I don’t know what I would do without these DIY guitar painting/finishing videos! I started a project on an old school LP knockoff. I would have made a ton more mistakes if not for this video & videos like this.
You should use green auto body tape its designed to leave a nice clean edge thus you won't have to worry about the dye going under it. It's tape is pretty sticky and it comes in different widths also. Doesn't water base dyes raise the grain you should use denatured alcohol instead. But it did come out awesome by the way!
That turned out awesome. My son said he wanted to learn to play guitar so he could jam with me when I play my drums.. this would be a cool father son project in the future..love that technique for the staining.. I'd woulda chose blue but that red is very sharp looking.. you gonna use chrome or brass hardware and pickups? Brass would look classy
Thank you. This would make a great father/son project. So many different things to try together. The blue looks awesome this way too. I'll have to do one sometime. I think I'll do chrome and black hardware. I still don't have it all yet.
THANK YOU!!!!!!! I was always wondering how luthiers got such a nice clean line between the cap edge and the main body........tape and sanding sealer. As soon as you started applying the red dye, it was like an orchestra coming into tune. This process is so easy I'm amazed I messed it up the first time. I was working on a Solo kit with a burl ash top, and the veneer was so thin I didn't think I could sand it back. I ended up with a taupe guitar, and that's OK. Life is learning. I work in a place where I can get my bodies clearcoated for free, we have a buffing wheel, and from my understanding, you only need to wetsand `halfway. If you're applying 4 coats of clear, gently sand the 2nd, and apply two more then do a finish wetsand. I've talked to many autobody painters about this also as I deliver auto parts, and 50% of my deliveries are to bodyshops. They say that the middle sanding makes the other two go on soooo smooth it makes the final sand a no=brainer. Thast's a beautiful looking finish.
I would love to learn how to play guitar. I am going through some major depression because of a work accident in 2013 that has left me on disability. Kids still live at home so they come first. I am a lefty as well and where I live in Canada they either do not keep much lefty guitars in stock or they are way over priced. Some day soon I hope to find a lefty guitar that is reasonably priced so the kids do not have to suffer. Great job with building this guitar.
I recommend to cut the tape on the concave sides of the guitar in the middle........doing it with a full stripe will make the tape sometimes un-attach from the side, and 99% of the times you will have runs on them
Beautiful. I bought a IYV guitar that's chambered with the same finish and she is absolutely beautiful. My wife is left handed and would love to get her a body like that to build her one of her own.
Looks absolutely slick!! I'm thinking of doing this exact idea to a BC Rich warlock (bronze series) . Fell upon this video looking for precisely this kind of info. Crazy how awesome it goes with your mahogany back. I haven't watched any other videos on this yet going to right now. Hopefully if it's actual lacquer you used it holds out. It may check after a while. Lacquer requires days between coats so it can shrink before adding more top coats. Building up a thick layer can take weeks or even months.
Good stuff! I see what I like. And I like what I see! That is a very nice tele body. Seriously R U willing to do any builds yet. Just body and necks. No electronics your taste in colors is right down my thought as well. The ruby red with quilt is George ours. And I of course would send you the needed materials. Give it a thought. Happy holidays to you and yours.
I usually only sand between every 3-4 coats if its necessary. If its smooth, I'll just keep spraying. It all depends on how well the initial surface is prepared.
I used to do the black first then sand, then the real color. But then I'm seeing those PRS videos where they go straight to the main colors and no black-then-sand. What's the deal with that?
So you don't need to use grain filler or pre-stain conditioner on maple? I have a solid maple mustang body I getting ready to stain, but I don't wanna mess it up lol. I have the stain and the finish. But no grain filler or conditioner
hi i just dyed my first guitar and looked great i then wiped on sanding sealer with rag and well everything turned to crap. it stuck to the dye and was very hard to wipe on, it then started to stick to the dye i used on the wood and ended up making a huge mess. after dry i sanding it but obviously not enough off and made more of a mess when trying to re dye over it. So i guess my question is. 1 i think i need to sand all off and start again. and 2 would you ever rag wipe on sanding sealer. cheers
I feel like it is a sin to stain figured maple. It does pop, but takes away the chatoyance completely. No shimmer. Sometimes maple will have streaks that wont.take stain as well. I lay a clear coat first then use a translucent color, and it's reversible. To each their own though.
