Binge watchin. 25 down so far. Lol. Love seein how you 2 have brought this all together. Outside helpstoppin by is cool to see as well. & a late congratulations on the film festival.
It’s taken me the last three days but I’ve watched every single one of your videos you guys are awesome keep them coming can’t wait to see the finish!!
I watched the pour video. That had to be an exciting day. Thank you for the excellent videos. You gentlemen are doing a great series of teaching videos. I have read many books on boat building, watched numerous videos and built several small skiffs but this series is as close to an on-line building course as I have ever seen. Thank you again and am looking forward to learning more as you progress.
Wow guys, this is awesome. Surprised it took a cord of wood, thought it would of taken more with that much lead. I plan to buy and fix my own (fiberglass) sailboat so I love channels like these.
Great to see a proper Mattock(One of the ones with the right angle 'chopping' back rather than a pick or other shape) used. They don't seem common over there despite being in nearly every shed in Australia. One of the few hand digging tools I know of that can cut through rock hard clay, rock filled soil and after watching your video, even frozen ground! I like the trick of adding blocks of lead to keep it from forming voids. That would work on smaller casts too.
First we need some warm weather! We are certainly anxious to get to shaping wood but we need it to warm up enough that we can paint before we can go much farther.
a pipe fitting called a "union" is used make connections between fixed points. the fitting splits in half. it has two faces that butt together in the center and are sealed with a slip nut.
Love your vids guys,I've built a few wood vessels in my time and I'm very interested in your project.I was thinking about your plumbing issue,you may have been able to use a union in the section between the two tank outlets,maybe???I was a carpenter all my life and have used unions in a lot of steel gas line installations,and at the outlets on water heaters as well...I'm not all the way through the whole series,I'm so excited...very proud of your commitment,best of luck full steam ahead...
Yankee ingenuity is alive and well. Those of us who know even basic plumbing were wondering why you didn't employ unions. Also, a bit of redundancy missed in editing when you explained your plumbing procedure twice, back to back. All in all, very impressive.
I can't believe how much you guys have grown this thing. You both are doing an outstanding job, kind of making my timber framing videos look a little shabby. Keep going, you guys will be on the ocean before you know it.
This is the only guy I’ve ever seen who can rock a “man bun” and who has deserved the distinction. I respect the man bun on this dude. I wish I could lend my help to them!
Haven't had a chance to watch this yet, but I'm really enjoying the project. Your videos are great, thanks for uploading! *edit* Another fantastic video. Thanks for sharing!
Great work again and thanks for sharing the set up. OK guys - how about we give lead, welding, tanks etc a break and take another peek at the real job? (Ha Ha!) Really enjoying the whole thing and look forward to the next video. Good Luck from Mallorca.
We are very anxious to get to wood working! Unfortunately we are on hold until we get a bit warmer weather. We need to paint the wood keel and lead keel before we can go too much farther and it's far too cold to paint. It will be a exciting spring and summer though! A lot of wood is roughly shaped and as soon as the warm temps come we can really make some headway!
It's a small world! A chap from Ireland is coming to visit us this summer to lend a hand as well. Seems we are developing a little following across the pond =)
Acorn To Arabella i spotted the comment too.. small world my boat isnt far from Crookhaven in a village called Baltimore. It has to be on your list for sure! Cork is a hardore sailing community. Some of schools teach it as well.
What do you sail? I have a Trintella 29.... Crookhaven is one of the first ports of call for many yachts coming across the Atlantic. Schull a town near by one of the classes int he High School is Sailing.
There must of been 50 replies telling you that you should of used a union. I think the sealing surface in a union is lead. That might of caused a leak problem when it melted. A left hand thread could of been turned on a lathe, but you solved the problem just fine. Keep up the good work.
Tim Brown Yes it did work but speed and potential troubleshooting it's always good to learn the proper method to reduce the error risk for any future endeavor of theirs or perhaps where they are sought out for advice from another and they can advise properly rather than just "what worked" this time as the next person may not be as confident or competent with a welder to prevent leaks.
I seem to recall that the seal in a union is made out of lead. Could be a problem when it melts. What they did welding it worked fine. Also a left hand thread could of been turned on one end of the pipe
Glad you guys just keep uploading after the shitstorm of comments on the previous video! A very brave endeavour this keel was, must be a load off your shoulders having it in the backyard now How are you going to lift that monstrosity out of the ground btw?
horensvanbaronsabato Amen, I’d hate to see them stop posting, this is a great project and these guys deserve respect for their level of effort if nothing else. What they have already accomplished is pretty incredible.
