Just a suggestion. IF I were cutting out that roof hatch, I'd use a hole saw to cut the corners out to leave a wide radius bend in the corners to distribute any stresses across that curved corner instead of cutting them at sharp 90 degree cuts. Much like why the original windows had no sharp corners, its a stronger hole in a resin /glass matrix structure that lessens the chances of cracks forming when structural stresses are applied across that material surface. Even if its going to be patched or filled. . Round (or rounded) holes are stronger than square holes. Just a thought.
100% correct. Rule 1 - Sharp corners create stress concentrations, leading to local high stress areas, greater incidence of localised crack formation and increased risk of early failure. Rule 2 - Radiused corners distribute stresses progressively throughout surrounding structure, reducing localised stress concentration, obviating cracking and considerably extending life to failure. (Now retired mech engineer: 30 years motorsport R&D / 15 years marine. Extensive high performance composite structures design experience throughout) However, I still like the basic concept of this project and the thought process that led to it. Fair play to the guys, they’re eternally willing to experiment, question and to learn. In my book those are all admirable characteristics that many either lack the confidence to take on board and carry out, or are dismissive of their value in a world where conformity is the norm.
Actually, the fiberglass will be following the natural arch of the deck or ceiling, depending on whether you’re inside or outside. The plywood core they put in will be easier to fit without having the rounded corners not that it’s hard to round the corners on the plywood. It’s when they make an opening in the fiberglass to put the new hatch in that they want to make sure they have rounded corners so that there’s no stress to cause cracks.
@@robm.4512 actually not 100% correct. Yes sharp corners do create stress concentration but that’s when you cut the opening not when you’re patching a hole. The fiberglass will follow the arch of the deck or the ceiling inside of the cabin. There will be no right angle to concentrate stress at. It’s not till they cut the opening for the new hatch that they need to worry about the rounded corners because the opening with its right angles Could cause the stress that could crack it.
To the ones saying they should’ve just bought a new boat… I think you’re forgetting, or you don’t know who Dan and Kika are. They’re architects. Nothing fits them more than a shell and endless possibilities. To Dan and Kika.. Thank you for saying true to yourselves and pushing through. You’ve been my biggest inspiration since 2016.
A worthy reply, and it is of course their choice. That being said, I always come away from each episode wanting to better understand why they elected to put so much time, money, and effort into what is fundamentally an old, small, and (forgive me) rather middling performing hull design. In the end, no amount of love, or modernization is going to make her fundamentally more than she is. As much as I enjoy every episode (and I do), I can't help but wonder how much more transformative for their lives, and future sailing, it would have been had they put the ingenuity, skill, knowledge, and resources they are lavishing on Uma into a better-designed, higher performing 10-20-year-old design. Either way, I'll be here watching!
@@jeffkovacs6521 unless they want to show what can be done with a 50 year old, small, mildly performing ...... Plus Uma will be way safer if anything else.
@@jeffkovacs6521 True but they know their audience its not hard to find an old boat that needs work, its achievable for a lot of people. They want to show that its not that hard to learn what you need.
You two are practically building a boat from scratch. Essentially, you have the shell, but even that wasn't enough, you've had to strengthen and reinforce your shell. OMG. I'm never going to build a boat, but I am learning a ton watching you. What a strong relationship you are creating together. I loved seeing you work under the exposed wooden boat.
In the British navy they have shore estalishments with ship names, like HMS Excellent, a ship of the line used as gunnery school, moved ashore and continued to be called HMS Excellent. Such bases are called stone frigates.
So many people in this chat know my exact life trying not to smear epoxy all over and get a new glove across the room while in a locker or small head area with sails, supplies around 😂
Hi,you are basically starting from scratch with a taylor made to custom boat…a great project for us to follow,thank you for showing us the way ,cheers Roly🇬🇧.
I've always admired the planning and intelligence you've used in your projects. I especially appreciate how you've scaled the glassing in of the portals. It seems to be an efficient approach to quality work. Nicely done.
I’ve been following your boat project since about 2019 or 2020, the pandemic years. Your Pearson 36 is slowly morphing into an Uma 36. Can’t hardly wait to see the finished product.
Great job. Just a suggestion for glassing in the deck hatches: do it from the top - put a backing board and the plastic from the inside of the boat and layer the fiberglass from the outside, let the gravity be your friend. Doing it from the inside will be messy and the bond will not be as strong with so many heavy layers. Have fun and enjoy 🙂
I agree. Personally I’d also do the port lights feathering from the outside. Obviously it would be a much harder job, but the main force of shipping water will be from the outside, so it would push the infill into the gap rather than out of it in case of any future delimitation issues. I know nothing about fibreglass though. You guys are amazing! ❤
@@justsomeguy6474 What does that mean? What does any of the QA post production issues have to do with composite design/build? I love the armchair keyboard warriors, that utter this nonsense. Something you wouldn't do in person, would you? Go back to playing with yourself and let the adults have an intelligent conversation.
I’m absolutely loving your take no prisoners approach to rebuilding Oma. I can see you really getting into the spirit of re-creating her as she should’ve been built in the first place just absolutely awesome thanks for your content. Been loving it for years.
