i just got a jobsite tablesaw and decided i wanted to make some wooden boxes for christmas. alas... NO DADO! and this jig just saved the day! brilliant jig! subbed immediately!
Awesome, I hope they came out great! 👍 (Also big congrats to youtube for not showing me a bunch of comments from December until now...)
3 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Hello Mario, This is a really cool jig. Very very good for joint joints. convenient and practical. Thank you for showing and explaining in detail. See you. Big greetings. Kind regards.
got your plans, implemented, tested, made it. got perfect results for 70cm width oak table ! made my wife super happy. thanks! few notes - different wood types (soft vs hard) behave diffarently. make your test and tune the pin on same wood you use - saw creates small cracks/chips. need to use fine saw (more teeth) and work slowly. must say I haven't fully resolved that.
Oh that's awesome, well done! If you have any pics of the table to share, I'd love to see them! As for the cracks/chips, is that possibly tear-out? If so, drop a sacrificial backer piece in behind your actual workpieces when you're cutting, and it should resolve your problem. Send an email with pics if it's something else and I'll try help diagnose it. 👍
Lovely idea and the best bit is using a drill bit for the key - that will be one fewer in my embarrassingly large pile of blunt drill bits waiting for me to be bored enough to sharpen them!
Very nice Mario, thank you for sharing this with us! I made one this afternoon after watching your great videos, I added a T track to the front of mine though so I can use (homemade Rockler style) hold down clamps to hold my boards rather than F clamps.
Hi, i have done universal unlimited box joint jig from inspired by you. I have 5x5 1cm thick squares on the back. For cutting, I have 3x5 and 1 cm cross-sectional areas. I change and apply the pattern according to the cutting model. I'm not as professional as you, but thank you for inspiring me and guiding me.
ahahah, I'm sure people didn't mean it like that.... 😂🤣 ok yeah we know they did. I'm here to validate people and make them feel goodd about themselves, it's all good! 😂
I was gonna watch a few times to make myself but decided paying AU$9 for plans would save some heartache down the track. I WAS RIGHT! PDF is easy to follow and it worked 1st time I tried. Very happy camper.
I knocked up the original & yes it works as advertised. Bravo. Definitely worthwhile re-building to have a more polished version (& pay my dues of course). Another Bravo from me.
Cheers John, very much appreciated! Yep, when I first designed this one I was quite new to the tablesaw, so keeping my fingers away from the sharp bits was a hard requirement. (I mean, keeping my fingers away from the blade is _still_ a hard requirement, but now at least I respect it, not fear it. 😉 )
Seems like you have to make a new sacrificial fence every time you change the keys? Or even with same keys on second use if you want to prevent tear out?
Woodfather! Dumb question for you (or anyone else familiar with the jig): if you want a looser joint the pin needs to be slightly larger than the kerf of your blade? This seems counterintuitive to me? Can someone affirm and clarify?
oh my god Matthew, thankyou, I've just rewatched this video and I've mispoke! 🫨 If the joint is too tight, your key is too wide; And if your joint is too loose, your key is too thin. I can't believe I've never noticed that before, I must have watched this 100 times when editing and seemingly missed it each time. 🤦♂ I've checked the plans and the build video, and they're all good, but yep, I've said the wrong thing here, you're correct, other way round!
@@woodfather Thanks for the quick reply. I just purchased the plans off your site. Do you have a straight pdf instead of that other file type? If you don't no problem. Love your videos and the great humor!!
@@matthewn2559 the purchase is a zip file, and inside that you get a PDF and then a couple SketchUp models. You don't need the models though, that's just a bonus for people who want to visualise changes before cutting wood.
Bloody cool mate, i built a similR one a wile back based on a guy called Drew, Fischers shop, I think his channel is, but it never worked well an now I know why.......the KEY! The key is The key. The key the key!!! Cheers dude, gonna look at it tomorrow if I still have it out there.
Hey Rob, yep I know Fishers Shop & his jig design, he uses the same principles as mine, but implements it differently. If only my original video got the views his one did 3 years later lol. And yep, the key is the key 😄
Nice your solution for a finger connection. I have always been taught (furniture maker) that le begins with a finger and ends with a finger in a part. Obviously start the other part with a hole and end with a hole.
Yep, that makes more sense aesthetically, and probably strength wise too. However for test joints like these, or even boxes, I wouldn't think it necessary, if this was a nice furniture piece that had a structural component to it, then yep, you'd want to have it look symmetrical. To be clear, this jig does that as well, I just didn't set it up for that style in this video. 👍 Cheers Geert
Mate, that is an awesome customised box joint jig! 👍🏽 Once it's all together and tuned it works like a charm, and with a customisable width of cut means only one jig needed for any size box😳😉 Top notch, Mario, absolutely love it.👌🏽
That is an awesome jig. You think l can use a 1/4 daddo blade with a key of the same ticknest as the dado stack. Thinking that will do the job a little faster
Here's a suggestion for the box that supports the keys, make it a box, and attach a Shop-Vac hose to one end, then all that sawdust that lasts all over the place will end up in your shop vac instead of all over your table saw and in your face? Just a thought. Love your jig! That's what she said.
