Honestly I’ve not had a chance to do any troubleshooting since I shot this video. Busy weekends if kids soccer have kept me from getting down here to our cabin. I have all new equipment I plan to hook up including a PoE switch and new access point.
No one shows their IP configs in any of these wireless bridge videos. I bought an ULNA wireless bridge and it's setup with 192.168.255.xxx depending on the channel that selected, and none of my routers or devices are configured for that subnet. Did you have to redo your IPs from the default 192.168.1.x or 192.168.0.x setups that are standard for your routers and end devices? I am connecting chords just like the manual says and the devices are connecting with a strong signal, but I cannot get to the internet from the B device. Any ideas?
I got one of these for my wife. Was searching videos and found you, haha. This might be above my pay grade. Can I just link the receiving end to a router to reboost WiFi in barn?
No issues at all, i was just sent a second one to test. They had different speeds but frankly the speed was irrelevant as my speeds at my cabin cannot support the higher one. Both products are good and work well.
This is what my ubiquiti AP gets and it costs 200$ it actually gets around 50/15... still not really happy with that, It's about 100 feet away with 2 trees and a wall between. Real world is a lot different than what the numbers on the box say. 600 feet, yeah right.
Things operating at 2.4 and 5 GHz dont do well to penetrate walls and if the wall has a metal siding you just have a big reflector. I good way to think about this stuff is how a microwave oven works to keep microwaves inside the oven. If the thin metal oven chamber keeps in high power microwaves (1KW or more) then it can definitely keep micro power WiFi microwaves (up to 200 mW) out, same goes for metal siding on a wall, home, barn, or shed.
What if the building I need the WiFi at is approximately 200 feet away, but there are trees between the house and barn….will that cause a problem since in the summer, the trees are obstructing a direct view….?????
Yes, but is not advisable. Some of these device can output quite a lot of power and must be mounted out of reach of people. Of course you can use devices rated for indoor use instead.
ULNA Wifi Bridge on Amazon - amzn.to/3JLkfO1 ULNA Wifi Bridge Mounting Bracket on Amazon - amzn.to/3LKf7MA If this review was helpful to you, you can purchase this product using our Amazon affiliate link above and we will receive a small commission at no added cost to you or visit our Amazon Influencer Shop here: amzn.to/3MEHrQq to see all of our other favorite products
If you set the channel bandwidth in a bridge to 20 MHz wide then your throughput max speed will be like 150 bps, 40 MHz will give you 300 Mbps and so on but be aware of your bridge hardware and specs. Many of these VHT (Very High Transport - high data rate) bridges have dual 100 Mbps Lan ports, some have gigabit port but only one and you have to pay attention to which one it is (usually the one marked WAN or A). One thing that is lacking with these cheap bridges is the option for PoE passthrough.
No idea on that one but for me trenching a line really isn’t an option and a separate cable line would cost me another monthly fee. $50 a year is $4/month. Seems high for a little device like this but have no clue what it is.
may be a buck a year man, this are POE @24v and less than a .2 of an amp. you could run one of this off a 100watt solar panel and a 12v battery for as long as the battery can live.
They are 24 volts DC and draw like 1/2 an amp or less if you turn the TX power down, meaning you can run them off a couple deep cycle SLA batteries and a solar panel setup for it.
The systems I've seen draw 3-7W per POE device. At 3W, each bridge will use 3x24hrs =72Wh/day or 26 kWh/year. At my local rate of 12c per kWh, that would cost me $3.12 per year for each of the two units. Brands that use more power, like those drawing up to 7W, would cost $7.32 per year for each bridge. That's not likely to break the bank. I hope this helps!
bought one. does not work. the setup screens take a full minute to load every time you click a button. also. they dont connect so complete waste of time and money.
Either got a bad unit or it’s a PEBKAC Error. Either way sorry to hear that, mine works great and has been since the day I installed it. I’d suggest swapping it out for another and trying again.
Great video, exactly my scenario. Did you figure out why the access point was not working well?
Honestly I’ve not had a chance to do any troubleshooting since I shot this video. Busy weekends if kids soccer have kept me from getting down here to our cabin. I have all new equipment I plan to hook up including a PoE switch and new access point.
