A great suggestion. Our code book (I'm in Ontario) has very specific breakdowns, but like most legal speak, without interpretation or examples it seems more difficult than it needs to be. But the concept of continuous load and how to strategize a service would be a triumph of content.
He is right. Also a 15 lighting circuit may only have 5 amps on it. Dryer can be 30 amps - but like an oven it cycles. TESLA charger is different. Know that sucker runs at 30/40 Amp full bore for hours. depending on charging.
@@donmclean1220 Ohhh Yea. There was a rush on a special 50A connector. The normal Levitron dryer / oven one would melt. Why? Dryers & ovens cycle on and off. For fast charging, Tesla charger opens up full bore and stays that way - long term. Could be for hours. It is why we stress test or use a load bank to certify a generator or electrical installation.
Yep. We also follow an 80% rule so a circuit running at max should be less than 80% of what the breaker says. Example: a dryer is on a 2-pole 30 amp breaker. The dryer will draw less than 24 amps on each leg of that circuit, most likely way less, or just above 80% of a 20 amp breaker (16a). I believe a dryer is right around 20-21 amps. If an air conditioner draws 12.2 amps, we’d run a 20 amp circuit because it’s just above 80% of a 15 amp circuit. This is for higher load dedicated appliance circuits. Most lighting and general receptacle circuits, like he was saying, are drawing far below what the breaker is rated for.
I had a 400 AMP system with two separate boxes, one on each end of the house. But that included the pool, hot tub, 4 Bath 3 fridges (ok..they don't really draw that much) and 3 zones of HVAC. We also had a line out for a pool heater, but decided later we would likely do solar for that..but I decided I didn't want this added to the roof. We were originally all electric but finally got gas run to the house. This helped.
My friend is a retired electrician who was trying to explain this to a friend of his who was buying her first house. I tried not to laugh, but she didn't get it. He got a chance to chuckle when I had to explain to her why a single 4 inch drain is more than enough for a 3 bathroom house. She's not dumb at all, but that kind of stuff just shoots right past her.
I had a lady-friend once who thought that when you set your house thermostat on a temperature, then that was the degree of the air coming out of the vents. 😊
It’s not only load diversity that is important in panel calculations, it’s also about what’s connected to each circuit. Some of those 15-20amp breakers you see will only ever draw 3 amps (ex. lighting circuits, receptacle circuits in sparsely used areas)
i agree. i used a circuit monitoring devices as i was worried in the begining for overloading my 200A main... i maxed my panel at 170Amp during winter. dryer + stove + hot water tank + boiler (water floor heater). when everything runs at the same time. you might hit close to it. so i contacted my boiler provider and disabled half the heater elements and im no longer worried about busting the main breaker capacity :p
@@VE3AVA not really as the boiler is oversized for the house. the only difference is it takes a few more minutes to bring the water to temperature for the floor heating but since the concrete slab need low temperature it is fine. the boiler was turning on/off too often due to reaching the max temperature too quickly. by disabling the elements. the boiler ran longer without cycling and eliminated some power spike. so at the end. this changed nothing on my end as the concrete slab (water heating) keep the temperature for quite some time due to thermal mass
Good point , ive used 4 programmable T-stats (as i only have 4 different zones of heat) at different times i have them use the boiler to max out as much heat . At first , now ive got it as 2 on , 2 off . Then 2 back on , its been working better , and I believe the gas bill has gone down . I dont know if it's beneficial for the boiler , but i was told it's designed to work better at full load ? Idk , i just know now the heat is better in all the rooms at 68 degrees . Then having them all on set to 70 . Took me a few heating season s to figure this out . I thought 💭 id share as you have inspired me to share from your information .😮
@@jamesortolano3983 on a side note. my boiler is electric only so it can pull as much as 84Amp (un modified) or 42Amp with 2 element disabled) on 240 volts. it's different from gas fired
Is that 3 phase 4 wire panel residential? Last time I checked into 3 phase service, it was quite expensive. Do you have a video on that Siemens Inhab Load Manger equipment? Never seen something like that.
Dont increase breaker size without first confirming your wiring can handle the increased heat from the potentially higher amperage. Breakers trip to keep your house from burning down.
