Having the coplaner issue can be looked at as a great lesson. The more you need to tweak the more you understand the machine and the better you get at tuning it. Any machine is going to need adjustment over the years and to keep it performing like day one on decade one will depend on your knowledge and experience with keeping is working perfectly.
I beg to differ. The reason Felder has such a poor reputation with pro woodworker's is because they never stay in adjustment. Their bed castings are not seasoned properly and are rarely perfectly flat. They rely heavily on jack screws that are held up by sheet metal and simply cannot hold dial in reliably. It's bad engineering full stop. It's IKEA machinery.
Thank you very much for this video. It is very informative. I find the constructive criticism you have very positive. You helped me a lot with my decision. I will buy the A3-41. Thank you and best regards from Germany. (Unfortunately my English is not so perfect, so I had to use the google translator).
I have an A3 31 which I find excellent, particularly the spiral cutter. Useful to be aware of the potential problem if the planer bed is overtightened. Thank you.
Hi Graham, thanks for the 2nd review - happy to hear I did the right thing to press the order button. I will be careful about over-tightening, thanks for the warning.
Excellent review! I bought one of these in November 2019. It arrived in January 2020 and shortly afterwards we went into lockdown, (New Zealand). When I finally got a sparky to install a 15A socket and replace the 1m factory lead with a longer one - the motor wouldn't work! The technician came out and said it needed a new motor. That took another 10 weeks, from the factory in Austria and installation. I haven't used my machine as much as expected due to work commitments but I'd give it an 8/10. The only issue apart from the motor is the feed roller drive. There is a chain that connects a driven gear near the bottom at the back with the two feed roller sprockets. It doesn't work properly - the feed is erratic, punctuated with little pauses. This leaves an imperfect finish on the material. I had a look by removing the back cover and upper panel and was surprised to see a bicycle chain on the roller mechanism and a single belt driving the cutter head! Anyway, this chain was slack due to the fact that the tensioner was activated by a crappy little spring which doesn't apply enough force. I pushed the tensioner arm back into position to take up the slack. I was using it again today and had the same problem. This time I found that the tensioner arm pivots around a bolt, with the nut accessible from the inside of the machine by the rise/fall table. I've tightened it up to stop the tensioner moving out of place and that seems to work. Just a couple of things from your previous 'first impressions' video. When you press the start button, keep it pressed until the machine reaches full rpm. Apparently something 'burns out' if you don't do that Your machine seems to have rubber feet. Did it come with those. I noticed a pizza oven through the window! Would you do a 5 minute vid on how you made it? Cheers
Hi Ultramontane. Wow, You got patience. I would have been screaming after all that. Just goes to prove no machine is perfect. But the one huge benifit is that when you gotta fix it, you really start to understand it. The feet where on mine when I got it, I just fitted the wheel kit. As far as the Pizza oven is concerned, I bought a kit online, here's the link, they've changed a little since I bought mine. I'm about to move it then insulate itwhich I should have done before I started using it. It makes the best Garlic / Bacon / Buttered potatoes I've ever had. shop.vitcas.com/large-brick-pizza-oven-vitcas-l.html
@@GTWoodshop Great! Thanks for the link. The warranty is over on mine now so from here on in it's up to me to fix anything. If you do find yourself having to remove the upper rear panel it's held in place by 9 self-tappers. 2 of them are total bastards! They are located just outboard of the cutter head near the drive roller sprockets. I found out today that they are best accessed with the tables up - whilst the other 7 are best accessed with the table down! with the machine parked as close to the wall as the manual recommends, there's barely room for a fat 'un like me to work on the damn thing! Got to laugh
Good to see someone finnaly criticizing this brand. This handle problem is not your fault. Contact surfaces should have obviously been bigger. That's all. Felder is not as good as they say. Look at how old machines are made and it is easy to see that nowadays everything is lighter, everything is thinner, everything gets wanky so much faster. But.... Prices are increasing ! ans quality drops...
Hi from Australia our Men's shed has a A26 due to space with a lot of the men with little experience using the machine some one has over tighten the lock handles putting the out feed bed out of parallel with the in feed bed also it ended up higher than the blades Our Felder dearler is down the road from us I went to see him to arrange for a tech to come and fix it he said all I need to do was to adjust the front bolts to level it up across the machine and To adjust the height to match the blade there is a cam type adjustment on the feed out end also there is a lock nut there you need a 20mm spanner to adjust the height like you do on the in feed side with those settings you can get the beds straight You don't need to touch any bolts at the back of the machine
I’ve had the A3-31 for about a year, and just rushed up to my workshop to check it’s ok, thankfully it’s fine, but I will take care locking the table down in future, thanks.
Thank you so much for this video. I have the a3-41 on order. I will definitely be checking the tables very carefully when the machine arrives and NOT over tightening! I think the company should strongly highlight that one should not over tighten! I wish felder or someone would make an retrofit cover that was articulated, maybe like a cable tray on a CNC, that could fall down behind the machine to lessen the footprint behind the machine. It’s an important consideration as many like you and me are choosing a combo machine because we have small shops.
I just saw a review on the felder verison of this combo machine and i thought remember seeing just that an articulating guard. I do not own a Hammer but do plan too. And i will see if that is an upgrade or maybe just a part that is hopefully interchangable between the machines. Not holding my breath but i am crossing my fingers.
@@gXXrGoNe Hammer did provide an articulating track type guard on the previous fence design, it’s great. They changed the design of the fence due to too many complaints about deflection by people who didn’t understand that the deflection did not affect the workpiece. I agree that it was nice to put the machine against a wall to save space. 13 years on my A3 is still running perfectly.
Exactly correct, it was a negative improvement to solve a non existent issue. I’m now on year 13 for my A3, bullet proof, accurate and reliable Talk to Felder and see if you can buy the caterpillar guard parts. I bought a second bridge guard to cut in half, I use it when I have the fence pulled forward.
Hi, very interesting review, I have the same machine and have some issues on the thicknesser feed, often needs a good push! I have also been a bit disappointed with backup. Thanks for your videos!
Hi Graham - better late than never, I’ve just watched your video which is really helpful - thank you. I have the Hammer A331 with spiral cutter and can honestly say it has transformed my home woodworking. Being able to re-size timber that you already have rather than buy more has worked really well. The only problem I began to have after 100’s of metres of use was snipe. After reference to Felder they recommended cleaning the beds with a ‘red’ scouring pad and WD40 and cleaning thoroughly. It worked an absolute treat. My only concern at the moment (having successfully tackling rotating the cutter heads) is whether I’m competent to undertake the re-greasing of the chain etc inside. Maybe one for a service engineer! Kind regards.
My experience over about 6 years of ownership is I don't lock the bed and I have never had a snipe problem. In fact I have always wondered why the lock is even there to tell the truth because it doesn't seem to do anything worth while and I have honestly never locked it at all from day one. I am in the process of putting an electric lift on it as I want to be able to enter a dimension and press G for go, there have been a few done some years ago but mine will be controlled via a touch screen and like you I am over the handle winding routine entirely. What I found astonishing and you may have simply forgotten to mention it is the accuracy and repeatability of the in handle measuring gauge. I have never had to re-calibrate it until we stripped the machine to install the lift motor and once set up again upon re-assembly it is now dead nuts on again. I find it far more accurate than digital of which I have used quite a few. All digital measurement systems have a resolution issue which affects their accuracy.
Hi Chris, I am surprised at your not having to lock the handle. Could it be possible the manufacturing tolerances on your unit are tighter than those on mine? For sure if I don't lock it then I will get snipe. I am really intrigued by the idea of a motor lift on the bed, the winding up and down drives me nuts. As to the guage, I agree it is absolutely bang on the money. Although I will go and check it again now, just to make sure. Thanks. 👍
@@GTWoodshop This is an older version of an electric lift but mine will only use a touch screen to control it. th-cam.com/video/RURrNQOddfA/w-d-xo.html I am using an outfeed extension table which might be the answer to the snipe issue and the reason I don't get any.
