That's a well thought out mod I've seen all the other mods to lower the rear but it's always to my eye made the front seem high now you've sorted that does it effect crawling capabilities 👏👏👏
Awesome man! I heard you mention leaky shocks. In case you didn’t know Element shocks leak less if they’re not tightened up a lot. Just snug and a squeak past that zero uggaduggas.
@Phil Brindley I actually find reducing the front shock travel by 5mm improves the overall performance. I am in general not a big fan of too much flex. I got the idea to limit the front shocks from Gabe of Gspeed Chassis. On my LCG cheater rig, I have my front shocks set up this way, and I never had any issues. So give it a try.
@geoffrey willamson Thanks. With this mod, I am not able to match the 1/2 inch drop in the rear, but it drops the front end enough that I am happy with it.
@Oui Oui dans un VR Thanks for the pointer. That was an earlier mod at least the inverting of the link mount, but I intentional kept the current hole. It's a great way to lower the REAR ride height and help with CG.
@@BigSungHobbies I have desert lizard internal spring shocks on my enduro sandero hd and shock keys there such a great car I sold my trx4 for my element its so much more capable probably as it is a lot lighter it has a sidewinder 4 and a revolver v2 it's awesome
Cool!!! I believe ill either buy shorter shocks or that $10 stuff to angle shocks to get it lowered..as doing the whole shock assembly is kinda complicated 😢😅
I don't think you need shorter shocks. The shocks that are on Ecto's are great. Angling shocks might be daunting at first, but it really isn't. Play around with it. Good luck.
Maybe move the hoops back but switch side of the rail they mount to So your body post is still facing forward, maybe that will reach the original body holes
Unscrewing the coils does not change travel of the shock, but you are adjusting the preload. Preload allows the tension to press the tire more firmly to the ground and increases traction and react properly to the changing terrain...too much preload is not good, but not enough (which is when you unscrew the coils) is not good either. As for travel, it's a 90mm shock, and you get 90mm of shock travel. Leaning the shocks inward does three things: 1) makes the spring a softer rate, 2) you gain more wheel travel with the same amount of shock travel, and 3) it lowers overall ride height of the chassis (LCG). There is a whole science to shock tuning.
It's a bit tough to explain in words, but yes, effectively provides two things: a bit of droop and increased shock travel. With the shocks mounted 90 degrees for example if you have 25mm of shock travel then the wheel/tire will travel the same 25mm...With the shock angled (and this changes with the amount of degrees of angle and does have a limit before reaching diminishing returns) the shock will travel less than the wheel will move so now that 25mm of shock travel can equal 27.5mm maybe 28mm of wheel travel despite the same 25mm of shock travel.
Lowering the ride height does not change the clearance of the axle height. That remains constant. The only change will be the lowered belly height which will impact clearance; however, the benefit of lowered CG far outweighs the slight decrease of belly clearance. There are pros and cons to every change. The key is to find the right balance.
@@BigSungHobbies ===SAGE ADVICE MY FRIEND. I have an Ecto . It does exceptionally well in its RTR state. But....it really truly needs wheels and tires. Just my opinion.....
These two mods sacrifice clearance and travel for a lower ride height. No Bueno! If all you're doing is climbing...OK but you're robbing Peter to pay Paul. These mods suck. How about we increase clearance, keep our travel, increase articulation and lower our ride height all at the same time. It's possible, easy and I've have done it to my ecto.
