My apologies Rollo... thanks for asking! I'm hard at it, working on a Master Class Build Video of my Master Carpenter's Footstool. The video is taking more time than hoped so I decided to do a shorter Christmas Star Ornament build video in the meantime that I hope to release next week. It will fill the gap before the Footstool video that should release before year's end. I don't like to push, but FYI, I do provide updates and behind the scenes info to patrons of Next Level Carpentry on Patreon where patron-only videos fill in gaps like this in TH-cam video production.😎 Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry thanks Matt. I really appreciate the great videos that you (plural) mature (polite for a fair bit older, but I’m not a green horn either) tradesmen upload. The little tips really are put to use every day. I tried making videos but they’re really really bad. One day maybe I’ll have the space for a dry workshop and work on my presentation and editing skills.
@@rollovaughan Gotta tell you that creating even amateur level videos (which is how I still rate mine after 6 years) is the hardest new thing I've undertaken in my adult life. Anyone can do it, but it takes a different kind of determination to wrestle with all the digital, technical and social media stuff involved. Here's to hoping you get that dry workshop space sooner rather than later, whether or not you tackle the video production thing... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry regarding cutting the pipes in this video, I found saving any broken Sawzall or hacksaw blades clamped teeth side up in a vice is a useful way to make use of a broken blade, and cut through any small pvc or vinyl parts. (You bring the part to the blade vs the blade to the part.) Not hard to set a jig up with a scrap block if you have a lot to do, but mounting the blade in the vice you can freehand a centerline pretty easily, or make some awkward cuts less awkward on almost any small pvc material.
I have an old yard stick. One of the wide older ones. Lambert Lumber, Building Materials, and Fuel. I keep it on top of a antique toolbox and saw till I cleaned up. Living room furniture for me and full of tools too.
Thanks for sharing. I am in the process of making a hawaiian sailing canoe. The bottom shape is a half cirkel (180 degrees) with a 50 cm width /dia.. So if I use some sandpaper that is 10 cm wide. I will need ( if I dont want the block to wobble and sand uneven) a sanding block that curves (180 x 10) : 50 = 36 degrees. But Bow and stern curve more sharply. Here the sanding tube will be perfect. Thanks.
This is basically what I do when I need a sanding block with very specific properties: th-cam.com/video/ze1yyAb7rUU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fpoxlADwKhYXIILN&t=2991 Should work for the variety of custom profiles and sizes you need....
I buy rolls of 3M Stikit sandpaper. I stick it on dowels, cans, blocks, levels, even a bottle of sunscreen that had the right curve. The adhesive back lets you turn something like a putty knife into a sanding block with a handle and get into hard to reach areas easily (which I did this week fine sanding interior corners on a refinish project). I'll never go back to finding ways to secure my paper, I do far too much sanding to want more difficulty. Try it any you'll agree, it's so worth it. I like the 3M Blue, but wish they had the Cubitron abrasive in Stikit rolls. Oh well. All my sheet paper (and random orbital) is Cubitron, it's better than all the others on the market. Thanks for the video!
Brilliant idea really enjoyed the video and your channel in general. I love the time you take to explain everything clearly and the craftsmanship is always superb. All the best from Scotland ✌🏻
One of my vendors has a yard stick that they still use. It has a 4 digit phone number and is from a business that used to occupy the same space 60 years ago.
It seemed to me that that contraction is from internal tension in the plastic... it's just the right amount to make a perfect built-in spring clamp for holding sandpaper on all but the smallest size. Best, Matt
You're quite welcome... hope you find them useful, Rudy! BTW I checked out the "Coop and Run" video you've posted on your Channel... my compliments to you on exceptionally clean workmanship on what many others might rush through sloppily using 'it's just a chicken coop' as an excuse. Nicely done! Best, Matt
PVC pipe is commonly heated at a low temperature so it can be placed in trenches and have to conform to rock ledges in the ground. If a larger diameter rounded surface needs sanded, I guess it could be designed to conform to the diameter of a concave surface. Automotive sandpaper comes on rolls with pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA) and stick to these tubes. A handle would be easy enough to make. I am just things of my back and sore elbows working on a 13 foot concave body line as found on a 67-72 Chevy C10 PU. A gentle sweeping curve from the door running back into the tail light on a fleet side model. Thanks kindly for the information.
