I don't know why watching him grease is so enjoyable but it really is. I enjoy over-greasing my own equipment daily that probably helps. Nothing better then a freshly over- greased tractor.
You will never hurt it by greasing it that's for sure I remember back in the 80s we had those 361 gas Motors and some little dump trucks and sometimes they would use a quart or two of oil a day
Hey Jacob looks like u having busy day maintenance on farm equipment never ending u do great job keeping it going looks like weather working with u snow here melted of I hope we have no more stay safe great video from Kentucky
Just a hunch, but as far as your radiator overflow is concerned, as the engine cools, it should create a vacuum in the system which in turn "should" suck any fluid out of the overflow. If it doesn't, the 2 possible things. 1) leak in the coolant system (might be sucking air depending on location) 2) Radiator cap might be bad. Maybe not correct and my old age has damaged too many brain cells, but worth a shot looking at. Hope things are going good for you this year!
Nice video. I wouldn't run that synthetic blend especially since you're burning oil already. Probably 10w-30 dino, or even 15w-40 with the burning issues. We run 15w-40 in a lot of our antique gas tractors as its what we have bulk on hand and there haven't been any issues.
@@boehmfarm4276 Yes because they're DESIGNED around the oil... I had a problem with my 02 F-150 4.6 that recurred from time to time, took the farm mechanic in Indiana to figure it out. Turns out it was broken timing chain guides. Got to reading up on the problem and it just really illustrates the problems with modern engineering. When Ford built the Triton engines (4.6 and 5.4), which are overhead cam engines with about 8 feet or so of timing chain, they started off running them on 10w30 like everything else had been. What they found was, that the 10w30 was too slow to flow through the engine galleries to where it needed to be, including the timing chain tensioner (hydraulic tensioner) which uses oil pressure to tighten the chain. What would happen was, the engine would fire and at idle the timing chain would whip back and forth violently a few times until the oil pressure came up and snugged up the chain tight. The stupid PLASTIC timing chain guides would snap, and then the chains would flop or whip back and forth at speed, which basically made the computer cross its eyes and sh!t itself... Because the chain was whipping at speed, which changed the timing on the camshaft, the computer was constantly trying to outguess the chain whip, and so it was constantly tweaking the cam phasers that adjust the cam timing to the engine RPMs. Because it was constantly "off" because of the chain whip, the computer would end up setting a "lean on bank 1" and "rich on bank 2" codes... which is what nobody could figure out, as "lean on bank 1" is typically a vacuum leak (cracked or collapse PCV elbow behind the intake usually, or a cracked or broken vacuum fitting or hose), and "rich on bank 2" is typically a fuel trim problem or O2 sensor issue. The two together is a timing chain guide problem. Ford "fixed" it by switching to 5w20 semi-synthetic oil, which solved the problem by allowing oil from the pump to flow through the galleries faster to the chain tensioner and tightening the timing chain BEFORE it could whip and futz up the plastic chain guides... WHY they didn't ditch the stupid PLASTIC GARBAGE and put metal chain guides, or even metal-backed plastic guides, is beyond me... cheap parts cheap to make and if it causes a problem, well, there's a grand and a half of work for the shop to do, so who cares I guess... Engineered in obsolescence. Anyway, my mechanic guy said he was confident that's what it was but couldn't promise til they pulled the front of the engine off... sure enough, the one timing chain guide was snapped off at the bottom and laying against the cover to one side, though the upper end was intact, and the other one had broken into THREE PIECES and was all laying in a heap at the bottom of the timing cover next to the crank sprocket. He put metal guides in and a new timing chain and water pump (since I still had the original water pump with about 250,000 