ไม่สามารถเล่นวิดีโอนี้
ขออภัยในความไม่สะดวก
Bartlein Barrels, Sniper's Hide Talks Barrel Break In
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.ค. 2014
- Visiting Bartlein Barrels to see how they make the barrels they do, talking Break In and Cleaning
Sniper's Hide Online Video
Visit www.snipershide.com
Or chat in our forum at forum.snipershi...
I wish all the video game snipers would watch this... I have been breaking in barrels the same way for 40 years --- when I get a new rifle, I run a brush through it to remove anything that might be left over from the factory, then shoot the hell out of it, clean when necessary...
The best barrel break in video I've seen.
This is good advice, I have seen guys recomend cleaning after every round for the first 10 rounds and then after every 5 rounds for the next 50 to break a barrel in, this is ridiculous.
How does their barrel break-in process affect you again?
Damn sure can't hurt. You get one chance to break them in and the fact that this yahoo mentions COPPER IN THE BORE as a result of the "throat"being "polished" when COPPER FOULING is the result of gas bypassing the bullet at the point of fouling and sure as hell is a BIG FUCKING DEAL to me if I just spent hundreds of dollars on a new fucking barrel. Idiots clearly have never tried removing copper fouling with the shitty copper fouling remover we have today and if these fucktards think "fouling shots" are actually improving accuracy by making the barrel dirty when the "cold bore flier" is so fucking obviously the result of a rifle being "sighted in", fired, cased, transported, uncased, cleaned, safed etc so the SCOPE INTERNAL PARTS END UP "UNSEATED" AT THE ELEVATION ADJUSTMENT AND TAKE A SHOT TO "SETTLE IN" THE NEXT TIME ITS FIRED AND ALL THE "GUN EXPERTS" IN THE WORLD HAVE BEEN "DEBATING" SOMETHING SO OBVIOUS ITS NOT EVEN FUNNY .
There is alot of voodoo in barrel break in and reloading as well. I think the manufacturing now from a good supplier is just much more consistent than before. Skip the head ache and just shoot the dam thing.
It’s how the military does it if you don’t have a match grade barrel it might be a good idea
@@deeremeyer1749 the same way this guys comment effected you i guess snowflake
i build a lot of F Class rifles and i have been using Bartlein barrels exclusively and have been very very impressed with them.
What i did with my Noveskie barrel on my AR15..... Load 2 60rnd mags and dump them ome after the other.... Run 2 or 3 patches and proceed to run a carbine class of 3K rnds and not clean it. Still shoots MOA after 6k + rnds
our marine snipers do, however the rest of the military doesnt... they also dont shot sub moa... not saying its bro science or not. im just saying there is a lot more to worry about with our rack grade weapons than barrel break in as far as accuracy lol
@Bravo 4 I've been resurrected! I'm not saying our precision rigs aren't moa or better. My issued m110 always was, and still is the easiest shooting semi auto I've used. That thing was like point, pull, hit. But I know they had a break in procedure because I've been around when we got a new pair of rebarrled m110s straight from Quantico.
@Bravo 4 besides my point was mis written. I should have said that most sniper rifles/precision rigs were broken in. Rack grade m4s m16s IAR's etc were not, because it wasn't important, units neither have the time, or allowance to break in every new rifle they get. But also their rifles don't shoot moa (except the IAR's sometimes) so you can't say if it works or not.
I don't break in my ar barrels. I do break in my bolt guns and my mws barrels.
I just caught a video stating the sharp angled cases accelerate the erosion. Shoulder angles focusing the blast against the chamber walls instead of up the barrel.
Ive always just taken my new gun home gave it a good cleaning went to the range and shot it 5 shot group stop let cool another 5 shot group let cool check the barrel if it looks good ill do a quick cleaning then shoot 5 rounds zero and leave it at that. My best shooting rifle is a remingtion 700 long range tactical it has a factory stainless steel barrel on it 1/12 twist got about 1200 rounds threw it and it shoots dime groups at 100. I clean the carbon out of the barrel and most of the time i leave the copper in it unless i see a build up at the muzzle or throat never good to over clean good way to loose your zero every time you go home.
...100 yards... my 22lr can do that at 100.when you start trying over 500 out to 1000 you'll be all over.
