Thanks for a video on something I would have no idea on all the small movements and describing the operation of the device. I will be attempting to do the repair on my clone 372.
Thanks mate you have helped me a lot! I even had to dremel out some material from my aftermarket chinese fuel tank for this lever to fit inside it’s handle. Also operator presence lever missed the small pin that is supposed to hold the spring in place. I replaced that with a piece of stainless pop rivet rod thingy and I also made a pin for it out of a broken drill bit. Amazing how many things can be fixed for free
I was able to finally repair the throttle lock/operator presence lever on my 390XP (same part #s as the 372XP). After watching this video and various other videos (two more I believe) and reading the official Husqvarna workshop manual, I gave it a try. The problem I was having was connecting the spring to the trigger, I was overthinking the darn (@#$%Q) thing. The spring portion that goes to the trigger has a hooked end, and I was trying to find the slot that it was supposed to hook into/onto (6:30 in this video). In the end all I had to do was place the hooked end of the spring on top of the left trigger rail, and didn't hook it into anything. I found this out by mistake as I was giving up and it worked! If indeed the hooked end needs to go into a trigger recess/slot, then my spring went into it automatically as I rotated the spring 90 degrees to the left, guided the return spring underneath the lip and the under-side of the hand grip (using official workshop wording), and onto the trigger. I'm still confused on where the hooked end goes because the lever obscures the top of the trigger once it is installed. On the successful try, I had the lever installed in under 30 seconds. Now I have to repair my broken throttle lock on my 372XP, which doesn't have a window in the hand grip. There is no way I could have repaired this without the window and your video.
This has to be one of the most frustrating replacements on this saw...I started by trying to replace the throttle cable only to find out the aftermarket throttle cables are too long and do not properly tighten resulting in less than half throttle on the carb at full trigger pull. In the process of replacing the throttle cable I somehow manages to bend the Operator Presence spring and break off the Throttle Catch. 2 throttle cables and 30 new curse words I still cant get an OEM throttle cable and still cant figure out how to orient the Operator Presence spring with the limited visibility.
It is a tough one for sure. I think the best way to show this process is to split the saw's case. I do have a 353 that needs it case split so maybe I will do a video on that particular saw and see if there are any similarities. As for aftermarket parts, here's my general opinion on that. They is generally 50/50 chance the parts that did not meet OEM specs, so there's likely to be something that is not quite right with them. Either poor quality plastic, paper, metal or fluid part of its assembly process. Or it 's not quite the correct dimension. Sometimes still worth buying but some adjustment may be required. I read online that if the cable is a bit too long you can loosen the bolts on the carb and rotate the carb to pick up slack. That might work for you.
@@WoodchuckCanuck I have a 357 & 359 and their trigger assembly is completely different. Even the original 372XPW is said to be slightly different on forums. I finally was able replace the throttle cable correctly allowing full carburetor throttle at full trigger depression. My issue now is exactly what you replaced, the operator presence lever and presence spring. My replacements were installed however im getting some sort of binding between the presence lever, spring and throttle cable.
Great, helps a lot 👍
No problem 👍
Useful t watch for doing the same work
Thanks for a video on something I would have no idea on all the small movements and describing the operation of the device. I will be attempting to do the repair on my clone 372.
Hopefully your clone is as easy to work on as the real deal.
Thanks mate you have helped me a lot! I even had to dremel out some material from my aftermarket chinese fuel tank for this lever to fit inside it’s handle. Also operator presence lever missed the small pin that is supposed to hold the spring in place. I replaced that with a piece of stainless pop rivet rod thingy and I also made a pin for it out of a broken drill bit. Amazing how many things can be fixed for free
And today I realized that a broken drill bit can still have value! :)
I was able to finally repair the throttle lock/operator presence lever on my 390XP (same part #s as the 372XP). After watching this video and various other videos (two more I believe) and reading the official Husqvarna workshop manual, I gave it a try. The problem I was having was connecting the spring to the trigger, I was overthinking the darn (@#$%Q) thing. The spring portion that goes to the trigger has a hooked end, and I was trying to find the slot that it was supposed to hook into/onto (6:30 in this video). In the end all I had to do was place the hooked end of the spring on top of the left trigger rail, and didn't hook it into anything. I found this out by mistake as I was giving up and it worked! If indeed the hooked end needs to go into a trigger recess/slot, then my spring went into it automatically as I rotated the spring 90 degrees to the left, guided the return spring underneath the lip and the under-side of the hand grip (using official workshop wording), and onto the trigger. I'm still confused on where the hooked end goes because the lever obscures the top of the trigger once it is installed. On the successful try, I had the lever installed in under 30 seconds. Now I have to repair my broken throttle lock on my 372XP, which doesn't have a window in the hand grip. There is no way I could have repaired this without the window and your video.
The additional info on how the trigger and s shape end mate is important to know. Thanks you guys for the video and advise.
Nice instruction!
Thanks!
This has to be one of the most frustrating replacements on this saw...I started by trying to replace the throttle cable only to find out the aftermarket throttle cables are too long and do not properly tighten resulting in less than half throttle on the carb at full trigger pull. In the process of replacing the throttle cable I somehow manages to bend the Operator Presence spring and break off the Throttle Catch. 2 throttle cables and 30 new curse words I still cant get an OEM throttle cable and still cant figure out how to orient the Operator Presence spring with the limited visibility.
It is a tough one for sure. I think the best way to show this process is to split the saw's case. I do have a 353 that needs it case split so maybe I will do a video on that particular saw and see if there are any similarities.
As for aftermarket parts, here's my general opinion on that. They is generally 50/50 chance the parts that did not meet OEM specs, so there's likely to be something that is not quite right with them. Either poor quality plastic, paper, metal or fluid part of its assembly process. Or it 's not quite the correct dimension.
Sometimes still worth buying but some adjustment may be required. I read online that if the cable is a bit too long you can loosen the bolts on the carb and rotate the carb to pick up slack. That might work for you.
@@WoodchuckCanuck I have a 357 & 359 and their trigger assembly is completely different. Even the original 372XPW is said to be slightly different on forums. I finally was able replace the throttle cable correctly allowing full carburetor throttle at full trigger depression. My issue now is exactly what you replaced, the operator presence lever and presence spring. My replacements were installed however im getting some sort of binding between the presence lever, spring and throttle cable.
@@WoodchuckCanuck hey your video has been the most helpful so far! So thanks
My pin won't come out I'm afraid I'm gonna brake the plastic.