Simple and inexpensive road bike conversion to fixed gear. TL:DR version, things you'll need 1) Complete and functional road bike with horizontal rear drop out slots. 2) Rear wheel (700c) with a track hub. 3) Fixed gear cog (3/32”) and lock ring. 4) Chain whip and lock ring spanner. 5) Cone wrenches to fit your rear hub. 6) Axle spacers (probably). 7) Single chainring bolt set. 8) Chainring bolt tool, 6 mm Allen hex key. 9) Chain tool. 10) Grease, anti-seize, rags, chain lube and such. 11) Metric tape measure and/or caliper. 12) Two hours max. - - - - Full version, explaining all above. Assumption is that you're starting with a complete and functional road bike with horizontal rear drop out slots. (Vertical rear drop out slots can be used WITH an eccentric rear hub or/and an eccentric bottom bracket assembly. Neither is inexpensive or simple, I've nothing more on this topic.) You'll need a rear wheel with a track hub. Track hubs include three options, single sided fixed, double sided fixed and flip flop fixed on one side, freewheel on the other though this last isn't really a true track hub. I prefer double sided fixed as the offset (and the resulting wheel dish) is the same on both sides. You'll need a track cog and lock nut plus a chain whip and lock nut spanner. Cogs can have either 1/8” teeth (traditional) or 3/32” wide teeth (same as derailleur systems.). If you choose 3/32” wide teeth, you can use the bike's current (and lighter) chain, saving money and weight. If buying a new chain, there are some incredibly light and relatively inexpensive 11 speed chains available. Since top, pro racers putting out incredible power in low gears on steep climbs don't break 3/32” chains, you should have no concerns over chain breakage on your street ridden fixie. Chains are, after all, relatively heavy components, AND they are rotating mass. Light chains are cheap acceleration and climbing improvers. Over Locknut Dimension (OLD) on track hubs is 120 mm. Rear dropout spacing on old 5 speed freewheel bikes is also 120 mm, no axle spacers will be needed. I've a 1971 Mercier 300 frame built like this. Rear dropout spacing on old 6 and 7 speed freewheel road bikes is 126 mm, you'll need to add a 3 mm axle spacer to each side of the axle underneath each outer lock nut. You'll need bike specific tools (cone wrenches that work on your hub) for this, you'll also use these tools to set wheel bearing preload. Rear dropout spacing on 8, 9 and 10 speed freehub road bikes is 130 mm. I'm uncertain what the transition to vertical dropouts happened, but I think it was at or about the same time as the introduction of 8 speeds and freehubs. Should you find an 8 speed or above freewheel or freehub bike, You'll need to add 5 mm of axle spacer(s) to each side of the axle underneath each outer lock nut. You'll need cone wrenches and above. Some 7 speed freewheel/freehub mountain bikes have 130 mm spacing. Track hubs typically have (silly) too long axles, there's often plenty of extra length to accommodate spacers. - - - You'll need a set of single chainring bolts and a chainring bolt tool, I know you've already got Allen hex keys. If your road bike has double chainrings, you can use either one you like or any other with the same BCD mounted on the inner position, the outer position is left empty. Measure from the center of the seat tube to the inner chainring teeth it should come out to or very close to the ideal chainline of 42.5 mm. If your road bike has triple chainrings, use the middle position. As above, measure from the center of the seat tube to the middle chain ring teeth, expecting 42.5 mm. On all the five pin double chainring cranks I've worked on, the right crank arm did not need to be removed to get to the inner chainring, they'll snake right around with just a little patience. No force required. I've one triple with a tiny little inner ring, I don't recall if I was able to snake that one or not. Some might dock you Fixie Points for using a double or triple crankset in this manner rather than SRAM Omniums or Sugino 75s, I'd award extra Fixie Points for bucking what's trendy.
- - - You selected the rear cog you bought to give you the gear you want when used with one of the chainrings you have. Didn't you?
- - -
Remove the derailleurs, cables and shift levers (if they're separate from the brake levers). Remove brakes as you like, but I strongly recommend using (at least) a good front brake. You have knees, you like having knees and you'd like to still have knees when you're old. SKIDDING IS WHAT BLOWS OUT FIXED GEAR RIDERS' KNEES. I've ridden fixed gear bikes, on and off, since 1969, almost exclusively since 2000, my knees are fine. Yeah, I'm a Codger, not a Hipster. I have ridden fixed with two brakes, having a rear brake was just too weird for me.
