When I build our son's music studio I used roxul for every wall before I drywalled. I had some leftover and did exactly what you did and it helped alot. I scored some speaker cloth super cheap at Joann's Fabric using some crazy coupon code combined with some other code. So the only real expense was the wood I had to buy. He's been using them for five years years now and it's made a big difference. Now if he would only produce music with his own sounds I could use him on my label. - John
For anyone finding this video in the future that needs help: 3" thickness really isn't that much. It works well for high frequencies!.. but.. the mid to low end not so much. To counteract that, there's a method to increasing your absorption affectiveness without needing to buy thicker material. Behold, ❇ air gaps ❇ Creating a space of air from the back of the panel to the wall increases the material that sound has to travel through. Basically, 3" material + 3" air gap = 6" of absorption. It is true however, that having 6" in material would be better than material + air, but the most common mineral wools are around 3.5" - 5".
@@vuhlez When I made mine a couple years ago, I just used some rubber feet on the back of my frame and it makes them sit off the wall. IMO 3" air gap in the back isn't necessary, these sit 3/4" off the wall and have worked perfectly for voice recordings in my office. But I'm not doing music recording, so maybe I'm missing something.
@@bobziroll vocals sit in the mid to high range frequencies, meaning that they dont require bass absorbtion so u dont need super thick panels if u only do vocals
Double up 2 bats of rockwool for a 6" thick panel. It will be way more effective, especially in the lower frequencies. Also adding an air gap behind the panel increases effectiveness.
Looks good! Rockwool's a much better choice than fiberglass. Just make sure you get the "unfaced" version and not the type that's got a Kraft face for stapling...
thank you so much for saying the basic wood measurements and stuff. I have never purchased wood before and most people just assume I am smart enough to math it out (IM NOT LOL) maybe I am idk I never thought about it but now I don't have to!
Hey- for anyone building this to prevent what happened to me; first off, cheers to making this video! everything worked out except the size of the wood. the 1x3 studs all wound up being only 2.5 inches instead so I had to rebuy all the wood. i wound up buying 1x4 instead cause those are actually 3.5 and the rockwool fit perfect in that
I just visited Lowes and looked at the Rockwool Safe'n'Sound material. It's about 3 inches thick, but pretty soft and pliable. Seems like it very easily could be put into the 1x3 wood frames. I think that 1x4 might end up having the Rockwool be a bit loose. I think I'd rather have it just a teeny bit snug, held in by the landscaping fabric and the bedsheet fabric ...
Hands down the most helpful video on this process! I do have a question. Most other videos suggest 1x4s instead of 1x3s while still using the same insulation. Is there a reason/difference for this?
One reason is that you leave a 1" gap at the rear to create an air gap behind the insulation. This would need additional wood to create the perimeter bed to retain the insulation but would allow the acoustic waves to pass through the insulation then pass through air, hit a wall and get partially absorbed and then partially reflected back through the air gap and back through the insulation, hence using it twice. without the air gap it would work so effectively.
You can do them for about 40$ a panel or cheaper. Check local marketplace as sometimes small builders will sell them finished for 60$ and that is worth it when you factor in your time
Ive been installed 12 of 16x24x4 base 3" rockwool safe and sound in my 15'x11' room. Its still not enough. The bass is still behind of my expectation. I think I should install more in ceiling. it is not as easy as people think.
Pro tip, don’t sweat your acoustic treatment quite as much. Not saying don’t treat at all, but also calibrate your speakers! Makes a MASSIVE difference. Use Sonarworks SoundID reference. Then your speakers will compensate for whatever inconsistencies are in your room and will sound absolutely incredible.
Can you explain more? Do you mean to hang these panels from ceiling or wall but don't attach directly to the ceiling wall (leave an air gap between these panels and the ceiling where they will hang from?
@@marcuswelsh2741 Exactly leave an air gap, not all the way tight to the wall. Use stand-off's to keep them away. Stand-off's can be anything from threaded rod to just 2x2 wood.
