WPL Bump Steer Fix

This is how I have fixed my steering bump issue. This is my first RC build and first WPL.
To achieve no issues with steering geometry the servo is best mounted onto the axle as the travel of steer will never influence the suspension and vice versa.
I however did not want to limit my suspension travel, you could rectify this by cutting away the servo tray and having more room, this is something I did not want to do.
The best way I found was to keep the linkages as parallel as possible to the lower steering linkage. If the steering arm is too angled it binds on the ball joints and influences the suspension.
I hope you like the video and find it useful!
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[@andreicoclici7816]

You can limit the servo end range from the wpl remote, open it up and add a bit of plastic to the lever that is lifted when turning the knob. Adjust the thickness so that the wheels do not rub. It's a pretty robust solution.

[@RyanNewton]

Great idea

[@DelDredd]

Similar issue on my C34KM, using Res 3 radio from WPL, servo seems to have far too much travel for the required steering movement.
I have fiddled about a bit with linkages, As I had plenty of 3mm screws and spacers from my Quads, I tapped the hole on the steering knuckle to 3mm and used a 20mm screw and spacer to raise the ball joint, made a new shorter servo to knuckle link. Works fine to the right but just gives too much movement to the left so the servo stalls out, that's without wheels on as well.
May try a link like your Z and put link onto a higher hole in servo to give less throw.
Not sure how the default setup supposed to work well at all without a radio you can adjust end points on, if it comes to it I will just use one of my programable FlySkys I use with planes and Quads.

[@RyanNewton]

Good luck, there’s a few work arounds, I think I’ve let it slide now and try to limit full lock, still need to find the time to finish painting

[@diesel4054]

There's no real fix to the servo/suspension "pull" issue and too much servo travel can't be adjusted with the WPL electronics (as you already know). Adding stops just means you jam your servo up against a hard point and it will eventually burn out of strip a gear. Geometry can get you part of the way there, but what you really need is a transmitter/receiver that has adjustable end points (EPA). I was using the wpl v3 soundkit and it was pretty good for what it is, but still no epa. I ended up ditching the stock electronics and went to a Hobbywing 1080 esc and a Radiolink R6GS. The HW ESC has multiple programmable features (drag brake, freewheeling, cutoff voltage, etc) and the Radiolink has more adjustments than you will ever need (has epa, which is what you need to "fix" the servo travel issue). I had to create my own electronics tray and 3d printed it on my cr10 printer, but there's at least one guy out there on etsy selling already printed tray for a c24 with a HW 1080. I just chose to build my own rather than buy it. I'm using the radiolink R6GS because it pretty good all around, has more adjust-ability than I'll likely ever use, it's pretty affordable and I can bind 10 different models/receivers to it. So only one radio to carry if I want to take multiple rigs out to play. Good luck and happy micro-wheeling.

[@RyanNewton]

Thanks for all the detailed info, I will probably go this way after something breaks, info much appreciated

[@Hjerte_Verke]

These WPL Land Cruiser kits already have better steering than the majority of RC crawler kits because they use a universal joint in the steering hubs
and not some 'dogbone' drive with limited angles. They are pretty darn good, so even if you don't get full lock where the steering components are
metal-on-metal and at full mechanical limits, it is still pretty darn good steering. Probably better than the 1/1 truck, lol
I toed in my front wheels slightly to make sure it tracks well in a straight line; I think excessive toe out cancels Ackermann steering...

[@RyanNewton]

Thanks for all the really cool info, yes for the price of the kits I was impressed, I’m still thinking of changing the steering a little now I have had a run with it, I just really don’t like the bonnet dipping whilst driving.
I don’t really want to mount the servo to the axle, it’ll have a rethink soon enough, thanks for your constructive advice, much appreciated 👍🏼

[@milanjacob6603]

I'm new into the hobby too, but I feel like you shouldn't push the servo horn manually with your hand ( this might be the reason why the gears have stripped but IDK), probably best to just use the transmitter to steer in the future. I think I have the same problem as you with the steering (I don't mind the bump steer), but the steering rod that came with the kit metal version doesn't make the wheels align properly unless I put them in the holes that aren't parallel (I'm pretty sure I have tried them in all the holes). There aren't many yt videos abt this and I don't really want to bend the rods, so I might just get the metal steering rod to fix it. I have the wpl c14 km myself but I think the most of these models are quite similar. Hope this helps!

[@RyanNewton]

If you mean the wheels point in different directions (tracking) then adjust the eyelets on the end of the rod and make it shorter/longer. Yes your right with the steering not to manually push, I did this as the servo was failed anyway

[@milanjacob6603]

@@RyanNewton The tracking problem is exactly my problem, but I have tried to adjust the eyelets and make them shorter and tightened them so hard my fingers start to hurt and to the point where you can't see the thread on the metal steering rod anymore but to no avail. It's a small thing but somehow so annoying haha. ah yeah fair enough.

[@RyanNewton]

So I assume your wheels are painting outwards if you need to shorten the linkage. Maybe do as I’ve done and make your own or maybe thread the original further and cut a bit of thread off so the rod doesn’t bottom out. Worst case if your ordering something drill out the eyes of needed, cut the rod and glue them at correct length?

[@milanjacob6603]

@@RyanNewton Yeah exactly I could do that thank you. Yup my wheels are pointing outwards if I put the rod into a "normal" position. The issue with cutting the rod for me is that I haven't got a grinder so might just have to buy the new steering rod. But cheers for the help anyway!

[@RyanNewton]

If there is more room to turn in, use a screwdriver (round shaft) through the eyes to help turn, save your fingers 👍🏼 good luck

[@andygrace3825]

think the links are 2.7mm, really odd size

[@RyanNewton]

Yeah they’re not quite m3