- - - If you're trying two cogs on one hub, I've been able to have a two tooth difference without making chain length changes on some bikes. Other bikes with short drop out slots won't accommodate this. Mount the wheel with the smaller cog on the drive side such that it's as far back as it can go while achieving proper chain tension, mark your chain length. Flip the wheel, larger cog to the drive side, see if the chain still fits according to your marks. If you can't get the chain to jive with your chosen cogs, choose cogs closer to each other or forget about flip flopping entirely, some frames just won't. Fit the chain for real now, that's why you bought the chain tool. Master links and quick links work just fine, or rivet the chain as continuous. - - - Odd stuff, really odd stuff. Some fine old road bikes came with 27” (630 mm ERD) wheels, way back these were more common than 700c (622 mm ERD). 700c wheels were to accommodate racers who typically raced on tubulars, 700c could be swapped in for training and off season riding without brake issues. These days, 27” tire selections are very slim. Yet your old road bike might have them. Keep the 27” front until you can upgrade, unless it's really old and has no safety bead. I've got one of those and cannot find a tire for it. At any rideable pressure, it blows right off. Tubes are interchangeable between 27” and 700c provided the widths are similar and the valves are the same. Presta valves are the way to go, their smaller hole makes for a stronger wheel. Adapters to sleeve down a rim hole from Schrader to Presta are available. Brake arm reach can become an issue with some brakes and some frames and forks when converting from 27” to 700c. I have one very, very expensive brake that I've been unsuccessful (so far) getting it to work satisfactorily on a 27” to 700c conversion, another brake at one third the price works impressively well with no fuss at all. Generally, converting 27” to 700c is straightforward and issue free. Generally.
I currently have anxiety issues and suffer from mild panic attacks. Riding my bike honestly feels so freeing and is usually my main way of calming down when I feel an attack coming. Genuinely happy to hear that you're no longer suffering from depression! Keep at it!
Nice to hear that you’re doing better with the depression after traveling. I usually deal with it as well but haven’t since getting super depressed at the end of 2013-start of 2014. It has sucked living near the fires, since I live in Vallejo I’ve been having to decide when to get out on my bike. Or if I should wait until another day. Didn’t know you were s drum guy which is cool. I need to get another set I broke mine since I play the heavier stuff lolz. I just got a new guitar last week even though I had gotten one in January but not as good. So I’m excited to see if I can get any better with my free time since I work from home.
Thanks for your videos, brother. I got myself a 2015 Fuji Feather off craigslist for $400 based off your recommendation and plan on slowly upgrading. Couldn't be happier with it. Has definitely improved my quarantine here in NYC.
quote of the day! ... (after i started traveling? i stopped taking my depression medication)... thats a winner right there ppl☺... i always say, when you change you circumstances, you'll change your outcome. get those miles Zack☺
I like bullhorns because they give you a similar hand position to hoods on drop bars without the hoods, which looks way cleaner IMO. MTB handlebars give you a ton of control though, & I really love the look of bolt on grips.
No more excuses! Still love your channel, Zach (even not beeing a "fixie" myself). Love to watch an authentic and honest man in front of the cammera. Big love and respect.
There is also the option to pay a bike shop to build up a conversion for you. That might get expensive, but apart from that it kinda seems like the best of both worlds to me
congrats on your mental health improvement! I don't ride fixed or single speed anymore (buying a gravel bike soon) but I still watch all your videos! ✌🏼
11:49 Japanese crank arms use a Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) taper design, so whether you have Sugino, Shimano, or old SunTour or SR or Takagi crank, only a JIS crank spindle will work 💡
NJS cranks are actually closer to an ISO taper despite being made by Japanese manufacturers. I haven't measured the exact NJS taper (and it may even just be ISO), but it's supposedly _slightly_ different from ISO.
Zach Gallardo Well shoot… I looked up some information and sure enough: “N.J.S. threading and sizing standards are generally the same as for Campagnolo track parts.” I’ll modify my earlier statement: if you’re building a SS/FG on a budget and get a Japanese crank from an old ten-speed, JIS taper is what you need 👍
Lol though I really enjoy your bike info , I enjoy more your life philosphy lessons. A minimalist lifestyle I do embrace....now I just need to get the bike to match.
Ok, as a rule of thumb for conversions: STAY AWAY FROM ANYTHING FRENCH On "younger" road frames you'll encounter 130mm rear dropout spacing, just like on more modern road bikes. On older frames the spacing is 125mm, this isn't really a concern, but if you want you can always just add some washers as spacers. You really have to check your chainline. On purpose built fixed frames you rarely have to check your chainline, it'll probably just fit.
Friends don't let friends buy old French bikes. I own two. Phil Wood & Velo-Orange?? are the only sources of French thread bottom brackets I know of. I've no idea where to find French seat posts.
@@psychoaiko666 Refurbishing original parts is an option long gone. My '74 Gitane Pista is as compliant as concrete, as forgiving as my ex-wife. I've broken one seat post, one handlebar, two cranksets, worn out the original bottom bracket, broken the Phil Wood BB I replaced it with. To Phil's credit, they replaced it no charge long after the purchase date and long after the receipt was gone. Currently, its leather Ideale saddle with flat aluminum rails is too sagged out to ride, it's so worn its model is unreadable. To replace this saddle requires another post, or, a cheap arsed Walmart bike style clamp and I'm not going there. This Gitane is now but a frame and fork with a straight steel, 25mm seat post and a useless flat rail seat clamp.
