If you look at Elrings website they only make a 1.2mm and the 1.5mm head gasket for the N54, so you have either a 1.2 which is the same you currently have or a 1.5 which still works. The "loch" situation might just be an error on Elring. Neither of the gaskets on their website have a single "loch" on the gasket
Had a similar issue when I accidentally removed the head from my wife's Alfa! The aftermarket seem to assume you will have skimmed the head! The only people I could get a factory thickness gasket from was the dealer (and even then it had to be flown in from Italy!). I suspect the dealer may be the only source.
The old gasket is compressed. We use to run a cometic multiple layer on our drag car so we could refresh the engine between pass if we needed to they use to state the gasket could be re compressed up to 15 times or a surton mileage. But the gasket had to be inspect and measured from the cylinder side out over with vernier's to check it was still in spec and not staying compressed before reinstalling it. They also had different layers for different thickness so you could buy a 3 5 or 7 layer
I dont know how it work on n54, but on diesel bmw engines, more holes is ticker gasket, less holes is thin gasket. the first step to machine n54 head is -0.3, so i think 1.55 is the ticker gasket. If you not machine the head just replace with original size one. all the photos i see from 725-390 have 2 holes, is very strange that yours only have 1.
The holes seem to correspond to the amount of ‘piston protrusion’ measured at a couple of nominated locations during assembly. It sounds like bmw would fit 1, 2 or 3 hole depending on this measurement which must have something to do with how the machining and assembly tolerances add up during manufacturing. Try googling for this.
Man the only thing I hate about owning a BMW is the waiting on parts. No matter what you need it has to be ordered and shipped. My trucks, I just hop online and order, usually Oriellys or Advance have it in stock, if not Dodge always does. Motor parts just call a local Cummins dealer and same day. I cannot imagine living in Australia and having to wait weeks for bolts or gaskets lol, man you all must be damn patient.
Ask FCP if they have a two-hole gasket, then compare part numbers. Send them a pic! As others have said, thicker won’t cause any issues, but yes, it would be nice to know. Cheers!
Did some digging and came up with conflicting information as well. The short of it is, that the 3 hole gasket is supposed to be thicker to offset heads that have been machined flat (~0.1 - 0.2mm), while the 2 hole version is the standard size. Idk mate, but whatever gasket you have there does not follow this pattern. I'd be very hesitant to install this one as well. Probably better to wait for the original BMW one.
Yeah its a difficult one. Hopefully FCP can shed some light on it. This was ordered as the OEM stock thickness part number. It should be what you get from the dealer. but something's off. We'll get to the bottom of it soon
MLS do crush, they are design to accommodate the head trying to lift underboost and keep everything sealed. I would be inclined to fit it, worst case you lower your compression ration, meaning you can run more boost and time before knock or detination.
My opinion, ignore the part numbers and trust the measurements, Elring has clearly assumed you will have skimmed the head, a genuine one might not be that expensive, you could use the old one but for peace of mind I would go new.
The stock gasket has 4 layers of metal sheet to make a thickness of 1.2mm. 0.3mm metal sheet thickness. The one used for the machined head has 5 layers of metal sheet. Making the head gasket a thickness of 1.5mm. This is what I found in my experience as I'm also doing a head job.
I've rebuilt both a N47 and M57 using Elring gaskets and the hole system was in line with BMW spec on both. I would suspect there is a mistake somewhere and you have the wrong gaskets.
I went genuine to be “safe” with the power I was chasing while running ethanol. But I have read if quite a few people running the aftermarket ones with no problemsZ
Appreciated is that osais one or just any ? They’re about £200 as always couldn’t come worse time I love to hate Bmw. The bong depression like one Pavlovs Dogs lol
I won’t in this one, but will with the other engine. Have you seen any good options out there? I’ve only found the vac and one other option, but both required me sending my block to them.
