Smoking Generator Engine (Part 1) - Easy Fix or Engine Teardown?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- I picked up this Craftsman branded Briggs and Stratton powered generator on Craigslist for $80. The engine runs well and it makes power. Only problem is that it is burning oil and sending a lot of blue/gray smoke out the exhaust. I am hoping that this will be an easy fix. Lets dig in and find out.
Part 2: • Smoking Generator Engi...
Generator Model: 580.326300
Engine Model: 210415-0137-E1
Engine Code: 041213
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210415, 210415-0137,210415-0137-E1, 580.326300, Blown Head Gasket, Blue Smoke, Briggs and Strattor, Damaged Cylinder, Engine Smoking, Engine Teardown, Feeler Gauge,
Fixed, Generator, Gray Smoke, Head Gasket, How To, How-To, Lap Valves, Oil Ring, Oil Scrapper Ring, Overfilled Oil, Powerhead Uninstall, Rotor Removal, Small Engine, Smoking,
Stator Removal, Tap Threads, Troubleshooting, Valve Clearance, White Smoke,
I do want to THANK YOU for not using music.
I strongly second that! I’ve been watching some of James’ earlier videos and just saw one with music and thought to myself, “I am SO glad he doesn’t do that anymore!”
I agree
And no long intro productions and graphics! Longer than a couple of seconds and I'm out of there. Everyone thinks they are making Gone With The Wind.
@@hugh007 Saves you time also. I love it when they tell you to not watch it then. I already didn't watch.
Not enough thumbs up for this comment. It's often not just the music, but that it's never volume matched to the vocal level and can be jarring. Edited to state that I wasn't speaking of him in particular but many other similar channels.
I think you missed the valve stem seals on this one. You are right, you've got a bit of scoring in that cylinder but if you look at how much carbon was built up on that exhaust valve that's indicative of a leak at the exhaust valve stem seal. If you just had oil coming into the combustion chamber generally you'd see more uniform distribution of carbon.
Not to mention from a mechanical repair order of operations it's easier to replace those seals than tear everything apart as you've done to look at ring gap and scoring in the bore.
The Exhaust has no Valve seal only intake
@@danray9744 if there's not an actual valve stem seal then it's relying on that guide clearance to provide a minimum leak path. If that clearance has opened up to the point that you've got a problem it comes down to if that guide is replaceable or not. If it's cast into the head then it's new cylinder head time unless you're prepared to do the machine work yourself.
I don't see another avenue of repair here.
I see what looks like a spring around an exhaust valve seal but it's hard to tell. 28:10
The jaws of the drill chuck may have damaged the valve stem, where the seal seats. 28:56
The 1st thing my father taught me on my Honda 55 rebuild while doing the valves how important the valve guides seals are and what their job is
My Dad ran a Derby gas station in the 50's and early 60,s, in a small town in the midwest. I was somewhere "out of diapers"; r&r lawnmower engines, repairing tires and pumping gas for dad. Your're sure bringing back some great memories.
I have, two Clinton horizontal shaft engines I saved (1950's, oil bath) that needs my attention. It's all your fault! Thanks you!
My observation when you pulled the head off was the engine isn't burning oil in the cylinder. Very little burning on the piston. The oil is being burned in the exhaust port as the exhaust exits the cylinder. The oil appears to be being pushed through the valve seal. Burnt from the hot exhaust as it exits.
Valves and breathing I'm tending to agree with you, surprised he didn't fit an inlet valve seal, also clean the oil out of the exhaust silencer.
Could be. Leaking valve seals are something that happen on bmws v8 engines. You get lots of smoke from the exhaust.
only the intake valve has a seal on these Briggs Engines
@@danray9744 That being the case then the valve guide clearance is the issue. Still burning oil in the exhaust port.
@@FishFind3000 not a pressurized oil system, doesnt have vertical valve so oil doesnt get there easily like with OHV v8 designs, oil built on exhaust valve simply because it is the hottest place, piston cleaner due to issue was short term run after cylinder wall damage and piston is cooler than the head or valves. minimal oil in there because engine is able to burn it under load due to increased heat under load. Content Creator is on the right path although he should have used some tape, plastic, or cloth to chuck the valve up in drill i dont think the valve guide is the issue and dont think the exhaust has a valve seal in those only one for intake. ring 2 removed from the piston was at the 5-6oclock position where the most oil lays which could have filled the area between ring 1 and ring 2 with oil since oil is slung right at bottom of piston so essentially only 1 ring was working to sweep oil from the bottom and it passing over both the worst scratches.