FYI only: Wet the five layers out on top of plastic wrap, then you can handle the backside of the layup without getting resin on your gloves. Once it’s in place, remove the plastic wrap and start rolling.
I agree! With all the holes that go through the deck, why use a material that absorbs water? A boat deck, like a building with a flat roof, is guaranteed to leak.
I'm on my third Binge watch of Y'all's videos. On Step 32 now. You guys are truly inspiring; I don't have a boat, but I've starting exploring projects around the house. :)
Hi Guys. you probably already know that you can use isopropyl alcohol to release hot glue bonds. a few drops along the glue line is all it takes for the glue to release. I'm really enjoying your journey. Thanks for sharing.
Interesting that you are planning on using balsa coring. You have been getting rid of most of the wood except for your bulkheads. Any thought about a synthetic coring? Also, my vote for the storage unit is "Pandora"
You two are really talented, resourceful and industrious! I’ve worked with composites for decades, doing boat and aircraft inspection, repair and maintenance in my free time for flying and gliding clubs mostly, so the standards have to be very high (no room for mistakes). The standards you guys exhibit are very high indeed. Well done ❤️👏👏👏 P.S. Your storage unit informs me that he has always been and will always be: “Frank”
I was'nt on this whole rebuild operation till today. I tought you should take a bigger boat and fit it to your needs. But now I see what you are doing. Amazing!
External chainplates, nice! Herbie (Rigging doctor) is doing it for Wisdom and had some excellent videos explaining the math behind it. Would love watching how you tackle that.
Call it "The Basement." In my youth in Illinois, most houses had basements; that's where the shop & workbenches were. Someone would ask: "Where's the xxx?" and the answer would be: "It's down the basement.." When we moved to California, where few houses have basements, we did an on-grade room addition for the purpose of Hobby/Shop stuff... We call that room"The Basement." It's one of the few basements I know of that has skylights...
One thing that makes this channel speial is with it success they are in tune with their audience and didn't just go buy some huge cat that we could not realistically relate to but the make the best with what u have is...not that that's not also how they feel in theory but it is realistic for them to do that yet they don't.
The bi-axle, you can pre-wet out because it will stay together because of the way it’s made. However, the chop strand you want it wet in place, because once you start to wet it out, the individual fiber separate allowing them to be moldable and take the shape of whatever you’re putting them on. So if you pre-wet it out it’ll start to fall apart as you try to move it into place.
I think the container should be called Boxie. Also, I wonder how much video you had to cut while editing all that fiberglass cutting? And did Dan yell "Cut!" at the end of the cutting scene? Yup, . . . I can hear people saying "Now cut that out!".
I'm an architect undergoing a similar if not as extensive refit of our 26 foot fixed keel trailer boat. For the headliner after years of thinking I've landed of architectural felt panels. They are sold as acoustic panels or baffles. The are about 1/2 an inch thick, preserving my precious headroom, they should make the boat MUCH quieter inside, they should provide some insulation, and the are synthetic fabric so should resist mold and shrug off water, like a fleece. So far I have only ordered samples and temporarily hot glued them to the ceiling but I think it will be nice. They back cut them at 45 degrees to form corners and bends.
8:27 use a hole saw at the corners before cutting out the shape. You are now going to have to radius the corners to avoid stress cracks, but you haven't left room for that.
Since we’re grinding and tapering the glass edges down and laminating them in from both sides, it’s not really an issue. If the hole was staying in the boat, then, yes, radiused corners are best.
I know exactly where UMA is located. In 1998 I used to park my assigned CL-415 water bomber right next door at the Olbia airport. Love the Costa Esmeralda. Interesting project don’t forget to take some time for yourselves.
Storage unit name: The Reef. I keep thinking that in10 years you will be designing and building your next boat. Though you have almost done so with this rebuild of Uma! You two amaze me.
In case you read this, a constant problem with using frequently disposable gloves is your own sweat!. I’ve learned to use dry towels to thoroughly dry my hands right after I pull a set off and before I pull a new one on. Especially those 4-7 mil nitrile gloves. Cheers and I’m looking forward to this remodeling.
Love watching this scale of refit. It reminds me of the level of remodel I have done many times to houses. The beauty is younget to make it EXACTLY the way you want it!!
your "couch" is really well organized and so you don't have far to get to the boat - and yes: the "couch" is in a place that I know relatively well :-) keep on this good work and my best regards
So ... when will we be able to buy a factory built Uma 36? ... because you guys are on your way to opening a yard! wowza - my hat's off to getting this far. I was too much of a wuss to even reglass my thru-hulls LOL
Thank you so much for sharing your journey. Seeing you tackle such big projects helps give me confidence to tackle my own boat projects. My experience sailing from Canada to New Zealand was that the boat exterior is wonderful, but whoever did the actual interior design was not a long distance cruiser, so I'm fixing that.
First i have to say i love following the rebuild. Iam no expert. But i have done some open water sailing. The forward hatch you talked about with the angel towards the deck. I see the waves going over the bow of the boat and the pressure from the water will make the hatch leak. When the seals are new it probably wont be a problem tho. Its just a thought. Cant wait to see the end result
Balsa core! Yay! You’re building a cored coach roof from the outside in! That bad boy is gonna be way strong. I was hoping you’d install proper opening portlights and voila! You’re doing it! She will be a proper seaworthy ocean crosser! You proved that a Pearson production boat is capable AND now you’ve shown the world the difference between truly seaworthy boats and production boats. Your project is adding to the body of knowledge. Great work!
