Nigel Foster famous explorer, designer and instructor advocates edge first then sweep stroke followed immediately by the bow rudder. The sweep will help to get the stern to slide especially in a longer boat like my Valley Nordkapp. I'm not fond of the 45 degree bow rudder. I use the version where the blade is placed closer to the front hatch. I also allow my lower hand and the paddle to rest on the kayak which enables better control when moving at a higher speed.
Good video as always, I love that you always recommend getting instruction and mentorship. The question I hear most from my students is "why are we doing this instead of a sweep stroke(s)?" I think it's important for all kayakers to understand the most fundamental thing we are doing with this stroke is moving the pivot point of the kayak to a more forward position. This allows us to tactically use this stroke when we are in a cross-wind position, and desire to move in to an up-wind position. We use the wind force against the side of the kayak with a more forward pivot point to "drift" the kayak into an upwind heading. Or perhaps we want to drift the stern around an obstacle holding more of the position with our bow. I would encourage folks to look around at some of the top sea kayakers' bow rudder and notice their top hand position. Most tend to spend more time in front of their forehead and not as much over the shoulder. They tend to rotate more towards the stroke and lean forward to ensure the blade is forward of the hips and this lean also helps with trimming the kayak fore, and helping move that pivot point in the kayak more forward as well. It's not to say they won't occasionally blend in an "over the shoulder position" but most of the time I notice the paddle more in line and in front of their forehead. For me, getting a more vertical blade with a higher top hand allows me a deeper and more effective blade in the water (just like a high top hand on a stern rudder) and that position also allows me an easier transition to most next moves.
Thank you so much for such a detailed response. That makes a lot of sense. I think it’s interesting, when I was taught the move the top hand going over to the shoulder was mostly to force us to keep our elbow down for the top hand and keep the shoulder protected. I agree that I find myself moving that top hand around depending on what I’m doing - but when newer paddlers are learning it they often will get that elbow way up in the air along with the top hand. I remember for us it was about “checking the time” on your wrist as a reminder to keep that elbow down. Thank you again for the fantastic comment.
@@KayakHipster I was taught that way too. I completely agree about newer paddlers separating from that locked in feeling by not keeping low elbows. I think you can still focus on low elbows with a forehead height top hand. When I consider this move, I haven't ever really been concerned about or felt strain on the top hand shoulder. I have been concerned and felt strain on the bottom hand (water side) shoulder. One thing folks can experiment with is to try: the top hand in front of forehead, rotate your core aggressively towards the active blade side and lean a tad forward and then really pay attention to the strength of position of your active blade-side shoulder. Then repeat with the over the shoulder hand placement and assess the strength of position for your shoulder. If you can't feel or imagine strain in either placement then you could introduce mistakes that might happen, especially in bigger conditions: like losing balance to either side, catching the blade in a poor angle etc.. and decide what works best for your body mechanics overall, both in successful strokes as well as when things don't quite go according to plan:)
I remember that somewhere it was recommended to have the forearm in front of the forehead because if you have the forearm in front of your throat and the blade hits a rock it can give you quite a sudden push (never happened to me though with bow rudder). Maybe do a video and try both ways while hitting an obstacle...?
In bigger conditions, the bow rudder is generally the better option. It took me a long time to dial it and I try to make that easier as I teach it to new students. I find it far easier to do with the Greenland paddle and less rotation, better balance, and quicker transition to other strokes than the cross bow.
You can put the shaft over either shoulder, depending how much turning effect you want. It's a bit like selecting low gear or high gear. Also, you can fine tune & adjust the rate of turn on the fly by rotating the blade around the shaft to open or close the blade angle. This is better (more controlled) than allowing the blade to go wider or closed. If you go wide with the blade, this can quickly overload your body. flexibility
I use the bow rudder often when just messin' about on benign waters. It's fun to do for some reason and practicing skills is one reason to be out on the water (I don't know why I feel it I need a reason, or objective, but I kinda do). However, I've never felt that it is superior to a forward sweep when underway. I've paddled parallel to a rope line thinking that maybe it would turn the boat more towards the bow (e.g., if I had to dodge a tree stump). I'm not convinced that it is, but maybe. Still, I am looking forward to making sure I am incorporating these tips next time I am out and trying some more cross-bows as per your next video. By the way, nice locale. Where are you paddling? Catch any fish?
I find also you would get a far better paddle angle with goid body rotation. Sitting facing forward like innthe video with arm crossing the face is all very well in flat water but throw in some conditions and that's not a strong or effective paddle stroke .
Personally i find it less efficient to turn the kayak without losing momentum than the good old edged circular, but it shines in rock gardening when the circular is not possible because the paddle would hit the the rocks.
