I think the buggest upgrade to the Ender 3 v2 is Klipper firmware. I originally tried it on as i wasn't able to use Marlin's linear advance with stock mainboard (as steppers are wired in legacy mode) but Klipper had no problem implementing pressure advance. Then discovered input shaper, macros and so much more goodies. Only disadvantage is u need an SBC (RPi or similar)
I cut a piece of sponge to size for the filament guide hole and then I poked a hole thru that with the filament so that it minimizes the amount of dust that gets to the extruder
I can’t believe I watched this video yesterday and my Ender 3 V2 plastic extruder completely failed today in the extract scenario you described. Have ordered and all metal replacement. Thank you for the information. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
I run the Sprite direct drive extruder on both of my V2s after I got my S1 I fell in love with the Sprite I got the Sprite extruder on my V2 extender but it's got the stock hot end below it
The only (in my opinion) reason to bother with a filament guide at all is to keep the filament coming off the roll from rubbing up against the (greasy) Z-screw and getting contaminated.The BLTouch (or equivalent "auto-leveling system" is something that should be on every 3D printer - Once it is, the springs/bushings pretty well cease to have any meaning. Octoprint on a Pi3B+ powered by tapping the printer's PS and feeding it through a buck converter is the bee's knees, as they used to say back in the day, and a dual Z-screw (either belted, or with its own stepper) makes the rig pretty near bulletproof. The metal extruder (whether double or single gear) is something that *EVERY* E3V2 *WILL* end up wearing eventually - if the plastic arm doesn't break (it will, sooner or later) then the threads for the "output" side fitting will split - There's no "if" they'll fail - the question is "Exactly when will it happen, and which failure will it be that forces a replacement purchase - the arm snapping, or the threads splitting?" For me, that was the threads splitting about 2 months after purchase, and it was replaced with the $10 red one from Amazon - which has run flawlessly for 2+ years since.
Quite strange to me that people are still using Jyers UI. It hasn't gotten any updated in about what almost 2 years? there are better firmwares out there. Professional Firmware for example which aren't abandoned projects.
The rest of the info is still very relevant, but jyers firmware has been outstripped by other open source options such as mrirscoc. There are great videos that take you step by step on replacing the stock firmware.
Correct, But I love my revo. If I didn't have the revo on this, then once I had a Bambu I prob wouldn't use this printer (or my other 3 3v2's) anymore. Easily swapping between 0.15 and 0.8 nozzles is fantastic.
I changed my original springs on my ender to those yellow ones everyone recommends but still struggle with a good bed mesh. Even with the BL touch I get more failed prints than I do successful ones. Would you say the bushings are better?
I prefer the bushings. I do tighten it down pretty tight so the bushings are kind of tensioned as much as possible. And I make sure that the bed is extremely level. I would highly recommending another software such as jyers firmware that will do a better job taking the imperfect bed and printing on it. Also with Jyers you get a visual of the levelness of the bed so then you could take some foil tape and add spots underneath the glass to force it to be more level.
Oh! I printed your drawer a while back, excellent use of space. Thanks for sharing
I think the buggest upgrade to the Ender 3 v2 is Klipper firmware. I originally tried it on as i wasn't able to use Marlin's linear advance with stock mainboard (as steppers are wired in legacy mode) but Klipper had no problem implementing pressure advance. Then discovered input shaper, macros and so much more goodies. Only disadvantage is u need an SBC (RPi or similar)
I cut a piece of sponge to size for the filament guide hole and then I poked a hole thru that with the filament so that it minimizes the amount of dust that gets to the extruder
I can’t believe I watched this video yesterday and my Ender 3 V2 plastic extruder completely failed today in the extract scenario you described. Have ordered and all metal replacement. Thank you for the information. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
I was just given an unopened V2 someone had in 2025 appreciate the hell out of this video.
That drawer is sick.