miles on it at the time) and presto, she's fixed. I bought the truck in 04 with 29,000 miles on it and ran it on Mobil 1 full synthetic to about 200,000 miles when I started burning about a quart or so of the stuff between 5,000 mile changes. SO I switched back to the 5w20 semi-synthetic and have been running with that ever since, but now I'm going through more oil than I'd like between changes, so probably just go dino oil next... at 350,000 she's getting tired. SO yeah, running diesel oil in some of these modern engines made for this thin watery oil, when they're DESIGNED for the thin watery oil, is just asking to blow something up and won't end well. Later! OL J R :)
I agree with some of the others, run 15w-40, also the quality of oil seems to make a difference, our old tractors will burn wal-mart oil twice as fast as Valvoline, believe it or not
You should have bought that tr 70 with the 3208 in it and I know being a diesel mechanic the injector diesel nozzle is about 90 dollars and I would have gone that route instead but I have a great repore. With cat and iam also a die-hard international Navistar man to and I have been a mechanic since 99 and that's what some of the people say but do some research to
If you ever think you equipment uses oil on my small farm my tractor that I use everyday is a 1954 Massey Harris and it leaks a huge amount of oil because it is missing a majority of the oil pain gasket os gone. Lol my grandfather isn't going to fix it until it needs another clutch well that's been 20 years and the clutch is still great. The amount he spends on oil I try convince him to let me change it but he is a stubborn old man and doesn't want to only do 1 fix when it could be more at the same time. On the bright side I haven't had to change the oil in over 20 years lol it's been the most reliable piece if equipment I have ever used not just at my farm but even for work Like in construction and forestry. It probably has well over 50,000 hours and the bottom end has never been opened and only clutches for the transmission. We added 2 hydraulic pumps and a full hydraulic loader, and power steering. It always starts even in -30°f plus winter. It's been flipped twice and almost pulled in half one time it got stuck and sank in a swamp. It took a allis 190 and a international 666 and a bigger 4x4 Belarus to get it out! It was absurd that it took so much horsepower with traction to get it out and we had to dig the front out too.
Go around it with Permatex gasket silicone squirt it in where the gasket is missing it would at least slow most of the leaks down if it didn't outright stop them. Later! OL J R :)
@@boehmfarm4276 Modern trucks are DESIGNED for thinner oils, so yeah you gotta stick with what it was DESIGNED to run on, or you'll have problems. OL J R :)
@@boehmfarm4276 Old gas engines would run fine on any number of different oil viscosities, and when they were worn that window widened even further. Just this modern crap that is SO finicky about what oil you run in it! Later! OL J R :)
On walker combines the cylinder busts everything up and then dumps it all on the walkers. The walkers shake and work the crop up through with grain falling down on the sieves the whole way. The walkers eventually walk the (hopefully by that point) trash to the back and out it goes. That's why there is two separate ways trash comes out on them. The main flow of trash is what comes off the walkers. The second flow is what is blowed off when the grain falls through the sieves. That's the way it was explained to me anyhow.
Boehm Farm True. Been my experience with corn and beans rotary combines like yours are the way to go. I grew up with a combine similar to yours and it brings me back watching you work on it haha. It was my neighbor's TR85. It has the Cat V8 though. It's about junk now or at least I assume. He quit using it 6 or 7 years ago and it has sit outside since. A lot of fun memories of that machine though haha.
Boehm Farm Same here but there isn't anything I can do about it unfortunately. It's his combine to do as he wishes I guess. He doesn't seem interested in selling it either. I don't think it's worth much more than scrap now anyhow. That engine would be the only thing good in it.