@@therealbeepo There are many ways to attach them to walls and ceilings that would be a whole article, so your going to have to research that part to see what others have done. For example a simple way to attach to a wall is using large "hook & eye" metal hooks you can get at Home Depot. If you get the 1" size you put the "eye" in the wall and the "hooks" on each top corner of your panel, you attach the top two portions like a picture hanging on the wall for about 2" of total separation from the wall (which should be adequate for most home studios) and for the bottom just use a small block of 2x2 on the back bottom of your panel and it can just rest against the wall but will keep it propped out. Maybe some felt on it if it vibrates against the wall. Good luck.
@@Cpt_Adama thanks again!! I'm actually making a dance and singing studio in Thailand.. So these will be on the ceiling to absorb some of the sound in each room. I appreciate the advice!
Are you from Canada or somewhere around the great lakes? If thats the case, the "outside" gave it away 😂 Great video mate, stripped down, plain and simple to understand!
Yes, the Rockwool within each bag is all the same size once it expands. Though you can buy different bags at different sizes, the pieces inside each bag are the same as the others in the same bag :)
😂 that cheat sheet plug at the end let’s me know I’m not really the target demographic for this video. I’m a middle school teacher. My classroom is just a concrete box, and think these will really help.
Do a google search for “acoustic panels” and you find a lot of options. But they can be pretty pricey. Acoustimac and ATS are two well regarded brands.
I'm no expert, but I've been looking for the answer to that same question. From what I've found online, 3" is good for treating highs and high mids, but you'll want 4-6" thick to treat low frequencies. I'm planning on doing 3" on the walls and making 6" thick for corner bass traps.
You should be okay with 3 inch panels around your walls unless you want perfect treatment. If you need more, you can just get wider wood and thicker insulation and do the same thing. What you might want to do is create two thicker ones to put diagonally in the corners behind your recording spot for as basstraps, those are usually thicker.
3" panels would be great if you use an air gap method. Having space between the back of the panel and the wall has shown to increase the affectiveness of the panel. 3" thickness? Have a 3" gap. Basically 6" of absorption. Although, it is true that having that 6" in material instead of material+air is better, but working with what you have is all that matters lol.
When hanging even thick panels, having an air gap improves efficiency. We don’t hang clouds tight to the ceiling, and that makes angling panels a snap.
How is this easy for newbies? It's great and fun to look at but I need already made ones. I'll try those first then do this if they don't work. Thanks so much for the video. I truly appreciate your hard work showing us. :). Happy New Year!
Because all you need is a saw, a drill and a stapler. This is super simple and you can have these put together in a couple of hours no problem. But if you need already made ones, you don't need a tutorial... Just go buy them? I don't understand the complaint lol
@@BlatantlySwedishPGN I don’t have those tools. So, from my prospective it was a lot. I see why we are seeing it differently. My starting point was further away from yours. Thanks. when I’m at your level that will be easy for me. Thanks for the tutorial. As a certified teacher I know that just cause it’s easy for the teacher doesn’t mean it’s easy for the student. We’ve gotta tell them that it’s easy when you have these items and know how to use them. Because if they have a learning curve to just start then It isn’t easy for them. It’s subjective until you agree on a staring point. I hope that helped for future tutorials. 😊 God bless you.
@@PatriceDEvans oh, yeah, absolutely. I apologize if I sounded harsh. Most households will have most of the tools used, or at least you'll have a neighbor/friend with some tools. Hope you find a solution that works for you either way!
The reason it's great is because it's kind on the wallet. One professional panel would be the price of around 6 you could make yourself for nearly the same effectiveness. Not being handy or having tools available really sucks, but if you do or know someone who is or does, REALLY could save you from spending hundreds to thousands of dollars!