I contrast, I've converted a 126mm spaced rear triangle, 1982 Trek 614 with Reynolds 531 DB main tubes and Ishiwata stays and blades from 12 speeds to fixed. It's got all modern components, only the threaded to threadless stem converter annoys. This Trek rides like a dream, gravel roads are as easy as paved. It sprints and climbs well, well enough for the old man who rides it. Oh, the slots in the Trek drop outs are a tad short, short enough that if I want to change a rear cog by one tooth I've got to change the chain length. There are probably some gear combinations that just won't work. A quick flip of a flip flop isn't happening on this bike. I don't have enough info nor experience to state conclusively what's up with drop out slot length. I've a '71 Mercier 300, all 531 DB road bike that I bought new, its slots are about the same length as the Gitane Pista's rear opening track ends, flip flop is no problem on either of these bikes. What I'm getting at here is that I've no idea if dropout slot length is due to specific manufacturers' choices or trends from different eras or country or continent of manufacture. Having this info might just be helpful to a converter's selection(s) and choice(s). I do think longer is better while shorter is still OK. A plus for road bike, horizontal drop outs where the slots are typically angled up a bit towards the back is that the bike almost sets the chain tension for you. The weight of the bike forces the wheel up and back, center it and tighten the axle.
@@rondvivre3636 how the hell do you break a seatpost? That's probably the one part I never trashed (and I've managed to break a frame😝). Ok, so from what I gather it's a 25mm seatpost? Lucky, 25 is a findable width. Honestly from your description of the ride feel and vectoring in the general French insanity it's better to just commit this one to the grave. 😖 Yeah, I don't know what's up with the different dropout lengths and and angles either. I think it just comes down to what the designer(s) felt like, idk. 🤷♂️ I had a giant swift (size 53, awesome geometry) I converted. Removed all hooks and eyelets from the frame. Repainted it mat black and lime green. Flipped and chopped the bars. Fuckin beautiful (imo) and then some grandpa (I shit you not) stole it.
So glad to hear you are doing great on your health 👍🙌👏I wish I had the guts to just pack up and go. That said, I converted 2 road bikes to fixed/single gear when I started it was hard but worth it I learned a lot of mechanics about bikes and it was real fun, I never had to use spacers the beauty of steel you can change the spacing yourself in found a couple of videos here at TH-cam that helped, I then upgraded to the pure blood fixed gear frames and builds which is also fun of course you need to have the time to research and do the work.
The conversion can be a problem because the bottom bracket is lower than a frame made for fixed gear. You cant coast on turns and can get pedal scrape.
For sure, you can't ride them as aggressively. For a first bike or for cruising though, you can make conversions that ride pretty nicely for the money.
“Zen and the Art..”; It took me four tries over ten years or so before I finally forced myself to finish it. I was (figuratively) the mechanic with feeler gauges adjusting valve clearances that he so admired yet I could not see myself doing that job as he saw and interpreted. His son got to see the back of Dad's helmet all along the trip. He looked for Zen everywhere that it can never be found. Zen is the no-mindedness found in the ordinary and mundane. Fixed gear riding is a far more Zen thing than anything that Pirsig thought he found. Every pedal stroke made without conscious thought, that's Zen. I don't want to say that Pirsig was an idiot, but, Pirsig was an idiot. Pick up Stephen Coonts' (no, not Dean Koontz) “Cannibal Queen” where he accomplishes all that Pirsig tried and failed, done in an airplane. Coonts' son rode along in the student pilot's (front) seat, got dropped off with Mom after two weeks as Coonts flew on solo. Coonts just might have you looking for flying lessons and a plane with room to carry on a bike. Also look up John Steinbeck's “Travels With Charlie” and William Least Heat Moon's “Blue Highways”, both are on Amazon.
Good Reply RON, It Was My 3rd Time Before I Got From Cover2Cover, Reading “Zen and the Art..”. Pleased I've Read It Now But There Are Much Better Books.
@@pipk7747 “Zen and the Art..” is an iconic, cultural classic that's an almost obligatory read. Sadly, Pirsig missed his point entirely. He sought answers without knowing the questions.
Most def, some Tracklocross. I luv fixie single track in the mountains cuz riding the same ones over & over on the Ssp gets old. Cleaning the tecky downhills does require a front brake.
Now that you're back in the U.S. would you consider joining the Thursday night Alternate Cycling Network Livestream? They actually mentioned having you back in their first or second Livestream.
Hi zach i do have a converted fixie from a roadbike ithink. And ita more prone to pedal strike than a regular fixie. Is it just mine or it is the con of having it converted. Thanks
You said you're working out everyday,do you mean working out in a gym or cycling?Sometimes I find it hard to do both,especially when I don't have a lot of free time.
I built cheap fix gear bike from old Peugeot PX8. It costs me 50$. In Poland the cheapest fix bike costs about 300$. It's more fun to build unique bike than buy a new 😎💪
Good advice on conversion, great that you talk about your depression, everybody gets it. I bought a fixie and dumped facebook. I Watch more cycle videos instead!
I asked you about conversions a while back. I converted an 80s raleigh sun solo. had to throw out the old yellow walled tyres and wheels :( ,learnt along the way to replace brake cables and properly dismantled and clean ( omg there was so much to clean). I found it was cheaper to convert and restore than buying new at about 100€/120$, for that money i could have bought a second hand colourful production clone fixie. Instead i have a unique, vintage bike that looks the way i want it to, bar the yellow rim tyres. Keep being reasonably dangerous. Ever thought of making your own intro/outro music?