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
You reached dad joke level 11 with the seamless integration of that smoking gun/smoking engine pun. That was so slick that it could almost skate by a wife's dad-pun detection system. Major Kudos! Also, as usual, great detective work!
Great teaching. I especially enjoyed the explanation of the breather pulse even though you explained that it wasn't as helpful in this situation. One thing I would have checked on the initial teardown would have been the flatness of the head with a straight edge. I have been burned by this, suspecting a blown head gasket only the find the new gasket gets blown in short order. Perhaps head warpage is not common on aluminum /air cooled engines. Obviously, your second tear down showed that it wasn't a warped head as the new gasket you placed looked pristine. Kind Regards, Craiog
Thank you James, I guess trying save a few bucks is out of question for me now. Anyway, keep your channel on the air, I enjoy watching it and I actually learned a lot just by watching you do all the repairs on those generators.
I enjoy this channel alot. The amazing amount of detail james goes into is amazing. Ive learned alot just on carbs alone. Im still watching to learn to do more complicated work like head, valves, etc. i probably learned more watching james than i would have at my local tech school.
I love watching these videos James, they're almost like a detective show trying to figure out "who done it'!
Yes, I felt the same way. Sometimes I guess right, sometimes I learn how to guess better next time. Either way, it is awesome education.
If this were an old tired motor, the default solution to smoking would be to add an oil thickening agent and wait until the compression weakens. I wonder what happened to this motor originally. I appreciate the troubleshooting steps.
I don't mind a long video as long as it provides good info and your videos do that. I always seem to learn a little more with each video and I have been messing with engines, small and large for over 40 years. Just keep doing what you do best, fix and educate.
Every time I start watching your show I can’t stop it’s two o’clock in a m and I can’t stop watching even those I’m exhausted and falling asleep great show draws you in !to keep watching ! Great show !
You're so calm when you had to tear it down again... I would have lost it and got out the sledge hammer, reducing the engine to small pieces of scrap aluminum! Thanks for contrasting me with a true mechanic!
Great find. I'm looking forward to part two next week. Wishing you good 🤞 luck.👍👍👍
Doc., great diagnostic and learning video for me and I'm sure others also. Can't wait to see the final outcome.
Hello, James. I enjoy your detective work. I wonder if you will write a book someday. The adventures of a backyard Mechanic! Thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
It's gratifying to see that you do not use a lot of SSTs (special service tools,as Toyota sez), you just use "generic" mechanics tools. Add in a DMM (digital multimeter),a voltage/frequency tester,& I see that you use a variety of watt loads that you likely rescued from trash rather than buying a cluster of the same make/model. On top of that you are keeping a lot of IC devices out of landfill or metal recycling. All for a few $ worth of parts & your expert time. Thank you for your many vids, I wish I had found something like this back in 1976-1984 when I was learning shade-tree motorcycle maintenance.
Many have already said the stem seals and that be my thought as well. Intake valve stem seal for sure. And typically there is not an exhaust stem seal, but shenanigans on that, I put one on the exhaust as well.
Hone the cylinder, get some new standard rings, slap it back together. Even if they made oversize rings and you grind them down to get the proper ring gap, now its a cost consideration for parts and your time too.
Awesome video. Cheers!
The intake valve looked pretty clean. Probably should have replace the seal first. That would have been easier to try. Guess I have a backup plan.
I'm so lost watching your far beyond my understanding skills!!! Thinking of finding someone with these skills to repair my old Tecunseh 11hp generator - nah. My new Champion is encountered now. I've changed oil, plug, cleaned a very nasty fuel tank, fresh gas, clean fuel to the carb, took carb bowl off and float. Carb cleaner. And thats my limit! Thanks for showing all this and that you certainly have UNREAL skills, old school level. Thanks.
I agree with Donald Johnson. I believe a closer inspection of the intake valve stem seal may reveal cracks or wear that may be causing this issue. It may also be related to excessive valve guide clearance. Just a guess though.
Hi James I took note of your comment on the difficulty with the tight locktite bolts. When I have good accessibility to the bolts, similar to your on camera situation. I give them a quick first attempt. If the bolts do not release I use my torch to heat the bolt head in the center. Use a very fine tip flame if possible. It does not take much heat. The locktite will soften and extraction is much easier. As you always mention I hope this helps. Keep the videos coming, I am looking forward to seeing the after honing result.
