Trace patterns onto clear sheet (transparencies), cut out and trace onto cabinet laminate, then cut out. You now have a template that will stand up to handling and can be stored and used repeatedly. Put all templates for the plane together and store. They can be pulled out at any time to cut more pieces for another plane or for repairs. You can actually have a few copies of the plans made, cut duplicates of everything as you go, when you're done you will have several complete kits, sell the extras and pay for the one you keep and build. Just options.
Many many companies are making kits...but its much more fun and cheaper to do it yourself, the funnest thing in the world for me is flying something you completely 100% designed and built from scratch.
I use a material called SeeTemp Kind of like transparent thin plastic that cuts after you score it with a blade. Bend and comes apart easily and you have a rigid template.
Glad to have you on board... I very much like how building and flying model airplanes is truely international. Glad to hear you are getting back to the building board.
Carbon paper works the best for me. Lay the wood and the carbon paper underneath the plants. And then trace the plans with a ballpoint pen. Then I noticed that you did it anyway. That is always been the best way for me
Place tracing paper over the plan when using the carbon paper technique, hold in place with painter tape. That way your plan is even more protected should you wish to keep using the same plan or pass along to a friend.
I just get a second plan, the first is to cut up and use as templates, the other is to build from. I glue the one I use for templates to some styrene sheet to try and save them for the inevitable repairs :(
New subsciber Dan. Just a note on the formers. If your looking to save on balsa, not just you but others, your smaller former looks like it could fit in the 2nd bigger former to the right.
I use a sewing pin (with nylon bobble on the top to be kinder on the fingers) instead of an Awl as it leaves less of a hole in the plans! Worked good for me for 40 years.
@@simonbaxter8001 Also more like to pierce your fingers. I've used map pins since 1976 and have NEVER split any balsa nor have I injured a finger with a needle.
Hi from Australia. If the plan is printed with toner ink you can place the drawing face down place the wood under the part to be copied and use an iron on the back of the plan and it will print it on to the wood 😁😁
one way i make my templates is... i cut the template i get the wood ready. i use blue 3m tape i put it on the wood then i glue the template on the tape. let it dry cut the wood and peel the blue tape off...
Didn't talk about vellum paper. That's what I used. Lay it over the plans and you can see through it so you can copy the former onto it. Particularly useful when doing wing ribs which I didn't show.
Is it the same if you want to copy plan parts, to styrene sheet. As I have a plan for a Do 335 that is in 1/24 scale and I want to make one static in plastic. Thanks
@@Capgains7777 Also Where would I get the plans for this printed. I looked into maybe poster printing it and taping the pages together But it would be almost 75 pages. Will Staples print a PDF of the plans. Or will they not because of copy right infringement.
The ACAD version plans are to scale, so what they print should need no modifications. You can confirm by having them give the length of the print area... The wing page is huge... no mistaking the size.
I like to recreate each piece in a cad file. Most pieces can be drawn much quicker than these methods. Only have to do it once, then you can put away the plans as an old relic, then laser cut every piece to your hearts desire.
I think bought that one in 2010ish. It is the original canvas with grommets for ventilation. I loved the whole Tilley built for sailing story. You are correct, the newer versions seem to be made with lighter weight materials. I have been trying other brands like Shelta whichbis more of a sun hat for people that want a baseball hat firm bill out front. They work well too and pretty well built.
DO NOT print the articles' first to pages unless you have the printer ink to kill. Holy COW, my printer actually slowed down and audibly started to make a chugging sound as it struggled to print the (almost) solid black 2 front pages. Need to reverse that image next time!
The balsa for this build came from National Balsa. Ive had pretty good luck with them in the past, and no complaints on this run. I will admit that the price of balsa has gone crazy in the last few years. There are also problems with availability as well. Evidently balsa is the inside structure on those 150 foot long blades on wind generators you see popping up everywhere.
onion skin paper or tracing paper ... and trace out the template ... as you are supposed to do ... that way you save the mater plan and use child plans or tracings to do templates ... it is called drafting after all ;)
There is no "supposed to do", merely different techniques used and preferred by different people. What you like, others may not. What others like, you may not. At the end of the day, as long as everyone enjoys their hobby, nothing else matters. It is called a hobby, after all, and is meant to be enjoyed in any way you like.
