Whats the purpose of earthing the consumer unit to the van chassis. Does the earth not carry through the hook up cable and if there was a fault with the sore power earth and the van was earthed, you touched the van would you not become the earth?
Hi, fabulous video. Very easy to follow and makes it very simple to understand how and why. My question is this: We are going to spend alot of time off grid, would you recommend adding a third spare, so i could have one lights, one sockets and one say fridge/microwave?
Hi there, I have a small ?, after u attach the mains earth wire to the bus bar, do u then run an earth wire from bus bar to chassis? Thanks heaps, oh and your tutorial is the first I've understood so thank you very much 😊
Could I connect a 5amp charger into that 6amp fuse so when I hook up my charger charges the liesure battery,instead of plugging it in a socket just chop the plug off
Yes I’ve no idea and I watched it twice. Not sure if top and bottom need to be wired on RCB or if I just copy what he did on top onto the bottom. Maybe you can use either end? Don’t know what bar is on top. Does it need to be put on bottom if using bottom ports. I’m more confused after watching this 😅
You should keep the 6A MCB for lighting and change the 16A to 30A if you need more power for sockets. But remember that most campsites are limited to 16A or even 10A per hookup. So 16A+6A is all you need.
you are limited by the rating on you external cable to the 240v supply and the fuse on the ring/ socket/ campsite hookup - so I can't see why you can have more than 16amp in total for all the fuses - unless I'm being thick
Hi Dan - great series of videos, My question is why do you need to add an earth connection to the structure of the van when the external hook-up you are connecting comes with an earth connection, surely it is best to keep the mains wiring totally separate from the van which is connected via the chassis to the (12V) van electrics.
Nick Wood Its a good point but its something you have to do to be on the safe side. A vehicle wouldnt pass a type approval test without one and also if you have run gas pipe in your vehicle that has to be earth bonded as well. I worked for a place that was ncc approved a few years ago and with there conversions they had to be earthed to the vehicle with a specific sized cable as well. Whatever you do dont miss it out but a little tip for you dont earth it underneath the vehicle as it will rust over time and become useless so earth it inside where its accessible if possible. Many thanks for watching
@@dantheman321 Thanks for that information, Dan. In my uneducated opinion, I assumed a 15Amp 240V inlet was where Earth came from, with the fuse box dealing with load independently.
Hi, thanks for the great video. When I come to wire my 240 sockets to this, do you just run from that mcb to the first socket, then to the second and so on. Or does it need to be on a ring? I'm thinking 4/5 sockets for a kettle / microwave and some phone chargers. How does one wire up the sockets to the mcb? Hopefully this question makes sense
My basic electrical knowledge (enough to get me in trouble) is that if this set-up is for an external 15 Amp power inlet, then no, as far as my knowledge is aware, the Earth is through the 15 Amp extension lead. Hardwiring for 240V from an inverter is another thing altogether. The inverter must be chassis earthed. But hey, a disclaimer. I came from a Google search asking about setting up a fuse box for a 15 Amp 240V inlet. I've acquired an old Bedford passenger bus that's been almost finished except for the inlet for the 240V and a few power-point covers and junctions. I trawling through pages of stuff and a few videos. I want to finish it properly.
Can you wire up a plug to run off hookup when hooked up and if not hooked up, off an inverter from the leisure battery? Or do they need to be kept completley seperate so you have one plug for when hooked up and a seperate from the inverter?
@@karemart74 You might have a charger/inverter/mppt which also acts as a UPS so you only need one socket which works under all conditions ie, battery, EHU, solar and if required will supply more power than the EHU supplies. Growatt, PowerMr, Eperver.
HI Dan, If I have a couple of sockects, 1 in the garage and 1 in the living room, can they be run from the same 16A breaker, I want to keep the other one free for my boiler. To do this would you just run a ring main like in a house?
