Much appreciated! I think there are a lot of videos on this and lots of competition. I really glad you liked it 😀 I just do videos on whatever I'm currently working on or need to fix
I was always a sintered guy, I'm heavy and resin would fade on decents. Recently switch to ceramic pads (like car pads - not resin). Damn they are insane, modulate like resin, power and fade resist of metallic. Really worth trying out.
Last Thursday (October 26, 2023) I rode my Commencal up 1800ft to the top of McCollough Peak on the Oregon Coast Mountain Range. It was sometimes muddy and quite a climb (McCollough Peak el 2155ft, McDonald Research Forest, Oregon Sate University). Coming down was a different trip, and all the way I was thankful for my metallic pads, front and rear. Started down PlayTime Trail*, but it was too muddy from recent rains- but it looks like the trail in this video. I ended up a different descent, the logging road which needed constant braking to keep me under 28mph. LOL :) I thought about your video on the way down. :) Thank you! *2 years ago I rode down Playtime, but this time would have brought damage to the trail and probably me as I slid off some steep bank.
I live in wet and muddy Oregon - but sometimes it is dry. Long climbs from 330ft to 2000 ft over 2 to 3 miles, and then screaming downhill. I ride a full suspension mtn bike with sram level t brakes. I have found having metallic on back and organic on front works for me. I have never had brake fade, but am waiting for it. If I do and/or I decided to switch anything, I will do metallic for both front and back. After this video, I think that I will throw into my backpack a set of metallic pad, just in case. Thank you for this great video that really covers everything!!!
Thanks, Doc! I’m running metallic on the rear of both of my bikes. I have some for the fronts when the organic ones wear out. It’s been perfectly fine on the long, steep descents I do which are usually 1000-1500’ without a break. I’ll put up with the occasional noise for the performance 😊👊🤙
i guess if U moved down from Seattle U might notice some dryness about Portland. moving up from CA, all i remember about Cooper Mountain in Beaverton is rain & snow & steep hills.....definately full metallic pad country 🤣
For trips in winter and when the weather is very wet, it is better to use brake pads made of solid copper sheet. 100% copper brake pads do not require heating like sintered metal. and work from a cold start. therefore they work better than baked in mud, water and in winter.
what I do and also works for me is run resin pads with shimano Ice-tech rotors 203mm, I'm agree with you that metallic pads last longer but they make me miss the grip and precision of the resin ones
I had exactly the same problem last year. The original brakes on my Bergamont Trailster were cheap shimano brakes with ressing. They were great but descending from the 2500 m mountain was painfull. I had to stop couple of times and wait till they cool down a little bit. After that i bought magura mt5 with mettalic pads. A huge difference. But magura mt5 with mettalich pads was also terrible on rainy conditions, zero breakpower. I found ressin much better on wet condition then my magura mt5 4 piston brakes. In wet condition they had zero break power and also extremly loud.
It's always a good idea to brake hard to slow way way down and find places that you can take your fingers off the brakes completely. This always for a tiny bit of cooling to help keep the heat down.
Just a little FYI - there is a third category of brake pads as well. We are based in Utah and produce performance ceramic brake pads in two different compounds....
Where can I find ceramic brake pads that will fit the shimano xt m8100 TWO piston brakes? And would I need to upgrade to a larger 180 rotor instead of my stock 160?
Thanks for the video - one tip though if I may - do not put water on discs that are mega hot... it can change the properties of the metal, and could ultimately alter your braking capabilities, which in my book is somewhat counter productive ;) Keep it up - greetings from Switzerland
I pretty much only run metallic pads, the reduction of brake fade has been something that I have really enjoyed, as well as the additional power, I can brake later and with more consistency, so why not?
I hate to break this to you, but SRAM brakes are prone to extensive brake fade. Compared to Shimano or TRP, SRAM brakes have to be serviced every week in order to offer similar performance. If you want to combat brake fade, the best and most effective way would be to get rid of your SRAM brakes and to buy a Shimano brake set. It really makes such a huge difference
I remember reading you need to do something when going to resin from sintered. Is sanding down rotars all you need to do then. Keep up good work. Thanks for showing!
@@teeeejaay89 they are some amazon mechanical brakes. But both pistons inside moves. 180mm front 160mm rear. Both floating rotors. bo1s metallic pads. Once at operating temperature i can lock up both tires if i want. Wont go hydro as i hate the maintenance
Great video! How loud can metallic pads be? I have just bought a MTB with SRAM Level T brakes (180/160) and I suspect the pads are metallic. When braking at low speeds (cold disc), the front brake makes a loud harsh, metallic noise. Downhill, at higher speeds (warm disc), the noise disappears. The bike is pretty new, maybe 20 or 30 miles. Thank you in advance.
