Felt like we should have been shown: Opening the valve hole in the gorilla tape, SHAKING the Stan's to disperse the particles before filling, and shaking technique after Stan's and air in tire. Newbies need to see ALL steps.
I've watched a lot of videos on this. This is the first one I've seen that actualy mentions the amount of sealent to use, bonus that you have the exact tyre I have. This is proof that it pays to watch multiple videos, no matter how "simple" the project may be.
I never used to save the black valve caps, but this winter the road salt really messed up the valve core on a few of our fat bikes. Got to the point where you couldn't undo the valve without needle nose pliers. Besides that, great video, running my Umas with a single strip of 3" Gorilla tape as well.
It worked! Thanks for the air gun tip and especially the one side bead seal, thay allowed the low side to pop in place when I tapped the wheel down while blowing lots of air in.
Really good video. I set mine up the same way with one exception: I used Orange Seal tape and sealant. The Orange Seal tape is not porous like Gorilla Tape so it doesn't absorb the sealant. You, therefore, don't need as much sealant. The Orange Seal sealant, in my opinion works better than Stan's and also doesn't cause all the rolling boogers inside the tire that Stan's eventually does.
thank you to Borealis bikes for pointing me to this video, and thank you so much Golden BIke Shop - I've been wanting to go tubeless with my fatties for years. I followed these directions for Bud & Lou on Clown Shoes - at first I didn't believe they were going to hold. Now, after more than 20 hours I am more confident than I was with Surly tubes riding in the wilds on all kinds of snowy and icy terrain - I'm running 4 - 4.5 psi in the rear and 4 - 3.5 psi in front (checking with both digital and analog deci-psi gauges at temps ranging from 15-30°F. This really is the "right" way, imho - no spit tubes, no buildup the rim inside with layers of tape or foam. Two comments: 1. I don't know if at 5500 ft elevation peeps at Golden had this problem, but letting the air out of tube after taping rim, preparing to remove tube, here at 500 ft above sea level, atmospheric pressure can push the tire in and off both beads as the air in the tube goes out - I solved this by letting the air out very slowly and not all the way, stopping it at the point where tire levers allowed me to remove one bead and pull the tube out - I still wasn't sure that the other bead was still on tightly enough until I put the 8 oz of Stan's in and aired it up, and one time for one of the rims, I had to start over, pouring the Stan's solution out of the tire into a bucket, putting the tube back in, etc - but it worked. 2. For the first ride I spent about 2 hours on hard-packed snow including a lot of frozen bootprints (potholes) riding with 8 psi to make sure the bead would be seated seated as much as possible. The 2nd ride I went down to 5 psi, anxious and certain I'd burp or lose the bead on very rough trail, but I was sooooooo happily wrong. The past 17+ hours I've been running sub-5 psi, and don't even think about it anymore! All the feel of decreased rolling resistance is amplified considerably with the enormous surface area fatties have, and each knob is able to connect with the infinitely changing terrain immediately. Yahoo! Oh and thanks also to Borealis for Yampa - you've made Winter incredibly fun - hopping off ridge trails into the infinite, untracked, off-piste, sweetly-crusted glades, carving turns in the steeps around trees: huge grin on my face hour after hour!
I followed this procedure on Specialized Fatboy rims with GC tires(wire)- except instead of the injector, I broke the bead and used a tire iron to open a spot for a funnel. Poured in 8oz each tire of Stans. (Goes VERY easy). I use nitrogen from a bottle at 100psi on the regulator to set the bead which was NO PROBLEM. I use nitrogen in all of my tires. I feel it is far superior for tire inflation than compressed air for a few reasons. 1- It is definitely CLEANER and DRYER than compressed air, 2- even though regular air is mainly nitrogen, pure nitrogen permeates rubber's structure less- resulting in less pressure leakage. 3- I believe it helps preserve and keep the Stans from oxidizing and hardening into a chunky ball in your tire. I rode hard the very next day at like 8-10 psi, and aired down on my descent. No issues to speak of. Holding tight and solid. I highly recommend this method, as well as going tubeless in general. I will admit I was nervous about this working pre install. Feel like a pro now!
thetaddfab nitro you put in also make the bike lighter too and go more mileage, Why you put to much Stanz in thee. the instruction on other youtube video and sell from the company said put in 2 oz. Maybe for FAT BIKE will put in 4 oz or 6 I don't know can't clarify on that yet.
I know! What is with all the valve cap hate that I have seen/heard over the years? I have metal (aluminum) ones on all my bikes from my fat-bike to my dual-sport to my time trial bike. I wouldn't ride without them. Why risk something hitting the screw end, knocking it loose or damaging it. I liked this video up until that point, and for me that was a deal breaker.
I'm not a hater. To each their own. I have bee riding Presta valves for 20 years without caps and never had an issue. I do see a benefit for storage and other uses.
Nice video, your shop is nice too. I've rented from these guys and they were great to work with. I would use the nice hose from injector with screw on for my air compressor filler. I would also mention the final PSI as people who don't have some atv or other experience may not be aware how low it should/can be.
Just a FYI, the fastest way to set your bead is to install your valve and tire, wrap a ratchet strap around the circumference, tighten until both sides meet the rim, and give it some air. At less than 5psi the bead will seat both sides with ease. Remove the strap and inflate to your target.
Two things: Use some sand paper or steel wool to rough up the exposed metal. It will help the tape adhere to the wheel better. If you have to remove the tire and you break the bead it might roll the tape if you don't have good adhesion. 2 if you're not to worried about weight I found that two layers of tape on my daryls help to air the tire easier and add just enough thickness to act like a bead lock and really help prevent burping air on rough terrain.
Nice vid, thanks for sharing.... Only thing I would have added vas to possibly lube the unseated rim bead so the tyre slips up easier, having said that it worked just fine..
