I own two Martin outboards one is 1947 the other 1948, they both run on a 15 to I fuel mixture. Man, that's a lot of oil. I wish they were 24 to 1. About ten years ago totally restored both of the insides and out like brand new. It took me and a friend about a year to do both engines. It was a lot of work, but they look and run great!!!!! thank you for your videos!!!
Martins are nice motors. I only own one. Mine is a "60". Probably the most common of all. I have not tried to get mine running yet. I will get to it someday. My primary interest is in the 50-70s OMC motors, but I really enjoy the antiques too. I h Just don't run my antique motors that much. I like to go boating and the classics are more in line with my boating interest. The antique motors I enjoy just because of what they are and from a historical perspective. It is fun to get out on a boat with a 80-100+ year old motor sometimes. Thanks for watching!
Mine are both 60's also. '60s were the most popular of all martin motors and because of that there are more of them around today and they are worthless
Thanks for uploading more videos. Very impressive motor (as per usual). For nearly 5 minutes my mind was out on a lake, not stuck in my house worrying about what's going on in the world. Thank you!
Thank you for watching the videos I uploaded. These are really cool motors. I have 3 of them now. Two are 54s and this one, a 53. They're pretty light for a 15 horse and they run incredibly well. They're a little bit loud, and they vibrate some, but they're strong, durable, and dependable. I'm glad I was able to get your mind on the lake and away from everything else going on in the world right now.
I bought the same motor from a guy who had it stored for 50+ years. Been going through your tune up series and I've found your videos extremely helpful. Thank you! Hope to get it in a test tank in a few weeks.
Awesome to hear that. Congratulations on your motor. These are great old motors. The best running outboards I have ever worked on. Good power and still quite light weight for 25hp. An incredible idle quality with these 20 c.i. 15hps. Enjoy your motor and Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thanks a lot. Are you okay with me sending occasional questions as I figure this all out? Perhaps you'd prefer questions just get posted on the videos.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I'm afraid I've hit some problems I can't get around. Rebuilt the ignition and carb and converted it from a dual line to a single with a pulse pump. I just can't get it to keep running. I think I'm flooding the cylinders but I also wonder if there's a spark issue. Just not sure what else to try.
Great video as per usual! I’ll let you know over on Facebook when I get my qd 13 going. Maybe could you make another video of the qd 13 running? I would really like to see that
Thank you! I'll keep watching for your QD-13. If you want to see a new video of my QD-13 I'll make sure I make one. I'll try to make it part of my next trip to the lake. I have a QD-10 I did a coil conversion on that I need to lake test also. This time I will be running the correct prop on the QD-13. Thanks for watching!
Yes, it is ready for lots of transom time for many years to come again. These are really cool old motors. They're noisy and unrefined but they run great and get lots of looks at the launch when you tug the rope a couple times on the old worn looking thing and it fires off and runs like they do. Thanks for watching, Don!
Awesome video!! We got one that came with a bit. It’s starts up great, but doesn’t have a prop. Do you know what size the prop is or where to get one? Thanks!!
Thank you! 9x10 is typically what is used on these for a general utility prop. The same prop fits later 18hp and even 25hp motors up to 1976. They are still available new. You may also watch ebay for good used ones. Here is a link to the prop from Marineengine.com. www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0763583 Thanks for watching!
Congratulations on your new motor. I have three of the 56 15hp Fastwins. One is a really nice one and the others were junkers. I have revived one of junkers and it is a great and reliable runner. They're excellent motors and very durable. 24:1 gas / oil mixture. Check your coils to see if they are cracked. Many of the original coils are still in these motors. They may still make spark while they're dry, but they'll leave you stranded in the middle of the lake once they arc out or get moisture in them. If the original coils are still there, replace them. The replacements are still readily available and worth every penny for the peace of mind. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 You're not too far from me. I'm located on the western 'burbs of the D. Usually I go to the Detroit River or Lake St. Clair. I fished a pike tournament once at Coldwater Lake, and got some good action.
Mine started flooding fuel out the carburetor after installing a new needle seat and float and I can't seem to figure out why. Does anyone have any suggestion other than the normal things you would check for?
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 no it was not. I wish I hadn't discarded the old parts. Is there any way to bench test it before putting it back together since the fuel Inlet is in the bowl and the float Needle seat is in the upper half?