I’ve had similar success using heat on threadlocked fasteners. I thought about doing it in this case but was wondering how to get the heat onto the thread area. You solved that mystery for me, so thanks!
It'll be a leaking valve guide seal. Replace them. Reckon that'll fix the problem. The reason it smokes more at low rpm than under load is to do with vacuum between the throttle butterfly and the closed inlet valve transitioning to the vacuum intake portion of the 4 stroke cycle. There's more vacuum between them under light loads than under higher loads. Because at higher loads the throttle butterfly is more open creating less vacuum. Ie the more the throttle is opened the closer the cylinder sees closer to atmospheric pressure. Therefore not pulling as much oil through the valve guide and seal. Anyway that's my take on most likely what I would say your issue is. Cheers
Good point. Was hoping to see more smoke at idle, but it definitely seems a lot better under load.
Your episodes are like "Zorro", when I was young, always welcomed, always entertaining.
Looks like it could be the exhaust valve stem seal
The comments section is sometimes more informative than the video. "I think there's a lesson in that for all of us..." 😁
A B&S 'most common' problem sharing page could be very useful. Or for all small engines. Especially now that our governments are trying to push us back a few decades.
That wouldn’t draw oil into the cylinder to be burned though (and it’s hard to say for sure, but it doesn’t look like it has a seal on the exhaust side). If it’s a seal, I’m leaning more toward the intake valve stem seal, which would have the same symptoms: when the intake is under vacuum due to a part closed throttle, this sucks oil past the seal, down the valve, and into the combustion chamber, leading to more smoke under low load/low rpm conditions, and this clears up when the throttle opens because the intake isn’t under so much vacuum. I had a car with ruined seals and it behaved just like that engine.
The only odd part is I’m not sure how much oil actually gets up into the valvetrain in that engine, since it’s completely splash lubricated, but it started smoking almost instantly after the head gasket replacement. So I think his plan to do rings and a hone may well actually be the best option to clear up the smoke… but I’d still replace the valve stem seal anyway, being a Briggs it can’t be really expensive, and if it’s been overheated, that may have compromised the seal too.
@@dphoenix1 i would think both seals are bad. I was watching real closely when he pushed the valves through the seals and they seem to have some springiness but they can go bad and pull oil under the bottom side of them as well. I have had them burn me once on a small engine I sold as junk. And a old man told me what it was after he fixed it and how to tell.
Now I'm old lol
Pro Tip. is leak down all you need is some compressed air and low pressure air gauge and a pressure regulator.
Cost under $50 to make the setup with some tube and you can inject air into the crankcase at 4:00 or 5 PSI and that should tell you where your leak is just by the sound of that air.
@@dphoenix1 I think it wouldn't have to be drawn in, it may just drip in. This whole area above the seal is normally drenched in oil with the engine running.
The wet exhaust valve was the clue to bad valve stem-to-engine sealing. Carbon crud will always grow there but is normally dry-ish looking; this looked like dripping wet. Hard crud means OK, soft crud means sealing issue. I honestly wondered why you didn't investigate that further.
I would also consider filling the scarred head gasket sealing areas with JB weld mixed with very fine aluminum dust, heavy on the aluminum. Plate-glass sanding back to flat on both surfaces. This needs some depth and mass, eyeball around 150 thou or more in the main area, and drill or grind a bit deeper as needed to avoid making a 'sheet' which tends to crumble in time. Edges can be thinnish as long as the middle 3/4 has strength. This won't hold compression and it's heat directly but it will support the remaining metal which looks thick enough to keep the epoxy isolated while fully supporting the gasket. I've done this on motorcycles and cars so it should work here.
Looking forward to watching your honing technique and equipment; everyone does that a little differently. With that and the valve seal fixed this one should have a lot of life left in it as long as they keep the oil full. Always a pleasure watching you work with such care and thought- a true Craftsman working on a Craftsman!
It was dripping with PB Blaster too.
The air/gas mix travel only one way: from the carburetor to the piston and through the exhaust valve and muffler. The fact that there was a lot of carbon on the valves mean that it came from the intake valve or the rings (cylinder) but cannot come back from the exhaust valve.
@@cunnings309 Carbon results from combustion so of course every exhaust valve will have carbon on it. But that's not what we're talking about here. What I pointed out is the difference between normal carbon (dry and hard) and carbon from excess oil entering the engine (wet and softer). Has nothing at all to do with the air/fuel mix or where it goes.