+Maido Mesipuu The last part was nothing but stupid, "Most importantly , take the valve cap and toss it in the garbage." And the camera auto focusing was annoying.
You can run the tape to the edge of the rim to build up the shoulder if your tires aren't tight fitting. 6 oz is plenty- there was a ridiculous amount of Stan"s in the tire when I used 8 oz. on a bud/lou clown shoe set up. The gravity assist in the final inflation is key.
Well I've always done it a different way, I've actually put the whole tire on with the core valve already installed in the rim and when I put the sealant in I really didn't make too much of a mess.
I was surprised to see just one wrap of tape in the center. I was under the impression that one wanted the tape to wrap up the sidewall of the beak hook. Clearly, I may be wrong because with the exact same wheel and tire, my setup would streak sealant from the bead and eventually go flat. Is the bead interface tight enough on a darryl/dillinger to prevent burping at low pressure?
How long did you wait to have the bead set while inflated with the tube? I can't seem to remove the tube without both beads coming unset. Are all rims compatible with this method?
+Layne Benjamin when checking air pressure make sure valve is at the 12 o'clock position. The sealant will be at the 6 o'clock position and will not interfere with checking pressure.
Two questions: 1. Will adding studs to the dillingers cause a problem with this set up? 2. Does the gorilla tape run up the vertical wall of the rim (is it in between the tire and the rim?)
Can you add Nitrogen to these tires? I use it on my car and truck "Nitrogen" This Air Fluctuation due to outside temperatures. Making a Fat Bike Tubeless and adding Nitrogen to the tire sounds like a nice combination. What do you think? Thanks for sharing
Im aware when bikes were first invented the tires had no air and seeing a lot of the tubeless ways via youtube makes me question the first use of putting AIR in tire was to make the riding experience at the pinnacle of how it rides of riding on air over the old methods along with the new ones.?. I mean, using Air in tires is the best feeling of being a Mercedes like suspension?( if you ever rode a M you know what I mean.) I find all these cool tubeless ways but overall the need to ride the smoothest way is still important, right?
helpful vid - thanks for posting. But, I gotta disagree on tossing the valve cap at the end. I had the upper of a valve sheer off from a pebble or stick hitting it on a descent and I didn't have a valve cap on. Had I had one on, that may not have happened. So, I figured from then on, why not ride with them on. It's not like it's adding weight or anything.
I had the same disagreement. The typical valve caps that come with most inner-tubes serves to keep dust, mud or dirt out of the valve. But those caps only protect the top of the valve casing. Check out my Ziggyboy Bullet valve stem covers. I invented the first valve cap/cover that completely covers the entire valve stem from top to bottom where it meets the rim/wheel. It's the only valve cap in the world that protects, beautifies and covers all of the valve stem, not just the top. I never did like the unsightliness of valve stems, that's why I invented the Ziggyboy Bullet Z-VSC. No one else ever figured out a way to make a valve stem cap cover the valve stem until now. Check out "ZiggyboyBullet.com" to see how it works. You can also find them on e-Bay, just type "Ziggyboy" in the search box. Take your wheels to the extreme!
Presta valve caps serve an important purpose with tubes. While the tube is folded up and in a box the cap keeps the tip from damaging the tube. Once the tube is installed the cap no longer serves a purpose.
But you didn't have it on, so you don't really know. The only thing we can say for CERTAIN is that stem caps keep dust/dirt off. So it only matters if you sling through mud or salt, the valve gets stuck AND you fail to wipe the valve stem off prior to untwisting. That's a slippery slope.
I don't buy it. Schrader valve cores are exposed to the elements without a cap but once a presta valve it's tightened it seems protected to me. No harm in running them but I rather not.
Please Give me Idea: Which co2 good and afforable: 12g / 16g, which Tool for co2 pum last long? I saw most are plastic, how many tires can each 12g pump? After pump one tire, how long can this be hold before the tool /cartridge holder leak itself slowly ? Fat bike 26 inches, for example or moutain bike regular tires, I am new to bike. Fat bike is 30 psi. Your Tips are greatly appreciated
I been running tubeless tires on my moutain bikes since 2005. I have only once had to use a tube once and that was a sidewall tear riding in Utah in 2006. The tire still sealed but would not hold air past 30psi and I was riding near cliffs so I did not chance it. Tubeless is the way to go. I need to demo a fat bike .I wonder what I'm missing?
It's all about "weight." I really don't get all the concern with making the fat tire bikes lighter. This type of bike isn't a speed bike, it's an all terrain bike, the new young cousin of the mountain bike. My Mongoose Beast and Dolomite weigh just a little over fifty pounds, but the extra weight makes a big difference when you're in snow, sand, loose dirt, etc. Geez! If you're worried about weight, get a road bike with skinny tires.
Good vid ...thanks. It looks like going tubeless adds about four ounces of weight to a fatbike wheel (tubes weigh about four ounces and it takes 8 ounces of tire sealant per wheel)....I'm new to fatbikes so could you tell me what the advantages are to going tubeless?
+alex “bikeman” o'neal Well, going tubeless is very helpful in many situations. If you are like me and you ride a lot in the thorns and you get punctured tubes weekly, then you should go tubeless. I have seen some take nails and put it into their tubeless tire and it stayed inflated. Also, the 8 ounces is talking about how many fluid ounces of sealant to add, not 8 ounces of weight. Roughly, one tube is equal to 16oz of sealant, so going tubeless saves four ounces. Going tubeless is not really anymore maintenance than tubes either, so that is another bonus.
That's 8 fluid ounces which is 236 milliliters. 236 ml of water weighs 15 ounces mass. Depending on the density of the sealant compared to water, the weight could be higher or lower. I suspect the sealant is denser than water.
Tubeless gives you better traction and allows you to run lower pressures without the risk of pinching the tube between the tire and the rim in bumpy terrain (which would cause a flat). People run these fat bikes as low as 2PSI in the winter to give them good traction in the snow and this wouldn't be very safe if you were running tubes.
