out and it started but the check engine light came back on and the codes are reading the same thing “low voltage to left glow plug bank and right glow plug bank. Truck still starts no problem but the check engine light is irritating. Im wondering if the guy i bought it from has the small wires turned around. Is there a way to tell which small wires go to what terminal?
I have 328,000 miles on my 2001 7.3L F350 Ford dually l bought new. I do carry a new ford relay, just in case. After watching this I think I'll put the new one on. Eighteen years is pretty good for the original. Thanks for the tips on testing. Maybe I should change the intake heater relay as well.
True story: I watched this video yesterday, first off my Brother In Law's truck F250 HD has had problems for 4 years that I know of, I've been a Mechanic most of my life also My brother (YEARS) we have changed his Glow Plugs, changed his Starter (dragging bad) changed his Batt(s) twice, changed his Alt. it tested bad, He called me and said his Batt was dead again and could I stop by and look at them, it's Cold here now so I thought maybe Relay /solenoid ,, nope all tested good, then I did a Neg amp draw test on each batt, and I noticed the hood light was bright with left Batt VERY dim on right bat test, Guess what I found?????? the right Batt's ground wasn't even bolted to anything just laying on the frame>>> I never thought in a million years his ground wasn't bolted down,,,LOL sure started great after I fixed that...LOL.. maybe I finally got it! again thanks to this video I looked somewhere else I found the real problem,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Who KNEW?????
good work
Just tested my gpr. When the key is in the "on" position, both sides seem to stay hot. I'm thinking that indicates a bad relay and is the reason why it has a hard time starting and seems to not have enough juice to crank over for 30 seconds or so.
i know this is an old video, but i was wondering if you've ever seen a problem where the computer doesnt send the ground signal to close the relay. ive changed the engine oil temp sonsor thinking that it may be that but i still have to put a jumper from ground to the comp signal to get the solenoid to work. thanks
did you ever figure out --- having same issue and i too replace oil sensor --- still having issues
good question. seems like the pcm would have logic that involved a timer and temp sensor
Looking at a 03 7.3 . Guy sent a cold start video and it took 4 cycles to start cold. He said GPR is 3k old same with new injectors. Glow plugs are 20k old. Guys say it’s possible to get a bad GPR. Others say it could be the hpop not delivering oil fast enough. More common a plug / relay problem? Or hpop? It starts right up when it’s warm.
Great video, thank you . ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks for the informational video! Hopefully this corrects my issue. I don't really feel like taking the valve covers off! Also, thank you for not going into bullshit detail about what is going on in your personal life. Too many videos I have watched people talk about their friends and parents and shit. I just want to know about my issue. Great video man.
I have good glow plugs and relay still won’t start at times. Plugged the block heater than it starts. And it isn’t that cold were I live. Would you shim the aperture if it’s out of spec
Why would I not have power on either terminal but when I have the ignition in the on position, I have full 12 volts on both sides?
Did this started right up. Mechanic said it was the hpop yeah its cold guy seemed sketchy. Saw your vid made sense me and my wife tried this and boom started right up thanks
Where is the Glow Plug Relay located an a 2003 7.3 E350 Econoline van? Thx.
Or get one from the part store for like $20 with a lifetime warranty. I got mine from O'Reilly about 8 years ago and only had to replace it once.
I’ve got a 2002 Ford 7.3. She’s got roughly 290k miles on her. The truck has literally been through hell and back. I live in Alaska so it gets pretty cold come winter. Well here it is in October and this year is no exception. The temperature just started reaching freezing and my truck doesn’t want to start unless I leave it plugged in. I did the glow plugs several years ago but maybe only put about 20-30k miles on the new set. If the truck is not plugged in the truck just won’t start and pours out a bunch of white smoke while cranking my battery life away to no avail. When I first replaced my glow plugs I remember it reach well into -17 one night and the truck started with no issues without being plugged in on a remote job I was working. After watching this I’m going to try swapping out the relay. I’ll update with the results.
Did the new relay work?
Did it work?
We need an update man
Good video and thanks for pointing out the price/warranty difference in the parts, good advice.
No problem!
thanks for the information.i have a problem
I put a new glow plug relay and crank but it doesent start i test the new glow plug relay and it failed and the wait to start lamp doesent show what step is next ? thank you.
Which year vehicle? You say the new one failed? Have you followed my steps in the video to test each output and input on the glow plug relay?
is a 1999 ford f 350 7.3 power strok..this morning Ichecked the fuse panel the one that is inside in the truck and the fuse # 30 .was burned and I replaced it and I solved the problem.thank you for everything
Ok so you need to replace your fuel heater inside the fuel bowl. They rot and arc out inside and blow that fuse.