+Derek smith I've been long range shooting for a long time a high quality rifle barrel dose not need to be broken in and my rifles are all 1000 yard shooters.
na shoots better fouled I know I shoot 1000yds also do testing at 500
Great piece
Awesome video 😊
Excellent video.. this is exactly what I've been telling people for years.
In fact I've had people tell me they never needed to clean a barrel and then them sell a rifle becuase it didnt shoot well, and I've pushed 9-10 green patches out of it.
You always let the gun dictate this.. if you can go 200-300 rounds w/out cleaning, great, if you can go 4, great.
But don't fall for the hype that you do not need to clean or properly break in a BBL.
Wow a snipers hide video that allows comments
Great video thanks !
Barrel cleaning should have wet patch when you get the gun just to remove leftover shipping dust and debris. Fire a few of LOW speed handloads rounds to smooth out the throat. Then run a patch or two to remove the major propellant junk (not the copper). Just shoot to determine optimum rounds until accuracy falls off and then clean most(not all) the green copper out. Keep a record and you will be consistent with fouling load to accuracy for optimum dependable shooting. NEVER hunt with a clean gun!.
barrel break in is a myth. youre groups will be more accurate from a dirty barrel. thats why your first shot is always a flyer..not because the barrel is cold but because its clean. clean it if its going to sit for a while but don't think you need to clean it every time you shoot a few rounds
Weird how those "fliers" don't happen in clean pistol or rifle barrels and guns that aren't equipped with cheap, overpriced "optics" made by companies that haven't made "optics" COLLECTIVELY as long as some "inferior" companies have been making rifle scopes since they INVENTED the "modern" rifle scope, huh? Cold-bore flyers are caused by taking a "benchrest" rifle off the shooting bench, flipping it around and standing it on its butt stock and laying it in a hard or soft case, throwing it in the back of a pickup or SUV or the trunk of a car, bouncing it around back there for a couple or a couple dozen or couple hundred miles, getting it out, taking it into the "gun room, uncasing it, tossing it on the bench, jerking the bolt out of it, cleaning it, reassembling it and NOT putting a very light film of oil in the bore like SMART shooters do STAINLESS STEEL OR NOT (I've got a dozen or more rifles from .22LR to .50 BMG and made in 1914 to a few years old and semi-auto to bolt-action and AR15s to an LR308 to an M1 Garand to an M1A and have "built" and/or owned and/or fired hundreds of rifles in my life and am YET to see one shoot better DIRTY than CLEAN and am still waiting to see any of my 6 or 8 handguns from SA revolvers to 1911s to "plastic" pistols in .22LR, 9mm, .40, .45, .45 Colt, .460 Rowland and .223 Remington (7.5" AR pistol of the REAL variety with a pistol buffer tube I shoot LIKE A PISTOL and have killed prairie dogs with at 70-100 yards with just a cheap Chinese "reflex sight" with a mound for a "benchrest") magically start shooting better "fouled" than clean. Got a Les Baer 1911 that has the 1.5" @ 50 yards accuracy guarantee and an old Reminton R1 that doesn't shoot TOO much "worse" than it does and my "plastic" pistol is an SA XD(M) Compact 3.8 in .40 where the "M" stands for MATCH so I should probably see any or all of those start shooting better "fouled" right? Hmm. There must be something magic about "copper fouling" that lead fouling just can't match when it comes to making guns shoot "better" because early on in my bullet-casting career I cast some "dead soft" bullets in .45 and .40 and in several different styles and weights and made the mistake of loading them like they were jacketed or plated bullets. Leaded all three of those pistols up pretty badly. Trust me when I tell you they don't shoot better "fouled". Just like NO GUN SHOOTS BETTER "DIRTY" LIKE NO MACHINE PERIOD WORKS BETTER "DIRTY" THAN IT DOES CLEAN. The only things that work better when "hot and dirty" ain't got nothing to do with "firearms", sweetheart.
😂 your telling me a cold bore shot is a clean barrel and it’s a flyer wow
Pretty and smart
Did you ever notice the price of a quality barrel in today's market is NOTHING compared to the cost of a out of state big game license.. If you miss a once in a lifetime shot due only to a marginal barrel at range.. What were you thinking???