Talking about the in tube one? I don't know why I created it but I'm glad I did haha.
man i think you would absolutely fall in love with klipper firmware :P
I run the Sprite direct drive extruder on both of my V2s after I got my S1 I fell in love with the Sprite I got the Sprite extruder on my V2 extender but it's got the stock hot end below it
The only (in my opinion) reason to bother with a filament guide at all is to keep the filament coming off the roll from rubbing up against the (greasy) Z-screw and getting contaminated.The BLTouch (or equivalent "auto-leveling system" is something that should be on every 3D printer - Once it is, the springs/bushings pretty well cease to have any meaning. Octoprint on a Pi3B+ powered by tapping the printer's PS and feeding it through a buck converter is the bee's knees, as they used to say back in the day, and a dual Z-screw (either belted, or with its own stepper) makes the rig pretty near bulletproof. The metal extruder (whether double or single gear) is something that *EVERY* E3V2 *WILL* end up wearing eventually - if the plastic arm doesn't break (it will, sooner or later) then the threads for the "output" side fitting will split - There's no "if" they'll fail - the question is "Exactly when will it happen, and which failure will it be that forces a replacement purchase - the arm snapping, or the threads splitting?" For me, that was the threads splitting about 2 months after purchase, and it was replaced with the $10 red one from Amazon - which has run flawlessly for 2+ years since.
Acme screw should be lubed with dry silicone not grease
Really good video! Thanks for sharing , greetz from Argentina
The Dubble extruder can help with prints but with smaller nonstock steppers no difference on stock steppers.
Quite strange to me that people are still using Jyers UI. It hasn't gotten any updated in about what almost 2 years? there are better firmwares out there. Professional Firmware for example which aren't abandoned projects.
I'm using MriscoC firmware now. It's great so far.
It works great, why change it ?
Name one thing that is there in MriscoCs compared to jyers.
Mriscoc firmware is far superior btw
When changing the revo nozzle, do we have to do the zoffset again?
I feel I have to check the live z offset every time I change the nozzle. I feel like every time I push or pull a lot on the printer it needs checking.
Can you please tell me where I could find the firmware?
The rest of the info is still very relevant, but jyers firmware has been outstripped by other open source options such as mrirscoc. There are great videos that take you step by step on replacing the stock firmware.
Jyers is a dead firmware mrirscoc pro is an enhanced jyers project and currently managed
Where did you find the bl touch cover?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5214405
whats the firmware? i couldn't understand the source
In the video I describe Jyers, But now there are a ton more and better firmwares you can install.
thats a revo.. revo hotends are expensive.. you can say that you have there at least 100$ hotend..
Correct, But I love my revo. If I didn't have the revo on this, then once I had a Bambu I prob wouldn't use this printer (or my other 3 3v2's) anymore. Easily swapping between 0.15 and 0.8 nozzles is fantastic.
I changed my original springs on my ender to those yellow ones everyone recommends but still struggle with a good bed mesh. Even with the BL touch I get more failed prints than I do successful ones. Would you say the bushings are better?
I prefer the bushings. I do tighten it down pretty tight so the bushings are kind of tensioned as much as possible. And I make sure that the bed is extremely level. I would highly recommending another software such as jyers firmware that will do a better job taking the imperfect bed and printing on it. Also with Jyers you get a visual of the levelness of the bed so then you could take some foil tape and add spots underneath the glass to force it to be more level.
Brian Vines has a great video on installing jyers. th-cam.com/video/o1zXYwgIPLY/w-d-xo.html
Using tape to level, from teaching tech th-cam.com/users/shortswIgjtct0GxE?feature=share
@@Kabliga I actually already use Jyers haha! Might try that tape method!
Use the good old glue stick.
Great Video, FW?
Thanks, I'm embarrassed to say I cant answer the question because I don't know what FW means...
th-cam.com/video/o1zXYwgIPLY/w-d-xo.html
I think he means Firmware, and it's the Jyers (Marlin fork)