If it’s not disturb vigorously you shouldn’t have a problem. Plus the bed sheet is a little thicker which prevents particles from coming through. This was my concerned at first as well.
just remember that if you have the space you want to tame the bass more than the highs.. So the 6" Rockwool about 2"s from the wall with do more for the bass & at the same time will also do the mids & highs. anything less wont touch anything lower 120hz which is the most important to getting a clean mix & treating the room. the 3" panels really only deal with your voice even with an air gap. ALL panels much have an air gap behind them!!! Ideally if you have a 1" panel it needs a 1" gap, a 3" panel a 3" gap.. 6" panel 6" gap.. ect.. if you control the lows the rest will fall into place. 3" panel with a 3" gap is not 6" of absorption its 3" working correctly. Obviously you have to make it work for you & no gaps will sound good but only 50% as effective for mids to his & completely useless for the lows. at 160Hz the wave length Is 2.14m long.. at 40Hz its 8.58m.. at 20Hz its 17.2m so a 3" panel is not going to do much! Keep this in mind..
Nonsense! For many years I have seen people sticking DIY panels all over the room, thinking that this is an acoustic treatment. It really would be acoustic treatment if our ears didn't go below 500 Hz. But the problem is that we do go lower than that, so solutions like that are like shooting an elephant with a slingshot. The problem with using standard solutions is that you can leave the reverberation time in the different frequency bands very unbalanced. Porous materials leave virtually untreated below 300-400 Hz, making the reverberation time for mid and high frequencies very low, and for low frequencies very high. It is more interesting to achieve a compensated reverberation time for all frequency bands, even if this is higher, than a very low reverberation time for medium and high frequencies and a very high reverberation time for low frequencies.
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@audioedges do you recommend the same bedsheet fabric for making bass traps?
When I build our son's music studio I used roxul for every wall before I drywalled. I had some leftover and did exactly what you did and it helped alot. I scored some speaker cloth super cheap at Joann's Fabric using some crazy coupon code combined with some other code. So the only real expense was the wood I had to buy. He's been using them for five years years now and it's made a big difference. Now if he would only produce music with his own sounds I could use him on my label. - John
Love to hear that John! That's awesome :)
Dude. Awesome video. Straight to the point. Easy to follow & engaging. Bro fist from germany
Thanks so much Dave! Appreciate that! Cheers :)
For anyone finding this video in the future that needs help:
3" thickness really isn't that much. It works well for high frequencies!.. but.. the mid to low end not so much.
To counteract that, there's a method to increasing your absorption affectiveness without needing to buy thicker material.
Behold, ❇ air gaps ❇
Creating a space of air from the back of the panel to the wall increases the material that sound has to travel through.
Basically, 3" material + 3" air gap = 6" of absorption. It is true however, that having 6" in material would be better than material + air, but the most common mineral wools are around 3.5" - 5".
how would you go about creating air gaps? different screws?
@@vuhlez i think you could use a 6" thick frame which, with 3" thick insolation, would create a 3" thick air gap between the insolation and the wall.
@@vuhlez When I made mine a couple years ago, I just used some rubber feet on the back of my frame and it makes them sit off the wall. IMO 3" air gap in the back isn't necessary, these sit 3/4" off the wall and have worked perfectly for voice recordings in my office. But I'm not doing music recording, so maybe I'm missing something.
@@bobziroll vocals sit in the mid to high range frequencies, meaning that they dont require bass absorbtion so u dont need super thick panels if u only do vocals
this is so clear and easy! Thank you for this!
Thanks, so glad you found it helpful!
The most helpful i've read after a long search. Thank you very much!
So glad to hear that! You’re very welcome :)
One of the best simple explanations of blade kerf I have seen in many years. Nicely done.
Thanks Greg! Glad you liked the video :)
Dude, thank you. This was perfect!
So glad you found it helpful Derek! :)
1x3 lumber is really like 2.5" by .75" correct? So does that mean you're leaving a 15.5" gap for the insulation? and the overall height is 48.5"?
This is the most complete easiest step by step video on how to create acoustic panels I have seen. Thank you very much.