I know the Chevy C-10 Pickup body curve you mention very well having done a full-body restoration on one I owned back in the '90's. Classic lines for sure! The main difference between lines on bodywork and lines in woodwork/millwork is that millwork profiles are consistent from end to end and piece to piece where, in bodywork, they tend to be compound curves that change shape along their length. As such, sanding blocks for one don't necessarily translate to the other but it's always great to have options to make a difficult task manageable IMHO.
@ You have that right. But my main benefit is having a long block that fits 4/5 feet at a time then switch to a different block. Just having a long concave block works for me. They produce blocks that are ridged acrylic, with or without handles. But sometimes it’s packing material foam inside a box that come around hoods, tailgates, fenders and other parts. Try a local body shop as new parts plus “LKQ” stuff shows up in the trash can. I worked with a local exhaust shop who simply charged metal salvage for new 2 1/2” 300 series stainless steel (Per-Cat) and 400 series stainless steel (Post-Cat) exhaust pipe complete. A customer bought it new at the dealership, drove it around, then two days later came in to replace catalytic converter back with new “Thrust” exhaust. I had a dozen bends and factory welds to take home about 12 feet of pipe (Times 2) for $22. You can’t beat that with a stick. They unbolted it and removed hangers without cutting and tossed in the pile behind the business. Same with body-shops. The only problem is the metal is super thin on new stuff and take a magnet as more aluminum is in the pile than ever!
I find sanding to be either exciting when I'm using a belt sander to clean up a piece of reclaimed wood (when what's under the dirt and grime is revealed), or therapeutic when using a random orbital sander to final-smooth a piece of work for assembly. Maybe I've not been doing woodworking long enough to dislike sanding. Nice yard stick collection!
@MattJackson , I just found your twin brother’s channel in France carpentry speaking. This guy does in-depth projects just like you do. Wish I spoke French, so I could understand what he was saying.He was he was using all metric measurements too.
I'm always learning from your videos and I want to say thank you. I have a question - I do not have a good source for sandpaper. Do you have a preferred source? I started to make your sanding blocks, but I have been unable to locate some of the different grits. Thanks for your help.
I have an extensive "library" of off-cuts turned into sanding "things" ... including dowel offcuts of various diameters at numerous lengths/grits, scraps of plywood, and all sorts of others ... from 40 grit to 600 grit. Nice video NLC. $0.02 I rarely use a wood file these days. $0.03
In your master closet drawer build you showed using a jointer to square the boards. How can this be done without a jointer (which I do not own)? Thanks. I enjoy your in depth videos. The length is not a concern for me because I actually learn the entire process.
@@NextLevelCarpentry I used to be able to get my kids to do some of that work for me, but they are all grown up now and wise to me when I say what great fun it is.
Hello, i just saw you’re video on the giant carpenters pencil that writes. I know my dad would love one of these as he’s a carpenter, with Christmas coming up I would like to know if you could possibly make one and sell me one?
Sounds like a nice thought for your father but unfortunately it's just not practical to make them for sale.... it would be some hundreds of dollars by the time I made all the arrangements made it shipped it Etc so unfortunately it's not practical for you or me. The best thing would be to find a local woodworker who could make it for you after watching this video... Best, Matt
Be very careful go slow cutting on a chopsaw. Pipe can chip out, or catch and go flying. Over time do they loosen up? Just a thought, if plastic shrinks when you heat it...? Will a heat gun or hairdryer restore the flex?
Hi Matt, you made two sawhorses a while back you stated in the last video : (Build these Professional Carpenter's Sawhorses) that you would build a Master set of sawhorses what happen???
