as a landscaper I did this to the tandem work trailer and shocked the workers as my dad had never done them also did the brakes now that once hard to push hard to move can move with barely any effort so yep good advice and yes am seriously looking at a cap York trip with one of your campers
First...good to see you NOT using gloves. That’s the traditional method. Second...I drop the bearing race in a zip lock bag and drop it in the ice bag, or Waeco. Get it nice and cold, and they pretty much drop in, especially if the drum has been in the sun.
@@HORTOJMactually using the old ones can be a nightmare if you haven’t ground them down so they don’t get stuck when hammering the new ones in. So using the old ones on the side of the track without grinding them down first is not a good idea.
I certainly wouldn’t use a socket to drive the new cone in. You can’t afford to damage the face that the needles roll against. The old cone is the best available thing to use and just make sure you use it the right way around so it leaves an exposed lip and you can then just tap it back out after the new cone is all the way home. They’ll usually only go into the hub by a couple of millimeters anyway. Easy enough to tap out. I would also strongly suggest you use a pin punch or better still a brass drift to drive things in. You certainly won’t drive a snug new cone all the way home hitting it in with a plastic handled screwdriver. It’ll more likely split the handle of your screw driver open and then you won’t even have a screw driver anymore. You could certainly do it with a through metal shaft screw driver though. You should also find that there’s two small scallops inside the hub you should see once you clear all the old grease away. This is designed to give access to the back of the old cone allowing you to knock the cone out more easily. I like to tap one side of the cone then the other so it doesn’t wedge itself on the way out. I love the pre greasing idea. That would make a big difference if you had to do the job on the side of the road or in a dusty or difficult environment. Another suggestion is to put a film of grease around the running lip of the seal and on the hub where the seal runs so it’s not running dry on initial assembly which could cause premature wear and potentially let water and contaminates into the hub later on.
Not sure this is really showing how to change a bearing as there was no changing any bearings! Just how to put new bearings in a new hub. Have you done a video showing how to remove bearings if you had to on the side of the road?
This a straight forward video however I have just tried to take off my wheel bearings on a 19' model and one side came off easily. The other side is a nightmare and was gouging the axle as it came off !!😮 it didn't slide off, I had to put the wheel back on without the castle nut and kick it off from underneath! I've filed and linished the rough bits but now still can't get the old bearing or the new bearing back on. It's still binding. It's as though the axle is just too big by .5mm -1mm. Wtf!
I wouldn’t put bearing buddies on a hub with drum brakes because if to much pressure is pumped in can make grease squeeze past the seal onto the brakes making them fail disk brakes are less prone to this
So good to see someone show the correct way to pack bearings. :-)
as a landscaper I did this to the tandem work trailer and shocked the workers as my dad had never done them also did the brakes now that once hard to push hard to move can move with barely any effort so yep good advice and yes am seriously looking at a cap York trip with one of your campers
First...good to see you NOT using gloves. That’s the traditional method.
Second...I drop the bearing race in a zip lock bag and drop it in the ice bag, or Waeco. Get it nice and cold, and they pretty much drop in, especially if the drum has been in the sun.
That's a great tip with the ice Ronan, cheers.
Curious why not to use gloves, does using gloves diminish the quality of grease application?
good tips, thanks for sharing.
Yes a lot easier to do at home than on the side of the road.
You can use the old cones to tap the new cones in.
Absolutely, how many people on the planet would own an 80mm socket??? Just use the old cone, not really a masterclass.
Suppose if you're reusing/repacking the existing ones though you don't have old ones. Time to fork out for that 50mm socket then!
@@HORTOJMactually using the old ones can be a nightmare if you haven’t ground them down so they don’t get stuck when hammering the new ones in. So using the old ones on the side of the track without grinding them down first is not a good idea.
I certainly wouldn’t use a socket to drive the new cone in. You can’t afford to damage the face that the needles roll against. The old cone is the best available thing to use and just make sure you use it the right way around so it leaves an exposed lip and you can then just tap it back out after the new cone is all the way home. They’ll usually only go into the hub by a couple of millimeters anyway. Easy enough to tap out. I would also strongly suggest you use a pin punch or better still a brass drift to drive things in. You certainly won’t drive a snug new cone all the way home hitting it in with a plastic handled screwdriver. It’ll more likely split the handle of your screw driver open and then you won’t even have a screw driver anymore. You could certainly do it with a through metal shaft screw driver though. You should also find that there’s two small scallops inside the hub you should see once you clear all the old grease away. This is designed to give access to the back of the old cone allowing you to knock the cone out more easily. I like to tap one side of the cone then the other so it doesn’t wedge itself on the way out. I love the pre greasing idea. That would make a big difference if you had to do the job on the side of the road or in a dusty or difficult environment. Another suggestion is to put a film of grease around the running lip of the seal and on the hub where the seal runs so it’s not running dry on initial assembly which could cause premature wear and potentially let water and contaminates into the hub later on.
What size socket did you use
Getting prepared to do mine
Cheers
What size bearings are on the caravans? And what size was the socket you used to tap the cone in?
Pre pack bearings and then vacuum seal rather than zip lock
Not sure this is really showing how to change a bearing as there was no changing any bearings! Just how to put new bearings in a new hub. Have you done a video showing how to remove bearings if you had to on the side of the road?
Yeah... Do you happen to know what size Allen key you need to get the hub cover off?? :*(
This a straight forward video however I have just tried to take off my wheel bearings on a 19' model and one side came off easily. The other side is a nightmare and was gouging the axle as it came off !!😮 it didn't slide off, I had to put the wheel back on without the castle nut and kick it off from underneath!
I've filed and linished the rough bits but now still can't get the old bearing or the new bearing back on. It's still binding. It's as though the axle is just too big by .5mm -1mm.
Wtf!
@@scottlardner9074oh great. I have to do this tomorrow. Hopefully it goes smoothly...
Hate to be pedantic but when you refer to the cone, aren't you actually hitting in the cup?
All mdc campers the same bearing size?
Do they not make bearing buddies for caravans that will fit MDC caravans?
I wouldn’t put bearing buddies on a hub with drum brakes because if to much pressure is pumped in can make grease squeeze past the seal onto the brakes making them fail disk brakes are less prone to this
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