If the diode laser manufactures are going to continue with raising power to get deeper better cuts, they are going to have to come up with some sort of variable guard so that the laser can TRUELY be adjusted to the center of the wood, not just a little OFF the surface. Becomes more and more important as the power goes up and the cuts get deeper. For success, everything has to been aligned and worked to maximum efficiency, or you end up with charcoal. Thanks for the video!
You are exactly right. There is just not enough clearance to get the focus point to the middle of most material. A little more depth between the laser module and the focal point would make these higher wattage diode lasers more effective at deeper cuts.
Newbie here. This is the machine that I bought. How did you get the laser to home to the back left corner? I've tried everything I can think of, but am just not finding how. Suggestions? Thanks for the video!
I could use your help please, I have an Atezr 20 w plus, my question is: in Lightburn Device settings the S-Value max is 1000 and in MACHINE settings S-Value max ($30) is 1000, shouldn't that be higher something like 10,000? Thanks very much
Most newer GRBL based lasers such as the Atezr have the $30 set to 1000, this is the number for max power. You want both the controlling software and the laser control board set to the same settings. This controls the PWM output and how the laser interprets it. If you set it higher you will loose granularity in power. For example, if the laser control board is looking for that value to be between 0 and 1000 but you have the software set to 0 to 10,000, if you set a layer to 25% the software is going to send that number as 2500 and the controller will interpret that as over 1000 and fire the laser module at 100% power. I've rarely seen any laser in the past two years not have $30 set to 1000 so I would keep it there.
@@Vintauri Thank you very much for your insite, frankly your comments were concise and completely explained. Once again, I really appreciate your help, and I await your next video
Do you know if the Atezr P20 is compatible with the Jiccoda roller rotary or the Atomstack R1 chuck or roller? It doesn't seem to work with my Comgrow roller rotary.
It should be compatible with the Atomstack R1 Chuck rotary as Atezr has the exact same rotary re-branded for them. I don't have the Jiccoda roller to compare but what it comes down to is the pinout on the connectors matching. Many rotary devices come with extra cables that will convert the wiring to different lasers.
@@Vintauri Thank you so much for getting back to me! My Comgro has an extra cable too, but it's the same pin placement as the one that is already on it. I watched your video and Rogers Shop video on the Jiccoda 10W laser, I decided to pick one up. It looks a bit more durable/robust than the Z1 so I'm hoping it will last a bit longer. I took my Comgro Z1 apart to test some of the electronics based on what they asked me to do. It would appear as though the laser board( the one that sits on top of the laser) got really hot, and my voltages are reading 2.2 instead of the 5 that it's supposed to be. I did work the Z1 pretty hard in the last 8 months so I shouldn't be surprised that I could have "burnt" it out. I sent Comgro a response last night with some pictures, just waiting on them to see what we're going to do with the Z1. For right now the Jiccoda roller is due in today, the laser is due in Thursday and the Atomstack R1 is due in on Saturday, and I have about 20 tumblers to engrave before next Wednesday! Going to be a long weekend.🤦
Just plugged the Jiccoda Roller in and using the black tipped cable, I was able to make the rollers move when I hit the test button in the rotary menu in Lightburn. 🤞 Now to build a raised platform for the Atezr and do a little more testing.
If you get black acrylic it will cut that just fine. Some other dark colors will work as well but the translucent, white or clear acrylic will be difficult to impossible to cut.
I'm looking to increase my engraving speed. So you're saying a lower watt laser would be better than this 20-24w? I don't really need to cut things in my current workflow. Thanks for the video!
A lower watt laser will provide more detail on photorealistic engravings. They have a finer focus point and will not overburn as easily, however they will be slower at the task. If you are engraving solid vectors that are a single power, than the 20w will do that just fine and much faster than the lower wattage lasers. Thanks for watching and I hope this helps.
Atzer support is lacking. I bought one that clicks before moving. I contacted support 3 weeks ago. Still waiting for help or assistance in returning it.
I purchased the comgrow camera and large encloser for this laser. I measured, it looks like it will be a tight fit. Is that the large encloser from comgrow that is used for your video, which is excellent by the way.
Yes I did squeeze it into the large comgrow enclosure. I had to add some riser blocks for it to sit above the bottom enclosure frame rails. I also left the offline screen disconnected while running it in the enclosure. Thanks for checking it out!
