So much information shared about engine/gearbox/prop shaft alignment. For Dame, even when aligned, it's still not perfectly aligned. Almost there. Jobs within jobs. Boat life. Amazing the difference when the engine bay is cleaned out and fully repainted.
I am always uplifted and inspired by how determined you are and how hard you all work. Even more inspiring are the relationships you share with each other. I'm sure it can't be easy with all the stresses involved. Thank you for being a shining beacon of humanity!
Daminan, it is great to see you working so har to get the things in alignment. What I have learned from a long life as an engineer is, that no two shafts can be in alignment when separate parts are assembled. So always use a coupling that compensates for the malalignment. The coupling also prevents shockwaves and bendingforces from the main axle from ending into and harming the gearbox.
Nine ...9 years .... wow and outstanding ! 59.2 K Subscribers .... you deserve al least 100K, your content is good and the sense of humour and enthusiastic never say die attitude you display is inspiring and entertaining. Looking forward to the boat going in the water.
You've come a long way Damien and the boat is looking great, and your not too far away from a launch either. Looking forward to that day. To see the smile on your face from all the hard work you've all done.
Great dial in. Most people would be accepting once within 0.05 mm. But your so right, it's your baby brupeg & a good dial in & machining will set its mood. There has to be a lauch day. As always the ocean is another story safe use of power equipment. Probably some procedural info needs writing up from mechanical to electrical for crew & those things that we all forget.
I’ve literally been watching paint dry…………..and I absolutely love it fair play to yee painting on yeer bellies guys and 9 years of hardwork and dedication,progress and entertainment along the way hats off to yee and thanks 👊😀👍
It is a shame when other's work is not up to standard. Install your corrected adapter and torque all the bolts THEN check for runout. If all is good THEN do your alignment. Take this time to scrape the outside edge of the shaft flange clean. You can use 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 for the co-axial alignment if all 3 numbers match.
That chart you showed at 45:23 shows measurements in mils (thousandths or an inch), not mm. So your tolerance of 0.1 mm or less is 3.0 mils which is good for 900 RPM.
Thanks Craig. Feel like we are getting there. Got the adapter remachines and took out 12thou of run out! Might actually be able to get the numbers to work now
Something to keep in mind Damion, painted surfaces do not work well together. In tine those surfaces if bolted together will loosen up in a short amount of time. Hope this advice will help you guys.
Completely agree , whenever I’m building mounts they get a light dusting of zinc primer then the mating surfaces and also where the heads of bolts go get masked up so the rest of mount can be painted.
BTW, regarding torquing: Learned from a car mechanic that the reason they torque to "tight" (ca 90Nm) and then do a fixed number of degrees is because it proved to be more accurate when you have high torque specs (for example head or flywheel bolts). Which made me a bit sad because I had hoarded an old beefy torque wrench /(because it'd come in handy one day), and when I finally thought I'd be able to use it, the spec's just wanted a specific number of degrees instead of an insanely oversized torque wrench :P
Make sure you do the final adjustment after you put it in the water. That is where it is going to sit for the most part of its life. On the hard the boat might have hogged a bit and with all the cutting and welding putting unknown stresses on the hull. to make it easier, clock 3 and 9 then set 12 to what 3&9 are. The chart you were referring to is imperial. It looked like there was some crap imbedded on the faces of the gearbox coupling and the adapter plate. It is a lot of playing around to get it %100 but it is well worth it for piece of mind when a thousand miles from nowhere.
You prob have finished this but maybe this might help if you haven’t. Always adjust height of engine and GB first then as you make sideways adjustment this will not effect the height. You only need 180 deg rotation of dial gauge 3 points 90 deg apart is all you need. Get engine position first then push shaft back to it. Don’t pour chock fast till it’s in the water. You will need sole plates unde engine mount feet. Has anyone done chock fast calculations for this installation. I am only 500m away if you want me to come and chat about it.
As a machinist I was always conscious of runout. If a lathe guy doesnt pay attention to runout it can make the mill guys job a nightmare. Since I did both the lathe work and the mill work I was really conscious of runout. Even if the part didnt have to be true to function I still made a point of making everything as perfect as could possibly get it.
Your trust in the gearbox was sweet, but damn I was holding my breath when you started turning the gearbox shaft by hand… until you knew it was perfect! So relieved it’s just the adapter plate! Hugs all round!
Making faces parallel on a lathe is actually pretty simple. Having a test indicator rather than a dial indicator is the key especially when you have a through hole in the center of the part. If it doesnt have a through hole you can make one,or you can bore out some soft jaws and you can easily hold .001 surface parallel. But yeah a surface grinder would be the easiest way to go.
It’s relatively easy to get faces parallel on lathes because that geometry relies on the accuracy of the lathe and it’s related wear factors. What’s not as easy is concentricity of various cylindrical components if repositioning is required between setups.