I learned a trick almost 40 years ago to help people get their go carts overhauled without getting the cylinder bored. Order the ten thousanths over sized rings. Grind down the ring gaps to just barely fit in the bore at the top of the cylinder where the rings never reach. Then they are usually within spec in the worn out portion of the cylinder.
Thats an interesting idea.
You can replace the rings, hone the cylinder as the cross hatching has worn away.....you can also have the piston skirt knurled which can increase it's diameter a few thousandths. I would also replace the valve guides and seals. . Great video!
James,
I've watched almost all of your vids and I'm amazed at how meticulous you are
at diagnosing small engines and generators. You remind me of me and mechanical
engineering. I also have auto/diesel and small engine degrees from my younger
days. Growing up on a farm required repairing everything and I had to be very
mechanically inclined, my schooling paid off.
I believe you missed the RED flag when you pulled the head off at the 20 minute
mark. Look how clean the top of the piston is, look how clean the inside of the
intake port is, see how oily and dirty the inside of the exhaust port is and how
bad the carbon build up is on the exhaust valve. Spark plug has little carbon
build up so oil consumption is not in combustion chamber. Oil consumption is in
exhaust valve chamber. Point of oil consumption will always be where the most
carbon build up is and where it is the wettest. If oil consumption was in the
cylinder / ring area, exhaust port would be dry flakey build up and spark plug
would have carbon build up and wet.
Need to check exhaust valve guide clearance with a dial indicator if you don't
have the proper gauge tools to check valve guides and seals. Does this engine
require guide seals?
On kohler K series engines, we used to press out the old guides and press in new
ones. On those B&S I believe replace head works best.
Looking forward to seeing part 2
Wish I had though of that before opening the bottom end. At least I have a plan B if the ring replacement does not work. I also have an extra head I could throw on. The plug I dismissed since someone else was in there working on it before me. There was also a puddle of oil on top of the piston. Would have thought the intake is the more likely candidate as the valve is open when the engine is pulling a vacuum, but that valve look clean. Not sure...
@@jcondon1 Plan B sounds good. Since you did a total break down, do hone the bottom of cylinder more than top (top usually wears more than bottom) New rings, Should be able to get .002 over STD size. This will help keep ring gap with in tolerance. Do check ring gap.
Think about it, top of piston was real clean compared to the exhaust valve, oil puddle from exhaust valve leaking.
Exhaust guide could have been defective from factory since minimal wear on cylinder spec. This engine most likely LOW hours.
1:06:42 Fugetaboutit. Must be from NY. I'm living in Georgia now since '05 and still say that to the amusement of the southerners around me. What's worse is that now I say "fugetaboutit, y'all" down here. 🤣 As always, love your videos.
Jim, I always learn from you. I appreciate your video's ! As always, *THUMBS-UP* !!!
Good idea on blown head gasket
Hello James, I am agreeing with Donald, I would have thought either VALVE Guides or Valve Stem oil seals , especially as it was right up the exhaust valve stem? Great Video as always. Regards Richard 🇬🇧
Thanks for sharing another great video James. Always something new, challenging and unexpected! I look forward to seeing what the main culprit is. Content like this takes hours to make, edit, upload etc, thank you for taking the time to bring us along!
I wonder if maybe the valve guides (or seals if this engine uses them) are worn and letting oil pass a little bit too. A good honing, some new rings and maybe a knurling on the valve guides if they’re worn. Can’t wait for part 2, this is a good mystery James!
As others have mentioned your oil control issue is from valve guide sealing. Anytime you have a light engine load you have high manifold vacuum. That vacuum is what’s pulling oil through the guides. That’s why under load the oil plume clears. Scoring on the cylinder will increase oil consumption but it won’t be huffing smoke as seen in the video. I recently worked on a worn out Corvair engine for a customer (6cyl air-cooled) and the rings were really shot. We were talking 3/16” ring gaps and that engine had a very light smoking on steady throttle.
Whoooeee! Another doozy! You’re a better man than I, Gunga Din. I would have given up earlier in the search, and let the engine smoke. Haha.
