The chase for the best possible CNC surface finish! - Mirror finish up close, really close.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.พ. 2021
- Long awaited video showing my upgraded Precision Granite CNC machine in action.
I have been aiming for the Best possible finish from the cnc machine. I don't care if its DIY or not. Only the results are important.
Its really hard to find a good video showing surface finish on parts, its always just a bit too far, or in motion, there is never a closeup.
in this video are only the closeups :D
Finishes in this video are best what i was able to produce at the time. i will be looking how to improve it further in the near future.
After endless requests I will be cutting hardened steel on this video, for my first time, so please don't laugh to hard :)
shots showing reflections are to help illustrate how actually reflective those surfaces are. video does not make justice.
end mills used in this video:
aluminium:
10mm 3 FLUTE CARBIDE ALUMINIUM ENDMILL
BRAND: Winstar
steel:
6mm .4µm Carbide end mill for stainless and other tough materials.
BRAND: Winstar
website where you can find plans and in the future it will be the place for everything related to the channel and the cnc itself.
link:
www.flyingfoxcam.com/cnc
for sneak peaks please check my Instagram page:
/ piotrfoxwysocki - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Glad to see you pushing out videos again, keep up the great content! this machine is one off the best DIY machines! top 3 for sure!
Thx
your a legend Sir, what an amazing machine, im stunned by the results!
Glad to see you pushing out videos again, keep up the great content
Thanks 😉
Uh oh, now that you’ve got it milling steel, which aluminum parts of the mill have too many nanometers of flex and need to be replaced with stiffer steel parts? 2022 upgrade series in the works already! :D
Yeah.. now i should stop fu..ing around and do some actual paid work ;)
@@PiotrFoxWysocki that's crazy talk... ;-)
Cheeky Cheeky 😉😂
What an amazing achievement! Congratulations!!
Thank you so much! and I appreciate the support :D
That was very impressive!
Very nicely done ! it behave very good. For the ball endmill, for what is working for me is have a constant or almost constant depth of metal to remove, like have a first pass with the ball endmill and then the finer step over, it help. also having something to cut, I mean something substantial help to have the cutter engaging and not rubbing so much. Awesome primer results, impresives i would say !
Thanks 😊
Very nice proof of the level of effort you have put into this machine. I'm guessing that the upgrade was not a small expense. The difference in finish is quite impressive.
Thank you ;) well.. i stop counting how much i spend after 4k.
Very cool stuff, impressive flatness on the facing pass being able to wring those two parts together!
Thank you. 😊 bummer they didnt ring dry. 😕 but i have new goal to aim at.
Hats off to you that is very inpressive!
thank you again :D you are very kind :D
Hi, Fox!! You are my inspiration, i`m building my first cnc router now. Not out from granite, but with steel welded frame (it`s more easier in home conditions than work with granite)
Thanks 😉 good luck with the build!
You literally embody the spirit of what Im chasing in cnc. No compromises, just precision, regidity, and glass finishes.. Id love to get a rough number on the overall cost of the components, id like to build something similar scaled down a bit to a more desktop sort of size configuration if possible. Otherwise Im absolutely smitten with this build and your level of attention to detail here sir.
Unreal.
cooling like crazy!
Its more for washing the chips away effectively
impressive. i really like granit and big rails :)
hey :D thanks:)
very good video..thanks for your time
Thank you for watching 👀 😉
Just ... Awesome!
Hey 👋 I'm glad you liked it 👍😊
oh wow, so amazing! looks like all the work was worth it. congratulations Piotr, this is so impressive. i'm not sure what you want to improve, maybe gcode that supports arcs? whatever else you come up with, i look forward to hearing more about it!