@@PradeepMangalagiri thank you! Glad to hear that! :)
Double up 2 bats of rockwool for a 6" thick panel. It will be way more effective, especially in the lower frequencies. Also adding an air gap behind the panel increases effectiveness.
Thanks for the instructions!!!
You got it! :)
Silly question: do they stand up on their own or do they tend to lean one way or another and then proceed to inevitably fall?
Looks good! Rockwool's a much better choice than fiberglass. Just make sure you get the "unfaced" version and not the type that's got a Kraft face for stapling...
This is awesome!! Thanks for sharing!
Happy to help! :)
thank you so much for saying the basic wood measurements and stuff. I have never purchased wood before and most people just assume I am smart enough to math it out (IM NOT LOL) maybe I am idk I never thought about it but now I don't have to!
@@FTGBro glad you found it helpful! :)
Fantastic tutorial! Thank you!
Thank you, glad you found it helpful!
Good work with the video and acoustic panels
Thank you! Glad you liked it.
Great video! Wouldn't 1x4 pieces of wood work better given 1x3’s aren't actually 3 inches?
Thank you mate! Very easy to follow
@@cymonophori9998 glad you enjoyed it!
Hey- for anyone building this to prevent what happened to me;
first off, cheers to making this video! everything worked out except the size of the wood.
the 1x3 studs all wound up being only 2.5 inches instead so I had to rebuy all the wood. i wound up buying 1x4 instead cause those are actually 3.5 and the rockwool fit perfect in that
I just visited Lowes and looked at the Rockwool Safe'n'Sound material. It's about 3 inches thick, but pretty soft and pliable. Seems like it very easily could be put into the 1x3 wood frames. I think that 1x4 might end up having the Rockwool be a bit loose. I think I'd rather have it just a teeny bit snug, held in by the landscaping fabric and the bedsheet fabric ...
Hands down the most helpful video on this process! I do have a question. Most other videos suggest 1x4s instead of 1x3s while still using the same insulation. Is there a reason/difference for this?
One reason is that you leave a 1" gap at the rear to create an air gap behind the insulation. This would need additional wood to create the perimeter bed to retain the insulation but would allow the acoustic waves to pass through the insulation then pass through air, hit a wall and get partially absorbed and then partially reflected back through the air gap and back through the insulation, hence using it twice. without the air gap it would work so effectively.
this was amazing. I wish you did a before and after sound
Thank you!
Great video!
Thanks so much! Appreciate the feedback!
Highly underrated video. Deserves way more views. I've watched a lot of videos and you're right it gets overcomplicated
@@PANDACHOPChronicles thanks so much! I appreciate the comment and glad you enjoyed it!
You're a g making this video thank you
Glad you liked it, thank you!
Amazing, just what I've been looking for!! Thank you!
Happy to help! Thanks!!
Thank you!! Needed this video!
Happy to help! :)
underrated
well done sir!
Thank you!
How much would you say each panel cost to build?
You can do them for about 40$ a panel or cheaper. Check local marketplace as sometimes small builders will sell them finished for 60$ and that is worth it when you factor in your time
Ive been installed 12 of 16x24x4 base 3" rockwool safe and sound in my 15'x11' room. Its still not enough. The bass is still behind of my expectation. I think I should install more in ceiling. it is not as easy as people think.
Pro tip, don’t sweat your acoustic treatment quite as much. Not saying don’t treat at all, but also calibrate your speakers! Makes a MASSIVE difference. Use Sonarworks SoundID reference. Then your speakers will compensate for whatever inconsistencies are in your room and will sound absolutely incredible.
Thanks for the tutorial!!!
Happy to help! Glad you liked it!
Those fibers still come out.
You should have installed those with an air gap behind the panel same as the panel thickness for the most effectiveness.
Can you explain more? Do you mean to hang these panels from ceiling or wall but don't attach directly to the ceiling wall (leave an air gap between these panels and the ceiling where they will hang from?