Last time I did the job I used both walnut and CRC. The walnut is much faster, as you found, but the liquids can get into the tiny crevasses. In the future I will use both again. The job looks a lot easier when the head is off the engine though. :) I checked TIS and couldn't find any info on the head gasket ID, but it does list the machining limit for the head as 0.3 mm. So if the stock gasket is 1.2 and the replacement is 1.5 then there is your 0.3 mm. On RealOEM I see two listings for N54 head gasket - 11127557265 is 1.215 mm thick: www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=VB73-USA-10-2006-E90-BMW-335i&mg=11&sg=15&diagId=11_3966&q=11127557265 - 11127557266 is 1.52 mm thick: www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=VB73-USA-10-2006-E90-BMW-335i&mg=11&sg=15&diagId=11_3966&q=11127557266 The thicker gasket is listed as (+0.3mm) on RealOEM. ECS Tuning makes a distinction in the thickness of the two gaskets. FCP Euro only specifies the thickness of the thicker gasket as 1.52 mm (+0.30 thicker than stock). The thickness of the thinner gasket is not specified on their website listing for the BMW and Elring parts.
Hey bro absolute love the channel but with the 335 always being in the shop it puts me off buying one. I was gonna ask you bro as i finally got my BMW E93 325 and loving it. But in March I want to upgrade. My dream has always been to buy the 335 having seen your channel which motivated to consider doing a budget build, but your 335 N54 seems to always be in the shop & always broken! Lol ( not a dig in anyway love the channel) I was wondering did you buy a good example with low miles, stock and full service history??? A clean example in England is £10k/17.61AUD and then another £10k to build the car. That would be 2011 Bmw 335 MSport E93 DCT 38,000 miles as an example everything mint. Every extra going!! So got my thinking with this covid 19 the 2012 2014 Bmw 640 D Msport might be a better option very cheap to run. The 640d is normally £20k/35kAud. But now around £10k with this Covid 19 so the same price as the Bmw 335. All I would need initially is a remap and carbon pack (splitter spoiler wing mirror etc & maybe a wrap) more exterior than engine. What are your thoughts bro as i want a reliable fast car. 640d with a remap is 752Nm of torque and comes with 20inch alloys. I need some advice lol 😁😎😎 Respect 💪🏾👊
Mine was not a good example. It was about half what they were selling for at the time i bought it. Had multiple coolant leaks, so probably been overheated by the previous owner. I got on top of the maintanance then promptly pumped all of the boost in to it. I think fast and reliable are 2 words that dont really go well together. It one or the other. However my personal opinon on current offerings. For now, the EWG N55 running stage 2+ decat and intercooler, is probably the best balance. Of the 2. A build on a N54 will be quicker than a Aventador, but you'll be continually doing little things. The stage 2 N55 will be like Gallardo quick and relatively hassle free if you get a low milage one and stay on top of it.
@@ZeroTo60Tube mate you never disappoint. Best channel on youtube by far. Super excited. I guess ill see in March what the market has to offer. The F13 640D could easily creep back up in price. But been seeing them around 65k miles to 80miles 2012/2013 around £10k to £13k (17.4AUD to 24.5AUD). If i see a E93 335 super mint (with DCT super low miles and full service history) I don't think I could resist. The e93 looks much better as a convertible than the F13 640 but then the F13 is such a sexy coupe. I would feel like i'm cheating going for N55 as this channel is all about N54 lol. Lots of thinking so do. Respect 😎
Still android 9, but its new firmware. I found a repository with like 100 different firmware versions for the BMW androids. With the new firmware i have full control with the idrive controller which is mega compared to what it was. It only used to work in some apps. I have learnt a lot about how to identify what hardware you have in the units and how to upgrade both the firmware and MCU with the correct version. Will do a video on it tomorrow.
This is SO IMPORTANT!!!!!! Some rivets might have a corresponding hole on the cylinder head but many don't, those rivets won't compress and you will leak.