@@anthonyelmore8448 There is a way to bench test it. First, when you assemble the float and needle & seat set the float so it sits parallel with the body of the carburetor when held upside down. Once that is set, try to blow air through the fuel inlet with the carb upside down. If you can blow through it, there is a leak. Turn the carb right side up.and vlow through and air should easily pass through. Upside down and it should stop the air flow. Also, make sure all the bowl vent openings in the carb body are not obstructed.
If the needle were to stick on this carburetor would fuel bypass and come out the throat of the carb? I'm beginning to believe fuel is not getting in the bowl but coming out the throat of the carb. I'm missing the little spring clip that goes on the noodle. I'm thinking that might help it to pull the needle down so it can fill the bowl.
@@anthonyelmore8448 If fuel is coming out of the throat of the carb it is getting past the open needle valve. If the bowl is not filling and it is coming out the throat, the bowl vents are probably blocked. That is the only thing I have seen cause that issue. If the float is too high, then fuel can come out the carb throat, but because the bowl is over full. My first reccomendation would be to check that both bowl vents in the carburetor body are open and unobstructed.
Thanks for the video! I have this same engine 1954 15012 and that is how it ran its last time 16 years ago and then the pull start spring coil sprang. Life got it in the way.... It then went directly into the shed that same fall here in Northern Indiana and life continued to get in the way... I just pulled it out of the shed and the the engine is now seized. Tried amatrol soaking for two weeks and a wrap around leverage wrench on the flywheel but it did not budge. It also needs a coil spring for the pull start (as mentioned previously), the lower unit leaks oil a little and, of course, a tune up/carb cleaning. So, other than the engine seize it is salvageable. Any thoughts how I could experience a similar thrill again with either my engine or the same model engine and use mine for spare parts? I'm wondering how my engine would run due to seizing and the rust, perhaps, from that?
Thank you for watching! This one is a 1953 and I also have two 1954s. I really like these motors. I love the way they run. I understand how life can get in the way sometimes. The springs can be replaced in the rewind starter. They are not much fun to replace, but I have done it a few times. As far as whether your motor can be saved after it seized from sitting, my first thought is that yes it can run again. I have saved a bunch of motors that were stuck. Two of them were Evinrude 15s. It just depends upon how it is stuck. If just the rings are stuck from sitting and possibly lightly rusted to the bores, it is definitely ready to be saved. I saved a '56 Johnson 15hp that was badly rusted inside. I never guessed it would run again without replacing everything and boring the cylinders. With 5 dollars invested in the motor I thought i had nothing to lose by trying. I scraped the loose rust out, soaked the cylinders with 50/50 acetone and ATF. With the cylinder head off I started tapping on the pistons with a wood dowel and a brass hammer. It eventually started moving a little. I "honed" the cylinders with 240 grit emery paper and light oil. Cleaned everything out thoroughly with brake cleaner and oiled the cylinders with 2-stroke oil. I put it back together and had about 80 psi on top and about 68-69 psi on the bottom. Not ideal, but it started up.and ran decent after a tune up. I ran it and it pushed my 14 footer at about 16mph. My dad has it now and still runs it from time to time. The other one is a 56 Evinrude I bought as a parts motor for $20. Both pistons were stuck at the rings. I soaked it for a few days in the same solution and with a little tapping on the pistons and patience and persuasion it broke free. It turned out to be a great runner and I have run it for the past two summers at our cabin. These 15s are very tolerant of poor condition. Here is the 56 Evinrude that was stuck running on the lake. th-cam.com/video/roY0rFN6EVY/w-d-xo.html
Ive got one of these badboys but have trouble getting it started often and it will rarely get up to its top speed, and even then doesnt seem to be close to what youre hitting here. Any ideas of what might be the cause?
These are excellent motors. Difficult starting and low on power could be a number of things. I would start with a spark check and a compression test. Anything over about 85psi will run decently and I have seen these motors with up to about 110-115psi of compression. If the compression checks out, I would recommend a full tune-up service. These motors start easily a d run beautifully if they're well tuned and in sound mechanical condition. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Hi! I’ve got one of these as well and I’ve done basically the full tube up to it, but there is a hole in the left side of the gear case kind of where the pinion gear is. It is seeping gear oil out of there slowly and I’m not sure why... any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Are you sure what is seeping from that hole is gear oil. That hole is a drain hole for the exhaust housing. It is normal for some unburned oily exhaust residue to drip out of this hole once the water has drained out and it hangs for a little while. If it smells like gasoline, I'm thinking you're seeing what is normal. If it is clear oil and smells like gear oil, then you probably have either a leaking drive shaft seal or shift rod O-ring. A pressure test will show where the leak is. The shift rod O-ring is usually the first seal to leak and is so often overlooked when replacing seals. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
I didn't do a barrel test video on this motor. There were many trips back to the shop with this one since it would not pressurize the fuel tank and the top cylinder had low compression due to stuck rings. The tune up series of videos I did were of my 1959 Evinrude Fastwin 18hp electric start. This motor is serviced the same way other than it has no electric starter or choke solenoid. Thanks for watching!
