Pro-tip for joining cables: never make the join in the same place on both wires. What I mean is, for example, on one length of cable cut the positive an inch shorter than the negative and then, on the other cable, cut the negative an inch shorter than the positive. The end result is that the joins will be staggered by an inch, which means the join will be smoother and, most importantly, it means the two hard, soldered, joins aren't rubbing against each other and, potentially, damaging the heat-shrink and insulation. Even if, worst case scenario, both bits of heat-shrink get damaged, the two bare joins can't short against each other because they're an inch apart.
*TIPS* #1, on the wiring diagram, move the fuse to fuse both the device AND the switch otherwise you have a "non fused circuit"! #2 when trimming the zip ties, use the heated up tip of you soldering iron (or simply heat up a blade or something steel) and melt the sharp bit off and you'll then save cutting fingers on it later! #3 use multi colours of electrical tape (can purchase a bundle of different colour tapes at an electrical store) and small coloured zip ties when installing use the same colour for each circuit so that later on when you are fixing/replacing/upgrading you know what wire it for what circuit (use a yellow zip tie for say canopy light, when you are on the track and something has stopped working you can look under the bonnet and go straight for the yellow tape/zip tie and will save a lot of time and frustration.. #4 get a sheet of paper, write down the colours used for each circuit, and it's size of wires, fuses and what it controls, and tape it to the top of the passenger sun visor (or tucked away somewhere you'll remember) and when it's 11pm, you're on the side of a trail with only a head torch, and you'll be able to look at your bit of paper and know exactly what colour circuit you need to look at/fix/replace fuse and you'll already know the size of fuse and which wires to look at!! I do hope this helps some! These are only the ones I could think of right now!
@@peterbest2434 absolutely huge fail on that circuit for sure. Like these guys, but (in my opinion) tbh... and im sure they'll agree to a point... They are not professionals in these things (so to speak, etc), but helping everyone out, and making content........ As such, the content should be correct. Not a Rig Bonfire 900km from nowhere. Editing and proofing guys... and maybe actually watch a few soldering and wiring videos, so you can show us how its done correctly. Also silicone grease before primary shrink, dry and fully shrink over. Waterproof. Use reusable electrical cable ties, they have mount holes and can be released. Soz
If you buy the right pair of side cutters, they are flush on the backside rather than angled in. This makes cutting the ends of the zip ties smooth, which is what it looks like he has done.
That's it, lower than the cable but higher than the load so make sure to use over rated cable! A very common problem I see in cars at work that come in!
@@4WD247 would be cool to see a video based around fishing as its something ive been wanting to get into but dont know much about. And im sure theres s lot of others with 4wds that would be keen
@@4WD247 I drive a geriatric Land Rover, what do you reckon, that's when I'm not helping fingering my mate's "bombproof" Nissan D21 D22.😆 I don't know what's more needy, the Landy or him😂
Great video mate! I'm definitely installing some rock lights for the night runs and the other lights around the body for general use and this has helped me a lot! Cheers!
One tip that I don't see mentioned very often is, when running any cable/wire from outside the vehicle to the inside, where possible, try to have an excess amount of cable that hangs below the entry point so that water will drip off the loop & not pool at the grommet/entry point. Also, a good rule of thumb, is to ensure you have a fuse or fuse block as close as possible to the +tiv battery terminal when installing new or any wiring (Just to back up what others have said) Keep up the good work Jock 😃👍
I took a 9-24v to 12v power supply to get a solid 12v (not 14.8) and used a cheap 12v ledbar in multi color. Glued that around the top of the canopy. Can also do amber where the bugs are out.
Excellent DIY vid mate, it would be really handy to see a pic or two of how you terminated / joined all the earth wires and power wires from each device prior to connecting to the relay. And in this instance am I right in saying all lights are switched both on and off (all together) with one the switch?……..maybe excess power consumption when cooking out the back of the vehicle with the lights on in the wheel well?
Exactly! - For those wondering why, if you put the fuse to rating to the accessories and the cable is under sized, the cable will get hot and potentially burn down all your hard work. The cable should be sized appropriately to handle all the accessories on that circuit along with any volt drop for longer runs.
Tips with the soldering: get some liquid flux (especially useful when soldering onto older copper), then you tin both ends of the wires first (coat them in solder). Then all you do is hold them together and heat the join and the two ends fuse together. The flux chemically cleans the copper and helps the solder flow, so you get good joins.
ive found you can use breakers at the battery end and a fuse per light alternatively you could put the breakers in your canopy or elsewhere if you run a main power cable to your desired location
Move the fuse close to the battery and in a position so it covers both the supply AND switch. Never have unfused power running throughout the cab. Only need one short to make a bbq
For me rock lights have always been a bit of a wank factor only because realistically your in the driver seat you can't see your tires anyway so from that point of view there a waste, if you need a spotter they will need be picking a line before the vehicle is there. I get it there handy if you need to repair at night but then again you can get magnetic rechargeable light is probably a better option because you can put it where it's actually need and not have shadows cast.