Not quite correct. Gleaners work that way, the old ones anyway, with the threshing cylinder and a SOLID concave down in the feederhouse right behind the feed drum where the header attaches. They threshed everything right in the feederhouse and then spit it all out the back-- grain, stalks, trash, chaff, and all TOGETHER. It got thrown onto the "raddle chain" that moved it all back up into the combine and tossed it onto the straw walkers, which are much longer in a Gleaner. Some sifting of the grain and straw occurred on the raddle chain, so it was at least "pre-sorted" if still together. Most of the loose threshed grain shook out very quickly from the walkers right at the front and went right down on the grain pan, and as the rest of the straw got tossed and fluffed the rest came out further back. MOST OTHER combines used an OPEN concave right at the front of the main combine body BEHIND the feederhouse. Open concaves allow the threshed grain, about 90% of it, to fall through the concave itself directly into either those silly auger beds Deere and CIH use, or better combines use a shaking grain pan, which pre-sifts the chaff and grain before it gets to the cleaning shoe, where the silly augers mix it all up into a mess that the rake and chaffer and sieve and fan have to sort out. Since grain pans pre-sort it, with the lighter chaff on top, as the grain drops off the pan through the rake and onto the chaffer, the VAST majority of the chaff blows right on our the back right away, and grain can rain down through the front of the chaffer onto the sieve, through the sieve and into the clean grain elevator auger. That's why NH and Claas and stuff clean SO much better than the auger-bed machines like Deere and CIH. Anyway, since most of the grain is separated out at the concave, the shorter walkers have NO problem separating out the remaining 10% of the grain that is tossed out of the cylinder and concave by the beater onto the front of the straw walkers. If it was threshed loose, it falls right through as the straw is tossed around on its way out the back. BTW rotary machines have "2 waste streams" as well-- it's just that the rotor outlet beater and straw chopper/spreader is much closer to the cleaning shoe chaff discharge or spinner than on straw walker machines... so rotaries look more like one stream. Later! OL J R :)
I would recommend a pistol grip gun for the hose. I keep a grease gun with a lever but it has the hard pipe on it. To hard to hold the hose and run the lever. You mention lots of down time waiting for parts. Is there no good new holland dealers near you?
Yeah, I think that was about the carburetor rebuild; that took some time because we went through a dealer who sent it to a carb shop. The carb had extreme pitting in the bowl and required a couple tries at patching. The cleaning and patching process could only be done once each day and then they would test the carb. We usually haven't had to wait for shipping on too many parts, just call around to a few dealers to see who has something in stock. Even if they are good dealers, Fiat has done their best to mess everything up.
Boehm Farm say no more. We are John Deere people on this farm. seems all brands are in the same boat. Good luck. I watch most of your videos, I’m unclear on what your harvest status is at this time?
We are in southern Ohio. This video is from December 21. What do you grow? I went for a road trip yesterday and saw a couple fields of corn still standing and they were farther north.
The diesel TR we have has the Ford 6 cylinder diesel. It is getting a head gasket at the moment. We sorta put off coaxing it home from the field. We should have video of the repair as soon as the gasket set comes in.
Hey, I just bought the second TR70 this fall. I bought two combines last year and sold one(gleaner K) I think I'm moving up the ladder pretty fast. Yes, I am always looking newer. Sometimes location and price don't work out. I'd be happy with a TR 86.
I dont want to step on your toes and tell you how to run your farm but you might find it easier to ask for donations / Amazon gift list or patreon if you where able to do some of the following set out some structure to what you where doing ( like a business plan) for each operation and do your own breakdown of equipment needed for each to do it efficiently in a time and cost effective manner. Corn Beans (keep the two separate because they are 2 different commodities) Hay Chicken - Meat Chicken - Eggs Veggies Flowers Plant Sales General Farm Equipment and storage / green houses/ Silo's You tube, filming / computer / video editing equipment (maybe a drone) (you could be earning some youtube royalties) Corn and beans have the highest capital expenditure, they are also commodities everything related to this is expensive, free donated equipment might cost more to fix in time and materials and shipping than it is to just buy it locally. At the moment its hard to tell if you have a detailed plan of what your doing or even expecting to make money wise with a breakdown of time and labour for each activity. Taking You tube as a potential revenue stream and a means to advertise your farms products and services that also might result in more videos and subscribers, it might work well to find products that relate to some of the above activities that have a low cost to purchase that you can do reviews on or use to improve your business. that people might buy you on your Amazon wish list. i.e buy some more calf bottle feeders / chicken water systems, nipples or the bottle waters and do a review, or in this case the pistol grip grease gun and or lock n lube. Possible merchandise sales from etsy (hoodies coffee mugs, beanies) with profits going to help buy new (to you) equipment. As a general Fund-raiser You might clean the farm up and do an open day and charge $10-$20 a person sell some shirts and give tours, maybe have some displays of antique machinery running. put some seats on the hay wagon, and drive them around, through on a big BBQ for lunch (included in ticket) have some compitions, Gum boat throwing, cow pat bingo, Example of a Specific Project. Grain/bean Dryer Detailed List of equipment required (people might have some stuff not being used that's on the list) Outline work required Detailed list of works Detailed breakdown of costs. How much in donations your looking for. (it could be 1/3 or 1/2 the cost) Once you have the figure outlined and a detailed list of the equipment and labour required you can progress to fund raising and goal setting and asking for help to accomplish the goal, - Asking people to buy merch (hoodies beanies) with profits going towards the project - Asking people to buy a pig (hopefully boehm farm smoked and cured bacon at some point)/ cattle beast / chickens / eggs to help fund raise for the project. - Asking people to buy or click on links to Amazon referral links to common good quality everyday use products you review, and say profits will go towards x project and to help make more videos. The TLDR, People dont like to arbitrarily give money, if you can tell people what your looking to do (a project) and outline your goals and the equipment and can show your plan and detail your progress to the plan you will have better luck and find it easier to get help for the next project, (donations of equipment needed or money / labour help that's required) , Donors also like to be kept up-to-date with projects and updated with how things worked out, so "free money" might not be so free. Asking for donations, Amazon referrals, merch to help keep making videos might be the easiest way to get viewer buy in particularly if it might result in more videos.