Thanks for the kind words! It will take a lot more than some bad comments to get us to stop posting videos, fear not. Bottle jacks, pipe rollers, our home made winch with a 4 to 1 pulley system and 3 days of toil to get it up and moved. We will show all that in the next video.
Hats off to you both, for enterprise and energy and motivation, tempered with good intuitions, finesse, appropriate caution and respect for tradition. I'm guessing your openness to new experience means you will continue learning throughout your adult lives at a rate which few kids maintain past early childhood. Muchos Kudos!
If it says KIRK on it, its most likely Kirksite. Kirksite is about a 95% zinc/5% aluminum alloy that was originally developed within the automotive industry for sheet metal forming tools. Zinc is still pretty heavy.
Looks like you thought of everything that could go wrong except a couple minor issues. Had all your "I"s crossed & "T"s dotted lol. Can't wait to see how you lift & move this monster. Good work guys.
Thanks! We certainly put a lot of thought into how best to pour that beast and are quite pleased with the results! We will chronicle the move in the next video, bottle jacks, pipe rollers, the home made winch with a 4 to 1 pulley system and 3 days of grunt work to get it up, out and moved onto the cribbing. It ain't light!!
Awesome work lads. That kirk block will be zinc. Keep it as you'll be wanting to put zincs on your keel and prop boss to reduce galvanic corrosion between the lead keel/bronze keel bolts or bronze prop/stainless shaft. But I'm sure you're all over that.
We are aware of the need for anodes and will be putting them on when the time comes. There seems to be many theories for the block, some say zinc, others say babbit and one even guessed silver although we doubt it's silver.
Wow that's awesome I'm glad you made this video and posted. Very good job the thought of how and how if you no what I mean. There maybe a few ways to do that but you did it a great way and it worked awsome. Some may think that's easy but really no and the steps you did to make shur the frame didn't break and pour everything every were. I'm shur there been many make a frame pour not in the ground and had lead everywere. But I read commemt of the last video of the pore and you did good and I'm glad you made this one despite the trolls and judgement of others. But I'm glad you OK cause I melt lead for fishing weights and sell and give away alot to kids I meet thru my group and give to alot of adult also only sale when I need tackle to buy to give away. Which I wish I could find big load of lead like you had like shaving be easy to melt and make weight I'm in need bad but peiple don't give away wheel weights anymore everyone sells way more than I can make back and I have to buy smart to be able to help more. But now the lift OMG that's gonna be heavy and so cool to see after you take the wood frame off. Can't weight awsome video again thanks sirs for blessing all of us with living the journey with y'all. I mean you could have done all this had the baot done and sailing already then share. But we're watching and sharing your days as if we was there just watching so thanks. This means alot to many that prob won't say. But I'm one to say I'm blessed to share your journey. Have a great weekend god bless
Anytime you have a problem with plumbing(and you probably won't now) Do not hesitate to ask me. I'll be happy to help in anyway I can. You could have used a union and swung each section of pipe toward alignment where as each was being tightened as they came into line. There would have been a slight difference where the two union faces contacted, but easily done if they were cut and threaded properly. Get er done. And you did. A modest patron and still a plumber after 42 years. "A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds" R. W. Emerson
Thanks! Not sure if any plumbing is in our future anytime soon but we will let you know if we have any questions! Thanks for following and for the support!
You could have used a pipe union so you could tighten a pipe to both connectors then use the union to join the pipes in the middle. But welding works too
Yes a pipe "Union" is what you want. It secures to both ends then by way of a flange and a connecting thread as shown in the cutaway diagram and then displayed are unions for use in other specific area applications. Very useful for being able to remove sections of a line easily and because of the sealing flanges, more often than not, prevent the need for sealing tape or compounds at the union joint. goo.gl/images/YmJRu9
A union may not have held up to the lead,any good plumbing shop could have put a left hand thread on one end and a normal right on the other,old plumber/pipe fitter trick,ive done hundreds of them.including building several pipe racks (plumbers don’t use lumber racks,lol)for our service trucks,I’m curious why you didnt skim the crap off the top of the pour as you went,would have kept some contaminants out.im sure it’s not a big deal for this,but I’d not let that much remain were it me.
One thing I’d like to add,you might have should done the skim as it may become a barrier for the little bit of a layer you mentioned you may add to the top,you don’t want all that crap ont top
i havnt read all the comments on the plumbing problem, some of you have mentioned a left handed thread to solve this problem. have any of you ever heard of a running joint there is no left hand thread involved but a nut is put on the thread first then a normal union then another nut the joint goes in the middle of the union and the two nut go either side of the union to lock it in place. any thoughts on that?