JB Weld that shit. Cold War Motors (Scott Newstead) has filled in a giant gouge in a cylinder in his low mileage 37 or 36 (I don't remember which) chevy from rust damage from sitting. He hasn't put it back together, but there are MANY, MANY stories of cylinders being fixed with JB weld and holding for many years. There isn't a lot of pressure on it from an advantageous leveraged position. All of the forces are just pushing the JB Weld INTO the cylinder. No perpendicular forces on it. Should hold fine.
Personally I think it's not a great idea to just hone away until they are either eliminated or severely reduced. What the hell, it's TH-cam content. Surely this video is worth more to you than what this fixed generator is worth.
James, your patience kills me. I've watched most of your videos, your patience kills me.
James I try to guess what is wrong and most of the time I’m wrong ! But you always get it right great job great knowledge of the problem love the show keep it up for us to diagnose the problems !mostly wrong !
The plot thickens! Looking forward to the conclusion. When you first started the engine, my first thought was rings, closely followed by valve guide seals. I am not sure if this engine has removable seals for the valve stems, but I remember way back in time, I had a smokey car engine, and changing the valve guide seals fixed it. Good luck. I hope you get it fixed.
James honing and new rings give it a try the only option left ,check the ring gap make sure its up to spec lets see next week how the ting goes
Check your valve guides and the valve stem seals, that looks like a classic vale seal/guide issue, thank you for a great video
5.5.22 James, another fine repair video. Waiting for the finish of this one. Thanks again.
I think I could live with that smoke. But still cool to see what’s all in that generator, I have the same one I bought for $50 at a yard sale. It needed a good carb cleaning and the in tank filter was pretty grungy.
First thing i noticed is, it look like you have done this before since it looks like you have the right tools. Nice trick getting off the armature.
After reading the comments and thinking about it. I did notice alot of smoke when you shut it off.
The thing I remember from working on motors is what type of oil was used. Is it possible the wrong oil was used as well as are the intake guild and seals worn? That would cause oil to burn and if the oil is to thin it would blow by the rings.
Hone the block and re ring the motor worst case put a hotter plug in it with a thicker oil. If it's a straight 30 go to a 40 and check the valve guilds. Good luck nice video!
Thanks
Thank you for not using any music in your videos
You can push a hone thru and see if those scars clean up, or at least get better. Generator runs and makes power, there’s a customer who will buy it.
Good on you James hope all is well
I pick up onan gen sets all the time for $200 or less. just got a
onan 7kw with only 50 hours for $100. cleaned the points and carb and runs like new. perfect oil pressure and compression.
at one time I has 13 onan gen sets that ran great. I get them out of wrecked and abandoned rv.s
the older cast oron block onans are bullet proof .
Love the length of the video. And of course, the work performed. Great detail once again.
Don't forget about valve seals those are a big point of failure on these engines, they won't look it but once you replace them with new and go to put the valves back in you will feel the difference as there is more resistance which means they're properly sealing. As far as the cylinder and that stuff goes I'd say just hone it with a good bead hone and put a nice 45 degree cross hatch to it and put a new std piston and rings in and that will most likely solve the issue for a long time to come.
Forgot to mention as well if there are steel or brass valve guides sometimes oil will push around them especially if they have a o ring but it's pretty uncommon for that to be the issue, just food for thought. I don't think these briggs engines have that but I've been wrong before lol.
My first guess would be the piston oil ring then the valve stem seal , we wait until next week.
Thank you for another great video. I like your malicious diagnosis on what is wrong and the cost efficient way of repairing the issues. Will be waiting for the next video. 😀❤
nice job... i think the only thing i would have done different is before ripping into the crank case i would have changed the valve seals while you were doing the valves .. that way it would have been no doubt it was rings .. cool vid !!!
Service is so much more comfortable standing up...get a table or cart to set this stuff on to work on it. HF etc even have scissor lift carts if you do it a lot. Much faster, more comfortable and better for your knees hips and back
To clean carbon i used to use Chrysler combustion chamber cleaner. (Chrysler part no. 4318001AD). FWIW it has been a few years and the product may have changed. We used to spray cylinder heads and tops of pistons and wait over night. What carbon that was left would simply wipe off. Saved time and effort as well as not wearing out brushes, etc..
There may be other brands of a similar product but i was working at a Chrysler dealer and that was what we had.
When I regularly had a small bike engine in pieces,I used to lap head mating faces with a piece of glass and some fine valve grinding compound. Now I have a car with warranty I don't tinker! However with the advent of hobby rock tumbling carbide grits are easy to find to 2000 mesh which could be useful for polishing mating surfaces
Looked as if there are valve stem seals. Suggest you change them as well.