@@davidhtims Even a clapped out lathe will give you parallel faces with a fresh set of bored soft jaws. Concentricity is easy if you have a Buck Chuck but those are far from cheap. And again using a set of freshly cut soft jaws really help. You can also wack the master jaws with a brass hammer to get parts to line up on an old chuck that has a worn out scroll and master jaws.
I think you should pull the prop shaft back 3mm or so, depending on the adapter plate spigot length, to keep them apart still for checking runout. Measure exactly how far the prop needs to come forward and use feeler gauges with a shim to set that distance between the coupling faces, then adjust your angle and runout with feeler gauges and dial indicator. Slide prop shaft forward and you should be finished. If you set them up apart with the prop in final position, as you bring motor/gearbox back, the height will change and you’ll have to do it all over again.
I’m really glad to see Dame taking the time to get the engine / gearbox and the prop shaft aligned perfectly. After everything is aligned perfectly, and the mount compound is poured, How long does it need to for complete cure, and will there be any compression over time of the compound?
It must be some amazing stuff! I’m old, back when dirt was new, we aligned engines with steel shims. The really thin ones, 18 gauge, would rust out about every couple of years. I really enjoy watching y’all learn as you go. So with the oil tank, is it for when the engine oil is changed, so multiple oil dumps can be stored before pumping out? Or is it like an oil cooler for the engine? Bet ya never thought Brupeg would have such an absolutely awesome drive system! ⚓😎
I’m no expert with this stuff. But the engine, gear box and the work you showed us looks the business. Love your work. Please don’t be bashful about a second go fund me if you get stuck. People will support you or they will not. But the process you have made with the funds you were given has changed the project. You project is not for six weeks, I hope it is for six years or longer. I was tentatively in my first giving. Now I realise I should have trusted you more. Keep up the good work.
Thank you so much for your faith in us. And thank you for your donation for the engine and gearbox. Can’t wait to get them bolted down, it feels so close now
As a professional machinist, i concur with being onto it to the n'th degree, that flange could've done alot of damage at different points in time to components that have varying failure points (seals, bearings, fasteners, etc.). Thanks for sharing, Cheers from the Pine Tree State, Joel
Thought. Instead of messing up the paint work adding two "push" gearbox alignment fittings, can you just build two "pull" gizmos, that can hook over a convenient edge, or only require small non strategic welds away from the mounting surfaces.
Hi both, been a while since I’ve seen in touch. As usual I float back to the surface. Suggestion, why not use a shim that can absorb the vibrations? All the best both.
I have never done this before but understand what you are aiming at and can see a few variables at play. Particularly after reading through the comments. I think that guys who are hitting the sweet spot you are after are probably masters in some sort of clock-guage dark arts thingy. They may be worth the $$ they earn and thus save for owners... Nice vid again, thanks Jess. The non welding fratenity will be stoked :)
@36:35 Why don't you put the gauge base on the propshaft that isn't moving measuring the engine shaft? Would it achieve the same thing and tell you run out and make it easier to read - less issues with space? I'm not a sailor - zero experience - just armchair interested in method :) Enjoy watching your content. Cheers.
I assume he is going to grout it, he explicitly said he is going to grout the transmission mounts, e.g. @44:30 "I want to get my dam in for the Chock Fast", I'd think he do the front mount too, the end of the one screw in the center is providing minimal bearing surface for long term operation, fine for static alignment but not so much for a running diesel engine bouncing through heavy seas.
47:34 - Regarding the pivot point for the alignment being "too far" forward, is it possible to swap the transmission mounts port->starboard and starboard->port and move the pivot point backwards that way? Not sure if everything would line up, but if so, that would shift the points back from where they are now.
Lots of hoops to jump through, getting it aligned. There must be a really good reason why you won't put a flexible / compliant joint in between the gearbox and the shaft. I'm sure it's been mentioned in a previous episode, but i forgot. Was it the required torque spec, or the available space to put it?
Question is the bolt holes in flange and thread bolt holes are probably off by more than what you are trying to get. Get It close and get the boat in the water
Are you going to fit a vibration meter so you can monitor your awesome work? You know. sipping your morning coffee with the overlay on the big screen wondering what sort of vibes the surrounding vessels are contaminating you with.
Does your alignment take into account any thermal expansion of the engine and gearbox - or can the shaft just be pushed and pulled that small amount without problems?
No account taken for heat as the temps remain low. Our stern tube is oil cooled to the temp of seawater. But if expansion does happen the shaft can just move backwards a few thou
What about thermal expansion of the shaft line ? Wondering if it is significant. Maybe necessary to offset in the cold state so that it becomes aligned in the hot state. You would need to know what the vertical growth is expected to be.