A true review, love it thanks... have had mine for about a year and love it as well... I'm concerned about the coplaner issue you discovered and have to be careful of that myself... the other issues seem like they're mostly due to your shop restraints with the exception of the locking wheel... they could definitely do a better job there... slightly different location...1/4 lock... something better As for your dust extraction issue you may want to evaluate your system...I was first using this with a jet canister 1.5 hp unit with a single 4" hose and it was 100% fine... since have my 5hp cyclone fully plumbed in the shop and still no issue... if you have some sort of cyclone in surprised to your issue so either you don't have enough power over the. Length of your system or some serious kinks along the way allowing stuff down Now I'm looking at the sander and enjoyed your review there too... we'll see! Happy new year
Hi KW, thanks for both vids. 👍 I am currently researching an upgrade / replacement to my extractor, It just doesn't have the power to cope with the upgraded equipment I have now. You just know that's another vid on the way. 😁👍
I did a lot of research on DC before my upgrade and found the clearvue to be the best bang for the buck however not sure if that available to you in the uk...I did get to see the felder units in person and they are quite nice but 2 things to mention there...1 obviously the cost... used works be better but very expensive...2 the footprint, looks like space is a big concern and they take up a lot of room... but they work well...1 other to check would be the Harvey gyro air... really interesting tech, supposedly works great, low profile and they run great sales (right now ny sale is good) felt it was slightly small for me (needed a bigger one which was too $) but might suit you well. I did learn a lot about plumbing and I would start there too get the most out of whatever you do... biggest main possible and least bends the best though... but unless you do it yourself with pvc can really add up...I did spiral and got a good price (half what others were asking) and it still cost me more to plumb than the collector was!
@@KWCabs Hi KW, good points all. I upgraded my main line a couple of years ago from 4" to 6" and straightened it, that made a difference as you say. The Felder DC are expensive, but not a lot of other choice in the UK that I've found yet. The Harvey unit you mention looks great but is too big for my workshop, and the collection bins are so small. I'll just keep looking for best bang for buck I suppose. 👍
Think about it. In order for the Jointer to work accurately the knives must be set to the out feed table height to a tolerance of two to three thou. But every time you lift those beds up and down you're drifting off with that critical adjustment. But it gets worse because in order for the thickness planer to feed and cut snipe free the blades have to be perfectly parallel to the bed otherwise you will not get even thickness across the width of the board. Most people never think to check this when milling and they wonder why their joints are off and there are shoulders to trim down all the time. To make matters worse you are making one set of blades do the work of two machines so they blunt far quicker and this increases the inaccuracies even more. Blunt knives are the kiss of death to jointer accuracy.
I am about to buy similar machine. I'm hesitating between Hammer A3-41 and Axminster that is 310mm wide. 410mm is nice to have but much more expensive. Axminster seems to be very similar construction. What are your thougts? Do you really use 410mm capacity often?
Hi Radek, I was initially going to buy the Axminster 310 but didn't like the idea of having to remove the fence every time I need to convert to thicknesser mode. The Hammer can cope with the Fence left in place which swung me over. The deal offered to upgrade to the 410 was a relatively small jump which I'm so glad I did. Its simplified life so many times I don't think I could cope without it now. 👍
I bought the a341. It arrived entirely out of spec in every way with winded twisted tables each with its own massive dip. The machine appeared to have been hastily assembled by children and there’s was zero support or response from felder even to this day. The dealer lacked any integrity and expected me to just have this machine in my shop for 4 to eight months while I waited for replacement tables that I would likely have to install myself. After an annoying battle the dealer allowed me to return the machine but at my expense. I will never buy anything felder again. I purchased the scm fs41e and I’ll never look back. It’s a wonderful machine. Ever since that experience I’ve noticed more and more talk of problems with these machines. Hopefully felder figures out there quality control.
Hi Michael, really sorry to hear about your experience. Its a shame that commercial growth seems to go hand in hand with a lack of common decency and integrity. Surely it should be 'Customer before Share Holder'?
If the castings were flawed then that was a serious defect. I have a 12 year old Hammer C3 31 combination machine which I purchased second hand a few years ago. I also have an N4400 bandsaw. Very happy with both these machines and for me they were a step up from china machines. Hammer I am told were developed for the weekend woodworker/diyer. The Felder are a step up and Format 4 a further step up. Anyway sorry to hear about your misfortune.
Thanks for the very useful information. In general these combination machines are so annoying that how crazy long time they take to change in between. especially as you said, if you've got one piece needed more planing. I have one of these and already selling it. Just getting two separate machines.
Hi Aj, I completely agree, up and down, up and down, it drives me mad. I'm lucky enough to have the little DeWalt as well so I can avoid some of it. I really wanted the Sedgewick but just couldn't afford it.
Absolutely right. And every time you lock it down you can't be sure it's bedding down exactly co planar. I have never used a combination machine that was reliably accurate.
Hi 718, its an aging Jet cyclone extractor. I should add that since making that vid I've discovered a few blast gates that were leaking quite badly which I've now fixed (removed), and that if I really make sure no other gates are open it manages ok, I'd really like a newer uprated model but as yet not a priority so will have to wait for a while. 👍
I had purchased the Felder Profil shaper and FD250 boring machine and when I needed a smaller table saw I have a neighbor who had the same Felder Hammer model. When I called Felder state side the customer service came back saying "you won't like it" and refused to sell me one. One other SCM model just was not in my budget range. I did not need a Felder saw in the 700 range.
Where I've bought this machine, Felder would absolutely make sure to tell me 10 times over that I need to check everything about the machine within the first week, and then again after a week of use. Also, as with any machine, you need to adjust / re-align your machine at least every 30 days of use anyway because they will get out of alignment. It's not a matter of cost of the machine...all machines need regular re-alignment. So you misaligned your tables by overtightening the mechanism (even in the video you overtighten the first handle) and then you try to fix that by re-aligning the back hinges? I would have re-aligned with the front 4 bolts, as they went out of alignment? Unless the machine was not properly set up to begin with? The locking handle on the height adjustment only needs a small turn to loosen enough for travel. Just tighten it modestly, then set it so that you have room to undo it. I never have to lift the handle to reposition, which makes unlocking, setting the height then locking a breeze. Don't even think about it anymore. And as you said, it helps the stability of the bed a lot, also by not tilting sideways when you plane something not dead in the middle. And yes, needing to run the bed up and down for changeover is it's biggest downfall. In quality, this machine surpasses the normal Hammer standard. I'd say it's Felder quality if correctly maintained. Also, I see you have the helical cutter head, which makes so much less noise than a straight blade, leaves a superior finish and is absolutely no work to 'set' / change the blades. I think that is the best feature about this machine, the cutterhead. It just needs a bit of work to keep everything aligned. And a serious straight edge saves you lots of time. I wouldn't bother with the other Hammer machines though. I've owned a couple of them and traded them for a Felder within a year. This A3-41 is the only piece of equipment I kept from the Hammer line.
Typical Felder lies. Most machinery that is genuine quality will only need a tweak every ten fifteen years or so. I dialled in my surface planer 25 years ago and have never had to redial it since. The only machine I have ongoing problems with is my Felder panel saw. 25 miserable year's of the damn thing. As soon as I can afford it I will trade the bastard in.
Regarding over-torquing the handles with new machine, reminds me when I had a new clothes washing machine and I couldn't get the front door open; so I eventually yanked on it. I broke it. Service guy had to come and fix it. When I have looked back on that I seem so stupid and impatient. Regarding the margin from your wall, I thought if you had a mobile base it were on, you could move it toward the wall when not in use; but the more I listened, it seems you use it a lot so that would be hassle as much as that other lever of incidence you were talking about. I am trying to decide between a Jet, Grizzly, CMI or Hammer for a 12" jointer and planer combo unit. Appreciate your honesty.
If minimizing footprint width is your primary concern and you will be content with 12" capacity for both functions, you might consider individual 12" machines, positioning the thicknesser immediately to the left of the jointer's outfeed table. I did this and enjoy the lack of change-over hassle, longer jointer tables, simultaneous dual functionality, as well as better reliability. When you allow for the extra width required by the jointer's front and rear guards, the overall footprint is hardly wider, depending on the machines you pair. Look into pricing of a decent 12" jointer and good 12" benchtop planer. The combined cost might tempt you. I have a 12" Rojek jointer with 8' bed and a Hitachi 12" thicknesser retrofitted with digital readout. I can't take the heavy thicknessing passes the Hammer can, but I am able to achieve the critical first flat face with absolute reliability, and then thickness to very accurate and repeatable glass-smooth finishes. I considered buying a massive Felder (rather than Hammer) but my need to process heavy timbers is infrequent, so this asymmetric pair of machines has proved to be a more efficient solution for me. Total cost and footprint are not as different as one might think. OP's strategic decision to keep the Dewalt thicknesser to augment the combo machine overcomes its primary shortcoming, but not all.