Hi Greg. If you are looking for the plans for the Ryan’s Rebel there are a few links in the description of the video. One is Aerofred.com you can get the pdf of the files there for free. I think you need to register on the site, also free. They have a massive catalog of plans you can peruse as well.
It's nice too see someone besides me still builds... almost a lost art..
I build also and you are right since ARFs no one does anymore. "Lost art" I fly nitro it's awesome the sound the smells love nitro!
Trace patterns onto clear sheet (transparencies), cut out and trace onto cabinet laminate, then cut out. You now have a template that will stand up to handling and can be stored and used repeatedly. Put all templates for the plane together and store. They can be pulled out at any time to cut more pieces for another plane or for repairs. You can actually have a few copies of the plans made, cut duplicates of everything as you go, when you're done you will have several complete kits, sell the extras and pay for the one you keep and build. Just options.
Love this brother! Thank you and keep it up please! You're awesome and funny
Many many companies are making kits...but its much more fun and cheaper to do it yourself, the funnest thing in the world for me is flying something you completely 100% designed and built from scratch.
Thanks for these very useful videos. You answered a ton of questions I’ve had and given tons of tips. Keep making more videos please! 👍👍
Glad you like my videos. I am working on several right now.
For simple formers, it’s easier to measure up and redraw on the wood directly, no need to trace or use any other medium.
I use a material called SeeTemp
Kind of like transparent thin plastic that cuts after you score it with a blade. Bend and comes apart easily and you have a rigid template.
Thanks for the tips (some new, some old). I'm starting again with this wonderful hobby ... I like your posts.
Greetings from Slovenia
Glad to have you on board... I very much like how building and flying model airplanes is truely international. Glad to hear you are getting back to the building board.
Carbon paper works the best for me. Lay the wood and the carbon paper underneath the plants. And then trace the plans with a ballpoint pen. Then I noticed that you did it anyway. That is always been the best way for me
Place tracing paper over the plan when using the carbon paper technique, hold in place with painter tape. That way your plan is even more protected should you wish to keep using the same plan or pass along to a friend.
I just get a second plan, the first is to cut up and use as templates, the other is to build from. I glue the one I use for templates to some styrene sheet to try and save them for the inevitable repairs :(
Hi there. It's not just your mom who has subscribed I have to. Love your approach and presentation of your video. Stay safe. Terry
New subsciber Dan. Just a note on the formers. If your looking to save on balsa, not just you but others, your smaller former looks like it could fit in the 2nd bigger former to the right.
It's best to make copies of the plans parts. Keeping original plans in TACT.
I use a sewing pin (with nylon bobble on the top to be kinder on the fingers) instead of an Awl as it leaves less of a hole in the plans! Worked good for me for 40 years.
That's a great idea.
Push pins used on maps already have the plastic bobble on them!
@@sotm2 sewing pins are thinner and less likely to split the wood than thicker map or notice board pins!
@@simonbaxter8001 Also more like to pierce your fingers. I've used map pins since 1976 and have NEVER split any balsa nor have I injured a finger with a needle.
Hi from Australia. If the plan is printed with toner ink you can place the drawing face down place the wood under the part to be copied and use an iron on the back of the plan and it will print it on to the wood 😁😁
Someone else mentioned that too. I'll have to give it a try on my next scratchbuild
good job kokodi
one way i make my templates is... i cut the template i get the wood ready. i use blue 3m tape i put it on the wood then i glue the template on the tape. let it dry cut the wood and peel the blue tape off...
Didn't talk about vellum paper. That's what I used. Lay it over the plans and you can see through it so you can copy the former onto it. Particularly useful when doing wing ribs which I didn't show.
Thank you for this video sir, very informative!
You can order the balsa stripper from flight test for $14.00 including shipping
Wing ribs would be a challenge - curved edges n all.. how do you guys do them?
Scroll saw, or a bandsaw with a 1/8 inch blade.