Agreed! I’ve swapped my back brakes on both bikes to metallic. I’ll change the fronts when they wear out. Thanks for letting me know about the upload. The original video file was corrupted 😊
I have metallic pads on my patrol but what I ended up doing was changing the rotor for a 203mm in the rear so now I have 203 both front and rear. The feeling is a lot better and they don’t heat as fast or as much.. I don’t know why bikes don’t come with 200mm rotors all the way around
Its all about the cost and durability. Some forks can't handle 200mm rotors since they might crack. I don't know about these frames but bigger rotors in the back is not something I would recommend.
Some bikes are also designed different. Like XC and downhill for example, XC is an all-around bike that is designed to both handle uphill and downhill. While downhill, ofcourse is designed to go downhill instead of uphill. Downhill bikes are quite heavy
I wouldn't bed in pads by dragging the brakes it glazes the pads, find a slope and do a dozen sudden stops to put quick heat into them, they will work better.
The problem with sudden stops when bedding in pads is it puts more material in small spots on the disc, which will cause an uneven surface and give you a grinding skipping sound/feel. Dragging the brakes at slow speeds distributes the material evenly. Both ways work and do what you feel is best for you. That’s just the way I’ve been told by local pros.
I just set up my bike with disc brakes for the first time in my life and I get a lot of shuddering along with mediocre brake power compared to my trusty rim brakes. And yes, I bedded them in. I'm running alligator windcutters with TRP spyre mechanicals which came with semi metallic pads. I agonisingly tinkered with every aspect I could think of to get the breaking power up and to reduce the shuddering as much as possible. while I've made some improvements, I still have barely adequate braking power and unbearable shuddering. I had to retighten my headset as a result. I'm scratching my head on this one. Do I need to switch to resin pads? Are wind cutters not compatible with the TRP spyres? Is this just something I should expect with disc brakes in general?
Change your rotors. It seems that the wind cutters shape might be the cause of the shuddering. When the pads get in contact with the part of the rotor with higher surface area, the braking force is higher; and when the disk rotates and the part where there's less surface area gets in contact with the pads, the braking force goes down. Also keep in mind the pad profile when getting new rotors. I did a little research and it looks like the trp spyre uses the same pad profile as the Shimano B03S or B05S (which is kinda on the bigger side). Searching them in the Shimano website I saw that they are compatible with SM-RT26 rotor. And in this rotor, the braking zone is bigger, so the whole pad gets in contact with it. You can also look up the SRAM Centerline rotors, and the SRAM avid brake pads, and you'll notice that the braking zone on the rotor is smaller, but also the pad is shorter. So, you could use a Shimano rotor with the smaller SRAM avid pads, but not the other way around, since using a bigger pad on centerline rotors would make the pad float and then come in contact with one of the 12 "spokes" of the rotor, and the float again in a cycle that would end up in a shudder. I'm kinda late writing this 2 months after, but I hope it helps, and I'm sorry if you didn't understand, but I couldn't explain it any better since English is not my first language. I you have doubts or something just let me know. Also if you fixed your problem let me know. Thanks Also, you don't necessarily need a SM-RT26 rotor (this rotor is for resin pad only), you just need a rotor with a bigger braking zone than the ones you currently have.
@@eljaibas16 I understood perfectly. I think you're right. The windcutter's profile makes for low braking surface contact. I bought some CNC rotors. I'm planning to swap them in the next time I have to change tire. (I've got this on a rear hub motor ebike and wheel removal/install is quite a process) Thanks for your thoughts on the brake pads profiles. I was getting overhang issues when I first installed everything and ended up having to go down a size with my adapter and fill the gap with cone washers
Thanks and sorry! It’s really confusing but scintered is sometimes used in place of metallic and sometimes for a combination of metallic/ceramic. In the states metallic is more common and elsewhere “scintered” may be more prevalent. Straight ceramic is different too. I know…confusing. This video was intended to cover the overall differences between stock pads and other options.