Two words-- LOCK-N-LOAD... got one of those things I LOVE it! Some guys gripe they can't get into really tight spaces with it, and that can be true since it's bigger around, but here's a hack around that which works. When you take your old 3 or 4 jaw coupler off your grease hose to install the lock-n-load, thread a grease zerk into the end of the coupler where the hose was. Now you have a handy adapter to get into those tight spots where the LNL couldn't go. The rest of the time you run with the LNL for the other 95% of fittings (or more as some machines don't have ANY fittings too tight for a LNL) and have th convenience of it locking onto the fitting and not spewing grease everywhere or popping loose, and a free hand to run a lever gun. Works like a champ! OL J R :)
I don't know why watching him grease is so enjoyable but it really is. I enjoy over-greasing my own equipment daily that probably helps. Nothing better then a freshly over- greased tractor.
"Yeah...buddy!" Good video and the combine is still getting the job done.
haha Thank you.
Really enjoyed the video. Thanks :-)
All in a day! It may use oil, but its getting the job done! Just think, you dont have to change the oil as often this way, just replace the filter!!!
Northern Wisconsin Farming I was thinking the same cuz!!!! Lol
Seems like good logic, just like how auto manufacturers are extending oil change intervals by increasing the oil pan size for more oil.
Boehm Farm yep!
You will never hurt it by greasing it that's for sure I remember back in the 80s we had those 361 gas Motors and some little dump trucks and sometimes they would use a quart or two of oil a day
I am glad I'm not the only one. If it would stay running fine, dumping in oil daily doesn't bother me.
Hey Jacob looks like u having busy day maintenance on farm equipment never ending u do great job keeping it going looks like weather working with u snow here melted of I hope we have no more stay safe great video from Kentucky
I think we are in for another blast of real winter at the start of February.
Just a hunch, but as far as your radiator overflow is concerned, as the engine cools, it should create a vacuum in the system which in turn "should" suck any fluid out of the overflow.
If it doesn't, the 2 possible things.
1) leak in the coolant system (might be sucking air depending on location)
2) Radiator cap might be bad.
Maybe not correct and my old age has damaged too many brain cells, but worth a shot looking at.
Hope things are going good for you this year!
I wouldn't be surprised if the rubber hose to the overflow has a small hole. Depending on the near future, I am looking at an engine swap for it.
Great video Jacob. Best of all your still having fun.
Thank you.
Yea I understand the ladder hitting the cornstalks and that dreadful feeling of thinking it’s all rattling apart!
Nice video. I wouldn't run that synthetic blend especially since you're burning oil already. Probably 10w-30 dino, or even 15w-40 with the burning issues. We run 15w-40 in a lot of our antique gas tractors as its what we have bulk on hand and there haven't been any issues.
We have 15w40 for the tractors. I have heard stories about newer gas trucks that had diesel oil put in them; it doesn't end well.
Boehm Farm Good think your combine isn't a newer truck haha. It's not a 2017 that demands full synthetic 0w-20
@@boehmfarm4276 Yes because they're DESIGNED around the oil... I had a problem with my 02 F-150 4.6 that recurred from time to time, took the farm mechanic in Indiana to figure it out. Turns out it was broken timing chain guides. Got to reading up on the problem and it just really illustrates the problems with modern engineering.
