They make switching regulators that are extremely low ripple now. I highly recommend using that instead on a restoration if it's for general use. Obviously a Museum restoration you want to keep original but day to day use it's way better than having all the heat in the case brittling the plastic and stressing the other components
Dont get me started on the 65XE, I had one, wanted a ST, imagine my disappointment christmas 85-87 getting an XE, I grew to love it once I bought a second hand floppy disc drive for it.
Mighty impressive beard... however, does it not feel like you have a super hairy and dense vagina on your face all day? Must get in your mouth when eating.
For non-leaded solder, it actually flowed and looked quite decent to work with. Anyone know the brand/type? I don't do a tonne of soldering, only on controllers or other small items, but I only ever used leaded - purposefully staying away from unleaded due to its negative reputation. As it can be hit or miss with some brands being better than others, I would be curious to know this particular type.
"There are many like it, but this one is mine". I see what you did there. But did you take that from the movie "Full Metal Jacket" or straight from the Marine's Rifle Creed? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍👍
It’s true. I also use leaded on vintage machines that also have leaded solder already because mixing the two is bad. These machines should never go into landfill either, so the likelihood of them being dumped in a way that means the lead leaches into the water table is very small.
Is there any truth to the theory that repeatedly programming the ROM image into an EPROM (say 3 times) reinforces the programming reducing the chances of decay? Secondly I always cover the window but more out of OCD than anything, well I have a label printer so it's a convenient way of labelling it to. I left EPROMS outside here in the sun for two weeks solid (i wanted them erased) and yet they verified perfectly - annoyingly.
Programming an EPROM simply flips the bits on the cells so I would suspect this isn’t true. The cell can’t be more flipped with repeated programming. Labelling is essential. I just didn’t in this video before I tried the cart! Thanks for watching!!
@@MarkFixesStuff As you say it can't be more flipped but was something along the lines of the number of electrons trapped to make it go from 1 -> 0 and over time they decay so the more trapped the long it takes to decay. Well above my understanding though tbh
@@digitalarchaeologist5102 I’ve had UV erasable eproms readable after decades so I don’t really think it’s worth worrying about. Not sure on the definitive answer though.
Long time viewer here and I have to say, I look forward to when you post a new video. However, long and far between, there's hasn't been anything to learn from in your content for a very long time. Just putting chips on a board with some close ups. Seeing more about the programmer or the diagnostic cart would have been nice. Some links o .hex files, a reading of heir changelog.. Just anything, really. C'mon, Mahhk, you got more in you than making short PCBWay infomercials.
I’ve already covered a couple of those things. Really this is just me doing bits and bobs in my hobby and I really know there are a lot more skilled purveyors of info than myself. I’ll bear it in mind though
As another guy in the european zone where leaded solder shouldnt be a thing anymore. I have to say besides small things that unleaded solder is some of the worst stuff x.x
I have no idea what any of this was or did or is for, but it was great!
SAME!!!!
It's good to see Terry and Dave working for a change.
If it's Atari Related, IT'S ALWAYS WORTH DOING. Excellent computers.
They make switching regulators that are extremely low ripple now. I highly recommend using that instead on a restoration if it's for general use. Obviously a Museum restoration you want to keep original but day to day use it's way better than having all the heat in the case brittling the plastic and stressing the other components
I absolutely agree. A Traco or OKI switching regulator is a really good replacement for older machines. I do miss that "warm smell" though!
Agreed 100% - Retro Computer Shack cables are indeed amazing.
I have no idea what I watched but it was relaxing. 😌👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Really enjoying more frequent uploads, always a good day when mark drops a new vid
More to come!
Dont get me started on the 65XE, I had one, wanted a ST, imagine my disappointment christmas 85-87 getting an XE, I grew to love it once I bought a second hand floppy disc drive for it.
Haha! Loads of people had that! Same with the C64 and people getting a C16 or a Vic 20!
My fume extractors are my nostrils 😁
Don’t come here today then. I’m leaving a trail of fumes behind me!!
Insert witty comment here.
Mighty impressive beard... however, does it not feel like you have a super hairy and dense vagina on your face all day? Must get in your mouth when eating.
Don’t tell me what to do!