When you first took the head off, the scratching was visible, but not as bad as at the bottom.
Admire your patience
Despite not seeing any metal chunks in the oil, my guess for oil blow by would have been from valve guide wear allowing oil in.
Great yes nice bit of homing should do it come back on this one loved it ! John from the UK
I never would have thought about the head gasket.
Excellent video, Great Tutorials and explanation, Very good camera positioning and editing video. ❤❤👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Eh weld up the bore, bore it out, slap some new rings in it and away you go. Nice video I hope to see it up and running. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
This was a very entertaining video for me. I learned allot. Great job. I hope you get it smokeless with minimal cost. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I look forward to the next one.
I bet you can fix it with a hone and some rings . I would put a new valve seal in just to be safe ! Great job so far my friend .. ENJOYED
Fantastic job! I had an almost identical unit to this. The Craftsman 5500W with Briggs. Bought it brand new in 2003, right after the famous blackout. Paid around $850 for it on sale at Sears. Made in the USA. Beautiful unit. Well built. I did a proper break in under varying loads, and then fully winterized it by getting the tank and carb dried out, and always spraying marvel down the plug hole. In fact, my first time removing the plug wire, I cut may hand open on the sharp edge of the sheet metal, just like the one you have. Craftsman later added a plastic/rubber guard over that, as I'm sure this happened to many people. 20 years later, I still have the scar on my hand. I'm guessing this unit is 2003-2005?
I'm in agreement with your troubleshooting and analysis James. I would have removed and checked the crankcase breather reed valve first, as a plugged/blocked breather will cause very similar issues. On engines with a top mount dipstick, lifting up the dipstick will allow the crankcase to breathe, and see if the breather is clogged. On this engine, there is no way to do that, unless you remove the fill plug, but you'd have a mess on your hands.
The fact that the visual smoke went away when you brought the RPM way down, also seems to lead towards a clogged breather possibly
There is no question that the grooves in the cylinder are allowing "some" oil through, but honestly, I don't think they are the root cause either.
I had a Tecumseh that the piston was rusted in place after sitting outside for 10 years in the weather. After lots of oil and breaking it free, the bore was scratched MUCH worse than what you have, and while it consumed oil, there was no visual smoke.
It's worth looking at that reed valve on the breather.
they do sell over size rings james, ive used them plenty of times in chainsaws
looks like valve stem seals to me :-) typically more smoke with more intake vacuum .
Yeah clean up the bore. New rings. Call it a day. It will run a long time provided it is serviced.
As usual i enjoyed the video. I'm not sure if this is true but it seemed to me your viewers had many very insightful comments about this video. I really liked the comments about the possibility of a leaking intake valve seal.
Watching your video is like taking a generator class👍👍👍👍
Hi James always very enjoyable sitting in your class mate You must have put quite a few man hours on this project already But I feel this gene has some quality about it and could be worth the gamble
Great video! What did use to clean up face of the head and cilinder? Arent you worried to 'warp' the head?
THank you!
A Very good video. be waiting for the next one. keep up the good work.
I love it, that was a great video and so very informative. Learn a bunch every time you put out a video can't wait for the conclusion of this one.
There is one last test I would have done, before the complete tear-down. After you did the valve job, I would have run it LOADED for an hour or so, to get the oil residue out of the muffler itself! It's real possible, that getting the exhaust real hot, by sustaining a ~3,000 watt load, would burn the residue out of the muffler, then it might possibly have stopped smoking. A new spark plug could also give clues, as to whether the smoke is just oil in the exhaust, or indeed, the cylinder.
When I was a mechanic, I had a problem like that. After a few questions, I learned that the owner had put on mixed gas like in 2-stroke engines.
Well if it's a 4 stroke as most are you just put 2 times as much 2 stroke mixed gas in right???
To MrMotofy: no not exactly. In 4 strokes engine, you put the oil (like SAE 30) in the motor base or oil pan and you check it with the dipstick. In a 2 strokes engine, you mix the oil in the gasoline (like 40 parts of gasoline for 1 part of 2 stroke oil or as indicated on the label) and you put that mix in the gas tank.
@@cunnings309 PSST it's a joke
It always amazes me how close the crank, connecting rod, piston and block clearances are ..