I need someone to yell at me! I found $40 Vuelta Track Pro wheels on bikesdirect ... and purchased them for my conversion. Let me have it!! I can take it!! Also, thanks Zach.
What is your opinion on FGFS bikes? I know it’s an extremely niche hobby, but it seems to be making a bit of comeback. Hell, W-BASE in Tokyo recently started carrying Master Bike Co. Also, what’s up with that frame geometry?
complete bike vs a conversion? Get a track/fixed gear frameset and build that. Conversions are, in my opinion, always a workaround. Getting a ready-made bike is, well, kinda boring (not bad by all means, but not as much fun). Getting a frameset, then searching for parts, hunting them down and finally mounting them all in place to get a proper, one off, built by yourself bike - is a great feeling.
Agreed. It's the best if people have the means, the knowledge, and the tools. Conversions and completes are great for people who are just starting out to see if they like fixed gear enough to invest more in it.
@@ZachGallardo but then, if they are starting out and get all the gear needed for converting an old bike to a fg, then they basically have to buy almost a complete set of gear again, as the standards probably won't fit - the BSA BB is quite universal, but then you have fork standards (1'', 1 1,8'', ahead, straight or tapered), also seatposts have a different diameter. I think it's more economically reasonable to borrow a bike from a friend, ride around a bit then just go for a fixed frame. I went from my friends bike, then a conversion, to a track frameset and the only thing I regret is getting the conversion. I have paid similar to what I would have paid for a fixed frameset+parts at the moment, so I just lost all this money...
Fixed hubs are available online with different axle lengths for 120mm, 126mm, 130mm, 140mm. I believe Surley offers these, some as complete wheels. Older frames come with horizontal dropouts which makes things much easier.
Zach I would love to see some boring suburb scenery in your next videos. Personally, I grew up riding around local neighborhoods with groups of friends. Also Question for next Q and A. Any plans on a group bike ride after the global pandemic subsides?
Hello, I’m supper into steel frames and I really like the idea of a simple fixed gear, but I live around a lot of hills, is riding up a hill way harder on fixed than a geared bike?
Yes it is, but that's part of the fun of riding fixed. If you like taking on challenges and seeing your progression as you get stronger as a rider, a fixed gear or single speed is for you. If you prefer to be efficient, a geared bike is for you. The important is to get a bike that suits you best, one that you'll be excited to ride. Here's my video on why people love riding fixed despite not making sense on the surface: th-cam.com/video/l1cxxqv6Nf0/w-d-xo.html
1. Get at least half-decent complete instead of bottom barrel crap, ride it and learn what you miss and want different 2. Build up your dream bike, from ground or convert 3. If dream bike is and rides like a dream bike, sell complete or keep it to have wheels under you when you find out dream bike isn't dream bike anymore and has to go
I to play music as a creative way to relax that isn't content related. It's important for me to have hobbies that aren't part of making videos to keep my sanity.
Bruh, it’s easy to talk about a golden opportunity when you can go back to your parents house lol. There’s business owners and sole traders struggling and losing years of hard work and like myself I can’t go back to my home country because that would involve losing EVERYTHING.
Simple and inexpensive road bike conversion to fixed gear.
TL:DR version, things you'll need
1) Complete and functional road bike with horizontal rear drop out slots.
2) Rear wheel (700c) with a track hub.
3) Fixed gear cog (3/32”) and lock ring.
4) Chain whip and lock ring spanner.
5) Cone wrenches to fit your rear hub.
6) Axle spacers (probably).
7) Single chainring bolt set.
8) Chainring bolt tool, 6 mm Allen hex key.
9) Chain tool.
10) Grease, anti-seize, rags, chain lube and such.
11) Metric tape measure and/or caliper.
12) Two hours max.
- - - -
Full version, explaining all above.
Assumption is that you're starting with a complete and functional road bike with horizontal rear drop out slots.
(Vertical rear drop out slots can be used WITH an eccentric rear hub or/and an eccentric bottom bracket assembly. Neither is inexpensive or simple, I've nothing more on this topic.)
You'll need a rear wheel with a track hub. Track hubs include three options, single sided fixed, double sided fixed and flip flop fixed on one side, freewheel on the other though this last isn't really a true track hub.
I prefer double sided fixed as the offset (and the resulting wheel dish) is the same on both sides.
You'll need a track cog and lock nut plus a chain whip and lock nut spanner. Cogs can have either 1/8” teeth (traditional) or 3/32” wide teeth (same as derailleur systems.). If you choose 3/32” wide teeth, you can use the bike's current (and lighter) chain, saving money and weight.
If buying a new chain, there are some incredibly light and relatively inexpensive 11 speed chains available. Since top, pro racers putting out incredible power in low gears on steep climbs don't break 3/32” chains, you should have no concerns over chain breakage on your street ridden fixie.
Chains are, after all, relatively heavy components, AND they are rotating mass. Light chains are cheap acceleration and climbing improvers.
Over Locknut Dimension (OLD) on track hubs is 120 mm.
Rear dropout spacing on old 5 speed freewheel bikes is also 120 mm, no axle spacers will be needed. I've a 1971 Mercier 300 frame built like this.