No one shows their IP configs in any of these wireless bridge videos. I bought an ULNA wireless bridge and it's setup with 192.168.255.xxx depending on the channel that selected, and none of my routers or devices are configured for that subnet. Did you have to redo your IPs from the default 192.168.1.x or 192.168.0.x setups that are standard for your routers and end devices? I am connecting chords just like the manual says and the devices are connecting with a strong signal, but I cannot get to the internet from the B device. Any ideas?
I got one of these for my wife. Was searching videos and found you, haha. This might be above my pay grade. Can I just link the receiving end to a router to reboost WiFi in barn?
Ha! Yeh that's what I did, cat6 cable from receiving end to a router/access point in the barn... Let me know how it works for you!
What was the issue with the UEEVII wireless bridge, you did a video on earlier?
No issues at all, i was just sent a second one to test. They had different speeds but frankly the speed was irrelevant as my speeds at my cabin cannot support the higher one. Both products are good and work well.
Appreciate the reply.
This is what my ubiquiti AP gets and it costs 200$ it actually gets around 50/15... still not really happy with that,
It's about 100 feet away with 2 trees and a wall between.
Real world is a lot different than what the numbers on the box say. 600 feet, yeah right.
Things operating at 2.4 and 5 GHz dont do well to penetrate walls and if the wall has a metal siding you just have a big reflector. I good way to think about this stuff is how a microwave oven works to keep microwaves inside the oven. If the thin metal oven chamber keeps in high power microwaves (1KW or more) then it can definitely keep micro power WiFi microwaves (up to 200 mW) out, same goes for metal siding on a wall, home, barn, or shed.
What if the building I need the WiFi at is approximately 200 feet away, but there are trees between the house and barn….will that cause a problem since in the summer, the trees are obstructing a direct view….?????
I can’t say for sure but I suspect it will degrade and or possibly block the signal. Instructions suggest an unobstructed line of sight
Will they transmitt thru glass? I have line of sight about 499 feet. I would like tomount the units inside the window on eachend
I’ve not tried that. I suspect it would but cannot confirm definitively.
Yes, but is not advisable.
Some of these device can output quite a lot of power and must be mounted out of reach of people.
Of course you can use devices rated for indoor use instead.
ULNA Wifi Bridge on Amazon - amzn.to/3JLkfO1
ULNA Wifi Bridge Mounting Bracket on Amazon - amzn.to/3LKf7MA
If this review was helpful to you, you can purchase this product using our Amazon affiliate link above and we will receive a small commission at no added cost to you or visit our Amazon Influencer Shop here: amzn.to/3MEHrQq
to see all of our other favorite products
has this had any effect on the bandwidth in your main/house router?
no negative effect thus far
If you set the channel bandwidth in a bridge to 20 MHz wide then your throughput max speed will be like 150 bps, 40 MHz will give you 300 Mbps and so on but be aware of your bridge hardware and specs. Many of these VHT (Very High Transport - high data rate) bridges have dual 100 Mbps Lan ports, some have gigabit port but only one and you have to pay attention to which one it is (usually the one marked WAN or A). One thing that is lacking with these cheap bridges is the option for PoE passthrough.
How much electricity will this consume each month? If it is convenient to install, but costs $50/year to run, perhaps rethink?
No idea on that one but for me trenching a line really isn’t an option and a separate cable line would cost me another monthly fee. $50 a year is $4/month. Seems high for a little device like this but have no clue what it is.
may be a buck a year man, this are POE @24v and less than a .2 of an amp. you could run one of this off a 100watt solar panel and a 12v battery for as long as the battery can live.
They are 24 volts DC and draw like 1/2 an amp or less if you turn the TX power down, meaning you can run them off a couple deep cycle SLA batteries and a solar panel setup for it.
probably less than a buck a year@@TdrSld
The systems I've seen draw 3-7W per POE device. At 3W, each bridge will use 3x24hrs =72Wh/day or 26 kWh/year. At my local rate of 12c per kWh, that would cost me $3.12 per year for each of the two units. Brands that use more power, like those drawing up to 7W, would cost $7.32 per year for each bridge. That's not likely to break the bank. I hope this helps!
bought one. does not work. the setup screens take a full minute to load every time you click a button. also. they dont connect so complete waste of time and money.
Either got a bad unit or it’s a PEBKAC Error. Either way sorry to hear that, mine works great and has been since the day I installed it. I’d suggest swapping it out for another and trying again.