Ummm you never discuss what happens when there is no power on the big side lud not battery side.. bc that is the issue I'm having
Why no check on the PCM lug? Doesnt it go from ground to hot or hot to ground?
I don’t get a click from the glow plug relay does that mean it’s not the relay and I have another issue ?
Hi Jason. Is it possible for the GPR to act intermittent? Also, if the internal contacts were burned perhaps not feed full current to the glow plugs? Thanks for all the informative videos.
I have a 1996 f250 7.3, I tried starting it after 2 weeks of sitting and I turn the key it just clicks but no turn over, so I tried it on the starter solenoid and it turns over very slowly. what should I do?
Charge and/or replace your batteries and then test your alternator
You said you was going to check each connector on the relay but it don't seem like you check the ground terminal
My truck 99 F-250 7.3 does not have power in the injectors?
ground control to pcm check-how to-continutiy from the wire while unplugged?
relay control side-"only when key is on engine running only"-i didnt hear your engine running
thank you
-Fred
I think he was saying the other terminal will he hit when the cars key is in the on position. Your cars key could be in the on position when the car just has the key in the on position or your car could have the key in the on position when the key is in the on position AND the car’s engine is running. I don’t think he wants you to look for a hot voltage when the key is in the start (crank) position.
----- READ THIS BEFORE YOU BUY A NEW RELAY!!! ----- I realized I was testing my relay at close to running temperature. BIG MISTAKE! make sure your motor is all the way cold since the relay won't activate when it doesn't need to at warmer temps. i believe you can disconnect the coolant temperature sensor if you can't wait for the motor to get cold. I'm going to wait til tomorrow morning to test out the new relay I installed today.
Hey Jason I'd love to make a reply to that but you know I'm and in Samsung no date in the voice to text just doesn't fucken work as you can tell
would be nice to know the logic behind the ground to the pcm wire? i heard it is triggered on/off by the oil temp sensor.(seems like a timer must be involved too?).... i assume ¥ou could bypass the logic by just removing the pcm wire and grounding that post for a minute or two. wish makuloco had explained the pcm logic
Update 5-5-15:
The problem with the 20 amp micro fuse in slot #22 blowing and relay 303 clicking violently reoccurred several times since my last post. After several attempts of no start and immediately blowing the 20 amp fuse, I took a gamble that the glow plug relay had a dead short to ground. I headed over to O'Riley's to order a genuine Ford Motorcraft glow plug relay last night and just picked it up this afternoon after work. After I installed the new relay and cleaned up all four terminals and applied some dielectric grease....once again FIRE IN THE HOLE!!
I think I got it this time.....
Okay watch the video got the key off and the test light on the battery hook to the go plug side and it is still hot and the keys off
Go to 2:40 to see a good troubleshoot of it.
Thanks for posting it, Good video keep em coming. Keith, i'll be posting a slideshow on how to do an emergency repair on these relays until you can get a new one. I'll link it here when I get it done. Keith
Did it and and no luck changed glow plugs , still turning over no crank.
No crank or no start? Does it only not start cold.
Much better video and explaining the procedure than I have seen on other sites.
thanks
I have a 97 7.3 that wont stay running starts then idles then lopes and dies. Give it a little while it starts does the same thing idk maybe bad fuel has newer fuel filter and its kinda cold but nothing crazy also added some diesel thaw but didnt help
I've got an 01, when I cycle the key the start light goes off, it'll crank and start but blows quite a bit of white smoke for a min or 2, then it's fine. Relay? glow plugs? (it was 37F this morning)
jeff drier It can be either but at that temp I would say the relay is working and a couple plugs are open. Follow my test to find out.
When I tested the relay, It was slightly lower than the Bat volts. I'm planning on changing out the plugs in the fall. Its got 190,000 mi on it.
have a 2002 F-250 7.3L. I have changed the batteries, glow plug relay, and the starting motor and I still can't get my truck started. Do you think I may need to check or change the glow plug control module?
If you have a glow plug relay there is no control module. Few things is there plenty of oil in the engine to feed the High pressure pump? Is there fuel pressure? It cranks fine right plenty fast?
How do you wire it up if you don't have a wiring harness.