Hey 👋 thank you 😊
@@PiotrFoxWysocki hey! dude since my comment i've actually discovered a new tool that might interest you. i don't know if it'll work or its safe to use it on CNC router gcode, but for 3d printers a program called ARC WELDER post processes segments on a curve into arcs. i don't see why it shouldn't work.
heres some info on it:
th-cam.com/video/18uYYXecH5g/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MakersMashup
i think the problem is that in 3d printer those arcs are flat. so printer draws a circle and moves up and draws another circle.
in fusion when you use spiral it constantly moves up drawing circles. so i guess its the 3d motion which makes it harder.
i guess in fusion i could change to different tool path which is supporting arcs.
Well done.
Out of experience the quality of the endmill makes a huge difference. My personal preference is YG1 endmills. Slightly expensive but well worth every cent.
This is the second recommendation i get to try those. I Will look in to it.
Yeah, YG-1 endmills are very good, also Garant and Holex. But if i would choose i would go for yg-1 👍🏼
I will give YG-1 a try. Thanks for the help 🙂
YG-1 3 flute uncoated alupower endmills are amazing
@@eugencsl I didn't get to try the YG-1 end mills (had great luck with Korloy A+ on aluminum) but I highly recommend the Master Steel PickPocket 3F for all kinds of CNC applications on steel. They are the MVP for even the softest, dirtiest or crustiest ISO P materials in my book and will run circles around Diver end mills
Great Video!
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Nice & Congrats Piotr!
Tho, I would love to see some dimensional control. For example different heavier cuts & measuring the amount of "spring--back" towards the CAD dimensions. I think that would be a nice way to get some "true virtual" feeling of the machine rigidity.
Kudos & looking forward to the next video!
AS
Thanks 😊
Impressive! Especially since (in my limited understanding) surface-ground parts are generally milled first then hardened and ground to final size and shape; the usual practice is to only mill softer steel (before hardening or after annealing to soften the material).
usually yes, but this days its both ways. depends on application.
that sticking actually looks good, 5 micron or something like that. what I expected instead of sticking is just check surface flatness, mill 2 opposite sides, and check it on a surface plate I guess, but overall looks great - good result. Making thing stick like gauge blocks out of a mill - eeeehh, it is a dream, I think, starting from good mills you need even, not necessarily your equipment precision, and all other factors.
check repeatability, two similar blocks dimensions faces flatness and just flatness
"I still have some room for improvement" - and Deming wheel keeps rolling :)
Amazing machine!
PS. Geetings from Poland ;)
dzieki :D wiesz jak jest, jak widzisz co poprawic to chcesz poprawic. dlaczego? cholera wie :D
@@PiotrFoxWysocki Znam aż za dobrze :)
Z niecierpliwością czekam na kolejny update.
Miłego dnia/dobrej nocy :)
Dzieki 😉 milego dnia tam 😉
I build my own shitty cnc for woodworking years ago but this is insane.. super nice build and pretty helpfull to get my next machine a little nicer ! and a joy to watch to ! i sub for sure !
Impressive. I think I will make my first CNC to mill / turn wood where lack of accuracy can be described as, "character". What a wonderful result for you - hope you can share some of the products / prototypes you produce on it.
Thank you 😊 i hope to share some stuff eventually 😉
Just i quick thought from someone with no milling or metalworking background what so ever.
Maybe you can "dress" your endmill. Just like you would do with a surface grinder.
Use a ground wet stone and "mill" very, very lightly over it. With that you should be able to get any added up error from spindle, toolholder and tool out of the equation. And have a tool exaclty perpendicular to your machine axis.
Of course this result in a some amount of rubbing because you ruin the back relieve. But depending on how minimal the dressing is, it might not matter.
I really enjoyed this series and the result is just awesome!
If the tool is off axis and you try to dress it. You will put a radius on it. Not make it flat.
Well done man. Great stuff as usual!!
You'll to redo the torture test you did a year or so back.
Hey 👋 thanks 😊 i already did 😉 just haven't edited it yet.
Benchmark to judge my own work? Dear God, please no! Anything I have done, in comparison, is like juxtaposing a couple of amino acids, bubbling around in the primordial soup, with Richard Feynman.
But the thing that really gets me is that it not only does beautiful work, it looks incredible itself.
You, sir, are an artist!