Good job guys, but I think you were lucky those two 3/4" outlets did not block during the pour looking at all that crap left in the bottom afterwards, or was all that crap floating on top of the lead during the pour. Looking forward to see you get that out of the hole in the ground, you will need your cornflakes that morning.
Lead is so dense that everything floats to the top, steel, bronze, dross.... We were not concerned about the outlets, if they did clog it would be at the very end. It took 3 days but we got it up, out and moved. We will show how we did it in the next video.
When you made the concrete mold - it seemed to be much more "formed" to fit the keel with inserts and other shapes to fit to boat - Where as this form seemed to be pretty straightforward and didn't have the complex shapes of the concrete form. Did you change how you would attach it?
They are very similar. The nib ends were still there just tucked inside the form so not as obvious. The radius at the corners is sharper with the wood mold but a few passes with the power planer and those will be smoothed out. Other than that they are the same shape and will be bolted on the same way.
the 'all videos' or the 'starting on the boat' playlists are all in order but not numbered. For some reason, numbering the videos was getting them flagged through TH-cam. But the playlists should work as they are. Let us know otherwise and I'll see what I can do to fix it. -A
None. Lead is crazy dense, it's like putting Styrofoam at the bottom of pool, breaking a chunk off and asking how much will be suspended in the water. The lead dumping in was enough force to smash part of the liner out, the chunks erupted to the surface and the top was liquid long after the plywood popped up. Any wood that broke off had ample time to make it to the surface. After smoothing, some shaping and drilling of the ballast keel we found no indication at all that there is wood or dross inside the casting or any voids. It seems to have come out very well.
I thought that at some point you had said that the keel would cost 35,000$ if you had one made for you. I am so amazed at your ingenuity. I could be wrong tho.
Sometimes we jump around a little bit. People were super anxious to see the lead pour so we released that before we showed how we did it. Didn't want to make them wait any longer =)
Should have poured the shavings into the mold, they would have melted on contact with the liquid lead and left room in the melter for more solid pieces...
We will show how we moved it and the unveiling in the next video. If you follow us on Instagram or Facebook we have posted pics of it out of the ground and mold.
It has been done this way for longer than you think. The only thing we changed is figuring out a single source container to hear the lead in before the pour instead of using a bunch of cast iron bath tubs which were the norm. Heating it in a steel mold is not a good idea. First, you do not want the steel and it would be more work to cut that off afterwards. Not to mention you can't fair it like the lead. Second as the steel mould heats and cools it would deform and you would not be able to keep the shape you need.
I have tried to watch the build from the beginning but you tube has your videos bouncing all over that I cannot keep up with a chronological order videos. Alas I'll probably miss a number of important videos but it's too much to try to figure out.
At first i thought , that tank you used was an old propane tank , kinda made me sad it was a huge air tank , i really hope it was bad... Rip air tank 2018 Its already been said but pipe union was what you needed for that pluming conundrum..
It was sad to cut up a perfectly serviceable air tank but it would have been even sadder if we used a less robust tank and something went wrong! We have 3,000 pounds of ingots to pour for internal ballast and there is a chap who is gearing up for a pour of his own that is interested in taking our tank setup when we are done so it will get more use than the one pour. =)
Good to hear that !, but on another note, this really brought out the enviro-nazi's and safety sally's huh? its nuts !. man, i wanna reply to every one but there are so many, its not worth my time... I mean lets put it this way , till the 60s lead was like literally in every thing, gas, paint, pewter, glass, you name it it was in it.....
Carefully We will show that in the next video but bottle jacks, pipe rollers, the home made winch with a 4 to 1 pulley system and 3 days of toil to get it up, out and moved.
You have been getting so much negative feed back, I bit my lip about the 1/4 plywood liner. When sizing joists for new construction they are 1 inch wider and deep than the size needed to take the load. In a normal fire they will burn up to 1/2 inch into the joist on all four sides. The half inch of burnt joist will stop the the air getting to the beam and burning further. Of cause when the fire becomes an inferno nothing will stop the joists burning all the way through. I'm sure that you would in hind sight you would leave out the 1/4 ply and cut down another of Grandpas trees to use as as a 1 1/2 inch liner. LOL PLEASE BECOME A PATREON AND HELP THESE GUYS TO KEEP POSTING THESE VIDEOS.
