Get it here: bit.ly/commarker-omni-1 (use my discount code "jtmakesit" for 5% OFF!) Read my written review: hobbylasercutters.com/commarker-omni-1/ (affiliate link, I get a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for supporting my channel!)
Thanks for the review. I used your affiliate link. Got the code as well. Thanks for your time and tech talk. I'm a fan. My Omni 1 shipped this morning.
Well, not much fun. Was able to install EZCAD2 and run a test, BUT I have been unable in install LB for galvo. It will not connect. I probably have watched 15 or so videos about installing LB on galvo and none of them will pan out. For now I have a 4000$ 50 lb paper weight. Some where some how something with connect.
@jimhamilton2680 Lightburn uses different driver as EZCAD. First make sure you have Galvo license(or valid trial) and then follow this tutorial: docs.lightburnsoftware.com/legacy/galvo/Installation On my computer I use Zadig software for swapping the driver. For Lightburn the machine needs to be visible as USBLMCV4. If it is BJJCZ, then you have EZCAD drivers installed
Just noticed your reply and tried it out using Zadig to install new driver. followed the program but nothing changed. It will not frame, It immediately starts engraving. Spent all day yesterday with LB support and we got nowhere. Not sure what the next step should be. Maybe I just bought a 4000$ water weight
Here I am thinking about getting a MOPA fiber laser when the UV one is more versatile. I guess I'll lose out on deep metal engraving but at least I can do more than just metal. Now UV is at the top of my list.
I was thinking the same thing. ...though, to be honest, losing the deep metal engraving is a bit of a disappointment. But the UV results seem much more professional for plastic, to say nothing of it's ability to be used on textiles, glass, and wood. The other plus for fiber, is the ability to use it free hand (useful for large objects you want to mark), as well as the fact it has a 100k hour source (vs a 10k hour source for UV), as well as color engraving on stainless and titanium.
@ Just be aware that because of the 10x smaller spot size of a UV to a Fibre, while you will get much finer detail, it will mostly be only visible under a microsope and you will take a lot more time to engrave as your line interval needs to be significantly smaller.
@@guyb7995 That is a very interesting point, especially when you consider the source only has one 10th of the lifespan anyway. So that's what, 1% of the work? Though, I think the attraction probably isn't the resolution, as much as its the versatility.
@@bujin5455 yeah, versatility is great, but if you are trying to knock out a swag of gear its not going to work out well for you. I had to do some basic anadised AL dogtags the other day. The UV would have been 2.5min a tag, the 30W Fibre was 10 seconds. With only 80 tags to do with just text, it was still a huge difference.
This would be great for stained glass making. With a cnc type head to make fine height adjustment to keep the edge flat. You should tell the company to look into this. To see if the market is big enough to sell to.
I also have this machine and have had the issue where etching on glass cause the etching to be at different layers. On a beer mug, that I was doing testing on, one time it etched on top and other times it etched inside the glass. Sure would like to know what causes this and how to control the process. Etching inside of the glass was an actually look!
Just following up if you still have this UV laser operating and what gremlins if any have you encountered? My assumption is you just did a review and sent it back?
Hi, No I still have it and I am still using it. It is a great machine and I am keeping it as I like to be able to engrave all these materials. I cam make so many stuff with it that I can't let it go.
Black markings on raw aluminum can't be done. Only slightly darker. Aluminum doesn't change color under any laser. Black on stainless is easier done with fiber laser. I have tested a lot of them on my channel with great results. You need a lot of heat to blacken stainless. UV laser doesn't have that much power compared to fiber lasers.
Hello! I have ordered one. I was sniffing around engraving lasers for a long time. This one seems to me a perfect choice. I will engrave surgical instruments so I know to which operatory they belong. Do you think it will do the job? Thank you for the excelent video!
Thanks for the video! This is a stunning machine. You are talking about "black transfer foil" for etching glass with the fiber laser. I did not find such a foil. Can you tell me which foil it is and where I can get it?