Just watched this video for the first time. Beautiful job on the guitar top. Just one question from a newbie. I see you did not cut the pick up control holds and switch hole in the top before you started the dying process. Is there a particular reason why you don't want the holes before you do the top finish so you won't have to potentially damage the top when you cut the holes later? Thanks.
I should have drilled those holes first to avoid any damage to the finish. When I did drill them, I placed some painters tape on the top to prevent any tearout and it worked great.
I'm curious how long you waited between coats of clear? My can says I can re-coat any time and that full dry is 30 minutes. I am just wondering if it needs to cure at all.
I waited about an hour between coats. It was dry to the touch I. About 30 minutes too. If you're going to buff it, I would let it cure at least a week. This let's the finish really harden up.
Hi. I'm using a Keda dye; and I'm struggling to get a 'red' red. It comes out quite pink! Which dye did you use and how did you mix it? The keda dye tutorials on youtube say sanding affects the penetration and colour; but I get pink regardless. I'm after a nice cherry red to go on top of a black dye; similar to yours.
That and orange peel. But mainly its a tone killer. Ive noticed too many clear coats and the guitar doesnt "breath" as well and effects the natural resonance and sustain. But it sure does look beautiful.
Thanks Jeff. I have been trying Tru Oil but I can't seem to get a good result. I am considering stripping it down and starting over, following your recipe. In any case, thanks for the inspiration and the good advices :-)
This looks really good, great job! I have a question about the wood figuring, perhaps you could clarify the subject. It's a bit long, but this has been a headache so your input could be helpful... I had some thread about finish wear on a LP forum, and it delved a bit onto the 2-piece maple top thing (as I consider stripping my sunburst and doing a natural finish at some point); I said I don't get the asymmetrical bookmatched look on some guitars, where either the actual figuring geometry, the shading or both are offset rather than perfectly mirrored. I said some guitars seem to get it perfect, while many Les Pauls have a very prominent visual split at the middle. Perhaps the lower half of the midline, which is carved on a LP, is bound to show some asymmetry due to wood being taken out after the bookmatch cutting, but other than that? And so people there barraged me with comments how "YOU DON'T GET IT? THE PHYSICS OF THE SPLIT GRAIN MUST MAKE IT REFLECT LIGHT IN REVERSE! IT'S NOT ASYMMETRICAL, THE DARK PARTS ARE LIGHT ON THE BOOKMATCHED HALF AND VICE VERSA!". Then if I showed a picture that seemed perfect they told me "it's not flame/quilt". Well, on yours it seems to me to be REALLY symmetrical, or more accurately, in the video there to be no ugly (in my opinion) seam line in the middle. Yet it definitely is a figured top with this "3D light reflecting" effect and it is 2-piece and bookmatched. So how come your guitar has such perfect geometry? Do you agree these people's statement, that bookmatching can't be optically symmetrical from side to side, is wrong?
I believe the process of book matching will give the symmetry you're looking for. I think the other tops you're talking about are highly figured but not necessarily bookmatched. Every time I have done something that's book matched, its symmetrical, ar at least very close.
@@homebuiltshop Thanks for replying! Here's the thing, the discussion was about maple tops that are basically bookmatched because you can see the grain is more-or-less mirrored between the halves, but the middle is very unsmooth and not seamless, so you get a clear separation between the left and right halves which looks weird to me. Sometimes even the geometry of the grain looks offset, but sometimes it's (supposedly) just the lighting effect, which the people trying to lecture me claim "MUST be reversed because the bookmatched grain is aligned in reverse". But here on your guitar (and some other examples I've found) it seems VERY smooth and continuous; the effect of complex light reflection is still there as you can see it "shines" in all sorts of ways when moving the guitar, but it's also seamless throughout the halves so it looks like a single piece of wood. It doesn't seem like it should matter from a geometrical standpoint, but perhaps the exact form of figuring plays a role in this?
Book matching results in the 2 halves being almost exactly the same but mirrored. In my experience the patterns are very close when done this way. I think when both sides are figured, but dont line up, they are not truly bookmatched. It may be from the same piece of wood but not lined up exactly with each other. When they are aligned correctly you should get a very similar grain pattern on each side. I'm not saying others are wrong, just that when bookmatched, there should be symmetry.
