😮 My comment on the axle hubs seems to have vanished, so I'll try it again, forgive me if this ends up being a double post.... You should find those axle caps locally. Most auto parts stores should have them. Just take the one remaining cap with you for size reference. Then you need to get marine axle grease and re-pack the bearings just to be safe. Think of it like changing the oil in your car. Depend on your usage, I'd repack/inspect them yearly. I do mine when I winterize my outboard, and just get it all done at once. (Outboard oil change and all) Re-packing the bearings isn't rocket surgery, anyone can do it. Just get some good laytex gloves, you probably have some left over from glassing the penga. Also, great job getting new/better tires! You won't regret that investment!
@@mydreamboatproject If it's a "Bearing Buddy" or similar type cap, then one of those videos I posted for you covers specifically how to remove those. It requires a bit of a "love tap".
There are bunk slides (made of Teflon I believe?) that make sliding the boat on and off the trailer easier. They are loved and hated depending on who you ask. 😂 Do your research on that. A lot of the trailer add-ons/modifications you may want to do will depend greatly on how often you use it and how many miles you'll be traveling with it. Carpet type stuff is fine for occasional use.
I like the bigger new tires. Looks like you have bearing buddy's on at least one side. They are fancy covers with a Zerk (grease fitting) and spring. You should absolutely clean the bearing, races, inner seals and axel , inspect, and repack the wheel bearings! lots of videos showing how to do it.
RE: #2 I try to make sure I have the rubber caps for the Bearing buddy and the standard hare caps in my trailing supply box. I have lost both types on trips. did I mention e-trailer?
1st time Lief repacked the wheel bearings he got carried away with the grease. About a half hour into our trip tp Manie. I went out to check the temperature of the trailer bearings and one cap was gone and there was a lot of grease on the rim of the tire. It was a good thing I had a spare. saved me the time of looking for a tractor supply supply store. They will also have bearing and trailer stuff. I have used them in a pinch. Not sure I am thrilled with the quality.
@@mydreamboatproject WD40 works in a pinch, but Carb Cleaner works better. Just use one of them little stirring sticks you use for epoxy to get the big stuff out, then hit it with Carb Cleaner.
First put the grill pad with your grill it won’t be a good choice, you want a good grade of indoor/outdoor carpeting then watch several TH-cam videos on replacing trailer bunks and cleaning and repacking or replacing trailer bearings bearing buddies are a good idea but must be used correctly. Buy a bearing packer and use a marine grade of bearing grease if you want to do it yourself, if you have to pay someone to show you how to clean and check a bearing for reuse(that includes the bearing races in the hub). Evan with a new set of bearings will need packed before use and don’t forget the new grease seal for the hub ( it keeps dirt and water away from the large new inner bearing, the outside cap or bearing buddy does the same for the new smaller outer bearing). Both jobs are relatively simple and easy if you know how to do them.
Pick a marine grease for salt water that you like. I went with Luca Marine grease NLGI #2 (calcium sulfonate complex) since I can get it anywhere I am traveling. (Walmart) and its less expensive then other. Down side is I have not found it in tubs local. So I just scoop it our to the standard grease gun tubes. Keeping the same grease in a pump grease gun for the Bearing buddy's is a good Idea. Or just use the gun to squirt the grease into you gloved hand when packing the bearings.
BTW AI overview says: "For saltwater applications, Lucas Marine Grease is the better choice compared to Lucas Red 'N' Tacky Grease as it is specifically formulated to resist water washout and corrosion in harsh marine environments, including saltwater, while Red 'N' Tacky is more of a general-purpose grease with good water resistance but not as optimized for extreme saltwater conditions."
If you are anything like me you could go down the Grease selection rabbit hole. After hours of research I decided to stay with the Lucas Marine from Walmart. Its good enough.
Boy, I don't know what the TH-cam security/algorithm is doing to my comments, but I posted a link to a guy replacing his trailer boards, known as "Bunks" or bunk boards in the boating world, and now it seems it's gone. At any rate, he had a decent idea of using basic 2x4's and painting them, then coating them in epoxy just like you've done on your boat. There are also adjustable "bunk brackets" that you might want to look into if the ones you have currently are not adequately height adjustable. That set of roller bumpers at the front of the trailer should be adjustable for height as well as length. You want most of the boat weight on the a els of course, but you also want enough tongue weight to prevent swaying while towing. I'm sure there's a mathematical way to determine exactly where your boats center of gravity is with the motor installed.