When Ford built the Triton engines (4.6 and 5.4), which are overhead cam engines with about 8 feet or so of timing chain, they started off running them on 10w30 like everything else had been. What they found was, that the 10w30 was too slow to flow through the engine galleries to where it needed to be, including the timing chain tensioner (hydraulic tensioner) which uses oil pressure to tighten the chain. What would happen was, the engine would fire and at idle the timing chain would whip back and forth violently a few times until the oil pressure came up and snugged up the chain tight. The stupid PLASTIC timing chain guides would snap, and then the chains would flop or whip back and forth at speed, which basically made the computer cross its eyes and sh!t itself... Because the chain was whipping at speed, which changed the timing on the camshaft, the computer was constantly trying to outguess the chain whip, and so it was constantly tweaking the cam phasers that adjust the cam timing to the engine RPMs. Because it was constantly "off" because of the chain whip, the computer would end up setting a "lean on bank 1" and "rich on bank 2" codes... which is what nobody could figure out, as "lean on bank 1" is typically a vacuum leak (cracked or collapse PCV elbow behind the intake usually, or a cracked or broken vacuum fitting or hose), and "rich on bank 2" is typically a fuel trim problem or O2 sensor issue. The two together is a timing chain guide problem. Ford "fixed" it by switching to 5w20 semi-synthetic oil, which solved the problem by allowing oil from the pump to flow through the galleries faster to the chain tensioner and tightening the timing chain BEFORE it could whip and futz up the plastic chain guides... WHY they didn't ditch the stupid PLASTIC GARBAGE and put metal chain guides, or even metal-backed plastic guides, is beyond me... cheap parts cheap to make and if it causes a problem, well, there's a grand and a half of work for the shop to do, so who cares I guess... Engineered in obsolescence. Anyway, my mechanic guy said he was confident that's what it was but couldn't promise til they pulled the front of the engine off... sure enough, the one timing chain guide was snapped off at the bottom and laying against the cover to one side, though the upper end was intact, and the other one had broken into THREE PIECES and was all laying in a heap at the bottom of the timing cover next to the crank sprocket. He put metal guides in and a new timing chain and water pump (since I still had the original water pump with about 250,000 miles on it at the time) and presto, she's fixed. I bought the truck in 04 with 29,000 miles on it and ran it on Mobil 1 full synthetic to about 200,000 miles when I started burning about a quart or so of the stuff between 5,000 mile changes. SO I switched back to the 5w20 semi-synthetic and have been running with that ever since, but now I'm going through more oil than I'd like between changes, so probably just go dino oil next... at 350,000 she's getting tired.
SO yeah, running diesel oil in some of these modern engines made for this thin watery oil, when they're DESIGNED for the thin watery oil, is just asking to blow something up and won't end well. Later! OL J R :)
love the work you man very old equipment
Thank you
Wheat is a lot tougher to thresh. Double up on front of rotor to knock off the husk of the wheat.
I agree with some of the others, run 15w-40, also the quality of oil seems to make a difference, our old tractors will burn wal-mart oil twice as fast as Valvoline, believe it or not
We have that for the tractors. I may try it to see what happens.
You should have bought that tr 70 with the 3208 in it and I know being a diesel mechanic the injector diesel nozzle is about 90 dollars and I would have gone that route instead but I have a great repore. With cat and iam also a die-hard international Navistar man to and I have been a mechanic since 99 and that's what some of the people say but do some research to
add a starter button next to the motor
Our tr70 had the 3208 in it. Didn’t know they had a gas engine till you bought this one
I didn't know gas was on option until I saw this one for sale.