@@homebuiltshop OK, so grain symmetry should be there, but let me pinpoint this: you _don't_ often find that the light/dark coloring of the grain is reversed between the halves? That's what they mostly claimed, that when shone and moved against a light source, the optical effect of bookmatched flame/quilt maple can't, from a physical standpoint, be smooth and symmetrical at the middle as the "pore alignment" is reversed.
That's one of the most technically well done and beautiful dye jobs I've seen on TH-cam yet. Sweet.
Thanks so much. I appreciate it.
@@homebuiltshop what clear coat spray did you use
When you get a chance let me know what spray clear coat you used
The Red dye is it Transtint?
I don’t know what I would do without these DIY guitar painting/finishing videos! I started a project on an old school LP knockoff. I would have made a ton more mistakes if not for this video & videos like this.
Thanks. I'm really glad it helped you out. 👍
This video gave me the inspiration to dye my Jazz Bass. Thanx! 😎
You should use green auto body tape its designed to leave a nice clean edge thus you won't have to worry about the dye going under it. It's tape is pretty sticky and it comes in different widths also. Doesn't water base dyes raise the grain you should use denatured alcohol instead. But it did come out awesome by the way!
That turned out awesome. My son said he wanted to learn to play guitar so he could jam with me when I play my drums.. this would be a cool father son project in the future..love that technique for the staining.. I'd woulda chose blue but that red is very sharp looking.. you gonna use chrome or brass hardware and pickups? Brass would look classy
Thank you. This would make a great father/son project. So many different things to try together. The blue looks awesome this way too. I'll have to do one sometime. I think I'll do chrome and black hardware. I still don't have it all yet.
That will look awesome. Anxious to see finshied product and hear it jam!
Did this finally happen?
I am a left also; I am getting into building guitars of my own. Been a really joy.
Great job mr
Thank You!
THANK YOU!!!!!!! I was always wondering how luthiers got such a nice clean line between the cap edge and the main body........tape and sanding sealer.
As soon as you started applying the red dye, it was like an orchestra coming into tune. This process is so easy I'm amazed I messed it up the first time. I was working on a Solo kit with a burl ash top, and the veneer was so thin I didn't think I could sand it back. I ended up with a taupe guitar, and that's OK. Life is learning.
I work in a place where I can get my bodies clearcoated for free, we have a buffing wheel, and from my understanding, you only need to wetsand `halfway. If you're applying 4 coats of clear, gently sand the 2nd, and apply two more then do a finish wetsand. I've talked to many autobody painters about this also as I deliver auto parts, and 50% of my deliveries are to bodyshops. They say that the middle sanding makes the other two go on soooo smooth it makes the final sand a no=brainer.
Thast's a beautiful looking finish.
Thank You!
Very nice.
Thank you
Came out awesome! love the pho-binding!
Thanks, It should be cured now and time to wet sand and polish. 👍
Faux. It's french for fake.
Beautiful Man... Just Beautiful
Thanks!
Awesome thanks
This project Jeff has the WOW factor, well done
Thank you. I can't wait to get it all together. 👍
I'm also looking forward to it
I would love to learn how to play guitar. I am going through some major depression because of a work accident in 2013 that has left me on disability. Kids still live at home so they come first. I am a lefty as well and where I live in Canada they either do not keep much lefty guitars in stock or they are way over priced. Some day soon I hope to find a lefty guitar that is reasonably priced so the kids do not have to suffer. Great job with building this guitar.
That’s Beautiful
Thank You!
Wow beautiful
Thank you so much
I recommend to cut the tape on the concave sides of the guitar in the middle........doing it with a full stripe will make the tape sometimes un-attach from the side, and 99% of the times you will have runs on them
I'll remember that. Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it. I learn so much from advise like this. 👍
LOOKS GREAT
Thank You!
Nice work Jeff!
Thanks man. I can't wait to get it together.
Awsome. I am looking forward to watch your next vid on the buffing process...and of course to see and hear the finished guitar.
Thanks, I'm working on the video now. Should be ready soon. 👍
Beautiful! Very nice!
Thank You!
Beautiful!!!!!
Thank you!!
Beautiful job. I REALLY hope you go with gold hardware or that new worn copper they have. That would look incredible. Really nice guitar my friend.
Your vids are so enjoyable. Look forward to the next one on this guitar.