@@MotoFotoTV I got that foil here: creatorally.com/?ref=JTMAKESIT (use coupon code "JTMAKESIT" for 10% off!). I think it is called ceramic engraving foil or something like that.
hi, great video! learned everything i wanted to know about uv lasers. would you mind sharing the file of test pattern you used? that be handy for testing out materials. best - manuel
Hi, The test pattern can be automatically generated with Lightburn for any combination of parameters. I don't know if EZCAD supports test pattern generation, but for EZCAD a lot of test patterns can be found online, but it is very easy to manually create it by yourself in 15 minutes or less.
@@3jientertainment961 for cutting plastics I would recommend a CO2 laser. But you should check if there are any safety hazards when cutting it. Some plastics can catch fire and others release toxic fumes. Not all plastic is safe to cut.
Excluding cost, are there any disadvantage for going with a higher power UV that you are aware of? I am looking at a 10W however I don't want to regret not getting a 15W in a few years. While this one looked to perform well for you, I have seen a few UV reviews that put 5W as a bare minimum. I don't want bare minimum :)
@@guyb7995 hi, bare minimum is 3W, 10W is higher end and 15W is the most I have seen. But those are for industrial work. I think the 5W is the best price/performance for a small business. It can do anything a 10W can, for a fraction of the cost. A stronger machine will make sense only when you have so much work that a speed increase would be able to make you more money. And a stronger unit has a water chiller which is a bit less noisy than an air cooled machine which is nice if you have to work 8h per day behind it.
@ I ended up with a 15W JPT SEAL. It's great to be able to work with a 300mm lens and have no issues with power and speed. DOF with a 300, while still very shallow, is still much more than smaller lens which helps with slightly curved and/or not 100% flat glass.
@@stiffler8632 maybe for smooth surface engravings the toxic fumes are not emitted, but I am not sure. You should check it. But I would still recommend good smoke purifier
@@JTMakesIt Ah, yeah. That makes sense. I find that the kerf on this thing is so ridiculously low, that it will cut all the way through things and it never drops because the cut is so tight. I can see the light going all the way through the wood I'm cutting (3mm basswood) and it still sits right in place.
Hi, I have a Trotec 360 laser cutter and am considering purchasing an Omni 1 for engraving fine details on glass. Is the Omni 1 capable of cutting thin sheets of metal, such as 1mm thick silver, gold-plated metals, etc.? Thank you.
Will this one do deep engraving? I want to be able to engrave landscape scenes inside of a brick. Bricks are roughly about 2 1/2 to 3 inches thick, so I’d like to be able to engrave an inch and a half deep. With this laser be able to do that?
Look into a fiber laser such as the ComMarker B4 60W. It would be better suited to this application. And it would have a longer service life (100k hours vs 10k hours).
@@user-bn3kv5rv3u I checked the recording and one pass took about 7-8 seconds. The glass was 2mm thick. I think it could do it even faster, by making a bit thinner cutout line
@@JTMakesIt that's not bad at all even just to do a score line for cutting larger sheets of glass like stained glass this can be a game changer. I have been looking everywhere for an alternative to an expensive messy water jet and I think you have solved my problem thank you!
@user-bn3kv5rv3u awesome! If you want to buy this one, check the video description for my discount coupon to save some money :) and if you want to support my channel at no extra cost to you, you can buy through my affiliate link
@@JTMakesIt right. I’m hoping it will be faster than the 10w diode. Right now tags take about 5-10 minutes each. On an order of 100s of tags it’s tough to find enough time in the day to get it done.
maybe it can be done with this machine, but for copper ablation, a fiber laser might be a better choice. ComMarker did a video on making PCBs with the B4 60W MOPA fiber laser of which I also did a review. They also did a cutout with it. Here is their video: th-cam.com/users/shortsP7L-UAamgJQ
@@JTMakesIt I just watched another review where the reviewer engraves some chocolate covered cookies. I'd have to infer that if it didn't make the chocolate a melted mess, it should be okay for FDM plastics. Just a matter of testing and dialing in for each filament type. My main products use PLA-CF, PETG and PC. Now, I just have to justify the initial cost, although, I can't imagine I won't end up using for other projects. Thanks again for the excellent review and for your help.