Or just simply use a head torch / torch. Waste of money and time kitting a 4wd out with camp lights when you can simply use a torch. The only exception would be a cooking light but even then you can just buy those magnet L.E.Ds But it is a good little project if you like DIY stuff.
Agree, a crimped or screwed type connection all the way, the PDR will shake all soldered connecting loose. Maybe use a drop of solder on a crimped connecting for extra strength, but don't rely on solder...
@@benvivian1615 To be precise: the copper will be weakened and sooner or later break right next to the solder. One can counteract using heatshrink with hot glue which makes it a bit stiffer, but crimping is the preferred (and mandatory!) way.
@@Christian76S I agree for connections to solid points (like the lips on a relay or fusebox) however 'floating' I see less breakages on soldered wires. At-least in my vehicles.
Are all these lights legal? There are laws relating to the number of lights you can have on your car. Police will find any possible reason to bust you.
Jocko and Jesse are killing it atm, appreciate the educational stuff 🤙🏻
Thanks mate! Plenty more of these kind of episodes to come!
Also, get keen for Jocko & Jesse's adventure this weekend!
This must be the most technical stuff i've watch in this channel
Pro-tip for joining cables: never make the join in the same place on both wires.
What I mean is, for example, on one length of cable cut the positive an inch shorter than the negative and then, on the other cable, cut the negative an inch shorter than the positive.
The end result is that the joins will be staggered by an inch, which means the join will be smoother and, most importantly, it means the two hard, soldered, joins aren't rubbing against each other and, potentially, damaging the heat-shrink and insulation.
Even if, worst case scenario, both bits of heat-shrink get damaged, the two bare joins can't short against each other because they're an inch apart.
There's always one person who has the power of the sun lighting up the campsite when you're trying to relax by the fire
Nothing like camping under the stars and never seeing them.
This is so true
Every bug within 50km drops by to say g'day
Jocko with the spottos
*TIPS* #1, on the wiring diagram, move the fuse to fuse both the device AND the switch otherwise you have a "non fused circuit"! #2 when trimming the zip ties, use the heated up tip of you soldering iron (or simply heat up a blade or something steel) and melt the sharp bit off and you'll then save cutting fingers on it later! #3 use multi colours of electrical tape (can purchase a bundle of different colour tapes at an electrical store) and small coloured zip ties when installing use the same colour for each circuit so that later on when you are fixing/replacing/upgrading you know what wire it for what circuit (use a yellow zip tie for say canopy light, when you are on the track and something has stopped working you can look under the bonnet and go straight for the yellow tape/zip tie and will save a lot of time and frustration.. #4 get a sheet of paper, write down the colours used for each circuit, and it's size of wires, fuses and what it controls, and tape it to the top of the passenger sun visor (or tucked away somewhere you'll remember) and when it's 11pm, you're on the side of a trail with only a head torch, and you'll be able to look at your bit of paper and know exactly what colour circuit you need to look at/fix/replace fuse and you'll already know the size of fuse and which wires to look at!!
I do hope this helps some! These are only the ones I could think of right now!
Awesome advise Ben, taa😊
I love your tip #2! My fingers are so thankful...
Tip #1 from Ben might just stop vehicle being burnt to the ground if that unfused wire shorts out. Very bad wiring diagram for Jocko to be putting out
@@peterbest2434 absolutely huge fail on that circuit for sure. Like these guys, but (in my opinion) tbh... and im sure they'll agree to a point... They are not professionals in these things (so to speak, etc), but helping everyone out, and making content........
As such, the content should be correct. Not a Rig Bonfire 900km from nowhere.
Editing and proofing guys... and maybe actually watch a few soldering and wiring videos, so you can show us how its done correctly. Also silicone grease before primary shrink, dry and fully shrink over. Waterproof. Use reusable electrical cable ties, they have mount holes and can be released.
Soz
If you buy the right pair of side cutters, they are flush on the backside rather than angled in. This makes cutting the ends of the zip ties smooth, which is what it looks like he has done.
These lads have made me make the decision of purchasing an 89 Hilux. Man these videos are great!
Awesome video as always 4WD24/7. This video had some very helpful DIY tips.
Good video! It’s always easy watching Jocko’s content 👍
Absolutely love my Tuesdays just for these videos
Thanks mate!
can you please make the same video for a easy dual battery and fridge setup. maybe with a solar panel too :)
Another game changing build😂😂
Imagine been buzzing about been the first person to comment on a TH-cam video😂 well done lad your life has peaked
Never fuse to the rating of the cable.the fuse must be lower then the cable rating otherwise the fuse is pointless.
That's it, lower than the cable but higher than the load so make sure to use over rated cable! A very common problem I see in cars at work that come in!
That paint job is so rad!!
Keep these DIY vids coming
What DIY video should we do next?? 🤔
@@4WD247 would be cool to see a video based around fishing as its something ive been wanting to get into but dont know much about. And im sure theres s lot of others with 4wds that would be keen
I mounted a work light on my old UHF aerial spring mount
Interesting mate
A day in the shed, well spent Jock.👍🏻🍺
Cheers mate, do you have a project you're working on?