Those are absolutely crazy numbers for people who live in 230/400V countries, my main fuse is 35A, a common 3 phase connection is 3x 25A, and that delivers more power than 200A at 110V. Losses and heating of connections scale with the square of the current, so 200A single phase gives 64 times the losses in the same resistance as 1 phase of 25A. Now what seems simpler, having 3 phases with relatively thin wires and connections, or a single one but with a 20 times lower resistance, to get the same total losses?
It's worth mentioning the 200 amps is for 240volts and not 120v. We have split phase power in North America and we are supplied 240v, with a center tapped neutral. Hence why our panels are bused. With a two pole breaker you get two hots from separate legs making 240volts.
To make matters worse: US uses Aluminium cables for house interconnect as well as internal cabling. And yes you find Aluminium cables in Europe, for high power installations supply lines. You know those where you already have like a 5 to 10 cm cable diameter supplying like 800 kVA unlike the normal house 3 phase 240 V 63 A using copper through and through.
@@darknase Aluminum is fine. It is not used for our general circuits though, those are all copper except for some high amp circuits but copper is usually used here as well. Aluminum was briefly used for this in the 70s and if you have a house with that you need to remove the wiring as the alloy isn't very good and causes issues.
With some people wanting electric vehicle chargers installed at their homes now, have you encountered instances where a 200A panel is no longer enough capacity? Like the house is already 100% electric (no gas or oil) and they want to add two 50A chargers that will be used at the same time?
There is a maximum per leg listed inbreeding panel cover. And that’s a 3 phase Wye service. Your water heater and range and any other 240V rated resistive device will consume 25% less power unless the elements are changed or the unit rewired.
I work at an apartment complex and sometimes the 150amp breaker at the meter trips without any of the breakers inside tripping. What causes that? They won't trip again. It will be a different apartment that does it. We have 400 units and it's always a different one that does it.
This is true. It surprised me to learn that you could put 42 twenty amp multipurpose receptacles on a 20 amp circuit. It has to do with whether the load is considered intermediate or constant and whether you have a two or three phase panel in calculating the load of the panel.
You missed a major point, that was a 3p panel, you can’t/shouldn’t exceed the amps on any phase. So that’s 200A x 120v x 3 legs. If you don’t manage the loading, you can overload one of the legs even though the overall kW capability is not fully used
Code book explains load demand calculations to size services. The costs between electrical panels is getting minimal in residential uses, you might as well just go ahead and put the 200 amp in. Commercial is another story. Industrial is another story. Sub station outside of a plant to run everything and all the multiple services inside the plant to run this and that is the ultimate.
same in our area. they are starting to install 400amp by default on new constructions. when i retrofitted my house. i wanted a 400 amp but could not as the triplex was not strong enough, the transformer needed to have a new fuse or upgrade as it string a series of multi plex houses. i was replacing my main breaker at that time as i was moving it to a new location in the house since i was rewiring it to remove old knob&tubes but at the end. i decided to re-install a new 200amp main panel, move the meter (was inside the house to outside), quite a challenge :)
With all the GFCI Requirements. Double pole equipment cost so much. Go gas appliances and dump a huge amount of loads. Space and water heaters and dryers are power hogs. And sometimes the range.
Funny part is as a Lineman apprentice, I consider it an art, sagging a triplex service wire to a weather head. When someone asks me if I can wire a house., I say NOPE
Code says 3watts of lighting per sq ft, plus 10,000watts, plus40% of all the non heating/cooling loads past 10,000watts, plus 100% of the heating or cooling load whichever is greater.
I have a few questions if any kind souls care to take a shot: 1) basically I was told that even if a system isn’t grounded (no ground rod to neutral etc at transformer and no grounding anywhere ) that if a power line that’s energized comes down and touches the earth, that it would still energize the earth. Now if energize means put the earth that it’s touching at its voltage then that’s surely true right? No matter if it’s soil, gravel, water right? A 120 v line comes down, and it will make the earth 120 v no matter what it’s touching? I’m not saying it will run current yet. Just saying that for instance, if we measure the neutral to the ground, we will get 120 volts right? So that’s the first question. 2) The second question is - let’s forget about voltage. We have this 120 v line touching the ground - let’s say it’s grass or soil or water, is it possible for a current to flow thru the very earth itself if there are no grounding rods or grounding stuff anywhere near by? I ask it this way cuz I’m tryna take away with “return to source” and still see if current would flow thru the earth.
Load calcs are really just a good estimate. Some AHJs will also make up their own methodology on how load calcs should be done leading to some wild estimates. Only truly accurate home load calc is to use the utility's API data to see real usage.