I would love to see how you are able to achieve all that. For every mod, there is pros and cons, and it sounds like you are able to achieve all pros while no cons. As a Team Driver for Gspeed, I have quite extensive knowledge and experience on setting up cheater rigs and your mods seem to defy the laws of science. Nonetheless if it works for you great 👍
@@BigSungHobbies I totally agree, all set ups are a compromise. There is no perfect set to do everything but here goes....flip the mounts on the rear axle, attach trailing arms to the top, grind off lower mount flush, there's your much improved clearance, next scrap the rear sway bar, set lower ride height with bungy limiting strap running from the pumpkin up to the frame dead center in the rear. There's your lower ride height with full articulation, next use two more bungy limiting straps in place of swaybar to set travel to your liking. It allows the axle to raise an lower under tension and much less unabaided than with the sway bar...not to mention the tension and length of travel is totally adjustable to your liking. Leave the front alone. Leave yourself full articulation in the front, just adjust your shock springs to full soft. So there it is, clearance raised, ride height lowered, full articulation is maintained nothing really sacrificed and for zero dollars if you have a bungy strap. She'll crawl like a Billy goat with some brass and fresh rubber. I like the jconcepts ruptures.
That's a well thought out mod I've seen all the other mods to lower the rear but it's always to my eye made the front seem high now you've sorted that does it effect crawling capabilities 👏👏👏
Thank you. I definitely like the look of the stance better, and more importantly it will help with crawling performance.
Awesome man! I heard you mention leaky shocks. In case you didn’t know Element shocks leak less if they’re not tightened up a lot. Just snug and a squeak past that zero uggaduggas.
Thanks for the info. A bit of green slime and not over tightening goes really long ways.
Cool tune crawler, good work bro!)🤩💥💯👍👏
Thank you 🙏
Detailed and well done 👍🏻 video
Thank you so very much for the comment! Greatly appreciate it.
Nice. Clever mod
Thank you!
Great work Sung, well done. Do you find the reduced shock travel detrimental to performance?
Hi Phil this looks a cracking mod to level up the Ecto I love how it looks now and isn't it so bloody simple LOL
@Phil Brindley I actually find reducing the front shock travel by 5mm improves the overall performance. I am in general not a big fan of too much flex. I got the idea to limit the front shocks from Gabe of Gspeed Chassis. On my LCG cheater rig, I have my front shocks set up this way, and I never had any issues. So give it a try.
@geoffrey willamson Thanks. With this mod, I am not able to match the 1/2 inch drop in the rear, but it drops the front end enough that I am happy with it.
@Oui Oui dans un VR Thanks for the pointer. That was an earlier mod at least the inverting of the link mount, but I intentional kept the current hole. It's a great way to lower the REAR ride height and help with CG.
@@Clodercs more specific maybe ? Pics some how ?
Great mod thanks sung
You are welcome. Give it a try and let me know what you think.
@@BigSungHobbies I have desert lizard internal spring shocks on my enduro sandero hd and shock keys there such a great car I sold my trx4 for my element its so much more capable probably as it is a lot lighter it has a sidewinder 4 and a revolver v2 it's awesome
That sounds like a killer build.
Cool!!! I believe ill either buy shorter shocks or that $10 stuff to angle shocks to get it lowered..as doing the whole shock assembly is kinda complicated 😢😅
I don't think you need shorter shocks. The shocks that are on Ecto's are great. Angling shocks might be daunting at first, but it really isn't. Play around with it. Good luck.
@@BigSungHobbies oh ok cool, I do like the hair bans to lower the truck also!!
Wow!!! It comes with adjustable shocks?? 😮😮 does this go for all element ectos??
I don't believe they have changed it for the newer ectos, so I think it should. Good luck.
@@BigSungHobbiesI saw a video where the zuul can be lowered front as back.cool. thanks
Maybe move the hoops back but switch side of the rail they mount to
So your body post is still facing forward, maybe that will reach the original body holes
I ended up using 3d printed shock key and it's been working well.
Would this work on the sendero hd? I would think it would interfere with the body. Great channel! I subbed and really enjoy the videos#
Yes, it should work on Sendero HD. The worse thing that can happen is to purchase either shock key or shock tower. So give it a try.
Thx bro will do to my ecto
Great 👍
Is that an M3 bolt?
Yes, M3 x 25mm.