Thank you 😊
That spark show is normal on hard steels or just with certain cutters on steel. As long as there's no terrible vibrations or extremely short tool life, send it. There's a few parts I run at work that looks like a volcano erupting and those end mills removes atleast 50 lbs of steel before the possible need for change.
Thanks Piotr the quality is pretty high. Nice work ! What's next high end tool upgrade ? A bit surprised there was no arc generation from F360, may be it influences the smoothness of the toolpath (depends on the post processor and the controller)
Thank you 😊 definitely I will look into a better tools. Bummer i don't get free samples 😜
Piotr, your videos are great! Now that you are done chasing microns, maybe next you can chase speed. (Not saying your machine is slow) I am just excited to see what you come up with. Keep up the great work.
Maybe one day!
@@PiotrFoxWysocki Or maybe you could chase more complex control of the machine. I'm also happy to just watch you make chips too.
Im considering to change from step and direction to analogue. But i need more motivation for this ;)
Fantastic work. Many congratulations. Apologies if I have missed this answer already but have you tested any of the Datron tooling?
Many thanks 😊 once i went to their site to get a pcd flycutter but couldnt find it and there was no quick way to just to buy a endmill. I will check again, maybe something has changed.
@@PiotrFoxWysocki I think you can now buy online - you can on the US site but not sure about the EU. Their tooling is amazing..... the price is..... well, just check your program before you run it :)
Haha 😄 thanks 😊
Regarding your wringing tests- to achieve proper gauge block wringing the flatness tolerances that are necessary are generally not achievable with milling machines, as the flatness of the wrung surfaces needs to be well under 1um flatness, but also in surface finish in the low double digit manometer ra range.
It's much easier to lap a part into this condition than any other method.
And of course, adding water is not a true test ;)
Adding water will make it a hydrostatic(?) ring. It can be achieved with far less finish than what you have achieved. But what you get for a little bit dry, you are close, but you ask waaay to much of your CNC machine to achieve that :-) Nice work!
Theoretically it should be possible ;)
You went with the surface finish video;-) lovely! Maybe at some point, you could show us how you anodize those wonderful surfaces;-)
ehh.. its always the wrong video :) i have to make one on the servos and than i can do anodizing. sounds good? :)
YEAH, and its way too long this time (just kidding)
@@PiotrFoxWysocki No no, it's never the wrong video;-) I am amazed that you got the two blocks to stick together, that's awesome work!
Hahaha 😁 yeah its 15x longer than the last one ;)
I was hoping for better tho. 😔
So, you are using 2 servo's for the Y right? does that sync up pretty well? Really nice result! really want to get different parts for my build now I have seen this result.
yes, the biggest problem is to tune both of them at once. which apparently is not possible. but manually you can do this. looks like they work ok.
Try Destiny end mill for aluminum. They leave a mirror finish. MA Ford 6-7 flute great on 4140 and stainless.
Will check ✔
Hi Fox, one question. In the beginning of your epic upgrade you were talking about stepper and change to servo for a better surface quality. What are your findigs about this, is it an improvement for the surface quality to change from stepper to servo? - provided the same mechanical stability of the machine.
When machine is moving now there is almost no vibration. So i guess it adds up. I have changed all the rails and screws so its hard to say what had the biggest impact
Hi Fox,
Absolut great work, thanks for uploading...
Please would you be so kind to share the F360-file for this halfball.
I think, that there are some details that I don't understand.
Do you think that there is a chance to mill it with not so much
cooling water; to better see the real cutting process.
Over all, I think this piece is a good method to check the accuracy of the machine
Thanks.
Thanks. Nyc cnc did this test first. And they do explain all about it. Please check.