You add up all the breakers and multiply by 1.73 to get actual power consumption . The main breaker is only 1 single use circuit, usually the electric heat or stove 😮
Don't forget the square footage of living space as well. This is also a factor when calculating your load. Another video, another time... Load calculations!
Only thing a breaker does is say these wire can only handle this much before its not safe. I don't appreciate the industry as a whole using breakers with questionably high amp ratings for the size of wiring.
A lot of people don't explain and don't need to explain to homeowners that the electrician that comes in analyzes all your circuits available and adds up all the wattage and then figures out how much do you need all at once if ever used all at once and bases the panel on that
@@cameronramirez776 he probably meant heat pump referencing furnace in general. Heat pumps, yea, they can get into high amp situations for residential in the cold months engaging the emergency heat strips to assist the compressor.
@ you’re probably right, seems like furnace is becoming a broad term for all systems. The area i work in people still get confused when you don’t specify the two
Funny thing about codes... there only good for a new build. Years later some circuits are overloaded. Air splices, double taps, no flex conduit. The list goes on. That's just common knowledge among any actual working electrician. You can't fix stupid.
That’s also a 3 phase panel, so you have to count up the load on each phase. If it’s a 200 amp main feed, that means you can have up to 200 amps running on each phase before it’ll overload the feed. Usually you only want to load a panel up to 80%, which gives you 160 amps of 120v loads that you can have on each phase without overloading it, or 480A of total 120v load. It’s pretty hard to overload a panel in practice, especially with just 20a breakers.
And here in Sweden we have several 35A breakers at 240v in our breakerbox. I wonder what the max total load could be. Of course everything is 3 phase everywhere.
Quick Synopsis.... Basically you don't add up values but you actually do, but not in a way that you would think because it's more complicated than that. Lol.
What happens if you have every outlet used at 100 volts and all your machines running at the same time with all your lights on at the same time will it trip the circuit I've never had to do that but somebody did do that once and they used every single plug in their house at once and during a party had all the lights on plus the washing machine the dryer in the dishwasher and the disposal all running to see if it would trip
But then again if you try and teach someone that don't know nothing about electrical then you're going to confuse them anyway so stop teaching other than what you do for us electricians which is helpful 😊
So inwas taught a hillbilly math on load calculations add up everything big that might be running at one time and that gets you into the ball park example is the wife hair dryer the hot water heater and stove probably aren't on at the same time but the stove the dryer and hot water heater might run together
Lots of folks have an electric resistive heater. Lots of folks also have resistive emergency heat on their heat pump systems for those days when it's so cold the heat pump can't extract any heat from outside and just constantly freezes up. Those resistive heating elements draw a TON of current, so much so that they need sequencer devices to turn on and get to temp one at a time to avoid popping a breaker.
@@mannys9130 but that is an electric heater or a heat pump. A furnace burns fuel i.e. oil or gas and would not pull 40-50 amps. That being said I'm sure he just misspoke and just didn't want to reshoot the video.
That's why electricians should get paid what they expect because they have to do all that load calculation otherwise they're like the people that work with my crew who don't even twist the wires before they put the caps on and I know those guys are idiots and lazy
Next video "How to make load calculations" you're welcome.
Hopefully I'm interested in learning.
A great suggestion. Our code book (I'm in Ontario) has very specific breakdowns, but like most legal speak, without interpretation or examples it seems more difficult than it needs to be. But the concept of continuous load and how to strategize a service would be a triumph of content.
You're already on youtube. Look up how to do electrical panel load calcs.
They are outdated anyway with all the new electronics and EVs. We really need monitoring and power limiting devices.
@@360_tours Then it's YOUR JOB to go REWIRE those well over 2million homes that still have "OUTDATED" circuits. I heard you volunteer! lol
He is right. Also a 15 lighting circuit may only have 5 amps on it.
Dryer can be 30 amps - but like an oven it cycles.
TESLA charger is different. Know that sucker runs at 30/40 Amp full bore for hours. depending on charging.
20 years ago a dozen 100 watt incandescent lights would nearly max out the 15 amp circuit...but nowadays a dozen LED's barely take an amp or two.
More like 50 to 60 amps circuits.
A lot of EV owners are learning about electric loads now.
@@donmclean1220 Ohhh Yea. There was a rush on a special 50A connector. The normal Levitron dryer / oven one would melt. Why? Dryers & ovens cycle on and off. For fast charging, Tesla charger opens up full bore and stays that way - long term. Could be for hours.