@@marcuswelsh2741 Exactly leave an air gap, not all the way tight to the wall. Use stand-off's to keep them away. Stand-off's can be anything from threaded rod to just 2x2 wood.
Thanks so much @@Cpt_Adama
@@therealbeepo There are many ways to attach them to walls and ceilings that would be a whole article, so your going to have to research that part to see what others have done. For example a simple way to attach to a wall is using large "hook & eye" metal hooks you can get at Home Depot. If you get the 1" size you put the "eye" in the wall and the "hooks" on each top corner of your panel, you attach the top two portions like a picture hanging on the wall for about 2" of total separation from the wall (which should be adequate for most home studios) and for the bottom just use a small block of 2x2 on the back bottom of your panel and it can just rest against the wall but will keep it propped out. Maybe some felt on it if it vibrates against the wall. Good luck.
@@Cpt_Adama thanks again!! I'm actually making a dance and singing studio in Thailand.. So these will be on the ceiling to absorb some of the sound in each room. I appreciate the advice!
Are you from Canada or somewhere around the great lakes? If thats the case, the "outside" gave it away 😂
Great video mate, stripped down, plain and simple to understand!
Haha that's right! 😂 Thank you, cheers!
Thanks! Gonna do this soon! Are the rockwool safe and sound panels in the plastic bag consistent in size? (47x16)
Yes, the Rockwool within each bag is all the same size once it expands. Though you can buy different bags at different sizes, the pieces inside each bag are the same as the others in the same bag :)
i made it just as you said, thanks for that video.
you ROCK tysm!
Happy to help!
😂 that cheat sheet plug at the end let’s me know I’m not really the target demographic for this video. I’m a middle school teacher. My classroom is just a concrete box, and think these will really help.
Thq bro 💝😍💗👍
well done, good pacing
Thank you!
Great video but i don't have the tools and time to make my own, do you know any where i can buy them from all put together?
Do a google search for “acoustic panels” and you find a lot of options. But they can be pretty pricey. Acoustimac and ATS are two well regarded brands.
Honest question. Aren’t 3 inch panels insufficient for proper acoustic treatment?. I was told minimum 4-6 inch thick panels for proper treatment.
I'm no expert, but I've been looking for the answer to that same question. From what I've found online, 3" is good for treating highs and high mids, but you'll want 4-6" thick to treat low frequencies. I'm planning on doing 3" on the walls and making 6" thick for corner bass traps.
I think 2.5” is the minimum. In many home studio circumstances, 4-6” is inconvenient. If you’re just looking for basic containment, I’d suggest 3-4”
You should be okay with 3 inch panels around your walls unless you want perfect treatment. If you need more, you can just get wider wood and thicker insulation and do the same thing. What you might want to do is create two thicker ones to put diagonally in the corners behind your recording spot for as basstraps, those are usually thicker.
3" panels would be great if you use an air gap method. Having space between the back of the panel and the wall has shown to increase the affectiveness of the panel.
3" thickness? Have a 3" gap. Basically 6" of absorption.
Although, it is true that having that 6" in material instead of material+air is better, but working with what you have is all that matters lol.
When hanging even thick panels, having an air gap improves efficiency.
We don’t hang clouds tight to the ceiling, and that makes angling panels a snap.
I heard that there has to be a Gap between the Absorber and the Wall.
Jesus I wish the US would use metric like the rest of the world lol. Nice vid tho, will consider for my spare room studio
How is this easy for newbies? It's great and fun to look at but I need already made ones. I'll try those first then do this if they don't work. Thanks so much for the video. I truly appreciate your hard work showing us. :). Happy New Year!
Because all you need is a saw, a drill and a stapler. This is super simple and you can have these put together in a couple of hours no problem. But if you need already made ones, you don't need a tutorial... Just go buy them? I don't understand the complaint lol
@@BlatantlySwedishPGN I don’t have those tools. So, from my prospective it was a lot. I see why we are seeing it differently. My starting point was further away from yours. Thanks. when I’m at your level that will be easy for me. Thanks for the tutorial. As a certified teacher I know that just cause it’s easy for the teacher doesn’t mean it’s easy for the student. We’ve gotta tell them that it’s easy when you have these items and know how to use them. Because if they have a learning curve to just start then It isn’t easy for them. It’s subjective until you agree on a staring point. I hope that helped for future tutorials. 😊 God bless you.