Is it the same if you want to copy plan parts, to styrene sheet. As I have a plan for a Do 335 that is in 1/24 scale and I want to make one static in plastic. Thanks
Dan, gettting back to r/c this winter.I have a Carl Goldberg eagle #1 , damage crack on fuselage( how about a session on common repairs)
Could you send me some pics of your damage? dangellner@gmail.com
I'd like to see what you are up against.
@@Capgains7777 Wow I have a Goldberg Eagle 2. I am swaping it to electric and need to replace the monocote on the wing because of hanger rash.
@@Capgains7777 Also Where would I get the plans for this printed. I looked into maybe poster printing it and taping the pages together But it would be almost 75 pages. Will Staples print a PDF of the plans. Or will they not because of copy right infringement.
Steve, I went to Staples, they have the large profile printer that can print the big sheets. They didnt say anything about copyright issues.
@@Capgains7777 Wow. OK thank you. I have a staples conveniently 1/2 mile away. Lol
New subscriber 😊
Yep they still make them, Hobby King has them, I just order one ;)
Dan, love the technique, but what do you recommend for curved parts?
Hi Dan.
How did you cut the notches out of the rib for the spars?
Thanks an advance.
Steve
If just seen Episode 9 which has answered this question
Try the old carbon paper method - used it for years!!
one more sub! \o/ loved the video!
Welcome aboard!!!!
@@Capgains7777 Thank you! watching the rest of the build right now! I'm on ep 10 :D
PS I am new to this, is there a specific size I need to ask STAPLES or do I hand them the flashdrive and say "Blueprint these, please."?
The ACAD version plans are to scale, so what they print should need no modifications. You can confirm by having them give the length of the print area... The wing page is huge... no mistaking the size.
I like to recreate each piece in a cad file. Most pieces can be drawn much quicker than these methods. Only have to do it once, then you can put away the plans as an old relic, then laser cut every piece to your hearts desire.
That's awesome... I have never been blessed with the CAD arts, and by no means ever had the means for a lazer cutter... I bow to you.
What do you use to laser cut the parts?
I was considering the Glowforge.
You can order the balsa stripper from flight test online for 14.00 that included shipping
So make two sets of plans?
Is that a Tilley on the wall?
Why yes it is. That's one of my flying hats. I love my flying hats. Protect those thinning tops and ears.
@@Capgains7777 One of the older ones, much better. The new ones are not quite the same.
I think bought that one in 2010ish. It is the original canvas with grommets for ventilation. I loved the whole Tilley built for sailing story. You are correct, the newer versions seem to be made with lighter weight materials. I have been trying other brands like Shelta whichbis more of a sun hat for people that want a baseball hat firm bill out front. They work well too and pretty well built.
DO NOT print the articles' first to pages unless you have the printer ink to kill. Holy COW, my printer actually slowed down and audibly started to make a chugging sound as it struggled to print the (almost) solid black 2 front pages. Need to reverse that image next time!
Where did you buy the balsa?
The balsa for this build came from National Balsa. Ive had pretty good luck with them in the past, and no complaints on this run. I will admit that the price of balsa has gone crazy in the last few years. There are also problems with availability as well. Evidently balsa is the inside structure on those 150 foot long blades on wind generators you see popping up everywhere.
@@Capgains7777 - ...that they burn or bury when their life cycle is complete?! Renewable... (thanks, I'll check them out)
Mr Woodwood would if he could, but he cant, so he won't, plus he don't want too.
That method can cause parts to be out of SQUARE.
onion skin paper or tracing paper ... and trace out the template ... as you are supposed to do ... that way you save the mater plan and use child plans or tracings to do templates ... it is called drafting after all ;)
There is no "supposed to do", merely different techniques used and preferred by different people. What you like, others may not. What others like, you may not. At the end of the day, as long as everyone enjoys their hobby, nothing else matters. It is called a hobby, after all, and is meant to be enjoyed in any way you like.
where do u get plans
Hi Greg. If you are looking for the plans for the Ryan’s Rebel there are a few links in the description of the video. One is Aerofred.com you can get the pdf of the files there for free. I think you need to register on the site, also free. They have a massive catalog of plans you can peruse as well.