I have a TA07 and love it. Really want the 08. I don't race, just love to run it in the street, Don't hate Tamiya because of the bushings, though. They put those in the diffs to keep oil from leaking out through the ball bearings. It is a sealed diff and ball bearings don't seal well.
I recently did a video at some local races and got familiar with some chassis like this TA08 also I believe the M03 mini chassis I might be wrong on that one. It was neat interviewing all the racers , they were there to have fun like you guys.
Great video Mr. K, very detailed information on this awesome build. I think your buddy Phil should just get rubber sealed bearing throughout for this kit.
I can't believe I've been missing this channel awesome me and my son have always wanted to do the races you do where abouts ish you don't have to say exactly I'm probably to far away but be cool to be a spectator
@@AnythingButOnes thank you & glad you like the vids. I try to keep it vintage/retro style... not really into the modern day bashers.. While I am guilty of owning a Traxxas Maxx and got my son a Rustler... the passion is the old school retro stuff. Thanks again..
chassis looks great....put a btcc box volvo body on it..it needs a diffrent body... or maybe a cosworth rally shell if you dont want a roadcar...doing something diff is a good move
Hi Ari, This is a totally unrelated question to this video, but hoping you may be able to help. How long do you peroxide vintage wheels for to get that like new look? I have an original tamiya hornet I am about to restore and don’t want to over do it with the peroxide.
I do a day for each side. I fill a glass lasagne pyrex dish up with peroxide that I bought from my local pharmacy. put all the part in, cover with clear wrap and let it sit in direct sunlight. Next day, uncover flip all the parts and repeat. Then I rinse everything off and let the parts sit in a bucket of water for 24-48 hours. Then dry. This works well for the team associated RC10 vintage plastic. Not sure about other vintage brands. I've only done it with RC10's so I couldn't say how this process works on others. Good luck
On the bottom of the a arm is not a toe adjustment, that is caster my man.. it effects the toe in or out adjustment, but It is for a caster adjustment which is the tilt of the steering knucle( basically moving the connection to the knuckle further in front of the upper connections at the a arms). Always adjust this first then re-check the toe and adjust accordingly. Same on a real car.
It definitely looks like a fantastic chassis, and if I had the money I'd be tempted to get one. And if I had somewhere to race it too! Great video, look forward to seeing it up and running soon ;)
I've been eyeballing this model, I notice Amain does not list ANY parts in the specific model look-up for parts..malin a comeback this year but in the on road scene, which will be new to me for he most part as Ive only slightly dabbled in it....waaayyyyyy back when the AE TC3 first hit the market.
I'll tell you what's going on Ari the RC elf sent me a super hot shot with all the fixings and then he sent me a fighting buggy without all the fixens and I can't complain about that.
Hey Brad, I heard... Thats awesome.. and just like that you're right back in the game (hobby) .... You must be super happy as I know that I'm happy for you. Enjoy them.
Bushings are not a down grade...they are oil filled Bushings of very high quality and most of all durability...ball bearing may be lighter and run in faster but these will not have to be replaced for a very long time.
I think it would do very well. The TA07 looks good and is highly tunable, but the single belt just looks good on paper. With the TA08 duel belts, you can run one looser for less drag, The single belt 07 means if you you tighten the belt to the front to prevent skipping, then the back gets tighter also. 2 belts give you a little more adjustment. Plus you get the Tamiya lifespan. They may not be the hottest chassis each year but you can support one and get parts for several years longer than other companies. Try racing a 3 or 4 year old x-ray or cars like that. They redesign from the ground up every couple of years and parts are gone. For me that's perfect since I don't compete, I just build and drive and add a few trick parts every few months.
I thought it was more expensive than that my fighting buggy I was surprised was as little as it was even though it's not cheap it was $319.99 and my super hot shot retails for over 400.
Hey Brad, Congrats on the new RC's. I heard Christmas came early. Looking forward to seeing these on your channel. As for the $ of the kit, thats with no electronics, no body and no tires. Once you add all that, your looking at well over $400... But thats not my money, its Phils LOL....
I have a TA07 and love it. Really want the 08. I don't race, just love to run it in the street, Don't hate Tamiya because of the bushings, though. They put those in the diffs to keep oil from leaking out through the ball bearings. It is a sealed diff and ball bearings don't seal well.
Thanks for the info. I never thought of that. Makes sense.
I recently did a video at some local races and got familiar with some chassis like this TA08 also I believe the M03 mini chassis I might be wrong on that one. It was neat interviewing all the racers , they were there to have fun like you guys.
Excellent video presentation of the build! Love the new camber set ups on the ta08
Thanks for comment and support.
Great video Mr. K, very detailed information on this awesome build. I think your buddy Phil should just get rubber sealed bearing throughout for this kit.