The shaft is axially constrained by the gear box, the only "alignment" shaft expansion would affect would be the sand seal. That might be why he compressed the O-ring by 3mm? But I'd expect the shaft tube and shaft to be at a similar temperature, the shaft might be a little hotter, but I bet it not a huge amount more.
A damper bush/donut ,is something like that suitable to use on the driveline?most vehicle drivelines have one or two ,maybe not having insulated mounts is giving you some extra stress in the alignment .
Normally on commercial boats they don’t rubber mount. Solid is the standard method. That said it’s possible to do but costs around 10k for us to go that way
I am glad you are doing the alignment to this degree of accuracy (I would have done the same) , check if the grub screw on the prop shaft flange is good and can hold hard reverse thrust, should you need to power away from rocks you wouldn't dream of the shaft slipping out when you need it most. I love your level of patience and accuracy y-all. I wish you many years of good voyages and good health .
? Q how do you know that the flang on the prop is a perfect circle any off-set will throw out any measurements taken...should the surface be paint free ? A brilliant show ..
Yes the surface needs to be paint free to get an accurate reading. The outer diameter of the prop coupling will have been machined true when it was made it’s it’s practically impossible for it to go oval after that process. So yes it’s possible but unlikely to be out of round
check propshaft coupling run out before reassembly this will throw out alingnment also as to properly face align couplings you need to measure the same point on each coupling as you rotate both together
Does the gearbox manufacturer manual give you thermal expansion figures to take into account when doing the gearbox alignment? Spent many years "misaligning" things so when up to temperature the are in alignment. I like the effort your putting in to getting it right. Been there where something out of your control is causing a bad alignment. Really frustrating.
Damian this might help .. im a fitter and turner get this in your head 1000 divided by 25.4 mm = 39.37 so 1 mm = 0.0394 thou mate just remember this instead 1mm = 40 thou this makes shifting the decimal point easy so 1/10 of a mm = 0.004 thou [4 thou ] make 1/100 mm =0.0004 thou or less than 1/2 thou so each mark on that metric dial is less than 1/2 thou … its funny I’ve asked young engineers how many thou in a inch there basic come back I only know metric come on I edge them im basically telling you the answer … haha buddy I’ve found digital verniers these day good enough for most turning work we didnt have digital ones when I did my apprenticeship but if you buy a good pair say mitoyo brand $300 there great for 1/2 thou even that accuracy you moving into realms of surface grinders and temp controlled environments Ive used 1mm =40 though all my turning life and never came unstuck some old machines lathes are only imp scaled I’ve just held my mouth the right way approaching the 40 thou good enough turning metric on a imp lathe … ask a young engineer how many tho in a inch you be dumbfounded how many can’t answer that easy question the normal answer is I only know metric hahaha ..
Ps an average hair on your head is 4 thou some ppl thinner by 1 some ppl thicker by 1 Ive never measured a bees dick but hell a bees dick must be accurate all old machinists use that measurement hahahaha you can see a fly shit on paper so out a fly shit is sometimes not good enough ..
1mm =40 also makes drill selection easy too 1/2 inch =500 thou 1/4 inch = 250 thou 1/8 = 125thou 1/16 =0.0625 thou 1/32 =0.03125 thou 1/64 = 0.0155 [close enough ] im sure you see the pattern I’ve done the young guys are amazed I can pick up a imperial drill and quickly in my head tell them to 1/2 mm accuracy what that imperial drill is … give me a 3/4 drill at a hardware store sorry I haven’t got a 3/4 ok give me a 19 mm close enough hahaha 19 x 40 = 760 ,,, my 40 is slightly big hey 19 x 3937 = 0.748 how much closer than a fly shit must one be ..you be pulling your imperial drill set out looking for that 10.25 tapping drill before you know it …. This is what I do. In my head ok im looking for a 10.25 mm drill 10.25 x40 is 410 thou I know this is already a fly shit big in my conversion .375 is 3/8th too small but if I add 1/32 to 3/8th .375 +.031 = .406 so a 10.25 drill for tapping now becomes imp drill 13/32 or you could even go up a 1/64 and still be ballpark 27/64th …. Please pass this onto the young ones explain the hair on your head is 4 thou 1mm = 40 thou just a fly shit big 1000thou in a inch 1 inch 1/2 inch =500 1/4 =250 1/8th =125 and so forth engineering and its conversions and tolerances made easy … of course the easiest converter for metric to imp and spot on is your digital verniers dial the number lock them off and push the button the fractional size is as previously explained bit of practice you do it all in your head and amaze your friends ..