It is why we stress test or use a load bank to certify a generator or electrical installation.
Yep. We also follow an 80% rule so a circuit running at max should be less than 80% of what the breaker says. Example: a dryer is on a 2-pole 30 amp breaker. The dryer will draw less than 24 amps on each leg of that circuit, most likely way less, or just above 80% of a 20 amp breaker (16a). I believe a dryer is right around 20-21 amps. If an air conditioner draws 12.2 amps, we’d run a 20 amp circuit because it’s just above 80% of a 15 amp circuit. This is for higher load dedicated appliance circuits. Most lighting and general receptacle circuits, like he was saying, are drawing far below what the breaker is rated for.
This is also true in the telephone industry. There are only enough circuits available to handle about 10-15% of the customer base simultaneously.
Explanation with clarity.
The disconnects are sized for the circuits not for the devices.
I had a 400 AMP system with two separate boxes, one on each end of the house. But that included the pool, hot tub, 4 Bath 3 fridges (ok..they don't really draw that much) and 3 zones of HVAC. We also had a line out for a pool heater, but decided later we would likely do solar for that..but I decided I didn't want this added to the roof. We were originally all electric but finally got gas run to the house. This helped.
did your house have it's own power plant to run it? i can't even picture your electric bill. must have been in the thousands.
Dustin you bring so much into the industry with your knowledge God bless you!
Well, DUH....
Man, i soo wish I could work with this man even for just a week, (for free). Even if its just to pick his brain. Love your channel man. 🙏🏽
My friend is a retired electrician who was trying to explain this to a friend of his who was buying her first house. I tried not to laugh, but she didn't get it. He got a chance to chuckle when I had to explain to her why a single 4 inch drain is more than enough for a 3 bathroom house. She's not dumb at all, but that kind of stuff just shoots right past her.
I had a lady-friend once who thought that when you set your house thermostat on a temperature, then that was the degree of the air coming out of the vents. 😊
That’s actually a good analogy
which is why I subbed my house with a 100 amp panel. I left 200 amps outside in the main for the garage/farm/dedicated outdoor crap.
I love how simple you explain it!
It’s not only load diversity that is important in panel calculations, it’s also about what’s connected to each circuit. Some of those 15-20amp breakers you see will only ever draw 3 amps (ex. lighting circuits, receptacle circuits in sparsely used areas)
AC and furnace don't run at the same time
i agree. i used a circuit monitoring devices as i was worried in the begining for overloading my 200A main... i maxed my panel at 170Amp during winter. dryer + stove + hot water tank + boiler (water floor heater). when everything runs at the same time. you might hit close to it. so i contacted my boiler provider and disabled half the heater elements and im no longer worried about busting the main breaker capacity :p
Interesting solution. Have you noticed any practical disadvantages in your boiler use? Curious
@@VE3AVA not really as the boiler is oversized for the house. the only difference is it takes a few more minutes to bring the water to temperature for the floor heating but since the concrete slab need low temperature it is fine. the boiler was turning on/off too often due to reaching the max temperature too quickly. by disabling the elements. the boiler ran longer without cycling and eliminated some power spike. so at the end. this changed nothing on my end as the concrete slab (water heating) keep the temperature for quite some time due to thermal mass
Good point , ive used 4 programmable T-stats (as i only have 4 different zones of heat) at different times i have them use the boiler to max out as much heat .
At first , now ive got it as 2 on , 2 off .
Then 2 back on , its been working better , and I believe the gas bill has gone down .
I dont know if it's beneficial for the boiler , but i was told it's designed to work better at full load ?
Idk , i just know now the heat is better in all the rooms at 68 degrees . Then having them all on set to 70 .
Took me a few heating season s to figure this out .
I thought 💭 id share as you have inspired me to share from your information .😮
@jamesortolano3983 thanks for sharing.
@@jamesortolano3983 on a side note. my boiler is electric only so it can pull as much as 84Amp (un modified) or 42Amp with 2 element disabled) on 240 volts. it's different from gas fired
Is that 3 phase 4 wire panel residential? Last time I checked into 3 phase service, it was quite expensive. Do you have a video on that Siemens Inhab Load Manger equipment? Never seen something like that.