I know, i'm too late . But i put it here anyway . For others to see and read it . I would strongly suggest not to use balsa wood for the core . Whatever you try , sooner or later you will get a leak to the core . Maybe small, but still . Balsa wood rots at an amazing speed when sealed off , so moisture can't escape . It's better to use foam for a core . Airex foam par example . But any hard foam will do .
We’ll get more into this is a future video. But yes, if your entire deck is already foam, then use that. Ours is balsa, and when done correctly it works really well.
I've professionally worked in that field@@SailingUma . So i think i know a bit of building GRP boats . But you did choose your path . Presumably after a lot of thinking . I will watch your project and chime in again when i have advice .
At some point I asked myself whether the footprint of a converted boat is really smaller than that of a new boat. Hope you get this work done soon. Miss the sailing vlogs
I think you guys are doing a fantastic job ! Way over kill but great security for future travels, just one question?? Maybe you should have done this to,a 50’ boat ? With in the next 10 years you may want a family and a 50’ would give you the room and more storage?? OR fix it up use it for a few years sell it and purchase a new kraken ?? LOL
I would be on the team "Buy a new boat" for sure, cause i couldnt do 10% of what you are doing, and i would be too scared about safety issues. BUT that's not my journey, and i love watching those videos every week about how you rebuild Uma. I dont even plan to buy a boat or sail one day, but all those videos over the years about refurbishment is trully amazing and inspirating.I am a CG 3D Artist, working on luxury aircraft refurbishments, and sometimes it reminds me about that. Though they never rebuild the main structture, just the interior.
Really impressive...a brand NEW "DOG HOUSE" ... insulted and everything. It is both surprising and very impressive that you guys have thought about and integrated all the structure, engineering, and development of this space on the boat. Keep the faith, and know that watching has been wonderful, and the result will be too.
It's nice to see that there are still people who can not only consume but also preserve and value things - I hope you can technically implement your layout ideas and the constructive requirements to improve the ship's hull. A note must be allowed - the material storage is certainly not a good place to eat - too much dust and fibers from the work - it certainly has the positive flair of a "first aid kit" or a "pharmacy" for Uma. lots of plasters and wound ointments for the great old lady. Good luck for the future - don't be discouraged by the work to be done in the next few months
Watching you guys plan and process is amazing! I am intrigued by everything and learning so much. Thank you for sharing with us and excited for the next Step. Bravo 👏👏👏
I would have worked outside in instead of inside out as you did, because the highest pressure would come from the outside if a wave rolls over. Then you would depend less on the sticking/gluing of your work and more on the structural strength of the existing hull to prevent the new work to be pushed in.
Actually the load of a green wave coming down on the deck will push the sides OUT since it will crash down with all it weight on the flat cabin top since it has the most surface area. It’s that outward bending force we’re combatting by adding core to the side deck. But also properly installed glass on a well prepared surfaces does “pop off” is super secure.
Was thinking the same, start with the larger piece 1st then next smaller and so on. I think I saw it on another sailing channel. If there's a lot of debate on this, lets chime in, it'll increase revenue for the build.
@@SailingUma Interesting. Composite material scientist here, so I follow this debate with interest - and it is certainly a debate! From what I've seen across a number of boat restoration channels and published how-to guides, I'd say the balance of opinion is actually to start large - but it probably doesn't make a huge difference provided the layers are well-bonded in either case.
@@SailingUmaWest says in his Fiberglass-Manual-2015: "Cut an appropriate number of pieces of fiberglass fabric the same shape as the hole. The first piece should match the outside edge of the bevel, with subsequent pieces gradually getting smaller. The final layer should match the inside edge of the bevel at the hole." I don't know anything about it and years ago I only built a small wood/epoxy boat myself, that's a completely different world. But these bondings between a new and an old laminate always scare me, I remember your saildrive installation....😱....it seems to have held. MfG Jan
I’ve watched you both since the beginning and it never gets old. I would say you should receive Nobel Prize for your fine work under a new title. I haven’t come up with that title yet. I’m working on it so when it comes to me I will post it to you. So sit on pins , needles and fiberglass dust.
Hello! Your videos are still awesome. Are you in Italy now? I lived there for 3 years and loved it. You should buy a place on the Med. I suggest south of Genoa, close to Cinque Terre. Love that area, still gets some seasonal changes and so beautiful. Love you guys❤
Mylar packing tape is a very nice and tidy release film instead of plastic. Use brown because it's easier to see if you miss a spot. And if you sprinkle a little Cabosil (colloidal silica) to the wet resin, it makes it more thixotropic and doesn't run out on vertical surfaces like your window patches
Probably too late, but i would not use balsa core anymore, it can absorbe the water and rot and it looses its sandwich effect. That is why foam core is used nower days.
AS a boat builder in the states, I would caution putting core all over your top sides... I should be ridge enough and you will be adding loads of weight to the top of your vessel. I'm sure some spots would be fine but be aware of how you might change stability characteristics.