Thank you, it was very helpful
SUBSTANTIAL FordTechMakuloco
Tutorial thank you 👍
God bless you and have great day 👍
FordTechMakuloco
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Hello been watching you're videos... I own a 97 ford f250 power stroke diesel with 7.3 my truck isn't running it turns over and the dash light says water in fuel filter now first I drained it that didn't work... so I put a new fuel filter in that didn't work I unplugged that fuel bowl heater sensor that did nothing I just changed out the glow plug relay didn't wrk!!! Still says water in fuel ... idk what else to do? I'm a single mom obviously dont have the money to even tow the damn truck.. I did notice when I drained the fuel bowl completely it's not filling up with fuel I had to pour fuel into the bowl??? Is it my fuel pump lifter??? Or fuel pump in my tank? I'm at a loss and can't keep spending money and fixing things that are not broke lol please help any advice was be greatly appreciated 🙏
Why did you say what the wire goes to pcm do ??????
Great video, it helped getting my 1994 short bus running!
Got a issue now where the main constant battery cable has power but the side terminal for the glow plugs does not. Any suggestions. Thanks
I have a 2001 PS SD and just found my wire that’s on the bottom of the ignition solenoid was burned and chewed after replacing ipr and 2 alternators etc started looking for the secondary alternator dummy plug and found the GPR wire was melted etc how do I go about fixing it etc and would this effect the truck it’s a bitch to start have to jump it and even after 2 alternator swaps it won’t stay charging it’ll drop would the GPR being goofed have anything to do with that issues also ???
Great video. Informative and very invaluable information. Thank for taking the time...
Looking for help, recommendations, or resources. I have a Ford 1995 7.3 F250 manual with 150,000 miles. I have a starting issue. For the most part it is sporadic and happens when I cut off the truck and try to start it again after 10 or 15 minutes. It will turn off but doesn’t start. If I wait about 30 or 40 minutes it usually starts right up. I have had it not start a couple of time (one of which currently now), after sitting a few days. But for the most part it always starts after it sits for a day or more. The last time it didn’t start after sitting for awhile, it just started again a few days later. Any help tracking down the problem would be greatly appreciated.
Question, if the power goes from the key or ignition switch to the neutral safety switch. The why can you go to the glow plug relay and junp it off using a screw diver across the 2 large posts
Great video. I OWN A 1997 F 350 7.3 Power Stroke DUALY CREW CAB. i had my transmission rebuilt 2 yrs ago. It took the shop i brought to 3 mo. to do the trans. They used every excuses plus said my CPU needed to be replaced and programmed.. Any way i got it back finally but My truck when i come to a stop or a red light never starts off in 1st gear unless while i'm stopped i manually put it in 1st then in drive and then it shifts properly.If i come to another stop same routine. I am the original owner and have 164224.5 miles on it.
What the heck? I would never take it back to the trans. shop, ever.
Can you or someone you know please help me out? PLEASE
This was very helpful Thanks
I have a '97 F350 PSD. This morning I started the truck, was hard to start (cold morning), blew some white smoke. Started then died. Now the Wait to Start light does not come on, and it just cranks and cranks. Changed the fuel filter today as well. Last time I had it in the shop the mechanic said that I needed to replace the Fuel Sensor/Heater element connector and pigtail, and perhaps the H20 level sensor. Would these cause the Wait to Start light to NOT light up when the key is turned on, or would the GPR cause this? I'm really at a loss as to what to do.
Not sure if someone anyway asked, but I'd the output voltage supposed remain steady? I'm having cold start issues. I checked the output and I'm getting voltage, but it jumps up/down a lot.
hi can you do a video showing how to change the glow plugs. thanks
+Jesus Taveras No but once the valve covers are off they are right there very easy
For anyone interested in a no electrical power issue, no cab light, no crank, nothing. I just fixed my 96 7.3 and the glow plug solenoid by the fuel bowl had a burnout internally breaking the electric circuit i replaced this $30 part and she fired right up
I have a 96 f-350 with a 7.3 powerstroke and even with changing out the glow plug relay it will not hardley start in the am unless I give it a quick squirt of ether I have replaced the starter and the batteries can you tell me what else to look for or check as I don't like giving it the ether but a lot of the time thats the only wat to get it started and I am not sure what else to do and I can't afford to take it to ford to get fixed
You much check the glow plugs to make sure they are not burned out. I am sure during this cranking it is puffing while smoke right? Then your control for the glow plugs is bad or the plugs themselves.
Sharon Straw , I have the exact same problem with my 1997 F-350 powerstroke, I have to give it a shot of ether in the morning to start the truck, but once she is started and has been warmed up she will start all day no problem, I thinking it has to do with the starter relay or the glow plugs are not heating the cylinders enough, ps it will also start fine if plugged into to block heater over night, super annoying problem!!