If you ever think you equipment uses oil on my small farm my tractor that I use everyday is a 1954 Massey Harris and it leaks a huge amount of oil because it is missing a majority of the oil pain gasket os gone. Lol my grandfather isn't going to fix it until it needs another clutch well that's been 20 years and the clutch is still great. The amount he spends on oil I try convince him to let me change it but he is a stubborn old man and doesn't want to only do 1 fix when it could be more at the same time. On the bright side I haven't had to change the oil in over 20 years lol it's been the most reliable piece if equipment I have ever used not just at my farm but even for work Like in construction and forestry. It probably has well over 50,000 hours and the bottom end has never been opened and only clutches for the transmission. We added 2 hydraulic pumps and a full hydraulic loader, and power steering. It always starts even in -30°f plus winter. It's been flipped twice and almost pulled in half one time it got stuck and sank in a swamp. It took a allis 190 and a international 666 and a bigger 4x4 Belarus to get it out! It was absurd that it took so much horsepower with traction to get it out and we had to dig the front out too.
Go around it with Permatex gasket silicone squirt it in where the gasket is missing it would at least slow most of the leaks down if it didn't outright stop them. Later! OL J R :)
Very nice video, I enjoyed it
Thank you
You can always step up to any brand 15W40 it might help reduce your oil consumption.
We do have that for the tractors. I had heard of gas trucks having issues when the fleet mechanic put 15w40 in them....
Or go straight 30 weight... done that too. OL J R :)
@@boehmfarm4276 Modern trucks are DESIGNED for thinner oils, so yeah you gotta stick with what it was DESIGNED to run on, or you'll have problems. OL J R :)
@@boehmfarm4276 Old gas engines would run fine on any number of different oil viscosities, and when they were worn that window widened even further. Just this modern crap that is SO finicky about what oil you run in it! Later! OL J R :)
Hey boehm farm really like your videos keep them coming. You should over hull the engine on your combine
Thank you. If I am going to overhaul it, then I will just swap it for a diesel.
Often gas-option combines were so the farmers could blend-in their own ethanol.
The ethanal industry started in the 1970's, they made gas combines before then lol
Looks like the combine engine may need a overhaul
Probably, but being a gas, I am leaning more towards a swap with a diesel.
On walker combines the cylinder busts everything up and then dumps it all on the walkers. The walkers shake and work the crop up through with grain falling down on the sieves the whole way. The walkers eventually walk the (hopefully by that point) trash to the back and out it goes. That's why there is two separate ways trash comes out on them. The main flow of trash is what comes off the walkers. The second flow is what is blowed off when the grain falls through the sieves. That's the way it was explained to me anyhow.
That seems to make sense, but still plenty of moving parts having the walkers.
Boehm Farm True. Been my experience with corn and beans rotary combines like yours are the way to go. I grew up with a combine similar to yours and it brings me back watching you work on it haha. It was my neighbor's TR85. It has the Cat V8 though. It's about junk now or at least I assume. He quit using it 6 or 7 years ago and it has sit outside since. A lot of fun memories of that machine though haha.
I hate seeing combines sit outside.
Boehm Farm Same here but there isn't anything I can do about it unfortunately. It's his combine to do as he wishes I guess. He doesn't seem interested in selling it either. I don't think it's worth much more than scrap now anyhow. That engine would be the only thing good in it.
Not quite correct. Gleaners work that way, the old ones anyway, with the threshing cylinder and a SOLID concave down in the feederhouse right behind the feed drum where the header attaches. They threshed everything right in the feederhouse and then spit it all out the back-- grain, stalks, trash, chaff, and all TOGETHER. It got thrown onto the "raddle chain" that moved it all back up into the combine and tossed it onto the straw walkers, which are much longer in a Gleaner. Some sifting of the grain and straw occurred on the raddle chain, so it was at least "pre-sorted" if still together. Most of the loose threshed grain shook out very quickly from the walkers right at the front and went right down on the grain pan, and as the rest of the straw got tossed and fluffed the rest came out further back.
MOST OTHER combines used an OPEN concave right at the front of the main combine body BEHIND the feederhouse. Open concaves allow the threshed grain, about 90% of it, to fall through the concave itself directly into either those silly auger beds Deere and CIH use, or better combines use a shaking grain pan, which pre-sifts the chaff and grain before it gets to the cleaning shoe, where the silly augers mix it all up into a mess that the rake and chaffer and sieve and fan have to sort out. Since grain pans pre-sort it, with the lighter chaff on top, as the grain drops off the pan through the rake and onto the chaffer, the VAST majority of the chaff blows right on our the back right away, and grain can rain down through the front of the chaffer onto the sieve, through the sieve and into the clean grain elevator auger. That's why NH and Claas and stuff clean SO much better than the auger-bed machines like Deere and CIH. Anyway, since most of the grain is separated out at the concave, the shorter walkers have NO problem separating out the remaining 10% of the grain that is tossed out of the cylinder and concave by the beater onto the front of the straw walkers. If it was threshed loose, it falls right through as the straw is tossed around on its way out the back.