Champion J6C spark plugs, 24:1 fuel mix with TCW3 2-stroke outboard oil and ethanol free 90 octane gasoline, stock semi weedless 15hp prop. I think the prop dimensions are 9x11P. With the semi weedless profile, that 11 pitch is a little misleading as it gives up some bite in the water due to the design of the prop blades. Thanks for watching!
I have several stations in my area that sell ethanol-free gasoline as "rec. fuel ". It seems to always be around $4 per gallon and depends very little upon the price of regular just because they know they can get the premium price for it, but its around. Check the website www.puregas.org for stations near you that sell gasoline without ethanol. Thanks for watching!
@@RonMillbrae You are fortunate to be able to buy ethanol free gasoline for that price in your area. Regular gasoline is all blended here whether it is regular, midgrade, or premium. Only the rec fuel is ethanol free at the filling stations. They chage a big premium price for it too because they can.
@@backyardbuilt4910 Any TCW-3 rated 2-stroke outboard oil is acceptable. I prefer to use fully synthetic due to its lower smoke and its better biodegradability. I have been very happy with fully synthetic oils from Pennzoil (no longer produced), Amsoil, and Klotz. The Johnson/Evinrude XD50 is a very good synthetic blend TCW-3 oil.
@@backyardbuilt4910 The first part of the number is the model and the serial number is after the dash. If you Google the model number, it will either tell you the year or year range. If you get a year range then the year has to be determined by serial number. That takes a little more research. The 53s and 54s are very similar in appearance, especially after they fade some. If you post your model and serial numbers I can likely tell you what your motor is if it is a 50s-90s OMC.
For sure I do love the under $100 investments. Especially when they run this well. After all the service parts I'm at closer to $130 in this one, but that's pretty inexpensive for a great running outboard that's ready to run for another 50 years with regular care and maintenance. I have a 56 Fastwin I bought for parts and decided to revive it. That one I have under $65 total into and it's been my regular cabin runner for the past two years. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thanks to guys like you and myself and many others these motors will be around for years to come...They are so well built that it really in most cases doesnt take alot of money to bring them back to life and the water.Just some labor and in many cases its a labor of love & just to see them run again and on the back of a boat is very rewarding .... Do you ever get tired swinging these motors off and on boats,LOLL???Glenn P.
@@OutBoardTink62 Yes, it is very rewarding to bring these old motors back to life and get them out on the water again. My mind doesn't tire of swinging these things on and off the boat nearly as fast as my body does. I enjoy running them very much so I keep swinging them. 🙂👍
If I recall correctly from Peter Hunn's Old Outboards book, it was marketing PR. The early 50s 14hp Fastwin was notoriously slow for its rating, so after re-engineering it a bit to get a much peppier 15hp, they temporarily added "super" to the name. Then, reputation restored, they dropped "super" from the name.
I love these 50s 18s. I had several when i was a kid. She looks like she is running great.
Thank you. This is still a great running engine. Thanks for watching!
What a sweet running and idling Evinrude! Thanks for sharing with us.
Thank you. These old 15s are amazing runners. Thanks for watching!
I own two Martin outboards one is 1947 the other 1948, they both run on a 15 to I fuel mixture. Man, that's a lot of oil. I wish they were 24 to 1. About ten years ago totally restored both of the insides and out like brand new. It took me and a friend about a year to do both engines. It was a lot of work, but they look and run great!!!!! thank you for your videos!!!
Martins are nice motors. I only own one. Mine is a "60". Probably the most common of all. I have not tried to get mine running yet. I will get to it someday. My primary interest is in the 50-70s OMC motors, but I really enjoy the antiques too. I h
Just don't run my antique motors that much. I like to go boating and the classics are more in line with my boating interest. The antique motors I enjoy just because of what they are and from a historical perspective. It is fun to get out on a boat with a 80-100+ year old motor sometimes. Thanks for watching!
Mine are both 60's also. '60s were the most popular of all martin motors and because of that there are more of them around today and they are worthless
Thanks for uploading more videos. Very impressive motor (as per usual). For nearly 5 minutes my mind was out on a lake, not stuck in my house worrying about what's going on in the world. Thank you!