Actually we would use the liner again believe it or not. It gave us very smooth sides and only a small portion of it came free. In hindsight we would glue the liner in and put in more fasteners. The glue bonds on the plywood held, it seems like the bottom of the mold distorted a little bit and the lead got behind the liner and that is what got it to break free. A little glue and a few more screws and I think it all would have stayed put. The plywood charred but all the layers were still intact.
The label on that unmelted block made me wonder if it might be a chunk of kirksite. That stuff was used to make dies for stamping out prototype car parts. Quick to make and nowhere near as tough as steel dies, but workable if you only needed to make a couple dozen parts for test purposes.
I got curious enough to look it up. Kirksite is a mixture of zinc and aluminum, and melts at 750F, versus 621 for lead. You were probably close to melting it, but evidently not close enough.
Binge watchin. 25 down so far. Lol. Love seein how you 2 have brought this all together. Outside helpstoppin by is cool to see as well. & a late congratulations on the film festival.
Thanks for watching!
Old-fashioned Yankee ingenuity is obviously alive and well in Western Massachusetts. Farmyard engineering at its finest! :-)
It's crazy to go back and look at these and see the size of the boathouse and especially without a standing boat in it!!
It’s taken me the last three days but I’ve watched every single one of your videos you guys are awesome keep them coming can’t wait to see the finish!!
Thanks!
It's going to be a long time until she is done but we will keep on sharing the progress!
They're grouse, eh.
I watched the pour video. That had to be an exciting day. Thank you for the excellent videos. You gentlemen are doing a great series of teaching videos. I have read many books on boat building, watched numerous videos and built several small skiffs but this series is as close to an on-line building course as I have ever seen. Thank you again and am looking forward to learning more as you progress.
Wow guys, this is awesome. Surprised it took a cord of wood, thought it would of taken more with that much lead.
I plan to buy and fix my own (fiberglass) sailboat so I love channels like these.
We were surprised as well at the speed it melted!
Great to see a proper Mattock(One of the ones with the right angle 'chopping' back rather than a pick or other shape) used. They don't seem common over there despite being in nearly every shed in Australia. One of the few hand digging tools I know of that can cut through rock hard clay, rock filled soil and after watching your video, even frozen ground!
I like the trick of adding blocks of lead to keep it from forming voids. That would work on smaller casts too.
Nice walk through, it was a good idea to do this after the pour film too. Looking forward to seeing the un moulding vid.
That was a well thought out setup for a backyard deal. Good job. Thanks for the video.
This is a great example of practical engineering. Good job, guys. Great to watch.
Thanks!
Thanks for cooperating Mother Nature. Glad you guys finally got it poured.
Great job, guys! Bet you're looking forward to some wood working now. Thanks for documenting your work.
First we need some warm weather! We are certainly anxious to get to shaping wood but we need it to warm up enough that we can paint before we can go much farther.
a pipe fitting called a "union" is used make connections between fixed points. the fitting splits in half. it has two faces that butt together in the center and are sealed with a slip nut.
This is the most entertaining thing on TH-cam. you guys are great in front of the camera and also crazy af
Thanks! We are pretty insane, we will not argue that one! Glad you are enjoying following our journey!
Great job guys. Look,forward to seeing the unboxing... Andy Sussex, UK
Well thought out. Looking forward to the next one.
Love your vids guys,I've built a few wood vessels in my time and I'm very interested in your project.I was thinking about your plumbing issue,you may have been able to use a union in the section between the two tank outlets,maybe???I was a carpenter all my life and have used unions in a lot of steel gas line installations,and at the outlets on water heaters as well...I'm not all the way through the whole series,I'm so excited...very proud of your commitment,best of luck full steam ahead...
Y'all da man/s. Coolness factor way up there. Best videos to date for 2018 so far.
The videos have gotten way better in content and voice overs.
Thanks! We are still very much learning and evolving as TH-cam creators. Glad it's being noticed!
Yankee ingenuity is alive and well. Those of us who know even basic plumbing were wondering why you didn't employ unions. Also, a bit of redundancy missed in editing when you explained your plumbing procedure twice, back to back. All in all, very impressive.
Thanks!
There are many things we are not and plumbers is one of them! ha!
I can't believe how much you guys have grown this thing. You both are doing an outstanding job, kind of making my timber framing videos look a little shabby. Keep going, you guys will be on the ocean before you know it.
Thank you! You keep up what you're doing as well!
This is the only guy I’ve ever seen who can rock a “man bun” and who has deserved the distinction.
I respect the man bun on this dude. I wish I could lend my help to them!
The solution to your tank bottom pipe connection: an "union joint " , very common in plumbing and very safe.
Haven't had a chance to watch this yet, but I'm really enjoying the project. Your videos are great, thanks for uploading!