***** I wieghed the tube it was 16 oz. The stans sauce and tape weighed 10 oz. So a little bit of weight savings. I like running Stans because as long as you keep putting sauce in there every few months it really prevents flats. Not sure how its gonna work on my new fat bike,... I will find out in the coming months.
I don't understand what the point of placing the tube back in the tire is only to remove it once more after partially inflating it... Can anyone explain?
So how low a PSI do you feel you can run like this? I have not tested this but how heavy are those fat tubes and is this worth risking the flat? I run tubless on my XC bike and just looking into fat bikes now so I'm very new at this. Thank you for the video!
Just watch a guy use a thin hvac 100mm width tape. Then a tub less tape. He claims he’s had zero flats from customers and only used 4oz. Not saying it’s better but what do you think?
Whatever, I'm a purist, I don't want a bunch of tape and goo in my Mongoose Beast or Dolomite tires. The issue of weight is for a bike like the new Mongoose Argus with an Aluminum alloy frame. I've got my eye on that one, but I still find myself not wanting to do without the full suspension fat tire mountain bikes that they are now coming up with. More money, but more bang.
+John Sprague If its the internal part (the core) that has broken you can probably remove that and replace with one from an old tube. I've done that and it works. Otherwise you'll need to buy some new valve stems
One thing not shown on this video is the installation of the valve. Do you just cut a little hole in the guerrilla tape and push the valve through and tighten?
Yes, you can use multiple tools to punch that hole - a #2 Phillips screwdriver, cut a small X with a razor blade, jam the valve through the tape allowing the valve itself to form the hole, or a sharp dental pick, just be sure to keep the hole small as to not create a place for air to leak through.
That's, "grungy looking valves," rather. But some valve caps may look grungy, too. That's OK for me, I like the "rat-rod" look as well as the "flashy, cosmetically perfect" look.
Why is the Gorilla tape required over the rim strip? I have HED wheels with rim strips that includes an instruction pamphlet that says to use Gorilla tape. However, a HED produced youtube instructional video on how to convert to tubeless sets it up without the Gorilla tape.
+tanwera Cuz of the rim cutouts. I'm thinking if the stock rim strip is too flimsy run a narrower run of Gorilla tape just to reinforce the stock strip, then do the full with sealingtape run.
+Joseph Brody ........... For the life of me I can't even fathom why ANYONE on Earth would put music in a tutorial. He doesn't have a mike near his mouth and the music is louder than his voice. LOL. GOD WHAT THE FUCK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've watched a few "how to: tubeless fat" videos tonight. My question is this... In the world of standard size mtn bike wheels, there are specific "tubeless ready" wheels and tires. I don't believe this tech exists for our fatties, so am I to understand that, up to this point, everyone is converting normal, everyday (tubeless ready) wheels and tires using this method?
Well here in the Texas at the dollar tree store where I live in they have all tipes of mountain bike tubes for a dollar I went and I bought 10 tubes for a dollar each
I have been riding tubeless for 5 years on different bikes. I have NEVER had a flat. My fat bike is for desert riding, not snow. I have ridden over bushes filled with goat-heads, cactus, and broken glass on pavement. I have little doubt that I have had hundreds of punctures, but running tubeless with Stans, I have never noticed. This is the way.
+Aly Awad You would then have super-sticky adhesive bubbles protruding out of the inside of your wheels, ready to pick up all the dirt and grime that wheels collect.
Fat bike rims have massive holes for weight reduction, which is the black you can see in the rim between the spokes. While it might theoretically be possible, you will have the sticky side of the tape excised to both Dirt and the elements, which might cause it to start peeling back from the rim, resulting in a flat.
Thinking about getting a fatty but I have some questions, first, why go tubeless? Not really sure I understand this concept. i can see from a money standpoint where you wouldn't have to by tubes or run the risk of never being able to find a tube. other than that, i just don't get it. Not knocking it, just not understanding it.
No one's mentioned this one for some reason --- with tubeless, you gets flats way less often. When there's a puncture, the sealant usually seeps through it and fixes itself, and this can happen with holes up to 1/4" I believe. Plus, you don't get pinch flats. Then if by some chance you do get a flat, you can fix it just as you would a tire with tubes --- all tubeless rims are backwards-compatible. Just carry around an extra tube in your pack and slip it in. So: Pros - flats become very infrequent, less weight, no money spent on tubes, ability to run lower air pressure for more comfort (because no pinch flats) Cons - money spent on sealant (~$2 per _empty_ tire), impossible to fix on the trail (with a hand pump) (but you can always revert to tubes)
It's already tubeless, So Your just adding a layer of tape to the rim strip ? Marine Sealant Works good too, on the Nipples if you have a tube type tire. A little dab on the nipples and you're done.
Why not use 10 or 20 mil PVC tape? It should keep air from leaking and you won't need to use as much sealant or just a dot on each nipple on regular or double walled rims?? Thanks Mike
+Mike B i think the sealant is meant for the tire moreso then the rim tape. the rubber tire is more porous then the gaff tape. plus the sealant adds protection in the event that you have a pinch or puncture.
i dont get it.. whats wrong with having tubes.. if your out riding its so much easier to fix a flat if you need to.. i dont see any real advantage other than a lil bit of weight for the tube..
It really does prevent most punctures. I have had some pretty large objects puncture my tire and have still been able to just pull them out and let the sealant seal the hole. Honestly anything bigger and the tire would have been done for even with a tube. It's a lot easer to shake a tire around and ad whatever little air was lost than it is to remove the wheel, pull off the tire and replace the tube...... in the snow. If you only ride your fatbike in snow and don't get punctures ever than it may not be worth it but if you ride outside of winter it really is nice. On a normal bike it doesn't shed much weight but on a midfat and fat bike I have found that most tubeless setups shed 2-3lbs and it makes a noticeable difference in acceleration.