Shame there's no room what so ever for a yoke between the prop shaft and reduction gears. Other way to align shafts is to remove or slide the prop flang back so you have that messurement shaft to shaft. 🤔🤔Flanges will never align. Take a secondary messurerment off the bildge brackets and ceiling to realinge the shafts. Once the prop flange is reinstalled. An over head cross lazer is a big help narrowing engine gear box and prop alignment.👉👉We do the same for pump to electric motor alignments in the U.S. Navy. Another trick for tight spaces install a flex coupling between the prop and gear box. To make up the difference and done.
Yeah we are really sorry about that, we wish we could go much faster but we are grateful and lucky to have so much amazing support, and we are looking forward to what this project can create in the future for everyone. Doing this on a shoestring budget and working as hard as we can is a slow process and we can’t wait to be launched because our costs will go right down and we will be able to do more for the community. Thanks for your feedback, hope your having a nice day. Jess
@@ProjectBrupeg Ahh thanks! Its great then you are going to the effort of getting that flange aligned perfectly then. And also explains why no flexible coupling, no flexible coupling would ever handle that thrust force along its axis. So all the force of the prop is going through those big white gearbox brackets you guys and gals made? No wonder you made them so incredibly solid. I cant imagine what kind of thrust that prop makes, and all that thrust going through those plates must be insane. The compound you will be using to hold it all steady once aligned (chock fast) that stuff is ok with that force? (not questioning your judgement, i honestly just have no idea, im a programmer haha)
Yes it’s used on ocean liners etc so it’s properties are pretty well known. As for thrust. The engine produces 1080lb/ft of torque and the gearbox is a 4:1 reduction so torque at the prop is around 4,300lb/ft
@@ProjectBrupeg Thats insane. Always keen when a new brupeg video pops up. Kinda of jealous to be honest. Would love to work on it! Btw, is it a ship or a boat? or a vessel?
Normally on commercial boats they don’t rubber mount. Solid is the standard method. That said it’s possible to do but costs around 10k for us to go that way
Another champion episode, so admire your grit and determination to do things right, thank you team 👏👏
So much information shared about engine/gearbox/prop shaft alignment. For Dame, even when aligned, it's still not perfectly aligned. Almost there. Jobs within jobs. Boat life. Amazing the difference when the engine bay is cleaned out and fully repainted.
Thank you for taking the time to show the details for proper alignment in the engine room. I find this fascinating. Cheers.
I am always uplifted and inspired by how determined you are and how hard you all work. Even more inspiring are the relationships you share with each other. I'm sure it can't be easy with all the stresses involved. Thank you for being a shining beacon of humanity!
What a pleasure to see your progression, Well done to all of you.
Daminan, it is great to see you working so har to get the things in alignment. What I have learned from a long life as an engineer is, that no two shafts can be in alignment when separate parts are assembled. So always use a coupling that compensates for the malalignment. The coupling also prevents shockwaves and bendingforces from the main axle from ending into and harming the gearbox.
Comment about Jason being tired - your resilience never ceases to amaze me. Kia Kaha whanau.
Nine ...9 years .... wow and outstanding ! 59.2 K Subscribers .... you deserve al least 100K, your content is good and the sense of humour and enthusiastic never say die attitude you display is inspiring and entertaining. Looking forward to the boat going in the water.
You've come a long way Damien and the boat is looking great, and your not too far away from a launch either. Looking forward to that day. To see the smile on your face from all the hard work you've all done.
Great dial in. Most people would be accepting once within 0.05 mm. But your so right, it's your baby brupeg & a good dial in & machining will set its mood.
There has to be a lauch day. As always the ocean is another story safe use of power equipment. Probably some procedural info needs writing up from mechanical to electrical for crew & those things that we all forget.
Absolutely
I love that "All Millimeters Shifter" on the bung tap.
I’ve literally been watching paint dry…………..and I absolutely love it fair play to yee painting on yeer bellies guys and 9 years of hardwork and dedication,progress and entertainment along the way hats off to yee and thanks 👊😀👍
Thanks so much Tommy
It is a shame when other's work is not up to standard. Install your corrected adapter and torque all the bolts THEN check for runout. If all is good THEN do your alignment. Take this time to scrape the outside edge of the shaft flange clean. You can use 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 for the co-axial alignment if all 3 numbers match.
That chart you showed at 45:23 shows measurements in mils (thousandths or an inch), not mm. So your tolerance of 0.1 mm or less is 3.0 mils which is good for 900 RPM.
G'day Crew...
Alignments hard by the yard ,
but by the inch it's a sinch .
Nice job Damo, almost there now.
Respect....!
Thanks Craig. Feel like we are getting there. Got the adapter remachines and took out 12thou of run out! Might actually be able to get the numbers to work now
1Starts at 20lps!! must have BIG nuts to get tightened ☺
Great update 2x👍
Probably the only job on a boat that gives me ptsd every time. But when you get it right and its not shaking the welds apart its a good feeling.