Thanks for the info 👍 appreciate it
THis was a good explination. I have a newer home (2022) but I trip breakers all the time in my office. 15 amp and should have gone with 20amp
Dont increase breaker size without first confirming your wiring can handle the increased heat from the potentially higher amperage. Breakers trip to keep your house from burning down.
@natasharomanoff4744 I also heard that from someone. Good point. Just because it's a new home doesn't mean it can handle it.
That helped explain a lot. Thank you
Those are absolutely crazy numbers for people who live in 230/400V countries, my main fuse is 35A, a common 3 phase connection is 3x 25A, and that delivers more power than 200A at 110V.
Losses and heating of connections scale with the square of the current, so 200A single phase gives 64 times the losses in the same resistance as 1 phase of 25A.
Now what seems simpler, having 3 phases with relatively thin wires and connections, or a single one but with a 20 times lower resistance, to get the same total losses?
It's worth mentioning the 200 amps is for 240volts and not 120v. We have split phase power in North America and we are supplied 240v, with a center tapped neutral. Hence why our panels are bused. With a two pole breaker you get two hots from separate legs making 240volts.
To make matters worse: US uses Aluminium cables for house interconnect as well as internal cabling.
And yes you find Aluminium cables in Europe, for high power installations supply lines. You know those where you already have like a 5 to 10 cm cable diameter supplying like 800 kVA unlike the normal house 3 phase 240 V 63 A using copper through and through.
@@darknase Aluminum is fine. It is not used for our general circuits though, those are all copper except for some high amp circuits but copper is usually used here as well. Aluminum was briefly used for this in the 70s and if you have a house with that you need to remove the wiring as the alloy isn't very good and causes issues.
With some people wanting electric vehicle chargers installed at their homes now, have you encountered instances where a 200A panel is no longer enough capacity? Like the house is already 100% electric (no gas or oil) and they want to add two 50A chargers that will be used at the same time?
There is a maximum per leg listed inbreeding panel cover. And that’s a 3 phase Wye service. Your water heater and range and any other 240V rated resistive device will consume 25% less power unless the elements are changed or the unit rewired.
I work at an apartment complex and sometimes the 150amp breaker at the meter trips without any of the breakers inside tripping. What causes that? They won't trip again. It will be a different apartment that does it. We have 400 units and it's always a different one that does it.
This is true. It surprised me to learn that you could put 42 twenty amp multipurpose receptacles on a 20 amp circuit. It has to do with whether the load is considered intermediate or constant and whether you have a two or three phase panel in calculating the load of the panel.
Thank for this information
Good explanation.
The outlet next to the dryer doesn't look like a outlet or house hold or commercial
EU socket.
You missed a major point, that was a 3p panel, you can’t/shouldn’t exceed the amps on any phase. So that’s 200A x 120v x 3 legs.
If you don’t manage the loading, you can overload one of the legs even though the overall kW capability is not fully used
Wow. Pretty basic stuff. I guess not common knowledge so I guess it’s appropriate. Your videos as always appreciated.
i love how here he's talking about a 200A panel while where i live most of us run their whole house under a single 16A breaker
Nice. I need a new panel. Almost all the breakers are the mini half thickness ones and it's over capacity. 😅
Just need to add a sub panel as long as the amps aren't at capacity.
@psywiped I'll replace the whole thing.
Im always amazed when i check the draw on some of these massive houses. Its so little
Code book explains load demand calculations to size services. The costs between electrical panels is getting minimal in residential uses, you might as well just go ahead and put the 200 amp in. Commercial is another story. Industrial is another story. Sub station outside of a plant to run everything and all the multiple services inside the plant to run this and that is the ultimate.
Could he make a Short or a Video that could at least do an overview or does it get really complex?
Get a 225a so it's good for a sustained 180a load
same in our area. they are starting to install 400amp by default on new constructions. when i retrofitted my house. i wanted a 400 amp but could not as the triplex was not strong enough, the transformer needed to have a new fuse or upgrade as it string a series of multi plex houses.
i was replacing my main breaker at that time as i was moving it to a new location in the house since i was rewiring it to remove old knob&tubes
but at the end. i decided to re-install a new 200amp main panel, move the meter (was inside the house to outside), quite a challenge :)
With all the GFCI Requirements. Double pole equipment cost so much. Go gas appliances and dump a huge amount of loads. Space and water heaters and dryers are power hogs. And sometimes the range.
Funny part is as a Lineman apprentice, I consider it an art, sagging a triplex service wire to a weather head.