The type of riding definitely makes a difference. Even though there is a benefit in most applications that benefit is bigger in some than it is in others. In fat bikes, trail, and XC bikes that have a pretty thin carcass, need to run low pressures and encounter a lot of different terrain tubeless is awesome. On a downhill or DJ bike the tires are so thick and pressures so high that going to a tubeless set up just isn't worth the extra effort especially if you don't already have tubeless wheels and tires.
"Go back a few steps"? You do realize with that "goo" in there that "going back a few steps" is fraught with problems most novices are going to find so frustrating they are going to wonder why the hell they tried to do it themselves in the first place, right? Must be done right the first time, I reckon.
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Why try to save a little weight, its a FAT bike ... ??? and its a million times easier to fix a flat with an extra inner tube when stuck in the woods... i dont get it apart for having to go to a bike shop to get it fixed...
I agree and you can buy some pretty light weight tubes.. i was looking into tubeless but the weight lost from removing a tube just isnt enough reason for me to switch over. Like you said i rather just carry a spare tube.
This gotta be the most stupid thing to do ever. The tire sealant and the tape must weigh more than the tube itself. And when (not if) you get a flat, it's going to be a total mess to deal with.
I understand reluctance to change with reason. I also understand reason to change. This isn't necessarily the case. A fat tube generally weighs 300-400 grams each. 8 ounces is about half that. Gorilla tape about another 50grams. 80% of flats are pinch flats. Tubes get pinch flats. So that leaves only 20% of your already low chances of a flatting when riding tubeless. In exchange for your setup work of going tubeless, here's what you actually get: 1) Less flats becasue pinch flats don't occur 2) Less rolling resistance due to no friction between tube and tire and tube and rim. 3) Between 300-700 grams less weight where it matters most, the tires. 4) More supple feel at the tires due to less physical barriers 5) More grip 6) Less energy spent riding the thing 7) More speed 8) Cheapest way to reduce weight Then, IF you flat, you can put in a tube! If you don't get it or need it, you won't do it.
it would be an advantage even if it made it a pound heavier... ever see a tire that big go flat? it'll brake the wheel by rubbing against the frame... with sealant, your odds are good that you'll only need a few pumps of air from a cheap bike frame pump...
Dude, if you take a weedwacker to it, then maybe possibly it might. That's terrible advice...frame pumps will take forever!! co2 or compressor is ideal, floor pump is decent plan b.
Felt like we should have been shown: Opening the valve hole in the gorilla tape, SHAKING the Stan's to disperse the particles before filling, and shaking technique after Stan's and air in tire. Newbies need to see ALL steps.
Or just use Orange Seal...it's a better product anyway.
Agree cuz i was like ok next scene the valve was back in the tire like wtf how? This is suppose to be like a tutorial lol
@@HNXMedia Not available in many countries.
Awesome tutorial, hideous music.
Thanks for sharing 👍
the valve dust cover really helps to keep out mud from making the valve cease up and render the valve useless
I rather stick to buy tubes this seems real messy and I've been bike riding for years
I've watched a lot of videos on this. This is the first one I've seen that actualy mentions the amount of sealent to use, bonus that you have the exact tyre I have. This is proof that it pays to watch multiple videos, no matter how "simple" the project may be.
I never used to save the black valve caps, but this winter the road salt really messed up the valve core on a few of our fat bikes. Got to the point where you couldn't undo the valve without needle nose pliers.
Besides that, great video, running my Umas with a single strip of 3" Gorilla tape as well.
It worked! Thanks for the air gun tip and especially the one side bead seal, thay allowed the low side to pop in place when I tapped the wheel down while blowing lots of air in.
Really good video. I set mine up the same way with one exception: I used Orange Seal tape and sealant. The Orange Seal tape is not porous like Gorilla Tape so it doesn't absorb the sealant. You, therefore, don't need as much sealant. The Orange Seal sealant, in my opinion works better than Stan's and also doesn't cause all the rolling boogers inside the tire that Stan's eventually does.
thank you to Borealis bikes for pointing me to this video, and thank you so much Golden BIke Shop - I've been wanting to go tubeless with my fatties for years. I followed these directions for Bud & Lou on Clown Shoes - at first I didn't believe they were going to hold. Now, after more than 20 hours I am more confident than I was with Surly tubes riding in the wilds on all kinds of snowy and icy terrain - I'm running 4 - 4.5 psi in the rear and 4 - 3.5 psi in front (checking with both digital and analog deci-psi gauges at temps ranging from 15-30°F. This really is the "right" way, imho - no spit tubes, no buildup the rim inside with layers of tape or foam.
Two comments:
1. I don't know if at 5500 ft elevation peeps at Golden had this problem, but letting the air out of tube after taping rim, preparing to remove tube, here at 500 ft above sea level, atmospheric pressure can push the tire in and off both beads as the air in the tube goes out - I solved this by letting the air out very slowly and not all the way, stopping it at the point where tire levers allowed me to remove one bead and pull the tube out - I still wasn't sure that the other bead was still on tightly enough until I put the 8 oz of Stan's in and aired it up, and one time for one of the rims, I had to start over, pouring the Stan's solution out of the tire into a bucket, putting the tube back in, etc - but it worked.
2. For the first ride I spent about 2 hours on hard-packed snow including a lot of frozen bootprints (potholes) riding with 8 psi to make sure the bead would be seated seated as much as possible. The 2nd ride I went down to 5 psi, anxious and certain I'd burp or lose the bead on very rough trail, but I was sooooooo happily wrong. The past 17+ hours I've been running sub-5 psi, and don't even think about it anymore! All the feel of decreased rolling resistance is amplified considerably with the enormous surface area fatties have, and each knob is able to connect with the infinitely changing terrain immediately. Yahoo!
