Thanks aton Ron...I was thinking of getting some guide from you on video side. Though i use R7 ,this video helped me alot in setting up button for video capture.
Great video my friend. Love the kingfisher. I was at the lake this morning and there were two chasing each other and just making all kinds of noise lol. I know this is off subject, but I get so frustrated and I'm hoping you may have a suggestion. I shoot r6 mk.2 with adapted ef 100 to 400L2. So probably 40 yards away juvenile osprey perched I pre focused where he had already dove before. So as he makes his dive I'm on him with tracking following him well until he came in line with pontoon boats at the dock about another 60 yards behind him. Lost focus. Now I will sat it was not the greatest light kinda dreary. Very frustrating. I'm in auto iso manual shooting f5.6 1/2500 I have tried different case settings and auto seems to work best when it does. Thanks so much. Still have my mossy oaks graphics on lens and love it.
Hey, thanks for the complement on the video, much appreciated. What AF area were you using? I would have used a zone with subject tracking turned off. Also eye detection turned off. Make the zone match the size of the bird in the frame and then just a bit larger. The zone should be small enough to exclude the majority of the "dirty" background so the AF will stay on the bird that is inside the zone brackets. Keep the bird in the zone brackets and the AF should stay on the bird. If you chose to use subject tracking and the AF goes to full frame tracking then the AF will jump to other elements in the image more often, especially if the bird is not large in the frame. Also, the use of the EF lens makes this a bit more likely as well. Also, make sure you have "switch tracked subjects set all the way to "initial priority." "Auto" is what I shoot for the case setting. One last thing, if you use subject tracking and especially if you have eye detection turned on and the bird is relatively small in the frame the AF will perform best for you if you keep the bird at or near the center of the frame. Hope this helps. Cheers, Ron
@whistlingwingsphotography absolutely it will. I will try a zone. I've never tried that before and what you're saying makes sense. Can't wait to get out and give it a try.
Very informative - I usually shoot stills and the few times I have tried video- I notice - how do you work the focus - you showed what I was missing from my understanding of how the video works - turning AF video and servo on / off w the buttons - it’s like a lightbulb 💡 - “thats how you fix that !”
What magnetic-attached ND filter system to you use? Also, do you use variable ND filters (e.g., 1-5 stop)? Thanks for your insights into video...much appreciated.
I think it might have something to do with your stills buffer dumping to your card. Make sure you are using a fast card. I dump my stills and record my video to the same card and it is the Compact Flash Express card. This ensures the fastest dump of my stills and allows me to capture video in any format I want. Hope this helps. Ron
Hey my friend I tried that focus method you suggested. But when I tried going back to just spot focus with eye tracking its still showing the big zone when I hit eye tracking? I can't seem to figure how to get rid of it. I even when in and disabled the focus zones I don't want.????
I need more information to decipher this. What camera are you using? Are you talking about setting up all 3 back buttons for different AF areas/methods? Etc.
@whistlingwingsphotography I got it figured out. I'm using the r6 mk.2 with ef 100mm to 400mm L2. Wild Alaska youtuber gave me a suggestion that I never thought of a reason as to why I keep losing diving osprey. I have had my lense set on 2 on the lense body itself. For panning. He thinks that setting it to 1 will help and trying to get the osprey a little closer to impact also may help. I really think the auto focus on the mk.2 is amazing.. when it's on. And sometimes it's just not. I will continue to practice practice. However my ospreys have all headed south. Thanks
Interesting. Not sure I would set the IS/IBIS to mode 1 for panning shots. Mode 1 is for static subjects and will try and correct for your panning motion. The new IS/IBIS is very strong and can make it very difficult to pan with a bird in flight. I would set IS/IBIS to mode 2 or turn it off completely if you are shooting fast shutter speeds. Just my take on this. @@davidbarr9475
I have shot CLog2 and 3, but mostly I now just shoot in camera. If I really need the extra DR I will shoot in Log3 but for what I use my footage for and those who purchase my footage I tend not to shoot in Log.
Ron I like the pause and bump setting, giving you total control of the camera, you learn something new everyday thanks to you 😁
Glad you found something useful in the video. And thanks for watching and commenting. It is always appreciated.
Outstanding video, Ron. Love my R3 and get awesome results using your set up tips for stills and video.
Great to hear! Thanks so much for the feedback. It is very important and I appreciate it very much.