@cooltoff Thanks! I bet you will find so many uses for this machine. It is a very cool thing to have. With some side hustling (engraving dog tags, kids clothes etc..) the machine will pay for itself in no time :)
The issue is that every type of laser has its own advantages and disadvantages. The UV laser is currently a new technology on the market, so it’s a bit overpriced. I think a well-calibrated diode and fiber laser can achieve quite a lot with excellent results. Of course, I'm not saying the UV laser isn’t good, but I find it a bit pricey.
@istvanpaladi2253 UV lasers were insanely expensive just a few years ago. This machine is considered very cheap for UV laser. But the fiber lasers are becoming cheaper every day as well
Completely different engraving technology. xTool doesn't have UV laser yet. I have reviewed a lot of xTool machines (F1, F1 Ultra, S1 D1, P2) you can watch my other videos and compare the differences by yourself.
@@alejandromelian1273 haven't tried it so I don't know if it ablates rubber or only engraves it. a CO2 galvo laser would be a safer bet for deep engraving rubber. ComMarker also has one. But a diode laser would also engrave some colors of rubber. I made a rubber stamp with a 5W laser
@@JTMakesIt ok, in my country we have Trodat dealer and the company sale sirel sheets, for my it’s important stay 100% sure that his machine engraved this sheets of sirel. Thanks.
The power is a measly 5W, little better than AtomStack M4(2W 1064nm dpss). The laser itself is dpss and not a true fiber laser. Has 10X less life, with output falling off with continued use at high power levels due to fast degrading qswitch. Should have to be atleast 3X cheaper, since there is no expensive Raycus or JPT fiber modules inside. At high power levels, it will fail(degraded output in 1000+ hrs) fairly soon, which is typical for diode pumped semiconductor lasers. Have dealt with all kinds of lasers for professional work.
Imagine that you have nothing better to do, but to go on each video of this laser and talk trash about the laser and the creators. People have absolutely nothing better to do?
@@aware2action you should learn a bit about UV lasers. They are not fiber lasers. They work completely differently than fiber lasers. you clearly didn't watch the video. UV lasers don't engrave with heat. They engrave by breaking chemical bonds directly. This is why you can't compare 5W UV to 5W infrared. 5W UV works more like 30W true fiber.
Get it here:
bit.ly/commarker-omni-1
(use my discount code "jtmakesit" for 5% OFF!)
Read my written review: hobbylasercutters.com/commarker-omni-1/
(affiliate link, I get a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for supporting my channel!)
I went out and picked one up...used your code as well. Keep up the thorough work you do.
@@jonathancrawford4974 thank you! 😊
As you say, I am incredibly impressed as well!
This machine is really interesting and amazing! Thank you for reviewing and sharing your insights! Love from India!🎉
@@balusamys3515 you are the best!
@JTMakesIt thank you
Thanks for the review. I used your affiliate link. Got the code as well. Thanks for your time and tech talk. I'm a fan. My Omni 1 shipped this morning.
@@stevefranklin2769 thank you, it will serve you well!
Thanks for the video, Installing the software today on my unit and then the fun begins
@@TTC1940 awesome!
Trouble in river city. Have spent days trying to get it to work with LB only Ezcad2. Not sure where to go now
Well, not much fun. Was able to install EZCAD2 and run a test, BUT I have been unable in install LB for galvo. It will not connect. I probably have watched 15 or so videos about installing LB on galvo and none of them will pan out. For now I have a 4000$ 50 lb paper weight. Some where some how something with connect.
@jimhamilton2680 Lightburn uses different driver as EZCAD. First make sure you have Galvo license(or valid trial) and then follow this tutorial: docs.lightburnsoftware.com/legacy/galvo/Installation
On my computer I use Zadig software for swapping the driver. For Lightburn the machine needs to be visible as USBLMCV4. If it is BJJCZ, then you have EZCAD drivers installed
Just noticed your reply and tried it out using Zadig to install new driver. followed the program but nothing changed. It will not frame, It immediately starts engraving. Spent all day yesterday with LB support and we got nowhere. Not sure what the next step should be. Maybe I just bought a 4000$ water weight
Here I am thinking about getting a MOPA fiber laser when the UV one is more versatile. I guess I'll lose out on deep metal engraving but at least I can do more than just metal. Now UV is at the top of my list.