Oh and thanks also to Borealis for Yampa - you've made Winter incredibly fun - hopping off ridge trails into the infinite, untracked, off-piste, sweetly-crusted glades, carving turns in the steeps around trees: huge grin on my face hour after hour!
I followed this procedure on Specialized Fatboy rims with GC tires(wire)- except instead of the injector, I broke the bead and used a tire iron to open a spot for a funnel. Poured in 8oz each tire of Stans. (Goes VERY easy). I use nitrogen from a bottle at 100psi on the regulator to set the bead which was NO PROBLEM.
I use nitrogen in all of my tires. I feel it is far superior for tire inflation than compressed air for a few reasons. 1- It is definitely CLEANER and DRYER than compressed air, 2- even though regular air is mainly nitrogen, pure nitrogen permeates rubber's structure less- resulting in less pressure leakage. 3- I believe it helps preserve and keep the Stans from oxidizing and hardening into a chunky ball in your tire.
I rode hard the very next day at like 8-10 psi, and aired down on my descent. No issues to speak of. Holding tight and solid.
I highly recommend this method, as well as going tubeless in general. I will admit I was nervous about this working pre install.
Feel like a pro now!
thetaddfab Will CO2 cartridges work as well?
thetaddfab nitro you put in also make the bike lighter too and go more mileage,
Why you put to much Stanz in thee. the instruction on other youtube video and sell from the company said put in 2 oz. Maybe for FAT BIKE will put in 4 oz or 6 I don't know can't clarify on that yet.
The valve cap isn't exactly useless, it keeps dirt and debris out of the valve
+Richard Hiller & they are handy on the spare tube that you still need to carry
I know! What is with all the valve cap hate that I have seen/heard over the years? I have metal (aluminum) ones on all my bikes from my fat-bike to my dual-sport to my time trial bike. I wouldn't ride without them. Why risk something hitting the screw end, knocking it loose or damaging it. I liked this video up until that point, and for me that was a deal breaker.
HNX Media yeah even small rocks or twigs could jack up a valve core
D Chester Thank all that is holy that I am not the only one who feels this way. We are part of a dying breed, my friend.
I'm not a hater. To each their own. I have bee riding Presta valves for 20 years without caps and never had an issue. I do see a benefit for storage and other uses.
Great music, great instruction
Took me a few times to get tube out and keep one side seated but in finally worked!
This video was the most useful video for converting fat bikes!! awesome! Thanks a lot
Nice video, your shop is nice too. I've rented from these guys and they were great to work with.
I would use the nice hose from injector with screw on for my air compressor filler. I would also mention the final PSI as people who don't have some atv or other experience may not be aware how low it should/can be.
I love the soundtrack... and the info. Thx
Just a FYI, the fastest way to set your bead is to install your valve and tire, wrap a ratchet strap around the circumference, tighten until both sides meet the rim, and give it some air. At less than 5psi the bead will seat both sides with ease. Remove the strap and inflate to your target.
I'd just like to add that it works for tubules motorcycle tires was well.
FYI, a 26" inner tube works as a strap around tire - this method can be helpful, if you cannot get it set at first try
Two things: Use some sand paper or steel wool to rough up the exposed metal. It will help the tape adhere to the wheel better. If you have to remove the tire and you break the bead it might roll the tape if you don't have good adhesion. 2 if you're not to worried about weight I found that two layers of tape on my daryls help to air the tire easier and add just enough thickness to act like a bead lock and really help prevent burping air on rough terrain.
It really helps to have the wheel in a truing stand for taping.
One of those violins was a bit out of tune, I think.
Christophe L lol
Nice vid, thanks for sharing....
Only thing I would have added vas to possibly lube the unseated rim bead so the tyre slips up easier, having said that it worked just fine..
I like the last part, with plastic valve cap :D
+Maido Mesipuu The last part was nothing but stupid, "Most importantly , take the valve cap and toss it in the garbage." And the camera auto focusing was annoying.
You can run the tape to the edge of the rim to build up the shoulder if your tires aren't tight fitting. 6 oz is plenty- there was a ridiculous amount of Stan"s in the tire when I used 8 oz. on a bud/lou clown shoe set up. The gravity assist in the final inflation is key.
Great vidéo, bravo. Just a question did your wheels was à tubeless ready or not ?
Thanks 👍👋🚴♂️
the back ground music could be a little lower, makes it hard to hear the speaker.
Just be lucky it wasn't me making the video I would have played some death metal
Well I've always done it a different way, I've actually put the whole tire on with the core valve already installed in the rim and when I put the sealant in I really didn't make too much of a mess.
Looked easy enough, only I couldn't get the tire to seat. I put the wheel sideways as you did and applied air from a compressor.
I was surprised to see just one wrap of tape in the center. I was under the impression that one wanted the tape to wrap up the sidewall of the beak hook. Clearly, I may be wrong because with the exact same wheel and tire, my setup would streak sealant from the bead and eventually go flat. Is the bead interface tight enough on a darryl/dillinger to prevent burping at low pressure?
How long did you wait to have the bead set while inflated with the tube? I can't seem to remove the tube without both beads coming unset. Are all rims compatible with this method?
Does this work with any fat bike tire and rim? If not, what kind or tires and rims are required?
how does the sealant affect the valve core? does it make it an issue when trying tune tire pressure?
+Layne Benjamin when checking air pressure make sure valve is at the 12 o'clock position. The sealant will be at the 6 o'clock position and will not interfere with checking pressure.
Hi,
How many flats since you converted?
Thanks
Two questions: 1. Will adding studs to the dillingers cause a problem with this set up?
2. Does the gorilla tape run up the vertical wall of the rim (is it in between the tire and the rim?)
Thanks for the tuto. When you add the sealant, the tire is deflate but the beads are locked in place from the previous inflation?