If you make downhill use 203mm front rotor and 180mm rear rotor. You won't get long braking power if you use 160mm rotors with these pads, unless you switch to sintered pads. With ceramic pads your brakes get practically the same effects of resin pads (organic) but they last longer and absorb a little bit more heat. With 160mm rotor or lower it's not worth it.
two points: 1) In addition to checking the rotor compatibility with metallic pads, be sure to also check caliper compatibility. Lots of bikes come from the factories with cheaper-grade calipers that can melt from the heat generated by metallic pads. 2) One thousand vertical feet should not burn up your brake. If your rear brake gets too hot, but your front brake doesn't, it's a sure sign that you have poor braking technique. Two-thirds of your potential braking power comes from the front brake. If you were using your rear brake predominantly, it is no wonder why your brake failed.
I really believe that the "rotor compatibility" is anything but snake oil. 100% of bicycle rotors* are made from the generally same stainless steel alloy and nothing else. And it's a high iron alloy with some nickel, some chromium and little else. And I'd rather replace rotors every few years than spend a minute in a hospital. Rotors are cheap - medication is expensiv *I ain't talking about exotic road bikes with ceramic or carbon fiber rotors meant to be used with cork pads and other silly stuff like that.
Hey man! I'm about to change my worn-out brake pads this week but I'm still thinking if I should buy semi-metallic pads or ceramic pads. The rotors that I currently use are Shimano rt26 which indicates "resin pads only". Is it still safe to use those brake pads that I'm planning to buy? Can you please help me decide? Thank you!
You need to compress the piston/pistons into the cylinder. First remove the fill cap or cover and be ready to catch the excess fluid. Clean the piston with alcohol. Then use a plastic tire lever to push the piston back in. Now you have room for the thicker pads.
@@_Hayward_ clean...yes (rubbing alcohol is great) sand...not necessary but I do. Just be sure to “bed in” the new pads with some big brake applications at first😁
Do overly hard (sintered or metallic)pads tend to glaze a lot, if you’re not on them hard all the time? Thinking I need to go softer on the rear, as I cannot endure the noise, vibration, etc of the things!
![จบจนได้ ! | Black Myth: Wukong #007 [ตอนจบ?]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DSqvWndF0sw/mqdefault.jpg)
I cant believe how underrated this video is! Great info, and very entertaining to watch. Keep it up!
Much appreciated! I think there are a lot of videos on this and lots of competition. I really glad you liked it 😀 I just do videos on whatever I'm currently working on or need to fix
I was always a sintered guy, I'm heavy and resin would fade on decents. Recently switch to ceramic pads (like car pads - not resin). Damn they are insane, modulate like resin, power and fade resist of metallic. Really worth trying out.
What about the disk?
Last Thursday (October 26, 2023) I rode my Commencal up 1800ft to the top of McCollough Peak on the Oregon Coast Mountain Range. It was sometimes muddy and quite a climb (McCollough Peak el 2155ft, McDonald Research Forest, Oregon Sate University). Coming down was a different trip, and all the way I was thankful for my metallic pads, front and rear. Started down PlayTime Trail*, but it was too muddy from recent rains- but it looks like the trail in this video. I ended up a different descent, the logging road which needed constant braking to keep me under 28mph. LOL :)
I thought about your video on the way down. :) Thank you!
*2 years ago I rode down Playtime, but this time would have brought damage to the trail and probably me as I slid off some steep bank.
I live in wet and muddy Oregon - but sometimes it is dry. Long climbs from 330ft to 2000 ft over 2 to 3 miles, and then screaming downhill. I ride a full suspension mtn bike with sram level t brakes. I have found having metallic on back and organic on front works for me. I have never had brake fade, but am waiting for it. If I do and/or I decided to switch anything, I will do metallic for both front and back. After this video, I think that I will throw into my backpack a set of metallic pad, just in case.
Thank you for this great video that really covers everything!!!
Thanks, Doc! I’m running metallic on the rear of both of my bikes. I have some for the fronts when the organic ones wear out. It’s been perfectly fine on the long, steep descents I do which are usually 1000-1500’ without a break. I’ll put up with the occasional noise for the performance 😊👊🤙
i guess if U moved down from Seattle U might notice some dryness about Portland. moving up from CA, all i remember about Cooper Mountain in Beaverton is rain & snow & steep hills.....definately full metallic pad country 🤣
😅😅
For trips in winter and when the weather is very wet, it is better to use brake pads made of solid copper sheet.
100% copper brake pads do not require heating like sintered metal.
and work from a cold start.
therefore they work better than baked in mud, water and in winter.
