PREVIEW: Miracle track conductivity cure
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2020
- trainmasters.tv/programs/trac... - Would you like a way to keep you track clean for up to 10 times longer? In this Aha Moment, Joe Fugate shares this wonder cure and explains how to properly use it for maximum effect.
Our new video series, Aha Moment, packs a lot of expert insight into a short, quick, zero-fluff video. The idea is to make every second count and to cut directly to the chase with this all-meat format.
#mrhmag #trainmasterstv
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► See the full video and follow the discussion: trainmasters.tv/programs/trac...
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I have used CRC for years and never have stalling problems or even hesitations
i recently found out about crc... i bought crc 2-26 a few weeks ago from home dept, started using it... what a HUGE difference... before locos would hesitate/or stall in certain areas... put some crc on the rails and no more stalling... my locos will NOT stall even at super low creeping/crawling speeds heck i tried to stall them on purpose but nope won't stall... the stuff works
Can't wait for the day when locomotives are battery powered and don't need to run on track power.
Right now, battery power trades one headache for another if you have a large roster. Imagine 3 hours recharge per loco and a larger layout with 25 locos on it. That's 75 hours of recharging time every op session (about three days). Cleaning the track is actually less hassle.
@@modelrrhobbyist2045 This assumptions assumes only 1 locomotive can charge at a time... Which is quite the.... "not well made" assumption. In fact, the charging method could be incorporated into long ops sessions as a switching out of the loco to a maintenance facility for "cleaning, oiling, coaling, etc" to be done while the loco charges before returning to service. But you could easily recharge multiple locomotives at the same time. Even within the span of normal sessions.
The DCC's higher voltages seems to increase the problem. LMRC used to use small amounts of hair-clipper oil, which is conductive to bridge the small patch at the wheel-rail point. Too much will cause you to loose tractive effort and also accumulate more dirt from the air, dust, etc. A very small amount, about one drop spread on each rail was enough for 1000+ft of mainline. Masonite sliders were also used to help keep the dust off the rails and polish the railheads. After 15-odd years of daily operation, LMRC's Ilmon-Cliff mainline was polished to a mirror finish. Every train (~30 cars) had one slider pad, and every morning a cleaner train of 4-6 sliders were used to clean off any previous night's dirt. This combined with weekly wheel cleaning of the engine wheels kept the operations running smoothly 1996-2002.
Interestingly, even with DC power, trails of black powder accumulated on the inside and outside of the curves, such as Caliente, where the slider pads rubbed across the curved rails, effectively cleaning off the bottom of the pad, by scraping away any accumulated 'gunk'. These black trails were vacuumed up easily about once a year... interestingly they also provided great natural weathering, simulating the brake dust off the passing trains on the heavy grades!
We've seen more problems since going to the various 'wet' cleaning options, as it seems to transfer and deposit the previously dry material which shed naturally from the railhead, now is transported and gathers in our switch points and frog guard rails. Again, too much liquid is a very bad thing!
I think part of the 'wet' track cleaning problems comes from the track cleaning 'roller cars' just placing and lifting a roller, which gets wet and saturated down on the rail and lifting it again. No actually 'cleaning' action like the slider pads occurs.
I was planning this year to do more studying and I have some ideas for solutions... but the lockdowns have made trips to LMRC not possible. :/
NOM
Well, I’m not sure what you are recommending but I am having great success with commonly available kerosene applied sparingly with a small cork block. It has survived fallout from the horrific bush fires we have had here in Australia.
I was amazed when I had a couple of months with no access to the layout due to the room being occupied with parts from a car (automobile) I was restoring. Some friends dropped in and wanted to see some train action. “Oh oh” .... this is going to be embarrassing! But NO, everything ran smoothly and there were no dropouts and I had not cleaned the track for months. BTW I chose kerosene from one of your previous articles where you were describing various cleaning products!
Regards - Rick & thanks for all the great work you do for our hobby.
Be careful using kerosene, it degrades into a pitch-like substance over time, gumming up things unless you clean it all off the track every so often. Goo Gone, based on the citrus solvent limonene also suffers from the same problem. It's a great solvent with a low dielectric constant (that's what reduces the micro-arcing) but it degrades into a pitch-like substance over time -- again you will need to clean it all off the track eventually if you want to avoid that. You want a material with a low dielectric constant, since the low dielectric value *inhibits* microarcing -- but the material also must not degrade to something that's even nastier than the black gunk!
Great video Dad. And now I am curious what you use.
Joe, You should call Tim Ring at Ring Engineering and ask him about "Micro Arcing"... He's really sharp and His power supply helps prevent the same...
So....what are you using?
So when is the show that you previewed?
Act-6000 works great for that and CRC too.
I can hardly wait for anti-gravity model trains.
Automatic transmission fluid
So, switching to plastic wheels on non-powered equipment will reduce the gunk build up significantly? No power arcing there.
Not really, the micro arching occurs between the rail and the "powered" wheels on the locomotives, not on cars, unless they draw power from the rails to ligth the car or have sound decoders. By Powered wheels I mean the wheels that draw power from the rail to make the train move.
nope... that gunk sticks to the plastic wheels to... i just cleaned some plastic wheels on some rail cars... seems that the plastic wheels attract that gunk even more than metal wheels
Maybe a conductive lubricant
Graphite.