Hi Michael, that's an excellent point, and definitely something to consider should I ever change again, or get totally brassed off with this arrangement. I use the Dewalt as much as poss to avoid changing the setup on the Hammer, not perfect I know but its really quick and easy to use. Thanks for the top suggestion, I appreciate it. 👍
Bfols, the protrustions depend on where the fence is. If you pull the fence forward so the guard does not stick out as much, you could roll the machine back further. But the front blade guard will then be sticking out on the front side of the machine. My older A3-31 has an end-mount fence and an articulated, plastic blade guard on the back.
Hi Jurgen my extractor states the following on the label. 2150 m3/h 1872Pa, I know Felder make AF22W which is 3100M3/h and 2510Pa and according to the Sales guy is more than capable of handling the output. 👍
I doubt the 'damage' you caused put your tables out of alignment, it looks like nothing more than a 'rub' to me. I think I would either cut a bit off the locking handle or change it to a locking knob. Great and useful review (K)👍
With the domed bolts that indent the cast iron, can you not simply increase their height as the indentation occurs? As this happens, surface area will increase thus significantly reducing the chance of continuing to indent the cast.
You might be able to speed up the table raise and lowering by replacing the hand crank with a cordless drill. I have had a combination machine like this and much prefer separates, but if I had to have one for space reasons it would have powered table movement.
Hi Hugo, I don't get any snipe at all! The surface finish is excellent, especially when the blades are new, I need to turn mine so its a little less than perfect but still awesome. As for the Dust Extractor, if I close all of the other blast gates then it copes with the output. 👌
@@GTWoodshop You don't get snipe exactly because you have that option to lock the thicknesser bed! without it, the collumn might have some play which results in snipe..
Thank you for this review, I have had the same exact problem with my A3-41. I've had it since December and the initial calibration was very close to coplaner but I had only put a few boards throught it to check out it's operation and then let it site for a month or so while I put the finishing touches on a tilt top table. Now that I have the time to start another project I started milling up some rough sawn Walnut only to notice the I could not get an even cut from one end to the other. I put the straight edge on the top and sure enough I am not coplaner at all. I remember during my initial set up that I had to tighten the infeed locking handle down very securely to return to the previous setting, but like you I seem to have over tightened it and knocked it out of calibration. Your review will help me get it back in order, but that is going to cost me some time, and I am hoping my 36" straight edge will be enough.
Hi Cam, It's disappointing isn't it, I honestly expected better from Felder. The Engineer I spoke to said that you absolutely must have a 2mtr straight edge to re-calibrate the tables, he stated that you can't go by the middle / centre of tables as they may not be perfectly level / will not give a true reading. As mentioned in the Vid I used the best 6ft level I had, I'm now constantly suspicious and always checking. I 'll also just mention (again if I did say it in the video) when adjusting the screws / bolts to reset the table the slightest change should be re-checked, probably 1/8th to 1/4 turn. Let me know how you get on.
Sorry to hear another person has been ripped by Felder. I got screwed as well. They really don't deserve the reputation they have manufactured rather than built.
On my A3-31 I dont get snipe when in planer mode so I dont use the lock. I do have the short aluminum outfeed extension which might help eliminate snipe.
Thank You for explaining the hints of these machine. This days im thinking to buy this machine and inform me in advance. The most incomprehensible fact: Why Hammer use four round top screws at the front of the machine? If they use flat top screws you'll never get these imprints at the leveling surface. For me as an also educated metal worker absolutely not comprehensible. The other negatives you've shown: I think I can live with, especially looking at the price for this machine. Machines which don't have this hint shurely cost a multiple amount, ore do you know an alternative, maybe for a little bit more invest? The next weeks (depends on corona retrictions) I've a visit in a Felder showroom in the near. Awaiting the staffs reaction to my specialized questions ;-)
Hi Ideaprodukte, I chose Hammer / Felder as they've been making these machines for a long time. They must be doing something right to stay in business. I like not having to take the fence off to change modes. I like lifting the tables together and I thought the price was reasonable. I believe them to be a solid trustworthy company to deal with. Hope your visit goes well. Kind Regards 👍
@@GTWoodshop See it like you. I'll give response after my visit in the showroom. It can take some time: In Germany we've strong corona regulations at this time ;-(
I'd think the round-top screws give a more consistent reference point as you make any adjustments. It probably would help to increase the spacing between the two. It isn't clear to me if the alignment due to over-tightening is from the dimpling of soft metal or something else.
Hello and congratulations for the review! I have the A3-31 with Silent Power, but I wouldn't buy it again even if it were free .... the main problem is the coplanar adjustment and the cam lock system, as you have rightly pointed out.
Hi Graham, Great review - I am have been considering one of these as a step up from my Record PT260 for the last two years. and bitten the bullet and ordered an A3-31, but I am still struggling to as to whether or not I should have gone for the larger 41 instead - I dont want to regret it as I wont be buying another one so I have a small window of opportunity to change in if I want to! so What made you choose the 41? looking at your videos, my workshop is similar in size, did you look at a3-31 at all or did you just use ‘boy logic’ and bought the biggest one? 😉
Hi Rob, great question. Like you I ordered the A3-31, as there was a demo unit on special so I bit the bullet after mulling it over that evening. The following morning I rang to place the order only to find someone had beat me to it. So I cogitated for a while and discussed it thouroghly with my wife. We decided to increase to the 410mm as the extra width allows us to run the wide butchers blocks that we make through the planer as opposed to the drum sander. The resultant time saving is fantastic. In my opinion if you have the chance and can afford it then don't hesitate Rob, but be aware of the extra room required, the tables are a bit longer (again fantastic) its got quite the footprint. Hope that helps. 👍
Glad to see you got it adjusted, i haven't had that issue on my A3-31, but i just nip them tight, i hear you in regards to the table lock, its is annoying. Hammer and Felder offer layout documents that over all the required space, i reviewed these to see if i could fit the larger K3 Comfort in my workshop i ended up using a Felder AF16 dust extractor, as i knew it could handle the load required by my planer, and i could also connect a 80mm fitting for the blade guard. Even if there are a few design issues with the various hammer machines, i've found that they they are accurate, when set up, parts are easy to get to reduce down time. I am qualified cabinetmaker, and have used more pricey machines in commercial settings, but at these price levels, you get a damm good product. I just need to get the ceramic guides for my N4400 and i'll be happy with it.
Hi Bryn, wow, (qualified cabinetmaker) respect Sir, I'm just a chippy with ideas of grandeur! 😁 I couldn't agree more re Felder. I also believe they're a damn good purchase. In all my years of wood butchery I've yet to find a perfect anything, but Felder get close, so close that I have another of their machines on the way. Vid shortly after, obviously. 👍😁
@@GTWoodshop we all have ideas of grandeur and we all butcher differently 😂 beauty is the eye of the beholder. As for felder, they do make a fine machine, I’ll never wear my current machines out as it’s just me using them. Decent machinery just makes life a lot easier, I remember mucking around wasting time aligning the cutter blades, I just love running timber through the spiral cutter. Looking forwards to your next review on the next mystery machine.
Planers have to fine tuned, that's normal ( as You have to with hand planers as well ) , some machines may fit spot on some not , this is not the Martin or Hoffmann league. Every standard machine has to fine tuned in front of working. The cheap ones often more. Get what You paid for, this is low end budget Item. You see the Ikea idea "customers do the main work ". But the experiences will be different it's a game of luck. I know brand new Altendorf Format Saws which make trouble. May be you have tune constantly. Good Luck
Sounds like Felder should consider hardened wear plates in those four areas. That would be a simple fix in manufacturing. More difficult to retro fit and realign the table.
@@GTWoodshop Thinking about it more. Try buying some tool steel, Air hardened, (easier) Maybe .125 thick and the same width as those shoulder areas. Drill through those plates you make into into the machine (carefully) and then tap the holes. Fixing your own wear plates to those problem areas. You could possibly temper the tool steel with a propane torch. Definitely with Oxy/acy. After that just lower the stop bolts by the thickness of your added steel plate. Be some more "niggling"of course but I think it would never happen again as long as you used good steel and they stayed in place .