The makers of Kapton tape missed a trick when it's usually used as Kept On tape... I'm here all week. PS: 27C64 for an Atari board? Pure heresy.
This is “Koptan” tape 😂 so I doubt the manufacturers of this particular roll care. C64 heresy? Let’s get heretical!
For non-leaded solder, it actually flowed and looked quite decent to work with. Anyone know the brand/type?
I don't do a tonne of soldering, only on controllers or other small items, but I only ever used leaded - purposefully staying away from unleaded due to its negative reputation. As it can be hit or miss with some brands being better than others, I would be curious to know this particular type.
For unleaded I tend to use DURATOOL D03341
@@MarkFixesStuff Cheers.
"There are many like it, but this one is mine".
I see what you did there. But did you take that from the movie "Full Metal Jacket" or straight from the Marine's Rifle Creed?
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍👍
It’s always a film reference with me. I don’t know much about fighty stuff!
Nothing wrong with using leaded solder for home projects.
It’s true. I also use leaded on vintage machines that also have leaded solder already because mixing the two is bad. These machines should never go into landfill either, so the likelihood of them being dumped in a way that means the lead leaches into the water table is very small.
If your Atari is black screen or green etc will you get the menu with this cartridge?
WHAT!? No socket for the capacitor???!
No socket for the socket either. I’m a bad man.
I believe that if one feeds the Kapton tape to the Smurfs, they _will_ produce.
They prefer blueberry jalfrezi
@@MarkFixesStuff Oh those silly snobs.
Is there any truth to the theory that repeatedly programming the ROM image into an EPROM (say 3 times) reinforces the programming reducing the chances of decay? Secondly I always cover the window but more out of OCD than anything, well I have a label printer so it's a convenient way of labelling it to. I left EPROMS outside here in the sun for two weeks solid (i wanted them erased) and yet they verified perfectly - annoyingly.
Programming an EPROM simply flips the bits on the cells so I would suspect this isn’t true. The cell can’t be more flipped with repeated programming. Labelling is essential. I just didn’t in this video before I tried the cart! Thanks for watching!!
@@MarkFixesStuff As you say it can't be more flipped but was something along the lines of the number of electrons trapped to make it go from 1 -> 0 and over time they decay so the more trapped the long it takes to decay. Well above my understanding though tbh
@@digitalarchaeologist5102 I’ve had UV erasable eproms readable after decades so I don’t really think it’s worth worrying about. Not sure on the definitive answer though.
Long time viewer here and I have to say, I look forward to when you post a new video. However, long and far between, there's hasn't been anything to learn from in your content for a very long time. Just putting chips on a board with some close ups. Seeing more about the programmer or the diagnostic cart would have been nice. Some links o .hex files, a reading of heir changelog.. Just anything, really. C'mon, Mahhk, you got more in you than making short PCBWay infomercials.
I’ve already covered a couple of those things. Really this is just me doing bits and bobs in my hobby and I really know there are a lot more skilled purveyors of info than myself. I’ll bear it in mind though
Hi mark great video again, I've got about 40 8k erproms if you want any let me know and I'll post you 10😊
Hi Richard! Thank you for the offer but I have ordered 20 frrm Aliexpress now! It's very kind of you though!
I like to slip my parts into new sockets
Nothing like the feeling!
Can I huff the dust 🥺
Solder with lead is actually better choice.
Mmmm, soldery blobs in close up. 😁
Sometimes it's the simple things Jen.
"Got any O's"?
"Foot pumps?"
Bill Hooks
@@MarkFixesStuff They did say that was one of their worst endings to a skit.
It took me about five years to even get the "joke". lol
@@electronash I believe the ending was rewritten for a stage performance as 'knockers.'
@@baxtardboy Yep, that sounds plausible.
The BBC were over-sensitive, even back then.
I think that would have been a perfectly fine innuendo. lol
8:41, thats what he said...
I meant the list!!!
As another guy in the european zone where leaded solder shouldnt be a thing anymore. I have to say besides small things that unleaded solder is some of the worst stuff x.x
Liberate your own package 😂
Swinging low and free… right now!
Anything for Atari is always worth the effort - even if it is for the 800XLs ugly younger brother.
I have an OG 800 here...
No.
You might well be correct.