I am still determined to do a video on my custom-designed master carpenter saw horses and regret that it takes so long to produce a video for a project like that. I have every intention of doing the build video but unfortunately my video production throughput is slow and delays projects like that much longer than I like. Thanks for your interest and patience and can only say that I don't think you'll be disappointed when I get to it... Best, Matt
I do hope it's okay I ask for advice here? Need some help and advice from anyone knowing something about bandsaws. I'm new to woodworking and I've found this new bandsaw with a 23% discount. But still quite expensive (+1100 dollars), and like all "normal" household electric, it runs with 220 v, and not 380 v like stoves and big electric tools, and yes, I've tried to find a cheaper used one, but they are all either a lot smaller or a lot bigger and the more expensive ones for pro woodworking. I just need a good bandsaw for hobby use and small projects, in my small work shop, but I often hear people say "don't buy too small, you'll regret it". And the small ones (even the used ones) are not cheap either. 1100 dollars is A LOT of money for me, but if anyone would recommend I don't buy too small, and this size is okay, there is another benefit when buying a new one: Here in Denmark, all new electrical machinery always comes with a 2-year warranty. It's not a top brand, but also not the worst. Sadly most reviews from private users come after the first cuts, and not after months of use. This one is a: Record Power BS350 Premium 14" Max cut debt: 230 mm (9 inch), Throat debt: 340 mm (13 inches) Table size: 548 x 500 mm (21 x 20 inch) Motor input P1: 1400 W (1,9 hp) & Motor output P2: 1100 W (1,5 hp) (I don't know about Amp, as we have 220 v and not 120 v) Blade length: 2620mm (103 1/2") & Blade width:1/4 - 3/4" Blade speed: 820 & 380 Meter/minute (2700 & 1300 ft per minute) Thank you SO much for reading all this, and all advice will be read and highly appreciated (y) /Pia
i disagree a little bit with the advice you have been given. Sometimes you are better off starting with a cheap tool, then as you learn how you will use it you can upgrade later on. A couple years from now, you might better understand how much you will use the band saw. You can sell your old one for not that much less than what you bought it for. Do you need to resaw boards? (splitting boards for thickness). Then you want one with a larger throat, and a steel yoke (no bolted extension) is better. If you will be using it for doing fine cuts in thin stock, then power is not as important as good quality blade guides and good blades. Get a good selection of them. Bearings are better than blocks for the blade guides, and they should be mechanically robust. If the bearings are the quick-adjust style you will use them more often. When you are setting up a shop there are almost limitless demands on your time, money, and space, so it's OK if your shop is a work in progress for years to come. If you can find a good used saw, that's a good solution often. It may not be easy to find one. The Next Level Carpenter is a professional and is very OCD about his work, which is good for attention to detail, I suppose, but your shop will not be like his
@@mriguy3202 Thank you so much! And that's why I haven't bought it yet and seeking advice, as there are multiple pro's and con's, and you are right in all you say. I will for sure take all your advice into consideration. Again, thank you very much 👍
Where are you man? You’ve been too quiet for a month now. Let us know what you’re making at the moment.
My apologies Rollo... thanks for asking!
I'm hard at it, working on a Master Class Build Video of my Master Carpenter's Footstool. The video is taking more time than hoped so I decided to do a shorter Christmas Star Ornament build video in the meantime that I hope to release next week. It will fill the gap before the Footstool video that should release before year's end. I don't like to push, but FYI, I do provide updates and behind the scenes info to patrons of Next Level Carpentry on Patreon where patron-only videos fill in gaps like this in TH-cam video production.😎
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry thanks Matt.
I really appreciate the great videos that you (plural) mature (polite for a fair bit older, but I’m not a green horn either) tradesmen upload.
The little tips really are put to use every day.
I tried making videos but they’re really really bad.
One day maybe I’ll have the space for a dry workshop and work on my presentation and editing skills.
@@rollovaughan Gotta tell you that creating even amateur level videos (which is how I still rate mine after 6 years) is the hardest new thing I've undertaken in my adult life. Anyone can do it, but it takes a different kind of determination to wrestle with all the digital, technical and social media stuff involved. Here's to hoping you get that dry workshop space sooner rather than later, whether or not you tackle the video production thing...
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry regarding cutting the pipes in this video, I found saving any broken Sawzall or hacksaw blades clamped teeth side up in a vice is a useful way to make use of a broken blade, and cut through any small pvc or vinyl parts. (You bring the part to the blade vs the blade to the part.) Not hard to set a jig up with a scrap block if you have a lot to do, but mounting the blade in the vice you can freehand a centerline pretty easily, or make some awkward cuts less awkward on almost any small pvc material.
When you were marking the pipe, I was trying to tell my screen to just screw or clamp a blade on top of the block and be done with it lol.
Another grood idea Matt. Thanks. I made the sanding boards and they work great.