@@GTWoodshop If the load on the heads of the dome nuts wasn't such a fine point it would make a big difference, I also understand why the dome top is used but a hardened plate inserted into the cast would be a good long term fix. Maybe there should be a big warning in the manual about the force or better the lack required to secure the top locks. Thanks for the candid review, I am sure there are many more users out in this world that have been through the same experience or at least now may have an idea of what they are also experiencing. I have always wanted one of these and this just gives more info for the consideration. Many thanks again
Thank you for this interesting video, I was considering buying this model, mmmm I’m now thinking should I look at other alternatives. Something to ponder on..
Must say I'm kind off getting cold on buying one (a3-31). From an engineering point of view it's extremely bad design not to take into consideration that one material will get indentations. I'd almost claim it not fit for purpose. Having to modify it yourself with hardended steel or the like, which will most probably work, just isn't right at this price point. Also - extremely dissapointing customer service. I expected this machine to be way better but I actually find many reviews now like yours. I hope it still works for you - thanks for sharing.
I bought an A1 31 four years ago. The locking mechanism does not utilize the plate format shown in the video, rather it has rectangular holes in a piece of hardened steel that accepts a steel insert attached to the handles that moves towards the table when tightened. Works fine for me, BTW, I also bought a Hammer k3 saw, had an issue or two upon delivery which required a service call. The Tech drove from Dallas to Houston within a few days of my call, took care of my problems and spent additional time tuning up the saw, fences etc. I couldn't have been more happy with the service. Both machines have been in my shop for four years, no issues whatsoever, cuts are clean crisp and dead on. I know the manual for the jointer planer was very clear about not using the tables to lift the machine off the pallets, perhaps that may have been an issue.
@@edstengel2495 Hi Ed, thanks for the info, very reassuring, nice to hear good things from another owner. I've been in contact with them and am getting things sorted, and then some. Don't want to say too much yet as there will be a follow up vid coming soon.
The calibration method used to get these tables coplanar is a joke and a big mistake imo. Using those four domed bolts with gigantic thread pitch (1.75mm/thread I think) is just utter rubbish. There’s so much slack in the threads when you loosen them to adjust tables that after you tediously get the tables as good as possible they’re then thrown out of whack a good deal when you tighten the nuts which takes up the slack. That looooong lever from those domed nuts to the ends of the tables means the slightest change at those nuts totally throws the tables out of whack. I spent 3 full days trying to calibrate mine, literally almost 30hours (during my summer vacation last year). Only to give up. The outfeed table had a valley that measured 0.012” which is way too much for decent results especially at this price. So I gave up and “upgraded” to a felder ad741. The ad741 works really well though, so I now have a bitter sweet feeling towards felder. The ad741 uses the same dome nuts though. So I pray I never need to adjust the tables. They are at least flatter, max 0.003” deviation from memory, so maybe calibrating will be easier? Anyway, if you or anyone ever ends up with a hammer A3 they def put it through its paces and check it for calibration straight away and before you take delivery make felder agree to a refund if the machine isn’t calibrated properly.
None of these planers go tight up against the wall. Even if they do, eventually you'll have to get into the machine to grease the motor or change/tighten the belts. Fact of life sadly.
Mine has had significant use for 13 years with no loss of calibration. I’ve never used the locking handle and have zero snipe, feed rollers need adjusting if you have snipe Remember to lubricate the cast iron tables, I always used paste wax however I’ve now switched to Felder Silber Gleit
I really do not get it. Why would you buy the machine if you did not like the idea of having to switch modes. Seems as if in your case you made a poor choice. As far as the guard sticking out the back that is clear in the literature. With the mobility kit you can move the fence forward and move the machine against the wall when not in use.
HI Paul, I was merely trying to point out the items that I felt people should know about if considering this machine. Regarding switching modes, I really do dislike having to do it but I could not afford a machine without mode switching and a spiral head, after much research and consideration I choose this one. You're dead right about being able to move the machine back against the wall. My apologies if my comments upset or annoyed you, that was not my intention.
@@GTWoodshop Not upset or annoyed. Thank you for your response. Enjoy. At the time I bought my A3-31 12 inch I did not have room for the A3-41....you have a really great machine there. Enjoy.
I am in the same boat. I don't think you realize how much of a pain it is to switch back and forth between modes. If everything is planned out and everything works the first time, theoretically you can get away with 1 swap over per project. In my experience, I have to perform the swap over 4-5 times per project. It is a huge pain in the butt. So much so that I am considering selling mine and replacing it with separate units.
1) but what about 1 meter from the wall according to fire regulations, eh? gentlemen 2) eccentric handle, what did you expect to see there? and what is the inconvenience? 2 times to flip the handle 2 times a day? quibble 3) they answered their own question, there was no need to tighten the handles hard
Der Kundendienst von Felder / Hammer ist in Frankreich sehr schlecht. Ich warte schon seit 6 Monaten auf den Austausch des Wellenschutzes von meiner neuen A3-31. Es gleitet nur mit einer Kraft von ca.14 NM (12/13 kg)!!! Die Antriebsriemenscheibe des Motors wurde bei den ersten Gebrauch aus-geschraubt und Blockieren der Motor und die Maschine!!! Die Ecken des Hartmetalls der Spiral Welle brechen leicht ab beim kleinsten Ast auch im Weichholz.
Wow, that's sounds really quite poor, sounds like you've had a really disappointing experience. It really shouldn't be like that in this age of instant communications.
Hello, i was looking at this model and the overhang at the back was one of the reasons why i ended up going with the Axminster version. you said in your review the Axminster one the fence fits on the back, in theory you are correct but i took the fence hangers off the machine and fixed them to my workshop wall. the one thing i did do was to put some protection (Draught excluder) on the hangers to stop the two metals clinking together.
Having the coplaner issue can be looked at as a great lesson. The more you need to tweak the more you understand the machine and the better you get at tuning it. Any machine is going to need adjustment over the years and to keep it performing like day one on decade one will depend on your knowledge and experience with keeping is working perfectly.
I beg to differ. The reason Felder has such a poor reputation with pro woodworker's is because they never stay in adjustment. Their bed castings are not seasoned properly and are rarely perfectly flat. They rely heavily on jack screws that are held up by sheet metal and simply cannot hold dial in reliably.
It's bad engineering full stop.
It's IKEA machinery.
Thank you very much for this video. It is very informative. I find the constructive criticism you have very positive. You helped me a lot with my decision. I will buy the A3-41. Thank you and best regards from Germany. (Unfortunately my English is not so perfect, so I had to use the google translator).
Hi Bjorn, thank you very much, glad it was helpful to you. I have a feeling that your english is better than my German. 😁👍
I have an A3 31 which I find excellent, particularly the spiral cutter. Useful to be aware of the potential problem if the planer bed is overtightened. Thank you.
The spiral head is quite a game changer isn't it. 👍
Hi Graham, thanks for the 2nd review - happy to hear I did the right thing to press the order button. I will be careful about over-tightening, thanks for the warning.
Hi Thomas, No worries.
Excellent review!
I bought one of these in November 2019. It arrived in January 2020 and shortly afterwards we went into lockdown, (New Zealand). When I finally got a sparky to install a 15A socket and replace the 1m factory lead with a longer one - the motor wouldn't work!
The technician came out and said it needed a new motor. That took another 10 weeks, from the factory in Austria and installation.
I haven't used my machine as much as expected due to work commitments but I'd give it an 8/10.
The only issue apart from the motor is the feed roller drive. There is a chain that connects a driven gear near the bottom at the back with the two feed roller sprockets. It doesn't work properly - the feed is erratic, punctuated with little pauses. This leaves an imperfect finish on the material. I had a look by removing the back cover and upper panel and was surprised to see a bicycle chain on the roller mechanism and a single belt driving the cutter head! Anyway, this chain was slack due to the fact that the tensioner was activated by a crappy little spring which doesn't apply enough force. I pushed the tensioner arm back into position to take up the slack.
I was using it again today and had the same problem. This time I found that the tensioner arm pivots around a bolt, with the nut accessible from the inside of the machine by the rise/fall table.
I've tightened it up to stop the tensioner moving out of place and that seems to work.
Just a couple of things from your previous 'first impressions' video.
When you press the start button, keep it pressed until the machine reaches full rpm. Apparently something 'burns out' if you don't do that
Your machine seems to have rubber feet. Did it come with those.
I noticed a pizza oven through the window! Would you do a 5 minute vid on how you made it?