@@woodfather You're welcome! Standing behind the saw, I'd put the 1.25-1.5" hole for the shop vac to the left. Once you make your first joint cut, you'll have a clearance hole behind the cut where you'd want to concentrate the suction, so I'd do like a 1/2" hole at the opposite end to let it breathe a bit so we don't "choke/starve" the shop vac when placing the uncut board on the jig. (Or maybe do a larger hole with a thin cover that can be swung across it to fine tune the bypass airflow?)
Ooh! Use this on a router table with a dovetail bit for a custom dovetail jig. I think you could also make it work with a table saw with a bit of fiddling.
I did try many years ago to convert this to do dovetails on the tablesaw, with limited success. Shortly afterwards though, StumpyNubs came out with a tablesaw dovetail jig that looked beautifully simple as well. I haven't built his, but I liked the design so much I decided I didn't need to work on my own. 👍
Thank you Bob, I really appreciate that. I ended up getting this apron based on a recommendation from Paul - The Wood Knight. I was on the fence before I got it, but now I put it on as soon as I get out to the shop, absolutely love it. I think it's more mental than anything, but when I put it on, it's like a uniform, I'm in 'woodwork' mode. 😊 www.amazon.com.au/Bucket-Boss-80300-Duckwear-SuperShop/dp/B00GK4U3SO?dchild=1&keywords=bucket+boss+apron&qid=1622026979&sr=8-2&linkCode=sl1&tag=thewoodknig01-22&linkId=5083bbc236736f2f1b1c1ae60a575dc7&language=en_AU&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
@@woodfather yeah mate! It's just been one thing after the other for me, and in between house moves. Once the garage at the new place is set up fiirst thing am doing is making you a cool ass bevel gauge.
Same camera but I'm learning how to use my lighting a bit better, I also figured as I was talking so much I better change the angles up or it would get super boring super quick! 😉
@@woodfather Also, if you are struggling to find a "key" that exactly matches your blade kerf, remember Jodie's tip over at Inspire Woodworks - th-cam.com/video/nsw5qlrdx2A/w-d-xo.html
@@1963uspl Do you know, I actually had this tip in the first draft for this video! 😄 I gave it a couple tests though, and while the technique is great and does exactly what he says, it just felt harder gluing that hardwood tab into the slider - and then I found the fit was extremely hard to dial in if it wasn't perfect right off the bat. I think that method gives perfect kerf thickness strips, but what you actually need is something that is just a fraction off in size, that way you leave enough room for glue. Definitely an option though, I'll probably work it into the build video as an extra tip. 👍
I'm thinking of making a box, jointed like this with really thick sides, then whacking it on the lathe and seeing what happens. 😂 If I never post it, you know it didn't turn out well 🤣
Got my copy of the plans can't wait to make the Mario 😊 just bought a 6mm curf flat tooth blade as well so should work a treat. Thanks mate, I'll share this on my community page as well its brilliant.
Well done Mario. I think this jig works better with a router. However, can't you think of a way to cut all the for sides in just one go? I hope to see another update ASAP, with my thanks in advance. Good luck.
Hi Hasan, you 100% can cut all four sides at once, I just tend not to. 😉 When I cut two at once, it's lighter and easier to slide the sled back and forth, when I cut 4 it can get a heavier, especially once the dust builds up, which makes me exert more effort. Not the end of the world, but when I'm on the tablesaw I try to keep my movements lighter and more fluid, makes me feel a bit safer. 👍👍 Chers for watching, make sure you're subbed as in a week or two I should have a further video out which shows some really cool things you can do with this jig with no modifications.
Cheers Trevor. I really need to do a high quality follow up. Not only is it good for standard box joints, you can also do patterns and variable spaced joints, just as easily. 👍
This jig is brilliant! After doing some googling it seems my Evolution Rage5S table saw doesn't support dado blades, plus I didn't realise how expensive a decent dado blade was. Anyways, more googling put me onto your jig which I built and then used yesterday to create perfect box joints for a 250mm deep drawer I'm building. My blade kerf is only 2mm so this meant my jig key is thin and I was worried about it flexing/bending, when cutting the left and right sides. I initially tried a 2mm drill bit (as per your suggestion) but the joints were sloppy and didn't seem to improve even when I shimmed the key (drill bit) down a bit. However, at this point, I was using 12mm plywood as spacers and noted, that although tight in the tray, they had slight imperfections in spacing etc. So, I moved to 16mm MDF for the spacers which were much cleaner and more consistent but the saving grace (I think) was using a 2mm Allen/Hex Key as the jig key. It was tight in the 2mm drill hole (for the original drill bit) and just worked!. But I also realised an advantage of an Allen Key is if you start with the key flat/square, i.e., the key arm parallel/following the blade direction then your jig key is the Allen Key size, in my case 2mm spot on, then, if you need slightly more key width, you can turn the key arm slight, introducing a bit more key width due to the hexagonal angles in the Allen Key. Thanks again for sharing this brilliant jig idea.
Many thanks Tony! They are the very same two reasons that drove me to design the jig in the first place, cost of a dado set, and at the time I wasn't sure if my saw could even take one. (Turns out it can, but I've never felt the need to buy one since. 😊) A 2mm kerf, that seems super duper thin, is that a special finishing blade or something like that? Good tip with allen key, yep, giving it a little swivel can be all the fine adjustment you need. I would have replied a couple days ago but I was busy putting together a follow up video to this jig, check my channel you'll find it there. It's all about how you can use this jig to make boxjoints with variable width fingers, so one joint can be comprised of fingers which are 12mm, 36mm, 4mm, etc, and it all still works just as easily. 👍 Cheers for watching!
getting set to purchase the plans but have question first. i would like to be able to use wider stock so it is as easy as just making the whole jig wider? Thank you. Great job. cant wait
That is effectively correct, however there is a limitation as to how wide you can go, it simply gets quite unwieldy to maneuver when you cut wider and longer pieces. How wide are you thinking?