BTW rotary machines have "2 waste streams" as well-- it's just that the rotor outlet beater and straw chopper/spreader is much closer to the cleaning shoe chaff discharge or spinner than on straw walker machines... so rotaries look more like one stream. Later! OL J R :)
To get the combine to stop consuming so much oil you could dump a whole bottle of automotive restore product with CSL
U for got to check the air filter
I felt your pain.
I have plenty of pain to share.
man you need yourself a lock n lube! i got one i defiantly recommend one. and i thing that tr needs a cummins swap!!
Cummins swap would be awesome! Good thinkin cuz!
Northern Wisconsin Farming I gotta give ya credit for lock n lube!! Thanks for telling me about it cuz!
Michigan Farming he's got the gas version of an old Detroit if it ain't leaking oil something's wrong I'll ignore the Cummins suggestion bahaha
Yeah a 4bt with a Ford small block pattern bell housing should bolt right up. And I bet the fly wheel and clutch would bolt up too.
Michigan Farming yeah lock n lube is well worth the money.
nice vid. :)
Thank you
ur welcome :)
👍👌🇨🇦❤
I would recommend a pistol grip gun for the hose. I keep a grease gun with a lever but it has the hard pipe on it. To hard to hold the hose and run the lever. You mention lots of down time waiting for parts. Is there no good new holland dealers near you?
Yeah, I think that was about the carburetor rebuild; that took some time because we went through a dealer who sent it to a carb shop. The carb had extreme pitting in the bowl and required a couple tries at patching. The cleaning and patching process could only be done once each day and then they would test the carb. We usually haven't had to wait for shipping on too many parts, just call around to a few dealers to see who has something in stock. Even if they are good dealers, Fiat has done their best to mess everything up.
Boehm Farm say no more. We are John Deere people on this farm. seems all brands are in the same boat. Good luck. I watch most of your videos, I’m unclear on what your harvest status is at this time?
I finished my corn on January 8. Unfortunately, no video was taken that day. Dad still has 14 acres left.
Where is all the snow? Peace, God Bless America...
This video is from December 21.
Ud love an lincholn electric grease gun. Love mine.
That might make it too easy. haha
I’ve never seen a gas TR70.
55 gallons of gas a day? Wow
If we get a good eight to ten hours, yes.
This is why machines should never be gassers.. inefficient, dangerous, silly recreational fuel lol
Ford 391 engine ?
361
How are u combiner in winter as we're im from we will combine August time not December January time
We are in southern Ohio. This video is from December 21. What do you grow? I went for a road trip yesterday and saw a couple fields of corn still standing and they were farther north.
Im from the UK so only wheat barley oats osr maize and grass everyone grows around were im from
Ok, and when do you plant your cereal grains? You have a more temperate winter because of all the surrounding water, but we will have hotter summers.
I understand how now thanks what do you feed your chicken I know u mix ure own but what's inside it
Is the tr70 with the cat diesel broke??
The diesel TR we have has the Ford 6 cylinder diesel. It is getting a head gasket at the moment. We sorta put off coaxing it home from the field. We should have video of the repair as soon as the gasket set comes in.
Where are you located in Ohio I’m north closer to Cleveland
We're the opposite corner of the state near Cincinnati.
wow if i got this right thats £336,3 p in fuel a day holy cow with fuel about 136p per liter
Let's just say, you're fuel prices are outrageous. Petrol is $2.25 /gallon near me. That's about 60 cents, or 47p for your litre.
Have you guys ever thought of getting rid of the two tr70s and get like a tr98 or tr96
Hey, I just bought the second TR70 this fall. I bought two combines last year and sold one(gleaner K) I think I'm moving up the ladder pretty fast. Yes, I am always looking newer. Sometimes location and price don't work out. I'd be happy with a TR 86.