Zero To 60 I’m pretty sure cometic and mlsr measurements are uncompressed I’ve got a new cometic in the shed for my new Rb30 build I’ll measure myself and get back to you in an hour
Zero To 60 just checked the cometic gasket iv got meant to be a 51thou thick and measuring up at 50.5 thou the same way you measured yours so I dare say you would loose approximately 1-2 thou compressed on the engine so mine might end up being 48thou yours will be absolutely fine to use as I mentioned thicker is better to drop comp mind you you’re only talking maybe 10-1 down to 9.9-1 you’re doing fine to get yourself driving again but do remember it’s only a quick fix so don’t get depressed if it all fails again down the track thus is all the fun of high performance cars pushing the limits till you find what breaks then make it stronger and do it all again I’m on my third engine build and gearbox now auto and numerous diff changes to make it all stronger have fun that’s what it’s all about even the best engine builders in the world have failures when pushing the boundaries
Chemicals work OK if you treat it like a subaru - do it every service before the oil change. But yeah, walnut blaster is waaaaay better. So seafoam / nulon foaming air intake cleaner / subaru upper engine cleaner. Thicker headgasket = more boost! Quick search says roughly 0.025" equates to about 0.5:1 less compression. You're about half that, so not a huge amount of compression reduction.
Im concerned about the measurement tho, well the way i did it. From what i can find out 1 hole should be thinner than a 2 hole head gasket. But i don't think N54;s should ever have 1 hole. Slightly concerned about pistons hitting valves, mainly. Also keep in mind at stock compression and 27psi i am already out of efficiency of the turbos. So more boost i push the more unnecessary heat i'll be producing. Really need stock compression for the 17t's well for the continued testing to be relevant anyway.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Do you have a micrometer? Something that can go around the gasket better? Slightly lower compression will just mean its a bit safer for the engine all round. You wont make quite as much power, but you should be able to run the full 27psi longer, have less timing corrections etc. Gasket thickness measurements are usually given as the compressed thickness. So based on how MLS work, measuring ~1.5mm thick new probably does relate to a 1.2mm thick gasket when torqued down.
@zeroto60 I don't know much about these but Turner Motorsports has 2 hole 1.215mm same as ECS Tuning. Says for use with Unmachined head. If I had to guess maybe the 1.5 mm is for resurfaced head. www.turnermotorsport.com/p-22177-genuine-bmw-cylinder-head-gasket-11127557265/
I think 30psi will take the 17t turbos way out of efficiency. Although the engine could handle the boost on a correctly sized turbo. The heat from the 17ts would be a worry.
Email Ghassan Automotive or ABR Houston. They build N54's daily. Not sure if you have already gotten an answer but in the event you have not; either of these 2 companies will know.
I think the "lock" isn't correct on those headgaskets because you got "elring" which is oem but still aftermarket in a way so hasnt gone through bmw quality inspection.......if these gaskets where sent to bmw then it would need the "locks" to be correct for bmw's system but for elring its meaningless
i think fcp euro supplys the gasket you got because the thinking is if you bought a top end kit you would have had the head surfaced but the 16 thou thicker gasket should not be a drama as it would lower the compression a bees dick which means you should be able to run more boost ecs tuning says factory head gasket replacement on a unmachined cylinder head should be 1.215mm elring head mls also 1.215mm on unmachined cylinder head check out ecs tuning web site hope this helps or get the head faced cheers glenn
Thanks glenn, Well they have supplied the part number i asked for. Which should be a 1.2mm. Dont get me wrong these could be 1.2, when properly compressed. Im just not sure why they have 1 hole instead of 2. We will work it out soon.
Grab a drill bit, done 😜 don't measure with the rubber mating surfaces measure the metal surface only. Metal will compares when torqued down fractions of a mm which is why ur stocker is 1.15
Just buy a bigger one get it in. Then measure it. Find out it comes in at 1.9. Then send it back. If its not then you know it dont compress .4 under load and they sent the wrong one.