When someone asks me if I can wire a house., I say NOPE
Code says 3watts of lighting per sq ft, plus 10,000watts, plus40% of all the non heating/cooling loads past 10,000watts, plus 100% of the heating or cooling load whichever is greater.
Nice explaining
I have a few questions if any kind souls care to take a shot:
1)
basically I was told that even if a system isn’t grounded (no ground rod to neutral etc at transformer and no grounding anywhere ) that if a power line that’s energized comes down and touches the earth, that it would still energize the earth. Now if energize means put the earth that it’s touching at its voltage then that’s surely true right? No matter if it’s soil, gravel, water right? A 120 v line comes down, and it will make the earth 120 v no matter what it’s touching? I’m not saying it will run current yet. Just saying that for instance, if we measure the neutral to the ground, we will get 120 volts right? So that’s the first question.
2)
The second question is - let’s forget about voltage. We have this 120 v line touching the ground - let’s say it’s grass or soil or water, is it possible for a current to flow thru the very earth itself if there are no grounding rods or grounding stuff anywhere near by? I ask it this way cuz I’m tryna take away with “return to source” and still see if current would flow thru the earth.
Also it's 200 amps service on each side. You'd add the loads on each side, and if it's about 400 total then it's about 200 per side, perfect.
The electrical, HVAC, and plumbing industry could use an honest company.
A furnace is 15 or 20 amps. An air handler with a heat kit would be 30-90 amps
Load calcs are really just a good estimate. Some AHJs will also make up their own methodology on how load calcs should be done leading to some wild estimates. Only truly accurate home load calc is to use the utility's API data to see real usage.
Also breakers are supposed to be sized about 20%larger than FLA
You add up all the breakers and multiply by 1.73 to get actual power consumption . The main breaker is only 1 single use circuit, usually the electric heat or stove 😮
Gotta say, i DO like having 200 Amp service to my little apartment.... i like to do things that draw big loads....
It's a 200 amp 3-phase panel theoretically Ace phase who would be able to carry 160 amps
How would a oil or gas furnace draw 40 or 50 amps that don’t make sense
30A on a Dryer ???
My Dryer does 6A
I've seen some that go to 10A
What dryer sucks 30A ?
Don't forget the square footage of living space as well. This is also a factor when calculating your load.
Another video, another time...
Load calculations!
Only thing a breaker does is say these wire can only handle this much before its not safe.
I don't appreciate the industry as a whole using breakers with questionably high amp ratings for the size of wiring.
What. Who does that
If they do it's not to code.
A lot of people don't explain and don't need to explain to homeowners that the electrician that comes in analyzes all your circuits available and adds up all the wattage and then figures out how much do you need all at once if ever used all at once and bases the panel on that
This panel is clean 😮 Wowzyyy 🎉🎉❤❤.
People are not stupid, you can explain what's coefficient of simultaneity to size the panel.
You make a short but talking about what needs to happen but you never actually explain how or what to do. Thanks. Clear as mud
Furnaces do not draw that much. Electric air handlers can tho
50 amp furnace. Is it all electric?
50 amps on a furnace??
Heat pump or electric furnace.
50 amp furnace is crazy more like 5-10 amps. The blower motor is rated to like 5.5
@@cameronramirez776 he probably meant heat pump referencing furnace in general. Heat pumps, yea, they can get into high amp situations for residential in the cold months engaging the emergency heat strips to assist the compressor.
@ you’re probably right, seems like furnace is becoming a broad term for all systems. The area i work in people still get confused when you don’t specify the two
My daughters new 2024 Carrier/ACiQ 96% 2 stage 80,000 btu gas furnace is rated at 13.5 amps.
@@TedTedness your daughter got herself a fancy unit there, keep up on the maintenance!
Electric resistance heat forced air is common in areas where they don't have severe winters. They draw much more than natural gas or propane units.
Demand factor.
40-50 amps for a furnace? Must be using 10K worth of heat strips. My gas furnace runs off a 15 amp circuit.
50 Amps on a furnace and 30 on a washing machine? That's too much, is that becuase you use 120 volts instead of 240 ?
I'm not out of capacity , but , still need a new panel .
Federal Pacific . Nuff said .
Could be a zinsco lol
If you have FPE you better GET FPE (Fire Protection Equipment)
Aw he thinks my computer doesn’t use a lot of electricity 😂
Good thing I upgraded from 225A to 400A.