Yes you can run them from the same breaker just be mindful of what you are running from them though. I would run 2 separate cables from the breaker though. Many thanks for watching
dantheman 321 ok, would it still be 32a breaker for sockets even though I’m only inputting 16a? Or would you recommend just one 16a circuit for 2 double sockets? Mainly phone chargers but also a fridge and kettle?
Great patient, informative and simple video. Thank you. I returned my Screwfix garage 5-way consumer unit as it only had single pole MCBs and have bought a 4-way double pole MCB unit which of course is now full with one RCD and that MCB. Have I made a mistake? Nervous to install with my limited (no) electronic knowledge. Got another isolation switch to stick one at both ends of the van.
Hi so you have a main switch and 2 MCBs, I've got a question from someone asking me if you need to have a RCBO instead of a main switch, but the supply that's for the Van's are already protected by RCBOs so could you clarify for me, maybe drop me a direct message thanks
The hookup flex from the pitch hookup point to the vertical should be a minimum of 4 mm2 blue sheath. The Earth single earth lead to the chassis should be a minimum of 10mm2 and is connected to the Earth terminal in the vans CU which should have a 80amp / 30 milliamp RCD as the main point of isolation a 6amp MCB for the lights and a 16 amp MCB for the sockets . Lights should be wired in 1.0 mm2 TW&E and the sockets wired in 2.5mm2 TW&E you are also required by law to have smoke detector hard wired on the own circuit and 6amp MCB. Your lights are 12v LEDs you will need to use a pelv LED driver which will convert the 240v mains to 12v dc .
Nice video Dan I'm doing a tiny home on a twin axel trailer with a small kitchen with microwave a fridge and freezer and lighting. Also a shower room with composting toilet And then a bedroom with sockets and lighting and was wondering what is a good consumer unit to use? Thanks.
it might be useful in these sort of videos if you put in the description which country you are in, as rules can vary, this is NOT a criticism of the video just i am in Australia and there fore am not sure if there may be some differences Once again a great video.
Ian Croasdell No it wont affect the mot at all as the conversion side of the vehicle has nothing to do with an mot accept for the seat belts. Many thanks for watching
Can you recommend a charger controller that has solar controller and 12v/mains charger all in one please? Most likely will be buying a van with a smart alternator
Darren Jones Normally i would only use a controller for the solar panel that goes straight to the batteries and then a seperate system i.e sargent system that controls everything else but i think the cbe kits might do what your wanting it to do but i wouldnt know which model you would need. I used to fit the pc200 kits from cbe which may do that but you would have to make some enquires first. Hope this helps and many thanks for watching
Patrick Parker A garage consumer unit i didnt think would be suitable for the hob your wanting to use and the feed on the caravan sites probably wouldnt cope with the power they demand. If i was you i would look at changing the hob your wanting to use. Many thanks for watching
@@patrickparker8417 you would need a cable running to the van that could cope with that load! you'd melt a standard camping flex cable (the one that runs from the van to the external power source) the plugs are not rated for that either - 60 Amps is mental - no domestic appliance runs at that high amperage. Unless you are talking about a 12v appliance. a 720w hob using 12v supply would be rated at 60amps but if you are using 240v directly to the hob this would be a 14,400watt appliance. Watts = Volts x Amps
hi, if the van has wire running to the consumer unit on the surface will this not pass a electrical test because the wire are not going in the back? also how many socket can you put on the 16 amp one
Chris C Hi Chris, i think it depends on the type of electrical test you are having done. I know from experience with type approval tests and ncc tests that the wires have to be double insulated so you would need some split conjugate to go over the wire and also you will need to make sure that the wire is firmly fixed to the wall with p clips for example. Hope this helps and many thanks for watching. As for the sockets it would depend on what you will be using the sockets for but i wouldnt go over 3 socket but 2 would be better.
@@bensearley2540 Depends on the size of battery you are using really, if you are only going for an 85amp battery then a 10 amp or 16 amp charger would do.
