Man your way is so much easier than a few other videos I've watched for the same vehicle! Other videos they took off the freaking caliper the whole break system wayyyyyyy more than you did here!! I'll be following your procedure for sure!!
I appreciate the feedback. Thank you. I do want to let you know that a pry bar may also work in place of the cv axle tool. The only reason I used this tool in the video was due to the rounded part of the axle. I couldn't get the pry bar to grab the axle. This may save you some time. Good luck. Let me know how this works out for you.
@waveydavey5746I love the greedy mechanics. Because of them I learn more and more about fixing my car everyday. I always give them a chance for convenience purposes, once they give me the crazy quote, I thank them and tell them to have a good day. I make my way to TH-cam and with enough videos I've been fixing all that's wrong with my car one by one. It's even exciting to the point that I'm looking forward to what will break next so I can learn something new.
The pin? Im assuming youre talking about the spiking the axle nut. That axle nut should be torqued down prior to spiking the axle nut to secure it in place. If you have a pin, same thing, that axle nut needs to be torqued to specs and the correct hardware needs to be used to secure it in place. If you are experiencing vibration during acceleration, could be a bad axle, the axle nut could be loose, or could be bad engine or transmission mounts.
Just finished doing this and your video was very helpful. However, I forgot to put that big washer that goes on the wheel hub side of the cv axle back on from the old axle. Would you take the wheel hub back off and put that big thin washer back on? How big of a deal is it? thanks
It should be similar. I do not have the car with me to check. I do know that the passenger side cv axle is longer than the drivers side but a lot of the information provided still applies.
@@mmunoz1379thank you! I ended up popping the lower ball joint out of the knuckle and left it attached to the control arm, and had just enough room to get everything in and out without having to disconnect the stabilizer. Driver's side inner boot caught a trailer hitch on the highway in the dark, and it took it a bit to lose all the grease. Test drive after was smooth, and steering was as close as it's ever been (150k miles and counting).
A lot of this would apply to many vehicles. I don't have a 2017 to know this for sure but go to the description and torque specs. It says 2015-2019. Hope this helps
No, go to 3:30 in the video. You can do it that way, taking out the strut bolts, but with the way the suspension is set up, I find it easier to remove the three bolts on the lower control arm to separate it from lower ball joint. If you think about it, you just need the knuckle to move to take the axle out of the hub. I did this easily, as shown in the video. If the lower ball joint was set up differently, then I may have done it by removing the strut bolts.
It's really a matter of preference. You definitely can do it the way you're asking about but watch at 3:30 how I move the assembly out of the way easily. Thats why I went with it. It all depends on how the steering and suspension are set up. On different vehicles, depending on how the lower ball join is set up, I may have used the method you went with.
Thanks so much! The dealership wanted to charge almost $1,000 to replace both axles but I had it done for about $400. However, after we put them in, the power steering started changing, the ABS light came on, the traction control light came on, the blind spot detection light came on, the tire pressure monitor light came on, the cruise control stopped working, and the engine control system light came on. We unhooked the battery and hooked it back up and the engine light went off but I’m still having the other issues. Do you know of anything that could’ve caused this?
I'm not sure why this would happen all at once, but all the codes may be related. To be certain, I would have the car scanned first, for direction, and go from there to determine a fix.
Sounds like broken or disconnected ABS sensor? I know when I did CVs on my Subaru Outback, I had to be careful to pull that sensor (simple) before pulling the axle, or the axle might shear it off. ABS & Cruise not working sounds like a sensor disconnected or damaged. Other warning lights often follow the initial problem.
You probably messed with the abs sensor attached to the wheel. The wire may have shorted. The same thing happened to me. A mechanic fixed mine but forgot to hook the abs properly, leading to the wiring scratching the wheel and Shorting. I replaced the abs sensor and all is well. All lights are gone.
I don't really know which one you're talking about but I will assume that you are talking about the slide hammer and adapter for the cv axle. 57033 is the part number for the slide hammer. It can be rented from AutoZone. 57058 is the part number for CV axle puller adapter but its too small for that job. In the video, I show what size it needs to be for it to work. If you rent tools from AutoZone and you have them for more than 90 days, they're yours. Thats what happened to me so I modified mine to work instead of renting the correct size. Hope this helps
The passenger side has something attached to it called a half shaft or jackshaft. Usually attached with about 2 or 3 screws. These screws will have to come out to remove the axle and the half shaft as an entire assembly.
@@mmunoz1379 yeah the half shaft or intermediate shaft, 3 bolts just hold on the cover, it was still stuck and didn’t come out. Have to replace that shaft as well and it’s a huge pain to locate the part
![[DIY] How to Replace the Front Struts on a 2015 Hyundai Sonata](/img/n.gif)
Thank you for the step by step explanation, I thought it would be more difficult.
It can be, just know that I'm in FL and I don't have to deal with any rust.
@@mmunoz1379 likewise
Is there any seals that need to be replaced?
Man your way is so much easier than a few other videos I've watched for the same vehicle! Other videos they took off the freaking caliper the whole break system wayyyyyyy more than you did here!! I'll be following your procedure for sure!!
I appreciate the feedback. Thank you. I do want to let you know that a pry bar may also work in place of the cv axle tool. The only reason I used this tool in the video was due to the rounded part of the axle. I couldn't get the pry bar to grab the axle. This may save you some time. Good luck. Let me know how this works out for you.