Oki, know I understand why my cold forged barrel (sako trg-42) shots well when no clean at all or just go with the soft brush just to remove some dust ;) Great video
Your cold forged barrel isn't remotely like the barrels these idiots who claim copper fouling in a brand-new, high-quality barrel is "normal" are flapping their gums about. Literally everything they said during their "explanations" and "discussion" is 100% counter to what everybody else with good barrels, good bullets and most importantly GOOD "OPTICS" experiences with new AND used rifles NO MATTER WHAT MAKE, MODEL, BARREL MATERIAL, BARREL LENGTH AND CHAMBERING. Its not a barrel "too clean" that causes "cold bore fliers". It's NOT cleaning a barrel often enough during BREAK-IN, starting with a DRY barrel instead of a very lightly oiled one and especially with a STAINLESS STEEL barrel given it's "roughness" and the difficulty getting one "lapped" with a LEAD SLUG which is what is used to lap steel barrels when freshly machined at the "factory" and shooting "hot" ammo through a fucking dumbass "gain twist" barrel that FORCES THE BULLET TO "SLOW DOWN" AND SPIN MORE TIMES PER UNIT OF DISTANCE TRAVELED AND ALL WHILE THE RIFLING IS "ENGRAVING" SOME "NEW" AND "FASTER" RIFLING INTO IT THE WHOLE TIME AS PRESSURE BEHIND IT GETS HIGHER AND HIGHER AND MORE AND MORE GAS LEAKS BY THE BULLET AND BETWEEN IT AND THE RIFLING AND ESPECIALLY WITH BULLETS THAT HAVE THOSE STUPID FUCKING "DRIVING BANDS" THAT ARE BUILT-IN LEAK POINTS ON BULLETS INTENTIONALLY MADE TOO SMALL TO "RIDE" THE LANDS INSTEAD OF BEING "OBTURATED" INTO THEM THAT CAUSE COPPER FOULING THAT IF NOT REMOVED IMMEDIATELY AND THAT ONLY GETS "IRONED" DEEPER INTO THE LANDS WITH EACH BULLET FIRED AND GETS WORK-HARDENED AS WELL. WHEN THE COPPER FOULING IS VISIBLE AT THE MUZZLE, ITS BECAUSE THERE IS GAS LEAKING BY THE BULLET AND MELTING ITS SURFACE AND "SOLDERING" THAT MELTED METAL RIGHT TO THE FUCKING STEEL OF THE BARREL. AND THE "COLD BORE FLIERS" ARE THE RESULT OF TAKING THAT FOULED PIECE OF SHIT OFF THE SHOOTING BENCH, PUTTING IT IN A CASE AND TOSSING IT IN THE TRUNK OF A CAR OR BACK OF A PICKUP OR SUV AFTER POSING WITH PICTURES WITH THE DAMNED THING STANDING UPRIGHT ON ITS BUTTSTOCK AND MAYBE LEANING AGAINST THE "RIFLE RACK" AND THEN BOUNCING IT AROUND IN A CASE FOR TENS OR HUNDREDS OF MILES, GETTING IT OUT, TAKING THE RIFLE OUT OF THE CASE, TOSSING IT BACK ON ANOTHER BENCH, CLEANING IT, PUTTING IT BACK IN A CASE OR SAFE AND THEN HAULING IT BACK TO THE RANGE AGAIN REVERSING ALL THAT PROCEDURE PUTTING IT BACK ON THE SHOOTING BENCH. WHERE HAVING A PIECE