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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2025
- "De l'autre côté du ciel" is a crazy line from Fred Rouhling on les eau Claires crag. It's a spectacular roof with big impressive moves. The crux part is a twist on a two finger pocket on the middle of the roof.
I did this route during my Vintage Rock Tour.
Here is the sending / uncut footage filmed by Julien Nadiras.
Fun fact : broke a little part of a rib during the big cross over (to go on the two finger pocket).
Since the first ascent from Fred in 1995, not so much climbers tried this piece. I hope this video will give some motivation to try it :)
Truc de fou : selon son compte Insta, apparemment, Seb s'est cassé un bout de cote en faisant le gros cross-over (d'où le réta difficile à la fin, et le fait qu'il se tienne la cote une fois debout...). Le guerrier... According to his Instagram post, Seb broke a bit of a left rib while doing the big cross-over (that's why the ending seems so hard, and he's grinning at the end, touching his rib...). What a warrior !
It's also written in the video description
Ouais c'est aussi dans la description de la vidéo. Quel malade.
C’est à quel moment de la vidéo ?
Love the dedication to the uncut footage, thanks Seb - it's definitely what we all want to see!!!
My favourite climbing video by Seb. Gets me psyched every time. Digging the music too...Props to Rouhling for establishing this magnificnt climb! Oh, and cruising up this route while breaking a rib is just out of this world...
I read about Fred Rouhling more than 15 years ago. I saw a picture of him doing that famous bi-doigt on this route and I was immediately hooked to climbing. Many didn't follow Fred's claims about his famous Akira 9b route at that time: his routes / rocks weren't climbed often and some doubted if it was really a 9b. Some people thought about his routes as freakish and not really representing all aspects of climbing. I'm so happy Seb proves the routes are climbable and very very hard at the same time (even if he downgraded Akira to 9a), involving lots of technique, power, preparation and mental strength.
So now I hope more credit is given to Fred Rouhling!
I've seen this over a hundred times now. Absolutely enchanted with this route and your send.
Really nice line and inpressive endurance shaking out in the roof!
Uncut climbing footage like this one are a breathtaking piece of art. With the right music they just take me away, thanks
What's the soundtrack name?
@@Luigi-pj2gi i would really like to know
Ca doit le rendre fou Fred Rouhling de voir tous les genoux que vous placez dans ses voies alors que lui passait en no foot ! Super ces vidéos uncut merci. Et le réta typique des Eaux Claires à la fin j'adore, merveilleux spot et bons souvenirs mais c'était pas la même voie ^^
incredible moves -- what a route! Congrats on the send and big thanks for the high quality uncut footage.
Looking in the description, holy smokes, broke his rib climbing this! Also from the top out looks like first time he did that move (I’m assuming the send wasn’t a flash and he had done the other moves before). Super impressive!
One of the coolest routes ever! Love the music too...
Merci DirtyBiologypour m'avoir fait découvrir cette super chaîne TH-cam.
Amazing footage. How can this be "only" 9a? How many 9a climbers can do all these mono? To me this looks so difficult! Fred Rouhling deserves more credit, this route is a piece or art.
It looks every bit of it's rated difficulty, if not harder. Many of these 1980s-90s routes are pump fests on tiny holds, giving top modern climbers weaned on compression routes more than they bargained for.
Spectacular climbing and footage, you deserve a lot more viewers
i waited for the jump :)
Me too :)
me too
me too
These moves are awesome!! And a mantle to finish, amazing rout!
Awesome! What's not to like about Freds choice of routes? "On the other side of the sky"
Pure poetry in motion! Incredible to watch
Top out kills me every time 😅
6 minutes de bonheur.... merci ! Super bande son qui va avec.
Wow Les mouvements et la musique. Une dinguerie ! Bravo et respect.
Best uncut 2021 plus very crazy turn arounds and croosovers. Thanks and congrats for the send🤙🏼
Splendide! Ce coincement de genou à 3:30, incroyable.
Great video Seb and the music is spot on!
Holy shit that was intense! Can’t believe you pulled through that massive crossover and continued on with a broken rib. Dedication to the send!
Bordel de mer2 ! J'y étais cette aprèm, c'est à puymoye' en charente, les eau clair. trop vénère la vidéo !!! Surhumain
Climbing a drilled and chipped route sans kneepad. Gotta love it
Cte réta avec les genoux ! Très chouette vidéo ! Petite remarque, perso, je préfère les uncut sans musique et avec l'ambiance sonore de l'ascension. Je sais que c'est pas toujours possible (avec les drones ???). Je ne sais pas si cette préférence est partagée. Vivement la suite avec les voies du Saussois ou avec les FA (ou pas) dans le sud de la France et en Espagne !
