A little back story on the original lathe tool post. My dad used to make those in a machine shop back in the 1970's in Dayton Ohio. The thread was cut on a Warner & Swasey No. 4 turret lathe with a geometric die head in a single pass, and it was done. He made 100's of those tool posts a day.
Scott… I figured out that the direction of the vertical post lock screw was variable, by accident. After owning two different Shopsmith’s over thirty years, I was always irritated that the new 520 locks were backward from what my old 510 had been. But, I just lived with it. A couple of years ago, my 8 year old grandson was helping me wax the unit. I asked him to install the end support table. While he was fiddling with it, the lock came out. So, he handed it to me. Somehow it got turned around in the exchange. As I was attempting to snug it, I ended up loosening it. That’s when I had the Eureka moment. Ever since, they’ve operated the direction I wanted. A small discovery… but it did remove one more thing that made use of my SS more intuitive and less ‘Fiddle Reliant’’!!! Have a wonderful Thanksgiving!
I'm surprised we didn't see sparks flying when Scott used the belt sander on the post... I don't like sanding metal or using a grinding wheel in my basement shop, so I simply filed an old post by hand-worked fine. And Happy turkey day to all-we're eating apple pie tonight! jim
I have the the locking handles set up so they tighten by pulling up. It puts less strain on my wrists. I think the big thing is to have both ends the same so that you don't have to remember which end is which.
Each person should set it up how it works best for them, and yes same way on both ends. I too like to lock it down by rotating the top into the machine. I feel like I can use my legs and body a bit more. Whereas rotating the top away from the machine I can't get it tight enough.
Amazing, as I have owned my shopsmith for 30 years and never gave it any thought as to how the post locks worked, sometimes turning it too far and causing it to drop out. Sure make sense doing it the way you showed. Thanks for sharing this useful information.
I have adjustable handles vs the set screws they’re really handy. I noticed that (may well be the post was not in the correct location, as I never noticed the post flat) the carriage split was not really split was not as wide as it once was. Resplit it and it works. No doubt it was my lack of understanding - the flat. Never noticed it. So - thank you again!
Even though my 520 has both the through-cut on the carriage and the flat on the tool rest, I found the tool rest still moved and caused problems while turning. The expensive solution was the universal tool rest that Shopsmith sells as an accessory.
Thanks for the great tip on the old tool rest post. I sold a SS to a friend several years ago, and I will certainly pass along that tip. Seems to make a world of difference. Blessings, Glen
While doing an inspection of my shop Smith 50th anniversary I noticed a hairline fracture on the opposite side of the far side of the carriage and I had to take the shop smoke apart to take the carriage in and have a wielded because the fracture giving of small went all the way through from top to bottom so yeah they're paid to pay attention
3 times I paused this video to walk out to my shop. Where I compared the 2 Shopsmiths I have. One is 20 years old and the other is 10 years old. So, it was interesting to see the changes that you discussed in this video. Thanks for a great video! Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!
@@MyGrowthRings My older 510 doesn't have the split casting. My newer PowerPro does have the split casting. Also, the newer PowerPro has an additional washer between the carriage and the wheel. It is a large fiber washer.
Well, that just checked off the first question I was going to ask at our next Board meeting: how do I get the ‘play’ out of my lathe tool rest when I’m turning? Great info!
Thanks for this informative information. I have been turning a lot of pens since i got my power pro headstock, aka "Smart Motor', i will definitely be checking this to see. I have not noticed any movement but that does not mean its not there.
Great video-thanks for the hint on the handle position and grinding the old style post. Question about the "Smart Motor".... I was at the 75th anniversary meeting and recall Nick calling the Power Pro the "Smart Motor" but the website parts section is calling the conventional headstock the "Smart Motor". Is this a mistake in the web site? jim
@@jamespowell7196 That must be a mistake. The "Smart Motor" is the PowerPro headstock. While the conventional headstock is not "smart", it sure is wise!
Scott, I have the newer belt sander. Came with my Mark 7 as a freebie. In the vertical position, the cams are perfectly aligned. When I go to the horizontal position, the cams are out of alignment. Is there a way to prevent this, or should I find a happy medium between the 2 and call it good. It's always a great day.
Yes, the trunnion parts can be aligned. I usually do this on a bench so it's easier to get to all the parts. More times than not it's a matter of tightening the tensioning lock nut.
Lol I always have my tailstock table lock to crank up. I think only one ide of it is left hand threads. I do not know if my 510 has the slot cut in it. I am betting so it locks pretty good and I use the newer style with the rack. Interesting though I thought I knew most things about it. I seen a certain newer channel that ha a old shopsmith and he ha not figured the table lock out yet as he rolled it off in his hand.