PS, change the valve guides (and seals if it has them) if you can …
the valves are horizontal and no pressurized oil, it isnt like OHV engines with oil standing on top of the valve seals waiting to run into the cylinders like everyone assumes here in the comments. Manufacturers should have had to specify vertical or horizontal (V or H/OHV) since so many have this notion and cannot see what is up or sideways without being told.
Jim, it has so little wear; just get a cylinder hone, go over it good, so most scratches are gone. Then put in new piston, new rings, and it will run like a clock, for years...!!!!!....nothing to lose...!!!
"There's really no smoking gun here. Just a smoking engine." 😁👍👍
When ever I lap a valve I think it is like starting a fire with a stick?? LOL I am looking forward to the next one.
Lol, thanks Bruce
Love your videos I learned a lot on how to fix my generator or my lawn mower. I wanted to ask how many videos are you filming at any given point
Sometimes 5 or 6 over the coarse of weeks or months.
@@jcondon1 that's got to get confusing at some point
Those knuckle busting exhaust nuts are gnarly 😁
Great video as always. Engine looks in good shape. Look forward to seeing part 2.
Head gasket leaks throw gasses into the crank case and/or the oil system. Oil almost never goes the other way. Water can get into the engine when stopped but you’ll also get hydrocarbons in coolant. Air cooled head gaskets just make a popping noise.
Yes I enjoy your videos very much w I have a collection of gas Motors chainsaws that I bought to fix that I've had a change of planned I'm in Detroit Michigan area I'd like to give them to somebody like you to repair and even use training as you do in your videos
Thanks for the good video (as always)😊
Have you considered a bad valve seal?
most excellent diagnosis and technique,, looking forward to part II,,, :-)
Nice job James! Enjoyed part 1!😊
Great job James, looking forward to seeing next weeks video. Thanks for sharing 😃
Nice find James. Does that model have a valve rotator in it? I did not see one. Some do and some don't. Thanks for the video.
I really like the idea of honing the engine and replacing the rings. I think you will reduce the smoking enough to sell the gen.
Could be the breather valve is stuck crank pressher build up forcing oil past the rings enjoyed your vid thanks just shows how diagnosing smoking engines can be so difficult .we seem to live in a throw away world now which is sad as we have finite resources
Great video as always , I concur with the valve guide seal issue it seemed to smoke more when you throtted it back that would have caused a higher vacuum and sucked more oil through the inlet valve guides.
I was thinking the same with the smoke at low speed but thought the vacuum leak was the gasket, but that looked fine. Already ordered the rings so will try that first and look at the valve guide issue next if still smoking.
Another great Video. I was looking for your "Carb screwdriver" in your Amazon store but I didn't see it? Where did u get?
Not currently available on Amazon. Might be available elsewhere www.amazon.com/Bald-Eagle-BE1023-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver/dp/B00CG2KPKA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pb_opt?ie=UTF8
Generator engines typically fail because of running for extended periods of light or no load. This allows the bore to glaze up and provide a poor seal for the rings. The cure was very simple, instead of running under 3000w load, run it at 6000w load until it clears.
You should use a stove grill sanding stone on top of cylinder and head. Where ever the head bolts are, they will pull a little bit of aluminum around holes up. Sanding will help make cylinder mating surfaces flat.
The trouble nowadays is the premade gaskets, I am well past my expiration date but we had to make all our own gaskets as being at sea we could not wait for a replacement gasket to be sent out to us, gaskets are easy to make and all we had was a sheet of each thickness and our skill even though we were not trying to get a little generator to work but the system is the same just much bigger.
Good Video looked like fun . Working with tools and fixing stuff is very satisfying
I agree with your tentative decision. I personally would hone the cylinder with a standard hone chucked in a drill, and I'd just hone it for a bit longer than you would normally when just breaking glaze and cross hatching a newly bore cylinder. Buy a new set of fitting-required chrome rings, and verify that the gap is good. Slap it together and see how it does. If it still burns a little bit of oil, dump some Restore oil additive in it. Project Farm had some apparent wild success using that product. The small scratch left after aggressive honing won't be that deep. The chrome rings will bite into the crosshatch a bit during break-in and shrink the depth of the scratch even more. Then the Restore or other sacrificial anti-wear product will plate over and fill in the rest of the scratch. Even if you have to put more Restore in with each oil change, whoopy do. It's cheaper than what you will have saved buying the generator for cheap or salvaging it off the curb. 🤷🏻♂️
That’s what I was thinking with the hone. I little more aggressive then normal should minimize the issue.