We removed about 50kg from the deck when we took the liner out. Another 15kg with the hatches gone. We’re putting back about 30kg of glass, core and resin. So it will be lighter AND stronger. WIN WIN.
You could call the container your mobile shop. Pack it with all of your tools, supplies, and extras and have it shipped anywhere in the world it's needed. The global infrastructure for shipping standard containers is beyond amazing.
If you go with Coosa board, rather than Balsa, you'll never have to worry about water intrusion. For the chop strand, since you're using Polyester resin (rather than Epoxy), it does absorb more easily. You want a liberal layer of resin, then apply the dry chop strand, then resin with an application roller. Use a metal resin roller to force the resin into the strands and air out. Then more resin. I'll usually put a layer of bidirectional cloth over the chop strand, which greatly increases the stiffness/strength.
Your work looks fantastic! QUICK PRO TIP: DONT leave the overhead cutouts squared. Square, straight lines create LOTS OF PRESSURE where they meet. YOU WILL GET CRACKS there. Take some large coin currency, use that as your radius and cut those squares ROUND! GREAT WORK!
Yes, but we’re tapering the glass back to the core and glassing it all back in too and bottom. Won’t be any right angles left other than the core cut out. So it should be just fine.
Usual reply, they know better, they're the engineers... except one always rounds corners, to relieve stress points, regardless of covering material, strength is strength, weakness is weakness, it's not hard to do and every little bit counts.
@@SailingUma Sorry to contradict you twice in one day, but I winced at these sharp corners too. Sure, you'll cut it back and glass over it, and it'll probably be fine - but why take the risk? That opening's a very big discontinuity in the deck, and those corners will be stress-concentrations when the boat flexes, glassed over or not. Given this is a once-in-a-lifetime rebuild, I'd take the extra ten minutes and round off the corners...
I was surprised when you cut out the hatch in the V-berth. You do so much great work cutting with the angle grinder I totally forgot that you owned a jigsaw.
@19:05 You can also wet up on a piece of plastic/bin bag cut to be slightly larger than the fibre glass layup, wet out the glass on that & then just carry the whole lot to where you need it. Easy to carry, stops the glass from drooping out of shape & easy to remove once it has dried.
Just a suggestion. IF I were cutting out that roof hatch, I'd use a hole saw to cut the corners out to leave a wide radius bend in the corners to distribute any stresses across that curved corner instead of cutting them at sharp 90 degree cuts. Much like why the original windows had no sharp corners, its a stronger hole in a resin /glass matrix structure that lessens the chances of cracks forming when structural stresses are applied across that material surface. Even if its going to be patched or filled. . Round (or rounded) holes are stronger than square holes. Just a thought.
Sounds like good practice to do so
100% correct.
Rule 1 - Sharp corners create stress concentrations, leading to local high stress areas, greater incidence of localised crack formation and increased risk of early failure.
Rule 2 - Radiused corners distribute stresses progressively throughout surrounding structure, reducing localised stress concentration, obviating cracking and considerably extending life to failure.
(Now retired mech engineer: 30 years motorsport R&D / 15 years marine.
Extensive high performance composite structures design experience throughout)
However, I still like the basic concept of this project and the thought process that led to it.
Fair play to the guys, they’re eternally willing to experiment, question and to learn.
In my book those are all admirable characteristics that many either lack the confidence to take on board and carry out, or are dismissive of their value in a world where conformity is the norm.
Actually, the fiberglass will be following the natural arch of the deck or ceiling, depending on whether you’re inside or outside. The plywood core they put in will be easier to fit without having the rounded corners not that it’s hard to round the corners on the plywood. It’s when they make an opening in the fiberglass to put the new hatch in that they want to make sure they have rounded corners so that there’s no stress to cause cracks.
@@robm.4512 actually not 100% correct. Yes sharp corners do create stress concentration but that’s when you cut the opening not when you’re patching a hole. The fiberglass will follow the arch of the deck or the ceiling inside of the cabin. There will be no right angle to concentrate stress at. It’s not till they cut the opening for the new hatch that they need to worry about the rounded corners because the opening with its right angles Could cause the stress that could crack it.
@@duanemiller5606 a weakness remains a weakness even when becoming proportionally so small.
To the ones saying they should’ve just bought a new boat…
I think you’re forgetting, or you don’t know who Dan and Kika are. They’re architects. Nothing fits them more than a shell and endless possibilities.
To Dan and Kika..
Thank you for saying true to yourselves and pushing through. You’ve been my biggest inspiration since 2016.
A worthy reply, and it is of course their choice. That being said, I always come away from each episode wanting to better understand why they elected to put so much time, money, and effort into what is fundamentally an old, small, and (forgive me) rather middling performing hull design. In the end, no amount of love, or modernization is going to make her fundamentally more than she is. As much as I enjoy every episode (and I do), I can't help but wonder how much more transformative for their lives, and future sailing, it would have been had they put the ingenuity, skill, knowledge, and resources they are lavishing on Uma into a better-designed, higher performing 10-20-year-old design. Either way, I'll be here watching!
@@jeffkovacs6521 They might end up sailing Uma for a year or two and then trading up.