@@BigSungHobbies that's what I thought, but wanted to make sure. Thank you for your time. I have learned a lot from all your videos.
No problem. I should have mentioned that it is M3 screw. And thanks for watching my videos.
Do you need a high clearance panhard link after that mod?
The mod only drops the front ride height by 1/4 inch, so I did not see a need for one, but having a high clearance panhard link will always be better.
Why don’t you unscrew the coils ? I’m confused. That will drop the front a lot
Unscrewing the coils does not change travel of the shock, but you are adjusting the preload. Preload allows the tension to press the tire more firmly to the ground and increases traction and react properly to the changing terrain...too much preload is not good, but not enough (which is when you unscrew the coils) is not good either. As for travel, it's a 90mm shock, and you get 90mm of shock travel. Leaning the shocks inward does three things: 1) makes the spring a softer rate, 2) you gain more wheel travel with the same amount of shock travel, and 3) it lowers overall ride height of the chassis (LCG). There is a whole science to shock tuning.
@@BigSungHobbies hmmmmm so angling them backward helps lower a bit but makes it softer and gives more shock travel or droop?
It's a bit tough to explain in words, but yes, effectively provides two things: a bit of droop and increased shock travel. With the shocks mounted 90 degrees for example if you have 25mm of shock travel then the wheel/tire will travel the same 25mm...With the shock angled (and this changes with the amount of degrees of angle and does have a limit before reaching diminishing returns) the shock will travel less than the wheel will move so now that 25mm of shock travel can equal 27.5mm maybe 28mm of wheel travel despite the same 25mm of shock travel.
why not use the pen spring mod? but nice tips :) would you recommend the ecto for class 2 comp rig?
Element shocks do not need pen spring mod. They are quite good. Ecto will be a good baseline as C2.
I'm confused want lowering everything like this cause you to hang up more
Lowering the ride height does not change the clearance of the axle height. That remains constant. The only change will be the lowered belly height which will impact clearance; however, the benefit of lowered CG far outweighs the slight decrease of belly clearance. There are pros and cons to every change. The key is to find the right balance.
@@BigSungHobbies ===SAGE ADVICE MY FRIEND. I have an Ecto . It does exceptionally well in its RTR state.
But....it really truly needs wheels and tires. Just my opinion.....
@@vwagon5566 Yes, I fully agree. It's one of the upgrades that Ecto will benefit tremendously.
Just use limiter straps
Thanks for the info.
These two mods sacrifice clearance and travel for a lower ride height. No Bueno! If all you're doing is climbing...OK but you're robbing Peter to pay Paul. These mods suck. How about we increase clearance, keep our travel, increase articulation and lower our ride height all at the same time. It's possible, easy and I've have done it to my ecto.
I would love to see how you are able to achieve all that. For every mod, there is pros and cons, and it sounds like you are able to achieve all pros while no cons. As a Team Driver for Gspeed, I have quite extensive knowledge and experience on setting up cheater rigs and your mods seem to defy the laws of science. Nonetheless if it works for you great 👍
@@BigSungHobbies I totally agree, all set ups are a compromise. There is no perfect set to do everything but here goes....flip the mounts on the rear axle, attach trailing arms to the top, grind off lower mount flush, there's your much improved clearance, next scrap the rear sway bar, set lower ride height with bungy limiting strap running from the pumpkin up to the frame dead center in the rear. There's your lower ride height with full articulation, next use two more bungy limiting straps in place of swaybar to set travel to your liking. It allows the axle to raise an lower under tension and much less unabaided than with the sway bar...not to mention the tension and length of travel is totally adjustable to your liking. Leave the front alone. Leave yourself full articulation in the front, just adjust your shock springs to full soft. So there it is, clearance raised, ride height lowered, full articulation is maintained nothing really sacrificed and for zero dollars if you have a bungy strap. She'll crawl like a Billy goat with some brass and fresh rubber. I like the jconcepts ruptures.
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