I do not really have an exact width need but figured i would make it as large as reasonable so I have options. What would be the widest you woud build it. Thank you so much.
True, many ways to skin a cat...or to make a box joint... 😄 I've experimented with different 'keys' along the way, one I really liked was was an allen key that I ground an angle into, I could spin it slightly to tweak the cut.
Great job mate.. Really impressed by how easy u make this jig work and look bro.. I will be looking at the plans too btw.. I salute u SIR!!! Hello from Dublin, IRE.
I like how you're doing both pieces at once, that can only help accuracy. I was wondering if some sort of parking mirror hanging over the top would help so you can see what's going on :)
Hi Chris, that's a good idea, I've seen a few people do that to their own ones. I toyed with it once, but I found for me that I watch the travel of the key back and forth, so it didn't add a huge amount of value. I think they extended the sled at the front, and positioned one of those little curved glass mirrors so it could be offset from the blade, and still show everything you need to see.
Thanks Mario, I've been looking for a box joint jig for a while, watched dozens of YT videos, and this is by far the best I've seen, it looks easy enough for me to make (just a novice wood worker). I was also thinking of using 6mm acrylic sheet for the template blocks and doubling or tripling them up to make bigger/smaller fingers, do you think this would work ok? Has anyone tried this? Also I was thinking of putting a threaded bar through all the template blocks so they are permanently secured to the jig, I would have to round off the bottom of the blocks so they stand up and lay flat without removing them from the threaded bar (hope that makes sense) Do you think that will work? Any advice is much appreciated, and thanks again.
Hiya Warren, missed this comment sorry. So, acrylic sheet, I think it might be too flexible to be honest. I would suspect 6mm plywood or mdf to be stiffer, and that's what you really need in the fingers, they have to resist you pushing sideways on them or the joint will be cut oversize. As for the bar and rounding them over, yep I've seen a couple like that. I haven't done it as it is a little more work and I've not felt the need, but also, I like to try different thicknesses and styles, so being forced to work in multiples of 6mm or 8mm or whatever the thinnest finger is doesn't appeal. However, if you are making this for a purpose and you know you will always want fingers of those size, having them permanently mounted on the jig may be worth the effort. 👍 Cheers, mario
It’s really two for the price of one Mario, clever jig that has purpose mate, love this concept & your contribution to #woodjigs21 Awesome entry mate 🇦🇺🍻👍
Hi Marty, apologies, I missed this comment. If you bought the plans, there is a link to a private step-by-step build video where I work my way through the PDF plans and demonstrate each step. Check the zip file for a txt file named readme.txt for the link. Or, send me an email and I'll reply soon as possible.
Hi Jan, it is, though it probably depends on what you define as small. 😉 I'm using it to make some boxes this weekend which are about 200mm by 180mm, but you can go smaller. The trickiest part might be figuring out a clamping method if you go that small, but a little bit of creative thinking and it should be fine. 👍
@@woodfather thx Mario, if you look on my logo, you See that kind of small boxes, f.I. Juwelery boxes and my logo shows little music box. Your Jig is also suitable for these kind of job. I have to try . I Will study your video again and consider… Many thanks for your kind explanation and much Greetings from us again. Your folower , Jan🌷🌷
hi a couple of days ago I purchased plans for box joint jig but am unable to locate it in email also tried spam.never had problems before David Adelaide
Hi David, I've resent your email, sorry about that - let me know if it doesn't arrive. My site has been running pretty slow lately, I'm taking that up with my provider to see if they can spot what the problem is. And finally, thanks a lot for purchasing the plans, much appreciated!
Worth the wait! If I had a table saw I'd be over there in a second.... wait, let me just go drop $1500 and then I can spend $15 more 😂 Awesome stuff Mario and a top addition to the playlist. Certainly giving the judges something to think about!
Hah, when you buy a tablesaw mate, i'll send you a jig! (Well, the plans for one at least! 😋) Congrats on running the challenge, sorry it took so long to get on board!
Good thing to rename it, the acronym TWSSSBBJJFTT doesn't directly roll of the tongue either... 😅 Looks really effective for making box joints. If only I had a table saw... 🙄
The key being too thick should make a tighter fit, and a smaller one a looser; as it seems to me, but this is the second video who has said this so am I misunderstanding what is happening? Hypothetical, take a perfect key with a great fit..... add a mm or 2, and it would cut less wood away making it tighter ro fit (as I understand) or thin it the same and more wood would be cut making it looser (am I crazy?)
I have maybe seen the same videos, and (as I haven't made the jig yet) didn't really worry about the exact fit - but your logic seems right to me! I just found this video which agrees with you: th-cam.com/video/q7_Q1eVa_N4/w-d-xo.html
So if you used a set of stacked dado cutters for the saw, it would make it even quicker and easier. As you wouldn't have all the passes to carve out the centre of the dados. Fantastic!