Thanks for this..... random question, can 12v LED lights be wires straight to 240v? We have removed 12v systems but have 3 led lights we were originally going to install. Will this work or do we need to buy domestic lights?
No 12v lights cant be connected to the 240v. You need to take your power from a leisure battery for them via a fuse and switch. If you want lights to run through the 240v consumer unit you will need 240v lights i.e domestic lights. Hope this helps and many thanks for watching
Hi i dont have any info on this particular unit as i have had it for a while but if you go to an electrical wholesalers and ask for a garage consumer unit its basically the same but probably cheaper as well. Hope this helps Many thanks for watching
Hi, thanks for the video which demystifies the consumer unit - well presented! I just bought an old caravan (Abi Award Sunstar, early 1990s model). The 240v sockets and lights are not working. The previous two owners never used the caravan so they can't help me. Hence I have a very rudimentary question: - Does the consumer unit only deal with the mains hookup? Does the consumer unit have anything to do with the inverter? Thanks in advance.
Hi the consumer unit only take its power from the hook up and distributes to sockets, lights and any other 240v appliance. The invertor takes it power from the leisure battery as it needs 12v power to work and should be a separate power supply altogether. However if a change over switch has been fitted then both the hook up and the invertor can supply power to the change over switch and then supplys power to the consumer unit allowing you to run the 240v appliance either through from the hook up or invertor. I hope this helps and if you need anymore information please don't hesitate to ask. Many thanks for watching. Dan
Somewhat intrigued by the "change over switch". The caravan has a switch that controls electricity supply from either the "car" or "caravan" (meaning the leisure battery). This in-built switch deals only with the 12v power supply presumably. So a "change over switch" between the hookup supply and inverter would be absolutely necessary. Somehow I don't see this "change over switch". Is this something to be added?
Why would you earth to the chassis? Your vehicle cant be earthed as it sits on four rubber tyre. Surely putting an earth to the chassis you are connecting to the negative side of your 12V battery terminal. Your earth for your 240V comes from the earth of your onshore supply.
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Whats the purpose of earthing the consumer unit to the van chassis. Does the earth not carry through the hook up cable and if there was a fault with the sore power earth and the van was earthed, you touched the van would you not become the earth?
Because it’s a wiring regulations requirement under BS7671.also it would be a separate earth liras from the CU to the exposed metal frame
excellent video super clear and helpful thank you
Hi, fabulous video. Very easy to follow and makes it very simple to understand how and why.
My question is this:
We are going to spend alot of time off grid, would you recommend adding a third spare, so i could have one lights, one sockets and one say fridge/microwave?
Will be the same wiring if i have a generator in the van thanks.
Hi there, I have a small ?, after u attach the mains earth wire to the bus bar, do u then run an earth wire from bus bar to chassis? Thanks heaps, oh and your tutorial is the first I've understood so thank you very much 😊
Hi sorry for the late reply, yes run it straight to the chassis 👍 Many thanks for watching and I hope this has been of some help for you 👍
Well explained... simple👍🏼.. Bolton accent??
Could I connect a 5amp charger into that 6amp fuse so when I hook up my charger charges the liesure battery,instead of plugging it in a socket just chop the plug off
😳
Nice video but would have been nice to see you actually wire it up just so you get a visual representation
Yes I’ve no idea and I watched it twice. Not sure if top and bottom need to be wired on RCB or if I just copy what he did on top onto the bottom. Maybe you can use either end? Don’t know what bar is on top. Does it need to be put on bottom if using bottom ports. I’m more confused after watching this 😅
Are they 2 pole circuit breakers mate
Very informative
You should keep the 6A MCB for lighting and change the 16A to 30A if you need more power for sockets. But remember that most campsites are limited to 16A or even 10A per hookup. So 16A+6A is all you need.
you are limited by the rating on you external cable to the 240v supply and the fuse on the ring/ socket/ campsite hookup - so I can't see why you can have more than 16amp in total for all the fuses - unless I'm being thick
Hi Dan - great series of videos, My question is why do you need to add an earth connection to the structure of the van when the external hook-up you are connecting comes with an earth connection, surely it is best to keep the mains wiring totally separate from the van which is connected via the chassis to the (12V) van electrics.