@@4WD247
I drive a geriatric Land Rover, what do you reckon, that's when I'm not helping fingering my mate's "bombproof" Nissan D21 D22.😆
I don't know what's more needy, the Landy or him😂
Great video mate! I'm definitely installing some rock lights for the night runs and the other lights around the body for general use and this has helped me a lot! Cheers!
One tip that I don't see mentioned very often is, when running any cable/wire from outside the vehicle to the inside, where possible, try to have an excess amount of cable that hangs below the entry point so that water will drip off the loop & not pool at the grommet/entry point.
Also, a good rule of thumb, is to ensure you have a fuse or fuse block as close as possible to the +tiv battery terminal when installing new or any wiring (Just to back up what others have said)
Keep up the good work Jock 😃👍
I took a 9-24v to 12v power supply to get a solid 12v (not 14.8) and used a cheap 12v ledbar in multi color. Glued that around the top of the canopy. Can also do amber where the bugs are out.
Keep up the good videos fellas👍
We will!
@@4WD247 I wrote a comment with a few tips you missed in the video that'll help
We saw! Appreciate it mate 🍻
Excellent DIY vid mate, it would be really handy to see a pic or two of how you terminated / joined all the earth wires and power wires from each device prior to connecting to the relay. And in this instance am I right in saying all lights are switched both on and off (all together) with one the switch?……..maybe excess power consumption when cooking out the back of the vehicle with the lights on in the wheel well?
Yeah Jocko!
We love your vids
This looks sweet!! 👍
Looks good mate!! 👍👍
Great job Jocko 👍
Cheers mate, was it helpful?
@@4WD247 Absolutely it was. Cheers 🍻 🍻
A quick comment about fusing Jocko, the fuse is there to protect the cable.
Exactly! - For those wondering why, if you put the fuse to rating to the accessories and the cable is under sized, the cable will get hot and potentially burn down all your hard work. The cable should be sized appropriately to handle all the accessories on that circuit along with any volt drop for longer runs.
Make sure you breath in plenty of the solder fumes too 😂
I love these kind of videos 👌👌 thanks boys
nice
Cool setup! Now all you have to figure out is what to do with all the wee beasties attracted by the lights. Lol
Tips with the soldering: get some liquid flux (especially useful when soldering onto older copper), then you tin both ends of the wires first (coat them in solder). Then all you do is hold them together and heat the join and the two ends fuse together. The flux chemically cleans the copper and helps the solder flow, so you get good joins.
ive found you can use breakers at the battery end and a fuse per light alternatively you could put the breakers in your canopy or elsewhere if you run a main power cable to your desired location
Move the fuse close to the battery and in a position so it covers both the supply AND switch. Never have unfused power running throughout the cab. Only need one short to make a bbq
Have to put yellow covers over them so they don’t attract the bugs
Hey guy how long dose it normally take to get one of your prizes
Do we have a video on that bed rack build?
Hi mate, here's the link: th-cam.com/video/1K3HPmYJJCA/w-d-xo.html
Enjoy!
@@4WD247 awesome
How much for the pony I'll buy it jock
That spring won’t work when Jock parks it on its lid. 😅
Mate, I will leave it up to you as I am as useful with electrics as a broken leg is to a runner.
For me rock lights have always been a bit of a wank factor only because realistically your in the driver seat you can't see your tires anyway so from that point of view there a waste, if you need a spotter they will need be picking a line before the vehicle is there. I get it there handy if you need to repair at night but then again you can get magnetic rechargeable light is probably a better option because you can put it where it's actually need and not have shadows cast.
How many ute's does Jocko have to burn down before he's banned from touching 12V? Genuinely frightening!
Half this video is just innuendo 😂
Or just simply use a head torch / torch. Waste of money and time kitting a 4wd out with camp lights when you can simply use a torch. The only exception would be a cooking light but even then you can just buy those magnet L.E.Ds
But it is a good little project if you like DIY stuff.
Michael Jackson heehee
Yo
If I lived in Aussy I would want a roof tent so I don't eaten by something when sleeping
🤣🤣🤣 That's really only if your near the water in croc country. The rest of the stuff we don't give a shit about and just ignore it.
Bruh... drop bears climb, how u think they get up in the trees to drop on you in the first place.
First comment
Hehe
🤙🕶
soldering on a vehicles that are being rocked around constantly is a no-no.
Agree, a crimped or screwed type connection all the way, the PDR will shake all soldered connecting loose. Maybe use a drop of solder on a crimped connecting for extra strength, but don't rely on solder...
@@benvivian1615 To be precise: the copper will be weakened and sooner or later break right next to the solder. One can counteract using heatshrink with hot glue which makes it a bit stiffer, but crimping is the preferred (and mandatory!) way.
@@Christian76S I agree for connections to solid points (like the lips on a relay or fusebox) however 'floating' I see less breakages on soldered wires. At-least in my vehicles.
@@markbergman2342 true
Soldering shouldnt be the primary structural connection.
First
Are all these lights legal? There are laws relating to the number of lights you can have on your car. Police will find any possible reason to bust you.
As long as you don’t have em on as driving lights then your fine. Just use em on tracks and campsites