I was thinking the same thing. ...though, to be honest, losing the deep metal engraving is a bit of a disappointment. But the UV results seem much more professional for plastic, to say nothing of it's ability to be used on textiles, glass, and wood. The other plus for fiber, is the ability to use it free hand (useful for large objects you want to mark), as well as the fact it has a 100k hour source (vs a 10k hour source for UV), as well as color engraving on stainless and titanium.
I was searching for a MOPA fiber machine and ended up ordering a 10UV!! Lol 😅
@ Just be aware that because of the 10x smaller spot size of a UV to a Fibre, while you will get much finer detail, it will mostly be only visible under a microsope and you will take a lot more time to engrave as your line interval needs to be significantly smaller.
@@guyb7995 That is a very interesting point, especially when you consider the source only has one 10th of the lifespan anyway. So that's what, 1% of the work? Though, I think the attraction probably isn't the resolution, as much as its the versatility.
@@bujin5455 yeah, versatility is great, but if you are trying to knock out a swag of gear its not going to work out well for you. I had to do some basic anadised AL dogtags the other day. The UV would have been 2.5min a tag, the 30W Fibre was 10 seconds. With only 80 tags to do with just text, it was still a huge difference.
Great review, this technology is amazing.
@@ericschleppenbach3519 it truly is! Thanks for watching!
This would be great for stained glass making. With a cnc type head to make fine height adjustment to keep the edge flat. You should tell the company to look into this. To see if the market is big enough to sell to.
Any chance I send you art glass to try to cut. Very interested in this tech
Very informative. Thank you!
Thanks for the great video! Just placed my order and used your code. :)
@@drewthomas5637 thanks! You are awesome! 😎
I was sold at the toothpick engraving
I also have this machine and have had the issue where etching on glass cause the etching to be at different layers. On a beer mug, that I was doing testing on, one time it etched on top and other times it etched inside the glass. Sure would like to know what causes this and how to control the process. Etching inside of the glass was an actually look!
@@terryclair2914 in my video I explored this exact thing. I found out that different settings produce different depths. Very cool phenomena
When you find the solution or answer please share it with us. Question do you recommend buying this machine? We are considering it.
Can you do a test with 3d printed parts and compare uv with fiber laser?
UV is much better for plastic
Great video! How does it do with engraving the back of an iPhone?
@@bsaleem97 if it is plastic, metal or glass it should be able to engrave it
Just following up if you still have this UV laser operating and what gremlins if any have you encountered? My assumption is you just did a review and sent it back?
Hi,
No I still have it and I am still using it. It is a great machine and I am keeping it as I like to be able to engrave all these materials. I cam make so many stuff with it that I can't let it go.
Can you get good black markings on stainless steel? Is there a way to get black marks on aluminum?
Black markings on raw aluminum can't be done. Only slightly darker. Aluminum doesn't change color under any laser. Black on stainless is easier done with fiber laser. I have tested a lot of them on my channel with great results. You need a lot of heat to blacken stainless. UV laser doesn't have that much power compared to fiber lasers.
Hello! I have ordered one. I was sniffing around engraving lasers for a long time. This one seems to me a perfect choice. I will engrave surgical instruments so I know to which operatory they belong. Do you think it will do the job? Thank you for the excelent video!
Thanks for watching! It will do the job perfectly!
Thanks for the video! This is a stunning machine. You are talking about "black transfer foil" for etching glass with the fiber laser. I did not find such a foil. Can you tell me which foil it is and where I can get it?
@@MotoFotoTV I got that foil here:
creatorally.com/?ref=JTMAKESIT
(use coupon code "JTMAKESIT" for 10% off!). I think it is called ceramic engraving foil or something like that.
hi, great video! learned everything i wanted to know about uv lasers. would you mind sharing the file of test pattern you used? that be handy for testing out materials. best - manuel
Hi, The test pattern can be automatically generated with Lightburn for any combination of parameters. I don't know if EZCAD supports test pattern generation, but for EZCAD a lot of test patterns can be found online, but it is very easy to manually create it by yourself in 15 minutes or less.
@JTMakesIt great thank you =)
I love it. Very nice laser to own. I have a question... is this UV laser can cut a 3mm polycarbonate material?