Thank you. I cant wait either. 👍
Totally awesome.
Thanks. Hopefully it will be going together in the next week or so. 👍
Really really nice!
Thank You so much.
Great color combination. Takes some discipline to not rush. Well done.
Thank you!
Thank you!
Beautiful. I bought a IYV guitar that's chambered with the same finish and she is absolutely beautiful. My wife is left handed and would love to get her a body like that to build her one of her own.
please more guitar builds and tutorials on guitars! subscribed just cuz i like your guitar tutorials so much! :)
Thanks. Stay tuned! 👍
Now I know how make the perfect guitar body! The only thing is that I'd leave extra quilt to contour the body how I like
Totally Cool Man!!!!
Gorgeous guitar,!
Thanks a lot!
Wow Jeff that looks awesome. Maybe one of these days I'll see you playing it.
Thanks Rebecca! I'm anxious to play it. 👍
Looks absolutely slick!! I'm thinking of doing this exact idea to a BC Rich warlock (bronze series) . Fell upon this video looking for precisely this kind of info. Crazy how awesome it goes with your mahogany back. I haven't watched any other videos on this yet going to right now. Hopefully if it's actual lacquer you used it holds out. It may check after a while. Lacquer requires days between coats so it can shrink before adding more top coats. Building up a thick layer can take weeks or even months.
It is laquer. So far I dont see any issues with it. 👍
Worth the wait :)
I'd love to see more guitar staining vids from you, maybe a Les Paul or PRS Style... this one looks great.
Oh yeah. There are several things I'd like to try. I'll be doing some more.
Damn beautiful, well done
Thanks!
Thanks for the video! I was going to try to make a burgundy aniline mixture but the black under red looks fantastic!
It;s the sanded back black that leaves the closed-grain lighter to take the colour stain. Two part process as I found out through mistakes.
Jeff, that looks awesome! Great job! A guitar is on my woodworking bucket list for one day.
Thank you. I say, just jump in and make one. The first one takes the longest but it's not that bad and so worth it.
Beautiful job!
Good stuff! I see what I like. And I like what I see!
That is a very nice tele body. Seriously R U willing to do any builds yet.
Just body and necks. No electronics your taste in colors is right down my thought as well.
The ruby red with quilt is George ours. And I of course would send you the needed materials. Give it a thought.
Happy holidays to you and yours.
Damn good job my friend. My only regret is that I didn't find your channel fast enough to buy it from you!!!! LOL
Thanks!
Hi Jeff 👏👏👏👏 from Italy
Thanks! 👍
i know this is a old vid, but laying the guitar flat will give better results when clear coating.
Nice work. Do you know what "shade" of red that is (have a item number)? That shade of red plus black is exactly what I am looking for.
I saw this on IG, but I didn't know that you have a TH-cam channel. Subscribed! Charlie Kocourek
Thanks Charlie. Maybe I need to promote it more. I better get after it. 👍😁
Looks fantastic! Thinking something like this on a jazz bass. What are the dyes you use?
Transfast water soluble dye. It's great to work with.
Hello. didi you sandpaper between all the laquer spraying?
I usually only sand between every 3-4 coats if its necessary. If its smooth, I'll just keep spraying. It all depends on how well the initial surface is prepared.
Awesome video! Just wondering, would this technique work on black walnut without a maple top as well?
Sure, It will work for any body type. You probably won't need the sanding sealer around the "binding".
I used to do the black first then sand, then the real color. But then I'm seeing those PRS videos where they go straight to the main colors and no black-then-sand. What's the deal with that?
So you don't need to use grain filler or pre-stain conditioner on maple? I have a solid maple mustang body I getting ready to stain, but I don't wanna mess it up lol. I have the stain and the finish. But no grain filler or conditioner
What did you use to make that beautiful red color
This dye is Transfast water soluble dye. They have a ton of awesome colors.
@@homebuiltshop thank you so much.
@@homebuiltshop do you have like a rough estimate of color ratio or is it straight?
hi i just dyed my first guitar and looked great i then wiped on sanding sealer with rag and well everything turned to crap. it stuck to the dye and was very hard to wipe on, it then started to stick to the dye i used on the wood and ended up making a huge mess. after dry i sanding it but obviously not enough off and made more of a mess when trying to re dye over it. So i guess my question is. 1 i think i need to sand all off and start again. and 2 would you ever rag wipe on sanding sealer. cheers
I’m getting a Schecter Hellraiser vibe... but from a tele
I kind of get that vibe as well. I think it's the colors.