OF SHIT, OVERPRICED AND COMPLETELY "WRONG" SO-CALLED "LONG-RANGE" AND "HIGH-END" SCOPE ON IT MADE BY A COMPANY THAT HASN'T BEEN MAKING SCOPES FOR EVEN 30 YEARS AND DOESN'T MAKE A DAMNED THING IN THE WAY OF "COMPLEX" OPTICS LIKE BINOCULARS AND TRULY "HIGH-END" SCOPES WITH HIGH MAGNIFICATION AND 1/8 MOA ADJUSTMENTS AND FOR GETTING BEAT AROUND HUNTING IN TREE STANDS AND PICKUP TRUCKS AND ON HORSEBACK IN SCABBARDS AND SUCH FOR DECADES AND DECADES ENDS UP HAVING THE ELEVATION/WINDAGE ADJUSTMENTS AND MIRROR ASSEMBLY "UNSEATED" FROM WHERE IT HAD BEEN "SETTLED" WHEN THE RIFLE WAS FIRED LAST AND ADJUSTED WITH THE RIFLE UPRIGHT AND LEVEL IS WHAT REALLY CAUSES THOSE "MYSTERIOUS" SO-CALLED "COLD BORE FLYERS" SO-CALLED "GUN EXPERTS" BLAME ON A RIFLE BEING "TOO CLEAN" WHICH WOULD MAKE THEIR "HIGH-END" RIFLES THE ONLY MACHINES IN THE WORLD THAT WORK BETTER "HOT AND DIRTY" THAN THEY DO "COOL AND CLEAN" SINCE NO OTHER "PRECISION" RIFLES/SHOOTERS HAVE THAT ISSUE WITH "GOOD GLASS" MADE BY COMPANIES THAT MAKE "HIGH-END" HUNTING SCOPES AND WE DON'T HAVE THAT ISSUE WITH "IRON SIGHTS" OR "REFLEX SIGHTS"
OR FIXED POWER SCOPES OR ANYTHING ELSE WITH A RIFLED BARREL, ENOUGH "INHERENT ACCURACY" TO BE ABLE TO "SPOT" A "COLD BORE FLYER" IF IT OCCURRED AND ANY TYPE OF SIGHTS THAT DOESN'T COST MULTIPLE THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS FOR A "TACTICAL" PIECE OF SHIT THE COMPANY BUILDING "REPLACES" OR "IMPROVES" OR "UPGRADES" EVERY OTHER YEAR OR TWO, IS CONTINUALLY INTRODUCING "NEW" PRODUCTS FOR EVEN MORE RIDICULOUS AMOUNTS OF MONEY AND THAT HAS MADE A SHITLOAD OF MONEY SELLING "OPTICS" THAT ARE LITERALLY "CHEAP" EVEN BY SOME "LOW-END" OPTIC STANDARDS BECAUSE THEY HAVE THEIR FUCKING GLASS GLUED INTO THE FUCKING TUBES INSTEAD OF IN A "BUSHING" THAT HAS A RUBBER O-RING SEAL BOTH BETWEEN THE GLASS BUSHING AND BETWEEN THE BUSHING AND TUBE IN SCOPES OWNED BY "SHOOTERS" THAT WON'T EVER TAKE THEM WITHIN MILES OF A DEER STAND, PICKUP CAB (UNLESS THEY'RE CASED ON THE BACK SEAT OR SOMETHING) OR ANYWHERE ELSE SCOPES AND RIFLES GET THEIR SCRAPES, SCRATCHES, BUMPS AND BRUISES AND GO DECADES WITHOUT LOSING ZERO IF THEY'RE GOOD TO BEGIN WITH AN NOT OVERPRICED, OVERRATED "HIGH-END" OPTICS THAT REALLY JUST "WON" ALL THOSE "MILITARY CONTRACTS" BECAUSE...LOW BIDDER. OF COURSE THE U.S. MILITARY HAS FAR MORE LEUPOLD "OPTICS" IN USE THAN "NIGHTFORCE" AND "U.S. OPTICS" AND "SCHMIDT & BENDER" COMBINED WHICH ISN'T SURPRISING SINCE LEUPOLD HAS BEEN BUILDING "OPTICS" SINCE BEFORE THE GREAT DEPRESSION AND RIFLE SCOPES LONGER THAN THOSE THREE "STARTUPS" COMBINED HAVE BEEN BUILDING OPTICS PERIOD.