Exactly the info I needed all in one place - thanks a lot
Glad it was helpful! 😀 Thanks!
what I do and also works for me is run resin pads with shimano Ice-tech rotors 203mm, I'm agree with you that metallic pads last longer but they make me miss the grip and precision of the resin ones
Yeah, resin pads are quiet and instantly grippy. I'm still running them out front
thanks for sharing your input on different kind of brake pads. now i have to try each kind of compounds.
I wish I’d done it sooner😁
I'm considering whether to buy a ceramic brake pads or semi-metallic brake pads, but you didn't show the ceramic one unfortunately😢
I had exactly the same problem last year. The original brakes on my Bergamont Trailster were cheap shimano brakes with ressing. They were great but descending from the 2500 m mountain was painfull. I had to stop couple of times and wait till they cool down a little bit. After that i bought magura mt5 with mettalic pads. A huge difference. But magura mt5 with mettalich pads was also terrible on rainy conditions, zero breakpower. I found ressin much better on wet condition then my magura mt5 4 piston brakes. In wet condition they had zero break power and also extremly loud.
Maybe try a semi-metallic?
It's always a good idea to brake hard to slow way way down and find places that you can take your fingers off the brakes completely. This always for a tiny bit of cooling to help keep the heat down.
Thanks, Jay! Usually I can do this. Those on longer, steeper trails probably can't do this.
Love your tip on centering the caliper!!
Glad it was helpful!
Just a little FYI - there is a third category of brake pads as well. We are based in Utah and produce performance ceramic brake pads in two different compounds....
Yes, I didn't cover those because I hadn't used them. Thanks!
Where can I find ceramic brake pads that will fit the shimano xt m8100 TWO piston brakes? And would I need to upgrade to a larger 180 rotor instead of my stock 160?
Thanks for the video - one tip though if I may - do not put water on discs that are mega hot... it can change the properties of the metal, and could ultimately alter your braking capabilities, which in my book is somewhat counter productive ;) Keep it up - greetings from Switzerland
thanks for this review TB, really helpful.... replacing my pads this summer...
I pretty much only run metallic pads, the reduction of brake fade has been something that I have really enjoyed, as well as the additional power, I can brake later and with more consistency, so why not?
I’m with ya!
I hate to break this to you, but SRAM brakes are prone to extensive brake fade. Compared to Shimano or TRP, SRAM brakes have to be serviced every week in order to offer similar performance. If you want to combat brake fade, the best and most effective way would be to get rid of your SRAM brakes and to buy a Shimano brake set. It really makes such a huge difference
I like shimano too ( I have Zee brakes on my Kona) but after switching to metallic pads on my Sram I've had zero issues with fade or feel.
I'm in north ga as well !
Great video very informative.
I remember reading you need to do something when going to resin from sintered. Is sanding down rotars all you need to do then. Keep up good work. Thanks for showing!
There may be a real procedure but this works for me
agreed, needs to specifically address sintered pads
Nice video. Here’s all the info i needed. Thanks man. Keep doing this. Greeting from Peru.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching! There's more to come😀👊👍
Awesome video bud, some great little tips here 🙂
I don't see a lot of emphasis on brake *rotor* material type; only size. To me, it seems like this matters. Does it really matter?
Very informative, thanks for all the information!!
Hi,thanks for the helpful information.
Greetings from Austria!
My pleasure! Welcome!
For my ebike. I had to run metallic as it came stock with resin as a regular mtb. Stopping from 45mph would jus overheat them right away
What brake set up do you have? Brand? Size of rotor?
@@teeeejaay89 they are some amazon mechanical brakes. But both pistons inside moves. 180mm front 160mm rear. Both floating rotors. bo1s metallic pads. Once at operating temperature i can lock up both tires if i want. Wont go hydro as i hate the maintenance
Great video! You used the same disc for both pads though (resin, and semi metallic).
Great info! Very helpful! Thank you sir!
Thanks and you're welcome!
Great video bud!
Thanks! I appreciate it👊🏻
Great video!
How loud can metallic pads be? I have just bought a MTB with SRAM Level T brakes (180/160) and I suspect the pads are metallic. When braking at low speeds (cold disc), the front brake makes a loud harsh, metallic noise. Downhill, at higher speeds (warm disc), the noise disappears. The bike is pretty new, maybe 20 or 30 miles.
Thank you in advance.
Metallic pads. After coming from resin pads, I really don't notice any short comings going to metallic.