Yes
Very nice how-to and resourceful with gorilla tape
Can you add Nitrogen to these tires? I use it on my car and truck "Nitrogen" This Air Fluctuation due to outside temperatures. Making a Fat Bike Tubeless and adding Nitrogen to the tire sounds like a nice combination. What do you think?
Thanks for sharing
Im aware when bikes were first invented the tires had no air and seeing a lot of the tubeless ways via youtube makes me question the first use of putting AIR in tire was to make the riding experience at the pinnacle of how it rides of riding on air over the old methods along with the new ones.?. I mean, using Air in tires is the best feeling of being a Mercedes like suspension?( if you ever rode a M you know what I mean.) I find all these cool tubeless ways but overall the need to ride the smoothest way is still important, right?
helpful vid - thanks for posting. But, I gotta disagree on tossing the valve cap at the end. I had the upper of a valve sheer off from a pebble or stick hitting it on a descent and I didn't have a valve cap on. Had I had one on, that may not have happened. So, I figured from then on, why not ride with them on. It's not like it's adding weight or anything.
I had the same disagreement. The typical valve caps that come with most inner-tubes serves to keep dust, mud or dirt out of the valve. But those caps only protect the top of the valve casing. Check out my Ziggyboy Bullet valve stem covers. I invented the first valve cap/cover that completely covers the entire valve stem from top to bottom where it meets the rim/wheel. It's the only valve cap in the world that protects, beautifies and covers all of the valve stem, not just the top. I never did like the unsightliness of valve stems, that's why I invented the Ziggyboy Bullet Z-VSC. No one else ever figured out a way to make a valve stem cap cover the valve stem until now. Check out "ZiggyboyBullet.com" to see how it works. You can also find them on e-Bay, just type "Ziggyboy" in the search box. Take your wheels to the extreme!
Presta valve caps serve an important purpose with tubes. While the tube is folded up and in a box the cap keeps the tip from damaging the tube. Once the tube is installed the cap no longer serves a purpose.
But you didn't have it on, so you don't really know. The only thing we can say for CERTAIN is that stem caps keep dust/dirt off. So it only matters if you sling through mud or salt, the valve gets stuck AND you fail to wipe the valve stem off prior to untwisting. That's a slippery slope.
Ben Kloos
Depending if it is packaged correctly or not.
I don't buy it. Schrader valve cores are exposed to the elements without a cap but once a presta valve it's tightened it seems protected to me. No harm in running them but I rather not.
Worked great cheers
Please Give me Idea: Which co2 good and afforable: 12g / 16g, which Tool for co2 pum last long? I saw most are plastic, how many tires can each 12g pump? After pump one tire, how long can this be hold before the tool /cartridge holder leak itself slowly ? Fat bike 26 inches, for example or moutain bike regular tires, I am new to bike. Fat bike is 30 psi. Your Tips are greatly appreciated
I been running tubeless tires on my moutain bikes since 2005. I have only once had to use a tube once and that was a sidewall tear riding in Utah in 2006. The tire still sealed but would not hold air past 30psi and I was riding near cliffs so I did not chance it.
Tubeless is the way to go.
I need to demo a fat bike .I wonder what I'm missing?
Noticed Stan's was bubbling out of the valve stem. Doesn't that gum them up?
thank you very well done
I just bought my first fat bike so I'm new to this. So can you explain the advantage to doing this vs. sticking with a tube?
It's all about "weight." I really don't get all the concern with making the fat tire bikes lighter. This type of bike isn't a speed bike, it's an all terrain bike, the new young cousin of the mountain bike. My Mongoose Beast and Dolomite weigh just a little over fifty pounds, but the extra weight makes a big difference when you're in snow, sand, loose dirt, etc. Geez! If you're worried about weight, get a road bike with skinny tires.
Gopher Cheese
True, yes, that is one particular advantage.
The valve core wasn't sealed properly when it was installed, you can see the sealant bubbling out of it in the video.
+macspud28 seen that as well. I'm sure he'll fix that
Might not the sealant now seal the valve stem to the outer valve housing and render the valve impassable to air?
@@thomasbrooklyn1820 No, by inflating the wheel it effectively pushes the sealant back out of the way. GTG!
Any advice on using this method with Marge Lite rims? I am having a lot of difficulty getting tires (120tpi Nates) set up tubeless on these rims.
Now what happens if you want to go back to a regular tube does the liquid stuff that you put in in come out just fine or is the rim and tire done
It’s dried and messy af
Good vid ...thanks. It looks like going tubeless adds about four ounces of weight to a fatbike wheel (tubes weigh about four ounces and it takes 8 ounces of tire sealant per wheel)....I'm new to fatbikes so could you tell me what the advantages are to going tubeless?
+alex “bikeman” o'neal Well, going tubeless is very helpful in many situations. If you are like me and you ride a lot in the thorns and you get punctured tubes weekly, then you should go tubeless. I have seen some take nails and put it into their tubeless tire and it stayed inflated. Also, the 8 ounces is talking about how many fluid ounces of sealant to add, not 8 ounces of weight. Roughly, one tube is equal to 16oz of sealant, so going tubeless saves four ounces. Going tubeless is not really anymore maintenance than tubes either, so that is another bonus.
Makes sense (especially if you tend to get a lot of punctures)...thanks for the info Dan...
That's 8 fluid ounces which is 236 milliliters. 236 ml of water weighs 15 ounces mass. Depending on the density of the sealant compared to water, the weight could be higher or lower. I suspect the sealant is denser than water.
cool video.
What valve stems are you using for this setup?
the video is interesting the music is a bit distressing, I would like to know what are the advantages of this type of tubeless ???
Tubeless gives you better traction and allows you to run lower pressures without the risk of pinching the tube between the tire and the rim in bumpy terrain (which would cause a flat). People run these fat bikes as low as 2PSI in the winter to give them good traction in the snow and this wouldn't be very safe if you were running tubes.