I have an old yard stick. One of the wide older ones. Lambert Lumber, Building Materials, and Fuel. I keep it on top of a antique toolbox and saw till I cleaned up. Living room furniture for me and full of tools too.
I'm always impressed by your ingenious way of doing things as well as your attention to detail. Thank you for your channel and hard work.
You are quite welcome Rich thanks for the compliment comment and subscribing!
Best, Matt
Excellent video. Some very useful hints & tips. Keep up the good work.
You are a wizard!
Brilliant! Elegant and simple solution!!
I like the yard sticks. They turned the one my dad brought to Denmark in 72, when we moved from Toronto from a memory into a piece of history.
I really like how you have detailed, indepth and very innovative ideas, even on the simplest of processes. Very enjoyable Matt!
Thanks for sayin! Much appreciated..
Best, Matt
Nice commentary on the yard sticks!
Great idea. I made a few different sizes in the shop this afternoon. They work great!
They work so well you don't even have to use them often to make it worth the time it takes to make 'em IMHO 😎
It’s so easy to watch you Matt. And thanks for taking the writing off!
As usual, clever and practical uses for materials that we normally throw away. Thanks, Matt.
Love the wooden yard stick collection! We used to have a lot of those years ago.
Nice idea Matt. Thanks.
More good tips. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
I absolutely LOVE sanding Matt.... It's the whole reason I do woodworking; 😜😂😂😬😳
You CAN'T be serious... can you?! 🥴 😎
@@NextLevelCarpentry 😇🤕🤒🤔😜😂😂😂😂
That's a great idea. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing. I am in the process of making a hawaiian sailing canoe. The bottom shape is a half cirkel (180 degrees) with a 50 cm width /dia.. So if I use some sandpaper that is 10 cm wide. I will need ( if I dont want the block to wobble and sand uneven) a sanding block that curves (180 x 10) : 50 = 36 degrees. But Bow and stern curve more sharply. Here the sanding tube will be perfect. Thanks.
This is basically what I do when I need a sanding block with very specific properties:
th-cam.com/video/ze1yyAb7rUU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fpoxlADwKhYXIILN&t=2991
Should work for the variety of custom profiles and sizes you need....
Great video/idea! Thanks!
I buy rolls of 3M Stikit sandpaper. I stick it on dowels, cans, blocks, levels, even a bottle of sunscreen that had the right curve. The adhesive back lets you turn something like a putty knife into a sanding block with a handle and get into hard to reach areas easily (which I did this week fine sanding interior corners on a refinish project). I'll never go back to finding ways to secure my paper, I do far too much sanding to want more difficulty. Try it any you'll agree, it's so worth it. I like the 3M Blue, but wish they had the Cubitron abrasive in Stikit rolls. Oh well. All my sheet paper (and random orbital) is Cubitron, it's better than all the others on the market. Thanks for the video!
Brilliant idea
Good to see a comment from you Garviel... and thanks for letting me know!
Best, Matt
Simple and clever idea. Solves a lot of hassles .
Very nice trick (y)
Useful tip
Brilliant idea really enjoyed the video and your channel in general. I love the time you take to explain everything clearly and the craftsmanship is always superb.
All the best from Scotland ✌🏻
All the way from Scotland? No kidding?! THX Johnny,
One of my vendors has a yard stick that they still use. It has a 4 digit phone number and is from a business that used to occupy the same space 60 years ago.
7:28 relics indeed
Great tip. I'll be adding a set of these into my kit over the weekend. I didn't know about the contraction in pvc pipes. That's pretty interesting.
It seemed to me that that contraction is from internal tension in the plastic... it's just the right amount to make a perfect built-in spring clamp for holding sandpaper on all but the smallest size.
Best, Matt
Thank you for sharing ..
You're quite welcome... hope you find them useful, Rudy!
BTW I checked out the "Coop and Run" video you've posted on your Channel... my compliments to you on exceptionally clean workmanship on what many others might rush through sloppily using 'it's just a chicken coop' as an excuse. Nicely done! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry thank you
PVC pipe is commonly heated at a low temperature so it can be placed in trenches and have to conform to rock ledges in the ground. If a larger diameter rounded surface needs sanded, I guess it could be designed to conform to the diameter of a concave surface. Automotive sandpaper comes on rolls with pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA) and stick to these tubes. A handle would be easy enough to make. I am just things of my back and sore elbows working on a 13 foot concave body line as found on a 67-72 Chevy C10 PU. A gentle sweeping curve from the door running back into the tail light on a fleet side model.