*edit* Another fantastic video. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! Glad you are enjoying them!
Always interesting to see what you guys are up to. Thanks For sharing!!
Thanks! Glad you are enjoying them!
Great work again and thanks for sharing the set up. OK guys - how about we give lead, welding, tanks etc a break and take another peek at the real job? (Ha Ha!) Really enjoying the whole thing and look forward to the next video. Good Luck from Mallorca.
We are very anxious to get to wood working! Unfortunately we are on hold until we get a bit warmer weather. We need to paint the wood keel and lead keel before we can go too much farther and it's far too cold to paint. It will be a exciting spring and summer though! A lot of wood is roughly shaped and as soon as the warm temps come we can really make some headway!
love it guys, just found your chanel. and ant wait to see more of the build. keep it up. cheers from the netherlands
Thanks!
We will keep posting videos as we make progress.
When ever you get this completed and get sailing you will have to put in to Crookhaven, Co Cork, Ireland, I would love to see it.
Ciaran Ireland im in Cork too :)
It's a small world! A chap from Ireland is coming to visit us this summer to lend a hand as well. Seems we are developing a little following across the pond =)
Acorn To Arabella i spotted the comment too.. small world my boat isnt far from Crookhaven in a village called Baltimore. It has to be on your list for sure! Cork is a hardore sailing community. Some of schools teach it as well.
There are so many places to visit! It will take us multiple lifetimes to get to them all! =)
What do you sail? I have a Trintella 29.... Crookhaven is one of the first ports of call for many yachts coming across the Atlantic. Schull a town near by one of the classes int he High School is Sailing.
There must of been 50 replies telling you that you should of used a union. I think the sealing surface in a union is lead. That might of caused a leak problem when it melted. A left hand thread could of been turned on a lathe, but you solved the problem just fine. Keep up the good work.
Potable water unions can't use lead, they either use copper or iron seats...
@@mikeskelly2356 Good point. I'm dating myself............gotta watch that. LOL
The answer to getting all the fittings tight is you put a Union in the line.Tighten all the fittings and then you tighten the union last.
crzy11000 you are correct, or better still fit two unions one on each of the two outlets from the tank.
Or do what they did. It worked and that is all they need to know.
Aah but the next person may not have the same equipment
Tim Brown Yes it did work but speed and potential troubleshooting it's always good to learn the proper method to reduce the error risk for any future endeavor of theirs or perhaps where they are sought out for advice from another and they can advise properly rather than just "what worked" this time as the next person may not be as confident or competent with a welder to prevent leaks.
I seem to recall that the seal in a union is made out of lead. Could be a problem when it melts. What they did welding it worked fine. Also a left hand thread could of been turned on one end of the pipe
Glad you guys just keep uploading after the shitstorm of comments on the previous video! A very brave endeavour this keel was, must be a load off your shoulders having it in the backyard now
How are you going to lift that monstrosity out of the ground btw?
horensvanbaronsabato Amen, I’d hate to see them stop posting, this is a great project and these guys deserve respect for their level of effort if nothing else. What they have already accomplished is pretty incredible.
Thanks for the kind words!
It will take a lot more than some bad comments to get us to stop posting videos, fear not.
Bottle jacks, pipe rollers, our home made winch with a 4 to 1 pulley system and 3 days of toil to get it up and moved. We will show all that in the next video.
Hats off to you both, for enterprise and energy and motivation, tempered with good intuitions, finesse, appropriate caution and respect for tradition. I'm guessing your openness to new experience means you will continue learning throughout your adult lives at a rate which few kids maintain past early childhood. Muchos Kudos!
Yeah! Big step. Flawless edit.
Thanks!
I’m pretty sure that block of metal that didn’t melt, is a zinc anode.
Nate Reynolds I was thinking the same thing. They use them to absorb corrosion from salt water to protect iron or steel parts.
melting point
zinc 787F
lead 621F
If it was an anode i'd expect it to have holes for bolts to go through. we'll never find out
If it says KIRK on it, its most likely Kirksite. Kirksite is about a 95% zinc/5% aluminum alloy that was originally developed within the automotive industry for sheet metal forming tools. Zinc is still pretty heavy.
Looks like you thought of everything that could go wrong except a couple minor issues. Had all your "I"s crossed & "T"s dotted lol. Can't wait to see how you lift & move this monster. Good work guys.
Thanks!
We certainly put a lot of thought into how best to pour that beast and are quite pleased with the results!
