If an engine has been sitting for a long time, I worry that the first few strokes of the piston will scar up the cylinder. This can be a big issue, especially if the float is stuck, since the raw gasoline will wash off any remaining oil film on the bore. I remove the spark plug and spray in some fogging oil or a product made for seasonal reviving of engines (often found in the mower department of a hardware store). If the piston orientation is vertical, you can squirt in a little motor oil, transmission fluid, or Marvel Mystery Oil and it will flow around the top piston ring for initial lubrication. If the cylinder is at any position other than vertical, I suspect a spray will do a better job. Afterwards, I slowly turn the engine over a few times before replacing the spark plug. Just be aware that the engine might smoke for a few minutes as the raw oil gets burned off. If the engine runs but is just a little rough, I have had good luck adding some "fuel system cleaner" like Chevron Techron to the first couple tanks of gas. I check the label to make certain that it mentions its use with carburetors to lessen the chance that the chemicals might damage the o-rings and seals.
@furmen9904 Spark plug fouling is always a possibility, so be prepared to clean the plug, just in case. I have not had that problem.... yet. The thinner spray foggers may lessen the chances of fouling the plug. Boxer engines will tend to smoke worse since some of the raw oil may drip out of the exhaust valve and end up in the exhaust system. I had a Subaru once smoke up the neighborhood when I did this. I still have the memory of seeing an annoyed neighbor being engulfed in a cloud of blue smoke as I drove away. Oops.
@@laszlofurmen9904 I forgot to mention to avoid adding so much oil into the cylinder that it will "hydrolock" the piston at its top position. I use a relatively thin oil, not something thick like 90W gear oil.
I just run mine out through the rear shock. It can be modified to run up higher to avoid water suffocation. When I did the TAT I went through a deep creek and it wasn't too happy.
If an engine has been sitting for a long time, I worry that the first few strokes of the piston will scar up the cylinder. This can be a big issue, especially if the float is stuck, since the raw gasoline will wash off any remaining oil film on the bore. I remove the spark plug and spray in some fogging oil or a product made for seasonal reviving of engines (often found in the mower department of a hardware store). If the piston orientation is vertical, you can squirt in a little motor oil, transmission fluid, or Marvel Mystery Oil and it will flow around the top piston ring for initial lubrication. If the cylinder is at any position other than vertical, I suspect a spray will do a better job. Afterwards, I slowly turn the engine over a few times before replacing the spark plug.
Just be aware that the engine might smoke for a few minutes as the raw oil gets burned off.
If the engine runs but is just a little rough, I have had good luck adding some "fuel system cleaner" like Chevron Techron to the first couple tanks of gas. I check the label to make certain that it mentions its use with carburetors to lessen the chance that the chemicals might damage the o-rings and seals.
That is a really good idea, when I brought my 1982 f250 back to life after sitting for 8 years I used 2 stroke oil
ty this is what im looked for. ( the type of oil to use, not to mess up the spark plug )
@furmen9904 Spark plug fouling is always a possibility, so be prepared to clean the plug, just in case. I have not had that problem.... yet. The thinner spray foggers may lessen the chances of fouling the plug. Boxer engines will tend to smoke worse since some of the raw oil may drip out of the exhaust valve and end up in the exhaust system. I had a Subaru once smoke up the neighborhood when I did this. I still have the memory of seeing an annoyed neighbor being engulfed in a cloud of blue smoke as I drove away. Oops.
@@laszlofurmen9904 I forgot to mention to avoid adding so much oil into the cylinder that it will "hydrolock" the piston at its top position. I use a relatively thin oil, not something thick like 90W gear oil.
@911thanx, maybe that was the problem last time. ( I was not able to start my KLR after a year of sitting ) This time i will try the fogging oil.
What Kind of lense are you using here? i like the fish eye look. Thanks :)
Thanks for the content..
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How to R & R the carbs on that connie
Tastes like Fire!
Taste like fire😂😂😂🤣
Carbs are always fun 😐
I think the carb cleaning product messes up the o-rings, no?
It does, I always pull out the o rings prior to cleaning. It can also mess up the float needle.
Taste like fire
Ok
Question where do u run that Drain and breather line
I just run mine out through the rear shock. It can be modified to run up higher to avoid water suffocation. When I did the TAT I went through a deep creek and it wasn't too happy.
@@LilBJessup oh okay thanks a lot . How bout the tank cover breather .. do U have that routed to the tank line or hanging from the cover
@@LilBJessup Tat is definitely on my bucket list lol . Just need some friends ahaha
Carb cleaner damages your rubber membranes in your carb.
But it cleans the crustys, which means it’s good enough for me
@@LilBJessupno, if you get a hole on your membrane, then your carb will not work. I know i made the same mistake before 😂😅.
If you turn the KLR carb a little you can disassemble the bottom part of the carb to clean the floater only.