BUT WHAT WERE YOU SAYING ABOUT 'GOOD" INFORMATION OR ADVICE? HERE'S A LITTLE HINT. IF YOU LET INTERNET "EXPERTS" DO YOUR "THINKING" FOR YOU I FEEL SORRY FOR YOU BECAUSE YOU'RE LISTENING TO "EXPERTS" WHO DO NOTHING BUT "SELL" THEIR "GOODS" AND "SERVICES" TO A BUNCH OF "NOOBS" WHO HAVE PROBABLY BEEN "GUN GUYS" JUST A LITTLE LESS TIME THAN THOSE "EXPERTS" HAVE. "EXPERTS" WHO LIKE THOSE "HIGH-END" SCOPES NOBODY IN THE "GUN COMMUNITY" HAD HEARD OF UNTIL THEY GOT INTO THE "GUN INDUSTRY" AND IMMEDIATELY BECAME SMARTER AND MORE EXPERIENCED AND MORE KNOWLEDGEABLE THAN DECADES AND DECADES AND GENERATIONS AND GENERATIONS OF "GUN EXPERTS" WHO SPENT/SPEND ONE HELL OF A LOT MORE TIME SHOOTING AND HANDLING AND MAINTAINING AND WORKING ON AND BUILDING GUNS IN ANY GIVEN MONTH THAN THESE "CELEBRITY" GUN WANNABES DO IN A YEAR. AND DOING IT WITH THEIR OWN GUNS AND NOT ""LOANER" GUNS OR "CUSTOMER" GUNS/BARRELS OR GUNS THEIR "BUSINESS" OWNS THAT ARE "TEST GUNS" AND "TOOLS" AND THEREFORE "FREE" AND "TAX DEDUCTIBLE" TO BOOT.
ANY TIME THREE "GUN EXPERTS" SIT THERE AND TELL YOU COPPER FOULING IS OK WHEN THERE ARE SURE AS HELL COPPER FOULING REMOVAL PRODUCTS THAT MUST EXIST FOR NO REASON IF COPPER FOULING IS A "GOOD THING" THAT WILL "SETTLE IN" AND MAKES RIFLES SHOOT BETTER, DON'T BE AN "EXPERT" ALONG WITH THEM AND DON'T "ENCOURAGE" THEM OR OTHERS WHO ALSO "ADMIRE" THEM TO BE DUMBASSES BY "PRAISING" THEIR IDIOCY AND AFFIRMING YOURS.
Woaw... don't know what answer to that... little block of text... But when I just clean peacefully (your comments looks like a few less peacefully but I'am not english so maybe not full understood) my barrel, leaving some carbone coating (clean but not as after build at the factory) my result and my speed are more consitent. But found the degree of cleaning after years of shooting this rifle. So my comment was just to show I understood what they said this cause for me, it's right (for my rifle). If you want to know, my group is always between 0.35 and 0.75 moa at 100 meters depending on me (tired or not, -15° C or good sunny day, 5 bullets group to 10 bullets group). Have a nice day
This info is coming from a company that sells barrels do they want them to last a long time or do they want to sell a lot of them.... military breaks in rifles wrong do they sell barrels or try to get the most out of them just saying I don’t care either way I clean mine never had a problem not saying I needed to but it sure did make me feel good
Nice
Ppl
Brux barrels are better IMO. Bartlein is good don't get me wrong, but Brux seem to shoot better.
Kegger is better with peachtree schnapps
I just bought a 6 dasher 30in Brux been shot a few times but suppose to be very good can't wait fer it to get here in a few days
"Precision rifles" - the only machines in the world that are better off and work better hot and dirty than cool and clean. You bet. Do these barrels come with any kind of "accuracy guarantee"? How about a "service life" guarantee? I'm asking because when somebody who makes something "disposable" anyway and also "recommends" getting it and keeping it dirty and continuing to NOT "break it in" until it "settles in" and that it NEEDS to be "fouled" to be "accurate" and "precise" who DOESN'T stand behind their product but benefits from it wearing out or not "settling in" because "every barrel is different" when it comes to putting two "identical" barrels side by side in the same action, etc and explaining why their "precision" products don't produce "repeatable" results, might not be the best "experts" on "breaking-in" barrels.
Especially when they cite an example of a barrel "wearing out" and shooting HIGHER.
YOu're a crack smoker Bartlein makes world class barrels and all they said was let the barrel tell you, break in is a verified myth designed to screw you, cited on many occasions, I bought two IDENTICAL Rifles, broke one in and shot leaving dirty the other. You cannot tell the difference between the two, they are impossible to determine which is which
BS