Well if you ever come hang/race with us you can tell him yourself Francis! LOL. TTYS
just the base build looks great tbh gg
The brass bushings are to stop the diff leaking oil through the bearings ;-)
I can't believe I've been missing this channel awesome me and my son have always wanted to do the races you do where abouts ish you don't have to say exactly I'm probably to far away but be cool to be a spectator
Thanks for the comment, support and subscribing. I live in Long Island NY.
Loved this. Can’t wait to see the completed unit. I’ve just ordered this kit.
Here is the completed kit with body.
th-cam.com/video/IKfBw5x9e2M/w-d-xo.html
@@RCRetro thanks! Watched it too! Loving your tamiya coverage!
@@AnythingButOnes thank you & glad you like the vids. I try to keep it vintage/retro style... not really into the modern day bashers.. While I am guilty of owning a Traxxas Maxx and got my son a Rustler... the passion is the old school retro stuff. Thanks again..
chassis looks great....put a btcc box volvo body on it..it needs a diffrent body... or maybe a cosworth rally shell if you dont want a roadcar...doing something diff is a good move
Think Phil is going to put a super sports car body on it...
Great video...clear explanation!
Hi Ari,
This is a totally unrelated question to this video, but hoping you may be able to help. How long do you peroxide vintage wheels for to get that like new look? I have an original tamiya hornet I am about to restore and don’t want to over do it with the peroxide.
I do a day for each side. I fill a glass lasagne pyrex dish up with peroxide that I bought from my local pharmacy. put all the part in, cover with clear wrap and let it sit in direct sunlight. Next day, uncover flip all the parts and repeat. Then I rinse everything off and let the parts sit in a bucket of water for 24-48 hours. Then dry. This works well for the team associated RC10 vintage plastic. Not sure about other vintage brands. I've only done it with RC10's so I couldn't say how this process works on others. Good luck
@@RCRetro thanks for the info. Much appreciated 👌🏼
On the bottom of the a arm is not a toe adjustment, that is caster my man.. it effects the toe in or out adjustment, but It is for a caster adjustment which is the tilt of the steering knucle( basically moving the connection to the knuckle further in front of the upper connections at the a arms). Always adjust this first then re-check the toe and adjust accordingly. Same on a real car.
It definitely looks like a fantastic chassis, and if I had the money I'd be tempted to get one. And if I had somewhere to race it too! Great video, look forward to seeing it up and running soon ;)
Thanks for the comment and support. Hopefully in the next month or so Phil and I get this out...
Is it hard to mess up the diffs and put them in the wrong side? 🤔
Its possible, but you can tell by the thickness of oil when you turn them.. Who does something like that? Noobs...
I've been eyeballing this model, I notice Amain does not list ANY parts in the specific model look-up for parts..malin a comeback this year but in the on road scene, which will be new to me for he most part as Ive only slightly dabbled in it....waaayyyyyy back when the AE TC3 first hit the market.
I'll tell you what's going on Ari the RC elf sent me a super hot shot with all the fixings and then he sent me a fighting buggy without all the fixens and I can't complain about that.
Hey Brad, I heard... Thats awesome.. and just like that you're right back in the game (hobby) .... You must be super happy as I know that I'm happy for you. Enjoy them.
What is the difference between a TRF 420 and a TA-08 pro?
Bushings are not a down grade...they are oil filled Bushings of very high quality and most of all durability...ball bearing may be lighter and run in faster but these will not have to be replaced for a very long time.
does anyone race this particular chassis?
this is Phils and when we race on-road, I'm sure it will eventually make an appearance in one of the on-road race vids. Stay tuned.
I think it would do very well. The TA07 looks good and is highly tunable, but the single belt just looks good on paper. With the TA08 duel belts, you can run one looser for less drag, The single belt 07 means if you you tighten the belt to the front to prevent skipping, then the back gets tighter also. 2 belts give you a little more adjustment. Plus you get the Tamiya lifespan. They may not be the hottest chassis each year but you can support one and get parts for several years longer than other companies. Try racing a 3 or 4 year old x-ray or cars like that. They redesign from the ground up every couple of years and parts are gone. For me that's perfect since I don't compete, I just build and drive and add a few trick parts every few months.
I hope one of you guys will get a tc-01 too and a td-4.
I have the TD4 on order...
@@RCRetro RC elf also sent me six more kits and then he's sending me $250 I think for Verizon.
I thought it was more expensive than that my fighting buggy I was surprised was as little as it was even though it's not cheap it was $319.99 and my super hot shot retails for over 400.
Hey Brad, Congrats on the new RC's. I heard Christmas came early. Looking forward to seeing these on your channel. As for the $ of the kit, thats with no electronics, no body and no tires. Once you add all that, your looking at well over $400... But thats not my money, its Phils LOL....