Nick Wood
Its a good point but its something you have to do to be on the safe side. A vehicle wouldnt pass a type approval test without one and also if you have run gas pipe in your vehicle that has to be earth bonded as well. I worked for a place that was ncc approved a few years ago and with there conversions they had to be earthed to the vehicle with a specific sized cable as well. Whatever you do dont miss it out but a little tip for you dont earth it underneath the vehicle as it will rust over time and become useless so earth it inside where its accessible if possible.
Many thanks for watching
@@dantheman321 Thanks for that information, Dan. In my uneducated opinion, I assumed a 15Amp 240V inlet was where Earth came from, with the fuse box dealing with load independently.
Because it’s a wiring regulations requirement under BS7671.also it would be a separate earth liras from the CU to the exposed metal frame
Excellent in formation . Learnt a lot .Thank you
Hi, thanks for the great video. When I come to wire my 240 sockets to this, do you just run from that mcb to the first socket, then to the second and so on. Or does it need to be on a ring? I'm thinking 4/5 sockets for a kettle / microwave and some phone chargers. How does one wire up the sockets to the mcb? Hopefully this question makes sense
Hi. Does the unit now need to compky with 17th edition ammendment 3. I.e metal housing? I cant find any info specific for motorhomes.
Yes it must comply with BS7671 as well as any relevant regulations relating to caravan and camper van or mobile homes.
Can i use 1.5mm arctic blue for line in only gonna have 6 sockets and 1 light might be using 1.5kw hob aswel
Hi Dan confused y earth when the van is on rubber wheels
My basic electrical knowledge (enough to get me in trouble) is that if this set-up is for an external 15 Amp power inlet, then no, as far as my knowledge is aware, the Earth is through the 15 Amp extension lead. Hardwiring for 240V from an inverter is another thing altogether. The inverter must be chassis earthed. But hey, a disclaimer. I came from a Google search asking about setting up a fuse box for a 15 Amp 240V inlet. I've acquired an old Bedford passenger bus that's been almost finished except for the inlet for the 240V and a few power-point covers and junctions. I trawling through pages of stuff and a few videos. I want to finish it properly.
Can you wire up a plug to run off hookup when hooked up and if not hooked up, off an inverter from the leisure battery? Or do they need to be kept completley seperate so you have one plug for when hooked up and a seperate from the inverter?
rorie roberts you will need a priority switch. Check out the NPS priority switch. Hope that helps.
@@karemart74 You might have a charger/inverter/mppt which also acts as a UPS so you only need one socket which works under all conditions ie, battery, EHU, solar and if required will supply more power than the EHU supplies. Growatt, PowerMr, Eperver.
HI Dan, If I have a couple of sockects, 1 in the garage and 1 in the living room, can they be run from the same 16A breaker, I want to keep the other one free for my boiler. To do this would you just run a ring main like in a house?
Yes you can run them from the same breaker just be mindful of what you are running from them though. I would run 2 separate cables from the breaker though.
Many thanks for watching
@@dantheman321 cool so just wire 2 cables into the same breaker directly? Love your videos btw!
Would this be the same for a trailer tent with 16a hookup?
Haven't done one for a trailer tent but I would think so.
Many thanks for watching
dantheman 321 ok, would it still be 32a breaker for sockets even though I’m only inputting 16a? Or would you recommend just one 16a circuit for 2 double sockets? Mainly phone chargers but also a fridge and kettle?
@@danielscott63 16amp if your only input is 16amp, chargers and fridges won't draw much.
Many thanks for watching
Hi, Would i need to earth the cu itself i.e an earth wire from the earth bar to the van body
Thanks
Yes you will need to do that.