Rare to see 3 phase in a residential setting
My neighbor has 6 phase
Ohhhh. you have never had a house full of teenagers and grampa Joe out in the garage😅
All fun and games till you find a bunch of 20 amp breakers with 14 Guage wire with 6 splitters on each outlet
Turn on all the lights, the oven, microwave, heat, everything. Let's see what you're drawing. We'll go from there.
Ohms law i think is a more efficient explanation
Funny thing about codes... there only good for a new build. Years later some circuits are overloaded. Air splices, double taps, no flex conduit. The list goes on. That's just common knowledge among any actual working electrician. You can't fix stupid.
Diversity of load in action.
That’s also a 3 phase panel, so you have to count up the load on each phase. If it’s a 200 amp main feed, that means you can have up to 200 amps running on each phase before it’ll overload the feed. Usually you only want to load a panel up to 80%, which gives you 160 amps of 120v loads that you can have on each phase without overloading it, or 480A of total 120v load. It’s pretty hard to overload a panel in practice, especially with just 20a breakers.
And here in Sweden we have several 35A breakers at 240v in our breakerbox. I wonder what the max total load could be. Of course everything is 3 phase everywhere.
What he meant to say was heatpump not furnace
30 amps on a dryer gheesh. 130 volt is brutal
You have a real problem if your furnace pulls 40 amps.
Maybe you mean heat pump or ac?
250 Amps should be beyond plenty for any house that I know of unless....you are a cstle owner )))
Wow if you have a furnace pulling 40 amps you better start running 😂
Quick Synopsis.... Basically you don't add up values but you actually do, but not in a way that you would think because it's more complicated than that. Lol.
*Me trying to get everything on at once and burn my house down out of spite*
Plus that’s 200 amp per phase
So technically there is 600 amp available
EVs are going to add a load to the load calculation if there are two EVs
Gas Furnace, 40-50 amps? Huh?
Does the breaker switch off at %100+%50? Like regular fuses or no?
40/50 amps on a furnace? WTF
40 amp furnace!
Holy blow dryer!
Not till it's using all 200a or 54 circuits 😂
All that exposed wire makes me not want to listen to a single thing you say 😂😂😂
It’s called the “diversity factor”.
What happens if you have every outlet used at 100 volts and all your machines running at the same time with all your lights on at the same time will it trip the circuit I've never had to do that but somebody did do that once and they used every single plug in their house at once and during a party had all the lights on plus the washing machine the dryer in the dishwasher and the disposal all running to see if it would trip
But then again if you try and teach someone that don't know nothing about electrical then you're going to confuse them anyway so stop teaching other than what you do for us electricians which is helpful 😊
50 amps for a furnace?? Ummmmmmm
Yes, Geothermal on a very cold night can activate the Backup Heating Element = 50 amps @ 240 Volts
So inwas taught a hillbilly math on load calculations add up everything big that might be running at one time and that gets you into the ball park example is the wife hair dryer the hot water heater and stove probably aren't on at the same time but the stove the dryer and hot water heater might run together
80 % of 200 amps.
Haahaahahahahaaaa 50 amps on my furnace, bro it's oil, it's got a fan and the transformer. I'd be surprised if it pulls 20 amps
Lots of folks have an electric resistive heater. Lots of folks also have resistive emergency heat on their heat pump systems for those days when it's so cold the heat pump can't extract any heat from outside and just constantly freezes up. Those resistive heating elements draw a TON of current, so much so that they need sequencer devices to turn on and get to temp one at a time to avoid popping a breaker.
@@mannys9130 but that is an electric heater or a heat pump. A furnace burns fuel i.e. oil or gas and would not pull 40-50 amps. That being said I'm sure he just misspoke and just didn't want to reshoot the video.
Literally no one thinks that.
That's why electricians should get paid what they expect because they have to do all that load calculation otherwise they're like the people that work with my crew who don't even twist the wires before they put the caps on and I know those guys are idiots and lazy
.... not sure whatcha mean by pc being a low load as i believe my pc alone is closer to a dryer when its gaming :p
Just dont get an electric tankless water heater the big ones require 3 50 amp breakers and have a 120 amp dray everytime you turn the hot water on
no eh hmmm good luck, in that time of use its getting hot keep repeating thermal loading nice surprise after a while
No gas furnace runs at 40-50 amps, ever!