That’s actually a question I was hoping someone would ask. It’s not a difficult process but it does take a little bit of courage and I think Shopsmith has proven that I t’s worth the effort because they continue to do it, even though it’s an extra step in the manufacturing process.
Scott, can you point me in the direction of the tail stock that you use? I have the original fixed one, but I see yours moves. Wondering which to get and where from. Thanks
I've been looking for a shopsmith used, I looked at new ones but my main use will be the lathe and because shop smiths has such a big swing compared to the other lathes in the same used price range. But I found a wood master that I almost bought because they sure do look like a shop smiths. Do u know if they have compatibility with shop smiths accessories
That is a Taiwanese knock off of the Shopsmith. None of the internal components of the headstock are interchangeable, and some of the accessories are close, but not quite compatible. You could use the larger accessories like the bandsaw or belt, sander, interchangeably, but my biggest concern is the fact that if something inside the headstock were to fail, you would be out of luck. Scott
Sir I have a question . I have a Shopsmith I love it. I have issues with out of round wood vibrating my machine apart. I’m not talking anything huge. 6 inch max diameter. I replaced all the bearings. I’m terrified something is going to come off and hurt me. I’ve watched your videos. I’ve been very careful
That can be a problem with any lathe. Ideally you need for the blank to be as balanced as you can make it. Are these spindles or bowls? With bowl blanks I usually turn the outside to shape with the stock mounted to the interior of the bowl and I’ll use weights under the screws to balance the blank. I also use a bandsaw the blank to rough shape first,
@@MyGrowthRings spindles. I’ve watch closely how you do it and try to replicate. I had a 3 foot long piece of cedar 6 inches thick useing 4 inch screws to hold it in and it came loose breaking my rest. This was a good 6 inch post from a box store. I carefully made sure that my headstock and live stock before hand
@@marcroemelen6836 I’m sorry to hear that happened to you and I would love to be able to study a slow motion video of that to determine exactly what happened. Could it have been that the tool caught first and the wood rolled up and over your tool? Was the stock square?
@@MyGrowthRings i did alight them like you showed. I am waiting to receive my new headstock this week. I had a lot of issues even after I repaired it. I will make a video so you can see what I’m doing and possibly straighten me out. Lol
Off topic but I am trying to resaw on my bandsaw without any success. I have had my Shopsmith since 1982 so it is getting a little long in the tooth. I have a 5/8” resaw blade, guides adjusted, rollers working but when I cut 6” thick stock the top cuts straight but the bottom drifts significantly to the right. I have built a fence that accommodates for the drift. How do I make the bottom track as it should?
I did. It tracks great at the top but still drifts to the right at the table, where I can’t see it until the end of the cut and the board is waste! I am cutting 6” thick cypress so it is a FULL depth cut. I have the old cast iron table and use the miter gauge locked in the grooves in the table with an extension attached. Running at speed A, new blade.
A little back story on the original lathe tool post. My dad used to make those in a machine shop back in the 1970's in Dayton Ohio. The thread was cut on a Warner & Swasey No. 4 turret lathe with a geometric die head in a single pass, and it was done. He made 100's of those tool posts a day.
That’s neat, Chad. Thanks for sharing.
Scott's bunched up shorts....🤣🤣🤣 Oh you! Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure.
Scott… I figured out that the direction of the vertical post lock screw was variable, by accident.
After owning two different Shopsmith’s over thirty years, I was always irritated that the new 520 locks were backward from what my old 510 had been. But, I just lived with it.
A couple of years ago, my 8 year old grandson was helping me wax the unit. I asked him to install the end support table. While he was fiddling with it, the lock came out. So, he handed it to me. Somehow it got turned around in the exchange.
As I was attempting to snug it, I ended up loosening it. That’s when I had the Eureka moment. Ever since, they’ve operated the direction I wanted.
A small discovery… but it did remove one more thing that made use of my SS more intuitive and less ‘Fiddle Reliant’’!!!
Have a wonderful Thanksgiving!
I'm sure that's how a lot of people discovered it. Happy Thanksgiving to you, too.
I'm surprised we didn't see sparks flying when Scott used the belt sander on the post... I don't like sanding metal or using a grinding wheel in my basement shop, so I simply filed an old post by hand-worked fine. And Happy turkey day to all-we're eating apple pie tonight! jim
I have the the locking handles set up so they tighten by pulling up. It puts less strain on my wrists. I think the big thing is to have both ends the same so that you don't have to remember which end is which.
#Truth
I do the same. Don't know why pulling up works better. You can see a few posts down that Scott thinks this is the "factory standard" method.