Nigel Foster famous explorer, designer and instructor advocates edge first then sweep stroke followed immediately by the bow rudder. The sweep will help to get the stern to slide especially in a longer boat like my Valley Nordkapp. I'm not fond of the 45 degree bow rudder. I use the version where the blade is placed closer to the front hatch. I also allow my lower hand and the paddle to rest on the kayak which enables better control when moving at a higher speed.
Accurate
Good video as always, I love that you always recommend getting instruction and mentorship. The question I hear most from my students is "why are we doing this instead of a sweep stroke(s)?" I think it's important for all kayakers to understand the most fundamental thing we are doing with this stroke is moving the pivot point of the kayak to a more forward position. This allows us to tactically use this stroke when we are in a cross-wind position, and desire to move in to an up-wind position. We use the wind force against the side of the kayak with a more forward pivot point to "drift" the kayak into an upwind heading. Or perhaps we want to drift the stern around an obstacle holding more of the position with our bow. I would encourage folks to look around at some of the top sea kayakers' bow rudder and notice their top hand position. Most tend to spend more time in front of their forehead and not as much over the shoulder. They tend to rotate more towards the stroke and lean forward to ensure the blade is forward of the hips and this lean also helps with trimming the kayak fore, and helping move that pivot point in the kayak more forward as well. It's not to say they won't occasionally blend in an "over the shoulder position" but most of the time I notice the paddle more in line and in front of their forehead. For me, getting a more vertical blade with a higher top hand allows me a deeper and more effective blade in the water (just like a high top hand on a stern rudder) and that position also allows me an easier transition to most next moves.
Thank you so much for such a detailed response. That makes a lot of sense. I think it’s interesting, when I was taught the move the top hand going over to the shoulder was mostly to force us to keep our elbow down for the top hand and keep the shoulder protected. I agree that I find myself moving that top hand around depending on what I’m doing - but when newer paddlers are learning it they often will get that elbow way up in the air along with the top hand. I remember for us it was about “checking the time” on your wrist as a reminder to keep that elbow down. Thank you again for the fantastic comment.
@@KayakHipster I was taught that way too. I completely agree about newer paddlers separating from that locked in feeling by not keeping low elbows. I think you can still focus on low elbows with a forehead height top hand. When I consider this move, I haven't ever really been concerned about or felt strain on the top hand shoulder. I have been concerned and felt strain on the bottom hand (water side) shoulder. One thing folks can experiment with is to try: the top hand in front of forehead, rotate your core aggressively towards the active blade side and lean a tad forward and then really pay attention to the strength of position of your active blade-side shoulder. Then repeat with the over the shoulder hand placement and assess the strength of position for your shoulder. If you can't feel or imagine strain in either placement then you could introduce mistakes that might happen, especially in bigger conditions: like losing balance to either side, catching the blade in a poor angle etc.. and decide what works best for your body mechanics overall, both in successful strokes as well as when things don't quite go according to plan:)
I remember that somewhere it was recommended to have the forearm in front of the forehead because if you have the forearm in front of your throat and the blade hits a rock it can give you quite a sudden push (never happened to me though with bow rudder). Maybe do a video and try both ways while hitting an obstacle...?
I believe the illustration shown is a cross bow rudder.
Btw; love your content
Cheers
I always found the bow rudder over complicated. I prefer the crossbow rudder, but I guess it is about finding what works best for you. Great video…
I use a Greenland paddle and I also find the crossbow rudder is much easier to execute.
In bigger conditions, the bow rudder is generally the better option. It took me a long time to dial it and I try to make that easier as I teach it to new students.
I find it far easier to do with the Greenland paddle and less rotation, better balance, and quicker transition to other strokes than the cross bow.
You can put the shaft over either shoulder, depending how much turning effect you want. It's a bit like selecting low gear or high gear.
Also, you can fine tune & adjust the rate of turn on the fly by rotating the blade around the shaft to open or close the blade angle. This is better (more controlled) than allowing the blade to go wider or closed. If you go wide with the blade, this can quickly overload your body.
flexibility
I use the bow rudder often when just messin' about on benign waters. It's fun to do for some reason and practicing skills is one reason to be out on the water (I don't know why I feel it I need a reason, or objective, but I kinda do). However, I've never felt that it is superior to a forward sweep when underway. I've paddled parallel to a rope line thinking that maybe it would turn the boat more towards the bow (e.g., if I had to dodge a tree stump). I'm not convinced that it is, but maybe. Still, I am looking forward to making sure I am incorporating these tips next time I am out and trying some more cross-bows as per your next video.
By the way, nice locale. Where are you paddling? Catch any fish?
I find also you would get a far better paddle angle with goid body rotation. Sitting facing forward like innthe video with arm crossing the face is all very well in flat water but throw in some conditions and that's not a strong or effective paddle stroke .
Personally i find it less efficient to turn the kayak without losing momentum than the good old edged circular, but it shines in rock gardening when the circular is not possible because the paddle would hit the the rocks.