@@woodfather i did and you acknowledged the original free plan. My comment was to the improved plan, I think $15 for a plan is overpriced compared to other makers that offer 3 jigs for less than that and also show a snap shot of the quality of the plans. This is the first video I have seen from you so I have no relationship with your content so while $15 isn't alot to support a maker, I support others, the price in my opinion is expensive. I'll look forward to watching your other content and support as necessary. I hope this makes sense?
Sorry Mario. Bought the plans, put it all together, didn't work. Listened to your advice on it not working first time and re-made the front fence with a considerably smaller key. Still didn't work. Ground down the key to even smaller (any smaller and it would have bent when pressured, still with no luck. Tore it all down, reclaimed as much as possible and went looking for another jig. Not a good experience.
"If your joint is too loose, that means your key is too thick". Huh? Isn't that backwards? If the key is too thick, it seems like you will not be cutting out enough material for the spaces, making the joint too tight. If the key were way too thick, as thick as the spaces in the template, then you would only cut out one-saw-kerf spaces and the joint would be way too tight.
Holy cow, yep, I made a mistake there. 😮 I would have watched this video around 40 times while editing it, and somehow failed to notice that. 😐 The plans are correct in their explanation of the key, but yep, I stuffed up in here, good pickup.
I mean, there are probably plenty of reasons to not take my woodworking advice, but a pencil that I use for marking on rough wood is a strange one to focus on. 🤷♂️
I really like the idea of this jig, but when watching the video, I kept wondering why the hell that damned music was added to the background. It doesn't add anything to the video. On the contrary, it detracts from the quality of the video. It's just an annoying distraction. Why do so many you-tubers do this?!?!
This is by far the best box cutting jig!
Who knows who was the first with this idea. What I see is the best implementation of it. Great idea, good, simple design and it works. Thanks mate.
I know who was first 😉 You can find the original video on my channel, from, oh god, like 8 or 9 years ago now? Man that's gone quick 😲 Cheers!
That is a very clever design. I have made a few box joint jigs and this is the first time I have seen one like yours!
Thanks mate, I designed it originally as I couldn't be bothered cutting out gears like so many of the others that were out there lol
Bravo young man 👍👍 Love it. 👍😁🇦🇺
Thanks Shane, I watched the video again, but I still can't see the young man you're referring to! 😆
i just got a jobsite tablesaw and decided i wanted to make some wooden boxes for christmas. alas... NO DADO! and this jig just saved the day! brilliant jig! subbed immediately!
Awesome, I hope they came out great! 👍 (Also big congrats to youtube for not showing me a bunch of comments from December until now...)
Hello Mario,
This is a really cool jig. Very very good for joint joints. convenient and practical. Thank you for showing and explaining in detail. See you. Big greetings. Kind regards.
Thanks Mehmet, glad you like it! 👍👍
@@woodfather 👍👏👏👏
Perfect timing…now, I will have to watch this video 30 times before I can build my own Finger Joint Jig! Great Jig man, its a KEEPER.
got your plans, implemented, tested, made it. got perfect results for 70cm width oak table ! made my wife super happy. thanks!
few notes
- different wood types (soft vs hard) behave diffarently. make your test and tune the pin on same wood you use
- saw creates small cracks/chips. need to use fine saw (more teeth) and work slowly.
must say I haven't fully resolved that.
Oh that's awesome, well done! If you have any pics of the table to share, I'd love to see them! As for the cracks/chips, is that possibly tear-out? If so, drop a sacrificial backer piece in behind your actual workpieces when you're cutting, and it should resolve your problem. Send an email with pics if it's something else and I'll try help diagnose it. 👍
Excellent way of making Box finger joint, thanks for the video. Amazing design.
Many thanks, cheers for the kind words! 👍
Lovely idea and the best bit is using a drill bit for the key - that will be one fewer in my embarrassingly large pile of blunt drill bits waiting for me to be bored enough to sharpen them!
One thing I'd like to have is a way to have different key sizes for different blades. Thinking...
Very nice Mario, thank you for sharing this with us! I made one this afternoon after watching your great videos, I added a T track to the front of mine though so I can use (homemade Rockler style) hold down clamps to hold my boards rather than F clamps.
Ahh, t-track 🤦♂ I have a bunch of spare t-track lying around but never thought to use it! Might have to add that on the next version! Great idea 👍
Hi, i have done universal unlimited box joint jig from inspired by you. I have 5x5 1cm thick squares on the back. For cutting, I have 3x5 and 1 cm cross-sectional areas. I change and apply the pattern according to the cutting model. I'm not as professional as you, but thank you for inspiring me and guiding me.
That sounds awesome, send some photos over, would love to see it! 👍
the best I ever saw, congrats and thank you! I will make one for router table
ahahah, I'm sure people didn't mean it like that.... 😂🤣 ok yeah we know they did. I'm here to validate people and make them feel goodd about themselves, it's all good! 😂
Great video, light hearted, precise without fluff 👌
Thanks Christoph, that was one of the aims of the video, get to the point without dragging it out 😊
Thanks Mario. Bought the plans and looking forward to building. Great Jig, especially since my Table saw does not take a Dado stack.
You legend, thanks so much, yell out if you have any trouble, happy to help! 😀👍
I was gonna watch a few times to make myself but decided paying AU$9 for plans would save some heartache down the track. I WAS RIGHT! PDF is easy to follow and it worked 1st time I tried. Very happy camper.
That's fantastic to hear, thanks Dale! Always good to know the plans have worked out well for someone, cheers!