Each person should set it up how it works best for them, and yes same way on both ends. I too like to lock it down by rotating the top into the machine. I feel like I can use my legs and body a bit more. Whereas rotating the top away from the machine I can't get it tight enough.
Amazing, as I have owned my shopsmith for 30 years and never gave it any thought as to how the post locks worked, sometimes turning it too far and causing it to drop out. Sure make sense doing it the way you showed. Thanks for sharing this useful information.
Happy to share and isn't it good to know that you'll never have to bend down to pick up another one?
No cheap shots here!!! Great video as always!!!
Thanks!
I have adjustable handles vs the set screws they’re really handy.
I noticed that (may well be the post was not in the correct location, as I never noticed the post flat) the carriage split was not really split was not as wide as it once was. Resplit it and it works. No doubt it was my lack of understanding - the flat. Never noticed it.
So - thank you again!
Even though my 520 has both the through-cut on the carriage and the flat on the tool rest, I found the tool rest still moved and caused problems while turning. The expensive solution was the universal tool rest that Shopsmith sells as an accessory.
Yes, that's why I always push forward on it before tightening, so that at least it won't move into the stock.
Thanks for the great tip on the old tool rest post. I sold a SS to a friend several years ago, and I will certainly pass along that tip. Seems to make a world of difference. Blessings, Glen
It sure did. Thanks for watching, Glen.
Thanks Scott. Your shorts are full of......usefully info😅
I've been turning for 2 years and never thought to push the tool rest towards the work before tightening! Great tip!
Happy to help.
While doing an inspection of my shop Smith 50th anniversary I noticed a hairline fracture on the opposite side of the far side of the carriage and I had to take the shop smoke apart to take the carriage in and have a wielded because the fracture giving of small went all the way through from top to bottom so yeah they're paid to pay attention
Wow, that was a good catch! Glad you are able to address it before it became a catastrophic failure. Scott
Cured my moving tool rest. Very helpfull. Can you do a vid on the banjo style tool rest?
Glad to hear it. Yes, one of these days I'll bite the bullet and purchase one, and will talk about it then.
Scott, I always thought the post locks rotated towards the head stock. I feel I can also get more leverage when tightening
Install them either way you want. I discovered that on the jointer in particular that I couldn't get it quite as tight rolling it the other way.
Great video. It's the little things that make a difference. Happy Turkey Day to you and yours.
So true. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours too!
Great tips as always Scott!
Thanks!
3 times I paused this video to walk out to my shop. Where I compared the 2 Shopsmiths I have. One is 20 years old and the other is 10 years old. So, it was interesting to see the changes that you discussed in this video. Thanks for a great video! Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!
Did they both have the split casting on the carriage?
And thank you. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours too!
@@MyGrowthRings My older 510 doesn't have the split casting. My newer PowerPro does have the split casting. Also, the newer PowerPro has an additional washer between the carriage and the wheel. It is a large fiber washer.
Nice video Scott!
Thanks, Albert. Happy Thanksgiving!
@@MyGrowthRings 🦃
Great Shorts Scott, always appreciated. Wishing you and your bride a Happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks, Mark! Back at you and yours.
just a pleasure as always
Well, that just checked off the first question I was going to ask at our next Board meeting: how do I get the ‘play’ out of my lathe tool rest when I’m turning? Great info!
Ha! We can still talk about it if you’d like.
Regarding tailstock locks, what is the default “factory” position?
That's a great question. I believe that they install them the opposite of the way I prefer them.
Thanks for this informative information. I have been turning a lot of pens since i got my power pro headstock, aka "Smart Motor', i will definitely be checking this to see. I have not noticed any movement but that does not mean its not there.
Great video-thanks for the hint on the handle position and grinding the old style post.
Question about the "Smart Motor"....
I was at the 75th anniversary meeting and recall Nick calling the Power Pro the "Smart Motor" but the website parts section is calling the conventional headstock the "Smart Motor". Is this a mistake in the web site? jim
@@jamespowell7196 That must be a mistake. The "Smart Motor" is the PowerPro headstock. While the conventional headstock is not "smart", it sure is wise!
I have the new gen 2 powerpro. Must admit I was hesitant but sure are impressed with its performance so far.
Scott, I have the newer belt sander. Came with my Mark 7 as a freebie. In the vertical position, the cams are perfectly aligned. When I go to the horizontal position, the cams are out of alignment. Is there a way to prevent this, or should I find a happy medium between the 2 and call it good. It's always a great day.
Yes, the trunnion parts can be aligned. I usually do this on a bench so it's easier to get to all the parts. More times than not it's a matter of tightening the tensioning lock nut.