Agreed! I’ve swapped my back brakes on both bikes to metallic. I’ll change the fronts when they wear out. Thanks for letting me know about the upload. The original video file was corrupted 😊
@@TrailBreaker yeah it ended too abruptly to be your style.
I have metallic pads on my patrol but what I ended up doing was changing the rotor for a 203mm in the rear so now I have 203 both front and rear. The feeling is a lot better and they don’t heat as fast or as much.. I don’t know why bikes don’t come with 200mm rotors all the way around
Its all about the cost and durability. Some forks can't handle 200mm rotors since they might crack. I don't know about these frames but bigger rotors in the back is not something I would recommend.
Some bikes are also designed different. Like XC and downhill for example, XC is an all-around bike that is designed to both handle uphill and downhill. While downhill, ofcourse is designed to go downhill instead of uphill. Downhill bikes are quite heavy
I have a heavy Fat Tire electric bike. I have found it much easier to just remove the caliper install the brake pads and replace the caliper.
nice and to the point. good video.
This was super helpful 🤙🏾
Glad it helped!
Awesome video, definitely helpfull!
Nice job showing how hot they can get by squirting water!
I wouldn't bed in pads by dragging the brakes it glazes the pads, find a slope and do a dozen sudden stops to put quick heat into them, they will work better.
Oh, thanks!
The problem with sudden stops when bedding in pads is it puts more material in small spots on the disc, which will cause an uneven surface and give you a grinding skipping sound/feel. Dragging the brakes at slow speeds distributes the material evenly. Both ways work and do what you feel is best for you. That’s just the way I’ve been told by local pros.
I just set up my bike with disc brakes for the first time in my life and I get a lot of shuddering along with mediocre brake power compared to my trusty rim brakes. And yes, I bedded them in.
I'm running alligator windcutters with TRP spyre mechanicals which came with semi metallic pads.
I agonisingly tinkered with every aspect I could think of to get the breaking power up and to reduce the shuddering as much as possible. while I've made some improvements, I still have barely adequate braking power and unbearable shuddering. I had to retighten my headset as a result.
I'm scratching my head on this one. Do I need to switch to resin pads? Are wind cutters not compatible with the TRP spyres? Is this just something I should expect with disc brakes in general?
Change your rotors. It seems that the wind cutters shape might be the cause of the shuddering. When the pads get in contact with the part of the rotor with higher surface area, the braking force is higher; and when the disk rotates and the part where there's less surface area gets in contact with the pads, the braking force goes down.
Also keep in mind the pad profile when getting new rotors. I did a little research and it looks like the trp spyre uses the same pad profile as the Shimano B03S or B05S (which is kinda on the bigger side). Searching them in the Shimano website I saw that they are compatible with SM-RT26 rotor. And in this rotor, the braking zone is bigger, so the whole pad gets in contact with it.
You can also look up the SRAM Centerline rotors, and the SRAM avid brake pads, and you'll notice that the braking zone on the rotor is smaller, but also the pad is shorter. So, you could use a Shimano rotor with the smaller SRAM avid pads, but not the other way around, since using a bigger pad on centerline rotors would make the pad float and then come in contact with one of the 12 "spokes" of the rotor, and the float again in a cycle that would end up in a shudder.
I'm kinda late writing this 2 months after, but I hope it helps, and I'm sorry if you didn't understand, but I couldn't explain it any better since English is not my first language. I you have doubts or something just let me know. Also if you fixed your problem let me know. Thanks
Also, you don't necessarily need a SM-RT26 rotor (this rotor is for resin pad only), you just need a rotor with a bigger braking zone than the ones you currently have.
@@eljaibas16 I understood perfectly. I think you're right. The windcutter's profile makes for low braking surface contact. I bought some CNC rotors. I'm planning to swap them in the next time I have to change tire. (I've got this on a rear hub motor ebike and wheel removal/install is quite a process)
Thanks for your thoughts on the brake pads profiles. I was getting overhang issues when I first installed everything and ended up having to go down a size with my adapter and fill the gap with cone washers
excellent vid, would like to hear from your mouth about scintered pads & NOT just something flashed onscreen
Thanks and sorry! It’s really confusing but scintered is sometimes used in place of metallic and sometimes for a combination of metallic/ceramic. In the states metallic is more common and elsewhere “scintered” may be more prevalent. Straight ceramic is different too. I know…confusing. This video was intended to cover the overall differences between stock pads and other options.
I'm Not a Trail Rider .. More on Road Climbing and Descent...