Good to know. I hadn't thought about the balancing issues. :-) I wonder is covering the bunks with the carpet I mentioned would be better than epoxy for scratching the paint on the bottom of the boat???
@@mydreamboatproject You can use the carpet AFTER (on top of) the epoxy... If you don't water seal the wood, you are asking for quickly rotting wood. The carpet will mold and break down faster as the wet wood will keep the carpet wet, and visa versa.. If you seal the wood like your boat, you can put anything you want on top of the wood. Also pay attention to any holes you poke into the Bunks, just as you would when poking holes in your boat. (screw holes need to be sealed, i.e. squirt some silicone or maybe even epoxy into a pre-drilled hole before you set the screws/bolts into the wood so the hole is sealed with the screw/bolt. Not just smeared onto the screw/bolt head.)
th-cam.com/video/nymy00szzfE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=BzJMCJNTaNwoTRdg This guy has a great idea for replacing those boards, known as "Bunks" or "bunk boards" in the boating world. Just use 2x4's and paint it and coat it with epoxy just like you have done with your boat! I'd adjust the bunk height with the boat on the trailer, but there may be a better way. With my lack of tools and equipment, I'd raise the aft of the boat with a floor jack and some cribbage until it's level, then bring up the Bunks to meet the hull. Also make sure those bumper rollers in the front are adjusted for angle and height, as well as length. The boat needs to be balanced lengthwise on the trailer so that most of the weight is on the axles, but enough weight is on the tongue to keep the tongue on the ball. Last thing you want is too much weight on the tail end of the trailer.
th-cam.com/video/F3SdhtP1tK8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9JZlmb0ghP3Uht3S This guy does a great job of showing you how to repack your bearings. Those bearing buddy things are awesome upgrades also. It's a messy job, but after all the mess you've already dealt with lol it's not bad. 😅
😮 My comment on the axle hubs seems to have vanished, so I'll try it again, forgive me if this ends up being a double post....
You should find those axle caps locally. Most auto parts stores should have them. Just take the one remaining cap with you for size reference.
Then you need to get marine axle grease and re-pack the bearings just to be safe. Think of it like changing the oil in your car.
Depend on your usage, I'd repack/inspect them yearly. I do mine when I winterize my outboard, and just get it all done at once. (Outboard oil change and all)
Re-packing the bearings isn't rocket surgery, anyone can do it. Just get some good laytex gloves, you probably have some left over from glassing the penga.
Also, great job getting new/better tires! You won't regret that investment!
The one cap seems to be struck on there pretty tight. Any tips on how to get it off?
@@mydreamboatproject Be careful using heat, but that is one option. Is the cap metal or plastic/rubber?
@@mydreamboatproject If it's a "Bearing Buddy" or similar type cap, then one of those videos I posted for you covers specifically how to remove those. It requires a bit of a "love tap".
There are bunk slides (made of Teflon I believe?) that make sliding the boat on and off the trailer easier. They are loved and hated depending on who you ask. 😂
Do your research on that.
A lot of the trailer add-ons/modifications you may want to do will depend greatly on how often you use it and how many miles you'll be traveling with it.
Carpet type stuff is fine for occasional use.
I like the bigger new tires. Looks like you have bearing buddy's on at least one side. They are fancy covers with a Zerk (grease fitting) and spring. You should absolutely clean the bearing, races, inner seals and axel , inspect, and repack the wheel bearings! lots of videos showing how to do it.
Thanks for the tips!
e trailer has everything you need
I bought my other trailer from e-trailer
RE: #2 I try to make sure I have the rubber caps for the Bearing buddy and the standard hare caps in my trailing supply box. I have lost both types on trips. did I mention e-trailer?
1st time Lief repacked the wheel bearings he got carried away with the grease. About a half hour into our trip tp Manie. I went out to check the temperature of the trailer bearings and one cap was gone and there was a lot of grease on the rim of the tire. It was a good thing I had a spare. saved me the time of looking for a tractor supply supply store. They will also have bearing and trailer stuff. I have used them in a pinch. Not sure I am thrilled with the quality.
The one side without the cap is filled with gunk. I'll have to find a way to clean it all out.
@@mydreamboatproject WD40 works in a pinch, but Carb Cleaner works better. Just use one of them little stirring sticks you use for epoxy to get the big stuff out, then hit it with Carb Cleaner.