Zero To 60 definitely need it with double heavy springs. With your gaskets, measure at the edge. A quick google I found 1.215mm thick which should be stock thickness part number 11127557265.
Had crack at your "hack", holy shit makes the process much more stable. Its almost un-easy squeezing the thing down. Thanks for checking the part numbers. I ordered that number from FCP, they link it to the elring that i got.... as elring should be the OE supplier. We'll see what they come back with.
If you look at Elrings website they only make a 1.2mm and the 1.5mm head gasket for the N54, so you have either a 1.2 which is the same you currently have or a 1.5 which still works. The "loch" situation might just be an error on Elring. Neither of the gaskets on their website have a single "loch" on the gasket
Free lower compression = dial in more boost
And lose low end torque?
Once you get over 500 you don't need or want anymore torque, you want horsepower.@@ichoozjc
cant wait to see you back up and running bro! stay strong! team n54 ftw!!
Had a similar issue when I accidentally removed the head from my wife's Alfa! The aftermarket seem to assume you will have skimmed the head! The only people I could get a factory thickness gasket from was the dealer (and even then it had to be flown in from Italy!). I suspect the dealer may be the only source.
Possibly, but FCP are normally pretty good with OEM parts.
The old gasket is compressed. We use to run a cometic multiple layer on our drag car so we could refresh the engine between pass if we needed to they use to state the gasket could be re compressed up to 15 times or a surton mileage. But the gasket had to be inspect and measured from the cylinder side out over with vernier's to check it was still in spec and not staying compressed before reinstalling it. They also had different layers for different thickness so you could buy a 3 5 or 7 layer
Right thats great info. Measure from inside out. Will re-check how it measures up.
Absolute benefit slightly more compression. Figured id just say that for the 50th time. Well done
I dont know how it work on n54, but on diesel bmw engines, more holes is ticker gasket, less holes is thin gasket. the first step to machine n54 head is -0.3, so i think 1.55 is the ticker gasket. If you not machine the head just replace with original size one. all the photos i see from 725-390 have 2 holes, is very strange that yours only have 1.
The holes seem to correspond to the amount of ‘piston protrusion’ measured at a couple of nominated locations during assembly. It sounds like bmw would fit 1, 2 or 3 hole depending on this measurement which must have something to do with how the machining and assembly tolerances add up during manufacturing. Try googling for this.
Man the only thing I hate about owning a BMW is the waiting on parts. No matter what you need it has to be ordered and shipped. My trucks, I just hop online and order, usually Oriellys or Advance have it in stock, if not Dodge always does. Motor parts just call a local Cummins dealer and same day. I cannot imagine living in Australia and having to wait weeks for bolts or gaskets lol, man you all must be damn patient.
Check the cam tray ledges, vehicular diy recently did his and gives a good explanation as to why it should get done.
Ask FCP if they have a two-hole gasket, then compare part numbers. Send them a pic! As others have said, thicker won’t cause any issues, but yes, it would be nice to know. Cheers!
Did some digging and came up with conflicting information as well. The short of it is, that the 3 hole gasket is supposed to be thicker to offset heads that have been machined flat (~0.1 - 0.2mm), while the 2 hole version is the standard size. Idk mate, but whatever gasket you have there does not follow this pattern. I'd be very hesitant to install this one as well. Probably better to wait for the original BMW one.
Yeah its a difficult one. Hopefully FCP can shed some light on it. This was ordered as the OEM stock thickness part number. It should be what you get from the dealer. but something's off. We'll get to the bottom of it soon
Oh and thank you for looking in to it. It sounds like we got the same info tho.
If you do ARP head bolts be careful. I’ve heard bad outcomes with.
Also I love fcp but rock auto for gaskets works just as good. Just get reputable brands
nice video again , will you block the headports and get rid of the worthless oem PCV system ? :)
Well on my engine i run, port injection and a catch can. So it shouldn't be an issue.