I knocked up the original & yes it works as advertised. Bravo. Definitely worthwhile re-building to have a more polished version (& pay my dues of course). Another Bravo from me.
Many thanks, I hope it works well for you! 😊
Just bought the plans, great jig, cant wait to get building.
That's awesome David, many thanks! Best of luck with the build!
This is a great design - particularly as it keeps your fingers well away from the blade. Subscribed
Cheers John, very much appreciated! Yep, when I first designed this one I was quite new to the tablesaw, so keeping my fingers away from the sharp bits was a hard requirement. (I mean, keeping my fingers away from the blade is _still_ a hard requirement, but now at least I respect it, not fear it. 😉 )
Seems like you have to make a new sacrificial fence every time you change the keys? Or even with same keys on second use if you want to prevent tear out?
Woodfather! Dumb question for you (or anyone else familiar with the jig): if you want a looser joint the pin needs to be slightly larger than the kerf of your blade? This seems counterintuitive to me? Can someone affirm and clarify?
oh my god Matthew, thankyou, I've just rewatched this video and I've mispoke! 🫨 If the joint is too tight, your key is too wide; And if your joint is too loose, your key is too thin. I can't believe I've never noticed that before, I must have watched this 100 times when editing and seemingly missed it each time. 🤦♂ I've checked the plans and the build video, and they're all good, but yep, I've said the wrong thing here, you're correct, other way round!
@@woodfather Thanks for the quick reply. I just purchased the plans off your site. Do you have a straight pdf instead of that other file type? If you don't no problem. Love your videos and the great humor!!
@@matthewn2559 the purchase is a zip file, and inside that you get a PDF and then a couple SketchUp models. You don't need the models though, that's just a bonus for people who want to visualise changes before cutting wood.
@@matthewn2559 and thanks! 🙏
@@woodfather Got the pdf figured!!
Bloody cool mate, i built a similR one a wile back based on a guy called Drew, Fischers shop, I think his channel is, but it never worked well an now I know why.......the KEY! The key is The key. The key the key!!! Cheers dude, gonna look at it tomorrow if I still have it out there.
Hey Rob, yep I know Fishers Shop & his jig design, he uses the same principles as mine, but implements it differently. If only my original video got the views his one did 3 years later lol. And yep, the key is the key 😄
Nice your solution for a finger connection.
I have always been taught (furniture maker) that le begins with a finger and ends with a finger in a part. Obviously start the other part with a hole and end with a hole.
Yep, that makes more sense aesthetically, and probably strength wise too. However for test joints like these, or even boxes, I wouldn't think it necessary, if this was a nice furniture piece that had a structural component to it, then yep, you'd want to have it look symmetrical. To be clear, this jig does that as well, I just didn't set it up for that style in this video. 👍 Cheers Geert
Mate, that is an awesome customised box joint jig! 👍🏽
Once it's all together and tuned it works like a charm, and with a customisable width of cut means only one jig needed for any size box😳😉
Top notch, Mario, absolutely love it.👌🏽
Cheers Bill, much appreciated! 👍👍
That is an awesome jig. You think l can use a 1/4 daddo blade with a key of the same ticknest as the dado stack. Thinking that will do the job a little faster
You can yep, I've seen a few people make them like that, speeds it up a bit for sure 👍
Here's a suggestion for the box that supports the keys, make it a box, and attach a Shop-Vac hose to one end, then all that sawdust that lasts all over the place will end up in your shop vac instead of all over your table saw and in your face? Just a thought. Love your jig! That's what she said.
Woah, that's the first time I've heard that suggestion - it's a great idea 😮 I'll have to redo the plans now 😄 Thanks Paul!
@@woodfather You're welcome! Standing behind the saw, I'd put the 1.25-1.5" hole for the shop vac to the left. Once you make your first joint cut, you'll have a clearance hole behind the cut where you'd want to concentrate the suction, so I'd do like a 1/2" hole at the opposite end to let it breathe a bit so we don't "choke/starve" the shop vac when placing the uncut board on the jig. (Or maybe do a larger hole with a thin cover that can be swung across it to fine tune the bypass airflow?)
Ooh! Use this on a router table with a dovetail bit for a custom dovetail jig. I think you could also make it work with a table saw with a bit of fiddling.
I did try many years ago to convert this to do dovetails on the tablesaw, with limited success. Shortly afterwards though, StumpyNubs came out with a tablesaw dovetail jig that looked beautifully simple as well. I haven't built his, but I liked the design so much I decided I didn't need to work on my own. 👍
Grande! Mi sembra veramente il più semplice, facile da realizzare ed utilizzare! Geniale! Lo costrurò sicuramente. Grazie
Grazie Diego, in bocca al lupo per costruirlo!
Great jig Mate. One for me to buy and build if I ever get a table saw!
I'm really fond of this jig, definitely one for the to do list. Cheers!
Cheer's Sam, it works so well!
Looks pretty slick, I like it!
Thanks John, the end result always surprises me how well it turns out!
Is the plan available with imperial measurements?
Great jig Mario! Box jigs are nice and clean 👍🏽
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😄
Love your work mate. Tim from Demtel eat your heart out!! 😂
No free steak knives here 😂
@@woodfather 😂😂😂
Just got the plans , looking forward to seeing the build video. Where did you get the apron? I'm in Sydney looking for a decent apron
Thank you Bob, I really appreciate that. I ended up getting this apron based on a recommendation from Paul - The Wood Knight.