Something to keep in mind Damion, painted surfaces do not work well together. In tine those surfaces if bolted together will loosen up in a short amount of time. Hope this advice will help you guys.
Completely agree , whenever I’m building mounts they get a light dusting of zinc primer then the mating surfaces and also where the heads of bolts go get masked up so the rest of mount can be painted.
BTW, regarding torquing: Learned from a car mechanic that the reason they torque to "tight" (ca 90Nm) and then do a fixed number of degrees is because it proved to be more accurate when you have high torque specs (for example head or flywheel bolts).
Which made me a bit sad because I had hoarded an old beefy torque wrench /(because it'd come in handy one day), and when I finally thought I'd be able to use it, the spec's just wanted a specific number of degrees instead of an insanely oversized torque wrench :P
ca = approximately (circa)
Make sure you do the final adjustment after you put it in the water. That is where it is going to sit for the most part of its life. On the hard the boat might have hogged a bit and with all the cutting and welding putting unknown stresses on the hull. to make it easier, clock 3 and 9 then set 12 to what 3&9 are. The chart you were referring to is imperial. It looked like there was some crap imbedded on the faces of the gearbox coupling and the adapter plate. It is a lot of playing around to get it %100 but it is well worth it for piece of mind when a thousand miles from nowhere.
I'm here with you from the beginning, what an achievement! Congratulations, can't wait seeing you afloat.
Love watching your logic and brain process...Keep going....
I love the sound of clicky-click-click (the torque wrench). Progress mates. Love when the Project BruPeg notification sounds. Cheers to the crew.
Amazing progress.. Can't wait to see the culminating of all the effort on launch day!!
well hope the adapter gets sorted without much grief nice to get the engine checked off the old to do list stay safe all
You prob have finished this but maybe this might help if you haven’t. Always adjust height of engine and GB first then as you make sideways adjustment this will not effect the height. You only need 180 deg rotation of dial gauge 3 points 90 deg apart is all you need. Get engine position first then push shaft back to it. Don’t pour chock fast till it’s in the water. You will need sole plates unde engine mount feet. Has anyone done chock fast calculations for this installation. I am only 500m away if you want me to come and chat about it.
So close !, to get a 100% alignment its worth waiting a week or so, great job
As a machinist I was always conscious of runout.
If a lathe guy doesnt pay attention to runout it can make the mill guys job a nightmare.
Since I did both the lathe work and the mill work I was really conscious of runout.
Even if the part didnt have to be true to function I still made a point of making everything as perfect as could possibly get it.
Sign of a good machinist to make it perfect regardless of the part.
@@ProjectBrupeg
Yeah.....I've been accused of being anal retentive on more than one occasion.
Nice work 👍
Looks so good to see the engine and transmission sitting where they belong. Glad you found the source of the misalignment.
Great work! … And… Good on You Guys for mentioning Henk-Jan
Your trust in the gearbox was sweet, but damn I was holding my breath when you started turning the gearbox shaft by hand… until you knew it was perfect! So relieved it’s just the adapter plate! Hugs all round!
Making faces parallel on a lathe is actually pretty simple.
Having a test indicator rather than a dial indicator is the key especially when you have a through hole in the center of the part. If it doesnt have a through hole you can make one,or you can bore out some soft jaws and you can easily hold .001 surface parallel.
But yeah a surface grinder would be the easiest way to go.
It’s relatively easy to get faces parallel on lathes because that geometry relies on the accuracy of the lathe and it’s related wear factors. What’s not as easy is concentricity of various cylindrical components if repositioning is required between setups.
@@davidhtims
Even a clapped out lathe will give you parallel faces with a fresh set of bored soft jaws.
Concentricity is easy if you have a Buck Chuck but those are far from cheap.
And again using a set of freshly cut soft jaws really help.
You can also wack the master jaws with a brass hammer to get parts to line up on an old chuck that has a worn out scroll and master jaws.
How 56 mins can fit into what seems like 15 mins (with minimal cat) is amazing. Usually only cat vids with
I went to one tenth of a mm and she seems nice and smooth but your going to be perfect, very nice.
Thats good to know, thanks for that info
One small step for
Brupeg ,
One massive step for Dam
Looking good guys!
Ahh… my morning fix, thank you!
It’s a lot of work now, but we’ll worth it in the long term.
I think you should pull the prop shaft back 3mm or so, depending on the adapter plate spigot length, to keep them apart still for checking runout. Measure exactly how far the prop needs to come forward and use feeler gauges with a shim to set that distance between the coupling faces, then adjust your angle and runout with feeler gauges and dial indicator. Slide prop shaft forward and you should be finished. If you set them up apart with the prop in final position, as you bring motor/gearbox back, the height will change and you’ll have to do it all over again.
Here you guys have for a beer or 2!