@@ZeroTo60Tube True, but it you go with blocked ports you also dont get boost entering the rocker cover :)
MLS do crush, they are design to accommodate the head trying to lift underboost and keep everything sealed.
I would be inclined to fit it, worst case you lower your compression ration, meaning you can run more boost and time before knock or detination.
Love the videos guys. Would you mind listing all the parts required.
I will once i know i've got it all right hehe
My opinion, ignore the part numbers and trust the measurements, Elring has clearly assumed you will have skimmed the head, a genuine one might not be that expensive, you could use the old one but for peace of mind I would go new.
Did I just hear you correct?
The stock gasket has 4 layers of metal sheet to make a thickness of 1.2mm. 0.3mm metal sheet thickness.
The one used for the machined head has 5 layers of metal sheet. Making the head gasket a thickness of 1.5mm. This is what I found in my experience as I'm also doing a head job.
Ahhh thats interesting. No one has mentioned number of layers. Thank you. I will check that right now.
I've rebuilt both a N47 and M57 using Elring gaskets and the hole system was in line with BMW spec on both. I would suspect there is a mistake somewhere and you have the wrong gaskets.
That is what i am fearing..... we'll know soon i guess.
My HPFP GONE , did you refit bmw one when you replaced ? Great buy 330 ! Where you get idea for that I wonder Thanks
I went genuine to be “safe” with the power I was chasing while running ethanol. But I have read if quite a few people running the aftermarket ones with no problemsZ
Appreciated is that osais one or just any ? They’re about £200 as always couldn’t come worse time I love to hate Bmw. The bong depression like one Pavlovs Dogs lol
While you have the block out you should throw in some deck inserts
I won’t in this one, but will with the other engine. Have you seen any good options out there? I’ve only found the vac and one other option, but both required me sending my block to them.
Last time I did the job I used both walnut and CRC. The walnut is much faster, as you found, but the liquids can get into the tiny crevasses. In the future I will use both again. The job looks a lot easier when the head is off the engine though. :)
I checked TIS and couldn't find any info on the head gasket ID, but it does list the machining limit for the head as 0.3 mm. So if the stock gasket is 1.2 and the replacement is 1.5 then there is your 0.3 mm.
On RealOEM I see two listings for N54 head gasket
- 11127557265 is 1.215 mm thick: www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=VB73-USA-10-2006-E90-BMW-335i&mg=11&sg=15&diagId=11_3966&q=11127557265
- 11127557266 is 1.52 mm thick: www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=VB73-USA-10-2006-E90-BMW-335i&mg=11&sg=15&diagId=11_3966&q=11127557266
The thicker gasket is listed as (+0.3mm) on RealOEM. ECS Tuning makes a distinction in the thickness of the two gaskets. FCP Euro only specifies the thickness of the thicker gasket as 1.52 mm (+0.30 thicker than stock). The thickness of the thinner gasket is not specified on their website listing for the BMW and Elring parts.
Hey bro absolute love the channel but with the 335 always being in the shop it puts me off buying one.
I was gonna ask you bro as i finally got my BMW E93 325 and loving it. But in March I want to upgrade. My dream has always been to buy the 335 having seen your channel which motivated to consider doing a budget build, but your 335 N54 seems to always be in the shop & always broken! Lol ( not a dig in anyway love the channel) I was wondering did you buy a good example with low miles, stock and full service history???
A clean example in England is £10k/17.61AUD and then another £10k to build the car. That would be 2011 Bmw 335 MSport E93 DCT 38,000 miles as an example everything mint. Every extra going!!
So got my thinking with this covid 19 the 2012 2014 Bmw 640 D Msport might be a better option very cheap to run. The 640d is normally £20k/35kAud. But now around £10k with this Covid 19 so the same price as the Bmw 335.
All I would need initially is a remap and carbon pack (splitter spoiler wing mirror etc & maybe a wrap) more exterior than engine.
What are your thoughts bro as i want a reliable fast car.
640d with a remap is 752Nm of torque and comes with 20inch alloys.