Lol I always have my tailstock table lock to crank up. I think only one ide of it is left hand threads. I do not know if my 510 has the slot cut in it. I am betting so it locks pretty good and I use the newer style with the rack. Interesting though I thought I knew most things about it. I seen a certain newer channel that ha a old shopsmith and he ha not figured the table lock out yet as he rolled it off in his hand.
That’s happened to all of us.
@@MyGrowthRings True that.
Very interesting on the carriage cuts. Is it worth cutting them if they didn't come that way?
That’s actually a question I was hoping someone would ask. It’s not a difficult process but it does take a little bit of courage and I think Shopsmith has proven that I t’s worth the effort because they continue to do it, even though it’s an extra step in the manufacturing process.
Cool. So as far as you know the casting was not changed? No reinforcements or anything compensate for the cuts? Thanks!
@@robertedwards8230 That’s correct, but hang tight while I get confirmation from Jim McCann
Hi Scott. Any word from Jim? Thanks
I too, would be interested in a “how to” for the carriage cuts!!!
Scott, can you point me in the direction of the tail stock that you use? I have the original fixed one, but I see yours moves. Wondering which to get and where from. Thanks
It's the one that Shopsmith currently sells. They sometimes wind up on eBay, but buying one from Shopsmith is the safest route.
Thanks
Welcome
I've been looking for a shopsmith used, I looked at new ones but my main use will be the lathe and because shop smiths has such a big swing compared to the other lathes in the same used price range. But I found a wood master that I almost bought because they sure do look like a shop smiths. Do u know if they have compatibility with shop smiths accessories
That is a Taiwanese knock off of the Shopsmith. None of the internal components of the headstock are interchangeable, and some of the accessories are close, but not quite compatible. You could use the larger accessories like the bandsaw or belt, sander, interchangeably, but my biggest concern is the fact that if something inside the headstock were to fail, you would be out of luck. Scott
Sir I have a question . I have a Shopsmith I love it. I have issues with out of round wood vibrating my machine apart. I’m not talking anything huge. 6 inch max diameter. I replaced all the bearings. I’m terrified something is going to come off and hurt me. I’ve watched your videos. I’ve been very careful
That can be a problem with any lathe. Ideally you need for the blank to be as balanced as you can make it. Are these spindles or bowls? With bowl blanks I usually turn the outside to shape with the stock mounted to the interior of the bowl and I’ll use weights under the screws to balance the blank. I also use a bandsaw the blank to rough shape first,
@@MyGrowthRings spindles. I’ve watch closely how you do it and try to replicate. I had a 3 foot long piece of cedar 6 inches thick useing 4 inch screws to hold it in and it came loose breaking my rest. This was a good 6 inch post from a box store. I carefully made sure that my headstock and live stock before hand
@@marcroemelen6836 I’m sorry to hear that happened to you and I would love to be able to study a slow motion video of that to determine exactly what happened. Could it have been that the tool caught first and the wood rolled up and over your tool? Was the stock square?
@@MyGrowthRings i did alight them like you showed. I am waiting to receive my new headstock this week. I had a lot of issues even after I repaired it. I will make a video so you can see what I’m doing and possibly straighten me out. Lol
@@MyGrowthRings I did have about a half inch of clearance from the tool rest. It probably saved my life
Off topic but I am trying to resaw on my bandsaw without any success. I have had my Shopsmith since 1982 so it is getting a little long in the tooth. I have a 5/8” resaw blade, guides adjusted, rollers working but when I cut 6” thick stock the top cuts straight but the bottom drifts significantly to the right. I have built a fence that accommodates for the drift. How do I make the bottom track as it should?
Did you watch this video? th-cam.com/video/5lqzmibP3vg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=uH6D4w2CCpBpQQPw
I did. It tracks great at the top but still drifts to the right at the table, where I can’t see it until the end of the cut and the board is waste! I am cutting 6” thick cypress so it is a FULL depth cut. I have the old cast iron table and use the miter gauge locked in the grooves in the table with an extension attached. Running at speed A, new blade.
@@jayfranks1762 what is the width and how many teeth per inch is the blade?
@@jayfranks1762 Looking back I see you have a 5/8” blade. What is the tooth count?
4 teeth per inch. It is Shopsmith’s 5/8” resaw blade.
"Scott's Bunched Up Shorts". 😂
Was that wrong?
Hahaha! It was absolutely awesome!! The perfect tag line.
Great tips. You'll have to cut those up into TH-cam Shorts.
Dude, I’m been avoiding Shorts like the plague.
Scott's bunched up shorts is a great joke
Well, bless your heart, Scott. As always, I have learned a couple things. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family! 😊
Thanks, Mark, and happy Thanksgiving to you and yours.