wow! this is insane! I saw other videos where you don't even have to remove the hub. That's insanely and way too much unnecessary work. but thank you for putting up the video.
For all the comments about this being the complicated way to do the job: this allows you to get a socket (and an impact wrench or a breaker bar) on the castle nut. If you can get your cotter pin out, and feel comfortable getting the castle nut off - and then torqueing it back on to spec - with an open end wrench? Then yeah, you don't need to disassemble the axle. I couldn't get the cotter pin out, and needed the access. An open end wrench would have destroyed the nut before I could have gotten enough torque on the castle nut to free it. There are three improvements I would make to this video, though. 1st, I would mention that you can take the ball joint out IF you can start and remove the castle nut with an open end wrench (the box end will likely not fit. Space to the axle is tight.) 2nd, I would put way more emphasis on the possibility, with this method, of messing up your CV axle inner joint. As in (STOP HERE. DO NOT PROCEED UNTIL YOUR AXLE IS FREE FROM THE HUB.) And, 3rd, if you don't have a large punch to free the splines, use the old shade-tree standby, a block of wood to hammer on.
Why do you do three times amount of work and make it so hard to do a simple job? You do not have to remove the wheel assembly from the strut at all. Remove the steering knuckle, unbolt the ball joint and pull out the wheel assembly from the axle. That’s all you need to do then you can remove the ball joint. Very simple
Every vid I have seen has this same process. I see what you are pointing out though. I have done it the way you described years ago, but it's been a while.
Why do you do three times the amount of work that you need to? There’s no reason to take the wheel hub off of the strut. You simply unbolt the lower ball joint what you’re gonna have to do anyway and the steering joint and then pull your axle out. That’s all you gotta do then you can remove the ball joint.
!!!!!EVERYONE IN THE COMMENTS!!!!! every other video shows JUST removing the cotter pin, THEN remove crown nut, THEN remove ball joint. ha that is in a perfect world boy let me tell you! in my case I have a 97 camry with the 2.2L beast. and the ball joints had not been replaced in 10 years+ and after notice my snapon flank wrench wasn't gonna crack the crown nut. then came time to removing axle from the hub
![ง้อ (ALRIGHT) - FOURTH Prod. by URBOYTJ [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qs8ZeV6Dqj8/mqdefault.jpg)
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Why not use an open end wrench on the ball joint nut and then a pickle fork to save all the disassemble?
This is the crazies way of replacing a ball joint.
All i used was an open end wrench and pickle fork..no need for all the extra work
wow! this is insane! I saw other videos where you don't even have to remove the hub. That's insanely and way too much unnecessary work. but thank you for putting up the video.
For all the comments about this being the complicated way to do the job: this allows you to get a socket (and an impact wrench or a breaker bar) on the castle nut. If you can get your cotter pin out, and feel comfortable getting the castle nut off - and then torqueing it back on to spec - with an open end wrench? Then yeah, you don't need to disassemble the axle. I couldn't get the cotter pin out, and needed the access. An open end wrench would have destroyed the nut before I could have gotten enough torque on the castle nut to free it. There are three improvements I would make to this video, though. 1st, I would mention that you can take the ball joint out IF you can start and remove the castle nut with an open end wrench (the box end will likely not fit. Space to the axle is tight.) 2nd, I would put way more emphasis on the possibility, with this method, of messing up your CV axle inner joint. As in (STOP HERE. DO NOT PROCEED UNTIL YOUR AXLE IS FREE FROM THE HUB.) And, 3rd, if you don't have a large punch to free the splines, use the old shade-tree standby, a block of wood to hammer on.
Why do you do three times amount of work and make it so hard to do a simple job? You do not have to remove the wheel assembly from the strut at all. Remove the steering knuckle, unbolt the ball joint and pull out the wheel assembly from the axle. That’s all you need to do then you can remove the ball joint. Very simple
Thought I was crazy seeing them do it overly complicated😂😭
@@zhu6449 @Zhu I'm disappointed because he did not removed the engine off of car to do that 😂😂😂😂🙈🙊😎
Every vid I have seen has this same process. I see what you are pointing out though. I have done it the way you described years ago, but it's been a while.
@@Joserocha-wm9de hahaha!
Why do you do three times the amount of work that you need to? There’s no reason to take the wheel hub off of the strut. You simply unbolt the lower ball joint what you’re gonna have to do anyway and the steering joint and then pull your axle out. That’s all you gotta do then you can remove the ball joint.
!!!!!EVERYONE IN THE COMMENTS!!!!!
every other video shows JUST removing the cotter pin, THEN remove crown nut, THEN remove ball joint.
ha that is in a perfect world boy let me tell you!
in my case I have a 97 camry with the 2.2L beast. and the ball joints had not been replaced in 10 years+ and after notice my snapon flank wrench wasn't gonna crack the crown nut. then came time to removing axle from the hub
Forgot to show reinstalling the tie rod.
What are you supposed to do if the brake dust shield is preventing being able to install new ball joint?
What brand gloves are those
torque???? i just do like 5 ugaduggas
I use open end and pickle fork..way too much time spent on a simple job