Rear dropout spacing on old 6 and 7 speed freewheel road bikes is 126 mm, you'll need to add a 3 mm axle spacer to each side of the axle underneath each outer lock nut. You'll need bike specific tools (cone wrenches that work on your hub) for this, you'll also use these tools to set wheel bearing preload.
Rear dropout spacing on 8, 9 and 10 speed freehub road bikes is 130 mm. I'm uncertain what the transition to vertical dropouts happened, but I think it was at or about the same time as the introduction of 8 speeds and freehubs.
Should you find an 8 speed or above freewheel or freehub bike, You'll need to add 5 mm of axle spacer(s) to each side of the axle underneath each outer lock nut. You'll need cone wrenches and above.
Some 7 speed freewheel/freehub mountain bikes have 130 mm spacing.
Track hubs typically have (silly) too long axles, there's often plenty of extra length to accommodate spacers.
- - -
You'll need a set of single chainring bolts and a chainring bolt tool, I know you've already got Allen hex keys.
If your road bike has double chainrings, you can use either one you like or any other with the same BCD mounted on the inner position, the outer position is left empty. Measure from the center of the seat tube to the inner chainring teeth it should come out to or very close to the ideal chainline of 42.5 mm.
If your road bike has triple chainrings, use the middle position. As above, measure from the center of the seat tube to the middle chain ring teeth, expecting 42.5 mm.
On all the five pin double chainring cranks I've worked on, the right crank arm did not need to be removed to get to the inner chainring, they'll snake right around with just a little patience. No force required. I've one triple with a tiny little inner ring, I don't recall if I was able to snake that one or not.
Some might dock you Fixie Points for using a double or triple crankset in this manner rather than SRAM Omniums or Sugino 75s, I'd award extra Fixie Points for bucking what's trendy.
- - -
You selected the rear cog you bought to give you the gear you want when used with one of the chainrings you have. Didn't you?
- - -
Remove the derailleurs, cables and shift levers (if they're separate from the brake levers).
Remove brakes as you like, but I strongly recommend using (at least) a good front brake. You have knees, you like having knees and you'd like to still have knees when you're old.
SKIDDING IS WHAT BLOWS OUT FIXED GEAR RIDERS' KNEES.
I've ridden fixed gear bikes, on and off, since 1969, almost exclusively since 2000, my knees are fine. Yeah, I'm a Codger, not a Hipster.
I have ridden fixed with two brakes, having a rear brake was just too weird for me.
- - -
If you're trying two cogs on one hub, I've been able to have a two tooth difference without making chain length changes on some bikes. Other bikes with short drop out slots won't accommodate this.
Mount the wheel with the smaller cog on the drive side such that it's as far back as it can go while achieving proper chain tension, mark your chain length.
Flip the wheel, larger cog to the drive side, see if the chain still fits according to your marks.
If you can't get the chain to jive with your chosen cogs, choose cogs closer to each other or forget about flip flopping entirely, some frames just won't.
Fit the chain for real now, that's why you bought the chain tool. Master links and quick links work just fine, or rivet the chain as continuous.
- - -
Odd stuff, really odd stuff.
Some fine old road bikes came with 27” (630 mm ERD) wheels, way back these were more common than 700c (622 mm ERD).
700c wheels were to accommodate racers who typically raced on tubulars, 700c could be swapped in for training and off season riding without brake issues.
These days, 27” tire selections are very slim. Yet your old road bike might have them. Keep the 27” front until you can upgrade, unless it's really old and has no safety bead. I've got one of those and cannot find a tire for it. At any rideable pressure, it blows right off.
Tubes are interchangeable between 27” and 700c provided the widths are similar and the valves are the same.
Presta valves are the way to go, their smaller hole makes for a stronger wheel. Adapters to sleeve down a rim hole from Schrader to Presta are available.
Brake arm reach can become an issue with some brakes and some frames and forks when converting from 27” to 700c. I have one very, very expensive brake that I've been unsuccessful (so far) getting it to work satisfactorily on a 27” to 700c conversion, another brake at one third the price works impressively well with no fuss at all.
Generally, converting 27” to 700c is straightforward and issue free. Generally.
I currently have anxiety issues and suffer from mild panic attacks. Riding my bike honestly feels so freeing and is usually my main way of calming down when I feel an attack coming. Genuinely happy to hear that you're no longer suffering from depression! Keep at it!
Nice to hear that you’re doing better with the depression after traveling.
I usually deal with it as well but haven’t since getting super depressed at the end of 2013-start of 2014. It has sucked living near the fires, since I live in Vallejo I’ve been having to decide when to get out on my bike. Or if I should wait until another day. Didn’t know you were s drum guy which is cool. I need to get another set I broke mine since I play the heavier stuff lolz. I just got a new guitar last week even though I had gotten one in January but not as good. So I’m excited to see if I can get any better with my free time since I work from home.
Zach flexin a jazzmaster and telecaster. Pretty sweet.
emo af
Good to see you fine brother! Cheers from Argentina.
Thanks for your videos, brother. I got myself a 2015 Fuji Feather off craigslist for $400 based off your recommendation and plan on slowly upgrading. Couldn't be happier with it. Has definitely improved my quarantine here in NYC.