Thank you so much!
Wicked episode. Two steps forward, 1 back.
I’m really glad to see Dame taking the time to get the engine / gearbox and the prop shaft aligned perfectly. After everything is aligned perfectly, and the mount compound is poured,
How long does it need to for complete cure, and will there be any compression over time of the compound?
Thanks Bart. Around 18hrs for full cure and zero compression
It must be some amazing stuff!
I’m old, back when dirt was new, we aligned engines with steel shims. The really thin ones, 18 gauge, would rust out about every couple of years.
I really enjoy watching y’all learn as you go. So with the oil tank, is it for when the engine oil is changed, so multiple oil dumps can be stored before pumping out? Or is it like an oil cooler for the engine?
Bet ya never thought Brupeg would have such an absolutely awesome drive system! ⚓😎
Fantastic
Cats do love a cardboard box!
Until you try to build something for the cat out of them... Then they don't want anything to do with them
Props on spending time to allign with your biggest fan!
We are a boat that’s powered by our fans
You guys are brilliant. 🇨🇦
Thanks Bill
I’m no expert with this stuff. But the engine, gear box and the work you showed us looks the business. Love your work. Please don’t be bashful about a second go fund me if you get stuck. People will support you or they will not. But the process you have made with the funds you were given has changed the project. You project is not for six weeks, I hope it is for six years or longer. I was tentatively in my first giving. Now I realise I should have trusted you more. Keep up the good work.
Thank you so much for your faith in us. And thank you for your donation for the engine and gearbox. Can’t wait to get them bolted down, it feels so close now
Amazing progress! Love love love to see Jess using the helmet ❤Cheers from Southern California USA
Love watching you guys it’s great learning how to do the stuff you do
I’ve been watching the resto from the start Brupeg has come along way from what she was after sinking.
Well done champ - once that adaptor is trued up all should be well - Kind Regards
you guys are amazing!!!!!
Yes, Henk-Jan. the odds of both oil heat exchangers essentially crapping out at the same time
As a professional machinist, i concur with being onto it to the n'th degree, that flange could've done alot of damage at different points in time to components that have varying failure points (seals, bearings, fasteners, etc.). Thanks for sharing, Cheers from the Pine Tree State, Joel
That’s a real engineers woodsaw..
At last a cracking episode well done all
Wow! You guys really flogged engine alignment, too bad you didn’t get it finished.
Yip, sometimes that happens when everytime you spin the gearbox to measure it the numbers change because a part wasn’t machined correctly.
Good job all.
Thought. Instead of messing up the paint work adding two "push" gearbox alignment fittings, can you just build two "pull" gizmos, that can hook over a convenient edge, or only require small non strategic welds away from the mounting surfaces.
Now that I've seen your bilges, your dinghy and you cleaning your bung out I think I know you much better now. :)
Never seen such a complicated way of line a box to a shaft. And I have done 100s over the years
Advice is welcome
Curtis @ Cutting Edge Engineering is not a million miles from you and it would make a great TH-cam collaboration!!
Actually reached out to him a while back and he ignored us. So we’ll just carry on and get the job done
Hi both, been a while since I’ve seen in touch. As usual I float back to the surface. Suggestion, why not use a shim that can absorb the vibrations? All the best both.
I have never done this before but understand what you are aiming at and can see a few variables at play. Particularly after reading through the comments. I think that guys who are hitting the sweet spot you are after are probably masters in some sort of clock-guage dark arts thingy. They may be worth the $$ they earn and thus save for owners... Nice vid again, thanks Jess. The non welding fratenity will be stoked :)
@36:35 Why don't you put the gauge base on the propshaft that isn't moving measuring the engine shaft?
Would it achieve the same thing and tell you run out and make it easier to read - less issues with space?
I'm not a sailor - zero experience - just armchair interested in method :)
Enjoy watching your content.
Cheers.
Is there a plan to install a line cutter at the propeller?
you should put locking nuts on adjusting bolts in front
Absolutely. Set the adjustment, then lock it in.
I assume he is going to grout it, he explicitly said he is going to grout the transmission mounts, e.g. @44:30 "I want to get my dam in for the Chock Fast", I'd think he do the front mount too, the end of the one screw in the center is providing minimal bearing surface for long term operation, fine for static alignment but not so much for a running diesel engine bouncing through heavy seas.
Why not a flex coupling between the flanges, easier and noise damping.
For this engine it’s around 10k to flex mount, as we are community funded by our Patreons that’s just not an option for us.
@12:00 Love @12:44 he kills the moment hahahaha
best show on youtube atm :)
Oh Sea Dee ...... Catch Excellence.. Love it ;)
Hype! new vid!
How about pushing the shaft up until the two disk are just touching then rotating the shaft so the two surfaces hone themselves to a perfect fit?