@@flyingfish555 I'd run tubes at 5psi
Please stop music forever. All music should be shoved into a space ship and sent to outerspace
Could i do this with just sealant and no duct tape ?
How much weight can the wheels hold without tubes or is it the same ?
***** I wieghed the tube it was 16 oz. The stans sauce and tape weighed 10 oz. So a little bit of weight savings. I like running Stans because as long as you keep putting sauce in there every few months it really prevents flats. Not sure how its gonna work on my new fat bike,... I will find out in the coming months.
Awesome spoke pop at 7:57!!!
just as it's seated/aired without the tube in it...
nice video overall...
thank's for posting it;-)
Thats actually the bead seating into place on the rim
Well done! 😆
So what exactly is the point of this process?
I don't understand what the point of placing the tube back in the tire is only to remove it once more after partially inflating it... Can anyone explain?
So how low a PSI do you feel you can run like this? I have not tested this but how heavy are those fat tubes and is this worth risking the flat? I run tubless on my XC bike and just looking into fat bikes now so I'm very new at this. Thank you for the video!
5-7 psi
The last step is hilarious :)
So what are the advantages for running tubeless?
That is what I was going to ask. Looks like they don't want to answer the question.
With cars you don't get instant flat
Just watch a guy use a thin hvac 100mm width tape. Then a tub less tape. He claims he’s had zero flats from customers and only used 4oz. Not saying it’s better but what do you think?
Whatever, I'm a purist, I don't want a bunch of tape and goo in my Mongoose Beast or Dolomite tires. The issue of weight is for a bike like the new Mongoose Argus with an Aluminum alloy frame. I've got my eye on that one, but I still find myself not wanting to do without the full suspension fat tire mountain bikes that they are now coming up with. More money, but more bang.
Help! My valve core on my tubeless set up has broken off. What is the easiest solution? Thanks!
+John Sprague If its the internal part (the core) that has broken you can probably remove that and replace with one from an old tube. I've done that and it works. Otherwise you'll need to buy some new valve stems
+John Sprague by a new fat bike!!!!
Ryan Jung Take off eh! :)
LOL. Love the last step.
No entiendo ni un culo de inglés pero comprendí viendo cómo es que se hace que es lo importante 👍🏻🇨🇴
One thing not shown on this video is the installation of the valve. Do you just cut a little hole in the guerrilla tape and push the valve through and tighten?
Yes, you can use multiple tools to punch that hole - a #2 Phillips screwdriver, cut a small X with a razor blade, jam the valve through the tape allowing the valve itself to form the hole, or a sharp dental pick, just be sure to keep the hole small as to not create a place for air to leak through.
If you simply like the "grunge" look, then go without the valve caps. Some people just like grungy looking valve caps. I have no problem with that.
That's, "grungy looking valves," rather. But some valve caps may look grungy, too. That's OK for me, I like the "rat-rod" look as well as the "flashy, cosmetically perfect" look.
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Thumbs up for throwing away the valve cap. LOL Those things are pretty worthless for sure.
Why is the Gorilla tape required over the rim strip? I have HED wheels with rim strips that includes an instruction pamphlet that says to use Gorilla tape. However, a HED produced youtube instructional video on how to convert to tubeless sets it up without the Gorilla tape.
+tanwera Cuz of the rim cutouts. I'm thinking if the stock rim strip is too flimsy run a narrower run of Gorilla tape just to reinforce the stock strip, then do the full with sealingtape run.
Cut out the music
would you prefer dubstep, mr brody?
No, its just too loud. Good for the intro, fade out during the instruction and back up for the exit. Classical is fine, but I would prefer Trap.
+Joseph Brody ........... For the life of me I can't even fathom why ANYONE on Earth would put music in a tutorial. He doesn't have a mike near his mouth and the music is louder than his voice. LOL. GOD WHAT THE FUCK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Agreed.
very carefully..)
What's the advantage of going tubeless?
no flats. period. ever.
Great video but I sure would have liked it if he didn't drag the compressor coupling across the rotor.
I've watched a few "how to: tubeless fat" videos tonight. My question is this... In the world of standard size mtn bike wheels, there are specific "tubeless ready" wheels and tires. I don't believe this tech exists for our fatties, so am I to understand that, up to this point, everyone is converting normal, everyday (tubeless ready) wheels and tires using this method?
Well here in the Texas at the dollar tree store where I live in they have all tipes of mountain bike tubes for a dollar I went and I bought 10 tubes for a dollar each
For real I never heard of that lucky lucky lucky Massachusetts does not
*Or* you could leave the tube in a stop the madness.
I can imagine how dangerous this could be if you are riding fast and got a flat tire you go down real quick different than regular tube
I have been riding tubeless for 5 years on different bikes. I have NEVER had a flat. My fat bike is for desert riding, not snow. I have ridden over bushes filled with goat-heads, cactus, and broken glass on pavement. I have little doubt that I have had hundreds of punctures, but running tubeless with Stans, I have never noticed. This is the way.
Why don't you remove the stock surly rim strip entirely ?
+Aly Awad
You would then have super-sticky adhesive bubbles protruding out of the inside of your wheels, ready to pick up all the dirt and grime that wheels collect.
Couldn't you just put the tape straight on the rim like you would in a normal tubeless setup?
Fat bike rims have massive holes for weight reduction, which is the black you can see in the rim between the spokes. While it might theoretically be possible, you will have the sticky side of the tape excised to both Dirt and the elements, which might cause it to start peeling back from the rim, resulting in a flat.
@@acerbicgeoff7821 Those holed out wheels suck, I'd never buy a bike with such wheels
Thinking about getting a fatty but I have some questions, first, why go tubeless? Not really sure I understand this concept. i can see from a money standpoint where you wouldn't have to by tubes or run the risk of never being able to find a tube. other than that, i just don't get it. Not knocking it, just not understanding it.