I wont be making any more videos on milling balls. I think one is enough ;)
Your machine and work are tremendous. Since you have the microscope view at 3:14, it looks like there is a dimpled finish that you mention. They are ~150 um in diameter, based on the hair. They are not regularly spaced. You mentioned that you thought that this was the vertices of the line segments that make the sphere. In my experience, if your machine is truly doing this because of the vertices, your servos could use a retune. If you are using acceleration feedforward, it can make the system "jump" on changed in trajectory like moving from one line segment to the next, if it is set too high. Also tuning "too tight" or to too high a bandwidth can do a similar thing. Backing off on your tuning can make following paths like this smoother, if maybe not as accurate. It would be pretty straightforward to set Fusion to a much looser tolerance so it uses less points. Then you could actually see if the dimples match the cam vertices.
Having said that, I wonder if this is chip recutting? The dimples look a lot like chip recutting issues I have seen before. It seems like if you could diagnose this and fix it, you are looking at a near optical finish on the sphere, which would really be amazing. I have never achieved a surface finish where there was "one last" thing like you have. Amazing work!
Hey 👋 thanks for all the explanation. I might look in to tune the servos bit better. Dimples are not recut chip. It would have smudges. But it looks clean. I think i know what it might be.
very cool build. I would like to see you mill som regular cold rolled steel that is NOT hardened. Milling hardened steel is the exception for most people, but milling mild steel is, for me at least, a requirement.
Thank you for an excellent series.
Thank you for watching 😉 well i thougjt when it will cut hardened steel it could cut anything. Sorry for my ignorance 😉
@@PiotrFoxWysocki Yes of course you will be able to do it. I just thought it would be interesting to see if a setup like you now have would be practical for steel milling. You know, what kind of speeds and feeds you could achive.
I don't doubt your granite and rails.. More curious about the spindle.
Thanks.
I see. Makes sense.
Hello Fox! Could you tell me where you buy your standard endmills? They seem to perform quite well for chinese ones.
I buy from local distributor. I guess most of them are winstar brand.
Nice Piotr- I would be interested in what CNC controls / servos etc you decided on using...
all the info with the links in the video description th-cam.com/video/AdvEacEJ_qk/w-d-xo.html
@@PiotrFoxWysocki Thanks
No problem 😊
Excellent stuff! You've convinced me to restart my CNC improvements, not because I need it, just because I have to have it :-) Awesome!
Footnote: Why don't you take the 5um passes just for the hell of it? Maybe on a smaller part?
I second this comment 😂
This is the part i was afraid already. People going and spending money 💰 😉 and if something won't work, its on me 😋
5um pases sounds good. But give me some time. I have to learn this machine from scratch 😉
@@PiotrFoxWysocki Looking forward to it. Looks like I have somewhere for this years tax refund to go to :)
Ok ok 😉
Is it really a problem that the chips did glow? I’m not sure but I think thats about to be expected when milling hardened steel? Surface looks nice after all and you mentioned that the endmill also still looks happy..
Super great machine by the way! Very inspiring all the work and effort and thought you put into it!
As i said. I have no experience milling steel. Glowing wasnt something i was prepared to see. I'm glad you like it 😊 thank you.
Hey Fox, like so many others I am inspired by your work here, thanks for sharing. I am part way through building an 2.4m x 1.2m CNC, mainly for wood - but of course, the dream is for it to do a respectable job on aluminium, and even look mild steel in the eye without peeing its pants. I have used composite materials - steel & concrete frame, epoxy levelling, the gantry is aluminium, steel and epoxy-granite. It's quite the mash up, from bits n bobs I had available. I'll make a video for my channel when done :)
Thanks again.
ps. where do you actually buy your endmills? I don't see a shop on the Winstar website...
Hey! thank you very much :) Never thought i would have such an influence. but after this build i'm a bit worried, i might put too much false hope for people to go and make a cnc just like mine. It looks easy on the video... in practice it might be much harder.
2.4x1.2 is big :) for wood should be perfect. for harder stuff i would go with something smaller. of course it depends what kind of finish you are looking for and tolerance.
but i guess you could cut anything on the big one if you adjust tool paths for the machine. and if you will mill in the corner of the machine and not in the center.