@@jeffkovacs6521 unless they want to show what can be done with a 50 year old, small, mildly performing ......
Plus Uma will be way safer if anything else.
Who was your inspiration before that ? ❤❤❤❤
@@jeffkovacs6521 True but they know their audience its not hard to find an old boat that needs work, its achievable for a lot of people. They want to show that its not that hard to learn what you need.
The work container should be Davy Jones's Locker of course. If not, then Kika's Kloset. 😁
You two are practically building a boat from scratch. Essentially, you have the shell, but even that wasn't enough, you've had to strengthen and reinforce your shell. OMG. I'm never going to build a boat, but I am learning a ton watching you. What a strong relationship you are creating together. I loved seeing you work under the exposed wooden boat.
The storage unit should be called the bunker ! LOL
In the British navy they have shore estalishments with ship names, like HMS Excellent, a ship of the line used as gunnery school, moved ashore and continued to be called HMS Excellent. Such bases are called stone frigates.
The Uma Bunker!
Nautical but not descriptive: Barnacle Barn.
Tip. Wear multiple gloves. Then when on set gets to messy pull them off and you will have a fresh set underneath.
So many people in this chat know my exact life trying not to smear epoxy all over and get a new glove across the room while in a locker or small head area with sails, supplies around 😂
While the epoxy is starting to set soon 😂
Hi,you are basically starting from scratch with a taylor made to custom boat…a great project for us to follow,thank you for showing us the way ,cheers Roly🇬🇧.
I've always admired the planning and intelligence you've used in your projects. I especially appreciate how you've scaled the glassing in of the portals. It seems to be an efficient approach to quality work. Nicely done.
Honestly, I wasn't sure at first, but it looks like they're going to nail it. What a ride! Can't wait to see how it all pans out.
I believe that Dan being an architect is beneficial.
@@MarceloPaciorek. They are both architects.
I’ve been following your boat project since about 2019 or 2020, the pandemic years. Your Pearson 36 is slowly morphing into an Uma 36. Can’t hardly wait to see the finished product.
Great job. Just a suggestion for glassing in the deck hatches: do it from the top - put a backing board and the plastic from the inside of the boat and layer the fiberglass from the outside, let the gravity be your friend. Doing it from the inside will be messy and the bond will not be as strong with so many heavy layers. Have fun and enjoy 🙂
… it’s like you can predict the future! ;)
I agree. Personally I’d also do the port lights feathering from the outside. Obviously it would be a much harder job, but the main force of shipping water will be from the outside, so it would push the infill into the gap rather than out of it in case of any future delimitation issues. I know nothing about fibreglass though.
You guys are amazing! ❤
You beat me to it. At Boeing we flipped things over or rotated 90 degrees, to take advantage of gravity.
@@SCFoster Yeah that's not aging well right now. ;)
@@justsomeguy6474 What does that mean? What does any of the QA post production issues have to do with composite design/build?
I love the armchair keyboard warriors, that utter this nonsense. Something you wouldn't do in person, would you?
Go back to playing with yourself and let the adults have an intelligent conversation.
I’m absolutely loving your take no prisoners approach to rebuilding Oma. I can see you really getting into the spirit of re-creating her as she should’ve been built in the first place just absolutely awesome thanks for your content. Been loving it for years.
Good old UMA refit vibes :) Oh what a pain to wait whole week for new episode!
Call your workshop UMA HQ. It's been fun watching you guys work on this and I am looking forward to the finished product. Your work ethic inspires me.
PizzUma?
It’s only 9am and you made me tired watching this. Lol
You guys always "plan your work, and work your plan." I love it!
FYI only: Wet the five layers out on top of plastic wrap, then you can handle the backside of the layup without getting resin on your gloves. Once it’s in place, remove the plastic wrap and start rolling.
We’ve tried that method too. It’s just much harder to get air bubble out after than it is to remove them as you go.
Pizza in Italy. How cool is that. Baby powder application to the skin helps me with fiberglass itchiness.
Pro tip. Cover the area you don’t want epoxy to bond to with plastic packing tape. It is easy to cover just the area you want covered this way.
Love that Uma is coming back together!
Don’t use balsa as a core, use a closed cell foam. Otherwise if it does leak it will spread the balsa and rot the lot.
Something like Airex would be best....not too expensive as it is a small area.
Or just use balsa correctly and make sure it doesn’t leak ;)
I agree! With all the holes that go through the deck, why use a material that absorbs water?
A boat deck, like a building with a flat roof, is guaranteed to leak.
Was the sarcastic tone necessary?
I'm on my third Binge watch of Y'all's videos. On Step 32 now. You guys are truly inspiring; I don't have a boat, but I've starting exploring projects around the house. :)
Good for you bro Gods speed
Got some catching up to do
Call the container Hephaestus.
After the greek god of forges and craftsman.
These are my favorite vids, where your just cranking out work on Uma.
I thought sharing pizza is the only way! Actually, we do it with a lot of other take out food too.
The couch is good name for that shed.
Hi Guys. you probably already know that you can use isopropyl alcohol to release hot glue bonds. a few drops along the glue line is all it takes for the glue to release. I'm really enjoying your journey. Thanks for sharing.