I need some advice lol 😁😎😎
Respect 💪🏾👊
Mine was not a good example. It was about half what they were selling for at the time i bought it. Had multiple coolant leaks, so probably been overheated by the previous owner. I got on top of the maintanance then promptly pumped all of the boost in to it.
I think fast and reliable are 2 words that dont really go well together. It one or the other.
However my personal opinon on current offerings. For now, the EWG N55 running stage 2+ decat and intercooler, is probably the best balance. Of the 2. A build on a N54 will be quicker than a Aventador, but you'll be continually doing little things. The stage 2 N55 will be like Gallardo quick and relatively hassle free if you get a low milage one and stay on top of it.
@@ZeroTo60Tube mate you never disappoint. Best channel on youtube by far. Super excited. I guess ill see in March what the market has to offer.
The F13 640D could easily creep back up in price. But been seeing them around 65k miles to 80miles 2012/2013 around £10k to £13k (17.4AUD to 24.5AUD). If i see a E93 335 super mint (with DCT super low miles and full service history) I don't think I could resist. The e93 looks much better as a convertible than the F13 640 but then the F13 is such a sexy coupe.
I would feel like i'm cheating going for N55 as this channel is all about N54 lol. Lots of thinking so do.
Respect 😎
Did you upgrade the head unit to a newer version of android? if so, how?.. I have the same one.
Still android 9, but its new firmware. I found a repository with like 100 different firmware versions for the BMW androids. With the new firmware i have full control with the idrive controller which is mega compared to what it was. It only used to work in some apps. I have learnt a lot about how to identify what hardware you have in the units and how to upgrade both the firmware and MCU with the correct version. Will do a video on it tomorrow.
Do you order most of your parts from America ? Must be hard with import tax ?? Love this content !!
It’s still a lot cheaper than BMW Australia unfortunately. BMW tax is a thing here.... haha
And remember to drill out the head gasket rivits if they come into contact with deck surface
This is SO IMPORTANT!!!!!! Some rivets might have a corresponding hole on the cylinder head but many don't, those rivets won't compress and you will leak.
All good with the head gasket as you will have less comp means more boost and more power
Do you think that way of measuring it is ok? Also any thoughts on why the old one is thinner than it ever should be? This is all new to me..... :S
Zero To 60 I’m pretty sure cometic and mlsr measurements are uncompressed
I’ve got a new cometic in the shed for my new Rb30 build I’ll measure myself and get back to you in an hour
Zero To 60 just checked the cometic gasket iv got meant to be a 51thou thick and measuring up at 50.5 thou the same way you measured yours so I dare say you would loose approximately 1-2 thou compressed on the engine so mine might end up being 48thou yours will be absolutely fine to use as I mentioned thicker is better to drop comp mind you you’re only talking maybe 10-1 down to 9.9-1 you’re doing fine to get yourself driving again but do remember it’s only a quick fix so don’t get depressed if it all fails again down the track thus is all the fun of high performance cars pushing the limits till you find what breaks then make it stronger and do it all again I’m on my third engine build and gearbox now auto and numerous diff changes to make it all stronger have fun that’s what it’s all about even the best engine builders in the world have failures when pushing the boundaries
Chemicals work OK if you treat it like a subaru - do it every service before the oil change. But yeah, walnut blaster is waaaaay better. So seafoam / nulon foaming air intake cleaner / subaru upper engine cleaner. Thicker headgasket = more boost! Quick search says roughly 0.025" equates to about 0.5:1 less compression. You're about half that, so not a huge amount of compression reduction.