Great climbing And great filming of a very hard route.
Amazing ! Awesome mono and mouvement ! So impressive. You could even keep the rest at normal speed to keep the intensity !
Best looking route ever
Whoa!!! Respect le plus total car c'est vraiment impressionnant. Belle prestation...
Those have got to be some of the sickest moves on pockets I've ever seen.
Ça doit piquer la fin avec une côte pétée ! Bravo Seb
J'ai tellement mal aux doigts... les monos en no-foot.... aie. Superbe grimpe. Cette difficulté, c'est impressionnant.
Bravo pour ce solo avec la roche et la gravité ;
Not only great climbing, but also beautiful gymnastics!
waouuuuh c'est fou, j'imagine pas l'abnégation, les sacrifices et le mentale pour réussir de telles prouesses. c'est fou........
Juste magnifique 🤩
Dream route. Such cool movement
nice to see even pros doing grotty mantles on their knees
Seb broke one of his rib when he did the crux, that's why the ending is a bit sketchy !
@@torwald5877 Oh wow, that really sucks, I was wondering why he was grabbing his ribs at the end! hope he heals soon.
@@torwald5877 Where exactly ?I don't see any part where it hits
@@Furansowakun See description. Could not figure out the exact time of that move, tho.
This route must have been earth shattering when first discovered. Its hard to believe its only a 9a!
It wasn't really "discovered", more like built. Fred chipped a lot of the holds, it was a different era.
@@adriensanz2354 and before Fred it was aid climbed
@@Yaploq Really ? I did not know that. Thanks for the piece of climbing culture 👌
Great line, great climbing!
Vraiment énorme...merci
Beautiful climb!
Juste incroyable...
Incredible linie!
Bravo 100x! best french climber !
Enjoyable to watch.
Incroyable !
Magnifique!
hola Seb, eres increíble. me encanta tu trabajo. yo tambien escalo, pero a mi nivel, claro. lo tuyo es de lujo
Awesome, thanks.
Incredible!
Ca c'est une ligne qu'elle est belle ! :O
Bravo à toi !
When exactly is the rib-breaking move? From description "during the big cross over (to go on the two finger pocket)". Not sure where the famous bi doigt hold is - 2:35 with that pretty extrem position? Seb seems unfazed :)
I dont really get how did he break his rib.
Same
just awesome
Ole! Super super guapa la via🙌🙌🙌🙌
Tu es vraiment monstrueux
Trop cool!
Magic line.
Vidéo énorme ! Quelle endurance de fou. Le montage avec la musique est top ! Question, comment récupérer son matos dans cette voie ?!
that was insane
incroyable, !
Brutal.
Sick line
Beautifull line!! Are those holds chiped?? Just curious
Un réta digne de Berhault ou du blond...
Bon sans côte cassé c est plus facile...
Bravo en tout cas très belle ascension et quelle gestuelle!
Tin, c'est beau, c'est bon, c'est bien, c'est vraiment... Tin.
Bravo !
By the way : comment fait-on pour déséquiper ce genre de voie à la fin ?
Such a sketchy looking top out, but amazing send!!
With a broken rib.
Super beautyfull! Where is it?
Eaux Claires, near Angouleme, France.
9A cleaning grade on that route =D
Monstre.
Comme quoi le réta genou n'est pas réservé qu'aux débutants ! Les prises sont naturelles ?
A priori c'est surtout à cause d'une côte cassée... c'est encore plus fort !
Wwwwwaouh 😍😍😍💪
amazing line. totally aesthetic, bouldery rock, and a great combination of 80's 90's and 00's climbing styles. too bad it is chipped. would be better with bolted holds, plus nicer to see it with natural sound and motion.
Super strong. I wish you climbed 9c.
Hoa ! les mouves de fou en milieux de voie, jamais vue ça ! Bravo champion et bonne récupération (les cotes sa fait mal et le bruit du drone ça doit êtres chiant)
wauw
my beloved sport has evolved into insanity. C'est bon
Les biceps bien congestionnés après ça !!
Uskomattoman upea linja.🎉
There is a mantle right at the end of this monster?? Holy smokes...
Could be a real heartbreaker couldn't it? Imagine running out of steam and coming off it!
Compare the kneebars with original accent of Fred... :))
selon une étude très sérieuse tu vas connaitre un pic de vue d'ici quelques heures
Bon, on peut dire qu'après cette vidéo, la rose et le vampire perd le titre de plus belle voie taillée de France? 😆😆😆😈
Les genoux...
That was some sweet brachiation
That was messed up
Batman
merry me
Unbelievable