Carbide.nz they are close to me. But im not sure if winstar are the best endmills. 🤔
That's what I am thinking ;) corner milling for hard stuff... no idea how it will work. We shall see...
Perfection. o/
Hey 👋 thanks 😊
Think you need some diamond tools to test now
Agree 👍
Wow, getting so close to being able to wring parts dry is insanely impressive. Get yourself an MCD fly cutter or touch them up with precision ground flat stones, I bet they would wring dry then!
Thank you 😊 any idea where i could get a flycutter with the shank 13mm or less ?
@@PiotrFoxWysocki sure the company Datron, which you may know makes high quality CNC routers and machining centers, also makes tooling specifically for machine like yours. Googling "datron face mill" brought up some of their tooling for me. I have heard very good things about their tooling. Good luck!
I just took a look at their diamond facemill. Only 1700usd, so more than my atc spindle. This is a bit ridiculous for 20mm facemill
@@PiotrFoxWysocki it’s true, just am going based off of recommendations of others. I’ve heard good things about their carbide face mills too, they are an order of magnitude cheaper and should still fit in your spindle. From my experience 1700USD for an MCD tool isn't out of the realm of sanity but it is probably not necessary for your application either.
@@PiotrFoxWysocki with that machine, for sure you can make one yourself :)
The sparks are a normal part of hard milling. Looked like you were going a tad fast but you mentioned your cutter held up. End mills do not last long hard milling with poor settings
Playing around with a new toy is always fun . Enjoy! !
Thanks 😊
@@PiotrFoxWysocki my toy at work is a Masturn 820i 😀
Very impressive ;) and huge 😉
Any reason you didn’t use flood coolant for the steel cuts? It would be interesting to see the difference in surface finish. Love your machine!
Thanks 😉 I wanted to see if chip color. Brown ok, blue too much. Flames - definitely something wrong ;)
@@PiotrFoxWysocki as long as your workpiece and tool stay cool there's nothing wrong with blue chips; means the heat is going where it's supposed to.
I guess this was my simplification.
Cool! Which tool did you use for facing here?
Regular 10mm 3 flute carbide endmill
@@PiotrFoxWysocki amazing! definitely gonne try this on my machine!
Tha looks really shiny 👍
yeah :) "its so shiny, my precioussssss :) "
Alex, get your new mill done, then lets see what that beast can do ;)
Awesome machine you have!
Can you maybe build a finishing/polishing endmill head?
Hmm.. i guess i could hack something. The biggest problem for me would be ballancing it to a g1. I dont have a ballancing machne. Yet...
@@PiotrFoxWysocki You"re right, that would be a difficult part.
Definitely tricky
Very impressive, I can't imagine the videos really show the amount of effort you have put into that machine.
Are you working in a climate controlled area?
I guess you need to send it to someone who can measure the surface finish. Ra, Rvk, Rpk and Rk value.
I always found dull looking to have a better surface finish.
What is your profession btw ?
Amazing videos. Keep it up.
Easy way to get a very good surface finish in aluminum is using an uncoated YG Alu-Power 3 flute 45 degree helix solid carbide endmill in a heat-shrink holder.
Thanks for thr tip
Room for improvement? Lol. Impressive!
this is my default state, if i can see i can improve something :)
Is the steal flakes burning off really a problem? If the heat is removed with the chips and there is no chattering, it is perfect, isn't it? As long as the endmill and the part are good, what more do you want? The surface looked great.
thanks :D well.. you know in theory it makes sense. but when you see those chips start glowing brighter than the all the surrounding lights you get doubts :D i have seen some extreme milling in flames, but i thought it was more like a stunt, than actual practice.
@@PiotrFoxWysocki Of course you have to take the risk of fire into account, you don't want your case to burn up.
But on the other hand, how cool would it be if you could cut at such extreme rates and not dull your end mill? I would certainly find such tests to find out if the end mill really doesn't get dull pretty impressive.
And I think I am probably not the only one you would seriously impress if your machine could do that.
I was wondering anyway why you weren't using cooling. Why didn't you?