Nice job! Love the mise en place! I vote the container be referred to as " the box of holding" love the episodes! Cheers🎉
Interesting that you are planning on using balsa coring. You have been getting rid of most of the wood except for your bulkheads. Any thought about a synthetic coring? Also, my vote for the storage unit is "Pandora"
“pandora” might be the best name yet.
I was wondering the same thing about balsa vs foam coring. Does one have better insulating or strength properties?
Call it "Uma's Hideaway", I follow all of your videos & can't wait for them to be on You Tube.
Umina. Dank place. Dandy box. Clam shell. Couch jail. The giant locker. Glassy knoll. White house. Landlubber.
By the way I really enjoy your videos. Both of you have great sense of humor and the ability to explain everything about the projects.
Gotta love the juxtaposition of the $6M SunReef yacht next to Uma! Two ends of the sailing spectrum.
You two are really talented, resourceful and industrious! I’ve worked with composites for decades, doing boat and aircraft inspection, repair and maintenance in my free time for flying and gliding clubs mostly, so the standards have to be very high (no room for mistakes). The standards you guys exhibit are very high indeed. Well done ❤️👏👏👏
P.S. Your storage unit informs me that he has always been and will always be: “Frank”
I was'nt on this whole rebuild operation till today. I tought you should take a bigger boat and fit it to your needs. But now I see what you are doing. Amazing!
External chainplates, nice! Herbie (Rigging doctor) is doing it for Wisdom and had some excellent videos explaining the math behind it. Would love watching how you tackle that.
You ought to include some AC for you boat. It would make traveling to humid places much better.
Call it "The Basement." In my youth in Illinois, most houses had basements; that's where the shop & workbenches were. Someone would ask: "Where's the xxx?" and the answer would be: "It's down the basement.." When we moved to California, where few houses have basements, we did an on-grade room addition for the purpose of Hobby/Shop stuff... We call that room"The Basement." It's one of the few basements I know of that has skylights...
One thing that makes this channel speial is with it success they are in tune with their audience and didn't just go buy some huge cat that we could not realistically relate to but the make the best with what u have is...not that that's not also how they feel in theory but it is realistic for them to do that yet they don't.
When you are done, you will have a new boat that you know every aspect of its build. Looking forward to the sea test when you are done.
I think the architectural background is kicking in, you guys can see the vision, most of us are in the dark! Can't wait to see what unfolds.
You guys have worked your ass off and it's looking good, Kudos.
one of the good things about doing the work in Italy ... il cibo...the food. yum!
I looked up that Cat that was near y'all. "Stylia" That thing is a beast. Only for sale for 6m. LOL
The bi-axle, you can pre-wet out because it will stay together because of the way it’s made. However, the chop strand you want it wet in place, because once you start to wet it out, the individual fiber separate allowing them to be moldable and take the shape of whatever you’re putting them on. So if you pre-wet it out it’ll start to fall apart as you try to move it into place.
I think the container should be called Boxie. Also, I wonder how much video you had to cut while editing all that fiberglass cutting? And did Dan yell "Cut!" at the end of the cutting scene? Yup, . . . I can hear people saying "Now cut that out!".
I'm an architect undergoing a similar if not as extensive refit of our 26 foot fixed keel trailer boat. For the headliner after years of thinking I've landed of architectural felt panels. They are sold as acoustic panels or baffles. The are about 1/2 an inch thick, preserving my precious headroom, they should make the boat MUCH quieter inside, they should provide some insulation, and the are synthetic fabric so should resist mold and shrug off water, like a fleece. So far I have only ordered samples and temporarily hot glued them to the ceiling but I think it will be nice. They back cut them at 45 degrees to form corners and bends.
8:27 use a hole saw at the corners before cutting out the shape. You are now going to have to radius the corners to avoid stress cracks, but you haven't left room for that.
Interesting point
Since we’re grinding and tapering the glass edges down and laminating them in from both sides, it’s not really an issue. If the hole was staying in the boat, then, yes, radiused corners are best.
@@SailingUma I hear you, but for that to be true, the edges of your grind have to approach transparency.
I know exactly where UMA is located. In 1998 I used to park my assigned CL-415 water bomber right next door at the Olbia airport. Love the Costa Esmeralda. Interesting project don’t forget to take some time for yourselves.
You folks are smart and clever. Good luck to you.
The Buzz Box! So much activity inside your box. :-)
Storage unit name: The Reef. I keep thinking that in10 years you will be designing and building your next boat. Though you have almost done so with this rebuild of Uma! You two amaze me.
Maybe. The future is unknown and unpredictable.
Call the container the BWS (boat work space).
In case you read this, a constant problem with using frequently disposable gloves is your own sweat!. I’ve learned to use dry towels to thoroughly dry my hands right after I pull a set off and before I pull a new one on. Especially those 4-7 mil nitrile gloves. Cheers and I’m looking forward to this remodeling.
Love watching this scale of refit. It reminds me of the level of remodel I have done many times to houses. The beauty is younget to make it EXACTLY the way you want it!!
your "couch" is really well organized and so you don't have far to get to the boat -
and yes: the "couch" is in a place that I know relatively well :-)
keep on this good work and my best regards
Video idea, your of the town you’re staying in while you do all this work, places you go for coffee, what/where do you eat, points of interest?