I feel like it is a sin to stain figured maple. It does pop, but takes away the chatoyance completely. No shimmer. Sometimes maple will have streaks that wont.take stain as well.
I lay a clear coat first then use a translucent color, and it's reversible. To each their own though.
Just watched this video for the first time. Beautiful job on the guitar top. Just one question from a newbie. I see you did not cut the pick up control holds and switch hole in the top before you started the dying process. Is there a particular reason why you don't want the holes before you do the top finish so you won't have to potentially damage the top when you cut the holes later? Thanks.
I should have drilled those holes first to avoid any damage to the finish. When I did drill them, I placed some painters tape on the top to prevent any tearout and it worked great.
What grit did you use between coats
Could I ask if this red dye was a mix you created? Or a specific out-of-a-bottle red? Thank you!
This was out of the bottle. Its Trans Fast from Homestead Finishing.
Was that a maple top or veneer?
Its a 1/4" thick top.
What kind of clear did you use?
For this guitar I just used many coats of Deft spray can lacquer.
Your vid is working great on my project. But wont let me send a pic.
What color red dye did you use?
Its the Cardinal Red made by Homestead Finishing Products.
I'm curious how long you waited between coats of clear? My can says I can re-coat any time and that full dry is 30 minutes. I am just wondering if it needs to cure at all.
I waited about an hour between coats. It was dry to the touch I. About 30 minutes too. If you're going to buff it, I would let it cure at least a week. This let's the finish really harden up.
Did you have to sand between each clear coat? Thanks. I know this video is old but I thought I'd ask anyway
I sanded very lightly between every few coats.
@@homebuiltshop Thanks for the response. I really appreciate it.
What type dye did you use?
which do you consider to be more desireable...quilted or flame maple top? I have a schecter C1 w/ quilted and its absolutely beautiful.
I like them both a lot. It seems as flamed maple may be a bit more popular but that may just be my observations.
@@homebuiltshop I guess the real answer is just personal taste, I just think the quilted has more character.
Hi. I'm using a Keda dye; and I'm struggling to get a 'red' red. It comes out quite pink! Which dye did you use and how did you mix it? The keda dye tutorials on youtube say sanding affects the penetration and colour; but I get pink regardless. I'm after a nice cherry red to go on top of a black dye; similar to yours.
I used Trans Fast water based dye. You just add more powder to make it more red. It works great.
@@homebuiltshop Looked at the Trans Fast web site...was your color called "red" or some other red? Love the color on this
Hi Jeff , what kind of varnish do you use ? Will it alter the color of the dye ? Thanks !
The clear I used on it was Deft brand, spray Laquer. I have found it to not alter the colors of the dye. There's not even a yellowish tint to it.
@@homebuiltshop Thanks a lot ! Have a nice day !
14 coats of clear coat seems like total overkill and just lends itself to more runs. Whats the average recommendation for clear coat?
That and orange peel. But mainly its a tone killer. Ive noticed too many clear coats and the guitar doesnt "breath" as well and effects the natural resonance and sustain. But it sure does look beautiful.
What grit did you use to sand back the black dye?
I used 220.
Looks great... but what type of clear did you use? Poly, lacquer....?
What color and brand shoulf I buy? I want a blue/ light blue for my guitar
I like the transfast water based dyes. I have a dark blue and a turquoise that I like.
Jeff, great video with lots of good information. One thing missing is what mixing ratios did you use for the dye? Thanks!
I didn't use a specific ratio. I just mixed the dye powder into the water until it looked "nice and red" Thats the technical term. LOL.
Looks awesome , did you manage to get rid of the little dry spot on the bottom edge of the front ??
Yes, It polished out. I was worried about it.
Did you laquer the back of the guitar also?
Yes, I sprayed the whole body.
Is there a link to all the products you used for this project?
I have a list on my website page for this project. Here's the link. www.homebuiltworkshop.com/2018/08/12/dyeing-a-maple-guitar-top/
@@homebuiltshop TRANSFAST RED OR CARDINAL RED? ...YOU HAVE LISTED BOTH ON YOUR WEB PAGE
Is that a lacquer or poly clear? The red with black is spectacular.