We will chronicle the move in the next video, bottle jacks, pipe rollers, the home made winch with a 4 to 1 pulley system and 3 days of grunt work to get it up, out and moved onto the cribbing. It ain't light!!
Awesome work lads. That kirk block will be zinc. Keep it as you'll be wanting to put zincs on your keel and prop boss to reduce galvanic corrosion between the lead keel/bronze keel bolts or bronze prop/stainless shaft. But I'm sure you're all over that.
We are aware of the need for anodes and will be putting them on when the time comes. There seems to be many theories for the block, some say zinc, others say babbit and one even guessed silver although we doubt it's silver.
Wow that's awesome I'm glad you made this video and posted. Very good job the thought of how and how if you no what I mean. There maybe a few ways to do that but you did it a great way and it worked awsome. Some may think that's easy but really no and the steps you did to make shur the frame didn't break and pour everything every were. I'm shur there been many make a frame pour not in the ground and had lead everywere. But I read commemt of the last video of the pore and you did good and I'm glad you made this one despite the trolls and judgement of others. But I'm glad you OK cause I melt lead for fishing weights and sell and give away alot to kids I meet thru my group and give to alot of adult also only sale when I need tackle to buy to give away. Which I wish I could find big load of lead like you had like shaving be easy to melt and make weight I'm in need bad but peiple don't give away wheel weights anymore everyone sells way more than I can make back and I have to buy smart to be able to help more. But now the lift OMG that's gonna be heavy and so cool to see after you take the wood frame off. Can't weight awsome video again thanks sirs for blessing all of us with living the journey with y'all. I mean you could have done all this had the baot done and sailing already then share. But we're watching and sharing your days as if we was there just watching so thanks. This means alot to many that prob won't say. But I'm one to say I'm blessed to share your journey. Have a great weekend god bless
So good to watch
Awesome. Keep it coming.
Greetings and Best wishes from India.
great job guys
Anytime you have a problem with plumbing(and you probably won't now) Do not hesitate to ask me. I'll be happy to help in anyway I can. You could have used a union and swung each section of pipe toward alignment where as each was being tightened as they came into line. There would have been a slight difference where the two union faces contacted, but easily done if they were cut and threaded properly. Get er done. And you did. A modest patron and still a plumber after 42 years. "A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds" R. W. Emerson
Thanks!
Not sure if any plumbing is in our future anytime soon but we will let you know if we have any questions!
Thanks for following and for the support!
What a brutal job.
You could have used a pipe union so you could tighten a pipe to both connectors then use the union to join the pipes in the middle. But welding works too
So, was this the last and official pour? No more retakes or re-pours?
Awesome! Can't wait to see.
Not plumbers, eh ? What you wanted to join your 2 sections of pipe is called a union.
You beat me to it ... here's an example: www.homedepot.com/p/LDR-Industries-3-4-in-Galvanized-FPT-x-FPT-Union-311-U-34/100570339
Yes a pipe "Union" is what you want. It secures to both ends then by way of a flange and a connecting thread as shown in the cutaway diagram and then displayed are unions for use in other specific area applications. Very useful for being able to remove sections of a line easily and because of the sealing flanges, more often than not, prevent the need for sealing tape or compounds at the union joint.
goo.gl/images/YmJRu9
A union may not have held up to the lead,any good plumbing shop could have put a left hand thread on one end and a normal right on the other,old plumber/pipe fitter trick,ive done hundreds of them.including building several pipe racks (plumbers don’t use lumber racks,lol)for our service trucks,I’m curious why you didnt skim the crap off the top of the pour as you went,would have kept some contaminants out.im sure it’s not a big deal for this,but I’d not let that much remain were it me.
One thing I’d like to add,you might have should done the skim as it may become a barrier for the little bit of a layer you mentioned you may add to the top,you don’t want all that crap ont top
Never heard of a left hand pipe thread !
L👀KING FORWARD TO MORE !
Next time use a navy union, it makes life easy when joining two pipes together
i havnt read all the comments on the plumbing problem, some of you have mentioned a left handed thread to solve this problem. have any of you ever heard of a running joint there is no left hand thread involved but a nut is put on the thread first then a normal union then another nut the joint goes in the middle of the union and the two nut go either side of the union to lock it in place. any thoughts on that?
you needed a "Union"in the pipe so you could connect the two fittings
Lol I'm gonna need you guys to hurry up, I want to see the finished project!!!