So ... when will we be able to buy a factory built Uma 36? ... because you guys are on your way to opening a yard! wowza - my hat's off to getting this far. I was too much of a wuss to even reglass my thru-hulls LOL
Great work!! I didn't realise the refit was this radical. Total customisation :)
Thank you so much for sharing your journey. Seeing you tackle such big projects helps give me confidence to tackle my own boat projects. My experience sailing from Canada to New Zealand was that the boat exterior is wonderful, but whoever did the actual interior design was not a long distance cruiser, so I'm fixing that.
First i have to say i love following the rebuild. Iam no expert. But i have done some open water sailing. The forward hatch you talked about with the angel towards the deck. I see the waves going over the bow of the boat and the pressure from the water will make the hatch leak. When the seals are new it probably wont be a problem tho. Its just a thought. Cant wait to see the end result
Balsa core! Yay! You’re building a cored coach roof from the outside in! That bad boy is gonna be way strong. I was hoping you’d install proper opening portlights and voila! You’re doing it! She will be a proper seaworthy ocean crosser! You proved that a Pearson production boat is capable AND now you’ve shown the world the difference between truly seaworthy boats and production boats. Your project is adding to the body of knowledge. Great work!
Nice job, guys. Clear, two inch wide packing tape works great as release film and leaves a nice smooth surface.
I know, i'm too late . But i put it here anyway . For others to see and read it . I would strongly suggest not to use balsa wood for the core . Whatever you try , sooner or later you will get a leak to the core . Maybe small, but still . Balsa wood rots at an amazing speed when sealed off , so moisture can't escape . It's better to use foam for a core . Airex foam par example . But any hard foam will do .
We’ll get more into this is a future video. But yes, if your entire deck is already foam, then use that. Ours is balsa, and when done correctly it works really well.
I've professionally worked in that field@@SailingUma . So i think i know a bit of building GRP boats . But you did choose your path . Presumably after a lot of thinking . I will watch your project and chime in again when i have advice .
At some point I asked myself whether the footprint of a converted boat is really smaller than that of a new boat. Hope you get this work done soon. Miss the sailing vlogs
I think you guys are doing a fantastic job ! Way over kill but great security for future travels, just one question?? Maybe you should have done this to,a 50’ boat ? With in the next 10 years you may want a family and a 50’ would give you the room and more storage?? OR fix it up use it for a few years sell it and purchase a new kraken ?? LOL
Maybe if we win the lottery.
I would be on the team "Buy a new boat" for sure, cause i couldnt do 10% of what you are doing, and i would be too scared about safety issues. BUT that's not my journey, and i love watching those videos every week about how you rebuild Uma.
I dont even plan to buy a boat or sail one day, but all those videos over the years about refurbishment is trully amazing and inspirating.I am a CG 3D Artist, working on luxury aircraft refurbishments, and sometimes it reminds me about that. Though they never rebuild the main structture, just the interior.
BATTERY POWERED SCISSORS!!!!!!
Really impressive...a brand NEW "DOG HOUSE" ... insulted and everything. It is both surprising and very impressive that you guys have thought about and integrated all the structure, engineering, and development of this space on the boat. Keep the faith, and know that watching has been wonderful, and the result will be too.
It's nice to see that there are still people who can not only consume but also preserve and value things - I hope you can technically implement your layout ideas and the constructive requirements to improve the ship's hull.
A note must be allowed - the material storage is certainly not a good place to eat - too much dust and fibers from the work - it certainly has the positive flair of a "first aid kit" or a "pharmacy" for Uma. lots of plasters and wound ointments for the great old lady.
Good luck for the future - don't be discouraged by the work to be done in the next few months
Nice work guys! She’s looking aweseome, it will be great to see what you do with her! M!
You guys are all in. No holds barred now. Loving this content👍
Watching you guys plan and process is amazing! I am intrigued by everything and learning so much. Thank you for sharing with us and excited for the next Step. Bravo 👏👏👏
I would have worked outside in instead of inside out as you did, because the highest pressure would come from the outside if a wave rolls over. Then you would depend less on the sticking/gluing of your work and more on the structural strength of the existing hull to prevent the new work to be pushed in.
Actually the load of a green wave coming down on the deck will push the sides OUT since it will crash down with all it weight on the flat cabin top since it has the most surface area. It’s that outward bending force we’re combatting by adding core to the side deck.
But also properly installed glass on a well prepared surfaces does “pop off” is super secure.
I'm so glad you're doing this in Italy, in Sardinia :)
Windows that open are called portlights. Windows that don't open are called deadlights.
You always start with the largest part off the fiberglass! Due to the strength!!
Nope. Start small, end large. There is a lot of debate on this subject. But we’ve never seen a professional boat builder start large and end small.
@buza1300 completely agree, never seen a boat yard fill a hole small to large
Was thinking the same, start with the larger piece 1st then next smaller and so on. I think I saw it on another sailing channel. If there's a lot of debate on this, lets chime in, it'll increase revenue for the build.
@@SailingUma Interesting. Composite material scientist here, so I follow this debate with interest - and it is certainly a debate! From what I've seen across a number of boat restoration channels and published how-to guides, I'd say the balance of opinion is actually to start large - but it probably doesn't make a huge difference provided the layers are well-bonded in either case.