First put the grill pad with your grill it won’t be a good choice, you want a good grade of indoor/outdoor carpeting then watch several TH-cam videos on replacing trailer bunks and cleaning and repacking or replacing trailer bearings bearing buddies are a good idea but must be used correctly. Buy a bearing packer and use a marine grade of bearing grease if you want to do it yourself, if you have to pay someone to show you how to clean and check a bearing for reuse(that includes the bearing races in the hub). Evan with a new set of bearings will need packed before use and don’t forget the new grease seal for the hub ( it keeps dirt and water away from the large new inner bearing, the outside cap or bearing buddy does the same for the new smaller outer bearing). Both jobs are relatively simple and easy if you know how to do them.
Thanks Doug. Appreciate the input. :-)
Pick a marine grease for salt water that you like. I went with Luca Marine grease NLGI #2 (calcium sulfonate complex) since I can get it anywhere I am traveling. (Walmart) and its less expensive then other. Down side is I have not found it in tubs local. So I just scoop it our to the standard grease gun tubes. Keeping the same grease in a pump grease gun for the Bearing buddy's is a good Idea. Or just use the gun to squirt the grease into you gloved hand when packing the bearings.
BTW AI overview says: "For saltwater applications, Lucas Marine Grease is the better choice compared to Lucas Red 'N' Tacky Grease as it is specifically formulated to resist water washout and corrosion in harsh marine environments, including saltwater, while Red 'N' Tacky is more of a general-purpose grease with good water resistance but not as optimized for extreme saltwater conditions."
If you are anything like me you could go down the Grease selection rabbit hole. After hours of research I decided to stay with the Lucas Marine from Walmart. Its good enough.
I'll check Walmart again. I was looking at the grease yesterday there but had no clue with all the choices. Thanks.
Boy, I don't know what the TH-cam security/algorithm is doing to my comments, but I posted a link to a guy replacing his trailer boards, known as "Bunks" or bunk boards in the boating world, and now it seems it's gone.
At any rate, he had a decent idea of using basic 2x4's and painting them, then coating them in epoxy just like you've done on your boat.
There are also adjustable "bunk brackets" that you might want to look into if the ones you have currently are not adequately height adjustable.
That set of roller bumpers at the front of the trailer should be adjustable for height as well as length. You want most of the boat weight on the a els of course, but you also want enough tongue weight to prevent swaying while towing.
I'm sure there's a mathematical way to determine exactly where your boats center of gravity is with the motor installed.
Good to know. I hadn't thought about the balancing issues. :-) I wonder is covering the bunks with the carpet I mentioned would be better than epoxy for scratching the paint on the bottom of the boat???
@@mydreamboatproject You can use the carpet AFTER (on top of) the epoxy... If you don't water seal the wood, you are asking for quickly rotting wood. The carpet will mold and break down faster as the wet wood will keep the carpet wet, and visa versa.. If you seal the wood like your boat, you can put anything you want on top of the wood. Also pay attention to any holes you poke into the Bunks, just as you would when poking holes in your boat. (screw holes need to be sealed, i.e. squirt some silicone or maybe even epoxy into a pre-drilled hole before you set the screws/bolts into the wood so the hole is sealed with the screw/bolt. Not just smeared onto the screw/bolt head.)
th-cam.com/video/nymy00szzfE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=BzJMCJNTaNwoTRdg
This guy has a great idea for replacing those boards, known as "Bunks" or "bunk boards" in the boating world. Just use 2x4's and paint it and coat it with epoxy just like you have done with your boat!
I'd adjust the bunk height with the boat on the trailer, but there may be a better way. With my lack of tools and equipment, I'd raise the aft of the boat with a floor jack and some cribbage until it's level, then bring up the Bunks to meet the hull. Also make sure those bumper rollers in the front are adjusted for angle and height, as well as length. The boat needs to be balanced lengthwise on the trailer so that most of the weight is on the axles, but enough weight is on the tongue to keep the tongue on the ball. Last thing you want is too much weight on the tail end of the trailer.
Thanks for the info. Very helpful. :-)
th-cam.com/video/F3SdhtP1tK8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9JZlmb0ghP3Uht3S
This guy does a great job of showing you how to repack your bearings. Those bearing buddy things are awesome upgrades also.
It's a messy job, but after all the mess you've already dealt with lol it's not bad. 😅
I'll study these videos this week. Thanks!