LOL
Some things should not be rushed, patience my friend! =)
I assume that thing that didn't melt was a sacraficial zinc anode so that it would be the first thing to rust instead of steel etc around it
Good job guys, but I think you were lucky those two 3/4" outlets did not block during the pour looking at all that crap left in the bottom afterwards, or was all that crap floating on top of the lead during the pour. Looking forward to see you get that out of the hole in the ground, you will need your cornflakes that morning.
Lead is so dense that everything floats to the top, steel, bronze, dross.... We were not concerned about the outlets, if they did clog it would be at the very end.
It took 3 days but we got it up, out and moved. We will show how we did it in the next video.
Jack is correct a union is all you needed and not all the extra work would of had to be done
They have actual fittings for the problem you had that come in 2 pieces and thread onto each side of the pipe then thread together to join the pipe
When you made the concrete mold - it seemed to be much more "formed" to fit the keel with inserts and other shapes to fit to boat - Where as this form seemed to be pretty straightforward and didn't have the complex shapes of the concrete form. Did you change how you would attach it?
They are very similar. The nib ends were still there just tucked inside the form so not as obvious. The radius at the corners is sharper with the wood mold but a few passes with the power planer and those will be smoothed out. Other than that they are the same shape and will be bolted on the same way.
If you have planer shavings that are surplus to your needs ; they would help the guy making fishing sinkers for Kids. Bert
is there a playlist where all the episode are numbered so we can watch them in order?
the 'all videos' or the 'starting on the boat' playlists are all in order but not numbered. For some reason, numbering the videos was getting them flagged through TH-cam. But the playlists should work as they are. Let us know otherwise and I'll see what I can do to fix it. -A
15:50 You could have added two 90° elbows and a small pipe in the middle to make a "Z shaped plumbing". It's easier to get everything tight.
That's a interesting solution we had not thought of. Thanks for sharing!
do you think that a Union might have worked for that and did you put any eye bolts in to be able to lift THE LEAD ????????
The Kirk bar looks like it was zinc, probably one of those anodes that help prevent corrosion of the ships hull
How much of that plywood liner do you suspect is setting in the center of the keel? And if there is what kind of problems will it create
None. Lead is crazy dense, it's like putting Styrofoam at the bottom of pool, breaking a chunk off and asking how much will be suspended in the water.
The lead dumping in was enough force to smash part of the liner out, the chunks erupted to the surface and the top was liquid long after the plywood popped up. Any wood that broke off had ample time to make it to the surface.
After smoothing, some shaping and drilling of the ballast keel we found no indication at all that there is wood or dross inside the casting or any voids. It seems to have come out very well.
Curious why you didn't make a positive mold and then use refactory sand in a box?
A wood mold is a proven method and the one most often recommended by the professional builders. We were following the guidance of the pros.
That Kirk ingot might be babbit...or silver. Which ever fits. Either way, worth having around, for obvious reasons :)
Very cool, What about Keel bolts?
We will drill and install them later.
18K subscribed!! Well done guys!
Thanks!
Things really took off after the lead pour video!
For 1/2" and 3/4" steel pipe. Centerline to centerline minus 1 1/4". That's the length of the cut and threaded section of pipe.
I saw a John Deere backhoe in Some of the later videos. Why not use the backhoe?
It wasn’t around until the later videos. 😁
@@AcornToArabella well that makes perfect sense then.
Tractor wouldn’t start... no block heater? Fuel tank out back away from the heater?
It's a gas tractor, it had a clogged fuel filter.
You guys just made 35 grand. Aaaamazing. Congrats
How?
I thought that at some point you had said that the keel would cost 35,000$ if you had one made for you. I am so amazed at your ingenuity. I could be wrong tho.
A keel poured at a foundry would be around $35,000 so in that sense we saved $30,000 or so.
i found your program and documentary very interesting but why they are not in the right order?
Sometimes we jump around a little bit. People were super anxious to see the lead pour so we released that before we showed how we did it. Didn't want to make them wait any longer =)
Thank you kindly for your reply 🙏👍👍
One of these times were going to see a couple of tiny birds fly into Steves beard and make a nest.
The kirk ingot is kirksite (zinc based alloy with aluminum and copper)
Thanks for the info!
Should have poured the shavings into the mold, they would have melted on contact with the liquid lead and left room in the melter for more solid pieces...
X'trodinary ! A custom word deserving of your unreal ordeal described here.
Thanks! It felt so good to get that thing poured and into the boathouse safely.
Those blocks that didn't melt are made of zinc, which melts at a slightly higher temperature than lead.
Thanks!
really cool
I cannot wait to see it out of the ground
We will show how we moved it and the unveiling in the next video.
If you follow us on Instagram or Facebook we have posted pics of it out of the ground and mold.