47:34 - Regarding the pivot point for the alignment being "too far" forward, is it possible to swap the transmission mounts port->starboard and starboard->port and move the pivot point backwards that way? Not sure if everything would line up, but if so, that would shift the points back from where they are now.
Lots of hoops to jump through, getting it aligned. There must be a really good reason why you won't put a flexible / compliant joint in between the gearbox and the shaft. I'm sure it's been mentioned in a previous episode, but i forgot. Was it the required torque spec, or the available space to put it?
It was the 10k price tag for the flex coupling and three mounts sized to the engine
@@ProjectBrupeg oof, yeah, that's a good reason. 😅
Forget converting to steam - there should be some warp drives going spare now that Star Trek: Picard has ended.
Kicking goals there.. or seeing as you are Kiwis, running in tries? (I donno) but great :)
Way back in the day ( about 30 years ago ) Survey insisted on Intumescent 2 pac in the engine room, guess who Dad got to do that job 😵💫
Question is the bolt holes in flange and thread bolt holes are probably off by more than what you are trying to get. Get It close and get the boat in the water
Bolts are just to clamp it. Alignment is a seperate thing. It must be aligned correctly and then clamped in that position using the bolts
Are you going to fit a vibration meter so you can monitor your awesome work? You know. sipping your morning coffee with the overlay on the big screen wondering what sort of vibes the surrounding vessels are contaminating you with.
Does your alignment take into account any thermal expansion of the engine and gearbox - or can the shaft just be pushed and pulled that small amount without problems?
No account taken for heat as the temps remain low. Our stern tube is oil cooled to the temp of seawater. But if expansion does happen the shaft can just move backwards a few thou
Rotate the Face of the Dial Gauge to Zero it!
What about thermal expansion of the shaft line ? Wondering if it is significant. Maybe necessary to offset in the cold state so that it becomes aligned in the hot state. You would need to know what the vertical growth is expected to be.
The shaft is axially constrained by the gear box, the only "alignment" shaft expansion would affect would be the sand seal. That might be why he compressed the O-ring by 3mm? But I'd expect the shaft tube and shaft to be at a similar temperature, the shaft might be a little hotter, but I bet it not a huge amount more.
YEA BOY , NO8 WIRE STYLE
A damper bush/donut ,is something like that suitable to use on the driveline?most vehicle drivelines have one or two ,maybe not having insulated mounts is giving you some extra stress in the alignment .
Normally on commercial boats they don’t rubber mount. Solid is the standard method. That said it’s possible to do but costs around 10k for us to go that way
I am glad you are doing the alignment to this degree of accuracy (I would have done the same) , check if the grub screw on the prop shaft flange is good and can hold hard reverse thrust, should you need to power away from rocks you wouldn't dream of the shaft slipping out when you need it most. I love your level of patience and accuracy y-all. I wish you many years of good voyages and good health .
? Q how do you know that the flang on the prop is a perfect circle any off-set will throw out any measurements taken...should the surface be paint free ? A brilliant show ..
Yes the surface needs to be paint free to get an accurate reading. The outer diameter of the prop coupling will have been machined true when it was made it’s it’s practically impossible for it to go oval after that process. So yes it’s possible but unlikely to be out of round
check propshaft coupling run out before reassembly this will throw out alingnment also as to properly face align couplings you need to measure the same point on each coupling as you rotate both together
Just wondering why you’re not using the waist oil to produce heat and thrust.
Alignment looks good was it checked when you turn the propeller shaft?
look add Aquadrive antivibration system. No aligning and vibration problems.
If money were no issue that would be great. However it’s around 10k for a flex mount system for this vessel.
Why is it so difficult? Usually, alignment is important and difficult to fit into, so why don't you connect the axes with Universal Join?
Does the gearbox manufacturer manual give you thermal expansion figures to take into account when doing the gearbox alignment? Spent many years "misaligning" things so when up to temperature the are in alignment. I like the effort your putting in to getting it right. Been there where something out of your control is causing a bad alignment. Really frustrating.
Will need to check on that.
Damian this might help .. im a fitter and turner get this in your head 1000 divided by 25.4 mm = 39.37 so 1 mm = 0.0394 thou mate just remember this instead 1mm = 40 thou this makes shifting the decimal point easy so 1/10 of a mm = 0.004 thou [4 thou ] make 1/100 mm =0.0004 thou or less than 1/2 thou so each mark on that metric dial is less than 1/2 thou … its funny I’ve asked young engineers how many thou in a inch there basic come back I only know metric come on I edge them im basically telling you the answer … haha buddy I’ve found digital verniers these day good enough for most turning work we didnt have digital ones when I did my apprenticeship but if you buy a good pair say mitoyo brand $300 there great for 1/2 thou even that accuracy you moving into realms of surface grinders and temp controlled environments Ive used 1mm =40 though all my turning life and never came unstuck some old machines lathes are only imp scaled I’ve just held my mouth the right way approaching the 40 thou good enough turning metric on a imp lathe … ask a young engineer how many tho in a inch you be dumbfounded how many can’t answer that easy question the normal answer is I only know metric hahaha ..