I didnt used coolant to see the color of the chips. And to see what is going on.
It looks like the tormach vrs datron video from nyc cnc? If it is similar challenge it would be great to compare the times! Of course you would nedd same tooling and fusion setup with i believe they go over in the video? Btw what axis controller do you use? Is it pwm or step n direction yet? I dont believe its as much software that upgrades the machine as much as it is the axis controller n drive n servos n yours looks pretty darn good. What is your max feedrate and rapid? Nice video!
I think it would be awesome to see your diy mill beat tormach lol n keep up with datron! You would be a hero! Lol 😁
I got the idea for the sphere from NYC CNC, I thought its a good shape to test all the axis at once and precision. i wasn't interested in the exact tool path. i was focused more on the finish as this is something i will be using.
i use uc300 with mach3. max speed 2850mm/min as i put all the speed in to the resolution. again its for my use and not to impress people with how fast it can move.
i prefer to impress my clients with the quality of the finish :)
But i thought i was already your hero 🤣😁
@@PiotrFoxWysocki well of course 😁
Hahaha 😁
I'd love to see some of the things you make 😀
one day, one day. i have to go through the few patents now, before i will be able to publish something.
@@PiotrFoxWysocki Ahhhh Quantum Transfunctioners and Spaceship parts 😉
Hahaha 😉 pretty much 😉
is it possible to make a hammer with this CNC ?
Hello Fox. Since you are in Europe where do you buy your measurement granite plates? Are they in-size? Is there any online shop I can have a look? Thank's my friend. you are being awesome. :)
Ha ha 😂 well last time i was in europe it was 15 years ago ;) I'm in New Zealand 🇳🇿. The other side of the planet 😉
@@PiotrFoxWysocki Oh man. How could I miss that. lol I find some great deals on surface plates but looking for a good deal. I find 5 microns deviation at the size I look for. I talk about a triangle 90 degree. Or you may call it square.
Alibaba. But its very tricky to get a precise one. So i won't recommend anything.
Strictly speaking.. (correct me if I am wrong) but parallels are not mild steel. They are generally made from cast iron, stainless or tool steel. If they are stainless, then what you did there was impressive.
This one was something like a tool steel and it was hardened. You wont be able to drill in it with a regular drill.
@@PiotrFoxWysocki ... Ok, very, very impressive if they are tool steel. !
Spindle speed and end mill diameter when you cut Steel? Spindle speed seemed high because the sparks
10k and 400mm/min, so i actually should go 800mm and 5k. or 1600mm and 10k
@@PiotrFoxWysocki what was the cutter diameter? You could check the end mill manufacturers recommendations for the cutting speed Meters/minute, rpm x dia x π
6mm. I did check. But i got it all wrong 😉
@@PiotrFoxWysocki 👍
How would the steel cut have come out with coolant, as was done with the aluminum?
Good question ;) it could be worse because it would make surface more slippery or the opposite 🤔 i run it without the coolant to see the color of the chips. They where brown so for finishing pass it was fine. For the deeper cut didnt worked at all.
@@PiotrFoxWysocki interesting. I would think that washing the chips away might result in a more even surface because chips won’t be whipped around, and back under the cutter. Also, hopefully none of those sparks, keeping heat down, and expansion of the work and cutter to a minimum.
I have a friend who does aerospace and other more esoteric work he can’t talk about. He cuts very hard and tough alloys at 30,000 rpm, with lots of coolant we can’t buy. His machines monitor cutter diameter while cutting with lasers. When the diameter changes by a tenth, work stops, the tool is automatically changed. The machine readjusts itself, and continues cutting. Even if I could afford the machines, I wouldn’t be allowed to buy them.
Such is life.