@@3jientertainment961 for cutting plastics I would recommend a CO2 laser. But you should check if there are any safety hazards when cutting it. Some plastics can catch fire and others release toxic fumes. Not all plastic is safe to cut.
What settings did you use to get the engraving on the middle of the glass?
@@JasonOutlaw you can read them from the parameter test pattern in the video
@@JTMakesIt Can't read the test pattern in the video!
@@terryclair2914 In the video description there is a link to my website with detailed photos of all the results showcased in this video.
Excluding cost, are there any disadvantage for going with a higher power UV that you are aware of? I am looking at a 10W however I don't want to regret not getting a 15W in a few years. While this one looked to perform well for you, I have seen a few UV reviews that put 5W as a bare minimum. I don't want bare minimum :)
@@guyb7995 hi, bare minimum is 3W, 10W is higher end and 15W is the most I have seen. But those are for industrial work. I think the 5W is the best price/performance for a small business. It can do anything a 10W can, for a fraction of the cost. A stronger machine will make sense only when you have so much work that a speed increase would be able to make you more money. And a stronger unit has a water chiller which is a bit less noisy than an air cooled machine which is nice if you have to work 8h per day behind it.
10 Watt will do everything you want and still have lots of overhead for doing cuts. 😊
@ I ended up with a 15W JPT SEAL. It's great to be able to work with a 300mm lens and have no issues with power and speed. DOF with a 300, while still very shallow, is still much more than smaller lens which helps with slightly curved and/or not 100% flat glass.
Whats about Vinyl Foil, maybe it can replace small plotter machines? Since the Fumes are alway toxic with diode and ir-lasers.
@@stiffler8632 maybe for smooth surface engravings the toxic fumes are not emitted, but I am not sure. You should check it. But I would still recommend good smoke purifier
What settings did you use for cutting through the glass? I've been unsuccessful thus far with my Omni 1.
40kHz, 1ns pulse. but need to use a relatively big wobble parameter - you can't cut with just a line, you need some width for material to escape
@@JTMakesIt Ah, yeah. That makes sense. I find that the kerf on this thing is so ridiculously low, that it will cut all the way through things and it never drops because the cut is so tight. I can see the light going all the way through the wood I'm cutting (3mm basswood) and it still sits right in place.
@@JTMakesIt Thanks so much!
Hi, I have a Trotec 360 laser cutter and am considering purchasing an Omni 1 for engraving fine details on glass. Is the Omni 1 capable of cutting thin sheets of metal, such as 1mm thick silver, gold-plated metals, etc.? Thank you.
Hi, UV laser is not good at cutting metal. For cutting metals around 1mm thick you would need a 60W-100W fiber laser (1064nm).
Will this one do deep engraving? I want to be able to engrave landscape scenes inside of a brick. Bricks are roughly about 2 1/2 to 3 inches thick, so I’d like to be able to engrave an inch and a half deep. With this laser be able to do that?
Look into a fiber laser such as the ComMarker B4 60W. It would be better suited to this application. And it would have a longer service life (100k hours vs 10k hours).
Fiber laser laser sources are rated for 100k hours, how long is a UV laser source rated for?
@@bujin5455 around 10-15k hours
How long did the 50 passes take for the small circle glass cutout? I am interested for cutting small stained glass pieces that the waterjet cannot.
It took just a couple of minutes
@@JTMakesIt wow I was expecting much longer that's great thank you for the quick response!
@@user-bn3kv5rv3u I checked the recording and one pass took about 7-8 seconds. The glass was 2mm thick. I think it could do it even faster, by making a bit thinner cutout line
@@JTMakesIt that's not bad at all even just to do a score line for cutting larger sheets of glass like stained glass this can be a game changer. I have been looking everywhere for an alternative to an expensive messy water jet and I think you have solved my problem thank you!
@user-bn3kv5rv3u awesome! If you want to buy this one, check the video description for my discount coupon to save some money :) and if you want to support my channel at no extra cost to you, you can buy through my affiliate link
Can this engrave deep into plastic? I’m hoping I can use it on cattle ear tags that are white over a black core.