Thanks aton Ron...I was thinking of getting some guide from you on video side. Though i use R7 ,this video helped me alot in setting up button for video capture.
You are very welcome. Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment.
Great video my friend. Love the kingfisher. I was at the lake this morning and there were two chasing each other and just making all kinds of noise lol. I know this is off subject, but I get so frustrated and I'm hoping you may have a suggestion. I shoot r6 mk.2 with adapted ef 100 to 400L2. So probably 40 yards away juvenile osprey perched I pre focused where he had already dove before. So as he makes his dive I'm on him with tracking following him well until he came in line with pontoon boats at the dock about another 60 yards behind him. Lost focus. Now I will sat it was not the greatest light kinda dreary. Very frustrating. I'm in auto iso manual shooting f5.6 1/2500 I have tried different case settings and auto seems to work best when it does. Thanks so much. Still have my mossy oaks graphics on lens and love it.
Hey, thanks for the complement on the video, much appreciated. What AF area were you using? I would have used a zone with subject tracking turned off. Also eye detection turned off. Make the zone match the size of the bird in the frame and then just a bit larger. The zone should be small enough to exclude the majority of the "dirty" background so the AF will stay on the bird that is inside the zone brackets. Keep the bird in the zone brackets and the AF should stay on the bird. If you chose to use subject tracking and the AF goes to full frame tracking then the AF will jump to other elements in the image more often, especially if the bird is not large in the frame. Also, the use of the EF lens makes this a bit more likely as well. Also, make sure you have "switch tracked subjects set all the way to "initial priority." "Auto" is what I shoot for the case setting. One last thing, if you use subject tracking and especially if you have eye detection turned on and the bird is relatively small in the frame the AF will perform best for you if you keep the bird at or near the center of the frame. Hope this helps. Cheers, Ron
@whistlingwingsphotography absolutely it will. I will try a zone. I've never tried that before and what you're saying makes sense. Can't wait to get out and give it a try.
Thank for the great information. Will try them out.
Any time! Thank you for watching and commenting.
Very informative - I usually shoot stills and the few times I have tried video- I notice - how do you work the focus - you showed what I was missing from my understanding of how the video works - turning AF video and servo on / off w the buttons - it’s like a lightbulb 💡 - “thats how you fix that !”
Glad you found the video informative. Comments like yours help me greatly. Thank you.
What magnetic-attached ND filter system to you use? Also, do you use variable ND filters (e.g., 1-5 stop)? Thanks for your insights into video...much appreciated.
I use Freewell ND filters. They have a lot of choices.
My r3 shows busy when i switch to video mode right after getting some pictures. Please help i have a gig coming up i cant mess this up.
I think it might have something to do with your stills buffer dumping to your card. Make sure you are using a fast card. I dump my stills and record my video to the same card and it is the Compact Flash Express card. This ensures the fastest dump of my stills and allows me to capture video in any format I want. Hope this helps. Ron
Hey my friend I tried that focus method you suggested. But when I tried going back to just spot focus with eye tracking its still showing the big zone when I hit eye tracking? I can't seem to figure how to get rid of it. I even when in and disabled the focus zones I don't want.????
I need more information to decipher this. What camera are you using? Are you talking about setting up all 3 back buttons for different AF areas/methods? Etc.
@whistlingwingsphotography I got it figured out. I'm using the r6 mk.2 with ef 100mm to 400mm L2. Wild Alaska youtuber gave me a suggestion that I never thought of a reason as to why I keep losing diving osprey. I have had my lense set on 2 on the lense body itself. For panning. He thinks that setting it to 1 will help and trying to get the osprey a little closer to impact also may help. I really think the auto focus on the mk.2 is amazing.. when it's on. And sometimes it's just not. I will continue to practice practice. However my ospreys have all headed south. Thanks
Interesting. Not sure I would set the IS/IBIS to mode 1 for panning shots. Mode 1 is for static subjects and will try and correct for your panning motion. The new IS/IBIS is very strong and can make it very difficult to pan with a bird in flight. I would set IS/IBIS to mode 2 or turn it off completely if you are shooting fast shutter speeds. Just my take on this. @@davidbarr9475
@whistlingwingsphotography thanks my friend
What colour profiles do you use? Log and then Luts in post or all in camera? Thanks keep up the good work.
I have shot CLog2 and 3, but mostly I now just shoot in camera. If I really need the extra DR I will shoot in Log3 but for what I use my footage for and those who purchase my footage I tend not to shoot in Log.