Boehm Farm we had a tr86 and a tr98 the tr86 is one heck of a machine
Most of my stuff uses and leaks oil also. Check out my channel when you get a chance. Nice vid 👍🏻
well everyone is suggesting different ways to spend money on ways to make your greasing life easier, i would say get a pistol grip grease gun.
Now if only the suggesting would tun into say, donating? That would be a real game changer, haha.
I dont want to step on your toes and tell you how to run your farm but you might find it easier to ask for donations / Amazon gift list or patreon if you where able to do some of the following
set out some structure to what you where doing ( like a business plan) for each operation and do your own breakdown of equipment needed for each to do it efficiently in a time and cost effective manner.
Corn
Beans (keep the two separate because they are 2 different commodities)
Hay
Chicken - Meat
Chicken - Eggs
Veggies
Flowers
Plant Sales
General Farm Equipment and storage / green houses/ Silo's
You tube, filming / computer / video editing equipment (maybe a drone) (you could be earning some youtube royalties)
Corn and beans have the highest capital expenditure, they are also commodities everything related to this is expensive, free donated equipment might cost more to fix in time and materials and shipping than it is to just buy it locally.
At the moment its hard to tell if you have a detailed plan of what your doing or even expecting to make money wise with a breakdown of time and labour for each activity.
Taking You tube as a potential revenue stream and a means to advertise your farms products and services that also might result in more videos and subscribers, it might work well to find products that relate to some of the above activities that have a low cost to purchase that you can do reviews on or use to improve your business. that people might buy you on your Amazon wish list.
i.e buy some more calf bottle feeders / chicken water systems, nipples or the bottle waters and do a review, or in this case the pistol grip grease gun and or lock n lube.
Possible merchandise sales from etsy (hoodies coffee mugs, beanies) with profits going to help buy new (to you) equipment.
As a general Fund-raiser
You might clean the farm up and do an open day and charge $10-$20 a person sell some shirts and give tours, maybe have some displays of antique machinery running. put some seats on the hay wagon, and drive them around, through on a big BBQ for lunch (included in ticket) have some compitions, Gum boat throwing, cow pat bingo,
Example of a Specific Project.
Grain/bean Dryer
Detailed List of equipment required (people might have some stuff not being used that's on the list)
Outline work required
Detailed list of works
Detailed breakdown of costs.
How much in donations your looking for. (it could be 1/3 or 1/2 the cost)
Once you have the figure outlined and a detailed list of the equipment and labour required you can progress to fund raising and goal setting and asking for help to accomplish the goal,
- Asking people to buy merch (hoodies beanies) with profits going towards the project
- Asking people to buy a pig (hopefully boehm farm smoked and cured bacon at some point)/ cattle beast / chickens / eggs to help fund raise for the project.
- Asking people to buy or click on links to Amazon referral links to common good quality everyday use products you review, and say profits will go towards x project and to help make more videos.
The TLDR,
People dont like to arbitrarily give money, if you can tell people what your looking to do (a project) and outline your goals and the equipment and can show your plan and detail your progress to the plan you will have better luck and find it easier to get help for the next project, (donations of equipment needed or money / labour help that's required) , Donors also like to be kept up-to-date with projects and updated with how things worked out, so "free money" might not be so free.
Asking for donations, Amazon referrals, merch to help keep making videos might be the easiest way to get viewer buy in particularly if it might result in more videos.
Two words-- LOCK-N-LOAD... got one of those things I LOVE it! Some guys gripe they can't get into really tight spaces with it, and that can be true since it's bigger around, but here's a hack around that which works. When you take your old 3 or 4 jaw coupler off your grease hose to install the lock-n-load, thread a grease zerk into the end of the coupler where the hose was. Now you have a handy adapter to get into those tight spots where the LNL couldn't go. The rest of the time you run with the LNL for the other 95% of fittings (or more as some machines don't have ANY fittings too tight for a LNL) and have th convenience of it locking onto the fitting and not spewing grease everywhere or popping loose, and a free hand to run a lever gun. Works like a champ! OL J R :)