The union to join the two bits of pipe is called a Navy Joint.
Outfuckingstanding. Very much enjoy the channel guys !
Thanks!
You needed to put something they call a union in between the two joints so that you can tighten both sides without loosening up the other end.
union joints. would be the correct parts. for the next time.
It’s called a union. Used to join the 2 pipes.
for me it looks like that you are trying to re envent the wheel. The wheel is round, and why doing it so difficult, I do not understand
It has been done this way for longer than you think. The only thing we changed is figuring out a single source container to hear the lead in before the pour instead of using a bunch of cast iron bath tubs which were the norm.
Heating it in a steel mold is not a good idea. First, you do not want the steel and it would be more work to cut that off afterwards. Not to mention you can't fair it like the lead.
Second as the steel mould heats and cools it would deform and you would not be able to keep the shape you need.
I have tried to watch the build from the beginning but you tube has your videos bouncing all over that I cannot keep up with a chronological order videos. Alas I'll probably miss a number of important videos but it's too much to try to figure out.
Hi john,
If you go to the acorn to Arabella page on TH-cam and then click on playlist. We have all the videos in there in chronological order.
@@AcornToArabella That's what I did...........simple solution. I'm up to this one now.
why didn't you use unions? That would have solved you tightened/loosend problem
At first i thought , that tank you used was an old propane tank , kinda made me sad it was a huge air tank , i really hope it was bad... Rip air tank 2018
Its already been said but pipe union was what you needed for that pluming conundrum..
It was sad to cut up a perfectly serviceable air tank but it would have been even sadder if we used a less robust tank and something went wrong!
We have 3,000 pounds of ingots to pour for internal ballast and there is a chap who is gearing up for a pour of his own that is interested in taking our tank setup when we are done so it will get more use than the one pour. =)
Good to hear that !, but on another note, this really brought out the enviro-nazi's and safety sally's huh? its nuts !. man, i wanna reply to every one but there are so many, its not worth my time...
I mean lets put it this way , till the 60s lead was like literally in every thing, gas, paint, pewter, glass, you name it it was in it.....
You needed a permit to build a temporary shelter with a greenhouse roof... what was required to do THIS?!
so does the lead keel go outside or will it have a wooden cover?
It gets through-bolted under the wooden keel
Metal ingot? could it be bronze. Bert
Ehi! My boat!
The leftover bit looks like an anode.
So.. how are you going to move it?
Carefully
We will show that in the next video but bottle jacks, pipe rollers, the home made winch with a 4 to 1 pulley system and 3 days of toil to get it up, out and moved.
Acorn To Arabella im liking the way you use leverage and mechanical advantages to do everything old school. Keep up the good work.
You could have used a railroad union fitting
that block could be steel wieght.
the fiiting you needed is called a union
You have been getting so much negative feed back, I bit my lip about the 1/4 plywood liner. When sizing joists for new construction they are 1 inch wider and deep than the size needed to take the load. In a normal fire they will burn up to 1/2 inch into the joist on all four sides. The half inch of burnt joist will stop the the air getting to the beam and burning further. Of cause when the fire becomes an inferno nothing will stop the joists burning all the way through. I'm sure that you would in hind sight you would leave out the 1/4 ply and cut down another of Grandpas trees to use as as a 1 1/2 inch liner. LOL
PLEASE BECOME A PATREON AND HELP THESE GUYS TO KEEP POSTING THESE VIDEOS.
Actually we would use the liner again believe it or not. It gave us very smooth sides and only a small portion of it came free. In hindsight we would glue the liner in and put in more fasteners. The glue bonds on the plywood held, it seems like the bottom of the mold distorted a little bit and the lead got behind the liner and that is what got it to break free. A little glue and a few more screws and I think it all would have stayed put. The plywood charred but all the layers were still intact.
Is that paint lead free? Cause you know, you could intoxicate yourselves...
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Note to the average youtube comment animal:
That was a joke
The label on that unmelted block made me wonder if it might be a chunk of kirksite. That stuff was used to make dies for stamping out prototype car parts. Quick to make and nowhere near as tough as steel dies, but workable if you only needed to make a couple dozen parts for test purposes.
Interesting, Babbit, Zinc and Silver were the other guesses. Silver would be sweet but we doubt it is silver.
I got curious enough to look it up. Kirksite is a mixture of zinc and aluminum, and melts at 750F, versus 621 for lead. You were probably close to melting it, but evidently not close enough.
SNAFU a lol.. or maybe FUBAR 😂😂😂😂
Would have “lead” to a bigger problem lol
Amurica