Cheers
Hi Ultramontane. Wow, You got patience. I would have been screaming after all that. Just goes to prove no machine is perfect. But the one huge benifit is that when you gotta fix it, you really start to understand it. The feet where on mine when I got it, I just fitted the wheel kit. As far as the Pizza oven is concerned, I bought a kit online, here's the link, they've changed a little since I bought mine. I'm about to move it then insulate itwhich I should have done before I started using it. It makes the best Garlic / Bacon / Buttered potatoes I've ever had. shop.vitcas.com/large-brick-pizza-oven-vitcas-l.html
@@GTWoodshop Great! Thanks for the link.
The warranty is over on mine now so from here on in it's up to me to fix anything. If you do find yourself having to remove the upper rear panel it's held in place by 9 self-tappers. 2 of them are total bastards! They are located just outboard of the cutter head near the drive roller sprockets. I found out today that they are best accessed with the tables up - whilst the other 7 are best accessed with the table down!
with the machine parked as close to the wall as the manual recommends, there's barely room for a fat 'un like me to work on the damn thing! Got to laugh
I always tell myself I'll work of my large lunch this afternoon. 🤣 (Never happens)
Good to see someone finnaly criticizing this brand. This handle problem is not your fault. Contact surfaces should have obviously been bigger. That's all. Felder is not as good as they say. Look at how old machines are made and it is easy to see that nowadays everything is lighter, everything is thinner, everything gets wanky so much faster. But.... Prices are increasing ! ans quality drops...
Hi from Australia our Men's shed has a A26 due to space with a lot of the men with little experience using the machine some one has over tighten the lock handles putting the out feed bed out of parallel with the in feed bed also it ended up higher than the blades Our Felder dearler is down the road from us I went to see him to arrange for a tech to come and fix it he said all I need to do was to adjust the front bolts to level it up across the machine and To adjust the height to match the blade there is a cam type adjustment on the feed out end also there is a lock nut there you need a 20mm spanner to adjust the height like you do on the in feed side with those settings you can get the beds straight You don't need to touch any bolts at the back of the machine
I’ve had the A3-31 for about a year, and just rushed up to my workshop to check it’s ok, thankfully it’s fine, but I will take care locking the table down in future, thanks.
Hi Adam, thank you.👍
Thank you so much for this video. I have the a3-41 on order. I will definitely be checking the tables very carefully when the machine arrives and NOT over tightening! I think the company should strongly highlight that one should not over tighten! I wish felder or someone would make an retrofit cover that was articulated, maybe like a cable tray on a CNC, that could fall down behind the machine to lessen the footprint behind the machine. It’s an important consideration as many like you and me are choosing a combo machine because we have small shops.
Hi Stewart, glad the vid will help you to avoid the mistake I've made. DO Check those tables, they apparently settle after the machine is sited.👍
I just saw a review on the felder verison of this combo machine and i thought remember seeing just that an articulating guard. I do not own a Hammer but do plan too. And i will see if that is an upgrade or maybe just a part that is hopefully interchangable between the machines. Not holding my breath but i am crossing my fingers.
@@gXXrGoNe Hammer did provide an articulating track type guard on the previous fence design, it’s great. They changed the design of the fence due to too many complaints about deflection by people who didn’t understand that the deflection did not affect the workpiece.
I agree that it was nice to put the machine against a wall to save space. 13 years on my A3 is still running perfectly.
Exactly correct, it was a negative improvement to solve a non existent issue.
I’m now on year 13 for my A3, bullet proof, accurate and reliable
Talk to Felder and see if you can buy the caterpillar guard parts.
I bought a second bridge guard to cut in half, I use it when I have the fence pulled forward.
Hi, very interesting review, I have the same machine and have some issues on the thicknesser feed, often needs a good push! I have also been a bit disappointed with backup. Thanks for your videos!
Hi Hal, thank you. The general feel I'm getting from people is just short of happy. 😢
Really appreciate the effort put into this review. Hugely helpful.
Hi Michael, thank you. 👍
Hi Graham - better late than never, I’ve just watched your video which is really helpful - thank you. I have the Hammer A331 with spiral cutter and can honestly say it has transformed my home woodworking. Being able to re-size timber that you already have rather than buy more has worked really well. The only problem I began to have after 100’s of metres of use was snipe. After reference to Felder they recommended cleaning the beds with a ‘red’ scouring pad and WD40 and cleaning thoroughly. It worked an absolute treat. My only concern at the moment (having successfully tackling rotating the cutter heads) is whether I’m competent to undertake the re-greasing of the chain etc inside. Maybe one for a service engineer! Kind regards.
Hi Martin, glad to hear you're pleased with your purchase, the spiral head is a game changer. 👍
Thanks for a very informative video. I'm in the process of finding a similar machine that fits my needs.
Hi Peter, you're most welcome. Thank you.
My experience over about 6 years of ownership is I don't lock the bed and I have never had a snipe problem. In fact I have always wondered why the lock is even there to tell the truth because it doesn't seem to do anything worth while and I have honestly never locked it at all from day one. I am in the process of putting an electric lift on it as I want to be able to enter a dimension and press G for go, there have been a few done some years ago but mine will be controlled via a touch screen and like you I am over the handle winding routine entirely. What I found astonishing and you may have simply forgotten to mention it is the accuracy and repeatability of the in handle measuring gauge. I have never had to re-calibrate it until we stripped the machine to install the lift motor and once set up again upon re-assembly it is now dead nuts on again. I find it far more accurate than digital of which I have used quite a few. All digital measurement systems have a resolution issue which affects their accuracy.
Hi Chris, I am surprised at your not having to lock the handle. Could it be possible the manufacturing tolerances on your unit are tighter than those on mine? For sure if I don't lock it then I will get snipe. I am really intrigued by the idea of a motor lift on the bed, the winding up and down drives me nuts. As to the guage, I agree it is absolutely bang on the money. Although I will go and check it again now, just to make sure. Thanks. 👍
@@GTWoodshop This is an older version of an electric lift but mine will only use a touch screen to control it. th-cam.com/video/RURrNQOddfA/w-d-xo.html
I am using an outfeed extension table which might be the answer to the snipe issue and the reason I don't get any.
@@duster8100 Thanks Chris. 👍
A true review, love it thanks... have had mine for about a year and love it as well... I'm concerned about the coplaner issue you discovered and have to be careful of that myself... the other issues seem like they're mostly due to your shop restraints with the exception of the locking wheel... they could definitely do a better job there... slightly different location...1/4 lock... something better
As for your dust extraction issue you may want to evaluate your system...I was first using this with a jet canister 1.5 hp unit with a single 4" hose and it was 100% fine... since have my 5hp cyclone fully plumbed in the shop and still no issue... if you have some sort of cyclone in surprised to your issue so either you don't have enough power over the. Length of your system or some serious kinks along the way allowing stuff down
Now I'm looking at the sander and enjoyed your review there too... we'll see! Happy new year
Hi KW, thanks for both vids. 👍 I am currently researching an upgrade / replacement to my extractor, It just doesn't have the power to cope with the upgraded equipment I have now. You just know that's another vid on the way. 😁👍
I did a lot of research on DC before my upgrade and found the clearvue to be the best bang for the buck however not sure if that available to you in the uk...I did get to see the felder units in person and they are quite nice but 2 things to mention there...1 obviously the cost... used works be better but very expensive...2 the footprint, looks like space is a big concern and they take up a lot of room... but they work well...1 other to check would be the Harvey gyro air... really interesting tech, supposedly works great, low profile and they run great sales (right now ny sale is good) felt it was slightly small for me (needed a bigger one which was too $) but might suit you well.
I did learn a lot about plumbing and I would start there too get the most out of whatever you do... biggest main possible and least bends the best though... but unless you do it yourself with pvc can really add up...I did spiral and got a good price (half what others were asking) and it still cost me more to plumb than the collector was!
@@KWCabs Hi KW, good points all. I upgraded my main line a couple of years ago from 4" to 6" and straightened it, that made a difference as you say. The Felder DC are expensive, but not a lot of other choice in the UK that I've found yet. The Harvey unit you mention looks great but is too big for my workshop, and the collection bins are so small. I'll just keep looking for best bang for buck I suppose. 👍
Think about it. In order for the Jointer to work accurately the knives must be set to the out feed table height to a tolerance of two to three thou. But every time you lift those beds up and down you're drifting off with that critical adjustment.