I'm Using in my Rear " Semi Metallic "
And Resin in Front...
it's Good
Yeah, I use metallic in back and semi- up front on my trail bike
great advice, thanks
You're welcome!
what disc rotors do i buy if i have metallic brake pads
What about ceramic pads... I heard good things about them but I haven’t try one yet
If you make downhill use 203mm front rotor and 180mm rear rotor. You won't get long braking power if you use 160mm rotors with these pads, unless you switch to sintered pads.
With ceramic pads your brakes get practically the same effects of resin pads (organic) but they last longer and absorb a little bit more heat.
With 160mm rotor or lower it's not worth it.
two points:
1) In addition to checking the rotor compatibility with metallic pads, be sure to also check caliper compatibility. Lots of bikes come from the factories with cheaper-grade calipers that can melt from the heat generated by metallic pads.
2) One thousand vertical feet should not burn up your brake. If your rear brake gets too hot, but your front brake doesn't, it's a sure sign that you have poor braking technique. Two-thirds of your potential braking power comes from the front brake. If you were using your rear brake predominantly, it is no wonder why your brake failed.
Finally
I have a 2 piston shimano xt m8100 brake, to learn what wheelie pad fits, resin or metal. What shimano series to choose
Check the number on the rotor for compatibility
1:58 "So what did I learn ?" ... brake fade will cause you to be thirsty later 😅
LOL yes I was pretty dry by the end of the ride!
I did the 667'th like. Great video.
Great Vid
I really believe that the "rotor compatibility" is anything but snake oil.
100% of bicycle rotors* are made from the generally same stainless steel alloy and nothing else. And it's a high iron alloy with some nickel, some chromium and little else.
And I'd rather replace rotors every few years than spend a minute in a hospital.
Rotors are cheap - medication is expensiv
*I ain't talking about exotic road bikes with ceramic or carbon fiber rotors meant to be used with cork pads and other silly stuff like that.
hello,i have disc brake pads on amazon,but im not sure it works or not,i want to give them away,i dont know who can help,can you give me some advice?
Hey man! I'm about to change my worn-out brake pads this week but I'm still thinking if I should buy semi-metallic pads or ceramic pads. The rotors that I currently use are Shimano rt26 which indicates "resin pads only". Is it still safe to use those brake pads that I'm planning to buy? Can you please help me decide? Thank you!
Sick vid ty
You're welcome 👊👍
Thank you :)
You're welcome!
Would you recommend metallic pads for commuting / daily driving? Or is it bad because they got to be on temperature?
Not really. As you guessed, resin pads are quiet and work well when cold. Metallic will be squealing anytime they're wet and cold.
@@TrailBreaker alright, thank you!
Tengo una masa y rueda armada solo llanta avísame eje 20 slx permuto por 6t o veo plata
thank you
You're welcome👊
Can I use metal brake pads on resin only disks ?
You can but it’ll wear them out and might be noisy
6:27 ... dont have enough room for my new brake pads.. what should i do?
You need to compress the piston/pistons into the cylinder. First remove the fill cap or cover and be ready to catch the excess fluid. Clean the piston with alcohol. Then use a plastic tire lever to push the piston back in. Now you have room for the thicker pads.
Another option is CERAMIC...I use it for my sports car.
Yes, I decided to stick to more common pads to keep it simple.
My stock pads uses organic pads can i use resin pads ? Cause resin is the only thing available in our local shop.
Resin and organic are the same😊
@@TrailBreaker Thanks for the reply 😁 But still need to clean and sand the rotors right ?
@@_Hayward_ clean...yes (rubbing alcohol is great) sand...not necessary but I do. Just be sure to “bed in” the new pads with some big brake applications at first😁
@@TrailBreaker Thanks Man 😁
Where did you go for that decent? Here in Georgia?
Yeah. Not really a published trail
What pads are you using? Have you every tried different compounds?
resin pad
How do I understand what rotor and pads I have?
Do overly hard (sintered or metallic)pads tend to glaze a lot, if you’re not on them hard all the time?
Thinking I need to go softer on the rear, as I cannot endure the noise, vibration, etc of the things!
Brake pad life‘s matter
Yes Sir!
just let go of the breaks and full send bro lol
Los discos Shimano only resind pasa shit si o si con pastillas shimano
You forgot Organic Brakepads.... we can send you for test...
Organic = resin
Rotors are CHEAP! Use Semi-metal for better stopping when you NEED it...or go off a cliff.
lol semi-metallic is the least I'll use now and then only up front.
Brake pad lives matter 😂