Im concerned about the measurement tho, well the way i did it. From what i can find out 1 hole should be thinner than a 2 hole head gasket. But i don't think N54;s should ever have 1 hole. Slightly concerned about pistons hitting valves, mainly. Also keep in mind at stock compression and 27psi i am already out of efficiency of the turbos. So more boost i push the more unnecessary heat i'll be producing. Really need stock compression for the 17t's well for the continued testing to be relevant anyway.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Do you have a micrometer? Something that can go around the gasket better? Slightly lower compression will just mean its a bit safer for the engine all round. You wont make quite as much power, but you should be able to run the full 27psi longer, have less timing corrections etc. Gasket thickness measurements are usually given as the compressed thickness. So based on how MLS work, measuring ~1.5mm thick new probably does relate to a 1.2mm thick gasket when torqued down.
I dont have a micrometer unfortunately, its another thing on the list to get soon.
Love these vids but could be a good idea to invest in lighting or a light on your camera. 😉
We'll get there. I hope anyway haha
Good stuff
@zeroto60 I don't know much about these but Turner Motorsports has 2 hole 1.215mm same as ECS Tuning. Says for use with Unmachined head. If I had to guess maybe the 1.5 mm is for resurfaced head. www.turnermotorsport.com/p-22177-genuine-bmw-cylinder-head-gasket-11127557265/
I would just clean the factory metal gasket and spray with copper coat. The 1.5mm headgasket will be good for 30psi + of boost on your built motor
I think 30psi will take the 17t turbos way out of efficiency. Although the engine could handle the boost on a correctly sized turbo. The heat from the 17ts would be a worry.
Email Ghassan Automotive or ABR Houston. They build N54's daily. Not sure if you have already gotten an answer but in the event you have not; either of these 2 companies will know.
I think the "lock" isn't correct on those headgaskets because you got "elring" which is oem but still aftermarket in a way so hasnt gone through bmw quality inspection.......if these gaskets where sent to bmw then it would need the "locks" to be correct for bmw's system but for elring its meaningless
i think fcp euro supplys the gasket you got because the thinking is if you bought a top end kit you would have had the head surfaced but the 16 thou thicker gasket should not be a drama as it would lower the compression a bees dick which means you should be able to run more boost ecs tuning says factory head gasket replacement on a unmachined cylinder head should be 1.215mm elring head mls also 1.215mm on unmachined cylinder head check out ecs tuning web site hope this helps or get the head faced cheers glenn
Thanks glenn, Well they have supplied the part number i asked for. Which should be a 1.2mm. Dont get me wrong these could be 1.2, when properly compressed. Im just not sure why they have 1 hole instead of 2. We will work it out soon.
@@ZeroTo60Tube peace of mind get the head skimmed 10 thou then either way your in the ball park and probably quicker good luck
Well what if this gasket is the 1.2mm when compressed. Skiming might cause a problem. I need some more solid info on the situation thats for sure.
@@ZeroTo60Tube i just spent almost 2 hours trying to find crush measurements on mls head gaskets to no evail just wait and see from fpc
Haha, it’s a strange one. Looks like we went down the same google path to no avail.
Grab a drill bit, done 😜 don't measure with the rubber mating surfaces measure the metal surface only. Metal will compares when torqued down fractions of a mm which is why ur stocker is 1.15
Right..... ill check that and see what numbers I get.
Just buy a bigger one get it in. Then measure it. Find out it comes in at 1.9. Then send it back. If its not then you know it dont compress .4 under load and they sent the wrong one.
👍👍👍
If you’re using the g clamp style compressor remove the handle and jam a old style jack handle on it. Makes life soooo much easier
Ha, good idea. Thanks for the tip.
Zero To 60 definitely need it with double heavy springs. With your gaskets, measure at the edge. A quick google I found 1.215mm thick which should be stock thickness part number 11127557265.
Had crack at your "hack", holy shit makes the process much more stable. Its almost un-easy squeezing the thing down. Thanks for checking the part numbers. I ordered that number from FCP, they link it to the elring that i got.... as elring should be the OE supplier. We'll see what they come back with.
👍👍👍 so much easier on the hands. That was the elring part number I found
you need a parts washer.
A.K.A dishwasher
We actually have an old one, but just saving up for the parts cleaner fluid... thats shi*ts expensive.