Vinyl is one of the materials you should never cut with a laser. When it burns it releases Hydrochloric Acid which is toxic for humans and animals to breathe and it will be very corrosive to the metal on your laser. Venting it outside is not acceptable as the toxic fumes will still be a hazard to people or animals outside. Vinyl is best done with a non sintering method of a drag knife for thinner material or a CNC router for thicker material.
I have watched a number of positive reviews about this laser engraver machine. I have been sufficiently impressed that I ordered one at the end of April(2023). I am still awaiting delivery! Whilst they are very prompt at responding to my emails, I get lame excuse after lame excuse. For example, the first machine they were going to send fail QC, so they did not ship. As compensation I was told they would instead supply the L2 36W machine. The latest email says the wrong machine was shipped and that when it arrives I should refuse delivery. Other items that were part of the order, (honeycomb work table and enclosure) they for some reason cannot ship to the UK. They ask me if I have an address in the EU I can use; cos everyone who's buying a budget machine has a second home overseas! I am about to cancel my order and get a refund.
I need to verify the lens diameter on the V35 as well as the mounting style. If it has the brass ring that hold it in place, and if the cover lens is 13-14mm in diameter, then my lenses should work for it.
That depends on if you are needing the speed for production or not. The 10w can do most of what the 20w can do, it'll just take more passes and more time to get it done.
@@Vintauri ok, the price diff is quite big for me, and this is my first. I guess the 10w is a good middle ground for cost and functionality yeah? I’m also not sure how much I’ll get to use this. It’s very interesting for me though, and there’s endless ideas online too
Being a diode laser, you can mark Stainless Steel or Titanium using the heat from the laser. It will have no depth to it however. You can mark other metals if you use a coating like Cermark or Brilliance Marking spray, or you can remove paint, powder coating or anodization, but it will have no effect on the bare metals other than stainless steel and Titanium. If you want to truly engrave into the metal, you'll need either an IR module or to look into a Fiber Laser.
If the diode laser manufactures are going to continue with raising power to get deeper better cuts, they are going to have to come up with some sort of variable guard so that the laser can TRUELY be adjusted to the center of the wood, not just a little OFF the surface. Becomes more and more important as the power goes up and the cuts get deeper. For success, everything has to been aligned and worked to maximum efficiency, or you end up with charcoal. Thanks for the video!
You are exactly right. There is just not enough clearance to get the focus point to the middle of most material. A little more depth between the laser module and the focal point would make these higher wattage diode lasers more effective at deeper cuts.
Newbie here. This is the machine that I bought. How did you get the laser to home to the back left corner? I've tried everything I can think of, but am just not finding how. Suggestions? Thanks for the video!
Excellent!!
Those engravings are sweet!
They are fun to play around with!
I could use your help please, I have an Atezr 20 w plus, my question is: in Lightburn Device settings the S-Value max is 1000 and in MACHINE settings S-Value max ($30) is 1000, shouldn't that be higher something like 10,000? Thanks very much
Most newer GRBL based lasers such as the Atezr have the $30 set to 1000, this is the number for max power. You want both the controlling software and the laser control board set to the same settings. This controls the PWM output and how the laser interprets it. If you set it higher you will loose granularity in power. For example, if the laser control board is looking for that value to be between 0 and 1000 but you have the software set to 0 to 10,000, if you set a layer to 25% the software is going to send that number as 2500 and the controller will interpret that as over 1000 and fire the laser module at 100% power. I've rarely seen any laser in the past two years not have $30 set to 1000 so I would keep it there.
@@Vintauri Thank you very much for your insite, frankly your comments were concise and completely explained. Once again, I really appreciate your help,
and I await your next video
Do you know if the Atezr P20 is compatible with the Jiccoda roller rotary or the Atomstack R1 chuck or roller? It doesn't seem to work with my Comgrow roller rotary.
It should be compatible with the Atomstack R1 Chuck rotary as Atezr has the exact same rotary re-branded for them. I don't have the Jiccoda roller to compare but what it comes down to is the pinout on the connectors matching. Many rotary devices come with extra cables that will convert the wiring to different lasers.