Happy for your recovery from depression! always enjoy your vids and wishing peace. 👏👏🙌🙌🚲🚲
quote of the day! ... (after i started traveling? i stopped taking my depression medication)... thats a winner right there ppl☺... i always say, when you change you circumstances, you'll change your outcome.
get those miles Zack☺
That is really good news about how you managed your depression. Changing environments can do so much for an individual.
I like bullhorns because they give you a similar hand position to hoods on drop bars without the hoods, which looks way cleaner IMO. MTB handlebars give you a ton of control though, & I really love the look of bolt on grips.
No more excuses! Still love your channel, Zach (even not beeing a "fixie" myself). Love to watch an authentic and honest man in front of the cammera. Big love and respect.
There is also the option to pay a bike shop to build up a conversion for you. That might get expensive, but apart from that it kinda seems like the best of both worlds to me
Good to on your mental health.
Now you have more time, start looking at development on your bike parts development.
Im saving this video to share with a friend. You really made a fantastic point with the relationship between carefree life and depression! Thanks Zach
congrats on your mental health improvement! I don't ride fixed or single speed anymore (buying a gravel bike soon) but I still watch all your videos! ✌🏼
11:49 Japanese crank arms use a Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) taper design, so whether you have Sugino, Shimano, or old SunTour or SR or Takagi crank, only a JIS crank spindle will work 💡
NJS cranks are actually closer to an ISO taper despite being made by Japanese manufacturers. I haven't measured the exact NJS taper (and it may even just be ISO), but it's supposedly _slightly_ different from ISO.
Zach Gallardo Well shoot… I looked up some information and sure enough: “N.J.S. threading and sizing standards are generally the same as for Campagnolo track parts.”
I’ll modify my earlier statement: if you’re building a SS/FG on a budget and get a Japanese crank from an old ten-speed, JIS taper is what you need 👍
Glad to hear youve been feeling better man!
Lol though I really enjoy your bike info , I enjoy more your life philosphy lessons. A minimalist lifestyle I do embrace....now I just need to get the bike to match.
Hey Zach, depression is a very fickle thing. Glad to hear you're doing good!
Awesome as usual Zach! I greatly enjoy your channel! Peace and good vibes to you Sir!
Hi Zach! QQ ... maybe add to one of your future Q&As ... do you film all of your own shots? they are really good. Thanks!
Your Lookin' Really Well Zach, You Make Me Feel Good. Lookin' Forward To You Next Vid Already. Take Care & Stay Safe.
Ok, as a rule of thumb for conversions:
STAY AWAY FROM ANYTHING FRENCH
On "younger" road frames you'll encounter 130mm rear dropout spacing, just like on more modern road bikes. On older frames the spacing is 125mm, this isn't really a concern, but if you want you can always just add some washers as spacers.
You really have to check your chainline. On purpose built fixed frames you rarely have to check your chainline, it'll probably just fit.
Friends don't let friends buy old French bikes. I own two. Phil Wood & Velo-Orange?? are the only sources of French thread bottom brackets I know of. I've no idea where to find French seat posts.
Completely agree unless you like to go on a scavenger hunt online or know a great machinist.
@@rondvivre3636 simple, keep and refurbish all the original parts.
@@psychoaiko666 Refurbishing original parts is an option long gone.
My '74 Gitane Pista is as compliant as concrete, as forgiving as my ex-wife. I've broken one seat post, one handlebar, two cranksets, worn out the original bottom bracket, broken the Phil Wood BB I replaced it with. To Phil's credit, they replaced it no charge long after the purchase date and long after the receipt was gone.
Currently, its leather Ideale saddle with flat aluminum rails is too sagged out to ride, it's so worn its model is unreadable. To replace this saddle requires another post, or, a cheap arsed Walmart bike style clamp and I'm not going there.
This Gitane is now but a frame and fork with a straight steel, 25mm seat post and a useless flat rail seat clamp.
I contrast, I've converted a 126mm spaced rear triangle, 1982 Trek 614 with Reynolds 531 DB main tubes and Ishiwata stays and blades from 12 speeds to fixed.
It's got all modern components, only the threaded to threadless stem converter annoys.
This Trek rides like a dream, gravel roads are as easy as paved. It sprints and climbs well, well enough for the old man who rides it.
Oh, the slots in the Trek drop outs are a tad short, short enough that if I want to change a rear cog by one tooth I've got to change the chain length. There are probably some gear combinations that just won't work. A quick flip of a flip flop isn't happening on this bike.
I don't have enough info nor experience to state conclusively what's up with drop out slot length. I've a '71 Mercier 300, all 531 DB road bike that I bought new, its slots are about the same length as the Gitane Pista's rear opening track ends, flip flop is no problem on either of these bikes.
What I'm getting at here is that I've no idea if dropout slot length is due to specific manufacturers' choices or trends from different eras or country or continent of manufacture. Having this info might just be helpful to a converter's selection(s) and choice(s). I do think longer is better while shorter is still OK.
A plus for road bike, horizontal drop outs where the slots are typically angled up a bit towards the back is that the bike almost sets the chain tension for you. The weight of the bike forces the wheel up and back, center it and tighten the axle.
@@rondvivre3636 how the hell do you break a seatpost? That's probably the one part I never trashed (and I've managed to break a frame😝).