@@PatriceDEvans oh, yeah, absolutely. I apologize if I sounded harsh. Most households will have most of the tools used, or at least you'll have a neighbor/friend with some tools. Hope you find a solution that works for you either way!
The reason it's great is because it's kind on the wallet. One professional panel would be the price of around 6 you could make yourself for nearly the same effectiveness.
Not being handy or having tools available really sucks, but if you do or know someone who is or does, REALLY could save you from spending hundreds to thousands of dollars!
@@dawsontvdc Thanks. The tools are an upfront cost and investment. If I see myself needing it long term I will get it. God bless you.
I disagree on the Rockwool, that stuff should be in back of drywall not a breathable space, you know cancer and dust
If it’s not disturb vigorously you shouldn’t have a problem. Plus the bed sheet is a little thicker which prevents particles from coming through. This was my concerned at first as well.
Rockwool doesn’t cause cancer- look it up
@@theonlydreamy man it’s a lung problematic, get some 1 inch felt instead
I’m building an indoor gun range. Any suggestions
just remember that if you have the space you want to tame the bass more than the highs..
So the 6" Rockwool about 2"s from the wall with do more for the bass & at the same time will also do the mids & highs.
anything less wont touch anything lower 120hz which is the most important to getting a clean mix & treating the room.
the 3" panels really only deal with your voice even with an air gap.
ALL panels much have an air gap behind them!!!
Ideally if you have a 1" panel it needs a 1" gap, a 3" panel a 3" gap.. 6" panel 6" gap.. ect..
if you control the lows the rest will fall into place.
3" panel with a 3" gap is not 6" of absorption its 3" working correctly.
Obviously you have to make it work for you & no gaps will sound good but only 50% as effective for mids to his & completely useless for the lows.
at 160Hz the wave length Is 2.14m long.. at 40Hz its 8.58m.. at 20Hz its 17.2m
so a 3" panel is not going to do much!
Keep this in mind..
These panels are to thin. Should be around 16cm for good results if you want to work on the full frequency spectrum.
1x3 for the wood is the way to go. It fits just right. 1x4 would be too deep.
@@michaelcarlin8529 this was my finding as well!
Use 705 insulation and you can lose the frame. It’s rigid
Hey youtube - way too many commercials! They interrupt with bad timing and they repeat the same way too many times. Stop it or I will go else where!
get adblock
Nonsense! For many years I have seen people sticking DIY panels all over the room, thinking that this is an acoustic treatment. It really would be acoustic treatment if our ears didn't go below 500 Hz. But the problem is that we do go lower than that, so solutions like that are like shooting an elephant with a slingshot.
The problem with using standard solutions is that you can leave the reverberation time in the different frequency bands very unbalanced. Porous materials leave virtually untreated below 300-400 Hz, making the reverberation time for mid and high frequencies very low, and for low frequencies very high.
It is more interesting to achieve a compensated reverberation time for all frequency bands, even if this is higher, than a very low reverberation time for medium and high frequencies and a very high reverberation time for low frequencies.
Well I'm pretty sure he is aware of the fact that these are for mid-high absorption.
Your comments remind of the old days when people put egg cartons or carpet on the walls. Does NO good.
How can you achieve that in a bedroom studio though?
i mean if you have trouble making these you need to reconsider your life skills...
Nike, kizz, great white, golden child, oj, ateam, mohawk ,high my name is John John jm MJman in a mirrors
damn thats crazy
Yo wtf
Too confusing. I'll just buy them already constructed.
This is far too difficult
Better get out your wallet then...
You must be pretty worthless if you think this is too hard lol. Seriously.