Thanks kindly for the information.
I know the Chevy C-10 Pickup body curve you mention very well having done a full-body restoration on one I owned back in the '90's. Classic lines for sure! The main difference between lines on bodywork and lines in woodwork/millwork is that millwork profiles are consistent from end to end and piece to piece where, in bodywork, they tend to be compound curves that change shape along their length. As such, sanding blocks for one don't necessarily translate to the other but it's always great to have options to make a difficult task manageable IMHO.
@ You have that right. But my main benefit is having a long block that fits 4/5 feet at a time then switch to a different block. Just having a long concave block works for me. They produce blocks that are ridged acrylic, with or without handles. But sometimes it’s packing material foam inside a box that come around hoods, tailgates, fenders and other parts. Try a local body shop as new parts plus “LKQ” stuff shows up in the trash can.
I worked with a local exhaust shop who simply charged metal salvage for new 2 1/2” 300 series stainless steel (Per-Cat) and 400 series stainless steel (Post-Cat) exhaust pipe complete. A customer bought it new at the dealership, drove it around, then two days later came in to replace catalytic converter back with new “Thrust” exhaust. I had a dozen bends and factory welds to take home about 12 feet of pipe (Times 2) for $22. You can’t beat that with a stick. They unbolted it and removed hangers without cutting and tossed in the pile behind the business. Same with body-shops. The only problem is the metal is super thin on new stuff and take a magnet as more aluminum is in the pile than ever!
Good stuff
Thanks David... Blessings to you sir!
Best, Matt
Matt, do you have any dull putty knives? How do you make a “sharp” one?
Best,
Jim Fuller
I find sanding to be either exciting when I'm using a belt sander to clean up a piece of reclaimed wood (when what's under the dirt and grime is revealed), or therapeutic when using a random orbital sander to final-smooth a piece of work for assembly. Maybe I've not been doing woodworking long enough to dislike sanding.
Nice yard stick collection!
@MattJackson , I just found your twin brother’s channel in France carpentry speaking. This guy does in-depth projects just like you do. Wish I spoke French, so I could understand what he was saying.He was he was using all metric measurements too.
My Carpentry Doppelganger? How cool is THAT?! Merci beaucoup!!
Best, Matt
I'm always learning from your videos and I want to say thank you. I have a question - I do not have a good source for sandpaper. Do you have a preferred source? I started to make your sanding blocks, but I have been unable to locate some of the different grits. Thanks for your help.
What kind of table saw fence do you have.
I have an extensive "library" of off-cuts turned into sanding "things" ... including dowel offcuts of various diameters at numerous lengths/grits, scraps of plywood, and all sorts of others ... from 40 grit to 600 grit. Nice video NLC. $0.02 I rarely use a wood file these days. $0.03
In your master closet drawer build you showed using a jointer to square the boards. How can this be done without a jointer (which I do not own)? Thanks.
I enjoy your in depth videos. The length is not a concern for me because I actually learn the entire process.
Please re-ask your question in comments on the Master Closet Drawer Build video and I'll attempt to explain the simple process for you there... 😎
👍
Maybe you should produce a "Next Level Carpentry" yardstick for sale?
A pair of pliers would work as the wedge
If the short ones are yard sticks, what are the longer ones?
The longer ones are 48", also very helpful, for home projects.
A yardstick on steriods maybe?
Great idea…Oh, a small squirt of brake cleaner on a rag, will clean the writing off of those pvc pipes, pronto !
I hate sanding as much as you do. But I like the results.
Gotta make it easy on yourself because nobody's going to do it for you, right? 😶🌫
@@NextLevelCarpentry I used to be able to get my kids to do some of that work for me, but they are all grown up now and wise to me when I say what great fun it is.
@@twwtb the old Huck Finn effect has worn off then, eh? Now you've got to whitewash the fence all by your lonesome too!