+FordTechMakuloco h
I have a 97 I’m trying to figure out. The ground feeding the relay is intermittent. Does this come straight from computer? I’ve been told a couple sensors are permissives for computer to turn on relay?
great video 👍 subscribed
I have a 2001 7.3 diesel I have changed the relay but it still only cranks and won't turn over all I get is a click have also replaced starter and starter relay .What should I look at next ?
Is there smoke from the exhaust, white smoke wafting out while cranking?
FordTechMakuloco It won't turn over at all , or start all it does is click .
Shannon Sullivan Ok so the starter never turns is what you are saying so you have a no crank situation. So you need to make sure you have power at the main fat cable at the starter at all times. Then you need to check the small terminal for battery voltage when the key is turned to the start position. If it is not you then back tract from there to the starter relay on the fender.
Question I have a 6.9 just put new gloplugs and to me the timer looked to be working first key on stayed 8-10 seconds then on for 3 then off, het my glow plugs burned out in a week ? Any help with this? Thanks john
I have the same truck a 95 f350 7.3 and my glow plugs or relay went bad replacing all of it but plugged it in and it fired right up
I need help bad im sad i love this truck i got a 95 7.3l i got bad injectors ... Can yal help me and send me injectors i need my truck to work i do tile and im down on my luck .. Broke and can't make it to work
I have a 2001 F-350 super duty 7.3L diesal so I have replace the glow plug relay and now the WTS light will not come on but has crank but no start. So when I arch the glow plug relay with a test light the relay comes on even before I turn the key on the test light is also hooked up to the negative on the batter so when I arch the relay with the light it turns on it gums before I even turn on the key so when I turn on the key the WTS light is on so I wait for it to turn off the relay is still on start the truck it starts up but when it’s running when I remove my arm from the relay where I am arching the whole truck turns off what is going on
Sludged up in the injectors would it make the shakes and feel like a miss firing idle at 700 rpm and weak on high idle?
My 95 7🎄 starts in the coldest weather with out being plugged in.
How's that possible ?
@@peterscholte300 a mix between good glow plugs, starter, batteries injectors and compression
@@sethmichaelson6972 I think I need all of that 😆 anytime it's 40 or under I'm walking home
@@peterscholte300 lmao I have a 97 7.3 I never plug it in, check your glow plug relay it will save your ass and it’s 20 bucks at autozone
@@sethmichaelson6972 thanks I'll have to look into it
Hey HI there I watch this viedo and I see there's power on the main wire b/o but after I open the switch the glowplugs wires are geting real hot you know what can cause this ?
we used to get a stick with pice of rug and diesel fuel on it. then light it up and hold it by air filter tube. as another person cranks engine sucks hot air for better start. what is your thoughts on this
Dumb question... Where did you put the ground cable?
If the live lug reads 12.Xv and the output only has 10.Xv when key is on, does that signify bad GPR?
Does oem buzz as loud?
+sudilos117 no this one was odd.
what if you replace the relay and still doesnt work any recommendations on what to look at next
Did you test as shown in my video? So you are not getting voltage on the main positive side of the relay that feeds the glow plugs after the key is cycling on? Does it click on at least?
FordTechMakuloco
BigHoss7.31994ford350
I have a 94 7.3 and im not getting power to the constant hot that goes to my glow plugs relay
Do you have an idea why ?
Hello, and Thanks for the keen insights. I have a 96 7.3 DI .Started having issues when going up mountain pass cut out first time then killed next day at same incline. Started a couple more times and died when idling. Now will not start. and no smoke when turning over Changed filter and cleaned housing too. Just replaced GPR, old tested bad. Still will not start, ???
Have you made sure the fuel bowl is filling with fuel from the lift pump? After that I would make sure the second stage of the pump is pressurizing the fuel by cracking the line at one of the heads while cranks there should be a good fuel spray.
Thanks again, bowl does fill, where do the lines go in the heads?
bruce odem I pulled one line off the passenger side in the "middle " of the head but it was oil. ???
bruce odem Wonder of wonders, I plugged in the block heater when I cracked the "oil" ? line on the head and just went back to try and locate the lines from the pump and turned the key and it fired up and is running now. Our temps have been 32 for high and 22 low. for a week now. We are also at 3300 ft. elevation. What would you recommend for the best repair manual? I need details as no prior experience 1996 F250 7.3 di. I have 210000 miles and intend to keep, and replace injectors and glow plugs if necessary there are other issues lacks power runs rough sometimes??? We are VERY great-Full for your time and expertise !
bruce odem I had similar symptoms and it turned out to be the camshaft position sensor.