But it gets worse because in order for the thickness planer to feed and cut snipe free the blades have to be perfectly parallel to the bed otherwise you will not get even thickness across the width of the board.
Most people never think to check this when milling and they wonder why their joints are off and there are shoulders to trim down all the time. To make matters worse you are making one set of blades do the work of two machines so they blunt far quicker and this increases the inaccuracies even more. Blunt knives are the kiss of death to jointer accuracy.
I am about to buy similar machine. I'm hesitating between Hammer A3-41 and Axminster that is 310mm wide. 410mm is nice to have but much more expensive. Axminster seems to be very similar construction. What are your thougts? Do you really use 410mm capacity often?
Hi Radek, I was initially going to buy the Axminster 310 but didn't like the idea of having to remove the fence every time I need to convert to thicknesser mode. The Hammer can cope with the Fence left in place which swung me over. The deal offered to upgrade to the 410 was a relatively small jump which I'm so glad I did. Its simplified life so many times I don't think I could cope without it now. 👍
@@GTWoodshop Thank you so much. Appreciate you took the time to answer. It's very helpful.
Hi, I own a A26 and use a Record Power CamVac. Works really well! Get the one with bags, it has not much Volume...
Hi Johnny, I've looked at the CamVac loads but never purchased, thanks for the Tip. 👍
Taking off 2,5mm from a 180mm wide oak board was no problem. I have the one with 2 motors and 35 liters volume. It is full very fast.
@@Johnny-yo4uh Thanks Johnny, I'll check it out. 👌
I bought the a341. It arrived entirely out of spec in every way with winded twisted tables each with its own massive dip. The machine appeared to have been hastily assembled by children and there’s was zero support or response from felder even to this day. The dealer lacked any integrity and expected me to just have this machine in my shop for 4 to eight months while I waited for replacement tables that I would likely have to install myself. After an annoying battle the dealer allowed me to return the machine but at my expense. I will never buy anything felder again. I purchased the scm fs41e and I’ll never look back. It’s a wonderful machine. Ever since that experience I’ve noticed more and more talk of problems with these machines. Hopefully felder figures out there quality control.
Hi Michael, really sorry to hear about your experience. Its a shame that commercial growth seems to go hand in hand with a lack of common decency and integrity. Surely it should be 'Customer before Share Holder'?
If the castings were flawed then that was a serious defect. I have a 12 year old Hammer C3 31 combination machine which I purchased second hand a few years ago. I also have an N4400 bandsaw.
Very happy with both these machines and for me they were a step up from china machines.
Hammer I am told were developed for the weekend woodworker/diyer. The Felder are a step up and Format 4 a further step up.
Anyway sorry to hear about your misfortune.
Your not the first or last to realise Felder is a shonky company.
Thanks for the very useful information. In general these combination machines are so annoying that how crazy long time they take to change in between. especially as you said, if you've got one piece needed more planing. I have one of these and already selling it. Just getting two separate machines.
Hi Aj, I completely agree, up and down, up and down, it drives me mad. I'm lucky enough to have the little DeWalt as well so I can avoid some of it. I really wanted the Sedgewick but just couldn't afford it.
Absolutely right. And every time you lock it down you can't be sure it's bedding down exactly co planar.
I have never used a combination machine that was reliably accurate.
I'm over 55, and on ALL my heavy pieces I welded on heavy duty castors. My sore back loves me for it.
Damn good idea Robert. 👍
Hello Graham - you mentioned your dust collector was not enough to handle the volume of dust. What type of dust collector do you own?
Hi 718, its an aging Jet cyclone extractor. I should add that since making that vid I've discovered a few blast gates that were leaking quite badly which I've now fixed (removed), and that if I really make sure no other gates are open it manages ok, I'd really like a newer uprated model but as yet not a priority so will have to wait for a while. 👍
I had purchased the Felder Profil shaper and FD250 boring machine and when I needed a smaller table saw I have a neighbor who had the
same Felder Hammer model. When I called Felder state side the customer service came back
saying "you won't like it" and refused to sell me one. One other SCM model just was not in my
budget range. I did not need a Felder saw in the 700 range.
Where I've bought this machine, Felder would absolutely make sure to tell me 10 times over that I need to check everything about the machine within the first week, and then again after a week of use. Also, as with any machine, you need to adjust / re-align your machine at least every 30 days of use anyway because they will get out of alignment. It's not a matter of cost of the machine...all machines need regular re-alignment.
So you misaligned your tables by overtightening the mechanism (even in the video you overtighten the first handle) and then you try to fix that by re-aligning the back hinges? I would have re-aligned with the front 4 bolts, as they went out of alignment? Unless the machine was not properly set up to begin with?
The locking handle on the height adjustment only needs a small turn to loosen enough for travel. Just tighten it modestly, then set it so that you have room to undo it. I never have to lift the handle to reposition, which makes unlocking, setting the height then locking a breeze. Don't even think about it anymore. And as you said, it helps the stability of the bed a lot, also by not tilting sideways when you plane something not dead in the middle.
And yes, needing to run the bed up and down for changeover is it's biggest downfall. In quality, this machine surpasses the normal Hammer standard. I'd say it's Felder quality if correctly maintained. Also, I see you have the helical cutter head, which makes so much less noise than a straight blade, leaves a superior finish and is absolutely no work to 'set' / change the blades. I think that is the best feature about this machine, the cutterhead. It just needs a bit of work to keep everything aligned. And a serious straight edge saves you lots of time. I wouldn't bother with the other Hammer machines though. I've owned a couple of them and traded them for a Felder within a year. This A3-41 is the only piece of equipment I kept from the Hammer line.
Hi Dave, good points all, thank you. 👍
Typical Felder lies. Most machinery that is genuine quality will only need a tweak every ten fifteen years or so. I dialled in my surface planer 25 years ago and have never had to redial it since.
The only machine I have ongoing problems with is my Felder panel saw. 25 miserable year's of the damn thing. As soon as I can afford it I will trade the bastard in.
Great video. Thanks for sharing this info.
Thanks - I'm never buying a Hammer! was thinking but no way now...
Really enjoyed your approach and manner - more please!
Hi Rob and Sharon, thank you. 👍😎
Regarding over-torquing the handles with new machine, reminds me when I had a new clothes washing machine and I couldn't get the front door open; so I eventually yanked on it. I broke it. Service guy had to come and fix it. When I have looked back on that I seem so stupid and impatient. Regarding the margin from your wall, I thought if you had a mobile base it were on, you could move it toward the wall when not in use; but the more I listened, it seems you use it a lot so that would be hassle as much as that other lever of incidence you were talking about. I am trying to decide between a Jet, Grizzly, CMI or Hammer for a 12" jointer and planer combo unit. Appreciate your honesty.
Hi Bfols, thank you, best of luck narrowing down your choices, it can be difficult sometimes.👍
If minimizing footprint width is your primary concern and you will be content with 12" capacity for both functions, you might consider individual 12" machines, positioning the thicknesser immediately to the left of the jointer's outfeed table. I did this and enjoy the lack of change-over hassle, longer jointer tables, simultaneous dual functionality, as well as better reliability. When you allow for the extra width required by the jointer's front and rear guards, the overall footprint is hardly wider, depending on the machines you pair. Look into pricing of a decent 12" jointer and good 12" benchtop planer. The combined cost might tempt you. I have a 12" Rojek jointer with 8' bed and a Hitachi 12" thicknesser retrofitted with digital readout. I can't take the heavy thicknessing passes the Hammer can, but I am able to achieve the critical first flat face with absolute reliability, and then thickness to very accurate and repeatable glass-smooth finishes. I considered buying a massive Felder (rather than Hammer) but my need to process heavy timbers is infrequent, so this asymmetric pair of machines has proved to be a more efficient solution for me. Total cost and footprint are not as different as one might think. OP's strategic decision to keep the Dewalt thicknesser to augment the combo machine overcomes its primary shortcoming, but not all.
Hi Michael, that's an excellent point, and definitely something to consider should I ever change again, or get totally brassed off with this arrangement. I use the Dewalt as much as poss to avoid changing the setup on the Hammer, not perfect I know but its really quick and easy to use. Thanks for the top suggestion, I appreciate it. 👍
Bfols, the protrustions depend on where the fence is. If you pull the fence forward so the guard does not stick out as much, you could roll the machine back further. But the front blade guard will then be sticking out on the front side of the machine. My older A3-31 has an end-mount fence and an articulated, plastic blade guard on the back.