Hello, i just saw you’re video on the giant carpenters pencil that writes. I know my dad would love one of these as he’s a carpenter, with Christmas coming up I would like to know if you could possibly make one and sell me one?
Sounds like a nice thought for your father but unfortunately it's just not practical to make them for sale.... it would be some hundreds of dollars by the time I made all the arrangements made it shipped it Etc so unfortunately it's not practical for you or me. The best thing would be to find a local woodworker who could make it for you after watching this video...
Best, Matt
👍👍👍👍
I don’t hate sanding. And I totally understand the minor case of OCD related to removing the ink…
Be very careful go slow cutting on a chopsaw. Pipe can chip out, or catch and go flying.
Over time do they loosen up?
Just a thought, if plastic shrinks when you heat it...? Will a heat gun or hairdryer restore the flex?
Hi Matt, you made two sawhorses a while back you stated in the last video : (Build these Professional Carpenter's Sawhorses) that you would build a Master set of sawhorses what happen???
I am still determined to do a video on my custom-designed master carpenter saw horses and regret that it takes so long to produce a video for a project like that. I have every intention of doing the build video but unfortunately my video production throughput is slow and delays projects like that much longer than I like. Thanks for your interest and patience and can only say that I don't think you'll be disappointed when I get to it...
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I know I will not be Disappointed you are a Master Carpenter. And thanks for replying back to me.
@@rigger8609 a master Carpenter maybe... but a video production wannabe😥 thanks again for your interest in the project..
@@NextLevelCarpentry Your videos are great I really like when you play the twin.
I do hope it's okay I ask for advice here?
Need some help and advice from anyone knowing something about bandsaws.
I'm new to woodworking and I've found this new bandsaw with a 23% discount.
But still quite expensive (+1100 dollars), and like all "normal" household electric,
it runs with 220 v, and not 380 v like stoves and big electric tools, and yes, I've tried to
find a cheaper used one, but they are all either a lot smaller or a lot bigger and the more expensive ones for pro woodworking.
I just need a good bandsaw for hobby use and small projects, in my small work shop, but
I often hear people say "don't buy too small, you'll regret it". And the small ones (even the used ones) are not cheap either.
1100 dollars is A LOT of money for me, but if anyone would recommend I don't buy too small, and this size is okay, there is another benefit when buying a new one:
Here in Denmark, all new electrical machinery always comes with a 2-year warranty.
It's not a top brand, but also not the worst. Sadly most reviews from private users come after the first cuts, and not after months of use.
This one is a: Record Power BS350 Premium 14"
Max cut debt: 230 mm (9 inch), Throat debt: 340 mm (13 inches)
Table size: 548 x 500 mm (21 x 20 inch)
Motor input P1: 1400 W (1,9 hp) & Motor output P2: 1100 W (1,5 hp)
(I don't know about Amp, as we have 220 v and not 120 v)
Blade length: 2620mm (103 1/2") & Blade width:1/4 - 3/4"
Blade speed: 820 & 380 Meter/minute (2700 & 1300 ft per minute)
Thank you SO much for reading all this, and all advice will be read and
highly appreciated (y)
/Pia
i disagree a little bit with the advice you have been given. Sometimes you are better off starting with a cheap tool, then as you learn how you will use it you can upgrade later on. A couple years from now, you might better understand how much you will use the band saw. You can sell your old one for not that much less than what you bought it for.
Do you need to resaw boards? (splitting boards for thickness). Then you want one with a larger throat, and a steel yoke (no bolted extension) is better. If you will be using it for doing fine cuts in thin stock, then power is not as important as good quality blade guides and good blades. Get a good selection of them. Bearings are better than blocks for the blade guides, and they should be mechanically robust. If the bearings are the quick-adjust style you will use them more often.
When you are setting up a shop there are almost limitless demands on your time, money, and space, so it's OK if your shop is a work in progress for years to come.
If you can find a good used saw, that's a good solution often. It may not be easy to find one.
The Next Level Carpenter is a professional and is very OCD about his work, which is good for attention to detail, I suppose, but your shop will not be like his
@@mriguy3202 Thank you so much! And that's why I haven't bought it yet and seeking advice, as there are multiple pro's and con's, and you are right in all you say.
I will for sure take all your advice into consideration.
Again, thank you very much 👍
Would not be NLC without taking the writing off those pipes