Many thanks for watching
Nice one
Great patient, informative and simple video. Thank you.
I returned my Screwfix garage 5-way consumer unit as it only had single pole MCBs and have bought a 4-way double pole MCB unit which of course is now full with one RCD and that MCB. Have I made a mistake?
Nervous to install with my limited (no) electronic knowledge. Got another isolation switch to stick one at both ends of the van.
Hi so you have a main switch and 2 MCBs, I've got a question from someone asking me if you need to have a RCBO instead of a main switch, but the supply that's for the Van's are already protected by RCBOs so could you clarify for me, maybe drop me a direct message thanks
very well presented and explained, tks again
CORRIGEEN71
no problem if you need anymore information just let me know.
many thanks
The hookup flex from the pitch hookup point to the vertical should be a minimum of 4 mm2 blue sheath. The Earth single earth lead to the chassis should be a minimum of 10mm2 and is connected to the Earth terminal in the vans CU which should have a 80amp / 30 milliamp RCD as the main point of isolation a 6amp MCB for the lights and a 16 amp MCB for the sockets . Lights should be wired in 1.0 mm2 TW&E and the sockets wired in 2.5mm2 TW&E you are also required by law to have smoke detector hard wired on the own circuit and 6amp MCB. Your lights are 12v LEDs you will need to use a pelv LED driver which will convert the 240v mains to 12v dc .
Nice video Dan
I'm doing a tiny home on a twin axel trailer with a small kitchen with microwave a fridge and freezer and lighting.
Also a shower room with composting toilet
And then a bedroom with sockets and lighting and was wondering what is a good consumer unit to use?
Thanks.
bobby kirkwood
Hi bobby maybe better using a garage consumer unit with a 3rd breaker to be on the safe side.
Many thanks for watching
This is tiny, where is this purchased from
it might be useful in these sort of videos if you put in the description which country you are in, as rules can vary, this is NOT a criticism of the video just i am in Australia and there fore am not sure if there may be some differences
Once again a great video.
Will it affect an mot if you converted a van ie would you need a certificate for to pass?
Ian Croasdell
No it wont affect the mot at all as the conversion side of the vehicle has nothing to do with an mot accept for the seat belts.
Many thanks for watching
Can you recommend a charger controller that has solar controller and 12v/mains charger all in one please? Most likely will be buying a van with a smart alternator
Darren Jones
Normally i would only use a controller for the solar panel that goes straight to the batteries and then a seperate system i.e sargent system that controls everything else but i think the cbe kits might do what your wanting it to do but i wouldnt know which model you would need. I used to fit the pc200 kits from cbe which may do that but you would have to make some enquires first. Hope this helps and many thanks for watching
Should a hob be wired up to a sixty amp main fuse box ?
Patrick Parker
A household hob should yes but caravan or motorhome hobs models are different.
Many thanks for watching
I have to add the sixty amp fuse is between the main feed and meter , anyway thank you for your response and hoping your Christmas is going well .
Patrick Parker
A garage consumer unit i didnt think would be suitable for the hob your wanting to use and the feed on the caravan sites probably wouldnt cope with the power they demand. If i was you i would look at changing the hob your wanting to use.
Many thanks for watching
@@patrickparker8417 you would need a cable running to the van that could cope with that load! you'd melt a standard camping flex cable (the one that runs from the van to the external power source) the plugs are not rated for that either - 60 Amps is mental - no domestic appliance runs at that high amperage. Unless you are talking about a 12v appliance. a 720w hob using 12v supply would be rated at 60amps but if you are using 240v directly to the hob this would be a 14,400watt appliance. Watts = Volts x Amps
Hi Dan, this may be a stupid question but is there no need for a neutral bar as well ?
hi, if the van has wire running to the consumer unit on the surface will this not pass a electrical test because the wire are not going in the back? also how many socket can you put on the 16 amp one
Chris C
Hi Chris, i think it depends on the type of electrical test you are having done. I know from experience with type approval tests and ncc tests that the wires have to be double insulated so you would need some split conjugate to go over the wire and also you will need to make sure that the wire is firmly fixed to the wall with p clips for example. Hope this helps and many thanks for watching.