Thanks for the vid. Mechanic wanted $680 ended up costing less than $100 on my own
Thats what Im here for. Glad to help out
@waveydavey5746I love the greedy mechanics. Because of them I learn more and more about fixing my car everyday. I always give them a chance for convenience purposes, once they give me the crazy quote, I thank them and tell them to have a good day. I make my way to TH-cam and with enough videos I've been fixing all that's wrong with my car one by one. It's even exciting to the point that I'm looking forward to what will break next so I can learn something new.
If u do feel the vibration u mentioned after u do the job should u take wheel off and try to secure the pin better?
The pin? Im assuming youre talking about the spiking the axle nut. That axle nut should be torqued down prior to spiking the axle nut to secure it in place. If you have a pin, same thing, that axle nut needs to be torqued to specs and the correct hardware needs to be used to secure it in place. If you are experiencing vibration during acceleration, could be a bad axle, the axle nut could be loose, or could be bad engine or transmission mounts.
Thanks for the video. Everything went just as you described
Awesome! I'm glad I was able to help you out.
Just finished doing this and your video was very helpful. However, I forgot to put that big washer that goes on the wheel hub side of the cv axle back on from the old axle. Would you take the wheel hub back off and put that big thin washer back on? How big of a deal is it? thanks
I'm glad this guide helped.
Is this the washer that goes behind the axle nut?
So would the procedure for the passenger side be quite a bit different? About to do it this week.
It should be similar. I do not have the car with me to check. I do know that the passenger side cv axle is longer than the drivers side but a lot of the information provided still applies.
Same thing. Just longer
Does this method require an alignment afterwards?
It shouldn't need one.
It would be a good idea to test drive it before and after the repair to compare.
@@mmunoz1379thank you! I ended up popping the lower ball joint out of the knuckle and left it attached to the control arm, and had just enough room to get everything in and out without having to disconnect the stabilizer. Driver's side inner boot caught a trailer hitch on the highway in the dark, and it took it a bit to lose all the grease. Test drive after was smooth, and steering was as close as it's ever been (150k miles and counting).
@@Tiezane I'm glad everything worked out for you.
Would this be the same way for a 2017
A lot of this would apply to many vehicles. I don't have a 2017 to know this for sure but go to the description and torque specs. It says 2015-2019. Hope this helps
So you didn't have to take the two strut bolts out?
No, go to 3:30 in the video. You can do it that way, taking out the strut bolts, but with the way the suspension is set up, I find it easier to remove the three bolts on the lower control arm to separate it from lower ball joint.
If you think about it, you just need the knuckle to move to take the axle out of the hub. I did this easily, as shown in the video.
If the lower ball joint was set up differently, then I may have done it by removing the strut bolts.
Why didn’t you just drop the knuckle by undoing the two strut bolts?
It's really a matter of preference. You definitely can do it the way you're asking about but watch at 3:30 how I move the assembly out of the way easily. Thats why I went with it. It all depends on how the steering and suspension are set up. On different vehicles, depending on how the lower ball join is set up, I may have used the method you went with.
Thanks so much! The dealership wanted to charge almost $1,000 to replace both axles but I had it done for about $400. However, after we put them in, the power steering started changing, the ABS light came on, the traction control light came on, the blind spot detection light came on, the tire pressure monitor light came on, the cruise control stopped working, and the engine control system light came on. We unhooked the battery and hooked it back up and the engine light went off but I’m still having the other issues. Do you know of anything that could’ve caused this?
I'm not sure why this would happen all at once, but all the codes may be related. To be certain, I would have the car scanned first, for direction, and go from there to determine a fix.
Sounds like broken or disconnected ABS sensor? I know when I did CVs on my Subaru Outback, I had to be careful to pull that sensor (simple) before pulling the axle, or the axle might shear it off. ABS & Cruise not working sounds like a sensor disconnected or damaged. Other warning lights often follow the initial problem.
You probably messed with the abs sensor attached to the wheel. The wire may have shorted. The same thing happened to me. A mechanic fixed mine but forgot to hook the abs properly, leading to the wiring scratching the wheel and Shorting. I replaced the abs sensor and all is well. All lights are gone.
Hi what's up noz good work
Good Helpful info Thanks
No problem, thanks for watching
Where do I get that tool?
I don't really know which one you're talking about but I will assume that you are talking about the slide hammer and adapter for the cv axle. 57033 is the part number for the slide hammer. It can be rented from AutoZone. 57058 is the part number for CV axle puller adapter but its too small for that job. In the video, I show what size it needs to be for it to work. If you rent tools from AutoZone and you have them for more than 90 days, they're yours. Thats what happened to me so I modified mine to work instead of renting the correct size. Hope this helps
I actually bought a small prybar for 4$ from harbor freight and a 3 lb hammer, did the trick
@@franchisebarber1017 Typically I would use a prybar but since the cv axle design was curved and not squared, I used the method in the video.
I used a crowbar on my Outback. Was a little worried to break something, but it popped right out, no problem.
What about the passenger side…I’m stuck on mine. It won’t come out of that long shaft
The passenger side has something attached to it called a half shaft or jackshaft. Usually attached with about 2 or 3 screws. These screws will have to come out to remove the axle and the half shaft as an entire assembly.
@@mmunoz1379 yeah the half shaft or intermediate shaft, 3 bolts just hold on the cover, it was still stuck and didn’t come out. Have to replace that shaft as well and it’s a huge pain to locate the part
@thomas hawkins I was looking for that term. Intermediate shaft. What year vehicle?
@@mmunoz1379 2015