Thanks, its lacquer.
That's beautiful! Would a thin veneer be too thin to do this on?
You could do this on a veneer. It would work well.
Btw, which grit do you use to sand between coats? Do you wet sand?
I sanded between coats with 320. Only wet sand after its cured. 👍
Thanks Jeff. I have been trying Tru Oil but I can't seem to get a good result. I am considering stripping it down and starting over, following your recipe. In any case, thanks for the inspiration and the good advices :-)
Links to the dye?
Was it the sanding sealer that made thegold band around the maple top?
The sanding sealer seals that strip and helps to keep the dye off of it. The color is the actual wood.
No stain is used to get that gold colour? Around the trim?
This looks really good, great job!
I have a question about the wood figuring, perhaps you could clarify the subject. It's a bit long, but this has been a headache so your input could be helpful...
I had some thread about finish wear on a LP forum, and it delved a bit onto the 2-piece maple top thing (as I consider stripping my sunburst and doing a natural finish at some point); I said I don't get the asymmetrical bookmatched look on some guitars, where either the actual figuring geometry, the shading or both are offset rather than perfectly mirrored.
I said some guitars seem to get it perfect, while many Les Pauls have a very prominent visual split at the middle. Perhaps the lower half of the midline, which is carved on a LP, is bound to show some asymmetry due to wood being taken out after the bookmatch cutting, but other than that?
And so people there barraged me with comments how "YOU DON'T GET IT? THE PHYSICS OF THE SPLIT GRAIN MUST MAKE IT REFLECT LIGHT IN REVERSE! IT'S NOT ASYMMETRICAL, THE DARK PARTS ARE LIGHT ON THE BOOKMATCHED HALF AND VICE VERSA!". Then if I showed a picture that seemed perfect they told me "it's not flame/quilt".
Well, on yours it seems to me to be REALLY symmetrical, or more accurately, in the video there to be no ugly (in my opinion) seam line in the middle. Yet it definitely is a figured top with this "3D light reflecting" effect and it is 2-piece and bookmatched. So how come your guitar has such perfect geometry? Do you agree these people's statement, that bookmatching can't be optically symmetrical from side to side, is wrong?
I believe the process of book matching will give the symmetry you're looking for. I think the other tops you're talking about are highly figured but not necessarily bookmatched. Every time I have done something that's book matched, its symmetrical, ar at least very close.
@@homebuiltshop Thanks for replying! Here's the thing, the discussion was about maple tops that are basically bookmatched because you can see the grain is more-or-less mirrored between the halves, but the middle is very unsmooth and not seamless, so you get a clear separation between the left and right halves which looks weird to me.
Sometimes even the geometry of the grain looks offset, but sometimes it's (supposedly) just the lighting effect, which the people trying to lecture me claim "MUST be reversed because the bookmatched grain is aligned in reverse". But here on your guitar (and some other examples I've found) it seems VERY smooth and continuous; the effect of complex light reflection is still there as you can see it "shines" in all sorts of ways when moving the guitar, but it's also seamless throughout the halves so it looks like a single piece of wood.
It doesn't seem like it should matter from a geometrical standpoint, but perhaps the exact form of figuring plays a role in this?
Book matching results in the 2 halves being almost exactly the same but mirrored. In my experience the patterns are very close when done this way. I think when both sides are figured, but dont line up, they are not truly bookmatched. It may be from the same piece of wood but not lined up exactly with each other. When they are aligned correctly you should get a very similar grain pattern on each side. I'm not saying others are wrong, just that when bookmatched, there should be symmetry.
@@homebuiltshop OK, so grain symmetry should be there, but let me pinpoint this: you _don't_ often find that the light/dark coloring of the grain is reversed between the halves?
That's what they mostly claimed, that when shone and moved against a light source, the optical effect of bookmatched flame/quilt maple can't, from a physical standpoint, be smooth and symmetrical at the middle as the "pore alignment" is reversed.
This is great! Can you do one with a Gibson Flying V template?
Beautiful guitar! What clear coat product did you use?
This is just some Deft brand spray lacquer. It worked great.
ficou top
What dyes did you use
Transfast Red and Black water based dye
what are you applying at 1:52 ?
Its a sanding sealer to help seal the grain. I believe its made by zinser.
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