Ps an average hair on your head is 4 thou some ppl thinner by 1 some ppl thicker by 1 Ive never measured a bees dick but hell a bees dick must be accurate all old machinists use that measurement hahahaha you can see a fly shit on paper so out a fly shit is sometimes not good enough ..
1mm =40 also makes drill selection easy too 1/2 inch =500 thou 1/4 inch = 250 thou 1/8 = 125thou 1/16 =0.0625 thou 1/32 =0.03125 thou 1/64 = 0.0155 [close enough ] im sure you see the pattern I’ve done the young guys are amazed I can pick up a imperial drill and quickly in my head tell them to 1/2 mm accuracy what that imperial drill is … give me a 3/4 drill at a hardware store sorry I haven’t got a 3/4 ok give me a 19 mm close enough hahaha 19 x 40 = 760 ,,, my 40 is slightly big hey 19 x 3937 = 0.748 how much closer than a fly shit must one be ..you be pulling your imperial drill set out looking for that 10.25 tapping drill before you know it …. This is what I do. In my head ok im looking for a 10.25 mm drill 10.25 x40 is 410 thou I know this is already a fly shit big in my conversion .375 is 3/8th too small but if I add 1/32 to 3/8th .375 +.031 = .406 so a 10.25 drill for tapping now becomes imp drill 13/32 or you could even go up a 1/64 and still be ballpark 27/64th …. Please pass this onto the young ones explain the hair on your head is 4 thou 1mm = 40 thou just a fly shit big 1000thou in a inch 1 inch 1/2 inch =500 1/4 =250 1/8th =125 and so forth engineering and its conversions and tolerances made easy … of course the easiest converter for metric to imp and spot on is your digital verniers dial the number lock them off and push the button the fractional size is as previously explained bit of practice you do it all in your head and amaze your friends ..
Shame there's no room what so ever for a yoke between the prop shaft and reduction gears. Other way to align shafts is to remove or slide the prop flang back so you have that messurement shaft to shaft. 🤔🤔Flanges will never align. Take a secondary messurerment off the bildge brackets and ceiling to realinge the shafts. Once the prop flange is reinstalled. An over head cross lazer is a big help narrowing engine gear box and prop alignment.👉👉We do the same for pump to electric motor alignments in the U.S. Navy. Another trick for tight spaces install a flex coupling between the prop and gear box. To make up the difference and done.
Day-me-yen will this boat ever?
Yeah we are really sorry about that, we wish we could go much faster but we are grateful and lucky to have so much amazing support, and we are looking forward to what this project can create in the future for everyone. Doing this on a shoestring budget and working as hard as we can is a slow process and we can’t wait to be launched because our costs will go right down and we will be able to do more for the community. Thanks for your feedback, hope your having a nice day. Jess
Where can I get the centering guage?
Any good tool shop. They are called dial gauges with a magnetic base
Jess must be a trades person with the molestation of you while you where under the motor painting and couldn’t escape quickly lol
Where is the thrust bearing on this boat? Does it push against the sand seal? or the internals of the gearbox?
Gearbox is the thrust bearing
@@ProjectBrupeg Ahh thanks! Its great then you are going to the effort of getting that flange aligned perfectly then. And also explains why no flexible coupling, no flexible coupling would ever handle that thrust force along its axis.
So all the force of the prop is going through those big white gearbox brackets you guys and gals made? No wonder you made them so incredibly solid. I cant imagine what kind of thrust that prop makes, and all that thrust going through those plates must be insane. The compound you will be using to hold it all steady once aligned (chock fast) that stuff is ok with that force?
(not questioning your judgement, i honestly just have no idea, im a programmer haha)
Yes it’s used on ocean liners etc so it’s properties are pretty well known. As for thrust. The engine produces 1080lb/ft of torque and the gearbox is a 4:1 reduction so torque at the prop is around 4,300lb/ft
@@ProjectBrupeg Thats insane. Always keen when a new brupeg video pops up. Kinda of jealous to be honest. Would love to work on it! Btw, is it a ship or a boat? or a vessel?
Depends on who’s talking about it. Boat/vessel for us, small ship for others that think it’s massive
I found the price for everything cheaper in Bundaberg than in Gladstone
No rubber on those mounts? Not worrried about vibration transmitted through the boat?
Normally on commercial boats they don’t rubber mount. Solid is the standard method. That said it’s possible to do but costs around 10k for us to go that way