@@SailingUmaWest says in his Fiberglass-Manual-2015: "Cut an appropriate number of pieces of fiberglass fabric the same shape as the hole. The
first piece should match the outside edge of the bevel, with subsequent pieces gradually
getting smaller. The final layer should match the inside edge of the bevel at the hole."
I don't know anything about it and years ago I only built a small wood/epoxy boat myself, that's a completely different world.
But these bondings between a new and an old laminate always scare me, I remember your saildrive installation....😱....it seems to have held.
MfG Jan
I’ve watched you both since the beginning and it never gets old. I would say you should receive Nobel Prize for your fine work under a new title. I haven’t come up with that title yet. I’m working on it so when it comes to me I will post it to you. So sit on pins , needles and fiberglass dust.
Hello! Your videos are still awesome. Are you in Italy now? I lived there for 3 years and loved it. You should buy a place on the Med. I suggest south of Genoa, close to Cinque Terre. Love that area, still gets some seasonal changes and so beautiful. Love you guys❤
great image of Dan cutting plywood under an ancient carvel hull with Stylia (whatever a Stylia is) in the background.
would recommend getting a pair of electric shears if you're gonna be cutting a lot of glass
Mylar packing tape is a very nice and tidy release film instead of plastic. Use brown because it's easier to see if you miss a spot. And if you sprinkle a little Cabosil (colloidal silica) to the wet resin, it makes it more thixotropic and doesn't run out on vertical surfaces like your window patches
Uma‘s Cantina!
Probably too late, but i would not use balsa core anymore, it can absorbe the water and rot and it looses its sandwich effect. That is why foam core is used nower days.
Uma 2.0, this is what happens when architecture majors remodel a dream sailboat. Awesome creativity 👍👍👍
I love that you guys have gone back to Episode 1. I’m am loving your refit and your comments. It’s must see tv for me. Keep it up guys. Love it 👍🏼
AS a boat builder in the states, I would caution putting core all over your top sides... I should be ridge enough and you will be adding loads of weight to the top of your vessel. I'm sure some spots would be fine but be aware of how you might change stability characteristics.
We removed about 50kg from the deck when we took the liner out. Another 15kg with the hatches gone. We’re putting back about 30kg of glass, core and resin. So it will be lighter AND stronger. WIN WIN.
5:55 The first one you put on popped off a little on the left.
Looking back into life, now I wish our teachers were like you.
You could call the container your mobile shop. Pack it with all of your tools, supplies, and extras and have it shipped anywhere in the world it's needed. The global infrastructure for shipping standard containers is beyond amazing.
That is already the plan.
If you go with Coosa board, rather than Balsa, you'll never have to worry about water intrusion.
For the chop strand, since you're using Polyester resin (rather than Epoxy), it does absorb more easily. You want a liberal layer of resin, then apply the dry chop strand, then resin with an application roller. Use a metal resin roller to force the resin into the strands and air out. Then more resin. I'll usually put a layer of bidirectional cloth over the chop strand, which greatly increases the stiffness/strength.
I want to know more about that lovely old timber boat next door.
Your work looks fantastic! QUICK PRO TIP: DONT leave the overhead cutouts squared. Square, straight lines create LOTS OF PRESSURE where they meet. YOU WILL GET CRACKS there.
Take some large coin currency, use that as your radius and cut those squares ROUND!
GREAT WORK!
Yes, but we’re tapering the glass back to the core and glassing it all back in too and bottom. Won’t be any right angles left other than the core cut out. So it should be just fine.
Usual reply, they know better, they're the engineers... except one always rounds corners, to relieve stress points, regardless of covering material, strength is strength, weakness is weakness, it's not hard to do and every little bit counts.
@@SailingUma Sorry to contradict you twice in one day, but I winced at these sharp corners too. Sure, you'll cut it back and glass over it, and it'll probably be fine - but why take the risk? That opening's a very big discontinuity in the deck, and those corners will be stress-concentrations when the boat flexes, glassed over or not. Given this is a once-in-a-lifetime rebuild, I'd take the extra ten minutes and round off the corners...
Container name? "Uma Hut." (Inspired by the the pizza lunch 😎.) Great job and planning on the hatches and ports.
I was surprised when you cut out the hatch in the V-berth.
You do so much great work cutting with the angle grinder I totally forgot that you owned a jigsaw.
You guys have the right idea. To make a perfect omelette, you have to crack a few eggs and make a bit of a mess, but in the end. 😊😊
The two of you are doing a fantastic piece of work. the result is going to be outstanding. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
@19:05 You can also wet up on a piece of plastic/bin bag cut to be slightly larger than the fibre glass layup, wet out the glass on that & then just carry the whole lot to where you need it. Easy to carry, stops the glass from drooping out of shape & easy to remove once it has dried.
You guys must really love that boat.😂 Anyone else would have just bought a new one.
She is coming along!!!!!!!
On such a big project, I'm glad you guys can enjoy the series of little victorys along the way. Patience patience, like two little Yoda's. Great job!
It’s good to see you’ve finally got some decent scissors!.