Ok, so from what I gather it's a 25mm seatpost? Lucky, 25 is a findable width.
Honestly from your description of the ride feel and vectoring in the general French insanity it's better to just commit this one to the grave. 😖
Yeah, I don't know what's up with the different dropout lengths and and angles either. I think it just comes down to what the designer(s) felt like, idk. 🤷♂️
I had a giant swift (size 53, awesome geometry) I converted. Removed all hooks and eyelets from the frame. Repainted it mat black and lime green. Flipped and chopped the bars.
Fuckin beautiful (imo) and then some grandpa (I shit you not) stole it.
That raleigh professional at the beginning... freaking nice
So glad to hear you are doing great on your health 👍🙌👏I wish I had the guts to just pack up and go.
That said, I converted 2 road bikes to fixed/single gear when I started it was hard but worth it I learned a lot of mechanics about bikes and it was real fun, I never had to use spacers the beauty of steel you can change the spacing yourself in found a couple of videos here at TH-cam that helped, I then upgraded to the pure blood fixed gear frames and builds which is also fun of course you need to have the time to research and do the work.
Yes more riding video please....
The conversion can be a problem because the bottom bracket is lower than a frame made for fixed gear. You cant coast on turns and can get pedal scrape.
Valid point. There are square-taper, short-arm BMX cranks available for folks who aren’t NJS-centric, so some gear ratio adjusting may be necessary.
For sure, you can't ride them as aggressively. For a first bike or for cruising though, you can make conversions that ride pretty nicely for the money.
Thanks Zach for sharing your life! Your honesty helps!
good Q&A thanks. Just got my reasonably dangerous shirt today :)
Maybe one reason you're feeling so fine is climbing Sacramento's hills!!
“Zen and the Art..”;
It took me four tries over ten years or so before I finally forced myself to finish it.
I was (figuratively) the mechanic with feeler gauges adjusting valve clearances that he so admired yet I could not see myself doing that job as he saw and interpreted.
His son got to see the back of Dad's helmet all along the trip.
He looked for Zen everywhere that it can never be found.
Zen is the no-mindedness found in the ordinary and mundane.
Fixed gear riding is a far more Zen thing than anything that Pirsig thought he found. Every pedal stroke made without conscious thought, that's Zen.
I don't want to say that Pirsig was an idiot, but, Pirsig was an idiot.
Pick up Stephen Coonts' (no, not Dean Koontz) “Cannibal Queen” where he accomplishes all that Pirsig tried and failed, done in an airplane. Coonts' son rode along in the student pilot's (front) seat, got dropped off with Mom after two weeks as Coonts flew on solo.
Coonts just might have you looking for flying lessons and a plane with room to carry on a bike.
Also look up John Steinbeck's “Travels With Charlie” and William Least Heat Moon's “Blue Highways”, both are on Amazon.
Good Reply RON, It Was My 3rd Time Before I Got From Cover2Cover, Reading “Zen and the Art..”. Pleased I've Read It Now But There Are Much Better Books.
@@pipk7747 “Zen and the Art..” is an iconic, cultural classic that's an almost obligatory read.
Sadly, Pirsig missed his point entirely. He sought answers without knowing the questions.
Yess tracklocross Vids please
I mean of u riding trails
Most def, some Tracklocross. I luv fixie single track in the mountains cuz riding the same ones over & over on the Ssp gets old. Cleaning the tecky downhills does require a front brake.
Nice video Zach! Finally came back to the USA
Now that you’re in the US I’d love to see you join your buds Mike, Russ and Eric at ACN!
Talking to them now. Would love to join them every now and then.
For your next Q&A video; would you ride your fixie on a Trainer or rollers if you couldn’t go due to weather or COVID-19?
Ave maldea, best custom steel bike maker. I really like his "modern style" steel bikes. It looks like vintage steel but with modern touches.
Now that you're back in the U.S. would you consider joining the Thursday night Alternate Cycling Network Livestream? They actually mentioned having you back in their first or second Livestream.
damn... handlebars at 1:50?
Hi zach i do have a converted fixie from a roadbike ithink. And ita more prone to pedal strike than a regular fixie. Is it just mine or it is the con of having it converted. Thanks
aye a new zach video
You said you're working out everyday,do you mean working out in a gym or cycling?Sometimes I find it hard to do both,especially when I don't have a lot of free time.
Thank you!
Thanks for answering my questions, senpai.
I built cheap fix gear bike from old Peugeot PX8. It costs me 50$.
In Poland the cheapest fix bike costs about 300$.
It's more fun to build unique bike than buy a new 😎💪
7:49 Party Pace woot
Good advice on conversion, great that you talk about your depression, everybody gets it. I bought a fixie and dumped facebook. I Watch more cycle videos instead!
Ayy Terry B shoutout!
Can i use my mtb frame 27.5 size to convert into fixie?
I asked you about conversions a while back. I converted an 80s raleigh sun solo. had to throw out the old yellow walled tyres and wheels :( ,learnt along the way to replace brake cables and properly dismantled and clean ( omg there was so much to clean). I found it was cheaper to convert and restore than buying new at about 100€/120$, for that money i could have bought a second hand colourful production clone fixie. Instead i have a unique, vintage bike that looks the way i want it to, bar the yellow rim tyres. Keep being reasonably dangerous. Ever thought of making your own intro/outro music?