As for the sockets it would depend on what you will be using the sockets for but i wouldnt go over 3 socket but 2 would be better.
thanks great video
Do you have a wiring diagram or video on the wiring of an electric 240v hook up within the van please?
Kadavey68
hi do you mean the 240v hook up that goes on the outside of the van that you plug into from the mains?
many thanks
dantheman 321 Yes sorry.
if i get chance over the weekend i will make a video for you
Many thanks
dantheman 321 fantastic thank you
Should I wire my charger into this as well?
Yes but what amp is your charger ?
dantheman 321 don’t have one yet just wondering would this then charge my battery from the campsite hook up
@@bensearley2540 yes it would, if you get stuck don't hesitate to ask.
Many thanks for watching
What amp charger am I looking for ?
@@bensearley2540
Depends on the size of battery you are using really, if you are only going for an 85amp battery then a 10 amp or 16 amp charger would do.
Thanks for this..... random question, can 12v LED lights be wires straight to 240v? We have removed 12v systems but have 3 led lights we were originally going to install. Will this work or do we need to buy domestic lights?
No 12v lights cant be connected to the 240v. You need to take your power from a leisure battery for them via a fuse and switch. If you want lights to run through the 240v consumer unit you will need 240v lights i.e domestic lights.
Hope this helps and many thanks for watching
@@dantheman321yes you can you will need to use a pelv LED driver with allows 240 in and give 12vdc out
Really helpful, thanks. 👍
Hi brilliant video what make is the unit
Hi where can i buy one of the units, or do you have make /model no etc thanks
Hi i dont have any info on this particular unit as i have had it for a while but if you go to an electrical wholesalers and ask for a garage consumer unit its basically the same but probably cheaper as well.
Hope this helps
Many thanks for watching
Thanks for the reply , will do
Hi Mate,
very useful! Where did you get this consumer unit? I can seem to find a good sized one like this with dual pole!
Jack
This video was done a couple of years ago now but there are plenty on ebay.
Many thanks for watching
Hi, thanks for the video which demystifies the consumer unit - well presented!
I just bought an old caravan (Abi Award Sunstar, early 1990s model). The 240v sockets and lights are not working. The previous two owners never used the caravan so they can't help me. Hence I have a very rudimentary question:
- Does the consumer unit only deal with the mains hookup? Does the consumer unit have anything to do with the inverter?
Thanks in advance.
Hi the consumer unit only take its power from the hook up and distributes to sockets, lights and any other 240v appliance. The invertor takes it power from the leisure battery as it needs 12v power to work and should be a separate power supply altogether. However if a change over switch has been fitted then both the hook up and the invertor can supply power to the change over switch and then supplys power to the consumer unit allowing you to run the 240v appliance either through from the hook up or invertor. I hope this helps and if you need anymore information please don't hesitate to ask.
Many thanks for watching.
Dan
Somewhat intrigued by the "change over switch". The caravan has a switch that controls electricity supply from either the "car" or "caravan" (meaning the leisure battery). This in-built switch deals only with the 12v power supply presumably. So a "change over switch" between the hookup supply and inverter would be absolutely necessary. Somehow I don't see this "change over switch". Is this something to be added?
AG Yu
Yes you can purchase them for around £35 on ebay and they are very easy to fit.
Why would you earth to the chassis? Your vehicle cant be earthed as it sits on four rubber tyre. Surely putting an earth to the chassis you are connecting to the negative side of your 12V battery terminal. Your earth for your 240V comes from the earth of your onshore supply.
Just a slight niggle - it's Line and Neutral, not Live and Negative.
He is speaking English :) we have different terminology here
really hard to understand what you are tlaking about
7ue