I'm a part-time setter at a small gym so idk what it's like at big gyms with nice walls, but our walls over the last ten or so years are fine! The set screws leave little holes and sometimes the t-nuts (what the bolts are screwed into) get knocked out the back, but generally it's fine since the holes are small. Again, not sure how it is with large holds that go on just with set screws, but for us the walls are just okay!
I think after around 15-20 years the walls start to have so many screw holes, especially accumulating in certain areas that it isn't structurally stable and they should get replaced. I've barely seen it happen though as most gyms are not that old
@@Asdfghjkl-ls1or I set in the oldest gym in my city, 30 years in existence and the walls are still usable. We got a new paint job during the pandemic but they aren't rotting away yet😉
I find the whole thing where gyms keep the actual grades that we all know are used behind the scenes a secret pretty silly. Almost every gym in my area does the same. I'm cool with setting circuits based on tape colors or chilli peppers or whatever, and I definitely think those circuits should have overlap, but there is just no reason not to make it known what grade range the circuits correspond to.
I feel like most people who only gym climb have a very distorted view of v grades though. You can climb a route with whatever scale your gym uses and think to yourself yeah that feels like a v6 to me. Plus the custom scale allows for a wider range of easy climbs. V0s outdoor encompass a much wider range than v0s typically in a gym which are just ladder mega jug routes. I think if gyms used accurate grading at the low end beginners would be super frustrated at their lack of v grade improvement
What does it complicate? The boulder challenges you or jt doesnt, it having a V grade doesnt change anything. If you are a semi experienced boulderer just pick the middle grade and then work up until you feel challenged. There is 0 consistency between gyms anyways, in some i flash V9, then in others i get shut down on V6s.
We're giving away €1000 worth of motif climbing holds! Go to our instagram to find out how to win.
This might be a stupid question, but does the wall get all messed up over years of drilling into it? How often would you need to replace the wood?
I'm a part-time setter at a small gym so idk what it's like at big gyms with nice walls, but our walls over the last ten or so years are fine! The set screws leave little holes and sometimes the t-nuts (what the bolts are screwed into) get knocked out the back, but generally it's fine since the holes are small. Again, not sure how it is with large holds that go on just with set screws, but for us the walls are just okay!
I think after around 15-20 years the walls start to have so many screw holes, especially accumulating in certain areas that it isn't structurally stable and they should get replaced. I've barely seen it happen though as most gyms are not that old
lol you’ve never been to my local gyms!!!
@@Asdfghjkl-ls1or I set in the oldest gym in my city, 30 years in existence and the walls are still usable. We got a new paint job during the pandemic but they aren't rotting away yet😉
This set was fabulous. Probably my favourite on that section of wall that I've tried
Do you ever fall off your ladder? Does setting make you hungry? How big is a boulder? Why is bouldering?
At any point in time, how many of the holds that you own at Hang are actually on the wall?
On a personal note, what kind of pants does Joe wear? Fit and Color are banging ?
Guys I really want to set with you some awesome blocs. I’m a long term professional routsetter so I think this could work
Always enjoy a setting video.
great video concept - pls do more :)
Very informative! Thanks Bobats
maybe you should make a guide. setting 101
Still no idea of how to set a boulder route but I enjoyed watching nevertheless 😅
hey guys
You should come to boulder brighton for a video sometime !
I find the whole thing where gyms keep the actual grades that we all know are used behind the scenes a secret pretty silly. Almost every gym in my area does the same. I'm cool with setting circuits based on tape colors or chilli peppers or whatever, and I definitely think those circuits should have overlap, but there is just no reason not to make it known what grade range the circuits correspond to.
I feel like most people who only gym climb have a very distorted view of v grades though. You can climb a route with whatever scale your gym uses and think to yourself yeah that feels like a v6 to me. Plus the custom scale allows for a wider range of easy climbs. V0s outdoor encompass a much wider range than v0s typically in a gym which are just ladder mega jug routes. I think if gyms used accurate grading at the low end beginners would be super frustrated at their lack of v grade improvement
222K lets go bobats
Thumbnail of Jake pointing out his new haircut is hilarious
Really want to tag my wall on instagram…. But that would be hang… so not sure they can win it?
Something else
Just use the v grade another system is unnecessary and just complicates it more. Do you at least have a v grade range like one chilli is v0 to V2?
ah its good fun/sets it apart from other gyms
What does it complicate? The boulder challenges you or jt doesnt, it having a V grade doesnt change anything. If you are a semi experienced boulderer just pick the middle grade and then work up until you feel challenged. There is 0 consistency between gyms anyways, in some i flash V9, then in others i get shut down on V6s.