@@melgross on this side cut chips where shooting away so wrapping around. as i mentioned before steel is not my thing. I don't have good feeds and speeds for it because i'm not machining steel, just aluminium.
this 30000rpm makes sense. i think around 50's they did a research on high speed milling and faster you go cooler the work piece is. it goes up to some speed but after that it goes right down.
theory is easy :) but in practice you need to practice quite a lot :D
I would love to do all sorts of research, but this this TH-cam channel is a non profit hobby really, actually the opposite :D
@@PiotrFoxWysocki you do pretty well as it is. My friend does it professionally. My own work is a lot more restricted.
What RPM are you using for steel ? thanks
Im not milling steel at all. Well maybe a trim something once a year or 2. On the video i run it 10.000rpm which was way to fast.
Piotr please send the link for you cutting bits supplier
Carbide.nz
I love your work, but here are my two cents on comparing surface finish: don't compare a surface ground a long time ago with a surface just milled, because any surface finish/mirror dulls in time. Compare instead two surfaces equally freshly worked (freshly ground against freshly milled)
fair point. in my defense i had to compare it to something. this parallel wasn't that old either, just got some rusty spots. But i haven't noticed much of a difference between old ones and new ones i have. 5 years vs 1 year to be precise. bummer i can't put a picture in the comment.
@@PiotrFoxWysocki Well if 4 years don't make a difference, then one year won't make a difference either. Amazing surface finish!!
La maggior precisione che io ho visto da sempre
grazzie mille :)
Surface speed was way too high on the hardened steel, try around 2000 rpm on that size endmill with same feed. Aluminum finish is decent but polished endmill from a high tier manufacturer would give you excellent results. I like those from YG-1 which are very reasonably priced.
I will definitely try them
How a flat surface is obtained is compared to a high accuracy class surface plate. With an oil paint, e.g. Prussian blue
good question, i haven't checked it yet. i was focused on the surface finish mostly.
@@PiotrFoxWysocki You cannot refuse to sand-grind parts that require surface quality. :(
Try PCD fly cutter plz
I would like to see your machine to test some cheap DLC endmills, i do get great surface finish from those endmills, but i belive you will get mirror surfaces for sure! 8mm 3 flute is the one i have, and i use that one as a finisher.
Also, you went way too slow on the steel ;) way lower rpm or faster feedrate :) look up FSwizard as an app on your phone, that one is great for getting a ballparked feeds and speeds, and you get quite abit of materials on the free version.
Yeah, i was craving for those for some time now. i guess i will have to dedicate a day to find something decent and order.
i kinda figured out that there was something wrong with the steel :) thing is that i never cut steel so I never looked speeds and feeds.
everyone is going slow so i wet slow as well :) as you said too slow :)
but yeah hardened steel for me atm is a black magic :D
@@PiotrFoxWysocki it will handle steel quite well to be honest, perhaps not as production, but for some parts now and then.
i found my DLC coated endmills at Aliexpress, about 10-15$ for an 8mm.
i will see if i can do a steel test on mine again on day amd post out, i have done 10mm depth and 0.3 aswell, went fine, but you get by far better surface finish.
when thinking about it, mine has taken some tests on hardened steel aswell, as have i had some taste on the hardened jaws on my vise..
@Kjetor i just want them for aluminium. As you have seen steel is not my thing 😉
@@PiotrFoxWysocki hehe, not quite the right spindle for steel.
i have a 4 poled 3kw, it has quite abit more power at lower rpm's, so that helps me abit
what is the repeatable accuracy of your homebuilt CNC?
Once you set the feed and speed. Tool deflection etc. Then its all the same. With in micron or few. Its precise more than enough for 99.99% of parts i make
@@PiotrFoxWysocki are you a mechanical engineer? How do you know so much about engineering to build a precision CNC?