I was on the fence before I got it, but now I put it on as soon as I get out to the shop, absolutely love it. I think it's more mental than anything, but when I put it on, it's like a uniform, I'm in 'woodwork' mode. 😊
www.amazon.com.au/Bucket-Boss-80300-Duckwear-SuperShop/dp/B00GK4U3SO?dchild=1&keywords=bucket+boss+apron&qid=1622026979&sr=8-2&linkCode=sl1&tag=thewoodknig01-22&linkId=5083bbc236736f2f1b1c1ae60a575dc7&language=en_AU&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
Waow this really game changer for my ws. Big thanks sir.
Love it mate! ❤️❤️❤️
Cheers Vipun! Also, we need to get on that tool swap we were supposed to do six months ago 😄
@@woodfather yeah mate! It's just been one thing after the other for me, and in between house moves. Once the garage at the new place is set up fiirst thing am doing is making you a cool ass bevel gauge.
Hi Mario
Nice new video and some more interesting camera angles. New camera or lighting perhaps ?
Nice jig too
Same camera but I'm learning how to use my lighting a bit better, I also figured as I was talking so much I better change the angles up or it would get super boring super quick! 😉
@@woodfather Also, if you are struggling to find a "key" that exactly matches your blade kerf, remember Jodie's tip over at Inspire Woodworks - th-cam.com/video/nsw5qlrdx2A/w-d-xo.html
@@1963uspl Do you know, I actually had this tip in the first draft for this video! 😄 I gave it a couple tests though, and while the technique is great and does exactly what he says, it just felt harder gluing that hardwood tab into the slider - and then I found the fit was extremely hard to dial in if it wasn't perfect right off the bat. I think that method gives perfect kerf thickness strips, but what you actually need is something that is just a fraction off in size, that way you leave enough room for glue. Definitely an option though, I'll probably work it into the build video as an extra tip. 👍
Definitely worth the wait to see the end result. A great edit & looks like it'll be a useful jig. Nice one Mario!
Cheers Jamie, it was a mad rush to get it out, been meaning to do it for about 2 years now so lucky James put this challenge on 😁
Do all the fingers have to be the same width or can there be a variable width pattern? Thanks
They can be variable width Ken, check it out here! --> th-cam.com/video/EyJof__nTR4/w-d-xo.html
@@woodfather Good stuff, Thanks
Thats a pretty awesome jig there Mario ! If I ever do that kind of joinery Ill buy a set of plans and build one. Keep up the great work, Cheers Mate !
I'm thinking of making a box, jointed like this with really thick sides, then whacking it on the lathe and seeing what happens. 😂 If I never post it, you know it didn't turn out well 🤣
Got my copy of the plans can't wait to make the Mario 😊 just bought a 6mm curf flat tooth blade as well so should work a treat. Thanks mate, I'll share this on my community page as well its brilliant.
That's killer, thanks so much Karl, hope it helps you out! 👍👍
Had the same idea. Built.mine about 2 months ago with the same basic design :). Nicely done mate :)
Nice one Damian, good and simple isn't it? 👍
Well done Mario. I think this jig works better with a router. However, can't you think of a way to cut all the for sides in just one go? I hope to see another update ASAP, with my thanks in advance. Good luck.
Hi Hasan, you 100% can cut all four sides at once, I just tend not to. 😉 When I cut two at once, it's lighter and easier to slide the sled back and forth, when I cut 4 it can get a heavier, especially once the dust builds up, which makes me exert more effort. Not the end of the world, but when I'm on the tablesaw I try to keep my movements lighter and more fluid, makes me feel a bit safer. 👍👍 Chers for watching, make sure you're subbed as in a week or two I should have a further video out which shows some really cool things you can do with this jig with no modifications.
Thanks mate. Absolutely I became a subscriber and I can't wait long to see the upcoming videos. So, don't be late.
Good one mate, looks less complicated and more robust than a lot of other jigs I’ve seen on the tube
Cheers Trevor. I really need to do a high quality follow up. Not only is it good for standard box joints, you can also do patterns and variable spaced joints, just as easily. 👍
You‘re Genius 😊👍 Thx for that.
Cheers!
This jig is brilliant! After doing some googling it seems my Evolution Rage5S table saw doesn't support dado blades, plus I didn't realise how expensive a decent dado blade was. Anyways, more googling put me onto your jig which I built and then used yesterday to create perfect box joints for a 250mm deep drawer I'm building. My blade kerf is only 2mm so this meant my jig key is thin and I was worried about it flexing/bending, when cutting the left and right sides. I initially tried a 2mm drill bit (as per your suggestion) but the joints were sloppy and didn't seem to improve even when I shimmed the key (drill bit) down a bit. However, at this point, I was using 12mm plywood as spacers and noted, that although tight in the tray, they had slight imperfections in spacing etc. So, I moved to 16mm MDF for the spacers which were much cleaner and more consistent but the saving grace (I think) was using a 2mm Allen/Hex Key as the jig key. It was tight in the 2mm drill hole (for the original drill bit) and just worked!. But I also realised an advantage of an Allen Key is if you start with the key flat/square, i.e., the key arm parallel/following the blade direction then your jig key is the Allen Key size, in my case 2mm spot on, then, if you need slightly more key width, you can turn the key arm slight, introducing a bit more key width due to the hexagonal angles in the Allen Key. Thanks again for sharing this brilliant jig idea.