How about a big thank you.
What about having power to both large posts with key off?
I replaced my relay after testing the "out" terminal that goes to the glow plugs. after replacing it, I tested the new one and it was the same thing. I thought the new one might be a bad one, so I replaced it. the third one still had the same symptom. there was 12 volts coming in, but when the key was on and there should have been power at the terminal going to the plugs, there was nothing! anyone have any ideas?
Dod you replace your relay?
Just kidding, check the fuse
Hello. I have a Question, I just bought a 1999 Ford F 550 7.3 Turbo. It won't start cold but if I leave the ignition switch on for abt 3 to 5 minutes will start and the cuts off and start again, I have change ECU, crank sensor, fuel pump, and Glow plus relay.
What kind of oil are you using? I use to have a hard time starting a 2000 F250 when it was real col. Two years ago I started using Rotella T6 oil which is 5w40. That made a big difference.
Also, you might have some bad glow plugs.
How do you drop the tank to clean it from old desiel on a 93 F350
Hi I have 94 F250 with the 7.3l direct injected diesel. I just checked my glow plug relay it's putting out power but does not shut off when the "wait to start" light goes out and keeps putting out power, could this cause my glow plugs to burn out ? Truck won't start when it's cold it just cranks and cranks. Thanks
The glow plug relay works independent of the wait to start lamp so don't worry. In this system it will still turn on the relay for the same amount of time no matter if 2 glow plugs are working or 8. You need to check the glow plug resistance at the valve cover connector. They should be less than 2 ohms and are the 4 outside pins (2 on each side) on each valve cover.
I got a 7.3 2001 and its like 75 degrees here and i crank it and i see white smoke on exhaust i can also smell the diesel but it wont start..the gpr has 12.5 volts and the gp side has nothing and then the 2 small terminals have 12v and the supply goes to 0v can the no start be because of gpr
yes it will not start but simply smoke, change that sucker out.
So i just replaced my Gpr but the start light goes out and the gpr clicks off after 2 seconds. Lots of white smoke and doesnt start unless shes plugged in, in the cold. Any ideas?
Dodge?
what is ground control from the pcn?? I have f250 7.3 1994 and for some reason I have 3 contacts only there. one is in power the second is out and the third one is the one that goes to the starter??? I can post a picture. It is hard to understand what and where to connect.
Daniel Verenchook IDI or Turbo? I would post a picture on my Facebook page there should be no wire going to the starter motor.
thanks for the video, I have that problem I think, checking tomorrow
When you do this test with the multimeter where do you put the black probe? I'm electrically handicapped and I don't want to fry anything
I put mine right on the negative battery terminal
What is the relay for that is on the right side wheel well
Just cranks dont even try to fire even with either
I noticed that you only seem to focus on the Turbo 7.3 engines. Nothing about non turbo engines.
non turbo is idi-totally different engine and older...fewer on the road still maybe?
Would the car shut down while driving if the glow plug relay goes bad??
No
Would it start with either if that wasnt on at all
Was that relay causing a no start at room temp?
Yes it was a cold start concern I would say about 50 degrees outside, cranked and didn't even try to fire.
I have one that won't start at room temp. The glow plug relay is not working. No codes. Oil is well above 500psi. etc. I dident think it would need the glow plugs so bad after being in all night, I better see about getting a new relay now though.
Rory E Yes I was very surprised in the way this one acted and all it was is the GPR. It acted like there was no fuel.
I have a 1999 7.3,my wait to start light doesn't come on.won't start. I've changed the gpr out twice,battery connections,starter relay,and checked the fuses. I'm getting power to the gpr but none out and it doesn't make any noise,What should I try next,or do you think its possible I got another bad gpr?
Jason Guidry Are you getting power and ground to the small wires to turn on the GPR as shown in the video.
No,I am not getting power when the key switch is on and the wait to start lite won't come on. I've changed the IDM also,as well as both starter relay, and GPR.
Thanks
I have a 2002 7.3 I have crank no start problem I put a new CPS, ICP, IRP, fuel filter, and cleaned the EBPS out and the line, it's not cold out so I am not sure what else I need to do please help I can't afford to keep sinking parts into the truck but everything I was told to change out so far has not worked, I can start the truck with ether but will shut off almost right away??? Any ideas?
Did you find out what the problem was?
@@MeeN905 yes was the ECM it was located in the fender well so on big rain storms or puddles it was getting soaking wet, put a new one in and relocated it haven’t had an issue since!