I need someone to yell at me! I found $40 Vuelta Track Pro wheels on bikesdirect ... and purchased them for my conversion. Let me have it!! I can take it!!
Also, thanks Zach.
I watch all of the same channels. I'm surprised no Francis Cade tho.
Does your streetfighter-style ventilated mask from a couple years ago let you ride in bad asthma times?
What is your opinion on FGFS bikes? I know it’s an extremely niche hobby, but it seems to be making a bit of comeback. Hell, W-BASE in Tokyo recently started carrying Master Bike Co. Also, what’s up with that frame geometry?
complete bike vs a conversion? Get a track/fixed gear frameset and build that. Conversions are, in my opinion, always a workaround. Getting a ready-made bike is, well, kinda boring (not bad by all means, but not as much fun). Getting a frameset, then searching for parts, hunting them down and finally mounting them all in place to get a proper, one off, built by yourself bike - is a great feeling.
Agreed. It's the best if people have the means, the knowledge, and the tools. Conversions and completes are great for people who are just starting out to see if they like fixed gear enough to invest more in it.
@@ZachGallardo but then, if they are starting out and get all the gear needed for converting an old bike to a fg, then they basically have to buy almost a complete set of gear again, as the standards probably won't fit - the BSA BB is quite universal, but then you have fork standards (1'', 1 1,8'', ahead, straight or tapered), also seatposts have a different diameter. I think it's more economically reasonable to borrow a bike from a friend, ride around a bit then just go for a fixed frame. I went from my friends bike, then a conversion, to a track frameset and the only thing I regret is getting the conversion. I have paid similar to what I would have paid for a fixed frameset+parts at the moment, so I just lost all this money...
Fixed hubs are available online with different axle lengths for 120mm, 126mm, 130mm, 140mm. I believe Surley offers these, some as complete wheels. Older frames come with horizontal dropouts which makes things much easier.
What’s up Zack! California rocks, and if you come up to San Juan stop by Buy My Bikes. Would love to work on that wabi!
For sure. I can stop by when I finally ride from SF/Sac to San Diego. Hope that it's sooner rather than later 🤞
Zach I would love to see some boring suburb scenery in your next videos. Personally, I grew up riding around local neighborhoods with groups of friends. Also Question for next Q and A.
Any plans on a group bike ride after the global pandemic subsides?
Would definitely love to host regular rides once people can get together again.
Glad to know your depression has subsided. I’ve dealt with it too for most of my life. I enjoy your channel and all the bike talk.
spindatt motivated me to buy my own frame and build a bike, awesome dude!
nice that u recognize him :)
Hello, I’m supper into steel frames and I really like the idea of a simple fixed gear, but I live around a lot of hills, is riding up a hill way harder on fixed than a geared bike?
Yes it is, but that's part of the fun of riding fixed. If you like taking on challenges and seeing your progression as you get stronger as a rider, a fixed gear or single speed is for you. If you prefer to be efficient, a geared bike is for you. The important is to get a bike that suits you best, one that you'll be excited to ride. Here's my video on why people love riding fixed despite not making sense on the surface: th-cam.com/video/l1cxxqv6Nf0/w-d-xo.html
Hey you're back! Wanna join us on an ACN livestream?
I'd love to! Shoot me an email so we can get it organized: iam(at)zachgallardo.com
1. Get at least half-decent complete instead of bottom barrel crap, ride it and learn what you miss and want different
2. Build up your dream bike, from ground or convert
3. If dream bike is and rides like a dream bike, sell complete or keep it to have wheels under you when you find out dream bike isn't dream bike anymore and has to go
LOL
Hahaha
Welcome back to California aka zombie land. I'm glad that you're feeling better man. :)
ZACH do a cover one day maybe,tame impala-the less I know the better
Conversion is better, you have a bike that will switch if.you want, and it's going to be a more comfortable practical ride.
@8:12
waaay too much sillable seperation there bro, kinky
Are those American, Mexican or Japanese Fenders?
You should show us your guitar skills in a video sometimes!!!
Wanna see some more of your music side actually. from a fellow "Musician"
I to play music as a creative way to relax that isn't content related. It's important for me to have hobbies that aren't part of making videos to keep my sanity.
nice
Have you ever heard Math Rock?
Yup, I listen to some math/prog rock bands: Polyphia, Covet, Strawberry Girls, Animals as Leaders.
Hell yea! Off the meds, my man! ᕙ(⇀‸↼‶)ᕗ
Sorry I can't understand you without your glasses, 2 buttons unbuttoned button up shirt and tight pants
Bruh, it’s easy to talk about a golden opportunity when you can go back to your parents house lol.
There’s business owners and sole traders struggling and losing years of hard work and like myself I can’t go back to my home country because that would involve losing EVERYTHING.
So funny! 🏆🏆🏆
First comment :)
Yeet
Conversion are alright, but they just don’t feel authentic .
didn't adequately address the cons of conversions. this video was all over the place, and, overall pretty gay.