well i started this last sunday but due to time and other things i had to do i was forced to put it on hold till thursday when i am off work. My only issue is with my joiner. i got it used about 6 months ago and it does ok with edge joining but not planing. Either that or the 2x4 i got had some serious issues. i planed the hell out of both boards yet they wouldn't join together flat. so i had some pieces after gluing up had small gaps on the edges. i clamped it up well and added some screws in the back for extra measure. i wanted mine to look as clean as yours. i will post link to pics when i am finished.
I had to spend a quite while tweaking the fence on our jointer to get the jointed face and edge to be exactly square. But I would think you should be able to join the two faces and get them to come together nicely. I can't think of what else to try other than to make sure you're applying pressure on the out-feed side of the jointer when you join? Did each piece lay nice and flat on the jointer table's out-feed table?
Any idea of the size of holes you drilled? For the counter bore and the screw hole itself? How deep was the counter bore? Also I assume that the hole for the screw was drilled a bit bigger than the screw itself and isn’t a pilot hole? Thanks!
No, sorry I don't remember what drill bit sizes I used just that the counter-bore diameter was maybe 1/8" bigger than the head of the screw and the clearance hole for the screw was maybe 1/16" larger than the threaded area just for some wiggle room (the screw and threads should pass through it easily). The pilot hole into the wall stud should be the size of the screw's shank *not* including the threads if not a tiny bit smaller. The counter-bore depth depends on the length of screw used, but I would try to leave 1.5" - 2" of thickness in the wood (under the head of the screw). If attaching to a wall stud covered with drywall, you probably want to have 1-3/4" to 2" of the screw sticking out the back so that you get 1" to 1-1/4" of it into the stud (assuming 3/4" thick drywall).
Thanks for making this video.. i am going to be making this tomorrow.. going to go check home depot for some lumber.. I really like the look of the cedar. i was thinking of just using pine but i think the cedar looks nice.. Thanks again this was a simple solution for my kids skateboard issue.
I didn't have one to test, but you might check out the comment on our website article (aroundhomediy.com/build-skateboard-rack/) from someone that made one for longboards. They made the slots a bit wider and increased the distance between slots.
I should have stressed the "wipe-on" part a bit more. I just thinned regular polyurethane with a 1-to-1 mixture of mineral spirits to be able to wipe it on with a rag instead of needing a brush. It takes a few more coats, but to me it was just a bit easier to deal with this way.
I used a couple of these (amzn.to/34a9fGP) 4.5" cabinet into a stud in the wall. There's several similar brands. You probably want 2" or so going into the wall (1/2" into drywall then 1.5" into the stud).
yeah no i did not do that and no it wasnt. it had a wobble in the board everytime. think it was my technique. i have only used this jointet a few times so i probobly need to learn more on how to properly use it. keep in mind i am fairly new to woodworking but i absolutely love it. i love the feeling of having created something by hand and wood is to me one of the best materials to create from
This is the most concise DIY video I've ever seen in my life.
They were all $50 online so this just saved me a lot of money and is a great alternative. Thanks!
Great! I'm glad it was helpful! :)
Brilliant Stuff.
Perfect for completes, Exactly what i need and thanks for the plan too!
Beauty AH DIY
I know what im doing tomorrow, this is perfect
Never would have thought of doing it like that cool
Dude. This is sweet. My daughter got her first board yesterday.
Gonna build a version of this for her.
Made one of my own. Thanks for the idea!
PERFECT! This was exactly what I was looking for. I just used some scrap wood and it came out great. Thank you for the visual.
Awesome! Glad I could help.
I used a 4x4 and cut it on a band saw and table saw
well i started this last sunday but due to time and other things i had to do i was forced to put it on hold till thursday when i am off work. My only issue is with my joiner. i got it used about 6 months ago and it does ok with edge joining but not planing. Either that or the 2x4 i got had some serious issues. i planed the hell out of both boards yet they wouldn't join together flat. so i had some pieces after gluing up had small gaps on the edges. i clamped it up well and added some screws in the back for extra measure. i wanted mine to look as clean as yours. i will post link to pics when i am finished.
I had to spend a quite while tweaking the fence on our jointer to get the jointed face and edge to be exactly square. But I would think you should be able to join the two faces and get them to come together nicely. I can't think of what else to try other than to make sure you're applying pressure on the out-feed side of the jointer when you join? Did each piece lay nice and flat on the jointer table's out-feed table?
Any idea of the size of holes you drilled? For the counter bore and the screw hole itself? How deep was the counter bore? Also I assume that the hole for the screw was drilled a bit bigger than the screw itself and isn’t a pilot hole? Thanks!
No, sorry I don't remember what drill bit sizes I used just that the counter-bore diameter was maybe 1/8" bigger than the head of the screw and the clearance hole for the screw was maybe 1/16" larger than the threaded area just for some wiggle room (the screw and threads should pass through it easily). The pilot hole into the wall stud should be the size of the screw's shank *not* including the threads if not a tiny bit smaller.
The counter-bore depth depends on the length of screw used, but I would try to leave 1.5" - 2" of thickness in the wood (under the head of the screw). If attaching to a wall stud covered with drywall, you probably want to have 1-3/4" to 2" of the screw sticking out the back so that you get 1" to 1-1/4" of it into the stud (assuming 3/4" thick drywall).
@@aroundhomediy That answers my question. Thank you!
Great! Glad it helped!
beautiful, thanks
Do you think this will work with asymmetric longboards as is?
Do you use red cedar?
Yes, this was a piece of reclaimed eastern red cedar that I used. Any type of wood will work fine, but pines might get beat up more over time.
Man this is nice, wish I had some tools 😂
Hey, can a 10" miter saw cut the vertical 45 degree angle or is your miter saw a 12"?
Thanks!
The miter saw I used in this video was a 10", so you should be fine using one.
Sweet, great project btw and thanks for sharing!
hey do you use inches?
Yup
Thanks for making this video.. i am going to be making this tomorrow.. going to go check home depot for some lumber.. I really like the look of the cedar. i was thinking of just using pine but i think the cedar looks nice.. Thanks again this was a simple solution for my kids skateboard issue.
Glad you liked it! I think the cedar turned out pretty well even with a few knot holes in it.
HELLO, Sir,
do you think this rack can hold 40" longboards?
excellent job. 5 stars project.
Best from Brazil.
I didn't have one to test, but you might check out the comment on our website article (aroundhomediy.com/build-skateboard-rack/) from someone that made one for longboards. They made the slots a bit wider and increased the distance between slots.
Around Home DIY this helped me a lot. Thnx for your answer...keep it real.
Good and easy! 👍🏽
When you say "homemade polyurethane" what does that mean? Looks great by the way
I should have stressed the "wipe-on" part a bit more. I just thinned regular polyurethane with a 1-to-1 mixture of mineral spirits to be able to wipe it on with a rag instead of needing a brush. It takes a few more coats, but to me it was just a bit easier to deal with this way.
How did you secure it to the wall?
I used a couple of these (amzn.to/34a9fGP) 4.5" cabinet into a stud in the wall. There's several similar brands. You probably want 2" or so going into the wall (1/2" into drywall then 1.5" into the stud).
@@aroundhomediy thanks so much I just had to visit your site
yeah no i did not do that and no it wasnt. it had a wobble in the board everytime. think it was my technique. i have only used this jointet a few times so i probobly need to learn more on how to properly use it. keep in mind i am fairly new to woodworking but i absolutely love it. i love the feeling of having created something by hand and wood is to me one of the best materials to create from
I'm still getting the hang of it as well, but it's been a lot of fun so far!
Perfect! Thank