@@biedawo Its a give with one hand whilst it takes with the other. 😢😁
Hammer should put click stop torque tightening handles on the front of the table.
That would make it much easier to set after changing modes.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Do you know how much throughput your extractor has or can you give a recommendation for a suitable throughput?
Hi Jurgen my extractor states the following on the label. 2150 m3/h 1872Pa, I know Felder make AF22W which is 3100M3/h and 2510Pa and according to the Sales guy is more than capable of handling the output. 👍
@@GTWoodshop thank you for the info, thats great. Just ordering a 31 and need an extractor with it
@@drsuppan I'm hoping to order the AF22 soon myself. Happing Planing. 👍
I doubt the 'damage' you caused put your tables out of alignment, it looks like nothing more than a 'rub' to me. I think I would either cut a bit off the locking handle or change it to a locking knob. Great and useful review (K)👍
Thanks EK. 👍
With the domed bolts that indent the cast iron, can you not simply increase their height as the indentation occurs? As this happens, surface area will increase thus significantly reducing the chance of continuing to indent the cast.
Hi Rich, damn good point. 👍
You might be able to speed up the table raise and lowering by replacing the hand crank with a cordless drill. I have had a combination machine like this and much prefer separates, but if I had to have one for space reasons it would have powered table movement.
HI Kevin, not a bad idea. Hmm. 👍😁
I’d like to hear about snipe, surface finish, and your experience in dealing with the dust extractor issue you cited.
Hi Hugo, I don't get any snipe at all! The surface finish is excellent, especially when the blades are new, I need to turn mine so its a little less than perfect but still awesome. As for the Dust Extractor, if I close all of the other blast gates then it copes with the output. 👌
@@GTWoodshop You don't get snipe exactly because you have that option to lock the thicknesser bed! without it, the collumn might have some play which results in snipe..
Thank you for this review, I have had the same exact problem with my A3-41. I've had it since December and the initial calibration was very close to coplaner but I had only put a few boards throught it to check out it's operation and then let it site for a month or so while I put the finishing touches on a tilt top table. Now that I have the time to start another project I started milling up some rough sawn Walnut only to notice the I could not get an even cut from one end to the other. I put the straight edge on the top and sure enough I am not coplaner at all. I remember during my initial set up that I had to tighten the infeed locking handle down very securely to return to the previous setting, but like you I seem to have over tightened it and knocked it out of calibration. Your review will help me get it back in order, but that is going to cost me some time, and I am hoping my 36" straight edge will be enough.
Hi Cam, It's disappointing isn't it, I honestly expected better from Felder. The Engineer I spoke to said that you absolutely must have a 2mtr straight edge to re-calibrate the tables, he stated that you can't go by the middle / centre of tables as they may not be perfectly level / will not give a true reading. As mentioned in the Vid I used the best 6ft level I had, I'm now constantly suspicious and always checking.
I 'll also just mention (again if I did say it in the video) when adjusting the screws / bolts to reset the table the slightest change should be re-checked, probably 1/8th to 1/4 turn. Let me know how you get on.
Sorry to hear another person has been ripped by Felder. I got screwed as well. They really don't deserve the reputation they have manufactured rather than built.
On my A3-31 I dont get snipe when in planer mode so I dont use the lock. I do have the short aluminum outfeed extension which might help eliminate snipe.
Hi Mark, I have been thinking about the ext table so that's good to know. Thanks. 👍
Very helpful review!
Thank You for explaining the hints of these machine. This days im thinking to buy this machine and inform me in advance. The most incomprehensible fact: Why Hammer use four round top screws at the front of the machine? If they use flat top screws you'll never get these imprints at the leveling surface. For me as an also educated metal worker absolutely not comprehensible.
The other negatives you've shown: I think I can live with, especially looking at the price for this machine. Machines which don't have this hint shurely cost a multiple amount, ore do you know an alternative, maybe for a little bit more invest?
The next weeks (depends on corona retrictions) I've a visit in a Felder showroom in the near. Awaiting the staffs reaction to my specialized questions ;-)
Hi Ideaprodukte, I chose Hammer / Felder as they've been making these machines for a long time. They must be doing something right to stay in business. I like not having to take the fence off to change modes. I like lifting the tables together and I thought the price was reasonable. I believe them to be a solid trustworthy company to deal with. Hope your visit goes well. Kind Regards 👍
@@GTWoodshop See it like you. I'll give response after my visit in the showroom. It can take some time: In Germany we've strong corona regulations at this time ;-(
I'd think the round-top screws give a more consistent reference point as you make any adjustments. It probably would help to increase the spacing between the two. It isn't clear to me if the alignment due to over-tightening is from the dimpling of soft metal or something else.
Hello and congratulations for the review! I have the A3-31 with Silent Power, but I wouldn't buy it again even if it were free .... the main problem is the coplanar adjustment and the cam lock system, as you have rightly pointed out.
I'm looking for a jointer, I see Hammer isn't one I'll consider. Do you have a brand you would suggest?
Nice little carpentry👍 best regards from bavaria
Hi Bavaria, thank you. 👍
Hi Graham, Great review - I am have been considering one of these as a step up from my Record PT260 for the last two years. and bitten the bullet and ordered an A3-31, but I am still struggling to as to whether or not I should have gone for the larger 41 instead - I dont want to regret it as I wont be buying another one so I have a small window of opportunity to change in if I want to! so What made you choose the 41? looking at your videos, my workshop is similar in size, did you look at a3-31 at all or did you just use ‘boy logic’ and bought the biggest one? 😉
Hi Rob, great question. Like you I ordered the A3-31, as there was a demo unit on special so I bit the bullet after mulling it over that evening. The following morning I rang to place the order only to find someone had beat me to it. So I cogitated for a while and discussed it thouroghly with my wife. We decided to increase to the 410mm as the extra width allows us to run the wide butchers blocks that we make through the planer as opposed to the drum sander. The resultant time saving is fantastic. In my opinion if you have the chance and can afford it then don't hesitate Rob, but be aware of the extra room required, the tables are a bit longer (again fantastic) its got quite the footprint. Hope that helps. 👍
Flat top adjusting bolts instead of domed would solve the problem surely?
Brian, that certainly sounds like a step in the right direction.
Hi I have been looking at these ,What was the price?
Hi Russell, If memory serves it was 4.2k excluding delivery.
Can anyone suggest a model that competes with the Hammer or exceeds it in terms of setup of the tables, adjustments?
SCM Minimax
Glad to see you got it adjusted, i haven't had that issue on my A3-31, but i just nip them tight, i hear you in regards to the table lock, its is annoying.
Hammer and Felder offer layout documents that over all the required space, i reviewed these to see if i could fit the larger K3 Comfort in my workshop
i ended up using a Felder AF16 dust extractor, as i knew it could handle the load required by my planer, and i could also connect a 80mm fitting for the blade guard.
Even if there are a few design issues with the various hammer machines, i've found that they they are accurate, when set up, parts are easy to get to reduce down time.
I am qualified cabinetmaker, and have used more pricey machines in commercial settings, but at these price levels, you get a damm good product.
I just need to get the ceramic guides for my N4400 and i'll be happy with it.
Hi Bryn, wow, (qualified cabinetmaker) respect Sir, I'm just a chippy with ideas of grandeur! 😁 I couldn't agree more re Felder. I also believe they're a damn good purchase. In all my years of wood butchery I've yet to find a perfect anything, but Felder get close, so close that I have another of their machines on the way. Vid shortly after, obviously. 👍😁
@@GTWoodshop we all have ideas of grandeur and we all butcher differently 😂 beauty is the eye of the beholder. As for felder, they do make a fine machine, I’ll never wear my current machines out as it’s just me using them. Decent machinery just makes life a lot easier, I remember mucking around wasting time aligning the cutter blades, I just love running timber through the spiral cutter. Looking forwards to your next review on the next mystery machine.
Hi. So what was the extractor?
Hi Maciej, sorry I forgot to mention it didn't I. I have an Jet JCDC2 Cyclone Extractor.