Thank you for watching the videos I uploaded. These are really cool motors. I have 3 of them now. Two are 54s and this one, a 53. They're pretty light for a 15 horse and they run incredibly well. They're a little bit loud, and they vibrate some, but they're strong, durable, and dependable. I'm glad I was able to get your mind on the lake and away from everything else going on in the world right now.
I bought the same motor from a guy who had it stored for 50+ years. Been going through your tune up series and I've found your videos extremely helpful. Thank you! Hope to get it in a test tank in a few weeks.
Awesome to hear that. Congratulations on your motor. These are great old motors. The best running outboards I have ever worked on. Good power and still quite light weight for 25hp. An incredible idle quality with these 20 c.i. 15hps. Enjoy your motor and Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thanks a lot. Are you okay with me sending occasional questions as I figure this all out? Perhaps you'd prefer questions just get posted on the videos.
@@yow_rich You can send me questions now and then if you like. I'll try to help out.
bbreitner at hotmail dot com
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I'm afraid I've hit some problems I can't get around. Rebuilt the ignition and carb and converted it from a dual line to a single with a pulse pump. I just can't get it to keep running. I think I'm flooding the cylinders but I also wonder if there's a spark issue. Just not sure what else to try.
Great video as per usual! I’ll let you know over on Facebook when I get my qd 13 going. Maybe could you make another video of the qd 13 running? I would really like to see that
Thank you! I'll keep watching for your QD-13. If you want to see a new video of my QD-13 I'll make sure I make one. I'll try to make it part of my next trip to the lake. I have a QD-10 I did a coil conversion on that I need to lake test also. This time I will be running the correct prop on the QD-13. Thanks for watching!
Old JohnnyRude sounds good. Can’t wait to see what power that brings to your boat!
looking good. keep your hands washed and be safe
Yessir! I always have been a little fanatical about hand washing and now even more so. You be safe as well. Thanks for watching!
This old beast is ready for its next 50yrs now....
Yes, it is ready for lots of transom time for many years to come again. These are really cool old motors. They're noisy and unrefined but they run great and get lots of looks at the launch when you tug the rope a couple times on the old worn looking thing and it fires off and runs like they do. Thanks for watching, Don!
Smooth as silk.
Thanks for watching! This one is a great runner. The 15s are probably the best running outboards I have ever worked on.
Awesome video!! We got one that came with a bit. It’s starts up great, but doesn’t have a prop. Do you know what size the prop is or where to get one? Thanks!!
Thank you! 9x10 is typically what is used on these for a general utility prop. The same prop fits later 18hp and even 25hp motors up to 1976. They are still available new. You may also watch ebay for good used ones. Here is a link to the prop from Marineengine.com.
www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0763583
Thanks for watching!
Just pick one up today 1956 15hp squirted a little gas in carburetor fired right up.
Congratulations on your new motor. I have three of the 56 15hp Fastwins. One is a really nice one and the others were junkers. I have revived one of junkers and it is a great and reliable runner. They're excellent motors and very durable. 24:1 gas / oil mixture. Check your coils to see if they are cracked. Many of the original coils are still in these motors. They may still make spark while they're dry, but they'll leave you stranded in the middle of the lake once they arc out or get moisture in them. If the original coils are still there, replace them. The replacements are still readily available and worth every penny for the peace of mind. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thanks i really enjoy working on the old outboards .Allen lake that you test your motors is that in Irish hill ?
@@jamessaumier1905 I enjoy the old outboards as well. Yes, Allen Lake is in the Irish Hills, MI. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 you interested in working on 4hp mercury i have 2 one runs but not very good the other i have parts for.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 You're not too far from me. I'm located on the western 'burbs of the D. Usually I go to the Detroit River or Lake St. Clair. I fished a pike tournament once at Coldwater Lake, and got some good action.
Mine started flooding fuel out the carburetor after installing a new needle seat and float and I can't seem to figure out why. Does anyone have any suggestion other than the normal things you would check for?
Was it flooding out before you replaced the needle and seat?
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 no it was not. I wish I hadn't discarded the old parts. Is there any way to bench test it before putting it back together since the fuel Inlet is in the bowl and the float Needle seat is in the upper half?
@@anthonyelmore8448 There is a way to bench test it. First, when you assemble the float and needle & seat set the float so it sits parallel with the body of the carburetor when held upside down. Once that is set, try to blow air through the fuel inlet with the carb upside down. If you can blow through it, there is a leak. Turn the carb right side up.and vlow through and air should easily pass through. Upside down and it should stop the air flow. Also, make sure all the bowl vent openings in the carb body are not obstructed.