@@vandengaaskjolen1821 it is not the best for deep engravings, how thick is the white layer?
@ about 0.3mm
@@vandengaaskjolen1821 Maybe it could do that. The problem is that plastic could melt
@@vandengaaskjolen1821 If you look at the tests that were done in the video on spray bottle caps, some of the engravings are pretty deep on black one.
@@JTMakesIt right. I’m hoping it will be faster than the 10w diode. Right now tags take about 5-10 minutes each. On an order of 100s of tags it’s tough to find enough time in the day to get it done.
Dear Sir, would you like to test if it is possible to make PCBs (printed circuit boards) by copper ablation? Thank you so much. Kind Regards, Pavel
maybe it can be done with this machine, but for copper ablation, a fiber laser might be a better choice. ComMarker did a video on making PCBs with the B4 60W MOPA fiber laser of which I also did a review. They also did a cutout with it. Here is their video: th-cam.com/users/shortsP7L-UAamgJQ
Would this machine be a good choice for engraving 3D printed parts?
This machine is great for engraving 3D print plastic
@@JTMakesIt I just watched another review where the reviewer engraves some chocolate covered cookies. I'd have to infer that if it didn't make the chocolate a melted mess, it should be okay for FDM plastics. Just a matter of testing and dialing in for each filament type. My main products use PLA-CF, PETG and PC.
Now, I just have to justify the initial cost, although, I can't imagine I won't end up using for other projects.
Thanks again for the excellent review and for your help.
@cooltoff Thanks! I bet you will find so many uses for this machine. It is a very cool thing to have. With some side hustling (engraving dog tags, kids clothes etc..) the machine will pay for itself in no time :)
The issue is that every type of laser has its own advantages and disadvantages. The UV laser is currently a new technology on the market, so it’s a bit overpriced. I think a well-calibrated diode and fiber laser can achieve quite a lot with excellent results. Of course, I'm not saying the UV laser isn’t good, but I find it a bit pricey.
@istvanpaladi2253 UV lasers were insanely expensive just a few years ago. This machine is considered very cheap for UV laser. But the fiber lasers are becoming cheaper every day as well
Wonder how this compares to xtool
Completely different engraving technology. xTool doesn't have UV laser yet. I have reviewed a lot of xTool machines (F1, F1 Ultra, S1 D1, P2) you can watch my other videos and compare the differences by yourself.
You wanna make rubber sirel for stamps whit this machine?
@@alejandromelian1273 I think it could be possible to do that!
@ but not sure?
@@alejandromelian1273 haven't tried it so I don't know if it ablates rubber or only engraves it. a CO2 galvo laser would be a safer bet for deep engraving rubber. ComMarker also has one. But a diode laser would also engrave some colors of rubber. I made a rubber stamp with a 5W laser
@@JTMakesIt ok, in my country we have Trodat dealer and the company sale sirel sheets, for my it’s important stay 100% sure that his machine engraved this sheets of sirel. Thanks.
THE Omni 1 Laser Engraver how deep can it engrave can I drill a 5 mm hole in stainless steel ? 👍
no, UV laser is not good for deep engraving in metal. You want a fiber laser for that. Check my fiber laser reviews
Could someone made this into a paper printer?
th-cam.com/users/shortsjA0w-K5y6HA
The power is a measly 5W, little better than AtomStack M4(2W 1064nm dpss). The laser itself is dpss and not a true fiber laser. Has 10X less life, with output falling off with continued use at high power levels due to fast degrading qswitch. Should have to be atleast 3X cheaper, since there is no expensive Raycus or JPT fiber modules inside. At high power levels, it will fail(degraded output in 1000+ hrs) fairly soon, which is typical for diode pumped semiconductor lasers. Have dealt with all kinds of lasers for professional work.
Imagine that you have nothing better to do, but to go on each video of this laser and talk trash about the laser and the creators. People have absolutely nothing better to do?
@@aware2action you should learn a bit about UV lasers. They are not fiber lasers. They work completely differently than fiber lasers. you clearly didn't watch the video. UV lasers don't engrave with heat. They engrave by breaking chemical bonds directly. This is why you can't compare 5W UV to 5W infrared. 5W UV works more like 30W true fiber.