Planers have to fine tuned, that's normal ( as You have to with hand planers as well ) , some machines may fit spot on some not , this is not the Martin or Hoffmann league. Every standard machine has to fine tuned in front of working. The cheap ones often more. Get what You paid for, this is low end budget Item. You see the Ikea idea "customers do the main work ". But the experiences will be different it's a game of luck. I know brand new Altendorf Format Saws which make trouble. May be you have tune constantly. Good Luck
And 330 mil is equal to what exactly in inches?
13-1/4" approximately.
Sounds like Felder should consider hardened wear plates in those four areas. That would be a simple fix in manufacturing. More difficult to retro fit and realign the table.
Hi Farrier SS I couldn't agree more, must be some really soft steel!
@@GTWoodshop Thinking about it more. Try buying some tool steel, Air hardened, (easier) Maybe .125 thick and the same width as those shoulder areas. Drill through those plates you make into into the machine (carefully) and then tap the holes. Fixing your own wear plates to those problem areas. You could possibly temper the tool steel with a propane torch. Definitely with Oxy/acy. After that just lower the stop bolts by the thickness of your added steel plate. Be some more "niggling"of course but I think it would never happen again as long as you used good steel and they stayed in place .
@@farrierss1724 If it continues to be a problem area I will take consider that Farrier, thanks for the tip. 👌
@@GTWoodshop If the load on the heads of the dome nuts wasn't such a fine point it would make a big difference, I also understand why the dome top is used but a hardened plate inserted into the cast would be a good long term fix. Maybe there should be a big warning in the manual about the force or better the lack required to secure the top locks. Thanks for the candid review, I am sure there are many more users out in this world that have been through the same experience or at least now may have an idea of what they are also experiencing. I have always wanted one of these and this just gives more info for the consideration. Many thanks again
Hi Daryl, thank you.👍
Brilliant review. Thanks for making the video
HI Matt, thank you. 😀👍
30 day warranty? Knowing that I will not buy from them.
Thank you for this interesting video, I was considering buying this model, mmmm I’m now thinking should I look at other alternatives. Something to ponder on..
You're welcome. 👍
the bit about the beds has put me off it
Its definately not as perfect as I thought it was. 😒
Felder / hammer machinery is totally over priced. Try robland
Taking up extra space can't be that bad of you still kept the DeWalt 🤣 that's my kind of laziness
Hi MrBachomp, I know, all that bending down and winding is just too much. 😁😁
should of bought a Felder than with motor driven beds
What a top idea. 👍
Yes, you can go ahead and deposit him the difference of at least €4000 and I'm sure he'll be glad to accept your proposal 😂
Must say I'm kind off getting cold on buying one (a3-31). From an engineering point of view it's extremely bad design not to take into consideration that one material will get indentations. I'd almost claim it not fit for purpose. Having to modify it yourself with hardended steel or the like, which will most probably work, just isn't right at this price point.
Also - extremely dissapointing customer service. I expected this machine to be way better but I actually find many reviews now like yours.
I hope it still works for you - thanks for sharing.
Hi Claus, yes a little disappointing isn't it. I have an engineer visiting soon so I'll be posting an update there in after.
I bought an A1 31 four years ago. The locking mechanism does not utilize the plate format shown in the video, rather it has rectangular holes in a piece of hardened steel that accepts a steel insert attached to the handles that moves towards the table when tightened. Works fine for me, BTW, I also bought a Hammer k3 saw, had an issue or two upon delivery which required a service call. The Tech drove from Dallas to Houston within a few days of my call, took care of my problems and spent additional time tuning up the saw, fences etc. I couldn't have been more happy with the service. Both machines have been in my shop for four years, no issues whatsoever, cuts are clean crisp and dead on. I know the manual for the jointer planer was very clear about not using the tables to lift the machine off the pallets, perhaps that may have been an issue.
@@edstengel2495 Hi Ed, thanks for the info, very reassuring, nice to hear good things from another owner. I've been in contact with them and am getting things sorted, and then some. Don't want to say too much yet as there will be a follow up vid coming soon.
The calibration method used to get these tables coplanar is a joke and a big mistake imo. Using those four domed bolts with gigantic thread pitch (1.75mm/thread I think) is just utter rubbish. There’s so much slack in the threads when you loosen them to adjust tables that after you tediously get the tables as good as possible they’re then thrown out of whack a good deal when you tighten the nuts which takes up the slack. That looooong lever from those domed nuts to the ends of the tables means the slightest change at those nuts totally throws the tables out of whack.
I spent 3 full days trying to calibrate mine, literally almost 30hours (during my summer vacation last year). Only to give up. The outfeed table had a valley that measured 0.012” which is way too much for decent results especially at this price. So I gave up and “upgraded” to a felder ad741. The ad741 works really well though, so I now have a bitter sweet feeling towards felder.
The ad741 uses the same dome nuts though. So I pray I never need to adjust the tables. They are at least flatter, max 0.003” deviation from memory, so maybe calibrating will be easier?
Anyway, if you or anyone ever ends up with a hammer A3 they def put it through its paces and check it for calibration straight away and before you take delivery make felder agree to a refund if the machine isn’t calibrated properly.
None of these planers go tight up against the wall. Even if they do, eventually you'll have to get into the machine to grease the motor or change/tighten the belts. Fact of life sadly.
HI Philly, indeed, disappointing though. 😢
Mine has had significant use for 13 years with no loss of calibration.
I’ve never used the locking handle and have zero snipe, feed rollers need adjusting if you have snipe
Remember to lubricate the cast iron tables, I always used paste wax however I’ve now switched to Felder Silber Gleit
30 day warranty that's rubbish
Hi Robert, my thoughts exactly.
@Roberto Duranos Hi Roberto, you're welcome. 👍
I really do not get it. Why would you buy the machine if you did not like the idea of having to switch modes. Seems as if in your case you made a poor choice. As far as the guard sticking out the back that is clear in the literature. With the mobility kit you can move the fence forward and move the machine against the wall when not in use.
HI Paul, I was merely trying to point out the items that I felt people should know about if considering this machine. Regarding switching modes, I really do dislike having to do it but I could not afford a machine without mode switching and a spiral head, after much research and consideration I choose this one. You're dead right about being able to move the machine back against the wall. My apologies if my comments upset or annoyed you, that was not my intention.
@@GTWoodshop Not upset
or annoyed. Thank you for your response. Enjoy. At the time I bought my A3-31 12 inch I did not have room for the A3-41....you have a really great machine there. Enjoy.
@@paulbabcock9606 Hi Paul, thank you. 👍
I am in the same boat. I don't think you realize how much of a pain it is to switch back and forth between modes. If everything is planned out and everything works the first time, theoretically you can get away with 1 swap over per project. In my experience, I have to perform the swap over 4-5 times per project. It is a huge pain in the butt. So much so that I am considering selling mine and replacing it with separate units.
I have a A3 31 and a B3 winner saw spindle great bit of kit had no problem with them I found them far better than scm minimax cu300k
1) but what about 1 meter from the wall according to fire regulations, eh? gentlemen
2) eccentric handle, what did you expect to see there? and what is the inconvenience? 2 times to flip the handle 2 times a day? quibble
3) they answered their own question, there was no need to tighten the handles hard
Der Kundendienst von Felder / Hammer ist in Frankreich sehr schlecht. Ich warte schon seit 6 Monaten auf den Austausch des Wellenschutzes von meiner neuen A3-31. Es gleitet nur mit einer Kraft von ca.14 NM (12/13 kg)!!! Die Antriebsriemenscheibe des Motors wurde bei den ersten Gebrauch aus-geschraubt und Blockieren der Motor und die Maschine!!! Die Ecken des Hartmetalls der Spiral Welle brechen leicht ab beim kleinsten Ast auch im Weichholz.
Wow, that's sounds really quite poor, sounds like you've had a really disappointing experience. It really shouldn't be like that in this age of instant communications.
ineffective after-sales service in France!
Hi Didier, sorry to hear that. 😢
How dare you.
Sorry Kevin, tell me please what did I dare??
Quit complaining you have a 16" capacity.
True. 👍
Hello, i was looking at this model and the overhang at the back was one of the reasons why i ended up going with the Axminster version.
you said in your review the Axminster one the fence fits on the back, in theory you are correct but i took the fence hangers off the machine and fixed them to my workshop wall.
the one thing i did do was to put some protection (Draught excluder) on the hangers to stop the two metals clinking together.
Hi Karl, thats a top idea. 👍👍
Thanks - I'm never buying a Hammer! was thinking but no way now...