If the needle were to stick on this carburetor would fuel bypass and come out the throat of the carb? I'm beginning to believe fuel is not getting in the bowl but coming out the throat of the carb. I'm missing the little spring clip that goes on the noodle. I'm thinking that might help it to pull the needle down so it can fill the bowl.
@@anthonyelmore8448 If fuel is coming out of the throat of the carb it is getting past the open needle valve. If the bowl is not filling and it is coming out the throat, the bowl vents are probably blocked. That is the only thing I have seen cause that issue. If the float is too high, then fuel can come out the carb throat, but because the bowl is over full. My first reccomendation would be to check that both bowl vents in the carburetor body are open and unobstructed.
Thanks for the video! I have this same engine 1954 15012 and that is how it ran its last time 16 years ago and then the pull start spring coil sprang. Life got it in the way.... It then went directly into the shed that same fall here in Northern Indiana and life continued to get in the way... I just pulled it out of the shed and the the engine is now seized. Tried amatrol soaking for two weeks and a wrap around leverage wrench on the flywheel but it did not budge. It also needs a coil spring for the pull start (as mentioned previously), the lower unit leaks oil a little and, of course, a tune up/carb cleaning. So, other than the engine seize it is salvageable. Any thoughts how I could experience a similar thrill again with either my engine or the same model engine and use mine for spare parts? I'm wondering how my engine would run due to seizing and the rust, perhaps, from that?
Thank you for watching! This one is a 1953 and I also have two 1954s. I really like these motors. I love the way they run. I understand how life can get in the way sometimes. The springs can be replaced in the rewind starter. They are not much fun to replace, but I have done it a few times. As far as whether your motor can be saved after it seized from sitting, my first thought is that yes it can run again. I have saved a bunch of motors that were stuck. Two of them were Evinrude 15s. It just depends upon how it is stuck. If just the rings are stuck from sitting and possibly lightly rusted to the bores, it is definitely ready to be saved. I saved a '56 Johnson 15hp that was badly rusted inside. I never guessed it would run again without replacing everything and boring the cylinders. With 5 dollars invested in the motor I thought i had nothing to lose by trying. I scraped the loose rust out, soaked the cylinders with 50/50 acetone and ATF. With the cylinder head off I started tapping on the pistons with a wood dowel and a brass hammer. It eventually started moving a little. I "honed" the cylinders with 240 grit emery paper and light oil. Cleaned everything out thoroughly with brake cleaner and oiled the cylinders with 2-stroke oil. I put it back together and had about 80 psi on top and about 68-69 psi on the bottom. Not ideal, but it started up.and ran decent after a tune up. I ran it and it pushed my 14 footer at about 16mph. My dad has it now and still runs it from time to time.
The other one is a 56 Evinrude I bought as a parts motor for $20. Both pistons were stuck at the rings. I soaked it for a few days in the same solution and with a little tapping on the pistons and patience and persuasion it broke free. It turned out to be a great runner and I have run it for the past two summers at our cabin. These 15s are very tolerant of poor condition. Here is the 56 Evinrude that was stuck running on the lake.
th-cam.com/video/roY0rFN6EVY/w-d-xo.html
Ive got one of these badboys but have trouble getting it started often and it will rarely get up to its top speed, and even then doesnt seem to be close to what youre hitting here. Any ideas of what might be the cause?
These are excellent motors. Difficult starting and low on power could be a number of things. I would start with a spark check and a compression test. Anything over about 85psi will run decently and I have seen these motors with up to about 110-115psi of compression. If the compression checks out, I would recommend a full tune-up service. These motors start easily a d run beautifully if they're well tuned and in sound mechanical condition. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Hi! I’ve got one of these as well and I’ve done basically the full tube up to it, but there is a hole in the left side of the gear case kind of where the pinion gear is. It is seeping gear oil out of there slowly and I’m not sure why... any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Are you sure what is seeping from that hole is gear oil. That hole is a drain hole for the exhaust housing. It is normal for some unburned oily exhaust residue to drip out of this hole once the water has drained out and it hangs for a little while. If it smells like gasoline, I'm thinking you're seeing what is normal. If it is clear oil and smells like gear oil, then you probably have either a leaking drive shaft seal or shift rod O-ring. A pressure test will show where the leak is. The shift rod O-ring is usually the first seal to leak and is so often overlooked when replacing seals. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Where did you get all the part !?? I just got this same motor with my boat
An total cost of rebuilding
What carb kit bib you use
Do you paint your Motors aft you've gone through them
I have painted a few of them, but only the ones that start out really ugly. Otherwise, I tend to prefer the original finish. Thanks for watching!