Weight savings. Also heard the tires roll better tube less.
stoichiometric weight saving vs not being able to fix a flat when you're out in the middle of nowhere. Plus the sealant weighs 8oz?!
Tubeless = within a km from home bike XD
ha
No one's mentioned this one for some reason --- with tubeless, you gets flats way less often. When there's a puncture, the sealant usually seeps through it and fixes itself, and this can happen with holes up to 1/4" I believe. Plus, you don't get pinch flats.
Then if by some chance you do get a flat, you can fix it just as you would a tire with tubes --- all tubeless rims are backwards-compatible. Just carry around an extra tube in your pack and slip it in.
So:
Pros - flats become very infrequent, less weight, no money spent on tubes,
ability to run lower air pressure for more comfort (because no pinch flats)
Cons - money spent on sealant (~$2 per _empty_ tire), impossible to fix on the trail (with a hand pump) (but you can always revert to tubes)
Great video, I learned a lot but what’s with the f()@king music
,music sucked
I can't get my Specialized Mission Controls to seat for the life of me.... I'm about ready to do a hairspray bomb or go back to tubes... UGH
That music is far too loud and the voice is very low quality :(
It's already tubeless, So Your just adding a layer of tape to the rim strip ?
Marine Sealant Works good too, on the Nipples if you have a tube type tire.
A little dab on the nipples and you're done.
Anthony William Rich Jr did you happen to notice the giant holes in the fat tire rims?
Why not use 10 or 20 mil PVC tape? It should keep air from leaking and you won't need to use as much sealant or just a dot on each nipple on regular or double walled rims??
Thanks
Mike
+Mike B i think the sealant is meant for the tire moreso then the rim tape. the rubber tire is more porous then the gaff tape. plus the sealant adds protection in the event that you have a pinch or puncture.
i dont get it.. whats wrong with having tubes.. if your out riding its so much easier to fix a flat if you need to.. i dont see any real advantage other than a lil bit of weight for the tube..
way less flats than running with tubes
It really does prevent most punctures. I have had some pretty large objects puncture my tire and have still been able to just pull them out and let the sealant seal the hole. Honestly anything bigger and the tire would have been done for even with a tube. It's a lot easer to shake a tire around and ad whatever little air was lost than it is to remove the wheel, pull off the tire and replace the tube...... in the snow. If you only ride your fatbike in snow and don't get punctures ever than it may not be worth it but if you ride outside of winter it really is nice. On a normal bike it doesn't shed much weight but on a midfat and fat bike I have found that most tubeless setups shed 2-3lbs and it makes a noticeable difference in acceleration.
Wild Outdoor Living f
The type of riding definitely makes a difference. Even though there is a benefit in most applications that benefit is bigger in some than it is in others. In fat bikes, trail, and XC bikes that have a pretty thin carcass, need to run low pressures and encounter a lot of different terrain tubeless is awesome. On a downhill or DJ bike the tires are so thick and pressures so high that going to a tubeless set up just isn't worth the extra effort especially if you don't already have tubeless wheels and tires.
Unless you use Slime in your tubes. Same effect - but a fraction of the hassle and cost.
why is music necessary?
"Go back a few steps"? You do realize with that "goo" in there that "going back a few steps" is fraught with problems most novices are going to find so frustrating they are going to wonder why the hell they tried to do it themselves in the first place, right? Must be done right the first time, I reckon.
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I realize you didn't have much air in that tire I like my tires head
the music is horrible. Why?
The audio is clear, stop listening through shit devices. That’s said the violin could be quieter, background music makes the video less monotone.
Why try to save a little weight, its a FAT bike ... ??? and its a million times easier to fix a flat with an extra inner tube when stuck in the woods... i dont get it apart for having to go to a bike shop to get it fixed...
Pierre D I run tubeless on my mountain bike and I have never had a flat in 6 years. My friends that are running tubes have one almost every ride.
snow4days Then your freinds need more puncture resistant tyres.
-
I agree and you can buy some pretty light weight tubes.. i was looking into tubeless but the weight lost from removing a tube just isnt enough reason for me to switch over. Like you said i rather just carry a spare tube.
Keep the valve cap, lose the music. It is not needed. 🤣
TURN UP THAT FUCKING MUSIC MORE!!!!
Good video however, the music has to go...
There is no need in weight
Talk about the mass of the bike
This gotta be the most stupid thing to do ever. The tire sealant and the tape must weigh more than the tube itself. And when (not if) you get a flat, it's going to be a total mess to deal with.
I understand reluctance to change with reason. I also understand reason to change. This isn't necessarily the case. A fat tube generally weighs 300-400 grams each. 8 ounces is about half that. Gorilla tape about another 50grams. 80% of flats are pinch flats. Tubes get pinch flats. So that leaves only 20% of your already low chances of a flatting when riding tubeless. In exchange for your setup work of going tubeless, here's what you actually get:
1) Less flats becasue pinch flats don't occur
2) Less rolling resistance due to no friction between tube and tire and tube and rim.
3) Between 300-700 grams less weight where it matters most, the tires.
4) More supple feel at the tires due to less physical barriers
5) More grip
6) Less energy spent riding the thing
7) More speed
8) Cheapest way to reduce weight
Then, IF you flat, you can put in a tube!
If you don't get it or need it, you won't do it.
Butwhy Doesitmatter Ok. Then i can see the positive in this. Thanks.
it would be an advantage even if it made it a pound heavier...
ever see a tire that big go flat?
it'll brake the wheel by rubbing against the frame...
with sealant, your odds are good that you'll only need a few pumps of air from a cheap bike frame pump...
Dude, if you take a weedwacker to it, then maybe possibly it might. That's terrible advice...frame pumps will take forever!! co2 or compressor is ideal, floor pump is decent plan b.
I tried this method and the gorilla tape leaked bad.