I am. I learned at school about machines etc. But it was vert long time ago. I have built a lot of stuff and building a cnc machine is not that hard. Most important, it has to be as rigid as it is possible. Precision comes from granite surface plate as a base to take measurements from. And the rest is the common sense based on the first principles. I guess you need to have some experience with cnc machines, so you know what is what. I gues it is a great simplification but it explains a lot in fewer words 🤔😉
Te stalowe kawałki stali były pewnie hartowane więc stąd iskry. S=4200obr/min f=850mm/min i chłodziwo wtedy Ae spokojnie 0.5mm. Widać to po powierzchni i dźwięku. Zrobiłbyś jeszcze test sztywności śrub i prowadnic. Zatrzymać silniki i działać siłą wzdłuż śrub napędowych mierząc ugięcia czujnikiem zegarowym na elementach osi maszyny.
ano to bylo hartowane, widze ze pojechalem za wolno i za szybko :) 10000rpm i 400mm/min. dzieki za podpowiedz.
z tym testem to sie spozniles, bo juz zrobilem testy serw. przez przypadek pojechalem deko za mocno na Z, i wyszlo prawie 700kg naciku :) ale bez czujnika zegarowego. jak ogladalem video to nic nie bylo widac zeby cokolwiek drgnelo na gantry.
@@PiotrFoxWysocki Chodziło mi żebyś ręcznie pociągnął np za Y wzdłuż śruby i czujnikiem zmierzył wychylenie krzyżaka. Serwa mają trzymać pozycję, tak jak krokówki po podaniu zasilania. Pokaże to luzy na nakrętkach kulowych. O ile jakieś są.
A to to sprawdzalem jak maszybe skladalem. Mialem trochre problemow z X ale wymienilem lozyska i przy nacisku 30-50kg wskazowka ani drgnie. Z AXIS W przod i tyl ma ok 10 mikronow na 20kg. To bede musial to poprawic. Cala reszta ani drgnie.
better tools definitely!!!
This having only 20k views is funny part..
Is that the Chinese 2.2kw spindle?
yes and no :) its chinese but 2.5kw ATC th-cam.com/video/h9q6j7POgOI/w-d-xo.html
@@PiotrFoxWysocki Is ATC better in regard of rigidity than er32 or er20?
Atc stands for automatic tool change. 🔧
Actually it should decrease the maximum rigidity.
Because its one extra piece.
Spindle -》tool holder -》er20 collet -》endmill
Are you from Poland?
Originally. I live in New Zealand 🇳🇿
@@PiotrFoxWysocki heh.. I am from Belarus... And thinkig about moving to poland)
@@skrebneveugene5918 the grass is greener on the other side of the fence ;) well. Here is green whole year ;)
@@PiotrFoxWysocki oh... Its not safe now in Belarus) but good joke about grass)
Again?! I guess i will have to look it up, I'm behind with news, like 6 months or something. Sorry to hear...
i cant believe you bailed when the sparks started :(
Hahaha 😁 yeah im a chicken sh... 😉 and i thought i lasted long ;)😆 in my defence it is my only one steel endmill and i didnt wanted to blow it up, just in case i will need it one day.
You'll get there :)
love your work dude. :)
i just purchased the jgl-125 :) :)
Thanks 😊 125? What a monster 😳 bt30?. Congrats 👏
@@PiotrFoxWysocki it shipped today. i cant wait!! :)
lets hope its as good as the little brother!
I bet it is better. 👏
I think your surface cuting speed is way to fast how it looks, I usualy cut steel at 150-200m. And second paralells are usualy heat treated. We do hardmilling at work as well. But try some mild steel next time.
for cutting steel you need less cutting speed. i mean speed at which cutting edge travels trough material. in this try you have sparks from too much rpm and too less of a chip load.
your machine is absolutely capable of cutting steel with 6mm end mills (or 8mm roughing end mill). all you need is some research on speeds and feeds.
good way to start is to look at cutting charts from tool manufacturers. here you can choose similar tool and download some cutting data www.helicaltool.com/products/tool-type/steels/4-flute-steels
How does this compare to Kern?
good question, i haven't seen anything so close up from Kern machine. Would be cool to have a reference, so i know how far i could push it.
Do you not own a surface roughness tester? Lol
climb cuts! = bad
and magnetised
I will have to try it the other way. Maybe it will look even better 😉
Information. When you dint try Toolox33+44 try that steel. Almost perfect steel to mill shiny.