I couldnt find your barrel test for this lil guy! Also, was all the work done on this motor in your videos?
I didn't do a barrel test video on this motor. There were many trips back to the shop with this one since it would not pressurize the fuel tank and the top cylinder had low compression due to stuck rings. The tune up series of videos I did were of my 1959 Evinrude Fastwin 18hp electric start. This motor is serviced the same way other than it has no electric starter or choke solenoid. Thanks for watching!
Im trying to identify the hp of an old evinrude. Could you help me?
Sure. What model number is on the data tag?
HOLA , TUVIMOS UNO DE 18 HP, SALUDOS DESDE ARGENTINA.
Hello, The 18hp OMC outboards are my favorite motors. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 EXCELENTE, LOS SIGO, SALUDOS.
What spark plugs and pitch prop are you running on that motor?
Champion J6C spark plugs, 24:1 fuel mix with TCW3 2-stroke outboard oil and ethanol free 90 octane gasoline, stock semi weedless 15hp prop. I think the prop dimensions are 9x11P. With the semi weedless profile, that 11 pitch is a little misleading as it gives up some bite in the water due to the design of the prop blades. Thanks for watching!
Where do you get gas without ethanol??
I have several stations in my area that sell ethanol-free gasoline as "rec. fuel ". It seems to always be around $4 per gallon and depends very little upon the price of regular just because they know they can get the premium price for it, but its around. Check the website www.puregas.org for stations near you that sell gasoline without ethanol. Thanks for watching!
I get my gas at a Hy-Vee. I can usually get $2 per gallon or less.
@@RonMillbrae You are fortunate to be able to buy ethanol free gasoline for that price in your area. Regular gasoline is all blended here whether it is regular, midgrade, or premium. Only the rec fuel is ethanol free at the filling stations. They chage a big premium price for it too because they can.
What fuel mix do you run???
This motor uses 24:1 gasoline to oil mix. One quart of outboard oil in a 6 gallon tank. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 which outboard oil is best for this motor ?
@@backyardbuilt4910 Any TCW-3 rated 2-stroke outboard oil is acceptable. I prefer to use fully synthetic due to its lower smoke and its better biodegradability. I have been very happy with fully synthetic oils from Pennzoil (no longer produced), Amsoil, and Klotz. The Johnson/Evinrude XD50 is a very good synthetic blend TCW-3 oil.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 how do I tell what year an what hp I have ?? I have one that looks like this one
@@backyardbuilt4910 The first part of the number is the model and the serial number is after the dash. If you Google the model number, it will either tell you the year or year range. If you get a year range then the year has to be determined by serial number. That takes a little more research. The 53s and 54s are very similar in appearance, especially after they fade some. If you post your model and serial numbers I can likely tell you what your motor is if it is a 50s-90s OMC.
You got to luv the under $100 investments........Glenn P.
For sure I do love the under $100 investments. Especially when they run this well. After all the service parts I'm at closer to $130 in this one, but that's pretty inexpensive for a great running outboard that's ready to run for another 50 years with regular care and maintenance. I have a 56 Fastwin I bought for parts and decided to revive it. That one I have under $65 total into and it's been my regular cabin runner for the past two years. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thanks to guys like you and myself and many others these motors will be around for years to come...They are so well built that it really in most cases doesnt take alot of money to bring them back to life and the water.Just some labor and in many cases its a labor of love & just to see them run again and on the back of a boat is very rewarding .... Do you ever get tired swinging these motors off and on boats,LOLL???Glenn P.
@@OutBoardTink62 Yes, it is very rewarding to bring these old motors back to life and get them out on the water again. My mind doesn't tire of swinging these things on and off the boat nearly as fast as my body does. I enjoy running them very much so I keep swinging them. 🙂👍
What is the difference in fastwin and superfast twin? Also I have fastwin just like it. Check it out on my channel!
If I recall correctly from Peter Hunn's Old Outboards book, it was marketing PR. The early 50s 14hp Fastwin was notoriously slow for its rating, so after re-engineering it a bit to get a much peppier 15hp, they temporarily added "super" to the name. Then, reputation restored, they dropped "super" from the name.
Can I post my number here ?
7524-05564 is what it says on the motor
@@backyardbuilt4910 your model number indicates a 1958 7.5hp.