Many thanks Tony! They are the very same two reasons that drove me to design the jig in the first place, cost of a dado set, and at the time I wasn't sure if my saw could even take one. (Turns out it can, but I've never felt the need to buy one since. 😊) A 2mm kerf, that seems super duper thin, is that a special finishing blade or something like that? Good tip with allen key, yep, giving it a little swivel can be all the fine adjustment you need. I would have replied a couple days ago but I was busy putting together a follow up video to this jig, check my channel you'll find it there. It's all about how you can use this jig to make boxjoints with variable width fingers, so one joint can be comprised of fingers which are 12mm, 36mm, 4mm, etc, and it all still works just as easily. 👍 Cheers for watching!
getting set to purchase the plans but have question first. i would like to be able to use wider stock so it is as easy as just making the whole jig wider? Thank you. Great job. cant wait
That is effectively correct, however there is a limitation as to how wide you can go, it simply gets quite unwieldy to maneuver when you cut wider and longer pieces. How wide are you thinking?
I do not really have an exact width need but figured i would make it as large as reasonable so I have options. What would be the widest you woud build it. Thank you so much.
Awesome. I'm pretty sure I said on your original video that I'll have to build one. I still haven't done it 😂
It's only been 7 years 😂
Make a cam key,that could be adjustable for fine tuning or for larger /smaller sizes.
True, many ways to skin a cat...or to make a box joint... 😄 I've experimented with different 'keys' along the way, one I really liked was was an allen key that I ground an angle into, I could spin it slightly to tweak the cut.
You need to change your name to Woodwizard because this is magic!! Genius Mario
ahaahaha, thanks mate, abraca-box-joint!!!
@@woodfather 🤣🤣🤣
@@woodfather look forward to the next instalment.... Harry HouDovetail !
Awesome jig Mario!! Purchased and excited to build!! Will be a great addition to the workshop 😀
Thanks so much Ainsley, very much appreciated, can't wait to see it in action 🙂
Great job mate.. Really impressed by how easy u make this jig work and look bro.. I will be looking at the plans too btw.. I salute u SIR!!! Hello from Dublin, IRE.
I like how you're doing both pieces at once, that can only help accuracy. I was wondering if some sort of parking mirror hanging over the top would help so you can see what's going on :)
Hi Chris, that's a good idea, I've seen a few people do that to their own ones. I toyed with it once, but I found for me that I watch the travel of the key back and forth, so it didn't add a huge amount of value. I think they extended the sled at the front, and positioned one of those little curved glass mirrors so it could be offset from the blade, and still show everything you need to see.
Nice jig!
Thank you! Cheers!
Great jig! seems very efficient, and produces a great product
Cheers Luke, I know I'm biased, but I think it's amazing each time I use it 🙂
good job
Thanks Mario, I've been looking for a box joint jig for a while, watched dozens of YT videos, and this is by far the best I've seen, it looks easy enough for me to make (just a novice wood worker).
I was also thinking of using 6mm acrylic sheet for the template blocks and doubling or tripling them up to make bigger/smaller fingers, do you think this would work ok? Has anyone tried this?
Also I was thinking of putting a threaded bar through all the template blocks so they are permanently secured to the jig, I would have to round off the bottom of the blocks so they stand up and lay flat without removing them from the threaded bar (hope that makes sense) Do you think that will work?
Any advice is much appreciated, and thanks again.
Hiya Warren, missed this comment sorry. So, acrylic sheet, I think it might be too flexible to be honest. I would suspect 6mm plywood or mdf to be stiffer, and that's what you really need in the fingers, they have to resist you pushing sideways on them or the joint will be cut oversize. As for the bar and rounding them over, yep I've seen a couple like that. I haven't done it as it is a little more work and I've not felt the need, but also, I like to try different thicknesses and styles, so being forced to work in multiples of 6mm or 8mm or whatever the thinnest finger is doesn't appeal. However, if you are making this for a purpose and you know you will always want fingers of those size, having them permanently mounted on the jig may be worth the effort. 👍 Cheers,
mario
It’s really two for the price of one Mario, clever jig that has purpose mate, love this concept & your contribution to #woodjigs21 Awesome entry mate 🇦🇺🍻👍
Cheers Dirk, it's my finest woodworking jig moment, that's for sure 😊
How do you locate the key in the the slider? I don't see the install video is there one?
Hi Marty, apologies, I missed this comment. If you bought the plans, there is a link to a private step-by-step build video where I work my way through the PDF plans and demonstrate each step. Check the zip file for a txt file named readme.txt for the link. Or, send me an email and I'll reply soon as possible.
Hello, is this Jig also suitable for small boxes? Greetings from us in Holland 🌷
Hi Jan, it is, though it probably depends on what you define as small. 😉 I'm using it to make some boxes this weekend which are about 200mm by 180mm, but you can go smaller. The trickiest part might be figuring out a clamping method if you go that small, but a little bit of creative thinking and it should be fine. 👍
@@woodfather thx Mario, if you look on my logo, you See that kind of small boxes, f.I. Juwelery boxes and my logo shows little music box. Your Jig is also suitable for these kind of job. I have to try . I Will study your video again and consider… Many thanks for your kind explanation and much Greetings from us again. Your folower , Jan🌷🌷
great video
Thanks Jim! 👍
Sangat kreatif kawanku membuat alat sambung papan kayu lebih bagus dan cantik
Thank you!
