Oh, OK. I didn’t know that and that’s really helpful actually because I’m missing a bunch of the dash screws so now I know I can just go pick up some of those from Ace Hardware to replace them thank you, brother.
@31:30 Think of electricity as "water" and wires as "water piping". In 12v negative ground systems like most cars (Frankie included) Water only flows 1 direction, supply to ground. Switches and relays and etc, are like gate valves or devices for controlling the flow of the "water". Lights and gauges require the power to flow 'through' them in order to work. In order to make the water "flow" at all, it must be able to travel from its source (Battery +) eventually to a ground (usually metal of the truck or Battery - ) after passing through all it's components.
Oh man, that’s a really great analogy! That makes it a lot more understandable for sure. Thank you brother. I really appreciate that feedback. It’s honestly really helpful.
@8:08 Don't wire with the key turned to the ON/Run position. Wire with the Key in the Acc position. Acc will run all the same things as the On/Run position, EXCEPT the ignition itself. That way you do not accidentally tap into a circuit that is powering your ignition which should be by itself.
OK, that’s really interesting. I never even would’ve thought of that. I’ll have to double check and see how it’s set up. Thank you brother. I really appreciate the feedback.
@@EYE_SPIDER masking tape and a pen. fold the masking tape over the wire sticking it to itself leaving a slight tag worth of length. then label the tag. (example: 12v Run, GRN, 12v Key, Fused Acc, etc etc) Grandpa taught me with wiring the motto: K.I.S.S = Keep It Simple Stupid. Though i suggest getting a cheap fuse block upgrade like the: Nilight 6 Way Fuse Block (used this on all 5 of our ole 1970's farm fords trucks and some tractors) Hope this info helps ya out.
White wire should be the backlighting on the tach.
Oly ur awesome! Love ur knowledge.
@VinoRatRodbuilds knowledge out of necessity....or desperation...lol
Just trying to help keep ol Bryce on the right tracks. 😊
OK, see I knew you would know
Oh man, he really is. He knows everything I love it!
I love it. Hey somebody’s gotta save me from burning my truck down lol
@36:10 That's a dead short. You got your power going directly to a ground (rubbed or pinched wire or connected directly to a wire or that's grounded)
Oh, OK. Well, that makes sense. At least that will be easy to track down in theory thank you, brother. I really appreciate the help.
Great job brother
Thank you so much Brotha!
Awesome video brother. Thanks for sharing. Keep the content coming. Hope you have an incredible night. Much love and RESPECT
Thank you so much my brotha!! I really appreciate all you do Broski!
@21:09 Those are screws for your glove box liner you don't have... and that's a factory screw, your dash surround should have the same ones.
Oh, OK. I didn’t know that and that’s really helpful actually because I’m missing a bunch of the dash screws so now I know I can just go pick up some of those from Ace Hardware to replace them thank you, brother.
@31:30 Think of electricity as "water" and wires as "water piping". In 12v negative ground systems like most cars (Frankie included) Water only flows 1 direction, supply to ground. Switches and relays and etc, are like gate valves or devices for controlling the flow of the "water". Lights and gauges require the power to flow 'through' them in order to work. In order to make the water "flow" at all, it must be able to travel from its source (Battery +) eventually to a ground (usually metal of the truck or Battery - ) after passing through all it's components.
It's got a leak
Oh man, that’s a really great analogy! That makes it a lot more understandable for sure. Thank you brother. I really appreciate that feedback. It’s honestly really helpful.
Oh man, yeah we definitely got a leak somewhere
@@EYE_SPIDER 😅
@8:08 Don't wire with the key turned to the ON/Run position. Wire with the Key in the Acc position. Acc will run all the same things as the On/Run position, EXCEPT the ignition itself. That way you do not accidentally tap into a circuit that is powering your ignition which should be by itself.
OK, that’s really interesting. I never even would’ve thought of that. I’ll have to double check and see how it’s set up. Thank you brother. I really appreciate the feedback.
@7:57 what is that red wire stuck in to the fuse box running?
That was for the airhorn that I installed a couple weekends ago
@@EYE_SPIDER oooohhh right. Forgot about that. That would probably be better served on its own circuit and maybe even on a relay
Wiring can be a pain sometimes. Stay at it. You will get it
Thank you Brotha! Oh man yeah def not my fav, I'll be happy when its all done.
Sending my support
I really appreciate it Family!!
Wiring can get confusing 🙂👍👍
oh man def not my favorite, I'll be happy when its all done
I think I yelled check the fuse about 10 times 😂
LOL thats awesome, yeah I was def slow on that one lol
@5:10 🤦
😆😆
Booooom!!
BOOM BABY! Thank you Brotha!
Time to trace them all down individually check them and label everything. To much spaghetti 🍝
Yeah I def need to do that, I really want to get it all cleaned up really well
@@EYE_SPIDER masking tape and a pen. fold the masking tape over the wire sticking it to itself leaving a slight tag worth of length. then label the tag.
(example: 12v Run, GRN, 12v Key, Fused Acc, etc etc)
Grandpa taught me with wiring the motto: K.I.S.S = Keep It Simple Stupid.
Though i suggest getting a cheap fuse block upgrade like the: Nilight 6 Way Fuse Block (used this on all 5 of our ole 1970's farm fords trucks and some tractors)
Hope this info helps ya out.
Red Spaghetti!
Oh man, so much red wire it’s insane lol