@@Vintauri Thank you so much for getting back to me! My Comgro has an extra cable too, but it's the same pin placement as the one that is already on it. I watched your video and Rogers Shop video on the Jiccoda 10W laser, I decided to pick one up. It looks a bit more durable/robust than the Z1 so I'm hoping it will last a bit longer. I took my Comgro Z1 apart to test some of the electronics based on what they asked me to do. It would appear as though the laser board( the one that sits on top of the laser) got really hot, and my voltages are reading 2.2 instead of the 5 that it's supposed to be. I did work the Z1 pretty hard in the last 8 months so I shouldn't be surprised that I could have "burnt" it out. I sent Comgro a response last night with some pictures, just waiting on them to see what we're going to do with the Z1. For right now the Jiccoda roller is due in today, the laser is due in Thursday and the Atomstack R1 is due in on Saturday, and I have about 20 tumblers to engrave before next Wednesday! Going to be a long weekend.🤦
Just plugged the Jiccoda Roller in and using the black tipped cable, I was able to make the rollers move when I hit the test button in the rotary menu in Lightburn. 🤞
Now to build a raised platform for the Atezr and do a little more testing.
My wife does sewing She wants me to cut Acrylic will it cut 3mm are 3/8 Acrylic
If you get black acrylic it will cut that just fine. Some other dark colors will work as well but the translucent, white or clear acrylic will be difficult to impossible to cut.
I'm looking to increase my engraving speed. So you're saying a lower watt laser would be better than this 20-24w? I don't really need to cut things in my current workflow.
Thanks for the video!
A lower watt laser will provide more detail on photorealistic engravings. They have a finer focus point and will not overburn as easily, however they will be slower at the task. If you are engraving solid vectors that are a single power, than the 20w will do that just fine and much faster than the lower wattage lasers. Thanks for watching and I hope this helps.
Atzer support is lacking. I bought one that clicks before moving. I contacted support 3 weeks ago. Still waiting for help or assistance in returning it.
I purchased the comgrow camera and large encloser for this laser. I measured, it looks like it will be a tight fit. Is that the large encloser from comgrow that is used for your video, which is excellent by the way.
Yes I did squeeze it into the large comgrow enclosure. I had to add some riser blocks for it to sit above the bottom enclosure frame rails. I also left the offline screen disconnected while running it in the enclosure. Thanks for checking it out!
Hello, I liked your videos. Can you make a video for us about vinyl and cutting it with a laser? Thank you
Vinyl is one of the materials you should never cut with a laser. When it burns it releases Hydrochloric Acid which is toxic for humans and animals to breathe and it will be very corrosive to the metal on your laser. Venting it outside is not acceptable as the toxic fumes will still be a hazard to people or animals outside. Vinyl is best done with a non sintering method of a drag knife for thinner material or a CNC router for thicker material.
I have watched a number of positive reviews about this laser engraver machine. I have been sufficiently impressed that I ordered one at the end of April(2023). I am still awaiting delivery! Whilst they are very prompt at responding to my emails, I get lame excuse after lame excuse. For example, the first machine they were going to send fail QC, so they did not ship. As compensation I was told they would instead supply the L2 36W machine. The latest email says the wrong machine was shipped and that when it arrives I should refuse delivery. Other items that were part of the order, (honeycomb work table and enclosure) they for some reason cannot ship to the UK. They ask me if I have an address in the EU I can use; cos everyone who's buying a budget machine has a second home overseas! I am about to cancel my order and get a refund.
I ordered a L2 36w and received this p20 24w instead. Then they offer to refund the difference....
Clack said that you have the lens for sale? I need one for a Atezr V35
I need to verify the lens diameter on the V35 as well as the mounting style. If it has the brass ring that hold it in place, and if the cover lens is 13-14mm in diameter, then my lenses should work for it.
I’m looking at sculpfun, thinking if 20w is worth the price diff vs 10w…price diff hurts lol
That depends on if you are needing the speed for production or not. The 10w can do most of what the 20w can do, it'll just take more passes and more time to get it done.
@@Vintauri ok, the price diff is quite big for me, and this is my first. I guess the 10w is a good middle ground for cost and functionality yeah?
I’m also not sure how much I’ll get to use this. It’s very interesting for me though, and there’s endless ideas online too
Can you engrave stainless steel or other metals?
Being a diode laser, you can mark Stainless Steel or Titanium using the heat from the laser. It will have no depth to it however. You can mark other metals if you use a coating like Cermark or Brilliance Marking spray, or you can remove paint, powder coating or anodization, but it will have no effect on the bare metals other than stainless steel and Titanium. If you want to truly engrave into the metal, you'll need either an IR module or to look into a Fiber Laser.