@@woodfather sama-sama teman
How long does it take for plans to come through. Sent a payment through PAYPAL.
Hi Ron, it's an instant send. Check your junk folder. Otherwise I'll jump on the computer soon as I can and will resend. 👍
@@woodfather All is OK. It came in Junk folder and after a bit of tweaking, I downloaded 9 pages of drawings. Many thanks.
hi a couple of days ago I purchased plans for box joint jig but am unable to locate it in email also tried spam.never had problems before David Adelaide
Hi David, I've resent your email, sorry about that - let me know if it doesn't arrive.
My site has been running pretty slow lately, I'm taking that up with my provider to see if they can spot what the problem is.
And finally, thanks a lot for purchasing the plans, much appreciated!
Mario, What's the best site to send you photos. Your Email site?
Yep, that's the one. Probably easiest to just reply back to the email you got with the plans in it 👍👍
Worth the wait! If I had a table saw I'd be over there in a second.... wait, let me just go drop $1500 and then I can spend $15 more 😂 Awesome stuff Mario and a top addition to the playlist. Certainly giving the judges something to think about!
Hah, when you buy a tablesaw mate, i'll send you a jig! (Well, the plans for one at least! 😋) Congrats on running the challenge, sorry it took so long to get on board!
@@woodfather I said end of August, you beat it by a few days ;)
Good thing to rename it, the acronym TWSSSBBJJFTT doesn't directly roll of the tongue either... 😅
Looks really effective for making box joints. If only I had a table saw... 🙄
Now I feel like changing the name back and getting TWSSSBBJJFTT t-shirts made 😂
@@woodfather Feel like it would fit better on a bracelet... 😅
Siento tristeza que el vídeo no este en español, es muy bueno .
I need to learn italian properly first, then I'll give Spanish a shot. 😊
The key being too thick should make a tighter fit, and a smaller one a looser; as it seems to me, but this is the second video who has said this so am I misunderstanding what is happening? Hypothetical, take a perfect key with a great fit..... add a mm or 2, and it would cut less wood away making it tighter ro fit (as I understand) or thin it the same and more wood would be cut making it looser (am I crazy?)
I have maybe seen the same videos, and (as I haven't made the jig yet) didn't really worry about the exact fit - but your logic seems right to me!
I just found this video which agrees with you: th-cam.com/video/q7_Q1eVa_N4/w-d-xo.html
Mario, My computer is playing up a bit, so sent you photos via email a few days ago. Hope you received them.
Hi Ron, I'm afraid I didn't receive anything. If you want to try again, use "woodfather AT thewoodfather DOT com"
Cheers,
Mario
Muito bom 👍 parabéns
Thanks!
So if you used a set of stacked dado cutters for the saw, it would make it even quicker and easier. As you wouldn't have all the passes to carve out the centre of the dados. Fantastic!
I don’t think you get the point of the video lol
Wow...geiler Scheiß 😁
Gruß Edtopia 🙂
Thank you!
Shame the plan is so expensive
Is it though? Watch until the end.
@@woodfather i did and you acknowledged the original free plan. My comment was to the improved plan, I think $15 for a plan is overpriced compared to other makers that offer 3 jigs for less than that and also show a snap shot of the quality of the plans. This is the first video I have seen from you so I have no relationship with your content so while $15 isn't alot to support a maker, I support others, the price in my opinion is expensive. I'll look forward to watching your other content and support as necessary. I hope this makes sense?
Sorry Mario. Bought the plans, put it all together, didn't work. Listened to your advice on it not working first time and re-made the front fence with a considerably smaller key. Still didn't work. Ground down the key to even smaller (any smaller and it would have bent when pressured, still with no luck. Tore it all down, reclaimed as much as possible and went looking for another jig. Not a good experience.
Send me an email with the issues you had, happy to help you get it going again.
Liked the video and idea...but those of us with a subwoofer on our PC's prob all agree that the music, well, was "less than lovely" (aka annoying!).
Yes, great video, but crappy annoying distracting “music” is painful.
"If your joint is too loose, that means your key is too thick".
Huh? Isn't that backwards? If the key is too thick, it seems like you will not be cutting out enough material for the spaces, making the joint too tight. If the key were way too thick, as thick as the spaces in the template, then you would only cut out one-saw-kerf spaces and the joint would be way too tight.
Holy cow, yep, I made a mistake there. 😮 I would have watched this video around 40 times while editing it, and somehow failed to notice that. 😐 The plans are correct in their explanation of the key, but yep, I stuffed up in here, good pickup.
@@woodfather Please put this up at the top or in the description. I go to use this great jig every few years and fight the same battle. Thanks
What the hell
Not a fan? 🤷♂️
Idk. I have a hard time taking woodworking advice from a guy with a carpenter’s pencil in his apron.
I mean, there are probably plenty of reasons to not take my woodworking advice, but a pencil that I use for marking on rough wood is a strange one to focus on. 🤷♂️
I really like the idea of this jig, but when watching the video, I kept wondering why the hell that damned music was added to the background. It doesn't add anything to the video. On the contrary, it detracts from the quality of the video. It's just an annoying distraction. Why do so many you-tubers do this?!?!
Too complicated man
WHAT IS THAT HORRIBLE BACKGROUND NOISE? AAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGHHHHHHHHH